Citizens of the World: A Stoic Podcast for Curious Travelers - How to Move to Spain as a Language and Culture Assistant

Starting point is 00:00:00 Welcome to Live Without Borders, a travel and wellness show for expats, the expat curious, and globally minded citizens of the world. We are the travelers, the culturally curious, the experiences and not things kind of people. And we know that freedom is about more than getting on a plane. It's about becoming the most heroic versions of ourselves, which is why on this podcast you will hear insider travel secrets, inspiring expat stories, and advice on how to live abroad. but you will also hear episodes that will help give you the clarity, focus, and skills you need to create a life that will set your soul on fire. I am your host, Sarah Micatel, a certified clarity coach trained in the Enneagram, and I first moved abroad on my own at age 18, and I have been permanently enjoying life in Europe since 2010. If you are ready to make some big moves in your life

Starting point is 00:00:52 and want my help moving from someday to seize the day, visit live without borderspodcast.com. My guest today is a gal from New Orleans who has been living and working in Madrid for the last seven years. I am talking to Kefra White, a teacher and comedian who kind of fell into expat life after a series of unfortunate events. But today she is living her best life in Spain and she has no regrets. In today's episode, Kefra and I will talk about how you can live and work in Spain, if you are an American or a Canadian, via the North American Language and Culture Assistance Program. Kepra also shares some really fascinating insight on what lockdown has been, the COVID lockdown has been like in Spain.

Starting point is 00:01:40 So at the time of this recording, many countries still have strict measures in place to manage the global pandemic. And I just find it so interesting to hear about what life has been like over this last year for people in different parts of the world. Quick warning that there is some swearing in this episode, and I also start singing at some point because sometimes I burst out into song for no reason. All right, enjoy the episode. Welcome, Kepra. Thank you so much for joining me today. Thank you for having me. This is awesome.

Starting point is 00:02:15 So you are from New Orleans, but have lived in Madrid for several years. So how did you end up there? Long story short, I was working, I had a journalist. I had just, finished university and was working at a new station in like the most entry-level position possible, hoping for something else. And I was in an eight-month relationship. And within the same 24 hours, I had neither. Whoa. Yep. And someone at university had told me about what's called the Auxiliates de Confercesion program. It's for language assistance, basically paid TAs in Spanish schools because I couldn't afford to study abroad. And they mentioned that their friend did this thing, but they got paid for it. And I was like, oh, paid. I like paid. Tell me about paid. And paid end up

Starting point is 00:03:05 being this program. And so since I wasn't doing well at the job and suddenly did not have a relationship, I was just like, well, shit, nothing's stopping me now. Might as well apply. So how is this something that's still available to people? How would you apply for something like this? Yes, it is. You can actually Google language assistant Spain and the government program with the Ministry of Education, which is free to apply, by the way, usually comes right up at the top. There are also programs like the one that I'm currently in by Esquelas Casalicas, Catholic schools. It's called Beda, B-E-D-A, and it is for private Catholic schools. And you're also doing a postgraduate specialized certificate. at the same time at Guamillas, which is a local Catholic university. So you have to pay like 175 to more or less, sometimes I think it's 250 the first year. You have to have your transcripts. So you have to be a, you have to have graduated from university because you're also taking a course. But that's another way to be a language assistant. Okay, very cool. So this is how you ended up in Spain specifically. Just this opportunity came up and you're like, yeah, I'm going to jump on it. Yeah, basically. And you're still doing that kind of work? What's the visa situation? Are they supporting you for that? Okay, so yeah, they sponsor your visa. It is a student visa sponsored by the Ministry of Education or by the Bata program. And there are a couple of other ones that you do have to pay for. CIE is one. It is a student visa, which means you don't have the right to work or anything like that. But they also give you, hey, Americans, listen to this. Insurance. Very nice. Yes. You get that health care, y'all. So I think you've been there for like seven years. Is that right?

