Get Sleepy: Sleep meditation and stories - Travels in Hawaii: Parts 1-3 (Bonus)
Episode Date: August 1, 2026Narrator: Thomas Jones 🇬🇧 Writer: Laila Weir ✍️ Sound effects: floating on the sea 🌊 Welcome back, sleepyheads. Tonight, we visit some of Hawaii's most breathtaking and unique ...natural wonders in a 3-part compilation episode. 😴 Enjoy various playlists of our stories and meditations on our Slumber Studios Spotify profile. Get Sleepy Premium Listen completely ad-free and access our entire catalogue of stories and meditations by subscribing to our premium feed. Your support means the world to us and makes it possible to keep the show running! ❤️ Get your 7-day free trial: getsleepy.com/support. Connect Stay up to date on all our news and even vote on upcoming episodes! Website: slumberstudios.com/getsleepy/ Facebook: facebook.com/getsleepypod/ Instagram: instagram.com/getsleepypod/ Our Apps Redeem exclusive unlimited access to Premium content for 1 month FREE in our mobile apps built by the Get Sleepy and Slumber Studios team: Deep Sleep Sounds: deepsleepsounds.com/getsleepy/ Slumber: slumber.fm/getsleepy/ FAQs Have a query for us or need help with something? You might find your answer here: Get Sleepy FAQs About Get Sleepy Get Sleepy is the #1 storytelling podcast designed to help you get a great night’s rest. By combining sleep meditations with a relaxing bedtime story, each episode will guide you gently towards sleep. Thank you so much for listening! Feedback? Let us know your thoughts! slumberstudios.com/contact-us/. Get Sleepy is a production of Slumber Studios. Check out our podcasts, apps, and more at slumberstudios.com. That’s all for now. Sweet dreams ❤️ 😴 Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
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Welcome to get sleepy.
Where we listen, we relax, and we get sleepy.
I'm your host, Thomas. Thanks for joining us for our August long-length stitch episode.
This month we'll be enjoying all three of our recent adventures in Hawaii, which we first
released over the course of three weeks during the first half of June. All of these stories were
written by Leila and I had the pleasure of narrating them for you.
We'll be snorkeling just off the Hawaiian coast.
exploring a magnificent coral reef, then we'll visit a sacred national historical park,
and finish by wandering through the marvel that is the Volcanoes National Park.
So make yourself comfortable.
Relax your body in whichever ways suit you best.
Close your eyes if you're yet to do so,
and bring to mind the picturesque blue water.
coastline of the Big Island of Hawaii. This is where our story begins. The water is cool and buoyant
around you. You float effortlessly, softly drifting back and forth with the gentle motion of small
waves that ebb and flow across the bay. Your face is underwater, yet you breathe as easily as ever,
thanks to a snorkel attached to your face mask through the polished glass of the mask,
which fits comfortably over your eyes. You're able to gaze around at the underwater world
surrounding you. The bay water is astoundingly clear this morning, and you can easily see down
to the coral bedet sea floor below. You can also see clearly a long way in every direction.
A large fish swims by a few feet away, near an outcropping of coral. The fish sparkles with a rainbow
of colors. It has a turquoise strip along its back. Lavender sides that fade into peach
and pale blue, plus spindly magenta lines that waver across the other shades, like colorful spiderwebs.
It's the most beautiful fish you've ever seen, and you turn your head to watch it pass beneath.
you, you find it mesmerizing with a kind of other-worldly splendor. You arrived on the big
island of Hawaii yesterday. You spent the first evening settling in to the comfortable
beach-side apartment where you'll be staying. Then, this morning, you headed straight out
to this little bay in order to try snorkeling.
around the island's legendary coral reefs, you've never snorkeled in a truly rich marine environment
before. And you've been looking forward to this experience for a very long time. It's only
been a few minutes, but it's already safe to say that you are not disappointed, the rainbow-colored
fish passing beneath you is just one among an impressive number of fascinating creatures that fill
the underwater world, all of which you witness from the surface, you think back to the book about
the sea life of Hawaii that you poured over during your flight here, based on what you read about
the reef fish in the islands and the full-color pictures that illustrated the book. You're almost certain
you can identify the rainbow-colored fish. You feel sure that it's a species of parrot fish. You kick your
feet very slightly as the fish slowly swims away from you. Your feet are encased in large rubber flippers,
that propel you smoothly through the water.
With just the slightest hint of effort, following the fish, you endeavor to get a closer look.
It turns, allowing you to see its front more clearly.
Sure enough, the animal's mouth is rounded in a way that's reminiscent of a parrot's beak.
You remember this from the photos of parrotfish you saw in the book.
The book told you that the most colourful parrot fish, like the one you're following, are males.
But not just any.
There are a specific class of males.
That's because parrotfish can do something that seems astonishing.
They can actually change their size.
sex when needed, probably to make up for low population numbers. You learned from your reading
that female parrot fish and primary male parrot fish, which are those that are born male, have a
duller coloration, but some dominant females eventually switch to become males. When the male guarding
their territory dies, for example. These fish are then known as secondary males, or sometimes super males.
And when they change their sex, they also change their coloring. These secondary males are the ones
adorned with the most striking colors. Like the rainbow beauty you've been admiring. Nature truly is astounding,
you think. As you watch the lovely fish serenely swimming through the water below, our natural world
is filled with seemingly infinite variation. You could devote all your waking hours to
observing the many kinds of creatures within it and the many ways they live and still never cease to be
amazed. Your thoughts wander as your eyes follow the fish. Then you notice another fish nearby,
which pulls you out of your reverie. This one is a much smaller, but equally ornate creature.
It is slim and lithe, with a more typically pointed snout than the parrot fish,
but it is just as colourful and striking as its larger companion.
