Motley Fool Money - Which Types of Investments Should You Own and Where Should You Own Them
Episode Date: April 4, 2026It’s Month 4 of our financial planning challenge, which we’re calling “A Year Well-Planned.” This month, Fools Robert Brokamp and Stephanie Marini discuss the different ways to invest in stock...s, bonds, and cash, and the account types to consider. Topics covered:-The pros and cons of index funds, actively managed funds, and individual stocks-Choosing between cash and bonds for the safer side of your portfolio-Which types of investments should go in taxable brokerage accounts, 401(k)s, IRAs, and Roths-Two questions to ask of each of your investments: 1) If I didn’t own it, would I buy it today, and 2) is it in the right account?Host: Robert Brokamp, CFP®, EAGuest: Stephanie Marini, CFP®, CRPC®Engineer: Bart Shannon Disclosure: Advertisements are sponsored content and provided for informational purposes only. The Motley Fool and its affiliates (collectively, “TMF”) do not endorse, recommend, or verify the accuracy or completeness of the statements made within advertisements. TMF is not involved in the offer, sale, or solicitation of any securities advertised herein and makes no representations regarding the suitability, or risks associated with any investment opportunity presented. Investors should conduct their own due diligence and consult with legal, tax, and financial advisors before making any investment decisions. TMF assumes no responsibility for any losses or damages arising from this advertisement.We’re committed to transparency: All personal opinions in advertisements from Fools are their own. The product advertised in this episode was loaned to TMF and was returned after a test period or the product advertised in this episode was purchased by TMF. Advertiser has paid for the sponsorship of this episode.Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
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This week on the personal finance edition of Motley Full Money,
how to choose the types of investments you own and where to own them.
I'm Robert Brokamp, and it's the first Saturday of the month,
which means it's time for the next segment of our 2026 financial planning challenge.
This is a back-to-basics episode, as my guest Stephanie Marini and I discuss the pros and cons
of various types of investments and the accounts in which you can hold them.
Because we covered so much ground in this conversation,
we're going to skip the news of the week and get right into our discussion.
This month four of our financial planning challenge, which we're calling a year well planned.
And if you've been following along at home, you've come up with a system to monitor your spending,
your net worth, as well as evaluate your portfolio, and how much you should have in and out of the stock market.
This month, we're going to cover the different ways to invest in stocks, bonds, a little bit of cash,
and the account types to consider.
Here to join me for this very wide-ranging discussion,
is fellow certified financial planner, Stephanie. Welcome back, Stephanie. Thanks so much for having
me. All right. So let's start with the stock side of the portfolio. We are the Motley Fool. We love our
stocks. And let's go through the pros and cons and the various choices. And the main ones are
index funds, actively managed funds and individual stocks. So first up index funds, right? And
these are just funds that track an existing index, such as the SEP 500, NASDAQ 100, but you
find an index fund that tracks just about any asset class, including international stocks, individual sectors,
and industries, even bonds. So Stephanie, why should someone consider index funds?
I think the simplicity of index funds is their greatest benefit. It is the easiest way for money
to be invested in the market without too much research, too much time spent, and still at a low
cost. So because you get that broad diversification, it could be a one-time purchase that gives you
access to the full index that you've chosen. And the fees are extremely low. And we're talking
about 0.03.04 percent, especially with some of these big name Vanguard Schwab Fidelity funds.
So I really, I think that's their biggest asset. Yeah. And it really is a set it and forget
investment. I mean, when I started investing back in the 90s, one of the first things I've always
was at SEP 500 index fund. And I haven't really looked at it since then. You can just hold on to it
pretty much forever. And the evidence is clear that it's tough to beat a relevant index fund.
So why not have a foundation of that? We have the Miley Fool. We love our individual stocks.
But if you know our history, we have been fans of index funds from the very early days.
