Scamfluencers - Rocky Aoki: Hibachi’s a Bitch and Then You Die | 163
Episode Date: June 16, 2025Rocky Aoki, the son of a vaudeville performer and a tango dancer, grows up in the wreckage of post-war Tokyo. With his natural flair for entertainment, he opens his first Benihana restaurant ...in Manhattan, making sure to entertain his customers via knife-wielding chefs. Rocky builds his business up throughout the 80s, stopping at nothing to make his restaurant empire bullet-proof, but he ends up almost bringing the ship down after having several affairs, a secret family, and a conviction for insider trading. To this day his kids and his widow, Keiko Aoki, are still battling it out over the Benihana trust and its flashy legacy.Be the first to know about Wondery’s newest podcasts, curated recommendations, and more! Sign up now at https://wondery.fm/wonderynewsletterListen to Scamfluencers on the Wondery App or wherever you get your podcasts. You can listen early and ad-free on Wondery+. Join Wondery+ in the Wondery App, Apple Podcasts or Spotify. Start your free trial by visiting wondery.com/links/scamfluencers/ now.See Privacy Policy at https://art19.com/privacy and California Privacy Notice at https://art19.com/privacy#do-not-sell-my-info.
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Just a disclaimer before we start this episode.
I lost my voice for a few days.
It's finally back. Just a disclaimer before we start this episode. I lost my voice for a few days.
It's finally back, but I'm now left with this sexy rasp, which you all have to enjoy.
Sachi, do you have like a dream dining experience?
Like something that you just want to experience so badly?
No.
No, not really.
It's okay, I'll throw one out for you.
Okay.
Mine is very attainable.
It is literally just to go to Benihana.
Mmm.
I don't know why I haven't gone like,
I've clearly been around one,
but I feel like now it has to be so special.
Yeah, dinner and a show, I get it.
I would go with you.
We should go, there's one in Toronto.
Someone take us to Benihana.
Benihana sponsor us!
Maybe not.
Maybe not after this.
Okay, maybe not, nevermind.
I don't know yet.
Well, today I'm gonna tell you all about the insane story
of how Benny Hanna got huge.
But most importantly, it's a story about Rocky Aoki,
the brilliant entrepreneur behind the beloved brand.
He introduced a type of Japanese food to the masses,
but a string of scams nearly tarnished his reputation.
It's the spring of 1964 in Midtown Manhattan.
A woman named Clementine Paddleford is walking down West 56th Street when a tiny storefront
catches her eye.
Clementine's got blonde wavy hair, a prominent nose, and a bright smile.
But she's perhaps best known for her palette.
At this time, Clementine is the restaurant critic
for the New York Herald Tribune
and the best known food critic in the country.
Her opinion can single-handedly make or break
a New York City eatery.
After more than 30 years in the industry,
she probably feels like she's seen it all.
But what she sees through this restaurant's front window
is entirely new.
Inside, a man is cooking for customers
right at their table on a built-in steel grill.
The chef uses a huge knife and long spatula
to chop up pieces of steak
and flip them in the air with dramatic flourish.
Sachi, this sounds familiar to you.
We've all seen the videos.
Yeah, this is classic Benihana.
I want him to throw the steak into my mouth.
Yes, it is classic Benihana.
One day, we will get steak and shrimp tossed into our mouths.
This tiny Japanese restaurant is the first ever Benihana.
And Clementine decides right then and there
that she wants to review it.
When she finally walks into the restaurant,
it's lined with tables that are 10 feet long and 5 feet wide.
Waitresses and kimonos pour her tea,
and an expert chef in an all-white uniform
cooks for her right there at the table.
She samples a bunch of different menu items and loves them all.
The shrimp is deliciously browned, the vegetables sit on top of what she calls a haystack of
bean sprouts.
Clementine is delighted and writes a rave review.
After it's published, other food critics, TV crews, and trendy New Yorkers start packing
into the restaurant.
The owner, Rocky Aoki, had been on the verge
of shutting the restaurant down.
But thanks to Clementine,
Benihana grows popular enough
that Rocky opens a second location within three years.
Eventually, his hibachi empire grows
to include locations all over the world.
In the process, Rocky himself becomes a celebrity.
But like so many people who get rich and famous fast,
some of what Rocky does with his new fame and fortune
isn't above board.
He'll end up opening countless questionable side businesses,
start at least one secret family,
and use inside information to make some timely investments.
Rocky's business empire will redefine the role of Japanese cuisine in American
culture forever. But when it comes time for Rocky to think about his legacy,
the fate of his fortune will throw his family into total chaos.
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A message from the city of Toronto.
From Wondery, I'm Sarah Hagge and I'm Sachi Cole.
And this is Scanfluencers.
Come and give me your attention.
I won't ever learn my lesson. Turn my speakers to 11. I feel like a legend. influencers.
Benihana is best known for its open stovetops and chefs that turn food prep into performance
art.
But the chain restaurant's origins are a little less savory.
Rocky Aoki overcame racism in the 60s to make a splash as a chef, then spent the 80s hoovering cocaine,
crashing speedboats, maintaining secret families,
and yes, doing a little insider trading.
He left behind a hefty legacy,
millions of dollars, dozens of restaurants, and six kids.
And thanks to his penchant for drama
and a controversial third wife,
Rocky spent his life serving up more than just teppanyaki.
This is Rocky Aoki, Hibachi's a bitch, and then you die.
It's October 1938 in Tokyo, Japan.
