Ologies with Alie Ward - Zymology (BEER) Encore with Quinton Sturgeon
Episode Date: July 21, 2022Nothin' like crackin' open a cold one with the Ologites, amirite? If you like booze, you'll love... fungus! Alie goes Rogue and takes a field trip to a brewery in Newport, OR where she smells vats of ...bubbling beer slop and learns about the microorganisms that are the workhorses of the brewing industry. Learn about yeasts, how beer is made, the hardest part about being a beer maker, the thick history of beer, some home brewing tips and also a nugget about bungholes. Let's get yeasty.Special thanks to Shannon Feltus and Boni Dutch for the hook-up and the road trip to the coast.More episode sources and linksSponsors of OlogiesTranscripts and bleeped episodesSmologies (short, classroom-safe) episodesBecome a patron of Ologies for as little as a buck a monthOlogiesMerch.com has hats, shirts, masks, totes!Follow @Ologies on Twitter and InstagramFollow @AlieWard on Twitter and InstagramSound editing by Jarrett Sleeper of MindJam MediaTranscripts by Emily White of The WordaryWebsite by Kelly R. DwyerTheme song by Nick Thorburn
Transcript
Discussion (0)
Hi, it's July 20th, 2022, and this is an encore episode of an ology.
I personally love, I don't love beer actually, but I love this ology.
So it's a great and often overlooked episode, so I'm taking a week to plan your grandpods
burial and funeral and taking a little bit of a break.
I thought you might enjoy just a hot app about cold beers.
Get into it.
I love you.
Oh, hi.
Hi there.
It's your weird step-cousin, Ally Ward, rumbling up to the family barbecue in a trans-am and
offering you your first room temperature beer.
Are you ready to get yeasty?
Okay, good.
So this episode touches on something that is all over and inside you, devouring your
garbage, single-celled fungus that covers every surface of the planet, yeast.
It's also in beer, and I got a hot tip by being alive, that people like beer.
And so on a recent trip to Portland, I was very generously chauffeured through the woods
and to the shore on a road trip by the wonderful sister duo and my own personal merch queens,
Shannon Feltas and Bonnie Dutch, and they had an inn at Rogue Brewery in Newport, Oregon.
I got a tour and I sat down to chat with a microbiologist and food scientist about
zymology, the study and science and practice of fermentation people, which is how you take
a sack of grain and water and turn it into dad's wash-away-the-work-day elixir.
Now before I take you on a quick tour, I want to confess two things.
Number one, I used to pour beer on myself as a child in the shower.
More on that in a minute.
Number two, I read all your reviews on iTunes and I silently thank each and every one of
you.
So this podcast is 100% independently made.
A lot of people, I guess, didn't know that.
So listeners pay to keep it going through life-sustaining Patreon donations at patreon.com slash oligies
and also by buying merch at oligiesmerch.com and also for supporting for free by rating
and reviewing and subscribing on iTunes, which boosts it in the charts.
It helps the podcast get seen by other people.
So we've remained in the top 30 or so science podcasts totally independently on iTunes since
September.
And last week, oligies broke its own download record.
It truly means the world to me and this project is my favorite thing I've ever worked on.
So I love that you guys love the show and are spreading the word.
So each week I read a snippet of a review that really made my day and at least 1021
said, I love this podcast so much.
Some episodes I start listening to and have no interest in the topic and by the end I'm
so fascinated and intrigued.
For example, I almost skipped ichthyology because fish, who cares?
And that was my favorite episode to date.
Okay, back to zymology.
So the word comes from the Greek naturally for the workings of fermentation.
It's pretty straightforward, zymote.
And Louis Pasteur was the first zymologist.
He was the first person to get the yeasts we're making fermentation happen.
Oh, also the reason I showered myself in course as a child is because beer was supposed to
make hair shiny and I had llama hair and even my parents were like, sure, man, try it.
Do whatever you got to do.
And it didn't work.
And to be honest, I've never really loved beer, but I have mad respect for the craft
of it and the bubbly ichthy science of it.
And I'm fascinated by the history and the role that beer plays in good old American
culture.
So I visited this brewery to find out how beer is made in both small and big scale batches
and to chat with someone who's truly deeply knowledgeable about tiny funguses.
So amid some forklift, beeping and tasting room hollering in the background, we walked
through a maze of like these 20 foot metal tanks, storing and fermenting beers.
That's a lot of brusquies, dude.
We learned some basics.
I don't know how familiar you are with home brewing.
No, none.
Zero.
That's basically all the CO2 blow off.
So is it fermenting?
Oh.
It's bubbling out?
So that's where it burps and farts?
Yeah, pretty much.
I sniffed some yeasts.
Got some ripe business.
And I learned that the staff of this brewery gets to pick their own titles.
So I was told this by a guy named Jake, who is technically Rogue's level 10 spirits wizard.
It's on his business card.
He showed me a warehouse of aging whiskies and charred oak barrels.
And we won't get into that much in this episode, but I will leave you with a takeaway from
him that the opening of a barrel of aging spirits is called the bunghole.
And they smell delicious.
I wanted a scented candle in the flavor of bunghole.
Then our group checked out the yeast lab and sat down to a very mellow tasting.
Am I going to get blitzed or what?
Finally, we went in for the interview and talked about the history of cold ones and
how beer goes from a slurry of wet fungus in a bucket to a refreshing cool friend in
a bottle.
And the grossest things you can culture and make into beers.
There's some home brewing tips, some food science triumphs, and some early names for
light beer that just didn't quite cut it.
So get ready to tip back this refreshing episode with zymologist Quentin Sturgeon.
Well, my first name is John, actually, so I got my middle name.
Yeah, my full name is John Quinton Sturgeon.
It's not a weak name by any means.
No, it's not.
Tell me what your title is here.
QAQC manager or lead.
But my actual title is Minister of Truth.
Did you get to pick that?
It was, yeah.
But it was kind of given to me that you just don't have a filter.
So is it kind of like a tribal name where it's given to you based on your characteristics?
You know, most people pick themselves.
So it's like a self-given nickname.
And it wasn't I wasn't given to me.