So totally fine to have at least a foundation of index funds. Now, why, Stephanie, would you consider
not doing index funds? What are some of the downsides? I think the easiest downside of it,
you know, if simplicity is going to be the pro, it's kind of boring. On the other side, you don't get
the flexibility or the niche of researching and picking what you're interested in. It is that set it and
forget it. So you don't have to look at it anymore. And, you know, in terms of returns, it's not going
to beat the market. I mean, you might hear, you know, small little percentage points here and there.
But the point is that it matches. An index fund will match its respective markets. You're never going to get
those, you know, headline returns that's going to make you the millions of picking the right company.
So I think the boring part of it is its biggest downside.
Yeah, and you do have to be careful, right?
Because there are many index funds out there that track maybe more smaller industries or sectors
or even country index funds that are actually not all that diversified.
They're pretty much dominated by two or three stocks.
So you do need to look at the index fund to determine whether it makes sense for you.
And you still have to choose which index funds.
And you have to choose the right mix of index funds.
So it's not completely said it and forget it, despite what we're saying,
you still have to make some decisions about which ones to buy and how much to have in each.
I think that actually brings up a good point.
You know, if you're buying one index fund and continue adding to that one, you have the diversification
within that index fund.
As you start building your portfolio and you might be adding different index funds to build
out your portfolio, you have to be careful with that stock overlap to make sure you're not
overly concentrated in those top holdings because a lot of them can overlap.
So it is not quite set it and forget it, like you said, especially as your portfolio grows and you keep adding to it.
But in terms of getting started, I do think it's the easiest way.
If you love the idea of funds in which you make one purchase but then get diversified access exposure to all kinds of investments,
the competition to index funds are actively managed funds.
And these are investments in which there's a team of managers and analysts who actually pick the securities in the fund rather than just mimicking an index.
So what are the advantages here?
I think for actively managed funds, you do have more of a potential to beat the market.
That's what these managers are trying to do is make the tweaks and adding more or less of the different mixes to try and beat the market.
And then again, on the downside, because you have active managers, they are making the changes to try and lessen any downside exposure as well if the market turns.
I think another benefit of actively managed funds is you can get more niche on your strategy.
You know, with active managers, you can get very, very specific into someone's investment opinions,
what they think is going to be the next sector.
And so it allows much more niche investing styles.
Yeah, I'll build on that.
You know, there are funds out there, teams out there, managers out there who do have these unique skills
or at least unique interests.
And by adding that fund to your portfolio, you get a certain level of diversification that you may not get through an index fund or picking your own investments.
You just have to stay on top of them because the evidence is clear that it is difficult to beat a comparable index fund.
So definitely takes more time.
If you're going to be investing in actively managed funds, you should be checking on those returns at least once a year because you're going to be paying higher costs.
So you want to make sure that money is worth it.
Speaking of the higher costs, what are some of the other downsides of actively managed funds?
I think if you're going to have a manager, a human involved in picking, that you have the risk associated with that.
A manager could leave, and then what does that do to an investment strategy?
A manager can be wrong.
And so you have a bit more of that human aspect.
And then along with that, because you are getting more niche or using that rationale, you can have a style drift over the years.
It's not that set it and forget it that maybe some of the index funds are because opinions change, companies change,
and that could move the needle on how you're invested.
Yeah, I think you have to set your expectations with actively managed funds that they are going to go through periods of underperformance.
And if you're not comfortable of that, it's probably not the right move.
Just stick with the index fund.
And also actively managed funds tend to be more tax inefficient than index funds, not always.
But so if you're going to go this route, it's probably best to keep them in an IRA or 401K.
And if you go to a site like Morningstar, you can see the after-tax returns.
on various funds. So you can compare those to an index fund to see like,
okay, this money is going to a taxable brokerage account,
but it's very tax inefficient. Maybe on an after-tax basis,
this is not the fund for me. All right. So let's say you don't want to pay anybody
to pick your investments. You don't want to pay an index fund provider. You don't want to pay
an active manager. You want to pick your own individual stocks, which of course is what we do
a lot here at the Motley Fool. Stephanie, what are the advantages?
I think the full control is the advantage for our head.
heavy researchers out there, the fact that you can research, you have the conviction to pick
your own and build your own portfolio, I think is really not something you can get anywhere else.
