Rich Habits Podcast - Q&A: UPRO vs. VOO, Short-Term Rental Arbitrage, & Covered Calls in an Emergency Fund
Episode Date: October 31, 2024In this week's episode of the Rich Habits Podcast, Austin Hankwitz and Robert Croak answer your questions!---🔥 Lock in your 6% or higher rate using a Public Bond Account! Act ...fast to lock in a higher rate before the Fed cuts them even lower! ---🚀 Sign up for the Rich Habits Network so you don't miss out on the next big investment opportunity, click here!---⭐ Download our FREE Budgeting Template – click here⭐ Earn 5.1% on your savings with a High-Yield Cash Account – click here⭐ Trade stocks, options, music royalties and crypto on Public – click here⭐ Automatically buy stock where you shop with Grifin – click here⭐ Protect your family with term life insurance from Suriance – click here⭐ Use code “Spotify” for 15% off our 4-module video course – click here⭐ Optimize your portfolio with Seeking Alpha – click here---👤 Explore everything Austin does – click here 👤 Explore everything Robert does – click here❓ Ask us questions for our Q&A episodes – @richhabitspodcast on Instagram📬 Inquire about working together – christian@witz.vc---Disclosure: A Bond Account is a self-directed brokerage account with Public Investing, member FINRA/SIPC. Deposits into this account are used to purchase 10 investment-grade and high-yield bonds. As of 10/31/24, the average, annualized yield to worst (YTW) across the Bond Account is greater than 6%. A bond’s yield is a function of its market price, which can fluctuate; therefore, a bond’s YTW is not “locked in” until the bond is purchased, and your yield at time of purchase may be different from the yield shown here. The “locked in” YTW is not guaranteed; you may receive less than the YTW of the bonds in the Bond Account if you sell any of the bonds before maturity or if the issuer defaults on the bond. Public Investing charges a markup on each bond trade. See our Fee Schedule. Bond Accounts are not recommendations of individual bonds or default allocations. The bonds in the Bond Account have not been selected based on your needs or risk profile. See https://public.com/disclosures/bond-account to learn more.Hankwitz Group LLC has an existing business relationship with NEOS Investment Management LLC. The opinions expressed are those of the author, and the author owns several NEOS ETFs.
Transcript
Discussion (0)
Hey everyone and welcome back to the Rich Habits podcast, a top 10 business podcast on Spotify.
This is our question and answer edition episodes.
They come out every Thursday.
Today is not just a day that our episode comes out, but it's also Halloween.
So happy Halloween to everyone listening.
I decided to dress up as a football player and Robert decided to dress up as a multi-millionaire,
Uber successful entrepreneur by the name of Robert Croke.
So I think he did a pretty good job.
What do you think, Robert?
I love it.
Yes.
I'm so sorry I did not have anything here in Florida for a costume, even went to a couple
stores.
They didn't really have anything left.
So this is what you get.
You get the real me.
But just a quick heads up, folks.
Interest rates are falling.
But you can still lock in 6% or higher yield with a bond account at public.com.
That's a pretty big deal because when rates drop, so can the interest you earn on your
investment.
Robert, I'm right there with you.
A bond account allows you to lock in a 6% or higher yield with a diversity.
portfolio of high return and investment-grade corporate bonds. So while other people are watching
their returns shrink as the Fed continues to cut interest rates, you can sit back with regular
interest payments. Yes, but you might want to act fast because your yield is not locked in
until you invest. The good news, it only takes a couple minutes to sign up at public.com and lock
in that 6% or higher yield with a bond account, only at public.com forward slash rich habits.
This was brought to you by public investing. They are a member of FINRA and SIPC. These numbers are as of October 28th,
2024. The average annualized yield to worst across the bond account is greater than 6%. The yield to worse is not
guaranteed. This is not an investment recommendation. All investing involves risk. Please visit
public.com slash disclosures slash bond dash account for more information about those risks.
All right, Robert, I'm really excited about this Q&A episode. We've got literally, I think,
seven or eight questions teed up here. And they're not just from the rich habits network.
which, by the way, is the easiest way to get your questions answered, right?
We have over 485 people inside of the Rich Habits Network right now,
sending us DMs, joining our weekly live streams,
watching the four hours of video coursework that we've created for them,
adding continual modules over time.
There's a ton of cool reasons why you should join the Rich Habits Network,
and if you've not joined or wanted to even just check it out,
this is a great opportunity to do so.
So our first question from inside of the Rich Habits Network comes from Brock P.
Brock says, hey everyone, I've seen some people utilize Airbnb arbitrage.
To me, this sounds like a great and affordable way to get into short-term rentals.
Now, assuming you can get the proper approval from the landlord, I'd love to hear everyone's experience or opinions on this.
Robert, one, explain what Airbnb arbitrage is so our listeners can understand that.
Then two, give them your perspective on it.
Love it.
Great question, Brock.
And I'm going to take a little bit of leeway here and really kind of explain this thoroughly.
So what Airbnb arbitrage is, is when you don't own the property, you actually go lease the property
that have a separate contract with the owner of the property for them to allow you to arbitrage the
property and rent it out to Verbo and Airbnb sites like that.