This second smaller fish is a showy combination of near neon pink and green stripes,
which waver in and out in a magnificently eye-catching pattern.
You remember this fish from the book as well.
It's called a Christmas roll.
perhaps because it's like a tropically bright version of the classic red and green color
scheme of the festive season.
You can hardly believe your luck to see two of the most extraordinary fish in the whole book.
So soon into your snorkeling adventure, but as it turns out, you will see many more of these
stunning creatures, which seem to be relatively common here along the reefs surrounding the island,
seeing the rich diversity of the reef life. You are tremendously grateful to all those people
who've helped protect this ecosystem over the centuries. You feel thankful to the generations
of people, from ancient Hawaiians to the diverse inhabitants of today, who've recognized the value
of living in balance with the natural world, who've acknowledged the power of living in a way
that allows all the creatures of nature, from humans to parrotfish, to thrive, and
you realize, you can thank yourself too for taking a small action to help preserve these beautiful
reefs. That's because this morning you didn't put on the typical sports sunscreens that are so
easy and transparent to apply. Instead, you took just a little extra effort to apply to apply
mineral sunscreen, which is a bit thicker and whiter than other types of sun protection,
but it doesn't harm the coral reefs, unlike the other, and that makes all the difference
in the world. After all, what was a moment of extra effort in comparison to the privilege of
witnessing such a world of beauty as this?
and knowing you helped in your small way to preserve it.
The absolute joy of existing in a world of diverse and thriving nature
is unparalleled, you realize.
You feel lucky and proud to support the ongoing existence of this marine paradise,
and to indulge in the amazing experience of witnessing its subtropical splendor.
A flurry of bright color catches your eye now,
and you turn your head to see a large school of yellow fish swimming along in unison.
A fairly small, oval-shaped fish,
that are a bright sunshine yellow from the top of the top of the top of the same.
of their fins to the tips of their tails. They swim down in a gaudy cloud to feed among the coral,
and you catch your breath a little at the loveliness of the scene they create. You recognize these
fish as well, which are almost certainly the most easily spotted fish along the Hawaiian shores. This species
is called the Yellow Tang.
Or in the Hawaiian language, Laipala, which means yellow tea leaf, not tea as in the drink, mind
you, but spelled tea-eye.
A leafy plant that early Polynesians brought when they settled on the Hawaiian islands long ago.
Yellow tangfish are common around shallow reefs in cooler subtropical waters,
like those in Hawaii, and they tend to move in small groups, such as the one you're watching now.
The cloud of sun yellow fish descends to the sea floor, which undulates with rocks and brightly colored coral.
The yellow tangs hover over the reef, feeding on algae and seaweed that grow on the rocks and coral.
Yellow tang are grazing fish, like sheep or goats on land.
They play an important role in the coral reef ecosystem, keeping algae from growing too abundant and overwhelming the coral.
Interestingly, you remember reading that the yellow tang shifts its appearance at night time.
Like many reef creatures apparently do, after dark, the fish changes from its bright yellow
colour to a darker, greyish yellow, with a thick white band.
It also adapts its behaviour at night.
The group you can see swimming around in daytime, like the school you've been watching,
tend to split up, and the fish lurk separately in little crevices during the dark hours.
Once again, you are amazed at the surprising and wonderful variations of nature.
Right now, the yellow tongue are certain.
at their brightest, as they swarm like a cloud of liquid sunshine over the orange coral.
The scene is simultaneously riveting and profoundly peaceful.
Shafts of light filter through the water, like columns of daylight through the stained glass
window of a cathedral. Blue-tinged shadows meander
placidly over the varied sea floor, as the many colors of the fish swirl around beneath you.
In a visual feast, it is so effortless to float in the cool water.
The quiet sound of your own even breathing fills your ears.
Together, these sensations impart a deep feeling of serenity.
Then, in the corner of your eye, a larger shadow crosses your vision, moving with the same ponderous
slowness as the drifting seaweed.
You look towards the shadow and are awed to see a huge sea turtle swimming along.
Just beneath the surface of the water, the creature's appearance is a large sea turtle swimming along.
is ancient and majestic, with its beautifully intricate shell and wide legs, gently paddling
in the clear water.
You feel as if a hush has overtaken you.
You try to breathe even more slowly than before, and to float with the water's natural currents,
into the environment, so as not to disturb the turtle. You've never been so close to a sea turtle
at such a short distance that you can admire the patterns on its beautiful shell. It is a green
sea turtle, known as Honu in the Hawaiian language. It is the most common type in Hawaii. Although several other
other sea turtle species can also be spotted around the islands.
You watch the ancient creature, move gracefully through the water, it holds an almost prehistoric
appearance.
Observing it gives you a sense of timelessness, of continuity with the past and the future,
you know that sea turtles have lived on earth since the time of the dinosaurs.
In fact, scientists believe they first existed around 120 million years ago, and here they are,
still going about their lives, much as their ancestors did, all that time ago. It puts things into perspective,
think, you feel humbled and inspired in the face of the power and resilience of nature.
Thinking of it makes you feel small, but in a pleasant way it gives you a feeling of belonging
too, of being part of a larger hole that hangs together and makes sense in a way that you can barely
understand, but that can be felt intuitively. You watch the turtle begin to graze along some rocks
just below the water's surface. You know that Hawaiian green sea turtles generally feed in the
shallow waters of the island's bays, reefs and shores. They come out of the water at times
to bask in the sun, much like sunbathing humans. At breeding time, the animals migrate in order
to nest on wide, empty beaches, where the females lay clutches of eggs, before returning to the sea.