Rocky Aoki is the firstborn son of a couple with the flair for entertaining.
His father is a vaudeville performer who idolizes Fred Astaire,
and his mother is a tango dancer.
It's a turbulent time to grow up in Tokyo.
In 1944, when Rocky's just six years old, American planes firebombed the city, killing a hundred thousand people.
In the wake of this tragedy, Rocky's dad, Yunosuke,
opens a coffee shop.
He names it Benihana,
the Japanese name for the red flower he saw
blooming in the wreckage of the bombings.
Oh, that is not what I thought that meant.
I didn't really think about what it meant,
and I didn't know it meant that.
I thought it meant food
that's flipping around.
Yeah, like food and air.
Feed me. I don't know what I thought it was.
No, it's actually very beautiful.
Yeah, I didn't think it was this poignant and I immediately feel bad.
Well, growing up, Rocky's kind of a handful.
He loves his mom and is extremely respectful of her,
but he and his dad have a more complicated relationship.
On one hand, Rocky idolizes him.
His father loves music, so when Rocky is a teen,
he learns how to play the bass.
But they also fight constantly
and even get physical sometimes.
During one argument, Rocky throws a punch at his dad,
who responds by throwing an ashtray at his chest.
In high school, Rocky joins a band,
and he gets in trouble for fighting
and selling girly pictures.
For a while, he seems to find an outlet in wrestling.
He's just 5'4 and 114 pounds,
but he's good enough that he gets recruited
to wrestle for Japan in the 1960 Olympics.
His talent also attracts attention
from American universities,
and he accepts a scholarship offer
from a school in Massachusetts.
Sachi, check out this photo of young Rocky
in his wrestling getup.
He's so cute.
He's so cute.
Great jaw.
He looks like a little, a little scrappy guy.
I dig it.
He is a little scrappy,
and Rocky's college days don't last long.
He's suspended for multiple infractions,
including breaking another student's nose.
So he decides to leave and make a big move
to New York City.
By the early 60s, Rocky is studying restaurant management
at a technical college,
presumably hoping to follow in his father's footsteps.
Around this time, he also starts sporting a tightly-permed jerry-curl.
He later tells New York Magazine he adopted this style so that white people could tell
him apart from other Asian guys.
Objectively silly, but this also probably worked.
It is very endearing to think about this little little Japanese guy with Jerry curl like getting the perm
and explaining why he was getting it. Yeah.
Also, it's around this time Rocky starts selling ice cream out of a truck to make ends meet.
Only no one in Midtown wants to buy from him probably because of racism.
So Rocky pivots. He parks his truck in Harlem, blasting Japanese
music and puts little paper umbrellas on the soft serve. He tapes articles about his wrestling
accomplishments to the side of his truck to help him stand out from the crowd and to intimidate
potential rivals. And it works. People line up down the block to get ice cream from him.
And it works. People line up down the block to get ice cream from him.
Rocky's a born businessman.
He's got a natural talent for self-promotion
and a powerful drive to succeed.
And he isn't afraid to lean into Americans' skewed
perceptions about Japanese culture to make a buck.
But Rocky has dreams bigger than a roving ice cream truck.
He wants to make his mark in the food world
the same way his dad did.
But Rocky is about to discover
that success in the restaurant business
takes generous heapings of hard work and determination
and a pretty huge serving of luck.
It's 1963 and 25-year-old Rocky is doing something
a lot of us probably did in our 20s.
Operator.
Calling his dad to ask for money.
But Rocky's not trying to make rent or buy beer.
Instead, he wants to open a business.
Rocky saved up $10,000 from his summer running the ice cream truck.
And now he's thinking about his next move.
He wants to open a restaurant just like his dad did back in Tokyo.
He's even got a location in mind.
A tiny spot in Midtown Manhattan
with space for just four tables.
It's perfect for the concept he's toying with, teppanyaki.
Sachi, what do you know about this kind of food?
I mean, that's what Benihana is, right?
It's when they make the food on like a flat top
in front of you, right?
Yes, it's like a specific cooking technique
where a chef makes things like steak and seafood
on top of that flat top grill we are thinking about
right in front of customers.
It originated in Japan,
but teppanyaki isn't really traditional Japanese cuisine.
In fact, it was only invented after World War II
when occupying North American soldiers
were looking for cuisine that was more like
the American food they were used to back home.
There aren't a ton of teppanyaki restaurants in the States,
but Rocky figures if Americans love
this kind of cooking abroad,
maybe they'll love it in America too.
His dad agrees and he's excited to get on board.
He's always wanted to expand the family's restaurant business
into the States.
And Rocky is excited that he can call the shots
while his dad stays in Japan.
Working with his dad on a business, even from afar,
could be a tricky power dynamic for a father and son
who are used to butting heads.
But Rocky's dad has a really useful suggestion
before the restaurant even opens.
He thinks the teppanyaki idea is a little boring on its own.
His vaudeville instincts are telling him
that the restaurant needs some extra flair.
So he tells Rocky to inject some showmanship
into the cooking process.
Rocky knows a good idea when he hears one,
and he instructs his new chefs to clang knives,
juggle shrimp, and tell jokes.
Rocky names a restaurant, Beni Hana,
in an homage to his dad, and the doors open in 1964.
This is the year the Olympics are being held in Tokyo,
so interest in Japanese culture is high.
But starting a new restaurant is never easy,
and it's especially hard when you're working
against racist misconceptions.