So that's what arbitrage is.
You would go lease this property, say, for $3,000 a month.
You think it could be a good Airbnb.
So then you decorate it, you put the furniture in it, you get it looking nice and
fun and then you go out and put it on these sites with the hopes that you can arbitrage the difference
of the money. Say you bring in $6,000 a month. You're paying out $3,000. You would make a $3,000 net amount.
So why do I not like this as much now as I did two, three years ago? A, the market is saturated.
There are so many courses and so many gurus out there teaching this arbitrage strategy in Airbnb.
So the markets are flooded. Number two, you have to be.
very, very careful and get in the know locally as to what the local governments are doing, maybe the
HOA, there's all kinds of people you're going to have to report to and make sure that they even
allow Airbnb especially arbitrage. Because at the drop of a hat, they could be already in the
process of changing their jurisdictional codes and not allowing it in which then you'd be stuck with a
long-term lease on this property. You would have already purchased your furniture and all of your
stuff and then all of a sudden you have to go try to find somebody to lease it for more than what
you're leasing it for which is highly unlikely you'd be able to break even so those are the good
and the bads of it all so i would say the best way to approach it if you really like this model
find someone local that's an expert in the field get with them talk to them because they're going
to be in the know of what is going on from a jurisdictional standpoint in a rule standpoint to make
sure that they're not going to outlaw it anytime soon and then number two on that
is understand the numbers. Make sure you're using a site like AirDNA so you know what is the average
occupancy rate in that area for a home such as that. What is the average nightly rental for a home
such as that? Because many times the numbers won't make sense like you think and it's not all
rainbows and unicorns. And the last thing you want to do is have another house payment that is draining
your money instead of helping you build well. Robert, what an awesome and thorough breakdown. The only
I have with short-term rental Airbnb arbitrage here is being a customer. It was so weird, actually,
which is maybe a deterrent for people who want to try it. Your customers don't really have that great of an experience.
I was going to the Bitcoin conference in Miami a couple years ago, and to our surprise, it was actually inside of an apartment complex, and to get the key, I kid you not, it was the weirdest process.
You know how normally you check into an Airbnb? They got the little lockbox or something you can click on and you walk right in.
This key to this apartment was on a bike lock, like three blocks down from the apartment.
It was so weird, so I had to find the right lockbox.
I had to type in the code and I had to walk back to the apartment.
Then I had to go in, get questioned by security.
Hey, what are you guys doing here?
Do you live here?
We're like, oh, maybe, yeah, I don't know.
Like, we're just trying to figure it out.
So I'll tell you what, man.
If you want to get in the Airbnb game, in my opinion, it's probably a better idea to own the entire process yourself,
where you can really get rid of those discrepancies and the unpredictability that comes with the arbitrage,
you know, specifically if you have an apartment.
Now, maybe if you're, you know, leasing a house or something, you might have a little bit more autonomy there,
but from a customer experience perspective, it's not something that I enjoy doing.
But really, really great breakdown there from Robert.
Now, our next question comes from Victoria F.
Victoria says, when figuring out how much life insurance to purchase, what are the specific factors that I should consider?
So this question is super, super simple, Victoria, and I love that you asked it because it's a very
easy concept for a lot of people to understand, but they have to be sort of shown how to think about
the math here. So if we take a step back and think about why do we have term life insurance at
all, it's to provide income to our beneficiaries in case we die. So for example, if you are a family
of four and your household income is $150,000 and the breakfast,000, and the breakfast, you're
of that family died and now no one is making any money, but that breadwinner had a term life
insurance policy on them. You would then take the death benefit of that life insurance policy,
invest it into the S&P 500, and then withdraw a annual 4, 5, 6% off of that to supplement
income for the household. So in this example, if you wanted to generate $150,000 of annual
income at a 5% withdrawal rate, your portfolio would need to be about $3 million in value.
So that's sort of how I like to think about it.
So let's call it 15 to 20 times your annual income.
You take that out as the death benefit amount for the policy.
And then after that gets paid to your beneficiaries, the beneficiary would then take that money,
invest it in the S&P 500 and withdraw 4, 5, 6% if they need to annually on that to supplement and generate that income for you.
So the only factor to really consider is how much you're making as a household that will need to be replaced in case of death in the family.
Whatever that number is, multiply it by 15, maybe 20, and then that is how much life insurance you need to take out.
Yeah, that's a great explanation. And I think my only add here is understanding what type of policy you're getting and understanding why you want to get it.
Because there are a lot of people out there pushing these IULs and whole life policies and all these different gimmicky types of policies right now.
so understand why you need it, what the benefits are, and make sure that you get with a reputable
firm to give you the options within your buy box of what you're looking to do, because the most
important thing is understanding the costs related to owning that policy and the benefits to make
sure it's the right fit for you. That's all I can really add to this.
No, I love that. And if you've not yet done this and you're someone who's married and someone,
you know, there are people in your family that depend on your income for their livelihood,
go check out the link in the show notes below.
Sureience is our preferred provider of life insurance.
They are crushing it right now.
Russ McBride's a really great guy.
So definitely go check them out in the show notes below.