Somebody actually mentioned it.
So every time you're wrong, does that really come back to bite you?
I just don't ever be wrong with no, no, of course.
It doesn't mean I'm correct.
It means I'm just telling the truth as best I know it.
Your truth.
My version of the truth, yes.
Now, tell me about your degrees.
What did you study?
How long did you study it?
Yeah, so my bachelor's was in food science at University of Idaho.
And then I made the epic eight mile track across state border to Washington state
and got a master's in food science.
What does that entail, getting a master's in food science?
A laborious project that includes everything from sensory to microbiology.
A lot of biochemistry.
I had a resurrection old HPLC.
What's an HPLC?
It's a high performance liquid chromatography machine.
So Quentin has two degrees in food science.
One a master's that involved analyzing amino acids in wine fermentation.
But he had a history with beer and began homebrewing at 19 in his fraternity's kitchen.
And he's a burly dude.
He's very Pacific Northwest.
He's like wearing a hoodie.
He's got a beard, those car hearts, pants and a battered ball cap.
And Quentin's worked in wheat genetics, cheese, wine, beer, kombucha, all involving,
in his words, one cell critters that nobody cares about.
But hello.
Hi.
If you like cheese and beer, you have to care about these critters.
They're so important.
So yeast are indeed single-celled fungi.
And it wasn't until the late 1800s after Louis Pasteur that we even knew that a living
organism, a fungus, was instrumental in brewing and baking bread.
And we put some shit under microscopes.
We were like, whoa, huh.
Well, why did you look at that?
Now, a common brewer's yeast to make ales in particular is a single round, smooth, flat cell.
And it's kind of a cream color.
It's called Sacromiasis servacea, something like that, which translates to sugar fungus
of beer.
So not unlike Minister of Truth, it's a good title.
So what is happening?
Can you walk me through what fermentation is?
Like just pretend I'm an alien that just landed on a spaceship.
And my first question is like, how do y'all make booze?
Yeah.
Well, basically you can chew something up and spit into a bucket or really it's the
conversion of sugar and starch.
Well, starch goes to sugar into ethanol and carbon dioxide.
And that is done by introducing a little tiny single cell critter.
Yep.
One cell little fungi and Sacromiasis.
And we'd like to use Sacromiasis servacea because it's more consistent and not nearly
as temperamental and pissy as all the other estrange.
So that's why you see that Sacromiasis servacea as the go to yeast.
Is that for wine and for beer?
Wine and beer, but they are different strains.
So how do you choose which strain to use?
So that's actually what I did after grad school.
That was 90% of my job was because there's all sorts of yeast vendors out there.
All these vendors have all this yeast.
You don't know what is sales and marketing and what's true.
Do you have to culture them and see what eats what and what the byproducts are and what
temperatures they can withstand?
Kind of.
And basically the best way to do it, if you're going to be doing like, I think I did 150
something strains when I was there and just over a year in triple kit with little bioreactors
that are temperature controlled, you take sterile juice and you dump in the exact amount
of yeast three times and then you ferment it and you track everything you can chemically
before and after enduring.
And then you try it at the end and basically that's it because you worked off the same
juice for all those use strains.
You've got the same baseline.
All right, this one was farty.
That one's awesome.
Farty is a term.
Is it really?
Yeah.
I didn't feel fine.
H2S.
Yeah.
It is a nasty.
It smells like fart.
And wait, do you use that term professionally?
Like this one?
I have.
It depends on how lax the panel would be.
Okay.
But yeah.
I mean, everything from rotten cabbage, sewer drain.
Oh yeah.
Sensory terms get fun.
Yeah.
And how do you...
How do you...
Baby vomit is one that...
Baby vomit is another...
When you're fermenting something and it smells like baby vomit or cabbage farts or whatever.
Are you making notes on smell and compounds?
Are you analyzing them through your own senses or a combination of chemical determinants and
your senses?
Both.
Okay.
So I mean, the human knows...
Unless you can relate it in sensory terms, it's useless.
Right.
You tell somebody, all right, cool.
You have X and X milligrams per liter of vanilla.
Well, vanilla is one that...
Okay, vanilla.
All right.
That's pretty simple.
You say isofluoric acid.
Yeah.
Yeah.
What the hell's that?
Yeah, exactly.
So that's just it.
Like, yeah.
Some of these terms, when they get just down to chemicals.
I don't know.
What the hell does that mean?
Or where did that come from?
How do I control it?
Is it a good or a bad thing?
It gets way too complex when you just do it on the chemistry.
So you focus it down into flavor buckets and just make it easy.
But sensory, your nose is still amazing.
And if you can train yourself to be as good of a machine as possible, setting yourself up
pretty well.
Isn't it weird how you smell something and it usually reminds you of your past in some
way?
Like, if you huff a perfume, you were freshman year of college, like, forget about it.
Like, you are a slave to nostalgia for the rest of the day.
So why is that?
Why does that happen?
So I looked it up and smell is linked intimately to parts of the brain that deal with emotion.
So you have an olfactory bulb that's part of the limbic system.
That includes the amygdala and the hippocampus of the brain.
Those also deal with memory, learning, and your emotions.
So in order to identify a smell, you may find that first you have to figure out what does
this remind me of before you can figure out what the smell is.
So humans have about 6 million olfactory receptors and scientists recently learned that we can
smell up to a trillion smells.
But your dog, see your dog over there?
Your dog has not 6 million, 300 million compared to our 6 million.
So every butt sniff is like Shakespeare to them.
I would now like you to imagine a dog in a lab coat because as a food scientist sniffing
stuff, in this case, yeast, super important, dogs would be excellent at this.
So when you applied for this particular job, did you come in saying, I have a lot of experience
testing yeast and they were like, we need you on our team?
I have enough jack of all trades background to be able to do something like this.
But yeah, a ton of lab and micro experience.
So it was like, cool, we can shove this guy in there and leave him alone.
What's your day-to-day job like?
Oh God, it is literally one-third microbiology, one-third chemistry, and one-third sensory.
And then trying to make sure we don't kill anybody by making beer or exploding bottles
and that kind of stuff.