Can you read what Rocky later tells an interviewer
about American restaurant audiences?
He says, quote,
Americans enjoy eating in exotic surroundings,
but are deeply mistrustful of exotic foods.
100% correct.
Absolutely.
They want to eat something with chopsticks,
but they want it to be fries.
Yes, that is exactly it.
Yeah.
Well, for months,
Benny Hanna gets no traction and no respect.
And Rocky's losing money like crazy.
He can't afford to buy a liquor license
or hire a proper staff.
By this time, Rocky has married a family friend from home
named Chizuru, who helps in lieu of actual employees.
Rocky's mother and three brothers even fly in from Japan
to work for him for free.
The restaurant is doing so poorly,
they take on side gigs for extra cash.
The situation is so depressing
that one of his brothers literally goes back home
after a week.
With everyone in his family investing their time and money
in the business, the stakes are high
and the pressure is mounting.
But this is the same Rocky who managed to make $10,000
selling soft serve ice cream in a single summer.
He's not gonna give up easily.
Some nights, he even sleeps on the bathroom floor
so he can start work the next morning as early as possible.
He's hustling as hard as he can,
and while he doesn't know it yet,
his hard work is going to pay off
because Benihana is about to get the kind of boost
most restaurant owners can only dream about.
It's the spring of 1964.
Ansachi, remember that rave review Rocky got in the New York Herald Tribune?
I do.
Well, it's just been published about six months into Benihana's existence.
And this single review literally changes everything.
Suddenly, he's running one of the busiest
restaurants in New York City. Almost overnight, Rocky goes from serving 10
customers per dinner shift to turning people away at the door. Within two years
he opens a second location three blocks away and he hires a Rolls-Royce to take
customers back and forth when each location fills up. Within a decade, Rocky's running nearly 20 Benihanas, breaking in $12 million a year in profit.
The restaurant chain is completely redefining Japanese American cuisine.
And I mean that literally. Rocky claims he invented both green tea ice cream
and the sake-tini during this period.
invented both green tea ice cream and the sake-tini during this period.
Okay, the stranglehold that the free scoop of green tea ice cream had over me at all those like
weird Asian fusion restaurants that opened in Toronto. Everything Rocky did is forgiven because of the green tea ice cream.
Well, yeah, I mean, if he invented it, definitely. I mean, and I believe him.
I do him. I do, too. There is one downside to all the success.
Rocky's dad feels overshadowed by his son.
Their relationship is just as complicated
as it was when Rocky was a rebellious teen.
The two men are incredibly alike.
Charming, business-minded, and a bit hot-headed.
When they get along, they're super close,
but when they fight, it's vicious. business-minded and a bit hot-headed. When they get along, they're super close, but
when they fight, it's vicious. It's a tough dynamic for any father and son, but it's
even worse now that they're business partners. Even though Benny Han is taking off, they
get caught up in a feud over an unrelated business deal and never manage to resolve
it. Baraki has his own fatherly duties to focus on now. By the late 70s, he
and Chazuru have three kids. Kana Grace, Kevin, and Steve. Yes, Sachi, that's Steve Aoki.
Okay, I did know this, that Steve Aoki's dad was the Benihana guy. Steve Aoki, who's a pretty
famous DJ, it also feels right that his dad would be the Benny Hanna guy
because Steve famously throws a cake into the crowd
at every show he performs at,
which does feel spiritually related to...
throwing an egg into someone's mouth, right?
Ah, you are connecting dots this episode
that, like, I didn't know existed.
This is why they pay me the big bucks.
No, truly you're blowing my mind with that.
I'm like, wow.
And by now, Rocky settled down with his family in Englewood, New Jersey, a suburban town
right outside of Manhattan.
They live lavishly in a huge house with an indoor swimming pool and a Bentley that Rocky
doesn't even have time to use
because he's so busy traveling.
Rocky may be a family man now,
but he's not exactly a homebody.
For the next decade, Rocky keeps busy.
At one point, he opens a four-story nightclub
called Genesis.
He loses $2 million on it
and shuts the club down just one year later.
Then he starts a porn magazine also called Genesis. He gets really into competitive backgammon
and starts doing a ton of cocaine. He produces a Broadway play and tries to buy a major league
baseball team. He even starts a competitive speedboat race called the Benihana Grand Prix, which he also competes in.
He gets into racing cars, and on top of all that,
he also starts pot-air ballooning.
I can't believe in that list of silly little hobbies
you've listed, cocaine was the least embarrassing one.
Yeah, and I will say that Genesis existed for like 30 years.
He was in it for the love of the game.
Like, he kept print alive.
He really did.
I guess another thing to admire about Steve Aoki's dad.
Well, Rocky's fueled by a combination of ambition,
thrill-seeking, and restlessness.
But he's doing all this for professional reasons too.
These stunts keep him and Benny Hanna
firmly in the public eye.
His hot air balloons, race cars, and speedboats
all have the word Benny Hanna
splashed across them in huge letters.
And with every wild antique, the brand gets more publicity.
Rocky used to be a scrappy entrepreneur who pasted
his achievements on the side of his ice cream truck. Now he's a mogul doing the same thing
on a much bigger scale. So far, Rocky's gotten everything he wants. Success plus all the
thrills he's craved since he was a rowdy, rebellious teenager. But he's about to hit a major bump in the road,
and it's gonna force him to slow down in a serious way.