Victoria, we wish you the best of luck.
Now our next question comes from Esperanza M.
Esperanza says,
Does anyone have recommendations for home renovations and tips on getting the best deals?
I need to redo both my front and my backyard,
and these are major expenses I want to handle wisely.
I'd appreciate any advice on her.
finding reputable contractors or just different ways to save on such a big project.
Robert, you want to kick this one off?
I would love to, and I'll just give you a breakdown of some of my favorite tips and tricks,
hacks, if you will, to make sure that you do it right and you get treated properly because
contracting, bigger, small can be a nightmare, especially if you don't have a friend or a trusted
family member that's in the business.
So number one for me is once you find that suitable contractor, make sure you will.
work on a draw schedule. Don't fall for anything where they ask for half percent down. Let's say it's a
$30,000 project and they say give us $15 down and then you're going to give us payments after a
certain time. You want to make sure that you work on what's a draw schedule. You can Google that
and really figure out what is a fair and reasonable draw schedule. And all that means is on that
$30,000 project is you might give $5,000 down. Then when they reach a certain milestone, you give
another five and so on and so on because the biggest problem in contracting is that people get these
big deposits from people and then they don't show up for weeks at a time or they'll go get
started and then run out of money because they're constantly working off of customer cash flow
and they don't show up so number two relative to that is stick to the draw schedule because once
you get ahead of them you will be in a situation like I alluded to it's very tough to get them to come
back unless you give them more money. Trust me on this. It happens every day and twice on Sunday
in the contracting world. And then number three is make sure that you understand it's not always a
good idea for you to buy the materials. A lot of customers say, well, I'm going to buy all my
materials. What's the labor going to be? And the problem there a lot of times is you end up paying more
and then you have the headache and the heartache of you didn't get enough tile than Home Depot
ran out, then you've got to wait for more to come, and all of these things come into play because
you're trying to save a little bit of money. I look at it this way. Most reputable contractors
get such a big discount on flooring and paint and lighting and all of the things they provide,
landscaping materials, that it saves you all the headache of sourcing it and pricing it and trying
to figure out how much you need, you know, how many truckloads of mulch do you need versus
letting them handle it all because most contractors are going to
have their markup on the materials, but that markup is going to still be able to save you money
or be about the same cost-wise and you don't have to do all the work because you don't want to
buy yourself another job just trying to save a little money. So one thing to go along with that
would be also when you do your paint, if you're doing a lot of painting, don't buy all the paint
at once. I promise you what you want to do is pick, let's say, two or three paint colors that you
love go buy a test sample go buy a pint or a quart of each color and paint them in neat little
squares on three different walls or two different walls and see them in all different lighting so many
people will buy a paint color put it on the brightest wall with the most sun and be like i love it
they buy it all they paint it and then on the walls that don't get direct light it's very dark or
they don't like how the hue changes so it's very important to understand do samples first it'll
cost you an extra hour and maybe 30, 40 bucks, but you will get colors that you love and make sure
that they work well with your house's lighting. And I would say the last couple things would be
inventory. Many times what contractors will do when they're buying your materials, they will add
extra materials in. It might just be an extra couple cases of cock. It might be an extra 200 square foot
of floor tile, et cetera, et cetera, it could be any mix of different materials. So keep an eye on your
inventory and understand what you need because what they'll do is they'll say well the tile to do
the kitchen renovation is going to cost you $3,800 and you say great you approve it they go buy the
$3,800 but they only needed $3,200 they take the $600 of materials they use it on another job
and you paid all the profits for another job for them so keep an idea on your material know your
square footage and that'll help you a lot in making sure that you maintain a budget that is actually
your budget because trust me, they all want to sneak in extra materials that they can load up their
trucks with and you won't know the difference. And then I would say lastly is don't skimp on big ticket
items. So many people will do a kitchen or a bath renovation and they'll think it's okay to go to
Home Depot and buy their vanities or they'll buy the cheapest vanity on Wayfair and wonder why that
vanity doesn't last more than two or three years. So don't skimp on those items because usually you can buy
high quality items, whether it's vanities or flooring tile or lighting, you can buy the higher
quality versions that'll last forever for very little difference in money. So just keep an eye on that.
And I would say those are the things that I think would help you the most on any project,
big or small. You know, those are really great tips, Robert. And I mean, as someone who's made
the mistake of working with people that I both found on Craigslist and working with people that
I'm like actually friends with, those are two very different people, right? For example, I paid a guy
found on Craigslist to help paint some sort of outdoor gazebo that I have at my house here.
He showed up. I paid him for half the amount of work he did because he did do half the amount of
work there. I had the paint and stuff hanging out myself. He did a pretty bad job on it.
And then I said, hey man, like come back again tomorrow and he never came back, right?
So luckily he only got paid for half there, which was good. I didn't get scammed. But just make
sure you're working with people that are actual, you know, vetted contractors, probably insured.
