Motley Fool Hidden Gems Investing - Why Did DTC Retailers Fail?
Episode Date: September 24, 2025We examine the failure of formerly highly valued retail brands like Allbirds, Peloton, and Casper, who were once highly valued only to fall on hard times. Why did they fail to live up to lofty expecta...tions and will agentic shoppic agents lead to another shift in the industry? Travis Hoium, Lou Whiteman, and Rachel Warren discuss: - Why have DTC stocks plunged?- What omnichannel strategies have succeeded?- What’s the future of agentic shopping? Companies discussed: Peloton (PTON), Allbirds (BIRD), Stitch Fix (SFIX), Nike (NKE), Lululemon (LULU). Host: Travis HoiumGuests: Lou Whiteman, Rachel WarrenEngineer: Bart Shannon Advertisements are sponsored content and provided for informational purposes only. The Motley Fool and its affiliates (collectively, “TMF”) do not endorse, recommend, or verify the accuracy or completeness of the statements made within advertisements. TMF is not involved in the offer, sale, or solicitation of any securities advertised herein and makes no representations regarding the suitability, or risks associated with any investment opportunity presented. Investors should conduct their own due diligence and consult with legal, tax, and financial advisors before making any investment decisions. TMF assumes no responsibility for any losses or damages arising from this advertisement. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Transcript
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What happened to the direct-to-consumer trend that was supposed to upend retail?
Motley Fool Money starts now.
Welcome to Motley Fool Money. I'm Travis Hoyum, joined today by Lou Whiteman and Rachel Warren.
Today we want to dig into what happened to this direct-to-consumer retail trend.
this was supposed to be the big thing. I'm thinking about companies like Allbirds, Casper
Mattresses, Warby Parker, Peloton. You remember when Peloton was hot, guys?
Barely.
A little bit.
Five to 10 years ago, I mean, this was the hottest thing in venture capital.
A lot of these companies went public and they did not work out well for investors. Some of that was
the timing of coming public during 2020 or 2021 during the pandemic when valuations were really
high. But at the end of the day, their business models did not turn out to be as profitable
and as high growth as a lot of people thought they were going to be.
So what is the story here, Rachel, with direct-to-consumers? Where did this business
fail? And we'll get to what kind of survived in just a second. But I want to focus on the
failures first, because I think oftentimes that's the best place to learn for investors.
Yeah, there were a few key issues here. And I think it's very notable that that initial
direct-to-consumer playbook really relied on cheap and effective advertising, you know,
on platforms like Facebook, meta platforms, Alphabet, Google, but that quickly changed.
Then there was this dynamic where more and more brands were adopting the direct-to-consumer model.
They were then all competing for that same very finite digital ad space. And, you know,
ad costs went up for everyone. You had updates like Apple's that restricted third-party data
tracking. That also actually made it much more difficult for brands to just practically target
specific consumers and measure the effectiveness of their ads. And importantly, that direct-to-consumer
model, it promised higher margins. But many brands really underestimated the logistical burden that
they would take on trying to replace all of these different elements the traditional retailers
typically embodied. And then, of course, there was the pandemic, which I think really revealed a lot
of the fragility of those supply chains. A lot of these brands were propped up by venture capital
funding, as you noted. And that was a strategy that prioritized aggressive growth over
profitability. And that became really untenable as the market changed. I mean, there's obviously
some businesses that have been successful here, but that's a lot of the story behind it. And it's
really changed over the years to now as we look at this model. Yeah, Lou, this almost seems like
a case where the theory was we'll take out this middleman, the wholesalers, the retailers, we'll
just go directly to the consumer. And what you ended up doing was sticking a different middleman,
which was companies like Facebook and Google in, and they were much better at extracting
the profits from this industry than the original middleman. They're still around. We'll get to
where their role is in the future. But that almost seems like the death knell to a lot of
these businesses. Yeah, I think that's fair. And I think we should take a step back because the
first thing we should say here is retail is really hard. It is hard for new brands to break through,
period. And I don't think we should be surprised that most brands that attempt to break through,
it doesn't go as planned. It's easier now just because of the internet, because, you know,
I mean, back in the day, Apple needed to do a Superbowl commercial or Nike had to, you know,
really show itself with dramatic advertising. There are better ways to break through now,
but at the end of the day, the failure rates always can be high. Rachel mentioned venture
capital. I think it's worth noting that a lot of this came in an era of zero rates,
where it didn't really matter if you're profitable, that the money was cheap enough
that you could throw money at scale and not worry about profitability. I think a lot of what
happened is as rates went up, as just the funding situation changed, profits became more important
and profits in retail is hard. Yeah. This seems like one of those businesses where there was not
a winner take all market. Like Uber, the criticism of Uber was they were burning money forever,
you know, powered by venture capital. But when they won, they could turn up that profitability
crank. And there wasn't a crank like that with Allbirds. Yeah. I mean, look, fashion is different,
right? And retail is different. I don't feel like a lemming if I'm taking Uber because of the network
effects. Nobody wants to wear the same shoes or same pants or the same product as everybody else.