So if you have the chemistry wrong, your bottles will explode?
Not so much the chemistry, the microbiology, because then you've got potential for secondary
fermentation.
So when you pop that top, you might shoot a cap into the ceiling, or it will just build
up so much pressure that the glass itself will shatter.
And then yeah, I mean, that's the worst, worst, worst case scenario.
I don't know if that's happening here.
So that's good.
Can you walk me through the basics of like, in an absolute nutshell, how is beer made?
So malt is the sugar source.
Our starch converts starch into sugars, which the yeast, which we then later add, chomps
up and converts through its own metabolism from glucose and sucrose and maltose into
ethanol and carbon dioxide.
So then you get basically, beer is yeast, farts and piss and other flavorings.
Okay.
How much do you already love this guy?
Now, I'm going to recap and give you some basics because I had to look this up after
our interview and after the tour because I still didn't get it.
I'm going to break it down.
You're about to understand how beer is made.
Are you ready?
You're never going to look at beer the same way again.
And next time you're at a barbecue and you have nothing to talk to anyone about, you
can just tell them this.
Okay, cool.
So grain like barley or wheat is malted and malted means it's germinated just a wee bit
and then it's kilned or heated and that stops the germination.
So doing that, germinating it and heating it breaks down some starch into sugar and
next it's milled or crushed so that the starches are more accessible and they're easily broken
down.
Water is then added and when it's added, it's called a mash, mashing.
It's added to this big tank called a mash ton and it's mixed with hot water and that activates
the enzymes in the grain that helps turn them from starch into sugar and it makes this syrupy
sweet liquid called wort.
And the wort is separated from all the solids left over in the grain in a process called
lottering.
So many terms.
So the wort is then boiled for a few hours which sterilizes it and hops are added giving
it some bitterness, some essential oils, some flavor and this mix is whirlpooled to collect
any solids and then it's cooled down.
And finally, after malting, milling, warding, mashing, after all of that, it's ready for
fungus.
It's fungus o'clock.
This is called pitching.
Now the cooled down wort, it's put in this big fermentor tank and yeast is added and it
ferments anywhere from a few days to a month depending on the beer and the type of yeast
will also determine if it's an ale or a lager.
I did not know that.
The fermentation really in the bulk of it actually happens in the first 72 hours but generally
we have tank times that range anywhere from 8 days to 20 plus days.
And there are hoses that run out the carbon dioxide and it sounds kind of like a rhino
farting in a bathtub.
That gurgle is very soothing.
And now you have beers, almost.
And then basically you remove the yeast if you want and so you get a clear product, a
more stable product because of all sorts of biochemistry, but it is much more stable
than it was before the yeast took effect and then carbonated up for some good mouthfeel
and fizz and there you go.
That's beer.
It is simple.
So you carbonated after the fact?
Yeah.
Yeah.
So a good portion of the carbonation will come from natural fermentation but not enough.
It's not that lively bubble pain, bubble break that you experience with beer where soda
has so much more carbonation because you do that.
That's a term, it's bubble pain and it's, you feel those like pop rocks, right, exploding
on your tongue?
Yeah.
That's the kind of thing.
As a person who is literally drinking a La Croix right now and trying not to burp into
the microphone, I was greatly enthused about bubble pain as a term and I looked it up giddily
and carbonation does thrill us because it triggers pain receptors on the tongue.
The same ones that respond to like wasabi.
Now some people hate carbonation because it just hurts, they're like, no, but I couldn't
find much mention of the specific term bubble pain.
I looked it up and I was like, I thought this was a term until I came across an article
about it but it was published by a researcher at Quentin's Alma Mater.
So it's possible that this term is super common to Quentin in the way that as in Northern
California I thought everyone said hella all the time.
And so you have to strain off the yeast when you're done fermenting it to where you want
it.
You use a centrifuge for that?
We use our centrifuge, yeah, to just get rid of it and it clarifies the crap out of
that beer.
More typical, you'll see a filter beforehand or after to really clarify it and we do pretty
well with our centrifuge and we just run with that.
What happens to the yeast once you're like, later days, thanks?
It goes into a tote and then into a dump vessel but that's not to say that we haven't pulled
off yeast before that and we will reuse that yeast over and over and so once we start with
a little bit it will grow and grow and grow many, many babies and we harvest that off
and use it again.
What does it look like?
Is it like a murky, I imagine something that looks like murky yellow whale blubber.
So you're holding up a bottle of beer so it's kind of that murky precipitate in there?
Yeah, it just looks muddy, murky and hazy.
It's kind of all sorts of no good.
And do different beers use different yeasts or do you use that one species and genus but
a different strain for say a log or IPA?
So yeah, we use anywhere from five to upwards of whatever test batches we're doing of random
idea beers, strains here at Rogue.
Pac-Man is the one we use by far and away.
It is a workhorse of a yeast.
It can just power through a huge amount of sugar but yeah, we definitely use them because
they do different things.
Some are more phenolic, more band-aid, more spice notes, some are more fruity.
Others are just clean and neutral and sometimes you want that.
It really depends on the style and what you're trying to go for in the finished product.
So Pac-Man is the name of a special proprietary strain that Rogue uses for a bunch of their
beers and it's supposed to be really robust and reliable.
People love this.
I looked online and some people try to use the dregs of other Rogue beers to culture
their own Pac-Man batch.
And one message board I looked at said this, Pac-Man is the most forgiving yeast ever.
I had to pitch some slurry that just finished a cider ferment as an emergency measure and
it still got like 80% attenuation in an all grain wort.
What?
Okay, so thanks to Quentin.
I kind of know what that jargon casserole of a sentence means.
So you can buy yeasts.
You can try to culture them from other beers or if you're like some wild animals you can
just wait for fruit to rot.
Evidently moose and elk eat fallen apples and they stumble around a bit.
They get a little crazy and some monkeys will eat fermented fruit and just lose it.
Elephants however seem to be apocryphal drinkers.
It's more legend than lit because it would take so much fruit to get them drunk.
But if you've ever brewed kombucha at home or wanted to, the yeast and bacteria form
this symbiotic colony.