There's a lot of really cool things to look out there. Yelp reviews are a great place to start when it comes to finding really great people around you. Facebook groups. Maybe, you know, check your neighborhood Facebook group. I'm sure there's a lot of other people who've had contractors come and help them remodel their front yards or their backyards. Robert, do you have any perspective on how the payment gets sent? Do you think cash is the way to go? Do you do credit card? Do you do Zell? How do you think in a perfect world someone should pay a contractor? Yeah, you just want to have trackability. So you don't want to use cash because there's,
They can say you didn't give it to them.
You didn't do this.
And for everything you do in this contractor world, and I've been a contractor, you know,
on and off for 20 some years, and I've seen it all.
Even two weeks ago, I dealt with it after the hurricane.
We hired a contractor to do the roof, signed the paperwork, even downloaded their app.
It was so official.
And then the price changed two different times.
They didn't show up when they were supposed to.
We got another contractor involved.
They were super reputable.
They came to me as a reference from a friend of mine.
they didn't show up.
So you have to understand that many of these contracting companies are not what they appear.
They might have fancy trucks and fancy logos and nice polos,
but at the end of the day, there's still a small business that is always going to be strapped for cash flow.
So just be careful with yours.
That's why the draw schedule is important.
Ask them how they like their payments to be made, work off of a draw schedule.
And like I said, if it's a $30,000 project, you don't want to give them half down.
You maybe want to say, okay, when you show up, we'll give you X, Y, or Z.
It might be 5,000.
It might be 7,500.
I don't know, but just keep it as low as you can because you want to make sure that they actually
show up with the materials, they start the work, and they're moving it along quickly
because what they'll do, a lot of them, they'll show up, do a chunk of work, get a chunk of
money, and then not come back for three weeks, and then you're stuck holding the ball.
So just keep in mind and be careful because they are usually very good salesmen.
and not necessarily as good at running their business as they are closing the deal.
So be careful.
Yeah, I'm right there with you back to this Craigslist guy.
I mean, it was just so annoying.
It's just, it's crazy.
Folks, listen up.
Time could be running out to lock in that 6% or higher yield at public.com.
You can lock in that 6% or higher yield with a bond account.
Remember, your yield is not locked in until the time of purchase.
So you might want to act fast.
Lock in a 6% or higher yield with a diversified portfolio.
of high yield and investment-grade corporate bonds only at public.com forward slash rich habits.
Again, that is public.com forward slash rich habits.
Now, our next question comes from Charles J.
Charles says, hey, Austin and Robert.
I have a question about my Roth IRA strategy.
For context, I'm a realtor in Tennessee, Govalls.
I'm 27 years old, and I have $120,000 worth of stocks and cryptocurrency in my bridge account.
I have four rental units, which I've slowly built up through house hacking,
and about $16,000 in my Roth IRA, which I'm maxing out every year.
I also have a solid emergency fund equal to three months of expenses.
Now, my Roth IRA question is this.
My allocation is being split between the five index funds you guys always talk about,
V-O-O, V-G-T, Q-Q, Mote, and A-I-Q, as well as two smaller allocations toward Bitcoin and Ethereum.
My question is, though, about V-O-O and maybe even UPRO.
I know UPRO is a levered VO position that you guys have spoken about in the past.
Now, since this is a Roth IRA account, I definitely won't be able to touch it for at least 30 years or until I'm 59.5 years old.
So wouldn't it be wise to just move all of my VO into UPRO just in my Roth account?
I understand that this is riskier for a bridge account where I might want to move some of the money around before this 30-year time frame.
but if our assumption is correct that the S&P 500 will continue to move up into the right for years to come,
aren't I technically leaving money on the table with an allocation in V-O-O-O instead of UPRO?
I have a very high-risk tolerance, but for a 30-year time frame, this doesn't even feel that risky to me.
Any insight would be appreciated.
I'm extremely grateful for the Rich Habits podcast and this awesome community that you guys have built.
Robert, what a great question.
Fantastic. I can't wait to dig into this one.
So, Charles, you're 100% correct.
UPRO is a levered position on VO, which means that the gains you see in VO, right, the S&P 500 on an annualized basis, daily basis, weekly basis, they are magnified to the upside and magnified to the downside no matter what happens, right?
So for example, the S&P 500 this year is up 22%, which means that UPRO is up 62%. Right? We're talking about a 3x leverage on the upside. But also that means three, three,
X leverage on the downside. Another example of that was when we had that bear market in 2022. UPR shares fell by 65% compared to the S&P 500's 20-ish percent. Now, additionally, year-to-date, UPRO has fallen 25% in some instances, which happened late July, early August when we sort of had that flash crash. So, I mean, that is a 25% two-week decline in your portfolio. Now, to your point, Charles, I understand what you're saying, right?
you think that as long as we assume that American capitalism is going to be here for the next 30 years, which is correct.
And the S&P 500 should continue to trend up into the right, which is correct.
If we put leverage on that upside, we should have a bigger gain in our portfolio.
That is a correct assumption.
I mean, we've talked about this before on the podcast, Robert.
I still can't find a way or figure out, you know, sort of even to steal man the opposite side of that as how to bet against URPO.
I mean, it's a way to bet on American capitalism for a long period of time.
The only reason this does not make sense in which Charles alluded to here,
which is if it's in a bridge account and you need that money for the next 30 years.