Starting point is 00:04:58 Yes, actually. It will be seven years in, what is today? Yeah, 10 days, 12 days. In 12 days, it will be seven years. It's my anniversary. Happy anniversary. So are you eligible for citizenship now? Is that something you're interested in? I'm very interested in that. Americans, excuse me, United Statesians, have to wait 10 years before you can begin the application for citizenship,

Starting point is 00:05:28 but I do plan on getting it. Right now, I do have residency. I do have residency, and the right to work, because my visa has changed. Once you've been here three or four years, you can actually change your student visa to a work visa

Starting point is 00:05:42 through a very complicated process. or you can get married or do what is called a Padeja de Hetcho, which is basically a civil union with your partner, EU partner, and that, at least if your partner is Spanish, that does give you the right to work and live here. So my ex-partner and I did a Padeja de Hedcho. Three, almost four years ago, we actually ended that in July. Well, I'm sorry to hear about your breakup, but I'm glad you can still live in Spain. I'm happy to be here and she is my best friend, so we cool. We talk all the time. Good. And your Spanish sounds great. So did you speak Spanish before you moved over there? Absolutely not. Short of the menu at Taco Bell. No,

Starting point is 00:06:27 I took Spanish in the States, and my grandfather is from Panama, but we never really learned Spanish from them. So my problem was I could understand a lot and I could read some, but I never really spoke because you're always afraid and shy to speak in another language. But when I got here, I was placed in, I wasn't in the center of Madrid. I was in the area north. And I've lived in neighborhoods where they just don't speak Spanish. I mean, English. They just, they don't speak English. They just don't. It's very local, very working class, and you have to figure it out. And my town where my school was, La Cabrera, is in the mountains and it's very small. And it's not even a bilingual school. You have to work with the people. And they were very awesome. They taught me

Starting point is 00:07:15 everything I know. That's the best way to learn is to get thrown in. Really, though, and I got thrown in. Because here's the thing, okay, here's the thing about the ministry program especially. You don't really get that much help. You, you know, you have to find your own housing. They help you with the paperwork, immigration paperwork, the first year. They help you get all of that together, but like literally everything is in Spanish, which of course, it's pain. But you have to do things on your own. You have to find a place to live. You have to get a phone set up. You have to get a bank account so you can get paid. They don't help you with that really. So when I showed up, I had to figure everything out. And you did it. You faced the challenge. You rose to the challenge. I rose to the challenge. I really had no point. I mean, I had no point. Well, I mean, I had no

Starting point is 00:08:09 choice, you know. I really, there was a part of me that just kept saying, did I give up my, my job, my family, my friends, my apartment, my cat, and literally cross an ocean to go back with my tail between my legs because I couldn't open a bank account. Right. No, so I had to do it. And I met some cool people that like helped me, especially with the apartment, who helped me read the websites and tell me what certain things meant. so I could find places. Yeah, I mean, I think that's the number one thing that's going to help you as an expat is to be open to meeting new people who could potentially help you out.

Starting point is 00:08:52 Like, I have a similar story of moving to Italy and choosing a place where there was not much English-spoken, because I did want to learn it, and I was, like, applying for citizenship. And, I mean, without my friends, that would have been a much harder road to hope. for sure. God, I bet. Whoa. So how long were you there? I got my citizenship pretty quick because of my Italian heritage. Oh, work right on. Yeah. And then I ended up staying for about almost a year because I loved it so much and now I live in England. I want to ask you so many questions, but I'm like, I'm supposed to be. I'll come on your podcast when you launch it. I know, you know what? I will take you up on that. All right. I would love. that. Well, what's keeping in you in Madrid for like seven years? And I know this year was a

Starting point is 00:09:48 particularly tough year because of COVID. What's that been like? Well, surreal, especially now, like it's December. It's almost January. And there's a part of me sitting here just like, did that really happen? Did I really sit here from March to the end of June? Unable to leave my house. like, you know, under threat of fine or arrest. It was really, it's so surreal that that actually happened. So it was March through June in Spain that severe lockdown? Wow. And yeah, they didn't mess their own, did they? They did not. They did not. I mean, they had the police if you went to the supermarket, because we could only go to the market, the pharmacy, the bank, and the doctor,

Starting point is 00:10:34 if they were open. And so the police, you had to have your receipt. when you went to buy something, because if you got stopped by the police, you had to prove that you were buying what you said you were buying, because some people would just take empty shopping bags and try to go for a walk. Yeah, I'm tired to blame them. I mean, I'm mad. And yeah, we had little things like that, but it was not that bad. I don't know. Yeah, yeah. It wasn't that good. But it really, It just was what you made it. And even walking out in the sun hits different when you haven't seen it for a couple of months. But I just, I don't know.