The eggs hatch at night, and the baby sea turtles instinctively move towards the brightest horizon,
and around, which is the ocean, beginning their lives in the sea, just like their parents.
Other populations of green sea turtles live all along the coasts of North and South America
on both the Pacific and Atlantic sides, as well as in the Mediterranean and some parts of the Indian Ocean.
However, the Hawaiian sea turtles form their own genetically distinct population.
This group mostly sticks to the area surrounding the islands, though they sometimes range
to other nearby places, like American Samoa.
Now, below the swimming sea turtle, you notice another fish.
small and oval-shaped, reminiscent of the yellow tang you saw earlier. This fish, however,
is multi-colored, white with a large black spot and thin black stripes, all tinged with yellow.
It's a species of butterfly fish, you think. Looking around, you see another similar one.
with slight variations in its coloring.
Like the other fish you've seen,
the butterfly fish are aptly named.
Their gaudy colors and patterns do indeed bring to mind the lovely wings of butterflies.
Then, not far off, a more subtle but equally exquisite creature catches your eye.
It is lurking near the rocks on the sea floor.
This one is an oddly shaped fish.
It's almost rectangular.
The squareish creature is black,
covered with small white dots,
packed closely together all over its body.
The dots are so dense, in fact,
that for a moment,
it's hard to say if it's a blackfish with white spots or a white one with black spots.
This is a spotted box fish, you recall.
A relative of the puffer fish that lives around coral reefs in the more tropical parts of the Pacific Ocean.
The fish looks ungainly with its odd boxy shape.
like it would have a hard time moving through the water.
Yet, you learned in your reading that boxfish are actually well adapted to their underwater
environment.
It's something that shouldn't surprise you, given the incredible adaptability and efficiency,
found everywhere in nature.
Boxfish's rectangular bodies can actually move very much.
effectively through the water, despite their unstreamlined look.
In fact, your book informed you that engineers are using the boxfish as inspiration
for new designs of submarines that can be manoeuvreed efficiently, even in choppy waters.
You gently kick your legs now, and the flippers send you
Gliding over the surface of the water, you feel the water flow over your arms and legs.
Smooth and soft, the top layer of the sea has been warmed by the bright sun.
As your body disturbs the surface, the warm top level of the water mixes with the cooler underlayers around you,
creating a swirling of temperatures that is perfectly comfortable.
Your breathing is easy and relaxed through your snorkel.
It's a wonderful, magical feeling to breathe comfortably here.
It feels a bit like flying as you float above the underwater ward.
What a joy to be able to exist.
assist with ease in this foreign environment, thanks to this simple technology that people have
invented and perfected over the years.
You glide onwards, looking around at the mysterious and incredibly beautiful marine world
surrounding you.
A handful of silvery fish soar along near the surface.
They have long, slim bodies that glimmer in the sunlight, filtering down into the water.
Once again, it's easy to identify the animals from how they look.
These slim silver creatures are appropriately named needlefish.
They typically swim in small schools near the surface of the water, just as you're seeing now,
as they glide through the water.
You marvel at their streamlined bodies, and how they seem to move along with no propulsion
at all.
You compare this to the stocky boxfish drifting in the deep.
It's incredible to witness.
the endless diversity to be found in nature, and to see how each wildly different creature
is perfect in its own unique way as these thoughts drift through your mind. You notice another
fish. More understated than any of the others, its body is a velveteen night black,
With wavy fins and a fan-shaped tail of the same inky colour, but along the base of its fins,
are two glowing white lines, so incandescent that they look almost purple, like a neon sign,
broadcasting its message into a dark night. You watch transfix.
as this fish swims along. Its dazzling features, almost hidden among the bright tropical
wonderland of colours and shapes, you could swim here all day you feel, just soaking in the sights
and sensations that fill this coastal environment, eventually, of course.
You'll get out of the water and take a break.
Maybe you'll lie on the rocks for a while on your soft towel
and let the warm air dry you as you doze in the sunshine.
But for the time being, you'll stay in the water,
kicking slowly along the reef,
discovering all its many wonders,
and thanking the universe for the magic of this moment.
Morning sun is bright in a clear blue sky. You're on the western coast of Hawaii,
the big island of the Hawaiian island chain that shares its name. The air is warm, but comfortable
As a light breeze sweeps off the Pacific Ocean and over the shoreline, you've just arrived
at the place of refuge, a national historical park where you're going to visit a significant
site from the traditional Hawaiian culture.
It's an important ceremonial space perched on the sea shore.
with a large wall surrounding its landward sides.
Within the enclosure, residences, temples, and ceremonial structures once stood.
The place was a refuge where ancient Hawaiians could seek safety and forgiveness
if they broke the sacred order of laws that regulated Hawaiian society.
Under this system, there were hallowed rules that controlled the different parts of traditional life,
including fishing, planting, and harvesting.
Breaking these laws was a very serious matter, but an offender could seek forgiveness
within the place of refuge.
The idea of refuge had its roots.
in the wider Polynesian culture, from which Hawaiian society sprang. Many centuries ago,
Polynesians settled on the Hawaiian islands, bringing their culture with them, which subsequently evolved
into a local variation. A chief could declare land or buildings as places of refuge,
and they would remain so as long as the chief's power continued.
It's believed that this place of refuge preserved now as a national park
was first designated sacred some 450 years ago
by the ruling chief of Kona,
which is now the name of the main town on this side of the island.
As you enter the area, you take note of signs asking you to respect the sacred space and to follow the Hawaiian tradition of asking permission from the ancestors in order to enter.
You pause and close your eyes for a moment, breathing evenly and intentionally emptying your mind.
you reach out with your thoughts to all those who came before you.
You fill your mind with gratitude for their legacy and request their acceptance as you venture forth.