But since it's tied up in a Roth IRA and Charles won't be able to touch it for at least 30 years,
30 years is well a long enough time where whatever volatility UPRO experiences,
I'm positive it's going to be higher in 30 years than it is today.
Now, the only downside risk I could possibly think of right now,
with this UPRO ETF is that the ETF doesn't exist in 30 years.
That's it.
And let me explain that, right?
So with VOO, VOO is the Vanguard S&P 500 ETF.
It is arguably the most popular S&P 500 ETF on the market.
It has over $1.3 trillion of assets invested inside of it.
Vanguard is never going to get rid of this ETF.
Because remember, ETFs are a business.
These companies have to have the listing fees.
They need management.
They need to make sure that the strategy is actually getting implemented.
Compliance, right?
There's a lot of things that go into making an ETF, and they cost money every single year to run.
Now, UPRO only has $4 billion in assets under management, right?
$4 billion, $1.3 trillion, right?
So just think about the difference there.
So is UPRO theoretically going to perform well over the next 30 years?
Yeah, totally could, and theoretically it should continue to perform very well.
But will the ETF be here in 30 years?
don't know. Maybe it loses assets under management. Maybe it just doesn't make sense for them as a
business to have it anymore. Maybe pro shares goes out of business, right? I have no idea. Maybe they
get acquired, right, by someone else and they don't want UPRO. So I'm all for it, Charles. Just be
careful that UPRO is a ETF that maintains its integrity, its existence, and that if it ever does
get liquidated into cash, you immediately reinvest that cash back into your portfolio.
I love this question and your breakdown. And the only thing that really comes to mind for me is diversity. People ask me all the time. You love Bitcoin. Why are you not just all in on Bitcoin? Take all of your money and put it on Bitcoin. One side of me says, I probably should do that because I believe one Bitcoin will be worth $250 to $500,000 in the coming years. And it's the same thing when we talk about the S&P 500. You know, every single day you have to ask yourself, the question, is this the best?
place to put my money. So in this instance, the only reason I don't love this strategy in question
is I like to be diversified so I can never go broke. And my fear is if you go too heavy in this,
and let's say the S&P 500 and J.P. Morgan Chase is right. And the S&P 500 does go flat for years and
years, because remember, there was an article, I think, last week, where they said the average return
for the next 10 years was going to be 3%. Well, then that would mean you would be
only making, what would that be 9% on your money while there would be better places to make more
money. So I like it. I would do it with a small portion. I own it, but I wouldn't go all in on
you pro because you just don't want to be in a situation where there is two or three bad years and it
wipes out 60% of your gains for the last 10 years. And then all of a sudden that happens to be the
time frame when you're getting your money out. So that's why I like diversity. I love you pro,
but I would keep it a small percentage of your portfolio.
Yeah, maybe there's a world rubber where, you know, Charles here could split it up 70-30, right?
So let's say you have a, you know, $10,000 of that, I think it was $16,000 that he had mentioned here in his S&P 500.
Let's say 10,000 of that was invested into V-O.
Well, maybe here's an opportunity to put 7,000 in V-O and the other 3,000 in UPRO, right?
It's sort of a 70-30 split there, allowing you to have some of this UPRO upside as well as continue to have the V-O-O-E-O-A.
of diversification. That just comes with the S&P 500. So really great question, Charles, and thank you so much
for being a part of the Rich Habits Network. Our next question comes from Hasina X. Hasina says, I only have
$300 a month to invest. However, some of the ETFs you guys talk about, like QQQ, cost more than $300.
For example, QQQ almost costs $500 now. How do I buy something that costs $500 with only $300?
Robert, I'll let you answer this one.
Yeah, that's a great question, and I get asked this a lot.
And how it relates to Schwab is you'd have to look up in your Schwab account of how to buy slices.
And what this is is exactly what you think it is.
You're buying a slice of a total share, and you can buy up to 30 slices for as low as $5 per slice.
So when you're looking at these high-priced items like QQQQ, you can do it through the slice program.
it's pretty simple, it's fractional, and you can do it that way to make sure that you can still
achieve and buy what you want to buy within your budget.
Something else I'd encourage you to think about, too, Haseena is, I mean, Robin Hood is
$1, $1,000, and when finances as little as $1, right?
So, you know, public is only $1, right?
So Schwab is not your platform.
There's a bunch of other platforms out there that will allow you to invest into the index funds
and ETFs we talk about with as little as $1 if you want to go that low, but I think $5 is a great
solution here by Schwab. Our next question comes from Kurt B. Kurt says, hi, Ossenter, Robert. I started listening
to your podcast a few months ago, and I am loving it. My wife and I are 53 years old with an annual
income of $215,000. I have a 401k with $280,000 inside of it. My wife has won at $175,000. We also have
a few annuities with total values of around $200,000. I started playing around with the ETFs
you all recommended with about $50,000 in a bridge account, and I'm loving the returns I've seen
so far. I also have a pension when I retire, which will be about $3,500 a month. We're currently investing
19% of our salaries each into our 401ks using the standard target date funds of 2035. We have
three years left on a he lock at $2,600 a month, but other than that, we have no other loans.