Everything else is going to come up with that prefix basket for you. Individual stocks allowed
you to build the basket. And so there's a huge amount of beating the market and the returns
that you can get if you choose right. And then I think the tax flexibility is an underrated
benefit that individual stocks hold because you're not.
subject to a fund manager selling off a portion of the portfolio to invest in something else
and leaving the investor with the tax liability. So being able to control when the sell, how long
you've held it, shorter long-term capital gains is a really big pro for individual stocks.
Yeah, I'll piggyback on that. It's not only just the control in terms of buying and selling
and the tax consequences, but it's your exposure to various sectors and industries and individual
stocks. It's all within your control. The tax aspect, too, is you could also
do more targeted tax loss harvesting if you're owning individual stocks than what you can get
with index funds or actively managed funds. And of course, the big big side is just everyone wants
to get the next Amazon or Apple or Nvidia, which is not easy to do. But if you can get one or two
or three of those, it can really be life-changing wealth. That said, it's not easy. So what are some
of the downsides to investing in individual stocks? I mean, I think you mentioned the first one.
it's that easy to pick if we all knew what the next NVIDIAs would be, wouldn't be the next NVIDIA.
And so I think having eggs in one basket, I think that as humans, as individual investors,
it's easy to be excited in one sector, in one area.
And so it's hard to force yourself into creating a basket fully diversified, not limited
in one sector, in one area.
And again, it's hard to pick winners consistently.
I think the stats out there are not good if you wanted to Google them as far as how many
people, you know, win and lose, especially if you look up the day trader rates. So I think that is
the hardest thing to have to get over of. Even if you are investing in individual stocks, you have to
be well diversified in the number, but also the sector, the industry that you are investing in.
Yeah, here, the model of a full. And I've mentioned this in previous episodes. We often say
you should own at least 25 stocks, but our CEO and co-founder, Tom Gardner has moved that up to 50.
And then there are other just rules of them, you know, you don't want to have more than 10% in one
stock or maybe 20 to 30 percent in one sector. So that takes a lot of work to get that much diversification.
There's a concept from CPA, Mitchell Baldridge, who used the term return on hassle, right?
We know return on risk, we know return on equity, but there's return on hassle to investing in
individual stocks. It takes a lot of time to find the stocks and then hold them and decide when to sell
them. So if you're going to go investing in individual stocks, and I assume most people listening
to this podcast are doing it, I know I'm doing it. You should certainly track your return
to make sure that extra time and effort is paying off,
because if not, you might have been just been better off in an index fund.
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People thought denim on denim was peak fashion, inline skates were everywhere,
and two out of three women rocked, the Rachel.
While those things stayed in the 90s,
one thing that hasn't is that fuzzy feeling you get when WestJet welcomes you on board.
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Travel back in time with us and actually travel with us at westjet.com slash 30 years.
All right, let's move on to the non-stock side.
So this is money you want to keep safer.
The main choices are cash and bonds.
So how do you think people should go about making the choice between one or the other or maybe a little bit of both?
I think that's super personal.
I think a huge portion of this is a risk tolerance.
What is your capacity for risk?
And also when you're going to need the money.
So, you know, I am still working.
My husband and I are both employed.
We talk about three to six months of emergency fund in cash.