It's September, 1979 in San Francisco,
and 40-year-old Rocky opens his eyes
to find that he's in a hospital room.
He's lying on a bed, completely naked,
and there are two women standing on either side of him.
The last thing Rocky remembers is going really, really fast.
He was competing in his own speedboat racing competition,
the Benihana Grand Prix, on a windy day in the Bay.
He was going about 80 miles an hour
near the Golden Gate Bridge,
when all of a sudden his boat fell apart underneath him and he got seriously hurt.
He tore a neorta, broke his arm, shattered his leg and his liver got sliced in half.
That is very gross. I know, it's cartoonish to think that could happen to someone. Well, Rocky was helicoptered to a hospital
where doctors operated on him for more than 10 hours.
He eventually learns that he was unconscious
for three full days.
But when he first opens his eyes,
he's confronted with a totally different existential dilemma,
the two women in the room with him.
One of them is his wife, Chizuru, the mother of his three children.
And the other is his mistress,
a woman named Pamela Hillberger.
She showed up to watch the race with her
and Rocky's secret three-year-old son, Kyle.
Rocky hasn't just been hiding an affair,
he's got a whole ass second family.
Oh my God, an affair with a white woman? Death penalty.
I knew you were going to say that.
It's already bad. You have to be a white woman. You can't be married to a woman named Chazuru
and then have an affair with a woman named Pamela Hillberger. Please be serious.
I know. Well, when Rocky realizes what's going on, he panics and pretends to black out again
to buy himself some time.
Ha ha ha ha ha.
Rocky has a lot of mistresses,
including a former Miss Iceland
and a bunch of women he picked up at his nightclub.
But Pamela is his main girlfriend.
She gave birth to Kyle about two years ago
around the same time Chazuru had Steve.
Chazuru, understandably, never gets over this betrayal.
Rocky later tells a reporter that she was okay with him having a mistress,
but the secret kid was a last straw.
In 1981, two years after his accident, she and Rocky get a divorce.
And later that same year, he marries Pamela.
As Rocky's personal life gets more complicated,
his business does too.
And stay with me, this part is confusing,
but it is important.
As Benihana expands through the 80s,
Rocky decides to separate it into two business entities
so that he can raise more cash.
So Benihana becomes two companies.
Benihana of Tokyo, which owns 39 restaurants,
and another called Benihana Inc., which owns the other 11.
He sells 49% of Benihana Inc. to the public
and makes a bunch of money,
but stays on as chairman of both companies.
For the next few years, Benihana keeps growing,
and Rocky keeps living his eccentric mogul lifestyle.
He and Pamela have two more kids together, Echo and Devin.
Rocky's had the kind of success that most people dream about,
but he still dreams of more.
Here he is talking to a reporter a few years after he split Benihana in two.
When asked if he's made it yet, Rocky says...
Every risk Rocky takes seems to work out well.
So in 1993, when a friend comes to him
with an insider tip about a stock he should
buy, Rocky takes the advice. Why shouldn't he? It's an easy way to make some extra cash and another
win for a guy who just can't stop winning. But Rocky's about to learn that flying too close to
the sun is a lot like touching a hot tabletop grill. You're likely to get burned.
Today is the worst day of Abby's life.
The 17-year-old cradles her newborn son in her arms.
They all saw much. I loved him.
They didn't have to take him from me.
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families shipped their pregnant teenage daughters
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They worked with them to manipulate me
and to steal my son away from me.
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modern evangelical right and the founder of Liberty University, where powerful men, emboldened
by their faith, determine who gets to be a parent and who must give their child away.
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But Georgia Tann didn't help families find new homes out of the goodness of her heart. She was stealing babies from happy families and selling them for profit.
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I feel like a legend.
It's 1993 and Rocky's personal life isn't going so great.
He and Pamela got divorced a couple years prior
and to make matters worse,
he's dealing with some health issues. He's got diabetes as well as hepatitis C. But what matters
most to Rocky is his work. And that part of his life is still going really well. So Rocky decides
to get a little experimental. He starts serving sushi at some of his restaurants. And he turns a portion of a Benihana in Miami into an art gallery full of Tiffany lamps
and Remington bronze sculptures.
He expands into a line of frozen dinners.
He even tries to sell a line of weight loss supplements called Rocky Aoki's Ultra Herbal
Power Slim.
Obviously not all of these experiments are successful.
But Rocky's a gambler.
As long as Benny Hanna's business keeps booming,
he can afford to take these kinds of bets.
Something tells me that pretty soon
you will not be able to make them, Sarah.
Well, around this time in October of 1993,
Rocky's approached by a businessman named Donald Kessler
about an opportunity
to make a little cash on the side.
We don't know exactly how these two met, but Donald is what's called a stock promoter.
Basically, a salesman who helps companies peddle their stock to potential buyers.
It's a job that walks a very fine line between social and shady.
Donald shares a tip about a stock he thinks Rocky should buy.
Now, Sachi, you and I both know how a story like this usually goes.
But Scanfluorancers wasn't around back then, so Rocky doesn't see what's coming.
He's more than happy to hear about this exciting opportunity that's definitely not fraud. I know Rocky is acting here as if he had no idea any of this was fraud.
I don't totally buy that because he very clearly is a really successful business owner and
now he's going to play stupid on how money works and how the stock market works.
I don't know about that.
I mean, some people are just dumb, Sashi.
Yeah, I just don't buy that he's dumb.
No, I'm joking.
I guess I just don't think that he's actually that dumb.