We both want to retire at 59.5 years old. My question is, should we reduce our annual 401k contributions
to the minimum 6% to get the match and then put the other 13% into a bridge account,
or do we just write it out for a few more years?
I wish I would have found you guys earlier.
Thanks so much for the help.
Robert, do you want to kick this one off?
Yeah, I think this is a great question.
And based on the one statement that we both want to retire at 59.5.
I think he could go both ways, in my opinion.
You could do the bridge account and you'd have six and a half years to invest in
it and have full autonomy in it, but you could also just keep riding out what you have if they're
performing well enough or make changes in the current portfolio depending on what you have for
options to be able to achieve the same thing because obviously with the 401k's, you'll be able
to access that money at 59.5 as well. So I think this is a tough one where it could go both ways.
If we have a really good six and a half years in the economy moving forward and you invested
correctly. I think your gains would
surpass what would happen in the 401k.
So if it's me with
my risk tolerance, I'd do the bridge
account. But in a normal situation
where people want safety and
they don't care about the autonomy,
you could also leave it and do just fine.
So to kind of walk through some math
here, you write, $215,000
salary. You said you're
investing 19% into your 401ks every year. So you're
looking at about $41,000 a year.
If you continue to do that for the next,
call it seven years here. You're looking at a total contribution amount of about $286,000. You then add to that
the $280,000 you already have invested in yours and the $175,000 invested in your wife's. That is $740-ish
$1,000 in these accounts. But that doesn't account for any growth. We all know the S&P 500
doubles every seven years. You're in a target date fund so you might not experience that same
performance. So let's just say instead of a hundred percent return over the next six and a half
seven years, you guys experience a 65 or 70 percent return. So assuming a 65 percent return over the
next seven and a half years, which I think is pretty reasonable, you're looking at about
$1.2 million combined inside of your 401ks that I think you guys could totally live off of. Now,
assuming you pay off this he lock, which had said you would, and you have no other debt,
you all are sitting pretty. Now, to Robert's point, though, about sort of this autonomy, right?
That's the only differentiator that we're talking about here. Being able to then say, instead of contributing this 40,000 to my 401ks that are parked in these target date funds, do I want to take, let's call 30,000 of that every year and park it into a bridge account that I can then invest into maybe the S&P 500 directly or NASDAQ or things like that.
Considering your age, I would imagine you probably don't want to be too aggressive, right?
So I understand why you have these target date funds. But on the flip side of that, you are,
only 53, and I'd imagine you're going to live at least for another 30 years till 83 years old.
Back to Charles' question about sort of this 30-year time horizon, right? That's a long time
where you could be aggressive and grow your money. So to me, I'm right on the fence of both.
If you want to have that bridge account and you want to be aggressive with this money
and you have a longer-term time horizon of, let's call it, 7, 10, 15, 20 years inside of that
to let the money grow, be my guest. But on the other side of that, if you want to lean more
towards security. If you want to lean more toward predictability and having a little bit more of the
fixed income figured out, putting this money in these 2035 target date funds are going to do that for
you automatically, leaving you again with this, let's call it, $1.2 million at 59 and a half years old.
Now, the real question is, how do you continue to invest that money once you're in retirement?
Robert and I highly recommend you getting with a very smart fiduciary investment advisor that can
help you sort of weigh those risk tolerances and figure out what those timelines look like.
like your monthly needs for income. You mentioned you have this pension at 3,500 a month.
So there's a lot of things to consider here. But the last thing I want to mention, and it's
something that's very, very important, is you guys are doing great. You're going to have over a million
dollars invested in retirement accounts by the time you're 59 and a half. You got this awesome
pension waiting on you. No debt, no mortgage, no nothing. You guys are going to be enjoying your
retirement to the fullest, and we're super, super excited for you. I love it. And yes, this is just one of
those questions where it can go both ways. You have a lot of options and we just like that you're
thinking through what all of those options are so you can maximize your retirement accounts in the
next six and a half years. So I like it. So our next question comes from Mike G. Mike says,
Hi, Austin and Robert. I've been a fan of the show since day one. Thank you both for all you do.
Here's my question. I've been saving up a down payment for my first house and I currently have
$83,000 in public's high yield savings account. However, I hate seeing that sum of money sit idle
compared to the rest of my portfolio? What are your thoughts on using a portion of the $83,000
to buy its shares in Tesla stock and then sell covered calls against them? I plan to buy a house
in the next two years, and this seems like a reasonable way to boost my savings rate without
incurring too much risk. For context, I'm 31 years old. I make $150,000 a year. I have $105,000 in my
$4,000 in my Roth IRA, and $20,000 in real estate investment trusts in cryptocurrency. I have no debt,
my credit card bill that I pay in full every single month. What a really cool question for Mike.
All right, Mike, yeah, don't do that. That's not a good idea, my friend. I do not believe that if
someone is trying to save money that will be used in the next 18 to 24 months, that they should be
at all aggressive with this money, right? Having it be making three, four, four and a half percent
in a high yield savings account or with a bond account or, you know, T bills, whatever there, like, that's
totally cool. That is you being aggressive with your money, right? That's making sure that
inflation is not eating away at your purchasing power. But what happens if Tesla stock goes down?