cash in something like a high-yield savings account where we can access right away. But as we get older,
as we near retirement, we are going to have closer to three years, five years of cash liquid to
fund our retirement. So I think age is a big factor. I think risk tolerance as far as what household
income looks like, how secure jobs are, are you commission-based. I think that's a big part of
how much should be kept liquid. And so that is on that cash side of the equation. And bonds are
or in some ways a hedge against those stock or stock portfolio, whether that be individual,
actively managed funds or index funds. But bonds do have some access to the market, higher returns
typically than a high-yield savings account, but on the more conservative side still, because they
are paying that dividend and interest throughout the course of the bond. When you look over history,
bonds have outperformed cash by like one to two percentage points a year annualized, which may not
not like much, but you compound that over decades that it's meaningful. Now, if you've been
investing in bonds over the last five years, you haven't seen that. The Vanguard total bond market
ETF has returned and annualized 0.3% over the past five years. So you would have been better off
in cash. So there is a little bit more risk or uncertainty with bonds. So you just have to decide
on whether that is worth it. I think any money you need in the next one to three years probably is best
off in cash. The other thing to consider with bonds too, though, is that some bonds do have tax
advantages, right? Treasuries are federally taxable, but free of state income taxes, and then there's
municipal bonds, which can be completely tax-free if you do it right, as opposed to cash, which will
be taxable at the federal and state level. So if you're in a higher tax bracket, maybe in a high-tax
state, that also could tilt you more towards the bonds, assuming this is in your taxable brokerage
account, not your IRA or 401K. And then another point I'll mention here that you highlighted,
it's get the high-yield savings account. Don't stick with the default at your bank or even in
brokerage account. These days, you should be able to get over 3% through the high yield savings
account, maybe through a money market. You shouldn't have to settle for anything less than 3%
these days. If you decide that you want to invest in bonds, you do have a choice. You could invest
in individual bonds or bond funds. So how should someone choose which is best for them?
Well, I think in terms of what's best for them, I think looking at the yield that bonds are getting.
So you mentioned the Vanguard bond fund has been returning very little. I know at one point,
a couple of years ago, the I bonds, I think they had that record rate 8%. That's something we hadn't
seen in a while that was on the individual side. So you had to go through Treasury Direct in order to
buy that particular I bond. And that rate was only good for six months. So again, it has more
of that work aspect to it because you will have to research the bond. You will have to see if it's
a municipal bond, does it fall under that exemption? What, you know, what state is it in? What city
is it in. So individual bonds are going to have that more work, but because you are buying an
individual bond, you know what the yield is and therefore what you're going to get on an
buying your annual basis. So that has a bit more control versus a bond fund is more in line with
that index fund where it is a sudden forget it. They will do the work for you. You're buying a
premixed basket. But on one hand, the returns, you know, they're shooting for something. Are they
going to get it? Are things sold? It's a bit out of the control. Yeah. With the individual bonds,
you just have more predictability, right? If you invest $1,000 at a five-year bond at yielding
4%, you know how much interest you're going to get every year, and you know in five years
you get your $1,000 back, assuming the issuer is still in business. But it does take more work,
and it may not be as diversified. You mentioned I bonds. Those come from Uncle Sam. Those are
considered pretty safe. But if you move into corporate bonds, then you do have to worry about risk.
So with the bond fund, you get the instant diversification, and it's easier to reinvest the interest,
right? If you have a thousand dollar bond paying 4%,
you're going to get $40 a year, but you can't really reinvest that in the bond that issued it.
Whereas with a bond fund, it's very easy to reinvest your interest to accumulate more shares.
The final point on this, I'll just highlight that over the last several years, there's been this sort of hybrid,
known as Target Date bond funds.
So these are bond funds that only buy bonds that mature all in the same year, like maybe 2030,
for example, a 2030 target date bond fund would just own bonds that mature in 2030.
When those bonds mature, they're all cash, and then you get the cash.
as the investor and the fund ceases to exist. But it provides a little bit of the best of both worlds.
You get the instant diversification. You get the easy reinvestment, but you have a little bit more
certainty about what it will be worth in the future. And if those are of interest to you, the two
biggest providers are Invesco and their bullet shares and BlackRock and their iBonds, which is
confusing because these are not the same eye bonds from Uncle Sam. And Vanguard recently got into
this space too. So that's a place to look if you're interested in bond funds, but with a little
little bit more certainty. All right, let's move on to a whole other topic here. You know,
if you've been following along, you've thought about the investments that you'll own in what
form. Now you have to choose from among the account choices. We're just going to highlight the
three big ones. Those are a taxable brokerage account, IRAs and employer-sponsored accounts like
401ks. So let's go through each of those types of accounts and maybe just provide some thoughts
on which types of investments should go in those accounts. Let's start with taxable
brokerage accounts, Stephanie. What are the advantages and what
types of investment should go in them? I think the biggest advantage for a taxable brokerage account
is unlike the other two, there are really no rules attached to a brokerage account. It's your money.