Too devious to be stupid, you know?
You can't show your hand that much.
Yeah, I mean, even if he didn't know, it's not really an excuse.
Well, Donald tells Rocky that the then chairman of Apple
is about to become the CEO of Spectrum Cable.
It's not public knowledge yet,
but Donald knows that once Spectrum makes the announcement,
their shares are going to skyrocket.
Rocky decides to use this tip from Donald to buy 200,000 shares.
And the tip pays off.
When Spectrum announces their new CEO,
their stock rises by almost 50%.
Rocky sells his shares and makes about $350,000 in profit.
He pays Donald $10,000 for his help with the deal.
But unfortunately, Rocky's about to lose more than this tip brought in.
Because this one bad bet will cut him off from his fortune,
his business empire, and worst of all, his family.
It's the late 90s, a few years after Rocky bought
those Spectrum shares under less than legit circumstances,
and his life has been turned upside down.
Even with his extreme sports accidents
and his tangled web of affairs,
Rocky has seemed untouchable until now.
It turns out that Donald,
the guy who gave Rocky that big stock tip,
spent the early 90s giving insider trading advice
to a lot of different people.
And now he's under investigation by the government.
In December of 1997,
Donald pleads guilty to tax evasion
and conspiracy to commit securities fraud.
As the feds dug deeper and deeper into Donald,
their investigation turned up many of the people
who paid him for illegal trading tips, including Rocky.
And in the summer of 1999,
a federal grand jury indicts Rocky on six counts of
insider trading and one count of conspiracy. He faces up to five years in prison and a
nearly $2 million fine. In preparation for his sentencing, Rocky's lawyer tells him
to give up all his positions at Benihana so the restaurant won't lose their liquor license.
And Rocky follows this advice.
He gets to stay on as a consultant, but he's not officially in charge of Benihana anymore.
He also transfers his interest in Benihana of Tokyo to a trust.
That's the half of the company that controls most of their restaurants. Three of his six kids are the trustees,
which means they now oversee most of his assets.
In the end, Rocky pleads guilty to insider trading,
but because of his health issues,
the judge lets him avoid jail time.
Instead, he just has to pay a $500,000 fine.
As you know, Sarah, I don't love jail and I'm not pro prison, but it is sort of
frustrating when you see these stories of like financial fraud and like a rich
person kind of gets a weird slap on the wrist.
Like even the businesses are still in his family's names.
Like they will continue to make money.
Yeah, exactly.
It just illuminates how some people are able to get away with things.
And, you know, other people never will.
Never will, yeah.
I mean, even when Rocky loses, he is still kind of winning.
He committed a serious crime, and he's getting off pretty much consequence-free.
He can afford the fine, and his business is still in the hands of his family.
But he's about to get caught up in a brand new relationship
that will change everything in his life,
for better and for worse.
It's 2001 and Keiko Ono is chatting with Rocky at a party.
Keiko's a former Miss Tokyo runner-up with long hair,
high cheekbones and charisma to burn.
She's tiny, energetic, and big into astrology.
For years, she's been making her way through the business world in a whirlwind of success and chaos.
In the 80s, she was a secretary for a Japanese politician,
and at some point, they started up an affair.
In 1988, Keiko moved to New York to start a luxury imports business.
Two years later, she brought the politician on board
as a business partner,
and they rekindled the relationship.
But pretty soon, things between them went south.
They broke up, which began a huge legal battle
over their company.
The whole thing ended with Keiko leaving the business
and suing her former partner,
who settled with her out of court.
That's when Keiko starts a new company,
a consultancy where she tells corporations
how to win business in Asia.
She starts working with big names like Wonder Bra,
Starwood Hotels, and of course, Benihana.
Keiko and Rocky get really close really fast.
They stay pretty private about their relationship,
so we don't know too much about the courtship phase.
But it's not hard to imagine
why they found each other so compelling.
Between their business ambitions and their dramatic pasts,
they're a match made in heaven.
But in the Y2K era, the man Keiko falls in love with isn't a
fast-living, hard-partying mogul anymore. Rocky's only 63 years old, but his health
just keeps getting worse. He's still suffering from diabetes and hepatitis C,
and now he's got liver disease as well. For the first time in his life, he's
really slowing down. But Keiko jumps into the task of taking care of Rocky.
She decorates a new minimalist apartment for them
in a fancy building in Midtown,
and she makes sure he's healthy enough
for his weekly backgammon game.
Keiko and Rocky are head over heels in love.
Rocky tells a reporter, quote,
I would be dead without her.
I do think that's probably true.
I think it's true for most marriages.
Yeah, honestly, most men would be dead without their wives.
So in 2002, less than a year into their relationship,
Keiko and Rocky get married at City Hall
on a date chosen by Keiko's astrologer. It's a happy day for them, but they decide to not tell either of their families about
their wedding until it's over.
When Keiko and Rocky first got together, the Aoki children seemed cautiously optimistic.
Kana even said she was happy her father had found love again.
But as their relationship progressed, Rocky's kids started
worrying that Keiko was influencing his life too much. Hence the whole secret wedding.
If Rocky's kids have anything negative to say about his marriage, he and Keiko don't
want it getting in the way of their big day. But hiding their wedding will have consequences
that reverberate in the family and across every Benihana franchise for decades to come.
It's 2002 at a ritzy Italian restaurant
in the West Village.
Vintage light fixtures cast a warm glow
over a small dining room.
