Get Sleepy: Sleep meditation and stories - The Sleepy History of Pyjamas

Starting point is 00:00:00 Welcome to Get Sleepy, where we listen, we relax and we get sleepy. My name is Thomas and as always I am your host. It's a pleasure to have your company. Tonight we'll once again trace back through the centuries, to find out all we know about the history of something you might be wearing right now, pajamas. Heather will recount the epic journey of this iconic wardrobe staple, and its role in transforming society. Thank you to Alicia for writing this wonderful story. Before that, I want to send a big thanks to Canva for Teams for sponsoring tonight's

Starting point is 00:00:59 episode. Canva for Teams is a design platform that makes it easy for anyone to create stunning content in any format, from social media posts to videos, presentations and websites. We at Get Sleepy use Canva for Teams every day to create our visual content that you see on your social feeds in our newsletter and on each episode on your podcast apps. And if you happen to be in the business of doing presentations at work or anywhere else, Canva for Teams helps you take them to their next level with professionally designed templates

Starting point is 00:01:42 and tons of other great features. Collaborate with Canva for teens. Right now you can get a free 45 day extended trial when you go to Canva.me-get-sleepy. That's C-A-N-V-A-.me-sash-get-sleepy for a free 45 day extended trial. Conver.me slash Get Sleepy. And thank you to Shopify for their support tonight too. Shopify is the commerce platform revolutionizing millions of businesses worldwide. Just bring your best ideas and Shopify will help you open up shop. Once you start selling, Shopify makes getting paid simple by instantly accepting every type of payment. And whatever you're offering, you can tailor your

Starting point is 00:02:41 online store to best suit your products and unique style, helping your business stand out. Plus, Shopify's award-winning support team are always there to help you every step of the way. Sign up for a $1 per month trial period at shoppifire.com slash get sleepy all lower case. Go to shoppifire.com slash get sleepy to take your business to the next level. SHOPIFY.com slash get sleepy. And finally if you're enjoying the show and you'd like to hear even more episodes, or completely add free, we'd love for you to give Get Sleepy Premium a try. You'll have access to our entire catalogue of over 600 stories and meditations, and you'll also receive an exclusive bonus episode every single Thursday. The first seven days of your premium subscription

Starting point is 00:03:47 are free, so why not join me on premium tomorrow night? For more information visit getsleepy.com-support or just follow the link in the show notes. Thanks so much. in the show notes. Thanks so much. Ok my friends, it's about time we settle in and prepare for our story. The day is done, and with it, so are any and all responsibilities that you have to the outside world. This is your time to rest and recharge. So let go of any resistance to do just that. Ease into the comfort of your bed, noticing how your neck muscles relax as the pillow supports the weight of your head. As you take gentle and easy breaths, begin to sense that with each

Starting point is 00:05:15 breath in, you are drawing a greater calm and peace into your body. And with each exhale, tension. There's nothing more to be done until tomorrow. So don't allow thoughts of what's to come, get in the way of your blissful rest, here and now. Just listen along to tonight's soothing story, and feel free to drop off to sleep whenever you feel ready. Some people have suggested that the origin of the humble pajama stretches all the way back to the reign of the great Han Dynasty Emperor Wu-T. His tenure lasted from the year 144 to the year 87 BCE. Emperor Wu-Ti is known for being both powerful and ambitious. He led the largest expansion of Chinese territory

Starting point is 00:07:43 experienced during the Han Dynasty, eventually controlling land from North Korea on one side, to the depths of Central Asia on the other. In addition to keeping up his offensive attacks, Wu T. had to be vigilant as well. He was plagued by nomadic tribes who relentlessly raided his territory. With so much war to keep up, he wanted to enhance China's military prowess. To do this, he aggressively improved China's cavalry. The story goes that the men of the cavalry found their traditional draped garments to unwieldy for their labors on horseback.

Starting point is 00:08:51 They divided their clothing in half on the bottom, so it would be easier for them to sit in the saddle. in the saddle. Some sources would argue that trousers were already in use in Central Asia at this time, and that these Han Dynasty warriors were merely rising to meet the challenge posed by their agile, nomadic opponents. Either way, there's no doubt that this wardrobe innovation made it easier to succeed at fighting on horseback. Those who did not adapt to the new and improved uniform were in danger of falling quickly behind in their battles. So it is unknown whether China started or simply were simply joined the Calvary Trowser Revolution. But most modern sources agree that the pants worn by soldiers soon evolved to become sensible daywear for civilians in India and Iran. India and Iran. Both men and women found these wide-legged pants with a tie waist to be practical and comfortable for hot weather. The original pronunciation of the Hindi word for this garment is variously reported as having been Pejama or Paijama. According to a national public radio or NPR story, the translation which is also shared by Urdu and Persian, was simply legarmant. Naturally, Asia was not alone in its adoption of trousers.