So, yeah, you're never going to get a winner take all. And not to be that guy, Travis, but the other
big thing, and Rachel kind of hit it, is but look, logistics is really hard. And in particular,
retail logistics is really hard because you have to deal with returns and all of that.
A lot of this is, is that look, you know, a small retailers are not supposed to be
national. They're not supposed to, because you need scale. You need all of these things to,
to be direct to consumer. You can't just build that overnight. And for most of these companies,
you can't build it on their own. You can lean into Amazon if you want, but then you're giving
up all your data. So again, it's just, it's a really hard model with really a fickle consumer
base. And yeah, it's just, I hate to say it, but yeah, I think it's more a surprise when these
succeed over time than it is when they fail. Would you say that this is part of the tension
between something like venture capital funding and a business that isn't necessarily built to be a
hundred billion dollar trillion dollar business? You know, I'm picking on all birds here, but
they're kind of the most stark example. If they would have just said, Hey, we're going to have
this really great niche business, and I think those still exist in the DDC space, that may have
been a really great place to be, but their venture capital investors are going, hey, wait a second,
we gave you a billion-dollar valuation. We're expecting you to be a $10 billion company or a
$50 billion company, not just a billion-dollar company. That's not what we do. Venture capital
and into the markets too, right? Because, I mean, Wall Street does not pay for steady, stable,
no growth. You need to generate growth either via margins as a total return story. If you can be a
low growth company with strong margins who can return that cash to shareholders, or you can be
a growth company, but one way or the other, venture and public markets, you just don't get
the benefit if you are treading water. And a lot of these at best, we're going to tread water.
It isn't as if direct-to-consumer is going away. There are still very powerful businesses. I still
buy a lot of my clothes online, Bombas socks, public rec pants, for example. But it seems like
Rachel, the opportunity for investors may have actually been in more picks and shovels place. So
Amazon, which plays a huge role depending on what a retailer wants, but you have Shopify,
which was arming the rebels, these would be kind of the rebels, Meta and Google are going to be
the advertising platforms, there are logistics companies that you know, Lou is kind of alluding
to, is that trend going to continue? And maybe these brands are going to take a little bit
different strategy, but as investors, we're just going to ride this wave of these markets are
growing and those big companies are going to be the beneficiary. Is that kind of the right way
to think about it? I think so. And I think if you're an investor like myself and I wanting
to capitalize on DTC brands, I do think you're doing it through these major platform companies
like you were talking about, you know, the Amazons and Shopifys, or even, you know,
the sort of advertising side of it through Meta or Google. I mean, there is still very much the
reality that these DTC brands, they face intense competition, you know, rising customer acquisition
costs. And so they really do need to rely on the infrastructure that's provided by these
larger players. And I do think that's where we as investors can kind of tap into the changing
tide of the DTC space and the places that brands and third-party sellers go to. I mean,
You think about it, right? Consumers prioritize, for example, the convenience and speed of Amazon. And for many consumers, that's simply where they prefer to shop. You were talking about some of these smaller direct-to-consumer brands that are successful. They're not publicly traded. A lot of them are built on the infrastructure of platforms like Shopify's, right? And Shopify's value has really evolved from simply providing a single storefront to being this very sophisticated platform that manages a brand's entire ecosystem.
So I think what we're seeing right now in the direct-to-consumer space, the most successful brands are adapting their strategy rather than abandoning it.
And a lot of these brands are also integrating online and offline channels to really meet customers where they are.
And I think that's something that's really important to note as well.
We're going to talk about those omni-channels as they're known in just a second.
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welcome back to motley fool money before the break rachel alluded to kind of the next topic
that we're going to talk about here which is brands that have multiple channels if you want
to buy a pair of on shoes for example you can buy them online you can buy them at dicks you can buy
that at a bunch of different retailers so rachel i think the question here is what have the companies
that have succeeded i've mentioned on but there's hoka there's worry there's a whole bunch of other
brands that have not gone through this kind of failure mode that some of the companies that
went public or were then bought out again. I think Casper was an example of that.
What have they done differently to leverage wholesale? And the other name that we should
bring in here is the company that tried to go the opposite direction, which is Nike.
