Everything Everywhere Daily: History, Science, Geography & More - The History of the Hamburger

Episode Date: May 31, 2025

One of the most popular foods around the world is the hamburger. If most people think of American foods, it is probably the first thing that they might think of.  Hamburgers are pretty simple in terms of what they are composed of and how they are prepared, but they have developed an enormous amount of diversity.  But where did this popular food originally come from, and how did it manage to spread around the world?Learn more about the history of the hamburger and how it grew in popularity on this episode of Everything Everywhere Daily. Sponsors Newspapers.com Get 20% off your subscription to Newspapers.com Mint Mobile Cut your wireless bill to 15 bucks a month at mintmobile.com/eed Quince Go to quince.com/daily for 365-day returns, plus free shipping on your order! Stitch Fix Go to stitchfix.com/everywhere to have a stylist help you look your best Tourist Office of Spain Plan your next adventure at Spain.info  Stash Go to get.stash.com/EVERYTHING to see how you can receive $25 towards your first stock purchase and to view important disclosures. Subscribe to the podcast!  https://everything-everywhere.com/everything-everywhere-daily-podcast/ -------------------------------- Executive Producer: Charles Daniel Associate Producers: Austin Oetken & Cameron Kieffer   Become a supporter on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/everythingeverywhere Update your podcast app at newpodcastapps.com Discord Server: https://discord.gg/UkRUJFh Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/everythingeverywhere/ Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/everythingeverywheredaily Twitter: https://twitter.com/everywheretrip Website: https://everything-everywhere.com/  Disce aliquid novi cotidie Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

One of the most popular foods in the world is The Hamburger. If most people think of American foods, it's probably the first thing that comes to mind. Hamburgers are pretty simple in what they're composed of and how they're prepared, but they've developed an enormous amount of variation. But where did this popular food originally come from, and how did it manage to spread around the world? Learn more about the history of the hamburger and how it grew in popularity on this episode of Everything Everywhere Daily. What if your perceptions about the past were wrong? ThruLine is a podcast that takes you back in time to uncover the parts of the story that may have gone unnoticed.

It effectively turned day into night. And how it shaped the world now. Time travel with us every week on the ThruLine podcast from NPR. The hamburger is one of the most iconic and globally recognized foods in the world today. but its history is a tale of migration, innovation, and culinary evolution. The modern hamburger, defined as a ground beef patty served inside a sliced bread bun, is the result of centuries of cultural exchange and shifting food habits. Beef and bread have been around forever.

I've previously done episodes on bread and the aurochs, the ancient ancestor of modern cattle. And if you recall, both of these go way back before written history. While the base ingredients are simple and ancient, there's actually quite a bit more to it. A hamburger isn't just a beef sandwich, and here I'll refer you to my episode on the history of sandwiches. A hamburger specifically involves ground beef. The concept of consuming minced or ground meat dates back thousands of years. Before mechanical grinding, people had to tenderize tough cuts of meat by hand chopping or mincing it with knives. This labor-intensive process was typically reserved for creating dishes from scraps or making the most of less desirable cuts that couldn't be roasted or grilled successfully.

This technique also made it more digestible, especially for people with dental issues or for easier preservation. The Mongols under Gingas Khan are often credited with popularizing the practice of eating raw minced meat, a precursor to the development of steak tartar. Their horsemen would carry raw meat under their saddles to tenderize it and slightly cook it as they rode. That being said, what we think of as minced or ground beef wasn't really that popular until the 19th century. You could easily cube meat into chunks for a stew, but the fine level of cutting and grinding necessary to make what we would call ground beef usually wasn't worth the effort. The real transformation came during the Industrial Revolution when mechanical meat grinders were. invented. These hand-cranked devices revolutionized home cooking by making ground meat preparation fast and consistent. Suddenly, families could take advantage of cheaper cuts of meat, like chuck,

