FACTORALY - E71 - SPECTACLES

Episode Date: January 16, 2025

This episode explores the history of eyeglasses, from their 13th-century Italian origins to the modern-day dominance of Luxottica. We detail the evolution of lens technology, examining both the science behind vision correction and the social impact of increased screen usage. It also highlights the cultural significance of spectacles through iconic wearers and quirky innovations, while discussing the business side of the industry and its potential monopolies. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Hello Bruce. Hi Simon. How are you today? I'm feeling absolutely superb thank you very much how are you? Marvellous um i'm not too bad a couple of aches and pains here and there but otherwise spiffing well when you get to your age you know i know yes yes the uh delicate age of which i am it all starts to go it all starts to go the body starts to go the ears start to grow hair and the eyesight goes of course the eyesight goes all sorts yeah yes what a wonderfully natural segue. Before we do that, shall we, just in case there's anyone here who's not meant to be here and doesn't know what this is, shall we introduce ourselves?

Yes, of course we should. So, hello, this is Factorally. I am Bruce Fielding. And I am Simon Wells. And we are voiceovers. We are indeed, which is why we sound like this. We do, that's right. Oh, we sound like this.

We can sound however we need to sound. We try and sound in different ways for different people and different clients. So if you're a client, hello. Hello, this is us. But we also are nerds. Yes, we are. And proud of it. Yes, are nerds. Yes, we are. And proud of it. Yes, proud nerds.

Our brains are stuffed full of things that we didn't really need to know. Yes. We are both that lovable rogue who stands in a pub and goes, actually, I think you'll find yada, yada, yada. I was with a group of friends this weekend who are car nerds. But the reason I love them is that you can be having a chat to them about a car. And they'll say, what color was that? And they'll say the actual color like that. Oh, that's California sage.

That's that's paint number. Right. OK. And that's why I love them is because they go into such detail and they know so much about a subject that. Yes. Right down to the paint codes. It wasn't just green. It was Pantone 4512.

No, no, they're a car paint colour codes. Oh, are they? Separate to the Pantone system. Nothing to do with them. Yeah. Oh. There you go. Throw away facts.

So each week we come along here, we pick a random random topic which may or may not be naturally interesting and we jolly well make it interesting for about half an hour yes exactly and today's subject is something that's that's close to our eyes yes it is although i think for sim and Waltham, for me, because I generally wear glasses for reading. Yes, I wear glasses for life. Yes. I used to wear glasses just for reading. I got my first pair of glasses when I was seven or eight, I think, quite a long time ago, just for reading. And then over the years, I found out that every time I took them off, I couldn't see so well. So I eventually upgraded to having glasses for walking around, driving, etc.

And then another pair for reading. Okay. Yeah, that makes sense. Yeah. But I mean, you know, we've called this episode Spectacles because we didn't want people to assume we were talking about drinking glasses. No, indeed. That is a little bit of a crossover, isn't it? We will be talking about glasses. When we say glasses, we mean spectacles. Yes. And when we say spectacles, we don't mean like sort of Roman arena type spectacles.

We mean glasses. Or do we? So let's jump right in there with a bit of etymology. Okay. Spectacles. The word spectacle is first written in Old French, and that comes from Latin, specere, meaning to look. Yeah. And that also gives rise to public spectacles.

The Latin word spectaculum means a public show or a public display. So you get to spectate. You get spectators, et cetera, et cetera. Making a spectacle of yourself. Exactly, yes. A display or a show. So that's how we get those.

The word glasses, originally a glass. You had a looking glass, which was a show. So that's how we get those. The word glasses, originally a glass, you had a looking glass, which was a mirror. You had a spyglass, which was a telescope. And then you had eventually an eyeglass, which was what we know today. So these things upon our faces are technically called eyeglasses, but no one bothers using the eye bit. The French are accredited with industrialising the manufacture of glasses. I mean, the French glasses in the Moraes region of France in 1796, they started manufacturing glasses. And by 1900, that area of France was producing producing 12 million pieces a year oh my goodness and it's actually still considered the birthplace of modern eyewear

really and they have like very famous brands and and actually if you if some glasses are made in france they are stamped with made in france as deliberately oh so, really? So, yeah, the French. Well, I'll go one up on the French and say that the Italians were making eyeglasses in the 13th century. Oh, OK. So the idea has been around for ages. Our good old friend... Is it the Egyptians?