Starting point is 00:11:19 After the fall of the Roman Empire, Europeans adopted the two-legged garment as well. However, the flowing, comfortable pajama was not part of the western lifestyle yet. With less of a need to beat the heat, it seems that the people of Europe were content to keep their trousers narrow and formal. When the British colonial arrived in India, they quickly realized how sensible these loose trousers were for staying cool. These western newcomers were, however, more interested in pairing them with a tunic and donning them as sleepwear. Evolving the word pyjama to blend in with the trousers, drawers, and pants of English, the British began calling

Starting point is 00:12:29 these two-piece sets, pyjamas. Evidence of their popularity can be found in a publication from 1954 called the Handbook of British India. Touting itself as a guide to the stranger, a traveler, the resident, and all who may have business appertaining to India. This ambitious tone included sage advice. On more afternoons, the author counseled Europeans to Don pajamas, which he also called the Westerners were then supposed to sip iced soda water, lie down on the couch, novel or newspaper in hand, and in all human probability, go to sleep. After picking up this afternoon habit in India, it is no surprise that many British upper-crust

Starting point is 00:13:50 men eventually returned to England unwilling to give up their comfortable new lounging the day where of the Ottoman Empire became the future sleepwear of the West. The popularity of the noble European night shirt would soon begin to slip. The new British pajama enthusiasts wore them as a mark of sophistication, those who boldly sported pajamas, were making it clear that they had traveled widely and experienced other cultures. By the late 19th century, men's pajamas had become mainstream in the United Kingdom. In the early 1900s, British pajamas underwent some alterations. Him lines lifted, creating a shorter top, and a wide array of fabrics appeared.

Starting point is 00:15:14 The British gentleman might be found wearing his jammies in flannel cotton or even silk. Nonetheless, the comfort of the pajama flannel cotton or even silk. Nonetheless, the comfort of the pajama remained a largely male privilege until World War I intervened. You might wonder what would a war have to do with sleepwear? There is some evidence that the expansion of the jamas to women's fashion was partly due to a surprising source, nighttime London bombing raids. During the First World War, Germany deployed zeppelin airships to Britain

Starting point is 00:16:11 as part of its hostilities, carrying out raids under the cover of darkness. This resulted in many nights when city dwellers would be forced to flee to the nearest basement or tube station, huddling in the cold with all of their neighbors. These nighttime alarms happened very suddenly, forcing people to run for cover without a chance to get dressed in their street clothes. The women of London began to adapt, resorting to cloaks and other coverings they could quickly throw over their sleepwear, which alone would have been considered unseemly. In 1915, the Guardian newspaper declared pajamas to be Zeppelin clothes, citing their growing popularity among women who didn't want to be chilly and exposed in their night dresses.

Starting point is 00:17:36 Gently poking fun at the fashion possibilities of this new sleepwear, the article said. Zeppelin pajamas can be made of honest flannel. Very much more often they're made of crepe d'achime, or failing that of Japanese silk. Even as the Zepplins were bombing London, the film actress Billy Burke pushed pajamas further into the spotlight. Nowadays most people would recognize Miss Burke from her much later, 1939 role as Glenda the Good Witch in the Wizard of Oz.

Starting point is 00:18:29 However, she was already making waves in other films decades earlier. Notably, she set off a pajama craze by wearing them in two of her 1916 films. Women loved her on-screen fashion revolution. Embracing this glamorous new look for sleepwear, women began throwing pajama parties for their friends. Finally, the World War drew to a close. If the nighttime hardships of the air raids had popularized pajamas, then it's fair to say the end of the hostilities allowed them to emerge into the daytime.

Starting point is 00:19:33 People started traveling for leisure again and pajamas went with them, appearing at chic European beach towns. This time, however, they were being worn as a resort fashion. Around 1918, Coco Chanel began scandalizing society by wearing pajamas on the beach and doveel friends about an hour from Paris. Although it had once been marshland, this seaside destination had recently become a playground for the rich. Thanks to a clever developer and some careful engineering, the marshland at Doveel was made usable. Wealthy families began building mansions there, followed by two five-star hotels which appeared early in the 20th century. With the addition of a racetrack and a casino, Doveel's Star rose quickly. This prestigious resort was where Chanel's very first clothing shop was located and it quickly resumed its status as a coveted getaway once the war ended. As a designer, Chanel had already been blazing a trail by generally democratizing