You could put as much in there as you want every year. There's no limits. There's no contribution
limits. Income qualifications you have to hit. So that's the biggest plus. Then you can invest
in anything that you want. So any type of investment can go in a brokerage account, whether that be a
rate, cash, bond, funds, active, manage individual stocks, everything can go in there. So I think that's a huge
advantage. And then similarly to the no rules attached, there's also no rule attached when you pull the money
out. There's no penalties to be mindful of. There are taxes due. You know, there's capital gains
going to be involved or capital losses. But again, you have the control of when you're pulling those
lovers. You don't have to worry about it hitting any age requirement before you avoid a penalty for taking
the money out. So I think that is the biggest advantages for a taxable brokerage account. And as far as
what type of funds can go in this, I personally like to have the set it and forget it the index funds,
not as much turnover, not getting as many dividends. Because again, that's something that will have
a tax consequence every year that I personally don't want to have to manage. So I like having the
control of when I'm buying and selling. And those set it and forget it type of investment are typically
best in something like this. Yeah, you've hit on all the highlights. I don't have much to add there,
right? With regular retirement accounts, you generally have to leave the money until age 59 and a half.
There are ways around it, but you should basically be thinking about leaving that money in there to
your 60s. And with brokerage accounts, you just don't have to worry about that. And I'll just second
what you said. You want to choose your most tax efficient investments for your taxable brokerage
account. So that could be a stock that doesn't have a yield. It could be index funds. It could be
your municipal bonds or any sort of bonds that have tax advantages. And I should also,
point out there's some tax-free money markets as well. So those are things to consider.
Now let's move on to employer-sponsored accounts like a 401k, 403B, maybe the federal
savings plan. And just so everyone knows, for 22 to the 6, I'm just going to read the limits here.
It's 24,500. If you'll be below the age of 50 by the end of the year, it's 32,500. If you'll be
between the ages of 50 and 59 or over the age of 64 by the end of the year. And then there's
the super catch-ups that have just been around now for a couple of years. That is if you'll be
between 60 and 63 by the end of the year, and that is 35,750. All right, with all that said,
what's good about a 401k or similar type of account, Stephanie? I think for me, mentality hits on
401K. I think the aspect of having the money taken out and that savings before it hits your checking
account or before you get your paycheck is huge. So it's that pay yourself first mentality that you can
get with these accounts. Again, having money taken out can be pre or post.
tax if an employer offers a raw 401k. But it's taken out before you get your check and it hits your
account. So I think that is a huge benefit to help a mindset shift of starting to save. And usually
along with these employer plans, there is some kind of eligible match. So if a company will
offer, if you put in 4%, we will match 50% up until a certain amount. That's essentially free money,
which I'm about maximizing. So if we can encourage that savings rate and again,
living below your means, I think that is going to be someone's greatest asset and the greatest
way to grow wealth slowly but surely over the long term.
Yep, I totally agree.
And of course, these have tax advantages.
Depends on whether the traditional Roth, or we're going to touch a little bit on that
toward the end, but you do get the tax advantages.
You actually also get some legal protections in one of these types of accounts.
There's some bankruptcy protection, some lawsuit protection that you get with these accounts.
So that might be something to consider, especially if you work in some sort of profession,
there's significant legal liability.
So those are all very good.
What are some of the limits to investing in these types of accounts?
I think one limit we talked about a little bit earlier are the ramifications of when you're
allowed to access the money.
There are a lot of stipulations about being, you know, 59.5 is that big target year.
There's a little bit of 55.
You might be able to access.