It looks like a slimy pancake or a flap of skin from a dead stingray.
And essentially all you need to do is convince a hippie to give you some of their mother
slop and you dump it in a bucket of tea and sugar and boom a few weeks later you have
an expensive bucket of fizzy vinegar tea.
I've done this and it filled the void in my life where a pet or an alien in the cupboard
should be.
It tastes good but it looks like a nightmare.
Do you ever dream about yeast?
I haven't lately.
Do you have?
I have.
Yeah.
I mean I've got a stuffed yeast on my desk.
Yeah.
Yeah.
Yeah.
Yeasty.
He's a stuffed one million times size of a sacrumia cerevisia and he's got droopy little
eyes and he's got budding scars on the head.
Well I guess she.
I call them mother cells and daughter cells but yeah yeasty.
When I was separated, we're not separated but my wife was cross country.
I was interning in California and she was working in New York.
I sent that to her as a care package and she kept it and held it like every night which
you know seems really really weird.
I guess I'm just that level of nerd but I did propose to her after we saw each other
that summer so.
Really?
Yeah.
Yeah.
It was part of your wooing.
You're like here's a stuffed yeast.
Think about me.
Yeah.
That's cute.
Thinking about it that's kind of weird.
No it's adorable.
Did you grow things and culture things when you were a kid?
What kind of kid were you?
No.
I definitely had a microscope but I was kind of like well these are like really funny
names and hard to remember.
All that interested is to be honest I don't know.
I didn't know what the hell I wanted to do going in well in high school.
I don't know.
I mowed lawns.
I mean I paid for my undergrad by mowing lawns.
Did you really?
Oh yeah.
I was like 11 years old.
My dad was like hey you're gonna pay for college.
So right there it says two things aside.
Number one I'm going to college.
That's not an option to not and I was gonna pay for it.
So all right cool.
11 year old walks across the street starting to mow in lawn.
Where did you put all the money into a banking account?
Yeah.
Yeah.
Just straight savings and yeah.
It was kind of crazy.
Are your parents proud of what you do?
I think so.
That sound in the background is a level 10 spirits wizard cackling at Quentin.
Yeah.
Your buddy is laughing at you.
I don't know.
I haven't heard like we're proud of you son.
You get everyone drunk.
Make the world a better place.
I'm so proud of you.
But you have a laboratory.
I do.
I do.
And a masters.
And a masters degree.
Yeah.
I mean I don't think they have anything to do.
I think they're more proud of the grandkids I've given them.
Did your wife wish that she could just butt off a baby like a yeast?
Yeah.
The pregnancy was rough.
Yeah.
It wasn't fun.
Shannon's deliberately like a champ.
Oh yeah?
Oh yeah.
Like poster child.
But no, pregnancy was rough.
Yeah.
It was beer helpful afterward.
Some beers.
She's not a big drinker.
She's not.
Your wife is not a big drinker.
She's not a big drinker.
When she does it's more the sour tart stuff which I mean she can peel and eat a lemon.
I know.
That's the face I make when she does it.
It's like it's unbelievable.
Good God.
I just hear your enamel screaming.
But no.
We started making a Paradise Pucker which is a sour base and she loves that beer.
But she's just not a huge drinker.
So yeah.
Where are you?
I know.
Right?
I'm going to ask you some questions from listeners.
Is that cool?
Yeah.
Okay.
Because there's approximately one million of them.
This is a rapid fire round.
But before your questions let's toss back some money to a charity of theologist choosing
and this week it's going to the Rogue Foundation which since its inception has donated millions
of dollars to charity including acts like donating all the Juneteenth pump sales to
the coalition of communities of color.
They donated beer to Project Pooch and the Oregon Zoo and the Newport Symphony.
They renovated a skate park in Poulsen, Montana where I happen to have many relatives.
Hey Poulsen.
And Rogue Foundation has also sponsored Beach and Riverside Cleanups and a bunch more.
So we will make a donation to them thanks to sponsors of the show which you may hear
about now.
Okay.
Your curiosity is a ruin.
Greg wants to know any secret yeasts that might make for better fermenting beers?
Try everything you can from wherever you can get it.
There's a lot at places at home brew stores.
Or try culturing your own.
See what's growing out.
Yeah.
See what happens.
What's the worst?
You just make a terrible batch of beer and then you dump it, clean everything and start
over.
Well, how do you know that you even have yeast?
You just put the wort out and see what happens?
Well, there are a couple of steps.
You can easily get the stuff to get your own Peter dish set up and just start culturing.
I mean, you can be into it for less than 50 bucks.
Whoa.
Yeah.
I mean, you just need a couple of glassware and you just make a small little batch of
wort, set it out in an orchard or something like that and throw it on some dishes.
There's some technique to it, but it's not impossible.
Wow.
DIY yeast.
It's a thing.
Bob Ogden wants to know, when and where did hops come from in brewing?
Are hops used for any other purpose?
Do we even use hops?
What are hops doing on the rest of the time?
Good question.
Well, I guess they're kind of an offshoot of hemp.
And so I believe they were at one point used for rope along those lines.
They're also like a subset of like pot.
Really?
I think they're somehow related to marijuana, but I don't, you're gonna have to fact check
me on that one.
So hops, aka humulus lupulus, I think that's what they're called.
And marijuana are indeed related, but instead of getting you all stony baloney, hops were
cultivated for use in beer as early as the 9th century because they have these acids
and essential oils that prevent spoilage.
They also give beer that traditional bitter taste that a lot of people who are not me
like.
And now an okay time to tell you I've never finished a beer.
Maybe once I finished a beer, I've started a lot of beers, but I really appreciate the
craftsmanship.
Adrian McNichols wants to know, is it true that stouts and porter are good sources of
dietary item, i.e. is my beer health food?
There was a guy who lived off nothing but Guinness for a month.
And it's totally doable, yeah, especially unfiltered because you have the pro and prebiotics of
yeast.
Okay.
People have done it.
It's got a ton of nutrients in there.
It's got to be doing something weird to your system after a while.
Did he take a sabbatical from pooping?