What happens if you can't roll it forward and you are, you know, you get assigned? All these bad
things could always happen when it comes to investing your money, right? Investing involves risk,
and we say that all the time. If you are someone who's literally saying, I want to save up for a
house and buy it in the next two years, then do that. Save up for a house and buy it the next two years.
If you feel bad about your money not working for you, open up your 401K balance and say,
oh, cool, I'm up $20,000 this year.
Or open up your Roth IRA and say, oh, cool, I'm up $15,000 this year.
Or your reits in crypto and say, oh, cool, I'm up another $7,000, right?
You're already invested.
You shouldn't feel bad for being on the sidelines because you're not.
You already have now, let's call it, $200,000 invested at 31 years old, which is incredible for your age.
So do not feel like you're sitting idle or your money's not work.
for you. It definitely is because you're going to take this money to go buy a house that will then go up
by three, four, five percent per year, as well as offer a very stable living condition for yourself
and your family in the future. So really proud of you here, Mike, but I do not think that you need to
take any of this $83,000 and roll the dice by putting it into single stocks and trying to sell
covered calls against them to make more income. So I'm going to take the other side of the fence on this
because I remember how aggressive I was at 31 years old. I was making a lot of money and I was very
aggressive. I agree with Austin. I wouldn't buy the single stocks. I wouldn't do the covered call
strategies, but I would consider taking the 83,000, maybe leaving, you know, 33,000 of it in the
high yield savings on public and then taking 50 of it and putting it into something safer like a
VO or something like that. Or flip that around and leave 50 and put the 33 into VOO to get some more gains.
because the only thing you have to concern yourself with here is,
what if you happen to choose a time when the stock market is down for two straight years
and you put yourself at risk and you ended up going backwards with your $83,000?
Now, generally, that's not going to happen,
but you could consider using some of these funds to be a little more aggressive
than the 4 or 5% you're going to make in the high-yield savings
and putting it into something like V-O-O to earn some.
additional gains over the next 24 months. I like Austin's approach. I'm more aggressive, so I'd
probably use some of it because it's hard to watch yourself make three or four percent, even
though you're doing better than most, because it is active and is earning money. But I would
consider both strategies. And so to dive into that more, right, let's say that he took the 33,000
and he put it into VO in the longstanding returns of VO over a long period of time, let's call it 10%
per year. Your 30,000, over two years, would be worth $36,000. So we're talking about taking on
the risk for an extra $6,000, which in my conservative brain is like, if you're trying to
save for a house, like $6,000, I don't think is going to be a needle mover either way. So I, again,
that's kind of like where I'm coming from. But I guess on the other side of the equation,
you know, maybe that $6,000 helps you buy the next tier house. I don't know. Yeah. I mean,
either way, these are great questions because they're so in depth and nuanced. And it just really
lets us explore our brain and our experiences of what we would do given it was our situation.
So our next question comes from Carson D. And Carson says, hi, Austin and Robert. I want to get
your thoughts on an opportunity that I'm considering. I'm single, 22 years old, and I'm a
college student graduating this spring. I'm fortunate enough to have a solid financial position with
a net worth of about $225,000 that is mostly held in a taxable.
brokerage account. A significant portion of this came from the acquisition of a company I had a very
small stake in. I expect to receive an additional $250,000 when the company goes public, which could
happen in the next several years. My current internship will transition into a full-time job
after graduation. Over the past year, I've been able to save about $1,000 per month after expenses.
I recently started contributing to a Roth 401k through my employer, and they're matching my contributions.
Here's where I'd specifically like your input. I work at a financial firm with the financial firm with
the strong private equity division. Employees who qualify as accredited investors, which I hope to
me through professional credentials, can invest alongside the general partners fee-free. The firm's track
record is impressive, ranking highly among growth private equity funds, and I expect a new fund
to open shortly after I go full-time. I'm excited about the potential for strong compounded growth
so early in my 20s, but the investment would likely be locked up for five to eight years. I'll be living
with my parents initially out of college, so my expenses will continue to be low. While I'm
comfortable with taking some high conviction concentrated bets, I don't want to overextend myself
at a young age. Keep in mind, the commitment is called over several years. I'd really appreciate
any advice or thoughts you have on how much to commit, as well as how to approach this opportunity
and just anything you have to share about this. Thanks, Austin, and Robert, can't wait to hear your
thoughts. You want to take this one off, Robert? I love it. Carson, great job. I love to see young people
crushing it that understand, you know, you have to put in the work, you have to have to have the
knowledge, you have to really, you know, dig in and get dirty to build wealth, especially at an
early age. So I love this, all of it. Here's what I would say. And you alluded to it. Keep in mind that
any of these venture investments you are going to make through private equity are going to be
tied up for a very long time. You already know that. So as long as you understand whatever
portion of your investable capital that is going into these deals,
is likely going to be tied up for that five, six, seven years, then I'm okay with it.
Otherwise, I would say I would wait a little bit longer, get your net worth up a little bit
higher. I don't like to see people doing private equity deals, you know, with, you know,
a net worth of less than one or two million dollars. But I'm okay with it because you're smart.