And again, some exceptions.
but for the most part, you have to be at least 59.5 to access penalty free from a employer
qualified plan. And I also think a limitation for most employer-based plans are the employer's
going to limit the investment options that you have. So usually it's a good mix. I mean,
they have every employer that I've seen or worked with has had a decent offering, but you are still
limited. They're going to give, you know, maybe 10 to 30 options. Some are now starting to offer.
for a brokerage option, but they're much fewer and far between. So being limited on that
could be a downside. Yeah, the limited investment choices and their extra costs, right? It actually
costs an employer to offer a 401k or a similar plan. Sometimes the employer will shoulder all those
costs, but most times they don't. So you're sharing in those costs and you mentioned the illiquidity,
right? In some cases, you can't get the money out of the employer plan at all if you're still working
there, you might be able to take a loan against it, but that has its own risks, because if you
don't pay the money back in a timely manner, that's considered a distribution, and you'll be
possibly tax penalized. So you definitely have to be very comfortable with leaving that money
in the account. When it comes to deciding which type of investment should go into, like a 401k or
4.3B, what should you think about? Well, first, the options, right? So because it's an employer-qualified
plan, the employer is going to give the options available to you. So an individual could be very
limited in what goes in there. But one positive of that is because the qualified plan,
taxes are delayed until withdrawals, you can, A, make changes and not be worried about capital gains
as you're making changes, but then you also can have things like dividends that are not paid,
the taxes are not paid annually. So I think that's something to consider when you're looking at an
employer-sponsored plan. Yeah, that's a good way to think about it. Like you do, most of your
rebalancing within your employer plan, but then you use your taxable brokerage account for the
investments that you're going to hold for many, many years, if not decades. And as you point out,
you know, you only have certain number of choices in the employer plan, but often they will at least
include a foundation of index funds. So if you are someone who wants to invest in index funds,
your employer plan might be the place to do it. In fact, they might have lower cost index funds
that are available to you outside the plan. Use the 401k or 403B for the index fund investing that you
do and then use your brokerage account or your other accounts for the other types of investing.
Now, there are other retirement accounts available out there that have some other choices and
maybe lower costs, and those are IRAs, of course. And I'm going to read the limits for 2025
and 2026 because it's not too late to contribute to an IRA for 2025. You have until April 15th. So
the limits for 2025 are $7,000 or $8,000 if you'll be 50 and older. And for 2026, it's $7,500 or
$8,600 if you will be $5,000.
or older by the end of the year. All right. So tell us a little bit about what you think are the
advantages of IRAs. Well, I think like a brokerage account, the no restriction on investment options
is a huge benefit for an IRA. I think that having it within your control, being able to
pick the investment choices, again, that you have. It helps build a portfolio that you are
an individual is in control of. So I think that is good. There are some, again, some ways to access
money, especially if you're considering a Roth contributions are able to be accessed a bit earlier.
So I think that is a pro for IRAs. I do think that in terms of being different from an employer
sponsored plan, the lower limitation, lower contribution limits does make it a little bit difficult,
though. The contribution limits are definitely lower. The expenses are generally lower, though,
so that's good too. Another thing that I think it's important to consider is that if you like the Roth account,
you may or may not be able to contribute to a Roth IRA depends on your income, whereas with the
Roth 401k or Roth 403B, whatever you have at your office, you can always contribute regardless of
your income level. And since I brought up the Roth, Stephanie, just give us some quick thoughts
on how you think people should decide between the traditional and the Roth account.
So I think a big question is whether or not you believe you are going to be in a higher tax
bracket right now or in the future. And that could be two part where you think tax brackets will go
in the future and how they will be adjusted, but also what your earnings are and how you think that
will be affected. And so you mentioned contribution limits. It's something to be mindful of.
And then you do you might not be eligible to invest in a Roth. It's there above those contribution
limits. And so that's the first thing to take into account. And then I would say the second thing
is because of Roth, the withdrawals are not taxed because funds have already been taxed, the money
that you put in is already taxed. When you take those withdrawals, they are not taxed. The question
decides when do you want to pay the tax? Now while you're still working or later when you're in
retirement. So, you know, I've had clients go both ways trying to predict different things.
I will say I think the best option is to have a little bit in every bucket so that you can play
with those levers in retirement.
The other benefit of the Roth is you do not have required minimum distributions at age 73 or
age 75 if you were born in 1960 or later, which usually is not a big deal for most people.