What was the deal there?
I don't know.
I don't know.
I was like, you're on a juice diet.
You're not getting a lot of fiber that way.
Yeah, that's a good point.
It was all pure liquid.
Interesting.
Who was this guy?
Was this someone you knew?
Or was there a guy?
Oh, no.
This is not Larry from my freshman year.
No.
I've heard this.
This is like, I don't know.
It's a thing.
Oh, find him.
I'll look it up.
Okay.
So the Guinness diet is a thing.
And though I found accounts of one super devout Christian slash beer lover giving up food
in favor of beer for 40 days of Lent, I guess he was inspired by monks, he did not seem
to be drinking Guinness per se.
So with a Guinness diet, with a stout, you'd need to drink 47 pints of Guinness a day to
get your caloric needs met.
This was calculated by a 170-pound dude who tried it.
Plus, to fulfill your daily nutritional requirements, you would need to drink a glass of orange
juice for vitamin C and two glasses of milk for calcium.
So I looked up records of people who have tried this, and one account, which ran in
a newspaper article in the Sonoma Sun, contained a diary from which I will read an excerpt.
Day three.
At one point, after enough people told me that I look like I'm dying, it all became
clear.
I know what hell is.
It's a giant party where you can drink all the Guinness you want, but only your friends
can eat the delicious feast, and they will laugh at you, and they will constantly make
comments like, you look like you're dying.
Another man tried the Guinness diet and reported that after having a couple of lunch beers,
quote, my stomach was starting to make noises comparable to the dragons on Game of Thrones.
Now it should be noted that both dudes who wrote their trials up of this broke down around
day four or five and ravenously purchased and bought candy bars.
One was a Snickers and one was a Mars bar.
So unless you are deeply alcoholic or religious, you may want to just do, like, slim fast or
step up the cardio, buddy.
Caitlin Thomas wants to know, why does beer have to have so many carbs?
Well, that's the whole idea between that light and beer, right?
You're trying to get those carbs out.
It's just a matter of what you use as your sugar source and what's going to be left over
the yeast is not going to consume.
And so it's one of those factors.
If you want to have less carbs in your beer, you got to use a yeast strain and set it up
that it's going to ferment out pretty dry.
But at the same time, carbs are a complete balance of all the other flavors.
So without carbs, you're just going to have a boozy, watered down, unbalanced hot mess.
Yeah, like, that is totally...
They're necessary.
They're necessary.
I mean, it's the sugar.
It's all the sweet and a lot of the multi-biscuit flavor, it's all from the malt and the carbs.
Do light beers, have they been fermenting longer or do they just add water to a regular
beer?
It's a different sugar source, so it ferments out cleaner and so you end up having just
more ethanol and more CO2, so it's more efficiently converted.
Okay.
I mean, there's a lot of other technology into it.
But I mean, so that's why it was a big thing when it hit the market.
I think Millerlite was the first one.
I said, yeah, like I knew what he was talking about, but I did not know.
However, after doing some light googling, I have learned that this beer, Millerlite,
was invented in 1967 but was originally called Gabblinger's Diet Beer.
So they tweaked the marketing because, I mean...
It was pretty revolutionary to actually be able to have a beer around a hundred calories.
Right.
I love it like, Michelobes Ultras, like, if you like CrossFit and beer.
You're like, okay.
It's like, no.
I'm sorry.
You don't exist.
Brittany Cressera wants to know, what ingredient is it that makes the yeast occasionally go
seemingly crazy and foam up and explode during first fermentation?
Asking for a friend.
Also, do you have any tips for new brewers or book recommendations?
Yeah.
So that explosive early fermentation, we have it.
I mean, we'll blow over our tubs and we use 55-gallon drums as our blow off.
But it depends largely on how much protein was in the initial fermentation and then how
much yeast they added.
And if they added just too much, your fermentation just went crazy.
And that yeast is just really, really, really active.
So there's a couple ways to get around that is get a bigger vessel, so all that foam breaks
off or just stays in the vessel, or don't add as much yeast, or keep it in a bathtub
with some ice.
Chill it down.
Because, I mean, during fermentation, there's a lot of heat generated as well.
So you have to chill that down.
Otherwise, it will just run off and go real fast.
Is it better to homebrew if you're new at it during the winter months than in the summer?
If you've got an inkling to do it at all, just do it.
But I mean, as far as going back to the tips for homebrew sanitation, you've got to be
clean.
And if you think you're clean, do it again.
I've had so much bad homebrew because they didn't clean something properly.
Or they, oh, no, I just ran bleach through it.
No?
That's a no.
You're shaking back.
Well, it's just not enough.
I mean, you got to do it right.
What happens if you don't brew it clean?
Does it start to, does a wrong thing ferment?
Does it smell skunky?
Okay.
So you set yourself up for any and everything to have access to all that sugar, all those
free amino acids, and they're going to go crazy.
And so that's why Sacromycesia was started to use because it's such an active fermenter.
It'll just attack and it'll drive out and out compete most other things.
So that's why it's really, really beneficial to use a good, healthy yeast.
But sanitation, yeah, it's kind of key because you don't want like an acetylbacter.
A what?
Acetylbacter makes acetic acid.
Oh.
Which is vinegar.
Yeah.
Or like a lactic acid bacteria or pediacoccus, which makes lactic acid, which is not as tart,
but it still will ruin a beer.
And it's like sour milk is lactic.
Pediacoccus?
It's pediacoccus.
It's on my shit list.
Get out of here, pediacoccus.
It's on mine too.
Yeah.
Are you clean at home?
Are you a neat, freaking home?
Or are you like hot?
I'm not.
No.
I like the worst is the kitchen sink.
And my wife will rip, and she does, totally rip me anyone, and it is the dirtiest place
in your house.
Oh, say it isn't so.
No.
Oh.
Okay.
So I have often heard and feared this about kitchen sinks, and I had to look it up well.
And according to Dr. Charles Gerba, one microbiologist who's been studying invisible American
domestic filth for decades, your sink and sponge are like Bonnaroo, a witch's brew of
fecal bacteria, protozoans, and viruses.