No, no, no, no, no. Our good old friend Pliny, take it with a pinch of salt, the elder, mentioned the Emperor Nero holding up an emerald to his eye and looking through it to correct his vision the romans it's either the egyptians or the romans exactly yeah he said he claims that um the greeks and the romans were using some form of corrective lens that doesn't mean they were walking around with glasses but uh that's that's that but um there was a an arabian scholar mathematician astronomer called ibn sal

around uh 970 980 ad yeah who first sort of suggested that you could actually take a lens and smooth it out and put it in a frame and stick it on your face um didn't really do anything with the idea but then like i say italy came along in in the 13th century apparently venice became a real hub of of eyeglasses manufacturer in in the 13 1400s because they produced really good quality glass famous for glass exactly yeah um and by the 14th century they were a relatively common site in italy so a couple of hundred years before the french industrialized the whole process and in holland as well apparently that there's a pair in a museum in Bergen-Obsum from the 14th century as well. And another pair from Japan. I mean, what's quite interesting is

that there wouldn't have been too much sort of traveling between sort of Italy and Japan and Holland. And yet there's a pair of glasses from the 15th century in Kyoto. Oh, really? Yeah. They belong to the eighth shogun, made of carved white ivory. Huh. The first specialist glasses shop, akin to what we would call an optician's these days,

was in strasbourg and it opened in 1466 so they've been around for a while in one way or another the earliest glasses were sort of handheld uh you would you know carry them in your pocket lunettes lunettes indeed um sometimes with a little stick on them, kind of like opera glasses. Sometimes they had a pivot in the middle of the frame that you could adjust and it would pinch onto the bridge of your nose. Yes. Like pince-nez? Pince-nez.

Pince-nez. Thank you for correcting my pronunciation there, which I think literally translates as pinch nose. Correct. So they were all kind of like that and then obviously you know changed over the over the years and eventually got arms and eventually became what we know today yes so glasses are quite clever things um i don't know who the first person was to ever look through a funny-shaped piece of glass and go,

oh, I can see better. I think it probably was a mistake rather than a deliberate invention. But the idea that you can have this piece of convex or concave glass, which they essentially bend light as the light comes towards your eye. They're corrective. They're corrective, exactly, yes. So there are some fascinating sounding conditions. I didn't know this, but nearsightedness is called myopia.

Yes. Farsightedness is called hypermetropia. And just generally bad eyesight because of age and things is called presbyopia. Ah, and then there's things like astigmatism. Yes, all those sorts of things. Yes. But yeah, these funny-shaped bits of glass or plastic these days in front of your eyes, as the light comes towards your eye, they hit this curved piece of glass.

The light bends slightly so that it enters your eye at a slightly different focal length. And it makes things focus that were otherwise blurry. I came across something called, I didn't know this existed, but there is such a thing as optomechanical glasses. And this is a pair of glasses which has a little sliding lever on the bridge of the nose yeah and they're essentially each each lens has two lenses if you think about sort of when you go to the opticians and they they put that funny mask over your face with a couple of lenses and they flip them back and forth better with number one or number two number one number two you can actually buy glasses that do that they have two sets of lenses and you slide the lever

okay to adjust which means that you can they i suppose they're kind of like bifocals you have them in one setting for everyday use and then you can slide the slider and it adjusts it to close-up use invented by benjamin franklin apparently is that right i knew benjamin franklin had something to do with glasses i couldn't remember what bifocals is that right good for him. That and kites and lightning. Yes. Not necessarily things that you would automatically put together.

No. There are also double frame or flip glasses, which do very much the same thing. They put a second pair of glasses over the previous pair of glasses, and one set could be tinted so that you sort of automatically make your own sunglasses to go over your prescription lenses i seem to remember watching a program like tomorrow's world some many many many years ago which featured glasses for third world countries oh yes where you i think you filled the lens there's like sort of they were soft lenses yeah and you filled them with water to increase or decrease the angle of focus. And you could then make your own glasses to your own prescription just by increasing or reducing the amount of water within the lens. That's rather clever.