Starting point is 00:11:15 It was a very surreal time. But, you know, we just made it work. Lots of Zoom calls. Lots of drunken Zoom calls. Lots of balcony dance parties. My neighbors did a thing where we have an inner courtyard. So every morning, everyone would legit make their coffee and then go sit out on the terrace and just talk to each other. I love that. Yeah. We had dance parties. We had quarantine karaoke on the terrace. My song was, I want to break free. I thank you. We did the best that we could. We had a sign-up sheet for our elderly residents in the building where they could send us WhatsApp and texts if they needed anything from the store. So we could go get it for them. So it was really how I met my neighbors. The people I barely talked to in the hall or.

Starting point is 00:12:04 on the sims like, Ola, Ola, as lo, ago, bye, okay, girl. Yeah. And I made friends. And that really was such a huge help.

Starting point is 00:12:15 It really was. I think there are so many blessings that came out of the pandemic. Just like that, getting to know people more in like that very unique way, people thinking more deeply about what the purpose of their life is

Starting point is 00:12:30 and what direction they should be going in. And yeah, like I'm really a stoicism and what you said about like, well, what else can we do? Right? We have to make the most of it. Like, I love that attitude. We can either sit home and complain about the way things are or we can have a dance party on the balcony. Pretty much because like this was a thing that was happening. Whether you liked it or not, we could not leave our homes unless you really wanted to go to jail or get a $600 euro fine. We had no choice. So I, and I was honestly as a teacher. more worried about my students. I work in a secondary school. So my kids, my babies, the babies are 12, and my seniors are like 18, 19. And they suddenly, they told us two weeks. I knew it wasn't true, but these children literally went from, oh, okay, we're going to have two weeks of no school, you know, woo, yeah, to, oh, shit, I haven't seen my friends in three months. And we started having online classes and I would just check in and be like babies how you doing you okay talk to me tell me

Starting point is 00:13:40 how's it going how it is and um I would send them little videos of me wearing like oh god crowns and juggling or whatever and be like I miss you guys because their teacher is insane what was it like teaching online it's hard okay because we all have the attention span of a net when you have Zoom, but you also have Google, WhatsApp, Facebook, and YouTube open at the same time. And I know they ain't paying attention because they text in. I can hear the little ding, ding, ding on their phones. We're on to you. Yeah, I was just like, y'all know I can hear. I know what the WhatsApp. People actually like me and they send me messages too. So I recognize that sound. And I know you're on WhatsApp right now, but I tried to go easy on them because this is a tough time for them. It's a very hard time.

Starting point is 00:14:30 I enjoyed chillin, cold chilling in my pajamas every day. Right. The hardest thing for me was getting back in the classroom, especially with the new regulations and everything. But, I mean, it's just weird. But I also realize I love walking. It's really cool, and I highly recommend it if you can do it. And I like things like leaving my home without having to prove I live where I say I do.

Starting point is 00:14:56 The simple pleasures. Little things, girl, you never think about that. Yeah, so what's it like now? Honestly, if it weren't for the masks, it feels like everything is normal pretty much. Okay, great. It's little things we see. Like, when I go take the metro in the morning to school, if the metro is too full, they just turn off the turnstiles. And you have to wait in a socially distance line outside until they let you back in.

Starting point is 00:15:24 Every store has hand sanitizer. You have to have a mask to go inside or you will not, you can't go in. Which if you've been to public restrooms here, y'all know, I'm not lying. Don't get mad. But a lot of places did not have soap. Okay. Or anything, I've seen a lot of people not wash their hands when coming out of public bathrooms. Or they perpetrate, like they just sprinkle some water on it and leave. And so, yeah, that was hygiene in public restrooms or like thereof was a huge issue.