Starting point is 00:21:32 women's fashion. Always pursuing that which was natural and comfortable, she boldly envisioned a world where women were freed from clothing that limited them. Her customary daywear in this northern French town was wide trousers and men's jersey tops. It was not at all surprising that she would embrace the flowing nature of pajamas and elevate them to high fashion. Bringing comfortable bedroom style into the open seemed perfectly in character. As with many of Chanel's innovations, both the Lengwood mood and the Androgynous cut of pajamas turned heads at Europe's Hosh's vacation spots. Delighting in this fashion revolution, other trendy ladies followed suit, some arguing that pajamas provided protection from sunburn. High society may have disapproved, but the momentum behind pajamas continue to grow. In 1921, guests at Doveel began gathering for what they called pyjamasuppers. By 1922 the term beach pyjamas had been coined. By the 1920s, Duville was quite a magnet for fashionable visitors,

Starting point is 00:23:51 it for fashionable visitors, and photographers began capturing these outfits on film. Parisian beach styles were shared around the world, influencing fashion everywhere. Weather or not, sun protection was the true motivation. It wasn't long before the French Riviera Resort of Jean-Liban, on Cortezore, was being called the Jammaland. Pajama Land. From France to the rest of the world, a new trend had taken off. Once the nightware of the sophisticated man, Pajamas had now become the statement of the liberated and glamorous woman. Up until this point, Americans had shown a surprising resistance to replacing their nightcharts and nightgowns with this new style. A paper in Kansas called the Lawrence Journal World can be quoted as saying that the jamas were viewed by Hardy, American folk, with the same suspicion that they showed the first bathtubs. Nonetheless, the spokesman review newspaper and spoke

Starting point is 00:25:33 and Washington said in 1927 that American men had finally come around, putting 90% of their sleepwear purchases into pajamas. Indeed, a pair of turquoise pajamas worn by President Warren G. Harding in the early 20s was destined to end up in the future collection of the prestigious Smithsonian Institution. The article continues that even in the late 20s, that even in the late 20s, there were a couple of regions in the United States, the author called the Night Shirt Belt. Here, conservative Midwestern and New England and Dinisons still viewed pajamas with skepticism. These men of the so-called night shirt guard clung a bit longer to their old customs, but it did not stop the pajama revolution from continuing elsewhere. Perhaps fulfilling the worst fears of the pyjama detractors, this new fangled fashion was firmly ensconced as home lounge By the end of the 1920s, it seemed that nothing could stop the spread of pajamas from the women of Europe to their American counterparts. Vogue magazine declared that pajamas had become matters of vivid importance. And further suggested that pajamas is not an amusing novelty.

Starting point is 00:27:57 It has become an essential part of the smart woman's wardrobe. By the next year, beach pajamas were being advertised within its glamorous pages. In the photo, a model stands under a fancy parasol, wearing an embroidered silk, two-piece set, ready to stroll the waterfront. Meanwhile, the Decatur herald in Georgia published a photo of a woman from New York, smoking a cigarette and wearing pajamas on the sounds of a Miami beach. The title of the photo was The Jamas the Latest. A few short years later, in 1927, the elegant Venice Lido Resort declared itself to be

Starting point is 00:29:12 the beach of sunshine and pajamas. At the same time, across the Atlantic, Harper's Bazaar published an article called The Pajama Arise. The magazine stated that an entirely new type of costume had recently joined the wardrobe of the smart woman. Of course, controversy burned on. A more conservative take on the latest waterfront trends could be seen in an article the next year from the Pittsburgh press.

Starting point is 00:30:02 It declared freedom of the seas permits alluring modes. Suggesting that beach pajamas were, quote, sanctioned by a liberal Paris for the very modern maidens of the sea. The men of the night-shirt belt may have been displeased with the latest shocking apparel, but American women were determined to join their sisters overseas in their enjoyment of comfortable leisurewear. Of course, as they became widely adopted for women's public use, pajamas continued to change with the fashion. Their androgynous appearance was adapted. Variations on the original loungewear included bringing in bright patterns, adding lace trim, and creating nipped wastes.

Starting point is 00:31:40 During the 1920s, wide Turkish palazzo-style trousers became increasingly common, although there were also more fitted trousers with laces or buttons at the ankle. Throughout this period, silks and sations were popular. Beach pajamas tended to be either two or three pieces, depending on whether or not they also included a robe or a jacket. Asian influenced patterns were popular as they were a nod to the Edwardian origins of Western pajamas styles. In 1928, an article in the Sunday Morning Star newspaper in Delaware showed that resistance to women's pajamas was waning.

