Everything Everywhere Daily: History, Science, Geography & More - The History of Breakfast

Starting point is 00:00:00 Every day, billions of people around the world wake up and have breakfast. Breakfast is very different than the other meals you eat in a day. The types of food that people consume for breakfast are usually much more narrow than what they might be for lunch or dinner. Moreover, the way we eat breakfast and what we eat is very different from the types of meals that people ate in the past. Learn more about the history of breakfast on this episode of Everything Everywhere Daily. What if your perceptions about the past were wrong?

Starting point is 00:00:42 ThruLine is a podcast that takes you back in time to uncover the parts of the story that may have gone unnoticed. It effectively turned day into night. And how it shaped the world now. Time travel with us every week on the ThruLine podcast from NPR. Breakfast is a very funny thing. Most people have a very set group of foods that they think of when they think of breakfast. If you go out for dinner, you might go out for pizza or bar. or you might go out for Chinese, Indian, Italian, or Mexican.

Starting point is 00:01:20 However, you don't do that when you go out for breakfast. You just go to breakfast. Some restaurants specialize in breakfast, and it's just assumed that you roughly know what is always on the menu. You almost never go out for breakfast of a particular cuisine, such as Chinese or Italian breakfast. You just go out for breakfast. It would be very difficult to do a history of lunch or dinner because that's just the

Starting point is 00:01:45 history of food. But the history of breakfast is different. One of the interesting things about the history of breakfast is that a common thread runs through almost every culture. While the specific foods they eat might be different, the common thread is that breakfast has almost always been something that is required zero or very little cooking. And the reason for this is pretty straightforward. When you wake up, it might be dark out, and without artificial light, it would be difficult to prepare a large meal. Also, any cooking required starting a fire, which would take time and effort. So, if you wanted something to eat just after you woke up in the morning, you probably wouldn't have put much effort into it. Going back thousands of years to ancient

Starting point is 00:02:29 Egypt, a normal breakfast for common people would have included beer, bread, and onions. Meat or fish may have been included for the wealthy. So if anyone ever looks at you weird for having your morning onion, just tell them that you're having an ancient Egyptian breakfast. The ancient Greeks also ate a simple breakfast. A typical breakfast might include barley dipped in wine, accompanied by olives or figs. And they also ate a kind of porridge called maza made from barley flour. In Rome, breakfast, known as Eintaculum in Latin, was not universally consumed. It was often light consisting of bread with cheese or olives, fruits like dates or figs, or leftovers from the previous day's dinner. And sometimes they drank wine or water.

Starting point is 00:03:11 There are reports of people eating it as early as 4 a.m. and others which placed it around 10 a.m. The Romans did not consider it central to their dining. It was a way for workers and soldiers to start their day, not something for upper class people. As far as we can tell, the practices of the ancient cultures I just listed were very similar to those of other ancient cultures. During the Chin and early Han dynasties in ancient China, two meals per day were the norm, and if something was eaten in the morning, it probably would have been something very simple, like porridge. It wasn't until the Song Dynasty about a thousand years ago that three meals became the norm, and even then, the first meal was usually very simple.

Starting point is 00:03:53 In the Middle Ages in Europe, breakfast was actively shunned. Some religious communities thought that eating early was a sin because it was a form of gluttony. So they would simply fast until the big midday meal. Members of the nobility would just eat two meals a day because they would often have lengthy meals where they would conduct business at the table. During this time, eating in the morning was thought of as something for the weak, elderly, and poor, or for those engaged in hard labor. When people did eat breakfast, it would almost never include meat.

Starting point is 00:04:24 It was usually just bread, cheese, and ale. Here I should note the practice of breakfast in the Islamic world during Ramadan, which arose during this period. During the Islamic holy month of Ramadan, it's forbidden to eat during daylight hours. The meal that ends the fast is known as Iftar. Iftar is almost always the biggest meal the day during Ramadan, and it will often be eaten with friends and family. However, a meal is also eaten before the sun comes up known as Suhur. What is eaten during Suhur can vary from country to country, but it usually isn't as big of a meal as the Iftar.

Starting point is 00:04:58 It is just something to prepare you for the day of fasting ahead. The average Sahur will often be simple, and like many breakfasts, will not require much preparation. Attitudes towards breakfast in Europe began to change around the 15th century in the start of the Renaissance. Especially among the aristocracy, breakfast began to include more indulgent foods like meats, pies, and pastries for the wealthy. Queen Elizabeth I of England was reported to enjoy beef stew in the morning. Over in colonial America, breakfast was an important meal for settlers and farmers. A typical American colonial breakfast might include cornmeal porridge, served with butter and bacon or sausage. As food preservation improved, smoked, or salted meats were often eaten.

Starting point is 00:05:41 Regional differences began to emerge. In New England, baked beans and Johnny cakes, a type of cornmeal flatbread were common, while in the southern colonies, grits became a staple. The biggest changes in breakfast, and the focus for the rest of this episode, took place in the United States and the United Kingdom. One of the first major trends that encouraged breakfast was the adoption of tea. If you remember back to my episode on, tea, it exploded in popularity in Britain in the 18th century. When people enjoyed a morning

Starting point is 00:06:11 cup of tea, it wasn't a stretch to have something to eat with it. But perhaps the biggest thing that turned breakfast from a light snack into a full-blown meal was the industrial revolution. As more people began to work in factories, the midday meal could no longer be the biggest meal of the day because they were at work. They could only have something simple which usually didn't require cooking. Basically, what breakfast had traditionally been. You could, however, have a large meal at home before you went to work. Moreover, as stoves shifted from wood to coal as a heat source, cooking became easier and faster. Breakfast exploded in popularity during the 19th century. Wealthy people during the Victorian era often dedicated rooms of their homes for breakfast,