So he says that the cleanest looking kitchens are often the dirtiest because clean people
wipe up so frequently, it's like painting a swath of bacteria, like Bob Ross laying
down the background of a gorgeous landscape.
Now, amusingly, some of the cleanest kitchens Dr. Gerba claims are in the homes of bachelors
who rarely wipe up their countertops.
He says, in most cases, it's safer to make a salad on a toilet seat than it is to make
one on a cutting board.
What are we supposed to do?
Well, you can either microwave your sponge for a few minutes and kill all that stuff,
or you can survive off beer and snickers.
I'm going to leave it up to you.
But in your lab?
I'm in the lab.
Yeah, that's a completely different story.
So I get all my neat freak out of my system here, and then go home and just like a slob.
Oh, God, that would drive me crazy, because it's be like, I know you have a master's
in science.
Like, I know you know how to wash these dishes.
Megan Gerard wants to know, I heard that we have found ancient civilizations had beer
recipes.
Do we know if that was because they couldn't prevent it, like there was no refrigeration?
Or do they do it on purpose?
Are they any good?
Ancient beer, I understand, was because the water was so disgusting that they're like,
we got to have this stuff that has alcohol in it so we can kill the bacteria.
Is that correct?
Yeah.
I mean, I actually do really, you help yourself out from killing things like endobacter e.coli.
Side note, them bacteria is poo.
That kind of stuff, because it can't survive in that low pH, can't survive with a little
bit of alcohol in there.
Hops were added way after the fact.
I mean, we're talking beer, 4,000 years old, at least.
We haven't known what the hell we were doing, except until past year came by.
And I'm like, oh, wait, no, this is not just God blessing you with this alcohol.
It's no, it's yeast.
It's yeast, piss and farts.
That's what you get.
A little tiny, single cell farted bitch.
But I don't know, I have heard of some people trying to recreate really ancient beers and
then kind of being so-so, but you're also kind of like, I don't really know how they
did it.
Okay.
So a little beer history.
It could have been invented up to 10,000 years ago when agriculture was first starting
out around Mesopotamia.
And bread yeasts were fermented into this drinkable, potable, I guess I use that loosely, concoction.
So early beers were often really thick, like more of a gruel, like a soupy oatmeal.
And drinking straws were used so that you wouldn't get the chunky bits.
How gross is that?
According to Wikipedia, though, in ancient Mesopotamia, the majority of brewers were
probably ladies.
Brewing was a fairly well-respected occupation during the time.
And then at some point it became less chunky and, I guess, more manly from a societal standpoint.
Brian Edge wants to know, is it true that there's a hops shortage or an impending one?
And if so, what effect would that have on the brewing industry?
There certainly was.
I think, was it Yakima, six, 10 years ago, somewhere in that range?
One warehouse had, I think, one-third of the entire United States hop harvest in just the
one building and it burnt down.
Oh my God!
So overnight, everyone's scrambling and hosed.
Yeah, so that immediately bumped beer prices up and they just have never really gone down.
How insane is that?
Okay, well, evidently, it happened again just this past December in another hops warehouse
in Yakima.
Now, before you open up your own arson investigation detective agency, apparently these things
just happen.
Acids in the hops break down and the hops heat up to the point where they just burst into
flames.
So things like this are why beer can cost you some money.
Is it cheaper to brew your own beer?
Yeah, totally.
It depends on what you throw into it.
If you're throwing in rice syrup solids as your base fermentable, that's fairly cheap.
But you're not going to get a lot of flavor out of that.
And so you get what you pay for and you get what you pay to put into it, too.
PJ Anderer wants to know, what's happening to a beer when I bury it in my yard and wait
to drink it for several years?
It's probably not going to taste all that good.
Okay.
Just because the aging cycle, it's not good.
Time is not good to beer.
Okay.
There's a couple of places that on the label is best yesterday, which is totally true.
I mean, the best way to have the best beer is keep it cold and drink it fast.
I mean, some beers are meant to age like a barley wine.
So I did not know what barley wine was.
I pretended to during the interview, but I just looked it up and it's technically a
beer.
It has such a high alcohol concentration, like eight to 12% that it's called a wine.
So barley wine, it's barley wine.
Aaron We did a flight of barley wine, our old crusty.
I think the oldest bottle we opened was 20 years old and we jumped every four years.
So good.
It was so good.
PJ But that's on purpose.
Aaron That's on purpose.
That was totally on purpose.
Yeah.
Yeah.
If you bury it in your yard, you're going to have incredible temperature fluctuations.
If it freezes, come on, just shatter that bottle.
PJ Oh, that's a good point.
Aaron Yeah.
So that would be my concern on that one.
PJ All right.
So no buried treasure.
Aaron Yeah.
PJ Jude, Kenny wants to know, is there a particular region in the U.S. that's favorable for open
fermentation?
Like, are there better airborne yeast in certain regions?
Aaron No.
Well, yeah, it depends on what is around you.
I mean, if you're by orchards and a lot of agriculture, there's just a lot more stuff
on those leaves, especially yeast.
So, I mean, if you're near a vineyard, there's a ton of yeast that lives outside of grapes
on the surface of them.
That stuff's going to get flown off in the wind.
So you got a better chance of at least getting a yeast, but-
PJ Capturing good ones?
Aaron Yeah.
Well, also bad ones.
So that's a mixed bag.
PJ Oh, that's risky.
Aaron It is super risky.
I mean, open fermentations are very, they're just risky because you don't know what you're
going to get.
And you're also going to get a lot of bacteria.
PJ Okay.
Quick aside.
In 2013, Rogue Brewery was looking to make a beer with a wild yeast and they tried some
open fermentations and some nearby orchards, but didn't come up with much.
They were like, huh?
So it's a semi-joke.
They tried to culture some yeast using 12 beard hairs of their brewmaster.
This wild yeast, the wildest of yeasts really ended up being a pretty good fit to culture
and genetically they found out it was a hybrid between the brewery's Pac-Man yeast and some
new strain.
So they made a beer out of it.
They put the beer on the market and people liked it, saying it had a sweet, bready, pineapple-y
and oddly olive-like notes.