Starting point is 00:32:37 The writer said, the fashion of the jamaic type of costume for beachwear came upon us with amazing speed. Until now, it has taken quite for granted, and for negligee purposes and at home where, the pajama costume is unquestioned. As fate would have it, more daring styles were still in store. That same year, the first tanning oil was introduced. Thanks to the beach resort culture glamorized by Chanel and others, it soon became fashionable to sunbathe

Starting point is 00:33:34 and enjoy life outdoors more freely. Tanning became more popular driven by sun-kissed photos of the rich and famous, spending time basking in the sunshine, whether it be on the beach, in a yacht or playing tennis, had become a mark of privilege, thus it was now desirable. As a result, Beach pajamas evolved. Instead of providing complete coverage, they now featured clever cutouts or were entirely backless. And keeping with this trend toward active life, jumpsuits and bell bottoms emerged, allowing more freedom of movement. Silk, Saturn, and Rayon were commonly used because they were becoming

Starting point is 00:34:51 more affordable at the end of the 1920s. As fitness and sun tans became the ideal pursuits of leisure time. Movement friendly beach pajamas morphed into the first sportswear. In just one decade, the jamas had become widely accepted as both sleepwear and daytime leisurewear despite their detractors. Beach pajamas maintained their popularity well into the 1930s. In England, a pair of female friends created a stir on the Brighton Sea Front in 1932 by strolling the boardwalk in brightly colored pajamas while smoking pipes. Moking Pipes. The Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art has preserved a pair of beach pajamas from 1935 that shows the same penchant for color and fun. It's a one-piece jumper with cropped legs and a deep venec. A geometric pattern is splashed across it in shades of tangerine and teal. Wherever women wanted to assert their right to express themselves, it seemed this daring beatwear would follow.

Starting point is 00:36:56 As the 1930s dawned, the stars of the silver screen further glamorized pajamas in their many styles. Fashionable, sensuous versions traveled back from the resort to the bedroom. Film star ginger Rogers modeled pajamas on screen and off. At the demurrant in a still shot from a film, she is seen in a neatly tailored pair with a collar. Another outfit from late in the decade The other outfit from late in the decade feels her more dramatic side. The photo shows her in a glamorous indoor ice-blue satin look, complete with covered buttons and a black satin overskirt. Catherine Hepburn favored an equally luxurious version of pajamas and a photo from the same era. Hers or gold silk topped with a velvet trimmed robe. velvet-trimmed robe. Naturally, there were still pockets of resistance to all of these options.

Starting point is 00:38:41 Although it was not in tune with the general public sentiment, a convention of health officials made the news in 1931 by getting in an angry debate about pajamas versus night shirts at a Washington D.C. convention. A headline in the Pittsburgh Post Gazette breathlessly reported, pajama night shirt viewed, flares at health mating. Nonetheless, the people had spoken. They would have their trouser passions or day and for night. sessions, or day, and for night. In fact, pajamas began to specialize in a way.

Starting point is 00:39:32 Featured on the covers of magazines such as Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, and Life magazine they took on new functions. One could find pajamas to wear in the kitchen, while gardening, or while sailing a yacht. Having a special pair for any important daily occasion dayly occasion seemed quite chic. Back at the seaside, the era of beach pajamas continued throughout the decade, but the onset of World War II diminished their influence. One reason might be the advancements and textiles which improved elasticity in women's bathing suits. Prior to that time many swim suits were which caused them to sag and lose shape once they were wet. Covering up such a bathing suit made perfect sense. Once the garments became better fitting, it seems likely that more women felt comfortable shedding the outer layer.

Starting point is 00:41:07 Another reason for the decline of beach pajamas may simply be that there was less frivolous attention paid to leisure trips at the shore. As with World War I, the focus was on the crisis at hand, not society and fashion on the sands. The jamas didn't go away, of course. Throughout the nineteen boardies, they still appeared on celebrities and in movies. Claudette Colbert made them look great in a 1942 film. The continuing demand for comfortable sleepwear eventually resulted in another step forward. Women began to wear them as silk shirts and shorts, often bearing Asian influences. A style known as Babydoll, the Jamas, was also introduced. These tended to feature really short bottoms and a sleeveless, smogged shirt.