Starting point is 00:06:56 and many wealthy Victorians made breakfast into a highly elaborate affair. Pared down versions of these breakfast made their way into the working class. And this eventually became the basis of the full English breakfast or just the full breakfast. There's no set definition of what a full English breakfast is. However, it often consists of a fried egg, bacon, sausage, grilled tomatoes, mushrooms, bake beans with toast and hash browns. Supposedly, Field Marshal Bernard Montgomery had a full breakfast every morning during the North Africa campaign in World War II. And it became a known as the Full Monty. There's also a Scottish variant of the breakfast with scones, haggis, or black pudding,

Starting point is 00:07:39 aka blood sausage. Whenever I'm somewhere that has a full English breakfast, whether in Britain or somewhere that caters to British tourists, I always try to have at least one full breakfast. Despite the ingredients being very easy to prepare and not hard to find, you'll seldom see them available in the United States. In the United States in the 19th century, breakfast evolved into some of the United States. evolved into something slightly different. One of the foods that became a breakfast staple in the United States and Canada were

Starting point is 00:08:07 flapjacks, aka pancakes. These were not invented in North America. In fact, versions of pancakes have existed for centuries. However, there was something that was introduced in North America that changed pancakes. Maple syrup. Maple syrup was produced by native peoples who lived in eastern North America, in what today would be New England, Ontario, and Quebec. Today, almost all the maple syrup in the world is produced in the United States and Canada,

Starting point is 00:08:35 70% of which comes from the province of Quebec. Maple syrup and pancakes found a natural pairing. The lumberjack breakfast, which included pancakes with bacon and eggs, is believed to have been first served in a Vancouver hotel in the 1870s. Waffles were developed in France and Belgium. It's believed that they were brought to North America by Dutch settlers, or possibly the pilgrims themselves, who despite being English, came to North America from the Netherlands where they had been living.

Starting point is 00:09:05 Breakfast cereal is a rather recent innovation, and it has a very odd backstory. The origins of breakfast cereal began with the health reform movements in the United States, particularly the temperance movement. The focus was on easy to digest simple foods that were also seen as morally uplifting compared to the richer meat-heavy diets of the time. In 1863, Dr. James Caleb Jackson, a prominent health reformer, created the first manufactured breakfast cereal he called Granula at the Jackson Sanatorium in Dansville, New York. It was made from dense brand nuggets that needed soaking overnight to be palatable.

Starting point is 00:09:42 Dr. John Harvey Kellogg, a devout Seventh-day Adventist and superintendent of the Battle Creek Sanitarium in Michigan, created a similar product that he called granula, but due to a legal challenge, he had to change the name to granola. In 1894, Kellogg accidentally discovered flake cereal, when he left some cooking. wheat to sit out and found that it flaked when rolled. He and his brother applied this technique to corn, creating corn flakes, which they patented in 1896. It was sold as a breakfast alternative to meat, which Kellogg thought evoked lustful appetites. While breakfast cereal was new, it shared one thing in common with breakfast that had been consumed for centuries. It required no cooking. You might have heard the expression, breakfast is the most important meal the day.

Starting point is 00:10:30 This certainly was not the belief for most of human history. This phrase actually came from a marketing campaign by the Kellogg's Corporation in 1917. Breakfast cereals became a large market, with multiple companies all competing in the space. A major shift occurred after the Second World War, when cereal manufacturers began to make cereals with highly refined flour and added sugar and sugar frostings. Many cereals were marketed directly at children, often through Saturday morning cartoons. The pairing of bacon and eggs is also a rather modern invention. Although people consume both bacon and eggs for breakfast for centuries,

Starting point is 00:11:13 they were never really paired together as its own thing. The pairing of bacon and eggs as a classic American breakfast is largely credited to a 1920s advertising campaign by Edward Bernays, the so-called father of public relations and the nephew of Sigmund Freud. He worked with a bacon company to promote bacon and eggs as a nutritious, hearty breakfast. Throughout the 20th century, diners became known for serving breakfast, and eventually dedicated breakfast restaurants were established. In 1958, the International House of Pancakes was opened in California,

Starting point is 00:11:49 which later became a national chain, simply known as IHOP. In 1972, a McDonald franchisee in California by the name of Herb Peterson started selling a new breakfast product known as an Egg McMuffin. And this was the start of fast food restaurants offering breakfast, which eventually expanded into traditional breakfast foods such as pancake, sausages, and eggs. Innovation has not stopped in breakfast. There are new products being released all the time, with new foods such as avocado toast and breakfast burritos,

Starting point is 00:12:21 having found their way into the breakfast can. Manor. Breakfast has also become a huge business. The global breakfast industry was estimated to be $398.1 billion in 2020. And it's expected to almost double by the year 2030. Breakfast has come a long way. Thousands of years ago, breakfast wasn't even considered to be a full meal. It was at best a snack to start your day that didn't require any cooking. But today, it is a full-blown meal on an equal footing with lunch and dinner, and along the way it became a multi-billion dollar industry. The executive producer of Everything Everywhere Daily is Charles Daniel. The associate producers are Benji Long and Cameron Kiever. I want to give a big shout out to everyone who supports

Starting point is 00:13:11 the show over on Patreon, including the show's producers. Your support helps me put out a show every single day. And also, Patreon is currently the only place where Everything Everywhere daily merchandise is available to the top tier of supporters. If you'd like to talk to other listeners of the show and members of the completionist club, you can join the Everything Everywhere Daily Facebook group or Discord server. Links to everything are in the show notes.

Everything Everywhere Daily: History, Science, Geography & More - The History of Breakfast

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