They were the dominant company in wholesale for, what, 30 years. And then they said during the
pandemic, hey, you know what, let's do this D2C thing. And then they've kind of come backwards.
words. So what has been a strategy that has worked for these companies? Because it seems like
some mix of DTC, some mix of wholesale has been the magic there, but it's not always easy to find
the right spot. I think that's right. And I think what we've seen the last few years is Omnichannel
is the more sustainable path. That's what consumers seem to want. You know, we had this
conversation right a few years ago where there was this idea that maybe consumers are going to
entirely, you know, stop shopping in person, for example, and they're going to only shop online.
That's not the reality. Whether it's shopping online, in-store, through third-party, DTC brands and otherwise have really had to contend with this. And I think it's worth noting, these businesses, especially the direct-to-consumer side, they aren't dead. You look at Warby Parker, for example, Glossier, which is a private company. Both of these have expanded beyond a purely online model.
So Warby Parker, they've expanded their physical store presence. They have their in-store sales that now comprise a really significant portion of their revenue. Glossier, which is private, but they've partnered with major retailers like Sephora to broaden their reach. And then Lululemon is, I think, a really great example of a company that has been very effective at the DTC strategy, but also just more broadly that omni-channel approach.
You know, they built their community brand through their stores, you know, offering classes and events. And that was before the e-commerce business grew significantly. And I think you're right. Nike is an excellent example of an idea where DTC alone doesn't work. And I think it also proves that just having that infrastructure in place for a really solid business also isn't enough to make that DTC strategy work.
They wrongly assumed that customers would switch from some of their preferred retail partners to Nike's own websites or stores, and that turned out not to be an effective approach. So I think it shows there's a lot of holes in that model, whether you are a startup or a really established brand like Nike.
Do you think that the way that some of these companies are thinking about their own retail strategy? I remember writing about this probably a decade ago. I'm not far from the Mall of America. And you go through the Mall of America and it's just a showroom. That is the way that I sort of look at it. You don't even need to buy anything there. And I don't think brands like Puma are really selling a whole lot there. It's more, hey, let's get this brand out there. Let's get somebody to figure out what size shoe am I? What size shirt do I like the way that this product feels?
And then maybe I'll go buy it online. Is that part of that retail strategy, too? Because then they also end up in other retailers.
Yeah, I think that's a huge part of it. And I think, again, it goes back to that omni-channel approach. And look, not every retailer is going to win.
I mean, we have seen some of the most established of companies struggle in a changing retail environment the last few years. And there's a lot of reasons for that.
But I think what we have seen is that DTC model hasn't proven to be effective over the long run. It just doesn't resonate with consumers in the same way. And I think that's the key takeaway here.
Lou, I'll give you the last word here. What are you looking for in some of these retail companies, whether it's a brand or whether it's a retailer themselves that can be a sustainable differentiator?
So as an investor, yeah, you got to get distribution right. But the model I think
matters is the economic one, not the distribution one. I think if you get the economics right,
distribution, you can do what you want. And what do you mean by that? Are you
looking for high margins? So I'll tell you exactly what I'm
looking for. Right now, the trend is it's a barbell consumer. We will pay through the nose
for certain items, but we want rock bottom for everything else. And the things we pay for tend
to be fleeting. It tends to be trendy. It tends to be what's real. So if you want a sustainable
business, you hope to get that high end, but you better be able to survive. You better have a
business that works on the low end because inevitably, I think Lululemon is a great
example of this and maybe they can get it back. But for now, Lululemon, what they're fighting
through is, is that their business is getting commoditized and they either need to figure out
how to get people to want to pay more for their version of this product again, or how do we make
money in a market where we have to bring prices down to compete? The best businesses are the ones
that, yes, they can exploit when their products are premium, but they can survive when they're
not. Again, if you figure that out, distribution is part of that. But distribution, I think
distribution, you can have almost any distribution model if the economics are right and you have a
business that it can at least survive when you're simply just out of favor.
How these companies survive may change in the future. We're going to bring
artificial intelligence and AI agents shopping for us into the conversation in a moment.
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welcome back to motley fool money we have to bring artificial intelligence into this last week
alphabet announced or google i guess announced that they are going to be working with paypal to
bring AI shopping agents to the market. Part of that is to be done within the Chrome browser.
So in theory, you could just go to Gemini and say, hey, I really like this pair of pants. Tell
me when it's $50. Maybe they're $75 right now. Tell me when that price comes down a little bit.