Starting point is 00:42:32 With the dawn of the 1950s, men finally started to have a little bit more fun with their own pajamas. Finally, expanding beyond the stripes that had helped sway for decades, retailers began offering matched pajamas sets in plaid, easily and multi-tone color combinations. This may also be the first time novelty prints made in appearance on Loungewear. This included the atomic-themed pictures that are synonymous with the era. Many men chose to add a coordinated robe to their ensemble, blurring the line between sleepwear and loungewear. In fact, there were actually pajamas shirts that were marked as cross-over sportswear, with the fashionable patterns and types of colors that were being offered, they really weren't much different than casual shirts. An article in a Kansas newspaper from 1954 estimated that the dollar volume of pajamas sales had replaced net ties as a Christmas gift for men.

Starting point is 00:44:19 Women and children were wearing pajamas at home too. and children were wearing pajamas at home too. Adorable kids in their sleepwear were the stuff of middle America in the 1950s and a subject for nostalgic art. Although the same article stated that 86% of the jamas Although the same article stated that 86% of the jamas were being purchased by women, the author acknowledged that it was impossible to know how many of those sales were for the ladies themselves and how many were for men in their lives. Whatever the case, pajamas sales in the United States continued to grow,

Starting point is 00:45:14 doubling what had been spent by consumers just five years before. Another notable evolution in Kitsleepwear from the 1950sfashioned union suit, which was formerly thermal underwear. The addition of the non-skid closed feet at the bottom resulted in the first mass-produced Furi Pajama, which was marketed under the name Dr. Denton's blanket sleepers. With that said, trouser sleepwear for the entire family was fairly chased in appearance at the time, and its use centered around the home. This was in keeping with many other American values of the era. Not surprisingly, however, the turbulent 1960s turned that monstery on its ear. Even as some of the traditional styles of the 50s continued, some race-ear versions of women's pajamas began to appear. The smog and frilly, babyed all the jamas, women had been wearing for years, could now

Starting point is 00:47:13 also be found in more provocative fabrics that brought lingerie to mind. Advertisements from the period still show many prim and proper cotton sets. However, Gazi Shafan and Silk Baby Doll Fashions adorned with lace and bows were also increasingly popular. These were sometimes called sleep sets and they were a perfect companion to the swinging cocktail culture seen elsewhere during the era. Adding another exotic option, a wide-legged, perkish-style Palazzo pant became popular by the end of the decade. As one ad from 1967 proclaims, a woman was able to choose either sweet or saucy from the range of the jamas available at the time. She could express herself just through her selection of loungewear. at the same time, pajamas hit the high-fashion runways, much as they had once storm the beach

Starting point is 00:48:52 with Coco Chanel. In 1968, the designer Halston showed a line that ranged from minimalistic fabrics and cuts to tie dye, elevating the form to sophistication once again. It seemed the men of the Nightshire Guard had permanently lost their battle for American values. for American values. The year 1975 saw a particularly scientific change in pajamas that were worn by children. In order to improve fire safety, the United States Consumer Product Commission instituted the rule that all children sleepwear had to be flame retardant and close fitting. With time, the requirements have been adapted, but decades of children can now remember growing up wearing this close-fitting sleepwear. And it was often emblazoned with their favorite cartoon characters. In 2021, business insider declared, declared. We are living in the golden age of pajamas, and with the rise of home offices,

Starting point is 00:50:30 that seems almost undeniably true. With more people staying and working at home, society Pajamas' identity updated its sleep wardrobe. Nowadays, Pajamashoppers can find just about any style that expresses their interests or personality. Pajamas and pop culture have merged. Now, what a person wears to bed is part of their personality and style. It's even possible to find ideal pajamas for beloved pets. In fact, according to Business Insider, the Jamas made up a $10 billion industry worldwide in 2019, but are on track to grow to $18 billion

Starting point is 00:51:35 by the year 2027. And people are not just buying a larger number of Vajava sets. They're also spending more on each pair. According to the research group NPD, styles that cost $50 or more have been growing at three times the rate of the rest of the pajama market. To invest in special loungewear is to invest in one's wardrobe.

Starting point is 00:52:18 Looking back, it's hard to imagine what the British handbook to India would make of modern sleepwear. No longer just for afternoon naps, the humble times, values, and historical needs of society. Perhaps for women most of all, the insistence on wearing pajamas was part of a movement to be natural and to freely express themselves. As we work our way toward the middle of the 21st century, there's no doubt that pajamas are at the forefront. As a society, we want to be comfortable in everything we do, day and night. While the world tucks into bed for the night, a new snuggle into your own favorite sleepwear. Rest easy.

Starting point is 00:53:47 In the end, whatever night where you love most, that's the stuff that dreams are made of. Good night. ... ... ... ... ... ... you ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... you you you

Get Sleepy: Sleep meditation and stories - The Sleepy History of Pyjamas

There aren't comments yet for this episode. Click on any sentence in the transcript to leave a comment.