Then you open your eyes again to the sunny scene before you and look around to the place with
interest. Graceful palm trees rise out of the sandy ground. Black lava rock stretches out at the
shore into the blue waters of the Pacific. The wall that surrounds the sacred space is known as the
Great Wall. It's an L-shaped structure that borders the area on its eastern and southern sides.
with the ocean itself completing the enclosure, according to one of the earliest written
descriptions of the place, recorded in 1823 by a missionary and ethnographer named Reverend William
Ellis. A low fence once connected to the wall and sea enclosure along the north-west end.
you can understand why it's called the Great Wall, according to information provided by the National
Park Service. It's almost 12 feet tall, 18 feet thick, and stretches around 965 feet. Early Hawaiians built
the wall more than four centuries ago, using traditional techniques known as
dry masonry. This meant fitting together stones in such a way that they would remain stacked
without mortar or cement to bind them in place. The wall originally included outer portions
faced with smooth volcanic stones, though these are no longer there. Within the enclosure,
An important area of the place of refuge is known as the Royal Grounds.
Chief's residences were located here, as well as some ceremonial structures.
The Royal Grounds lie at the edge of a small and picturesque cove.
Around the grounds are cup holes, which scholars believe may have held sacred sticks,
that marked the bounds of the chief's area. Nearby, you see a thatched structure reconstructed
from historical drawings. It is a recreation of a sacred building that once stood here.
And nowadays, it functions again as a ceremonial site for native Hawaiians. This was the location of a
consecrated morselium, built under the reign of a chief who was in power around the year
1700. The building was later dismantled under orders from a Hawaiian queen in 1829. But in more
recent times, the National Park Service worked with the native Hawaiians from the area to reconstruct
the building. They used an 1823 drawing of the structure, along with notes from an early European
visitor aboard a ship called the HMS Blonde. They tried to make it as close as possible
to how it was in earlier times. The frame of the building is made from the wood of a native
tree of the buckthorn family. This is covered
with dried leaves from a local reed-like plant called the tea plant, spelled T-I, whose along
thin leaves have been widely used in traditional Hawaiian crafts. A fence of coconut tree logs
surrounds the building. Outside it stand carved wooden statues. These were made in recent
years by native Hawaiian carvers, drawing on their family knowledge of traditional ways in order
to replace statues that once stood here. Since these traditional sacred statues are made of wood,
they naturally deteriorate over time. The modern ones need to be replaced periodically,
just as they would have been in times of old, and so carrying on time-tested traditions,
local carvers make new statues when needed to replace the weathered ones.
Many of these carvers are family members of the artisans who created the previous statues.
This continuity is pleasing and encouraging, you think.
It reminds you that people have passed on knowledge and wisdom since the earliest prehistory,
building on that past in new and creative ways that respect tradition and even enhance it
just inland of this reconstructed temple is a site that once held another sacred structure,
also thatched with dried tea leaves.
Much of what is known today about that structure comes via an archaeologist
who spoke with elderly Hawaiians in 1919.
He conversed with various elders,
including one named Ma Inui, who was around 95 years old.
According to these elders, the structure that once stood here had been a temple which the community used for prayers.
These prayers were held four times a month during eight months of the year.
Besides the temple sites, the royal grounds also included.
a canoe landing and fish ponds that were used by Hawaiian royalty, near the cove around which the
royal grounds cluster. There is also a large platform that's believed to have held a chief's house.
An impressive eight-foot retaining wall fronted the platform on the ocean side. In the 1960s, the platform
was restored to how it was in olden times. You observe it with interest. Feeling grateful for all the
care that a multitude of people have put into preserving this place, and that is an ongoing effort,
as with the carved wooden statues, the other parts of this historic park and Hawaiian sacred space,
evolve over time. The National Park Service collaborates with native Hawaiian caretakers
to continue to repair and restore the existing structures. This has involved retouching the
roof and walls of the temple. Just as earlier Hawaiians must have done on a semi-regular basis
centuries ago. The site also continues to be used as a sacred place. Throughout the year,
various religious and cultural ceremonies are held here. Following a lunar calendar used in
Hawaiian tradition, for example, Hawaiian New Year is observed in this space annually. During these
ceremonies, the carved wooden statues are dressed in cloth in accordance with native Hawaiian tradition.
You take a moment to turn in a slow circle, absorbing these old royal and sacred lands and the placid blue waters
of the cove. Then you take a deep breath and give silent,
Thanks for this experience and for the opportunity to enjoy this lovely place.
The air is warm and calm, and you can hear the soft lapping of waves against the rocks.
You feel the sun shining down on you and the ancient landscape around you.
Next, you'll take a hike along a path known as the 187.
31 Trail. Another element of the National Historical Park. This hiking path is a segment of a Hawaiian
trail that ran around the coast of the island long ago. It led from the northern tip along
the western coast where you are now, and around the southern tip to the eastern side of the
island. Early Hawaiians created this track to have a more easily passable route through the
fields of lava rock and dense vegetation that alternately cover the island. This coastal route was
called the Alaloa, also known as the ancient Hawaiian Kingdom Government Road. The old Alaloa Trail run a hundred
175 miles, connecting different communities, royal and religious sites, and other important locations
along the shoreline.
The 1871 Trail is just a short section of the full Alaloa.
Its modern name comes from the year that this section of the trail was restored.
A single historical record dates the restoration to that year.
On August 1, 1871, the Cona Road Supervisor, one Henry Cooper, wrote to inform the Minister
of the Interior that he had remade two miles of the road on the beach at this site.
This bears witness again that, like all things,
in this evolving coastal landscape. Trails and roads too need frequent attention and updating.
You set out along the track, which is wide enough for hikers to pass in both directions.