round, or plate meat, and transform them into something tender and flavorful. Grining meat accomplishes several things simultaneously. It breaks down tough muscle fibers that would otherwise require long, slow cooking. It distributes fat throughout the mixture more evenly, creating better flavor and moisture, and it also allows seasoning to penetrate more thoroughly than they could with whole cuts. There is also a downside to this. With a large cut of meat, you usually only have to worry about contamination and spoilage on the surface, and this is why you can cook a steak rare on the inside so long as the outside is cooked. With ground beef, the surface area expands exponentially, and the area where things like E. coli could grow is much, much larger. And this is why you have

have to cook ground beef more thoroughly than you do steak. And just as an aside, sausages, which also have been around for a very long time, were mostly made with meat scraps, not ground meat like it is today. The commercial meat industry quickly recognized ground beef's potential. By the late 1800s, butchers were grinding meat in shops, and this coincided perfectly with America's growing urban population, which needed convenient affordable protein sources. Ground beef required less skill to cook than roasts or steaks,

making it ideal for busy working families. However, the direct ancestor of the hamburger came from the city of Hamburg, Germany. Despite the name, Hamburg was not the location where the hamburger was invented. However, it was the place that developed the Hamburg steak. The Hamburg steak was a large beef patty that was served as a meal. Think of it more as a flat meat. loaf than a modern hamburger patty. It often contained onion, peppers, and other seasonings and vegetables, and it's very similar to what you might call a Salisbury steak. There's a similar

German dish that's still made in Germany today known as fricadilla, which is sort of a meat cookie. By the 18th century, Hamburg's steak had become sufficiently established that it was recognized as a distinct regional specialty. When Germans began emigrating to the United States in large numbers during the 19th century, they brought this culinary knowledge with them. However, they had to adapt their techniques to American ingredients, cooking methods, and cultural preferences. The 1844 edition of the Boston Cooking School cookbook references Hamburg Steak. By the mid-1800s, it appeared on American menus, often listed as Hamburg-style beef or hamburg steak. These were typically served without bread, sometimes with gravy and onions, and aimed at German-American clientele. The jump-firm

from the Hamburg steak to the hamburger isn't exactly clear, and there are many competing claims to the invention of the hamburger. What is clear is that the modern hamburger was developed in the United States, not in Hamburg, although Hamburg steak obviously played a role. The first claim is that Lewis Lassen, a Danish immigrant in New Haven, Connecticut, invented the hamburger. According to the Library of Congress, in 1900, Lasson served ground beef between two slices of bread at his small lunch wagon, Lewis's lunch, to accommodate a hurried customer. Claim number two is that Charlie Nagreen of Seymour, Wisconsin is said to a flattened of meatball and served it between two slices of bread at a county fair in 1885 to make it easier

to eat while walking. And this story places the origin of the hamburger less than 20 miles from where I'm recording this episode. The third claim holds that Frank and Charles Menches of Ohio allegedly sold a beef sandwich at the 1885 Erie County Fair in Hamburg, New York, and named the sandwich after the town. The third claim is that Oscar Weber Bilby of Tulsa, Oklahoma, reportedly served the first true hamburger on a yeast bun in 1891, setting it apart from the sandwich bread versions. And another claim, and the earliest documented mention, came from a Texas newspaper in 1894.

It said, quote, Hamburger steak sandwiches every day of the week at Barney's Saloon in Moulton, end quote. We don't know which of these claims is true, but the thing is, more than one of them, or maybe even all of them, might be true. Putting a small hamburg steak between bread isn't rocket science, and it would be one of many things which was invented independently in different places around the same time. The hamburger's popularity grew steadily in the early 20th century, By the 1920s, it had become a standard fair at fairs, diners, and lunch counters.

It was inexpensive, satisfying, and relatively easy to prepare. The hamburger bun deserves special attention, because it's actually a marvel of food engineering, and most people take it for granted. Early hamburgers were served between slices of regular bread, which created immediate problems. The bread would become soggy from meat juices, fall apart when handled, and didn't provide the right texture. The solution emerged gradually throughout the early 1900s. Bakers began creating specialized roles that were sturdy enough to hold fillings without disintegrating, yet soft enough to bite through easily.