Isn't it? And then you only have to produce one set of glasses, which everybody can use. That's fantastic. And you don't need an optician. What a good idea. Huh. What I found fascinating in my research for this

is that a lot more of us need glasses now than ever have. Oh, right. And there are two reasons for this. One is because we live indoors more. Right. And when you live outdoors or you work outdoors or where you're spending more of your time outdoors, seeing things in focus isn't as important. Oh.

So that, you know, if you're a farmer, seeing things in focus is not that important. Right. Because generally because we live in houses or work in offices, our focal length is considerably less than it would be if we were working outside. So gradually over time, we've needed to be able to focus more at shorter distances. Yes. Okay. Yeah. I suppose as more and more of the population learnt to read and, you know, these days looking at computer screens or phone screens or whatever, a lot of our life is a lot more close up. Yes. Well, for example, you mentioned reading. In fact, about sort of 15th century, 16th century, when books started to appear, people needed to be able to focus on a book yes that's a good

point i wonder yeah i wonder if there was sort of the first person who said this reading malarkey i don't understand it i can't actually see what's written on the paper yes unless somebody else holds it for me some distance away yes yeah um so so yeah so that's one reason why um eyesight's getting worse interesting the other one is i think probably true, which is about 21st century living. Yeah. And the way that we use screens and the color spectrum in LED lighting. Yeah. What's quite interesting is that scientists used to think that your eyesight was determined

purely by your genes. But about 10 years ago, it became clear that the way children were growing up was harming their eyesight. Oh, I see. So, for example, in Asia, myopia has always been fairly common, but the rate of increase has rocketed since the 50s. So in the 50s, between 10 and 20% of Chinese people were short sighted. Now, among teenagers and young adults, the proportion is more like 90%. No.

And 95% of 19 year old men are myopic. Wow. So that has to be something changed. Yes, absolutely. Since the 50s. And it's likely to be be screens it's likely to be either tv or mobile devices or computers yeah and and because people have to like spend a lot of time focused at a specific focal length yeah they get myopia so all that time my mum told me as a child don't sit too close to the tv it'll ruin your eyes yes she was right yes huh i mean

it's crazy that in nigeria about half the population is now thought to need corrective eyewear really that's a lot isn't it it's an awful lot you go to the optician and you buy your spectacles. And you have a large choice of various different spectacles to buy. And a large choice of opticians. Yes. Except you don't. Okay. Have you heard of a thing called Luxottica?

No, I haven't. Tell me about that. So Luxottica is an Italian, as you might imagine, it's an Italian company. And they make eyewear. Right. They are, in fact, the world's largest eyewear company. Right. They have headquarters in Milan.

They were founded in 1961. And they are now part of a large group called Essit L'Or L'Exotica. Right. They make a few brands of eyewear. For example, some of the stylish ones like Alan Mickley, Oakley, Oliver Peoples,

Persol, Ray-Ban. Crikey. They also make a lot of the designer stuff like Giorgio Armani, Bulgari, Burberry,

Chanel, Coach, Dr. Gabbana, Armani, Ralph Lauren, Prada. Flippin' Egg. All of those

were all made by Luxottica. Oh, and Swarovski, Tiffany, Versace, Valentino. Oh, Ferrari. And so they make an awful lot of brands of glasses. Yeah. And you'd be amazed at how this company operates. Right. Because obviously you can choose

which shop you go and buy these glasses that Luxottica make. Yes, of course. Except that they have 9,100 retail locations all over the world, like America, Canada, India, New Zealand, here. You've heard of Sunglass Hut? I have.

Lens Crafters, Target Optical, Vision Express, Oliver Peoples, John Lewis, David Clulow. They're all owned by Luxottica. Wow. All of these places. It's likely that wherever you buy your glasses is owned by the company that's making the glasses. And they are huge.

They're the largest optical retailer in the States. They are vast. They are so powerful that Oakley were complaining that Luxottica's outlets like Sunglass Hut were selling Oakley at too high a price. And so all they did, Luxottica just said, okay, we're not going to sell your glasses then. Oh. And because they dropped Oakley from their stores, the stock price of Oakley like plummeted.