In fact, it's what was called a two-horse trail. These were paths that were expressly made to have
room for two horses to pass each other. Constructed during the 1800s, these kinds of trails were
lined with cobstones, so that horses could easily follow the route with minimal guidance.
In 1918, a different section of the track was remade for the age of automobiles. But this part
remained as it had been in the days of horse travel. Warmth radiates up from the sun-baked rocks
and packed dirt of the trail, but the breeze off the Pacific keeps you comfortable. The turquoise
blue waters lie to your right, just beyond black lava rock that edges the shore and makes up the
base of the landscape all around you. To your left, inland of the trail, green vegetation sprouts
up. As the land slopes upwards to the mountains that form the island's interior, you walk along
the trail a short way before arriving at an archaeological site. To your left, you see a long,
thin rectangle of dark rock. On a slight slope, it looks like a miniature runway or a short dead-end
road. But in fact, it's an ancient Hawaiian land sledding run. Land-sledding, also called sled
surfing was a unique sport that was practiced in traditional Hawaii. Early Hawaiians laid stones on hills
to create long sloping ramps. They covered these with dirt and reeds, then added oil to make them slick.
Riders used carved wooden sleds with two runners to coast down the ramps. Some would stand on the sled
with their arms stretched out, like a surfer riding the waves. Others would lie on their chests,
like a surfer paddling out. Sled surfing was an elite sport in ancient Hawaii, with only chiefs.
allowed to compete. The sport was practiced during annual New Year's celebrations. Further along the
trail, another interesting sight awaits. This one is a game board carved into the smooth
lava rock. You see small depressions carved into the flat black rock to form a grid that's about a
foot and a half square. It's a board for playing Canane, a traditional Hawaiian game akin to Chequers.
These boards are common along this coast. The game is played with black and white pieces,
historically made from black lava rock and pieces of light-colored coral or seashells, still a
pastime today. The game was important in ancient Hawaii. Early Hawaiians are also said to have
used it as a way of settling disputes and for political purposes, according to Hawaiian elders.
The game boards may have also been used in other ways. For example, they may have served as calendars
and could have been used for accounting, political strategy, charting, navigation, and more.
The famous Hawaiian king, Kamehamea Maya, was reportedly a master of the game
and would play for hours, besting all the members of his entourage.
You can imagine sitting here on the sun-worned rock, playing this.
age-old game of strategy as the blue water whispered over the shore beside you. The image makes
you smile as you begin walking again, eager to see what other fascinating spots lie ahead,
granting you a window into history, and the trail doesn't disappoint for just a little further
On, you see a wall of stacked rocks beside the path, maybe three feet tall.
You look around and notice that this wall turns away from the trail to form a rectangle.
Such walls were used to mark boundaries or property limits, as well as to enclose animal
pens or gardens, which is probably what this was. Up ahead, low cliffs rise just inland. The cliffs form a
semicircle, like a kind of natural amphitheatre. Sometime roughly a thousand years ago,
lava from the Mauna Loa volcano flowed over this landscape on its way to the sea. When that
flow cooled and turned to rock. It formed these cliffs. The surface of the jet black lava rock
is tremendously varied. There are smooth patches and rough ones, swells and waves, ups and downs,
where the surface rises and falls. All these features capture the motion of the once molten
rock that ran like a great river over the ground. The writer Mark Twing compared these cliff sides
to a petrified Niagara Falls, a cascade of lava that cooled and turned to stone, framed in
this natural amphitheatre with the dramatic black cliffs wrapping around it. There once stood another
Temple. Today, you can see the remains of that structure in the form of a large amount of lava
rocks that had been its building materials. You gaze at the setting framed by the stone waterfall of
the cliffs, and imagine how it must have looked in the temple's heyday, given the striking
landscape and the quality of rubble left behind. It must have been a very impressive sight.
It's uncertain now exactly what this particular temple was used for. But local Hawaiians believe
its purpose may have involved astronomical observations or practices related to fishing. Your imagination
wanders the misty landscape of the past as you walk onwards. You only partially take in the
beautiful scenery around you, as your mind's eye is still reconstructing the ancient temple.
Soon though, more features of the here and now. Call your attention back to the present moment.
In front of you, the trail proceeds.
upper ramp to a plateau some 20 feet above. The ramp is built out of stacked lava rock, with higher
rock walls lining its sides. You follow it, climbing towards the cliff top plateau. When you reach the
top, you see a small wooden bench beneath a tree. You sit down in the shade and lay down in the shade and
look around you. The shady patch feels cool and comfortable as you gaze out over the deep blue of
the Pacific Ocean. You look down and see the waves splashing against the shoreline and
coconut trees growing along the coast. From this panoramic viewpoint, you can also look at the
volcanic cliff sides towards the mountainous middle of the island. You can see across the ocean
all the way to the place where the deep blue water meets the paler blue of the sky. This was the
location of an isolated cliff top village whose people cultivated gardens upland towards the
mountains and harvested the bounty of the sea. Your mind is travelling into the past again,
imagining our life here in this lovely place, simply living off the land as people had done
for generations. The modern ramp that led up the cliffside didn't exist then, but villages would have
traversed its predecessor whenever they needed something beyond the confines of their homes and
their upland gardens. Whatever they brought back from elsewhere, they would have carried on foot,
or perhaps sometimes packed on the back of a mule as they climbed up the old trail after your brief stop
on the little bench. You're feeling well rested and curious to see what lies ahead. You stand
up and take a few light stretches. You lift your arms over your head and arch your back,
inhaling a great lungful of the clean sea air. Then you walk on along the trail,
To visit the ancient settlement, you see the remains of walls on the inland side of the path.
This is where the village's houses stood, as well as their animal pens.