That was actually the example that they gave. Made me think that these retailers or these
brand companies are going to be under even more pressure from big tech. But Lou, how does AI
shopping agents change this market if it does at all? I think you're right that retailers should
be worried. I'm just going to reject the idea that AI does my shopping for me. Maybe it should,
it probably should in my case, definitely. But look, I mean, I am the target for Stitch Fix,
OK, because I my fashion sense is terrible. And yet I haven't because I do like to buy my own
clothes. And I think looking at the problems they've had, I mean, part of taste and part of
style is wanting to express yourself. I doubt that we surrender that to AI. The part I can see
doing is, yeah, a race to the bottom for prices because you let me know when this is cheaper
and I will buy it then. As a retailer, you have to either give into that and accept lower margins
or hold your ground and hopefully your competitors don't. I think this makes the retail environment
even tougher for the companies involved. I really don't see a Jetsons like world where
AI is just picking out clothes. And I'm just pleasantly surprised when it shows up anytime
soon, at least for me. The other thing, Rachel, that I thought was interesting in some of these
discussions is that one of the companies fighting AI agent shopping is Amazon. And that's because
it doesn't behoove their business. They don't get that sweet advertising revenue that they get from
you know, retailers paying to be at the top of your search results when you when you search for
something. So it seems like there's a lot of tension here. But what are your thoughts on AI
kind of coming into this? Yeah, I think it's interesting. And I do think there is a real
tension there that we're seeing, obviously, from the big brands you mentioned, like Amazon,
but also, you know, smaller retailers, mom and pop brands that are sort of working to survive
on these platforms. I think that the reality of AI agents as it pertains to retail, I don't think
it's going to be so extreme as, you know, there's an AI that's doing my shopping for me. So I agree
with Lou on that. I think that we are a long way off from that. And I don't even know exactly what
the on-ramps to customer adoption are there. But I do think that it is notable that you do have
everyone from, you know, the Shopify's of the world to Warby Parker, for example, they are
using AI agents and agentic AI to personalize the customer experience, right? So you've got Warby
Parker, they have an AI shopping assistant they launched called Advisor that uses AI to replicate,
you know, an in-store experience at home. And then there's very practical use cases for companies,
right? You know, you could have autonomous agents that could predict demand spikes and automate
replenishment of orders, optimize logistics for businesses. So. And inventory is really the huge
challenge in retail. Huge. So maybe that does make this a little bit better. Yeah, I think
actually the real value here is on the back end for these businesses, for the Amazons of the world
and others. But that super kind of futuristic version of this, I still think that's a really
long way off if that happens at all i want to get your thoughts on this quickly uh does this bring
in new business models you know and i'm thinking of nike used to do those drops right i always
remember the the jordan drops they would something would come for sale at 6 a.m and it'd be sold by
sold out by 605 does that become more common if there is something like ai agents and then does
the world of shopping just become kind of like ebay where the person who's willing to pay the
most for the limited drop is going to be the winner. What do you think, Lou? I think that's
the exception, not the rule. I think maybe it works. But again, I don't think most products,
most brands are going to be able to do that. For my dish soap, I don't think I'll get in on the
limited edition. You know what I mean, though. For most things, I don't think it works. But yes,
it could be a possibility for in-demand items. Rachel, are new business models in the works?
I'm sure there's someone thinking about it. You know, there's this idea where, for example,
brands could set up this AI agent store for a new exclusive drop, and you could have a customer's
personal AI agent interact with the brand's AI agent to negotiate the best price. I think that
that's where we go the way of the metaverse when we're estimating what AI agents are going to be
doing in a way that resonates with consumers. But I do think there's a lot of value to the tech,
and I think companies like Amazon are seeing that. As somebody who doesn't like to do his own
shopping and don't have a lot of fashion sense, I'll take the bullish side here for AI shopping
agents, I would be happy to have an AI that has a little bit better fashion sense, pick out my
clothes for me, and I'll just happily pay for them and let them come to my door. But we'll see how
this plays out. Definitely a topic. We will be covering more here. Speaking of topics tomorrow,
they are talking about the home building industry. They're going to do a deep dive there. So be sure
to tune in tomorrow. As always, people on the program may have interest in the stocks they
talk about and The Motley Fool may have formal recommendations for or against. So don't buy or
sell stocks based solely on what you hear. All personal finance content follows The Motley Fool's
editorial standards and is not approved by advertisers. Advertisements are sponsored
content and provided for informational purposes only. To see our full advertising disclosure,
please check out our show notes. For Lou Whiteman, Rachel Warren, Bart Shannon,
Behind the Glass, and the entire Motley Fool team, I'm Travis Hoem. Thanks for listening
to Motley Fool Money. We'll see you here tomorrow.
Thank you.