Yeah. And Loxotico just bought them. Oh my goodness. In 2007. Wow. I mean, they did, they did, you know, they did pay a reasonable amount for them they paid 2.1 billion dollars for them okay well you know i'm sure they've been happy with that but even so that was a lot less than they were worth like a little while before before yes luxottica decided not to sell their glasses yes so we're not necessarily saying that a ridiculous amount of deliberate price hiking or market monopoly is occurring here but it is interesting that all of those companies are owned by the same company yes yes do they also happen to own every single optician that you ever go to who says i think you need glasses well opticians are shops ophthalmologists are the guys who actually check your eyes. Ah, yes. So if you go to the opticians, you're actually not going to see a scientist.

You're going to see a retailer. A salesman. Yes. Interesting. This episode of Factorily was not sponsored by Specsavers. Or indeed any other retailer owned by Luxottica. Although having saying owned by Luxottica, I own some Pursals and I own some Ray-Bans.

I thought you were going to say I own shares in Luxottica. No. Persol's actually quite an interesting company. See, I hear Persol and I just think of washing detergent. Well, unless you're Italian, of course, in which case you see Peril Sol. Oh, well, that's different. Yes. So it was started in 1917 in Turin by a guy called Giuseppe Ratti.

He was a photographer. Oh. And he owned an optical shop. And he wasn't entirely happy with being a photographer. And he wanted to revolutionize and innovate in the world of eyewear. Oh, right. So he made this thing called the Protector, which was originally designed for aviators and high-speed sports. Yeah.

But they're really comfy and they protected your eyes quite well. And so they were used by the army in Italy in 1930. Okay. And then he decided to go properly into sunglasses and launch the label Persol, which is Pedersole for the sun. Oh, I see. Okay, that just makes sense. Yeah, so the first ones he made were for tram drivers in Turin. Oh, okay. Because they help protect their eyes from the dust on the road.

Yes. And then they came out with things like flexible arms and springs to protect your temples and things like that. Yeah, okay. And then it all changed for Persol, thanks to a guy called Marcello Masraiani. Right. Who wore a design called the Persol 649.

And he was in a film called Divorce Italian Style, which is quite well known at that time. And then that kind of started this big love story between Purcell and Hollywood. Oh, I see. And they've been worn by so many other people. In 1968, Steve McQueen wore a pair of Purcell 714s in the Thomas Crown Affair, which was huge. Yeah. And, you know, he was like the king of cool wearing Purcell sunglasses, really cool.

And Greta Garbo, Tom Cruise, Daniel Craig, George Clooney, so many people. I mean, George Clooney wore a pair of Purcell 2157s in Ocean's 13. Oh, right. They're just amazing Hollywood sunglasses. Yeah. This is usually the point where I hold my breath

for a second and wait for you to say, and of course I've got a pair. And of course I've got two pairs of Persol. There we go. I'm slightly surprised at how old sunglasses are i i always view them very much in that sort of era that you've that you've mentioned very much 20th century inventions but apparently china were wearing sunglasses in the 12th century wow 12th century so So before glasses, glasses, before spectacles, some people in China were inserting thin,

flat pieces of smoky quartz into a frame and holding them up against their eyes to shield them from the sun. Wow. And I remember, I don't know what the movie was, but I remember watching a Western movie that had a Chinese fellow in it wearing sunglasses and i thought that's historically inaccurate isn't it but no apparently it's not obviously somebody

done their research and go on yes tell you what we could do to throw everybody off the scent now this is nothing to do with glasses but this is a this there's a phrase i recently heard called the tiffany problem or the tiffany effect and this describes exactly this it's um it's about thinking that something is historically inaccurate when it's not and it's all about the fact that the name tiffany sounds like a modern name yes and if you ever saw the name tiffany in a a period movie or a novel or something like that yeah you think oh well that's not in keeping with the time but the name tiffany goes all the way back to the 13th century. As a jeweler?

No, just as a person's name. Just as a woman's name. Right. So it's perfectly okay to have this name dropped in period paces. But because it feels odd, they've named it the Tiffany problem. How interesting. Because actually, Tiffany do make sunglasses. Oh, perfect.

So Tiffany & Co have actually designed sunglasses for Pharrell Williams in 2022. Okay. So they ran into problems because they were saying, oh, this is a brand new pair of sunglasses, especially designed for Pharrell. And then jewellery editors looked at these sunglasses and said, actually, they look remarkably like a pair of 17th century Indian sunglasses sold by Sotheby's in 2021. And both Tiffany and Pharrell refused to comment. Excellent. I think I'd be slightly more proud of wearing an antique pair of Indian glasses than I would have wearing a pair of modern Tiffany ones.