The two eldest Aoki kids, Kana and Kevin,
are sitting at one of the restaurant's small tables
staring at their father and his brand new wife, Keiko.
The happy couple invited them here to clear the air after their surprise wedding.
But the Aoki heirs have something else in mind.
Over dessert, Kana presents Keiko with an untraditional wedding gift,
a postnup. It renounces any steak she might have in Benihana.
As you might imagine, Keiko refuses to sign it.
While the spite is happening,
Rocky just sits there eating silently.
The whole scene is incredibly awkward for everyone.
It is crazy to think you're going to present a post-nup to your very wealthy father's weird
new wife and she would be like, word.
Yeah, I mean, I think these kids definitely see themselves as far more powerful than they
are.
Yeah.
At this point, the Yaoki children are all grown up. Kevin is 35 and Kana is 36.
And despite, or maybe because of their tumultuous upbringing,
the siblings are all pretty close.
Rocky may have made some mistakes as a father,
but he always made sure his kids
spent quality time together.
By now, some of the younger Aoki's
have started to make their way in the world
through several usual Nepo Baby channels.
Devin is a model slash actress who famously appears in the Fast and Furious franchise
and who also dates Lenny Kravitz, and Steve owns a record label.
He's also been DJing under the name Kid Millionaire, which he claims is a joke about
the fact that he actually doesn't have money from his father.
On the other hand, Steve's brother Kevin wants to work in the restaurant business like
his dad.
He's currently serving on Benny Hanna's board.
Each of Rocky's kids inherited a little bit of their dad's personality.
Steve is rambunctious and extroverted, while Kevin and Devin both share his head for business.
When they're all together, they repeat Rocky's favorite joke like a mantra. Money isn't everything, just 99%.
Great dad joke lands really poorly considering what's happening to this family.
Well, I mean, low key true considering what's happening to this family. Yeah, maybe that's
why I don't like it. Okay, it works.
The Aoki kids actually take this model pretty seriously
because they have a vested interest
in keeping their father's multi-million dollar empire thriving.
After all, building up this chain of restaurants
has been Rocky's singular focus for their entire lives.
So when they hear that their dad has gotten secretly married
to a woman he's known for mere months, they freak out.
The kids have been noticing the impact Keiko's having on their father.
Even though his health is stable, they barely see him anymore.
Steve will later tell a reporter that he thinks this is a direct result of Keiko's influence.
In Keiko's opinion, she doesn't need their approval.
Sachi, can you read what she later tells a reporter
about their dynamic?
Of course the wife influences the husband.
The husband influences the wife.
That's why he got married.
But it's not putting a gun to a head.
That's not the relationship we had.
I mean, this is how marriage works.
This is what happens to married couples.
Yes, and as long as Rocky's happy, Keiko is too.
And it seems like he really is.
But by the end of this dinner, nobody's happy.
And after this, Kana and Kevin are furious
that they can't get through to their father.
They see Keiko as an obstacle
standing between them and Rocky,
not to mention his estate.
They're ready to fight for what they think is theirs.
But as this battle heats up,
it's clear that it'll be long and bitter
and cost them more than just millions of dollars
in legal fees.
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In 2002, after Keiko refuses to sign the post-nup, tension in the Aoki family reaches an all-time high.
Rocky will later claim that in this period, Kevin even hires a private detective to dig
up dirt on Keiko.
It's extreme, but to Kevin, the question of who's in charge of his dad's estate feels
particularly urgent.
Rocky's only 65, but his health keeps declining, and it's not clear how much time they have left to sort things out.
Kevin gets his siblings together.
Alongside Rocky's lawyer, they draft a document that would give them irrevocable control of the trust. Rocky signs it, but almost immediately after,
he changes his mind and says
he didn't understand what he was signing.
And then he starts revising his will.
This is where things start to get really messy.
The first change in 2003 gives Keiko
75% control over his assets.
He later says he hoped this would make his kids, quote,
realize that making peace with her
would be the best possible course of action
and would bring everyone together.
I can't think of a worse plan to bring everybody together
than giving your wife 75% control over your assets
you've known her for just a little while.
Well, yes, Sachi, obviously this doesn't work. your wife 75% control over your assets you've known her for just a little while.
Well, yes, Sachi, obviously this doesn't work.
Instead, the kids watch in horror as Rocky keeps revising his will.
He changes it three more times and hands over more of his estate to Keiko each revision.
His kids are getting the message.
If they don't get on board with their dad's new partner, they might be cut out altogether.
But as it turns out, it's not just the Aoki children
who are nervous about Keiko's influence.
In 2004, Benihana's board grows concerned
about the possibility of her owning the company.
Kevin, who's on the board, plays a part
in their next decision.
The board issues new stock, which shrinks the Aoki family's stake in the company.
This means Keiko's potential power
over the whole enterprise is reduced,
but it also lowers the value of the company.
Rocky is pissed, especially at his oldest son.
Kevin's supposed to be helping the company grow,
not devaluing it.
By 2006, Kevin isn't the only Aoki
whose relationship with their dad is suffering.
Devin and DJ Steve are making their own money,
so they've managed to keep some distance
from the fight over the business.
But the other four kids, Kevin, Kana, Kyle, and Echo,
are deep into this legal battle.
In 2006, Rocky disinherits them,
seeks to have them removed as trustees,
and stops speaking to them entirely.
He even files a lawsuit against them,
saying they're trying to rest control of the company
from him just because they hate his wife.