So the idiom to get a wild hair will never be the same to me, but you can open, ferment
or try wild strains.
It just might not be for beginners.
Is it better to get a kit and try to culture something and see what happens?
Aaron It is.
Definitely if you're just getting started by something that's already cultured and that
way you can't really screw it up.
You can.
Start slow.
But yeah, get into it and then to culture your own yeast, that's like just jumping in.
That's a couple steps.
But in general, near and orchard would be a good place for fermentation.
Carrie Stewart wants to know, do craft brewers maintain their own hops and yeast strains
like proprietary blends or are they sourdough starters that get passed around and shared
among other brewers?
So you can buy Pac-Man.
Aaron Pac-Man?
Yeah, you can actually go buy the yeast that we use from the majority of our beers and
use it in a homebrew.
Yeah, but it is like something that we definitely use.
Others, I think the beard was the only one that was proprietary.
We don't do that here, but a lot of breweries will.
They will make their own yeast and keep it completely in-house.
They'll go from frozen culture all the way to pitch and use that and never have to buy
yeast from anywhere else.
So remember, to pitch just means to add yeast.
This is so many terms.
But now you can throw them around like you know what they mean.
Old word over here will not blow your cover.
Sarah Nischel Welch wants to know, why do beers have different percentages of alcohol
to them?
Different styles, it's appropriate and it will match better with the flavor and profile
the balance of it.
So some will have a little bit more malt and that can handle a little more alcohol or
a little more sugar.
That can handle more alcohol.
It does change up the mouth feel as well.
And then, so mouth feel is the viscosity and bubble pain is the carbonation.
Yeah.
These are good terms.
Any other weird terms that I should know about?
Oh, let's see.
Drinkability.
What the hell does that mean?
Exactly.
So that's why I had to take it off the sensory form because everyone kept like, well yeah,
I could pound six of these.
That's not what that means.
So drinkability does not mean poundability, but rather what is the arc of the beer when
you first take a sip and then when it warms up a little on your tongue and then the lingering
aftertaste.
And is it all good?
Great.
That's drinkability.
Also, while editing this, I started to imagine that Quentin was a muppet.
I think his voice learns itself well to muppetness.
Just picture it.
He has a high degree of listenability.
When you're having to test beers for your job, are you spitting them or are you getting
hammered at two in the afternoon for a while?
Well, good call on the time.
That's actually when we do it.
No, we only give two ounces and six samples, eight samples at max.
So at most you've got 10 ounces and you're not getting hammered.
Okay.
No, I mean, nobody walks around here annihilated afterwards.
And there's always spit cups.
You always have to give spit cups just in case.
Just in case.
Someone wants to.
Just in case.
Seems insulting.
Stefan Titus wants to know, how do you keep your records organized and are you a naturally
organized person?
I don't want to talk about your cleanliness, but how do you do you have log books happening?
So how do you keep track of millions of yeast pets or I guess livestock if you want to look
at them that way?
Yeah, no.
So it's, it depends on every company does a little different.
We're still on the Excel paper and we definitely want to get away from that as soon as possible
because it is kind of a nightmare of this Excel file, they build this and yada, yada.
I mean, Excel is great for what it does.
It's not a good database.
Yeah.
It can't handle a lot of data.
Database is on your Christmas list.
Lab information management system is on my wish list.
Caitlin Plate wants to know, are food scientists common to find working in breweries or is
it still overrun by a lot of engineers?
She's a future food scientist who would love a job at a brewery.
Fishing.
Smiley face.
You know, actually there's more and more universities actually coming out with specific
brewing programs.
Oh.
Yeah.
When I was going to undergrad, I really wasn't thinking of brewing right off the gate.
I was thinking of med school and then I realized I didn't like people that much.
And then I was like, all right, what am I going to do with a microbiology degree?
And so I hopped into food science because I just, you can be an ice cream scientist.
Come on.
You can do that?
Hell yeah.
Somebody's got to do that.
Actually ice cream is really complex as a food base.
It is a good jack of all trades degree is to do food science.
You've got physics, microbiology, chemistry and just in a lot of sensory.
So you can kind of walk in and to anywhere.
This is a good question about selecting a beer.
Becca wants to know with a vast number of beers these days, how do I navigate them all?
My BF, either best friend or boyfriend, and I were talking last night and he said there
are too many beers.
So much is good that nothing is standing out anymore.
So how does one make choices in this oversaturated market of local breweries, micro breweries
and limited editions, too much of a good thing?
What's to be done?
Pick a brewery.
Oh.
Just stick there.
Yeah.
Rogue has everything you need.
Getting aside, both Jake and Quentin essentially say, try to fund the local guys.
That's one angle.
Two more questions.
What do you hate about your job or your life or brewing or yeast or is there a certain
moment of your day or is there a thing you're fuck this?
Yeah.
There's one moment.
Every damn morning when I show up and I have to open the incubator and look at those
peacher dishes.
We got anything?
Yeah.
Yeah.
I hope not.
I mean, it really basically the way I set up the quality program, it's if something grows,
it probably shouldn't have been there unless it was the yeast we were looking for.
And that's when we were making the bearded yeast or bearded beer.
That bastard, it was technically a wild yeast.
And so it was resistant to all the plates I would put it on.
If I didn't know exactly what it looked like, that crusty little bastard, I would have a
freak out.
Like a conifption fit.
Like we've got a wild yeast and it's gone through the package line and oh my God, every
gasket in the building is going to have to be completely replaced and we're going to
be shut down for weeks.
And I'd have that little moment.
By the time something grows on a peacher dish, it could be in North Carolina.
So for quality control, which is a huge part of Quentin's job, he has to keep reference
samples of every batch that goes into a bottle or can so he can verify in case they do have
an issue with one.
So they have an area of the brewery that's like a library of beers and they have samples
of a bunch of recent brews in the lab.
So when you open up that thing, you're just hoping it's like anxiety.
Yeah, I don't want to smell anything funky.
That's for damn sure.
One of the things that might be funky is something called four ethylphenol, which is
created by a spoilage yeast.
What's that sound like?