Yes, absolutely. The nice thing about the Purcells is they're polarised. Oh, OK. And polarised lenses, I haven't done any research on at all. No. But I know that when you look into water with polarised sunglasses on, you can see much deeper into the water. You can see the fish.

Yes, it cancels out the glare and the contrast between light and dark from the sun into the water you can see the fish yes it it um it cancels out the glare and the contrast between light and dark from the sun hitting the water um the only brief bit of research i did on polarized lenses was looking at 3d glasses okay these suddenly popped into my head um whatever happened to 3d television uh it was rubbish i think think is the official statement. Yes. I sort of remember as a kid getting a comic book with a little pair of cheap, flimsy cardboard glasses that had one blue lens and one red lens. Of course, yes. Do you remember those? I do.

Those are called anaglyph glasses. They've been around for a long time now, haven't they? They have been around for a while, actually, haven't they? They're sort of older than you'd expect. But this idea that you have two ever so slightly different images superimposed upon each other, and you have a difference in your lenses that filters one or the other out. So your left eye views one image, the right eye views the other image. The brain puts those two together and makes you think it's 3d um and as i say the the oldest version of that i can find is that that red and blue lens yes i remember

going to to see a movie years and years ago where instead of the colored lenses they had sort of grooves they had uh lines in the lenses the left lens had vertical lines the right lens had horizontal lines okay and the two projected images had those lines in them and filtered each other out um and then as you say they went to polarization and i still don't understand polarization i tried to give it a bit of a google i still don't totally understand how i know that if you have two pairs of polarized sunglasses and you move the lens to 90 degrees, they go practically black. That's right.

Yeah, I used to have a polarizing lens filter on my camera. Yes. And exactly that. You rotate the filter and it cuts out the glare from the sunshine. You rotate it back and it doesn't. Yes. That's some kind of witchcraft to me. I don't understand it.

So yes, please let us know more if you know more. Thank you. We talked about Hollywood people wearing glasses. It's not just people in Hollywood, is it? No. I mean, one of the most famous glasses wearers was John Winston Lennon. John Lennon, yes, of course. I didn't know.

Did you know his middle name was Winston? No, I didn't. How interesting. Yeah. Named after Winston Churchill. Oh, really? Yes. Huh, there you go.

And he had those beautifully iconic, completely round little spectacles, didn't he? Yes. See, I used to think that he had those because he'd always had them since he was a kid. But apparently it was a choice. Was it? He was really myopic, very nearsighted. Yeah. And he needed corrective glasses to see distant objects. Are you nearsighted?

I'm just bad-sighted, Bruce. Okay. So I'll tell you what his prescription was, if you like. Oh, please do. At 31, his prescription was minus 8.25 in his right eye and minus 7.50 in his left eye. Was it really? So that's quite bad. Yes, that is quite bad. Apparently he couldn't see the end of his guitar.

Oh, now, I mean, that's an issue. Yeah, yeah. If you're the front man of the Beatles, that's an issue. Absolutely. I mean, you know, but there's him, there's Gandhi wore the same glasses. I mean, one of the theories is that Gandhi's glasses inspired John Lennon's glasses. Oh, right. Okay.

Albert Einstein also wore glasses. Yes. But there were rumors that he didn't actually need them. He just thought it made him look more intelligent. Oh, really? Well, that's quite a thing these days, isn't it? It is. I believe you can actually buy glasses that don't have a prescription lens.

Yes. They're just a clear piece of glass. They're just there for style. Yes. You see quite a lot of people wearing sort of tinted glasses, don't you, just because they look cool. Cool. Yeah, exactly. But, I mean, obviously John Lennon's not the only musician.

Elton John is quite famous for his outrageous glasses. Cool. Yeah, exactly. But I mean, obviously, John Lennon's not the only musician. Elton John is quite famous for his outrageous glasses. Yeah, yeah. Do you know how many he has? I mean, I've never seen him wear the same pair twice, so he must have quite a few. I'll say it's a lot. Okay. Couple of hundred. A lot more.

Several hundred. A lot more. A thousand. A lot more. A couple of thousand. A lot more. Go on. A lot more. A couple of thousand. A lot more. Go on. 250,000 pairs of glasses.