You understand the platform and that aspect of investing. And you already have a really good
base built. And I would look at it that maybe your buy box for these private equity deals is only
20% of your net investable capital. You know, I spoke to a friend yesterday. I believe he's 28 years old.
He's all in right now on crypto and one venture deal. And I think that's scary because if this
startup doesn't work, then 50, 60% of his net worth that he's been working towards over the past
few years is going to be gone because a lot of startups and private equity deals do go to zero.
So just keep that in mind. I love where your head's at. And I am totally all about you doing it,
but just make sure you understand that it's illiquid and the time frame around it. So you don't get
yourself put into a cash situation where your cash broke and you can't get to enough money you need
for other opportunities. Yeah, I'm right there with you, Robert. I would even go closer to 10% of this
$225,000, you know, net worth, right? If you wanted to take 20 to 25,000 of your money,
right, 10% and roll the dice, right? Because that's what this is doing. You're rolling the dice
for five to eight years and maybe it turns into 100,000 or 150,000 because, you know,
this private equity growth fund was able to invest in some really cool startups. Like,
congratulations, that's your down payment for a house when you're older. Or if it goes to zero,
you know, you knew your risks. But I think to Robert's point, what's really important to consider
here is you need to have a higher net worth before you really think about doing these types of things.
You know, it's called an accredited investor credentials for a reason. You have to have a million
net worth to be an accredited investor or make a quarter million dollars a year for two years.
You're trying to go around this a little bit with your professional credentials, which just means
you passed a couple tests and you know what you're talking about, which is true. But they make it
so that you have to have a lot of money to participate because they know that if you'll, you know,
make the wrong bet you could lose a lot of money. So I'm right there with you, Robert. I think that,
you know, this is a really cool situation to be in. If I was Carson, I would just rather Carson put a
little bit less maybe than what he might have originally been thinking. Let's call it $20,000 to $25,000.
And then to continue to invest the money you do have into longstanding index funds and ETFs that we talk about.
Do not make the mistake that Robert and I both made when we were much younger, which is going all in on a
single stock or a cryptocurrency or a venture startup, right? We've done those.
things and we've made those mistakes so that you don't have to do that, right? I've talked about it all
the time. I lost $75,000 of my hard-earned money by investing a little too aggressive in the early
days into a venture startup that ended up going to zero. It sucks. There's nothing worse than
losing hard-earned money, especially from a successful exit that you've already had, which is really
cool. So just make sure you're doing everything right as it relates to your tax advantage accounts,
thinking the Roth IRA, the HSA, the Roth 401K, and then also think about what you can do with that
account. It seems like you got a ton already in a taxable brokerage. When do you want to retire?
Right? You've already, you know, done a really great job building your wealth.
40-year-old retirement could be around the corner for you, Carson. You just have to think about
what those goals might begin to look like. And then don't forget about real estate. You mentioned
you're living with your parents. I've never met anyone with a quarter million dollar net worth
that's living with their parents. My favorite saying is the eagle that never leaves the nest,
turns into a turkey. Do not turn into a turkey. Carson, leave the nest eventually. Just go be on your
own and live your own life. I've got one more quick takeaway and then we can sign off for Carson and
anyone else listening. The biggest lesson I learned in private equity and venture investing
over the last 15 or 20 years of doing it is to write more checks that are smaller than going
all in on one or two deals because you just give yourself more opportunities to win because many of
these investments are going to go to zero. And so that is the key that I would use is when you're
thinking about this strategy, just write smaller checks over more investments because if you hit a
big winner, it's going to be a great windfall anyway. That's how I do it. And it has worked so well
for me over the years once I learned that. And what sucks too is I'm sure Carson's kind of just like,
oh, yeah, I'm 22. I'm investing into funds. I'm well on my way. Like I'm doing this. I'm doing
that. I had the exact same mindset. I was 24 when I invested in my first fund. 24 when I invested
in my first startups, right? I totally know what you're talking about. And it feels good to be young
and doing these things. But man, I feel like I would have felt better if I used that money to go buy a
duplex or I would have felt better if I used that money to go, you know, see my first 250 or 300,000
in V-O-O, you know, buy my first one or two Bitcoin, you know, whole Bitcoin, right? So there's just,
like, having that liquidity means a lot. And you don't realize you like it so much until you have it
or until you don't have it, right? And so just give yourself some perspective here, Carson,
and we're rooting for you, man. You're doing a really great job. Just don't get ahead of your
because you are at this position where if you make too many big investments or make the wrong
investments, all of this 250,000, 220,000 that you've got right here could easily turn into 46,000
because you got too risky. And you are at a point where you can have tens of millions of dollars
in retirement with this kind of money. I agree. Everyone, thank you so much for stopping by.
Have a wonderful, wonderful, spookacular day. We just love that you guys are here weekend and week out
with us, giving us those five-star reviews, helping us continue to grow. And if you haven't joined
the work, make sure you check it out. I think it is one of the best communities, newsletters,
and you get the private lives with Austin and I each and every week. So there's a ton of value there.
But thank you all for stopping by. Thanks. Don't forget to share the episode with a friend.
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