There's one more truly brutal detail in all of this.
Since Rocky is technically a consultant at Benihana,
he doesn't get paid by the company directly,
so he's pulling money from the Benihana of Tokyo Trust.
At this point, that's his main source of income.
Before all this petty legal back and forth,
he would simply call up one of his kids and ask them to withdraw some cash for him.
But now it's way more fraught.
At one point, he asks if they can send him $1.5 million
and they send him $150,000 instead.
Well, he starts selling things off,
like his beloved $5 million townhouse
full of expensive
art and souvenirs from his long wildlife.
And all this legal drama keeps making Rocky sicker and sadder.
He just wants everyone he loves to get along.
In 2006, Rocky talks to a reporter from New York Magazine about the situation.
Sachi, can you read what he tells them?
He says, I want to help my kids,
but I want my children to crawl, to walk,
then run on their own.
Then I help them.
But they can't even crawl.
They just collect money and do nothing.
What else do they want?
Can't wait till I'm dead?
Oh, God.
I mean, true, but also, you built them that way.
I know.
I mean, if your family motto is jokingly like,
money isn't everything, except it is, it's just 99%.
What do you think you instilled in them, right?
Yeah.
But it turns out death isn't as far away as he thinks.
In 2007, Rocky is diagnosed with liver cancer,
and he doesn't have long to live.
His six kids might lose their father while in the middle of a huge legal battle.
And the question of who actually owns Benihana is suddenly more important than ever.
It's October of 2007, five years since Keiko and Rocky got married and the family started their feud.
But today their battle is on pause.
Rocky, Keiko, most of his kids
and two of his grandchildren are all gathered together.
And this time they're not in a courtroom
or in front of a reporter.
Instead, they're in the private room
at the back of an Indian restaurant in New York City.
It's Rocky's 69th birthday, and they're all here to celebrate him.
The kids sing songs, read cards, and reminisce about their childhood.
It's a bright spot in the darkness that's taken over the family for the last five years.
Nobody talks about the trust or the lawsuits.
They just get to be together.
Through all the lawsuits and paperwork, Rocky's been wanting to make peace with his kids.
It's safe to assume that he's been thinking about his own father as he stares down his own
mortality. The two of them were still feuding bitterly over the original Benihana right up until the months before his father's death.
Sachi, can you read this quote Rocky gave to a biographer
about their relationship?
He said, quote,
"'I never had the chance to tell my father
some of the things I wanted to.
Something like, well, I might've been wrong sometimes.
And my father never admitted that he had done anything wrong.
But as I think about it, maybe I never gave him the chance.
Oh boy, this is real end-of-life stuff.
That is stuff you genuinely just, like, don't really want to think about.
Yeah. Well, you don't think about it until it's too late.
Yeah. Well, less than a year later, in July of 2008, Rocky dies of liver cancer.
Just like his father did 29 years earlier.
Unfortunately, whatever closure his kids might have gotten
at that last birthday dinner is about to evaporate.
The battle between his surviving family members is back on.
And with Rocky gone,
Keiko is determined to carry on his legacy at any cost.
On a summer evening in 2008, Mako is determined to carry on his legacy at any cost.
On a summer evening in 2008, a week after Rocky's death, the Aoki family files into a funeral chapel
on the Upper East Side.
The ceremony is private,
though news of Rocky's death has New York buzzing.
Page Six even followed Devon into Bergdorf Goodman
a few days earlier as she
shopped for a black dress and dark sunglasses.
Right after Rocky's death, a family spokesperson issued a statement to the public telling the
world that his six kids and Keiko, quote, all made peace with him at his bedside. But
Rocky's death doesn't reduce the tension between his widow and his kids.
In fact, it just makes everything worse.
Remember, Benihana is still split into two separate companies.
There's Benihana of Tokyo, which owns some of the restaurants as well as the trust, and
then there's Benihana Inc., which owns the rest.
The split was already complicated when Rocky gave up control of both companies.
But now that he's gone, things are about to get even messier.
The rules of the trust clearly state that it will be dissolved once Rocky dies.
This means his kids completely lose access to the company.
Overnight, they lose any sway they had over Benny Hanna's finances.
Meanwhile, thanks to all the changes Rocky made to his will,
Keiko is the sole heiress to his estate.
In 2010, two years after Rocky's death,
Keiko declares herself the CEO of Benihana of Tokyo.
And right away, she starts making changes to the business,
claiming she's only following in her ex-husband's footsteps.
And just like Rocky used to, Keiko tries new things
in an attempt to boost Benihana's profile.
She opens up new locations around the world
and adds something called the Benny Burger to the menu.
She even brings in hip hop dancers called the Benny Girls
to spice things up at the Benny Hana locations she controls.
And Sachi, before you ask,
yes, I do have a YouTube video
of one of these dance performances
for us to watch together.
Sarah, as you know,
I think it is embarrassing when people dance.
I think it's especially embarrassing
to dance wearing a chef's hat and holding a spatula.
And that is what they are doing here.
It's bad. While also is what they are doing here.
It's bad.
Well, also wearing some pretty cool ripped jeans.
Well, they slowly undress over the course of the video.
Things, they eventually are wearing t-shirt and ripped jeans
and then they make everybody else dance with them
and it is brutal.
This is a brutalizing watch
and I resent you for making me look at it.
Well, we're going to learn the dance.
But also remember, there are two companies that control the brand.