Starting point is 00:15:57 I have to say, I have not seen that since we came off of lockdown. Everyone's got soap and sanitizer on the way in, on the way out, and I'm seeing a lot more of that everywhere. I love it. You love to see it. Don't change a thing. What about the restaurants and museums are those back open? They are back open. Sometimes you have to have appointments to go, well, the restaurants especially, because now we are on a curfew. So from 11, sorry, it was 11 when it started, but now it's midnight to 6 a.m. We can't go out. The police are back on the streets and make sure your ass is at home.

Starting point is 00:16:40 I'm old, 41, but I mean, I'm just not out anyway, unless I'm getting paid. I like money. But I'm a teacher. I have to get up at 7. So I am not on the street from midnight to 6. So for me, it's pretty normal. Yep, that's too late for me as well. You know, like, but the restaurants now, and this is a big issue because restaurants, you know, dinner time in Spain is usually about 10 o'clock. That's that's din din, supper time. But now because of the regulations, restaurants cannot let anyone in after 10 and they have to be closed by 11. That's fascinating. Yeah. So you, a lot of people, you'll see folks packing the metro at 1130 trying to make that last train for curfew.

Starting point is 00:17:22 Mm-hmm. trying to get home. So a lot of businesses have closed, restaurants have closed, places that have been open for years are closing. And so you're starting to see the impact on it. Now, Deliveroo, which is our version of Uber Eats, during lockdown, Deliveroo, Uber Eats, just Eats, we're living their best life. Yeah. Because when you got a captive audience, and that's how a lot of restaurants stayed alive over lockdown. We couldn't leave the house.

Starting point is 00:17:50 We couldn't go. They couldn't open, but they could deliver. Yeah, that's fascinating to me. In Italy, they did not have delivery for the longest time, and even takeaway was considered like something really weird. But now they have delivery as well. So does the UK. Oh, work. Yeah. So I'm interested in how, like, I went to Spain years ago and stayed with a friend's family. So we were in like the heart of Spain. And as a vegetarian who looks to go to bed early, I struggled. Oh, honey. I mean, but yeah, tell me more about how the dinner habits have to change because of COVID. What time are they going out for dinner now? Well, now, you know, you have to go out to dinner for like eight or nine because they can't let anyone in after 10. So it's funny because I can actually send this to you.

Starting point is 00:18:42 There have been articles written about, can Spain change their eating times and how will this affect society? I'm like, y'all, I think that serious. we can still cook at home. We have kitchens. It's not that bad. But it is interesting because usually, yes, dinner time is at 10. But it doesn't seem like anything different or stranger. If anything, you might have, you have to fight harder for a reservation now.

Starting point is 00:19:08 Yeah. Because everyone's going to dinner early. But I don't really see that much of an impact yet. What were you like when you first moved to Spain? Was it, did you have any culture shock? Oh, God. Yes. I just realizing that you're, especially when you're a writer, editor, I do a lot of things with the written word. And I have been reading since, I learned how to read as a child when I was like five.

Starting point is 00:19:37 So growing up, being a really good writer and working with literature, I studied Shakespeare, yada. Coming to a place and realizing that you were literally illiterate is very humbling. extremely humbling. Missing, like, missing buses or being the late work because there's a Huelga or a strike going on. And you don't know because you can't read and you don't know what the, you don't know what that word is. It's very humbling, like going to the supermarket and trying to buy what, walking around, trying to buy ibuprofen because you don't know that you have to get that at the pharmacy. Or just trying to find a dead being sick and trying to find one goddamn can of soup. just one freaking can of soup.

Starting point is 00:20:23 And then realizing they don't do that here, because this is not the United States. And Campbell's Chicken and Stars is not a thing. Little things like that. And because especially in the United States, when we do learn Spanish, it's Latino Spanish. So it's little things you don't think about, like, you know, asking for Hugo and everyone looking at you like you're crazy

Starting point is 00:20:47 because in Spain it's sumo. Or, sorry, I should say, sumo. Okay. Realizing that you're not surrounded by people with speech impediments because the Spanish accent is different. And so a lot of the Zs are pronounced like, sees. Everything, there were little things. Dinner, dinner being at 10, going to restaurants and asking for just like, just, you know, something small.