Within the walls were stone house platforms.
Upon these platforms would have been homes made of thatched grass.
These houses consisted of a single large room.
shared by the whole family. There were no bathrooms in these grass houses. People
simply bathed in the ocean below the lava cliffs. Of course, there was no electricity
either. And the stars must have shone like fairy lights in the dark Pacific nights. But the
locals could brighten the darkness when they chose.
by lighting strings of dried, oil-rich nuts, like little lanterns in the spaces around the grass homes.
Residents would grow any plants that could handle the dry coastal environment,
but most of their food growing took place inland where there was more rain.
The spot has access to fishing, water, and fertile upland fields, all of which made it a desirable place to live.
Fishing was a major way that Hawaiians sustained themselves and their communities, and the traditional techniques had been honed for generations into an efficient way of life.
Hawaiian fishermen made their gear by hand.
They hewed canoes from felled trees and paddled out from the coast in search of seafood
like mackerel scat, tuna and octopus.
They would attract fish by feeding them and they would bang on the outside of the canoe
to draw the fish's attention, to see,
under the water, the fishermen used an ingenious method. According to stories from one of the families that
resided in this village, they put oil into the water from local cuckooey nuts. The same nuts they
used as lanterns. The floating oil created a kind of window that let them look down below the surface.
Eventually, though, by the early 1900s, the villagers moved away from this spot.
They were drawn to other areas, where they could be closer to expanding inland agricultural regions,
and have access to new 20th century roads.
You walk slowly through the remains of the village, taking in its sights,
and listening to the stories from across the years that it seems to whisper into your imagination.
After a time, you come upon an old, overgrown trail that runs inland towards the mountains.
In early Hawaii, a network of shorter trails connected the shore to the mountains of the interior.
These mountain to shore trails also connected to the bigger route that circumnavigated the coast.
Ancient Hawaiian society divided the land into regions that ran from the mountains to the ocean.
Each of these segments sliced neatly across all the various ecosystems of the island.
the people living in a given region, thus had access to all these different resources.
The dry coast gave them access to the ocean fisheries and sea life.
The rainy inland contained fertile, well-irrigated fields,
where they could grow sweet potatoes, pumpkins, squash and papaya,
as well as sugarcane, bananas, breadfruit, and other food crops,
and the mountain forests provided larger trees for carving canoes and other wooden items.
All the resources were carefully managed and shared throughout the region.
The lateral trails, like this one, connected the shoreline villages,
with their upland gardens and other inland resources.
You stand in the shade of the trees for some time,
contemplating this long-ago trail and settlement,
absorbing its rich history,
along with the exquisite landscape.
And then, at last, you're ready to begin your return track.
You again make your way through the remains of the village and back down the trail ramp
that brought you to the cliff top plateau.
When you reach sea level once again, you face a choice of roots on the ocean side of the trail.
There's another path that leads to the shoreline and the coconut grove you observed from above.
They mark the location of a picnic area and an alternate route back to your starting point.
You decide to go in that direction.
You'll pass more historic sites along this route,
including early cattle pens, salt pans, the site of a former chief's house,
and a sandy beach cove.
You'll pause there, you decide, and sit a while at the edge of the shore,
where the turquoise water meets the bleached coral sand.
You'll put your feet in the ocean and let the cool water wash over them,
as you think of everything you've seen and learned in this extraordinary place.
and then you'll head on again towards other adventures as you continue to discover all the wonders
that this captivating island has to offer. You step out from the car and look around. You're in a small
parking area within Volcanoes National Park. On the big island of Hawaii, you're going to walk
into the rainforest and hike along the edge of a volcanic crater, where you can observe the lush vegetation
and the lava-encrusted valley. The air is cool and fresh in this rainy mountain environment.
It's a far cry from the sunny beaches on the western shore of this Pacific island.
Here, greenery rules everywhere you look.
Watered by the frequent rains and dense mists of this part of the island,
you gaze at the thick forest in front of you.
It's a tangle of lush vegetation.
in varying shades of green, from the palest lime to the deepest forest green.
It's a calming sight.
Contemplating this abundant nature makes you feel a deep sense of peace within.
A peace more profound than you are used to experiencing within the clamour of modern life,
slipping your arms into a lightweight jacket with a soft fleecy interior.
You step forward. A path winds into the greenery ahead, forming an inviting tunnel through the flora,
which grows up and over it. You follow this path, gazing around at the multitude of plants.
There are trees with vines climbing them, low shrubbery and towering vegetation that overhangs the trail.
The canopy above provides shade, that you realise will also shield you from the rain,
that's likely to come along at some point. After all, it's not called a rainforest for nothing.
lightly step along and listen to the sounds of the forest. You hear the soft noises of tree
branches and leaves rustling and shifting, whether from the wind or the movement of unseen
animals, you make out the faint whistling of a breeze high overhead. And you hear a host of
birds calling and singing from somewhere in the foliage. Listening carefully, you can pick out
the individual songs of several feathered creatures. Somewhere just outside your line of sight,
you hear the melodic tones of an apopane, a kind of small crimson bird that's particularly common in these forests.
The upper parney birds pollinate the native Orhia trees, which are only found in the Hawaiian
islands and which dominate these forests.
You glance around and spot some of these trees nearby.
They are easily identified by their striking red blooms, which consist of a mass of stamens,
highly reminiscent of bottle brush trees, you gaze into their leaves and catch a flash of movement
and a glimpse of crimson. It's the Apapani, whose song you heard, its red color is well adapted
to blending in with the bright blossoms it feeds upon, uniquely evolved for the island environment,
Orija trees help maintain the distinct ecosystem of these volcanic lands.