No. Yep. Do that again. A quarter of a million pairs of glasses. Good grief, Elton John. That is a lot of glasses. Certainly, that's what he's claiming anyway. Well, I mean, where would you even keep those that's

well in one of your several houses well yes i suppose so there's an entire house just dedicated to his glasses collection imagine picking a pair out for the day yes imagine getting them all changed when you're when your prescription changes well that's probably why he's got so many because he's like you know the prescription changes so he has to like take a whole new set yes wow glasses have been used to do all sorts of strange things like there was a there's a chap who was a bit of a genius really he was charles darwin's half cousin okay chap called francis galton and he invented all sorts he was actually a biologist he was looking at victorian eugenics and things like that so he actually used he coined the term eugenics um but he did all sorts of strange things very odd chap

but he invented submersible glasses so that he could read the newspaper underwater in the bath. There is so much that I want to know about that. Presumably, he's holding the paper above the water level. He hasn't also invented waterproof newspapers. Well, he's definitely underwater because he's like, he forgets to breathe. Well, what an interesting character. Although not the most interesting submersible glasses. Have we got even more?

You know the high street opticians, Dolan and Acheson? Yes, I'm aware. Yes. There's a chap, there's a chap called John Dolan. That makes sense. And he invented glasses for horses.

Did he? He did. In 1893, he created a pair of bifocal equine spectacles. And what it did was to the horses, it made it appear that the road was rising upwards in a slope. So the horse took higher steps, looking a bit like those horses in the Olympics that do the dressage. And because of that look, they became very popular with horse trainers and handsome cab owners who thought that the higher steps were sort of more aesthetically pleasing. How wonderful.

And since then, we've actually discovered that about a third of all horses are short-sighted. Really? Yeah. God, the things we discover, eh? So I'm just picturing a whole load of Victorian handsome cabs being pulled around by horses wearing spectacles now. Yes. That's just weird. Isn't that strange?

Very. So I guess, Simon, at this point we should investigate the records held by glasses. Indeed. The smallest pair of spectacles were created by a German manufacturing company called Mikreon. These things are two millimeters wide. They were made using laser technology. The frames are two millimeters wide. That's 0.08 inches.

Wow. And I think they did it just because they wanted to prove their incredible laser technology. Yes. Don't suppose they really have a function. By comparison, the largest pair of spectacles were manufactured in 2004 by a gentleman in the Netherlands. He created a pair of spectacles that were 1.94 meters across. Again, I think it was just a matter of the fact that he could. Wow. across i again i think it was just a matter of the fact that he he could wow each lens was 68

centimeters across um and had a strength of plus 1.25 okay that's what i'm wearing now is it oh there you go you could you could have worn these and that would have worked um the longest chain of spectacles this is odd sorry you mean the chain that goes around your neck to hold the spectacles on no no an actual chain of spectacles okay um in 2022 uh an organization in new jersey linked together 100 000 pairs of spectacles uh connecting them together with rubber bands this chain uh stretched out for 42 749 feet thousand seven hundred and forty nine feet and were put on display in in um liberty state park goodness jersey um why would you do that i can't actually get a definitive answer to that it says that the glasses were later donated to a glasses recycling center in an attempt to sort of overcome eye problems throughout the world as a sort of a charitable event right um but it seems like an interesting way of going about it um but yeah 100 000 pairs of eyeglasses held together

with rubber bands goodness yeah wow um and then you come on to most expensive glasses uh the most expensive pair of glasses i could find was um it says priced approximately at, as if to say they haven't actually been bought yet. I don't know. But priced at $400,000 by a company called Shopper. And they have created the Derigo Vision sunglasses, which are encrusted with diamonds. The frames are 24 karat gold. And yes, they're worth about $400,000. Wow. Yep. Goodness me, that's expensive. Well, I've got nothing more on glasses. No, I am all out of glasses-related facts. It's been a fairly good spectacle, though, hasn't it?

It has, yes. It's really brought the subject into focus. So it has. So thank you very much for listening. Yes, thank you. And we'd love you to come again and listen to one of the future episodes, or ideally, go and listen to the ones that we've done already. And you can amuse yourself for a good few hours. Absolutely. If you have enjoyed listening to this episode, then please go and tell all of

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Au revoir.