The key innovations included using enriched dough with eggs and milk for tenderness, creating a slightly dome shape for better structural integrity, and developing the now standard practice of slicing horizontally rather than vertically. Major turning point came with the founding of White Castle, in 1921 in Wichita, Kansas. White Castle was the first fast food restaurant chain to standardize the hamburger, promoted as a clean, safe product, and emphasize efficiency in production. The restaurant sold small square sliders for five cents,

changing public perception of ground beef, which at the time had a questionable reputation. White Castle and sliders are still around today, and if you've never eaten at a White Castle, the best way I can describe a slider is using the old added, that quantity has a quality all its own. Cheese wasn't a part of the original hamburger concept, but its addition represents a fascinating example of American culinary innovation. The cheeseburger appears to have been invented in the 1920s or 1930s,

with multiple claims from different establishments. The choice of cheese was crucial. Early cheeseburgers used American cheese, which was actually perfect for this application, not because of its flavor, but because of its melting properties. American cheese is a processed cheese made from a blend of milk, milk fats, solids, and emulsifiers. American cheese melts at a lower temperature than most natural cheeses and creates the smooth, creamy texture that adheres well to the meat patty.

And this wasn't accidental. Processed cheese was developed specifically to have this consistent melting characteristic. ketchup and mustard weren't originally hamburger condiments, but were borrowed from other American food traditions. Ketchup's sweetness and acidity complemented the meat's savory richness, while mustard sharpness provided flavor punctuation. Manets entered hamburger culture later, often through regional variations. Its richness adds another layer of fat that some pallets crave, and it serves as an excellent moisture barrier when spread on the bun. The period after World War II was a perfect storm of social, economic, and technological changes that all converge to make hamburgers,

not just popular, but essential to how people lived their daily lives. One of the reasons for the explosion and popularity in hamburgers was McDonald's. McDonald's didn't just serve hamburgers. They reimagined the entire process of hamburger preparation using assembly line principles borrowed for manufacturing. Each worker had a specific task. Ingredients were pre-measureed and standardized, and the cooking process, and the cooking process was time to the second. This wasn't just efficiency for its own sake. It solved the fundamental problem of how to serve consistent affordable food to large numbers of people quickly. The story of McDonald's will be its own future episode. The franchise model that emerged from

this systemization was key to the hamburger's global expansion. Franchising meant a successful hamburger operation could be replicated anywhere with the same equipment, procedures, and even architectural design. This allowed rapid expansion across the United States first and then internationally, because investors could buy into a proven system rather than having to develop their own restaurant concepts. Soon, other chain hamburger restaurants exploded at both the regional and national levels, both in the United States and around the world. In the course of my travels, I've had many hamburgers in many countries and many states, and you can find different variations on hamburgers in different places. In Australia, you can find beetroot and

fried eggs on hamburgers. First time I ever had an egg on a burger was in Australia, and I really liked it. The beetroot, not so much. In Minneapolis, you can find some places that serve the Juicy Lucy, which are two patties with cheese between them that are crimped together. The cheese then melts inside, making it extremely hazardous to bite into when it's hot. My home state of Wisconsin is home to the Butter Burger, which is a burger with a big slab of butter on it. There are many other variants, including the Hula Burger, the Olive Burger, the Onion Burger, and a host of others that I'm probably not even aware of. In my travels, I've had some pretty awful hamburgers, which is surprising considering how

easy they are to make. But one of the best places is actually Japan. They have a burger chain there known as Moss Burger, which stands for Mountain Ocean Sun. They take their hamburgers really seriously and make a great burger. From its late 19th and early 20th century origins, hamburgers have become globally ubiquitous. I don't think there's a place I've ever visited, at least not in a major city, where I could not find a hamburger if I tried. And it all started with a minced meat steak from a busy port in Germany. The executive producer of Everything Everywhere Daily is Charles Daniel.

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