They are a so-called pioneer species that colonizes recent lava flows long before many other plants
can take root.
They also retain water after storms and help prevent erosion.
The trees also play an important part in native Hawaiian culture.
Their wood was originally used for many purposes in early Hawaii.
Their flowers are used to make clays and hula altars, and their leaves form the base for
a medicinal tea.
What's more?
Traditional Hawaiian clothing incorporates the feathers of the feathers of
the birds that live in the O'hia trees, including the bright red plumage of the Apapani.
You can also hear a number of other birds besides the bright feathered O'hia dweller.
You identify a sort of whistling chatter that is the call of the Elypio bird.
This is another species that's common around here.
you turn your head, seeking a glimpse of the little brown-feathered creatures, which can be identified by touches of white on their wings, throat, and tail. No luck this time. But you resolve to keep a sharp eye out for birds in the thick vegetation all around you. You continue strolling and
along with a lightness in your step, determined not to frighten away any animals as you move
through the forest.
Then you hear a very loud bird call that you think is an o-mau bird, a kind of fruit-eating thrush.
But you don't try to look for this one, as you know it's very difficult to spot with its
unassuming grey and brown colouring and its tendency to perch high in the trees.
These rare birds are found only in Hawaii, mostly high up in the rainforest, on the sides of the
island's volcanoes, where you are now, the birds live on the fruits of native plants,
whose seeds they help spread throughout the forest.
Maintaining and rebuilding their habitat, you look at the lush greenery surrounding you,
which provides a home to so many creatures, including the diverse birds whose songs fill the air.
The trees and plants within view are incredibly varied.
When you fast look, you get an impression of dense and vary again.
green. Your eyes only pick out a few tall trees and prominent plants. But the longer you look,
the more details you notice, and the more fascinating elements catch your eye. For example,
you had quickly noticed large, primeval-looking ferns on your first glance. Now,
gazing longer, you observe large coils in the midst of these oversized ferns.
Thick brown vines or branches look like tightly wound rope on the deck of a ship.
These coils, you realize, are new fronds that haven't yet begun to unfur.
You know that there are many types of ferns in the island's ecosystem.
and more than half of them are varieties that aren't found anywhere else in the world.
Ferns were some of the earliest plants to take root on the Hawaiian islands.
When they first formed in molten lava, cooling just above the surface of the ocean,
that's because ferns spread via spores that float in the wind until they lay.
land, taking root wherever they can, if they can.
Winds carried fern spores across the wide Pacific Ocean, until some landed and colonized
to the lava fields of the young volcanic islands.
Today there are some 200 varieties of ferns around the islands, including
numerous ones that you can see right here in the rainforest. Touring above all the others are
hapoo tree ferns. These giants can grow as tall as 35 feet and have occupied an important part
in Hawaiian society and beliefs. In terms of practical uses, their fibres have been used
utilized in pillows and mattresses, and with regards to religious beliefs.
Hawaiian tradition views the towering tree ferns as an embodiment of the earth goddess.
Other ferns were associated with Hawaiian deities as well.
The pig deity is said to occasionally take the form of a smaller fan that's similar-looking,
to the hapū, Hawaiian customs have also incorporated the island's plentiful ferns in other interesting
ways. For example, one fern was used to make a brownish-red dye, one another yielded a liquid,
used for medicinal purposes, looking at the tall fern in front of you with its rope-like coils,
and huge feathery fronds.
You feel as if you could be looking back in time.
This giant plant seems to hearken to the early days of the earth,
when enormous dinosaurs thundered across lands populated with plants and animals,
dramatically different from today,
given their ancient primordial look,
it's easy to believe that ferns were among the first plants
to grow on these outcroppings of land in the middle of the ocean.
But ferns are hardly the only plants
making up the dense forest around you.
There are also thick tree trunks that stretch up and away
before branching out into the canopy far overhead, forming the top or overstory of the forest.
This overstory consists largely of the O'heia trees with their feathery red blossoms, as well as massive coa trees.
These coer trees are giants that grow nal large.
Wild spreading branches reminiscent of live oaks.
Young coer trees have fringe-like leaves, while older ones have large sleek foliage.
The oldest among them can be as tall as a hundred feet.
The dark wood of the coer trees is highly prized and was historically used to carve canoes.
Besides the tall trees that make up the overstory, there are innumerable shrubs, bushes,
and other low plants that sprout from the forest floor.
Indeed, greenery springs forth at every elevation around you.
There are plants growing in, on, and over every inch of the forest, including, including
on other plants, climbing vines and smaller plants fill the forest at every level, even growing
out of soil accumulated in the fork of two tree branches, as well as other unlikely places.
However, one tree you don't see as you walk along is the one widely associated with Hawaii in
vacation dreams and popular representations.
Coconut palms.
These iconic palms are not common at this rainy elevation.
Though they can frequently be seen in coastal areas, the tall coconut palms are widely associated
with Hawaii.
Although, they're not actually native to the islands.
Historians believe that the earliest Polynesian settlers of the Hawaiian Island chain brought
coconut palms with them in their canoes.
The trees were very valuable to these early Hawaiians, providing food, coconut milk, and
oil, even their husks, shells and leaves were useful. Native Hawaiians could weave the fibers of the
coconut husks into cords. They could carve shells into utensils, and they could use the palm fronds
for thatching buildings, among other things. As you walk on, your footsteps make a
quiet sound on the dirt path. You realize a light rain has begun to fall, but as you predicted,
the thick canopy of leaves above shield you and keeps you dry. A heavy mist has descended
into the forest. The rain is so slight that it feels to you like it's hardly more than a settling
of the mist, it dampens the outermost layers of foliage, but can barely reach you, protected as you are,
in the heart of the ancient forest. The path you're following turns now, skirting the edge of the crater.