Starting point is 00:21:12 And then saying, the kitchen is closed. No one's here. And you're like, it's 8.30. Thank you. What's too early? Portion sizes, big American portion sizes, the first time we got a meal. And they brought me the plate. And I was just like, oh, that's so cute.

Starting point is 00:21:28 They saved half in the back. So when I finished this, they would just bring the rest. It's so small. That's precious. Where's the rest of it? This costs $13. I realize, no, that is it, American. That's all you're getting.

Starting point is 00:21:41 Because we don't have those big, extra-sized portions, like back home. Yeah. So it's always little things, small things. The two to five, a lot of places, like some supermarkets, the government office, immigration, the butcher, the pharmacy, a lot of places close from two to five. Fiesta. Oh, girl, even, and everyone says no one in Madrid, you know, no one in Madrid takes yes. And no, you don't go home and sleep, but the pharmacy is still closing.

Starting point is 00:22:15 Right. The butcher, the market. they're still shut down for three hours. So if you didn't get it by one or two, guess you're going to have to wait till five. And that was especially coming from like such a capitalist country as the States, just standing around like, y'all don't want this money. Yeah, you don't. You don't want this money? And it's like, no, they don't. They don't care. Everything is shut down. Well, not everything, but most things, a lot of the city, the markets, things like that, are closed on Sunday. They just are. Yeah, it's the day.

Starting point is 00:22:46 people spend with their families. You see a lot of families, you know, have lunch, usually roast chicken or on sale around the place. So when you go on a day trip or something, my mother and her friend came here and we went to Segovia right outside. And they were like, everything is closed. And I was like, yeah, a lot of, most of the city is closed. Most of the town is closed. And my mom's friend was just like, they don't see all these tourists. They don't see the hordes of tourists walking around.

Starting point is 00:23:14 I'm like, they do. I'm sure they do. They don't realize how much money they can make. And it was just like they don't care. Your family's more important. And I actually think that's real fucking dope. Yeah, I do too. I love it.

Starting point is 00:23:27 And like you, I get the impression that, yeah, when you went over there, you probably thought like your mom's friend. And I know I felt like that in certain sense. I remember when I, like, worked in New York and we had people like in the European office and it felt like they were always like, you know, going on holiday. or, you know, not in the office again. And we would be like, oh, get your priorities straight. And then when I lived in Europe, I was like, oh, actually they have their priorities right here.

Starting point is 00:23:57 It's us who are like working crazy hours, you know, really for no reason. Yeah, for a little reward or effort. Yeah, if you get over here and you're like, oh, this is nice. Yeah. This is great. Quality of life. And there are little things you have to sacrifice, like here in Spain, especially in Madrid. In August, everyone usually goes out of leaves.

Starting point is 00:24:19 Everyone goes like the city, probably the country to be quite honest, goes on vacation. So everyone has summer hours, August. They have summer hours. They don't work as much in the summer. So even the bank is like, these are our summer hours. And in August, like, you'll see these businesses, restaurants, everything will have signs on vacation. Yeah, same in Italy. Like don't go on holiday in August in Italy unless you're going to the beach because everything will be closed. Like literally my mom came to visit me once and the tourist office had a sign saying see in September.

Starting point is 00:24:56 You're just like, well, I mean, enjoy if you can find anything open. If you can find anything. I'm like, you picked a good time to come. But your choice is unlimited as to what we can do while you were here. Because everything you're thinking about is probably closed. Indeed. I hope you enjoyed this conversation with Kefra. In the next episode, she will share some of her expat insider favorite things to eat and experience in Madrid, Spain. That's all for now. Go ahead and follow the show or hit subscribe so you can hear more episodes like this. And if you would like my help taking bold action on your own dreams, like living abroad, changing careers and other life transitions, visit Live Without Borderspodcast.com. Thanks for listening and have a beautiful week

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Citizens of the World: A Stoic Podcast for Curious Travelers - How to Move to Spain as a Language and Culture Assistant

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