But if you enter retirement with, you know, well over a million, maybe multiple millions of
dollars, once you get to your 80s or so, and that's mostly in traditional accounts, your RMDs
are actually going to be pretty significant.
And there are calculators out there on the web that could help you estimate your future
RMDs. And if they look like they're going to be way more than you need, then you might want to
favor Roth accounts. All right, when it comes to investing in IRA, Stephanie, what do you think about?
Well, I think the question then becomes, is it a traditional or Roth IRA? Specifically for the
Roth IRAs, again, because the funds are post-tax and they won't ever be subject to RMDs or
taxes upon the withdrawal, I would say your highest growth potential asset should go in Ross.
So things you plan on keeping forever, those high, if you're going to invest in individual stocks,
any type of high growth, that could be a perfect option for a Roth IRA.
In terms of individual IRAs, because again, you're more, it will be subject to RMDs.
I think that you do have access to the full market.
So sticking with your overall asset allocation, but the world is your oyster for that.
All right.
Final question here, Stephanie, we've covered a lot of ground.
Do you have any final thoughts at choosing how to invest?
and in which types of accounts?
I think getting invested is probably the start of every conversation.
It can be very easy to say, I don't have an S-Money area.
I don't know where it's going to come from.
The getting invested, having access to that compounding is the greatest aspect to consider.
In terms of order funding, we've talked about a lot of different things, a lot of different accounts.
I would say my preference of order funding is invest in an employer-qualified plan to get a match,
to get that free money, consider the differences then between a Roth and traditional IRA. Again,
if you're eligible for a Roth and then the brokerage account for anything left over. And again,
consider that as you enter into retirement, you as an individual have much more control over the
withdrawals and funding. You're no longer getting that paycheck. So you get to control those lovers
of where you're pulling money from and really control that tax bill at the end of the year. So having
access to all of these different buckets will give you the most options in retirement.
I think also it's very important. Just understand this is not an either or decision.
You can do a little bit of both and that's what I do. I have a lot of index funds. I have some
actively managed funds that I stay on top of. And I own, I don't know how many stocks,
but many individual stocks as well. And I think if you are starting out, you might start with a
foundation of index funds and then gradually move into investing in individual stocks. You may love
it and eventually move completely into individual stocks.
But starting off with the foundation of index funds, maybe some actively managed funds,
I think is the best way to start.
Well, Stephanie, thank you for joining us.
Thanks for having me.
Where are my gloves?
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It's time to get it done, fools.
And as a follow-up to my conversation with Stephanie,
I'm going to suggest that you look at every investment you own and ask two questions.
The first is, if you didn't own this investment, would you buy it today?
This is not about whether you're happy you bought it back when you did.
It's about whether you'd buy it today, given your assessment of its future prospects.
Now, the past might play a role, right, in the decision, you might evaluate the performance of a
company's leadership up to this point, or maybe the performance of a fund manager if you own
actively managed funds.
But if your portfolio were 100% cash that you wanted to deploy, would you buy that investment?
If the answer is no, seriously consider why you're still holding it, of course, considering any tax
consequences of selling.
And speaking of taxes, here's the second question to ask of each of your investments.
Is it in the right account?
Are your tax inefficient investments in your tax?
advantage accounts? Are you using your taxable brokerage accounts for low or no yielding stocks that you
plan to hold on to for a really long time? Are you putting the investments with the greatest
growth potential in your Roths? If not, you might want to do some rearranging again while being
mindful of the tax consequences. And that, my fullest friends, is the show. Thanks for listening,
and thanks as always to Bart Shannon, the engineer for this episode. People on the program may have
interest in the investments they talk about, and the Molly Fool may have formal recommendations
for or against.
buy or sell investments based solely on what you hear. All personal finance content follows
Motley Fool editorial standards and is not approved by advertisers. Advertisements are
sponsored content and provided for informational purposes only. To see our full
advertising disclosure, please check out our show notes. I'm Robert Browcamp. Pull on everybody.