You step off the track to a lookout point, where a clearing in the vegetation,
gives you an open view down into the bowl-shaped crater. It's a giant circular depression in
the earth with sloping sides covered in the same thick forest plants that surround you here.
The bottom of the crater, however, is largely free of plants. It's covered in black lava rock.
smooth in places and jutting with ragged edges and rock piles in others.
It looks like a moonscape, or perhaps more like a marscape.
Like some kind of alien planet, as you watch,
the translucent white mist drifts across the lava field
and swells through the intensely green rainfall.
forest that encircles the crater. The scene is so hauntingly beautiful that for a long moment,
it doesn't even occur to you to take out your phone and snap a picture of it. Instead,
you just drink it in, letting your eyes wander across the distant slope of the crater.
over the dark undulations of the lava field and past the lush forest in the foreground.
Then, at last, you're ready to continue your walk.
You take a deep breath of the cool, damp air.
Then turn back to the forest.
You make your way along the path again.
revelling in the fresh feeling of the moist atmosphere against your face.
As you go, you keep an eye out for other native plants of the island.
You look for or lapper trees, which have leaves that quake and flutter.
For this reason, the name is sometimes used to refer to hula dancers,
who may mimic the leaves' trembling movement.
These native trees also produce small dark berries
that attract the indigenous or mile birds
you think you may have heard earlier.
The Olapar berries can also yield a dark dye
traditionally used by native Hawaiians.
Meanwhile, pilo plants produce raw,
red or orange fruits that also feed the Amal birds.
You listen more attentively again, wondering if you hear their distant call somewhere in the trees.
The songs of several bird species mingle in the air with the rustling of leaves
and the soft, almost imperceptible sound of the falling lovel.
rain. You notice a constant low trilling sound too, beneath the stops and starts of the
forest symphony. This trilling comes from male sword-tail crickets. They make it by rubbing
their wings together. The distinctive call serves to attract female sword-tail crickets. Listening to
all these diverse and lovely forest noises, you continue along the path. A bit further along, you spot
the fuzzy heart-shaped leaves of an Illihia plant. This Hawaiian plant is a relative of African violets,
and it can grow up to an impressive height of 10 feet tall. When in bloom,
It sports white flowers that are about an inch long.
Although you don't see any of those at the moment,
you wonder if you'll see any marmucky trees.
A small shrub-like member of the Nettel family,
these offer an interesting illustration of natural evolution.
Although they belong to the family of Nettles,
they don't have any stingers themselves.
The reason being, when the ancestors of the modern mar-mucky trees first arrived in the islands,
there were no predators to browse on them.
Not needing to defend themselves against grazing animals,
the plants soon lost their nettles,
like other members of the nettle plant family,
which are used in herbal remedies elsewhere. Marmucky leaves have traditionally been brewed
into a medicinal tea. The trees are also special in another way. They serve as host plants
to one of Hawaii's two native butterfly species. This is another reason you'd like to see one,
in case it could offer a chance to glimpse one of these unique butterflies, the rain is falling
a little harder now. Though you're still dry and comfortable under the forest canopy, the sound of
the drops falling on the leaves and branches draws your ear to high attention once again
as you listen to the falling rain.
You notice a blend of other forest sounds as well, a trilling song,
like the heralds and Amakihi bird.
These are small yellow creatures, with black markings around their eyes.
They feed on insects and nectar in the forest.
You'd love to spot one.
But even more, you wish to see or at least here a Ney-Nay.
A rare Hawaiian goose that is also the state bird of Hawaii.
You know this is unlikely.
National park workers have instituted a breeding and reintroduction program
to bolster Ney-Nay populations in the wild.
But their numbers remain low for the time being.
These beautiful geese, with striped black and white markings, feed on another berry-producing plant of the rainforest.
Oh, hello, this small shrub grows sweet red or yellow fruits that people make into pies and jam.
If you see any, though, you won't be sampling them.
That's because they're such an important source of food for the recovering nai-nay,
and because they are the only food source for the larvae of two rare moths
that exclusively live here.
All halo shrubs are some of the first plants to take root in fresh larvae fields.
along with the red-blossomed Orhia trees.
Perhaps that's part of why native Hawaiian custom holds the berry-producing plant sacred
to the volcano goddess Pele by native Hawaiian custom.
People should offer some of the shrubs berries to the goddess before eating any themselves.
Perhaps you may see other favoured foods of the rare,
Neyne too, such as the spindly Pukyave, with its white or pale pink flowers and berries,
or the hardy a ali shrub, with its colourful red or purple seed capsules.
One of the few plants that can survive wildfires, and that grows in recently burned areas,
or the Kukai Nene, whose berries produce a purplish-black dye, and whose inner bark yields a yellow one,
like the indigenous animals that draw on the many fruits of the land.
Native Hawaiian custom also used the bounty of the islands.
You reflect that, like the indigenous animals that draw on the many fruits,
of the land. Native Hawaiian custom also used all the bounty of the islands, as you walk on,
keeping an eye and air out for the many rare and native species. You ponder the layers upon layers of history
and prehistory that underlie this beautiful land, age-old stories of plight of plethora.
plants, animals, and people lie thick in the background of this place, much like the layers
of volcanic rock that form these ancient mountains, and like the volcanic mountains that continue to
change and evolve. The stories of the plants, animals, and people will also continue to
continue and evolve, stretching out into the haze of the future.
Like the land, these stories will be shaped by all kinds of forces, both natural and human
made.
They'll also be shaped by the actions of people, like those breeding native Nene, or the
ones reviving old customs and those such as yourself who choose to tread lightly on the land
as they soak in the unique environment of the rainforests.