Poop.
Okay.
Yeah.
It's like straight poop.
There's so many reasons why you don't want to smell that in the morning.
Or baby vomit or um, proetanomyces is a really, really bad one because it's just a bugger
to get rid of if we ever had it.
It's horse blanket and Band-Aid and barnyard.
Oh.
Yeah.
It's a whole bunch of bad.
And it has shut down wineries.
So I mean, there's a hit list of crap I don't want to ever see in this brewery.
That's one of them.
Yeah.
It's on my shit list.
What's the best part of your job?
The complete randomness of the day.
Well, I mean, I've got it structured.
So when it is danned out, like, that's really, really awesome, but I never know what new
project can throw at me.
So I get pulled in all sorts of different directions and I kind of have to be the master
of all around here.
I think what it's trying to say that he likes the variety, even though it's part.
I asked the level 10 spirits wizard, Jake Holshue, and he said that the coolest thing
about being a distiller is when he hosts a cocktail event or a whiskey release and he
gets to see a whole room of people enjoying themselves as part of the fruits of his labor.
Or I guess the spoiled fruits of his labor put in a good way.
He says that's more rewarding for me than drinking himself.
Although Jake also referenced that meme, this is what my friends think I do.
This is what my parents think I do.
This is what I actually do.
And he says what he actually does is clean.
He says, whenever you look at brewing or distilling, controlling yeast and bacterial growth is
so important that brewers are almost just glorified dishwashers.
I'm going to quote him directly.
He said, I mean, we just clean, clean, clean, clean, clean, sanitize, clean.
And then we clean, then we sanitize, and clean, and then we sanitize.
Quentin of course echoed this fact of zymology.
Something like, I don't know if you're aware of this, but 90% of a brewer's job is cleaning
stuff.
I just heard that.
It is.
Totally true.
Industry-wide turnover is pretty high because everyone's like, I'm going to work at a brewery
and I'm going to make beer.
So, I mean, somebody's got to clean those kegs, somebody's got to make the cardboard box.
And otherwise, the whole thing collapses.
And so you can never complain about working too hard because somebody else is doing another
really hard job, especially around here because, yeah, yeah, you are cleaning stuff.
You're removing stuff.
You're lifting kegs.
You're not just kicking back on a porch, drinking beer all day.
If you had any advice for someone who wants to be a professional brewer or professional
food scientist in general, what's the most important piece?
And then I'll let you go since I've been asking you 1 million questions.
Last week I was here 15 hours on Friday, so don't worry about it, is get into a lab or
get into whatever you think you're going to do as soon as possible.
Find out what your passion is.
Get involved as soon as possible.
Will you ever call yourself a zymologist?
I think you should start.
I don't know.
You can call yourself the minister of truth or wizard, but a zymologist is a stretch.
I don't know.
Well, you're the most knowledgeable zymologist I've ever met, so cheers to that.
Thank you so much for being on.
No, no, no.
I'm glad we can nerd out.
Cheers to yeast.
Yeah, absolutely.
And everything else in there.
Don't say that.
To see photos of me and Quentin Sturgeon, you can head to my Instagram at oligies.
The podcast is also on Twitter at oligies, and I'm on both as Ali Ward with 1L.
Thank you so much to Shannon Feltis and Bonnie Dutch again for hooking this interview up
and driving me to Newport and hanging out and getting Dutch Brothers Coffee and Burgers
and to Jay Colchew and Quentin Sturgeon for the fungus chats and the really memorable
we'll never forget tour.
Thank you also to everyone for supporting on Patreon.
Again, it's an independent podcast, and you can become a patron for as little as 25 cents
an episode, and you can have your questions asked to theologists.
You can also support the podcast by getting yourself some oligies merch, like some awesome
shirts and hats and totes and pins.
That's at oligiesmerch.com.
You can join up with other oligites in the Facebook group.
Thank you to Ernie for admitting, and thank you as always to Stephen Ray Morris for doing
a bang up job editing as I record these asides several days later than usual because I was
traveling for a family emergency and my folks were stuck in a bit of a blizzard up north
and I got hella behind.
Thank you again so much for listening.
If you like the podcast, you can always support for free by rating and reviewing on iTunes
that helps so much.
And as a thank you for sticking it through to the credits, I usually reward you with
one heinous secret from my life, and I'm going to tell you two.
Number one, I love eating smoked oysters from a can.
I think they're good.
I love them.
And two, the last few houses and apartments I've lived in.
I've written notes and I've tucked them into hidden places and I always wonder when someone
will find them.
And I hope at least like a decade goes by because if you find like a two month old
wistful farewell note, it's this kind of embarrassing.
If you're pulling away the moving truck and like the new tenant finds this like, it's
the year 2018 and I used to live here, note like with still wet ink tucked behind a cupboard.
That's just embarrassing.
But I do wonder if anyone's found any of the notes I've hidden in any of the apartments
or houses I've lived in.
And I also wonder if there are any notes lurking behind any weird floorboards around me right
now.
Wasn't that weird?
Have you ever done that?
Anyway, and this is now 2020 to me.
I'm just popping back in to say thank you for listening to these encores as I grieve
and get through funeral planning for my dad, who once building us a house when we lived
in Tahoe wrote a note that he hid on a board in a wall.
And in 2019, my sister Janelle happened to take a day trip, happened to see that they
were remodeling that house and happened to talk to the owner outside who had found the
board like a week or so before and saved it.
So he gave her the board and for my parents 50th wedding anniversary in 2019, my sister
gifted them that like a time capsule from their past.
We all freaked out and we cried a lot.
And my parents were actually building a small cottage in my sister's yard to live out their
their final days this past few months.
And it's due to be finished in a few weeks.
And my dad's goal was to sit on the deck and drink a glass of wine before he passed away
and he almost made it.
But we're going to be hanging that board that my sister found somewhere in the cottage.
So I guess I got a thing for hanging notes or hiding notes in places.
Thank you all so much for the critter picks for grandpods.
And I hope you're out there having a tiny ice cream and enjoying the day.
Okay.
Bye-bye.
Okay.
Bye-bye.