Keiko may be the CEO of Benihana of Tokyo, but Benihana Inc., the other company,
still has control over the other Benihana franchises.
In 2012, that company gets bought out by an investment firm for $296 million.
The firm approaches Keiko to see if she'll sell her company,
but of course, she refuses.
From there, things just get pettier and pettier.
Keiko, the kids, and Benihana Inc.
start throwing lawsuits back and forth like confetti.
They sue each other over whether Keiko can serve garlic butter on her Benny burger.
They sue over the look of their websites and the best way for Benihana chefs to bank salt and pepper shakers together.
And of course, they sue each other over whether the Benny girls
cheapen the brand's image.
Oh, boy, they do.
There is no doubt about that.
I mean, who doesn't love a little song and dance, you know?
Well, at this point, there are so many lawsuits
that it takes years for the courts
to sort through them all.
In 2014, a judge awards Steve and Devin
the Benny Hana of Tokyo Trust.
Since they're the only two kids Rocky never disinherited, each of them gets 50% of the
trust, though they have to wait until they turn 45 to access it.
In November 2022, on his 45th birthday, Steve inherited his share.
Though, since he already added a foam pit and a pool to his $2.7 million house,
he didn't really seem to need it.
But things in the Yaoki family are still simmering.
As of March, 2024, a judge denied the kids' motion
to remove Keiko as a trustee from the trust.
Turns out when you build a business on onion volcanoes,
some things never stop erupting.
Sachi, clearly the downfall of all this was Rocky
either being swindled by a scam or intentionally scamming.
Who can really say?
But do you think this type of fallout
would have been inevitable,
even if he hadn't gone through all that
as far as the scam goes and having to like like, leave his company in a certain respect.
I don't know, maybe.
It seems like he was building an unstable empire,
even amongst his children.
Like, I don't know.
But the only thing illegal that he did
was the insider trading, right?
That we know of, yeah.
Right.
I don't know.
It feels a little like a family where it was inevitable
that they were gonna have this big fight.
I mean, money is bad for people. It's really bad for people.
Not me. If I had it, that would never happen.
You have enough.
You know, I also do think one thing we focus on is how he did insider trading, he got caught,
he could have gone to prison and paid a ton of money, but he gets off relatively easily.
But ultimately he kind of doesn't because his life does implode.
He dies young.
He dies relatively young.
And it's almost like this weird consequence of living this fast life where he was like
more, more, more, more, more.
Yeah.
You famously have many stances on marriage.
Hearing stories like this, like, what do you glean?
Outside of, no one should get married, everyone should be divorced.
But like, what do you take away from something like this?
I mean, I don't think there's anything good
that will come out of a second, third, or fourth marriage, certainly.
I guess I just don't buy that Keiko is like an evil force.
I think he probably didn't talk enough to his kids.
But I don't know.
Yeah, I mean, in so many situations,
even like just real life hearing someone talk
about a stepparent or someone their parent marries,
it's always like this like enormous amount of blame
on the person who enters their family.
Like she changed everything.
And it's like, listen, this isn't a value judgment
on Keiko, whether or not she influenced him or not.
Like, we are talking about, like, a man who's made many bad choices,
who's capable of doing any sort of crazy thing.
A guy who had his secret mistress, you know, watch him at his, like, weird boat show.
You know what I mean?
He wasn't, like, above board before. And now these kids are sort of acting as if it's
just because of this new marriage that their dad is acting unethically and it's like he's
actually been doing it for a minute.
I mean, I don't know if my dad like had a whole second family, I also probably wouldn't
trust him with the business either.
Yeah, just don't really know if Keiko is like this evil genius.
I think she was kind of just smart and gave him what seems to be a pretty good end of life
as someone who was quite ill and in a lot of pain, right?
Yeah. I mean, the tricky thing with these sorts of like family dynasty things
is that the kids sometimes have an expectation that the business should and will go to them,
but like nothing is owed to you.
Even if your dad owns a business or whatever, he has money,
like, it doesn't necessarily mean it will go to you
just because you are the child.
And it doesn't mean that he wanted it to.
I mean, the story is really a testament
to why you should leave very clear instructions
after you die.
Everybody should have a will.
What's some fun stuff you'd put in your will, you know?
Well, what I'd put in my will, I would make sure someone trustworthy took my cat,
and then I would tell all of you guys to fight for the death over my journals,
which feature many unsavory and characteristically unkind things about lots of people.
And whoever wins them gets to do whatever they want with them,
and they will be profitable.
Okay, and do you give me permission to use your voice
for future kind of AI type things
so I can get you to say whatever I want?
Like, can I have that?
I assume you're already doing that now.
Amazing. That's all I wanted.
I'm just gonna have you say really nice things to me.
It's an interesting use of so much power. Yeah. You're like, great job, Sarah. I always believed in
you. No one would believe you. Loving scamfluencers? Get exclusive episodes and early access to new
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This is Rocky Aoki, hibachi's a bitch and then you die.
I'm Sarah Hagge.
And I'm Sachi Cole.
If you have a tip for us on a story
that you think we should cover,
please email us at scamfluencers at Wondery.com.
We use many sources in our research.
A few that were particularly helpful were
The Crazy Bitter Battle Over Betty Hanna
by Erica Fry in Fortune Magazine,
Rocky's Family Horror Show by Logan Hill
in New York Magazine,
and A Flower in the Debris by Mayuk Sen and The Ringer. Emma Healy wrote this episode.
Additional writing by us, Sacha Cole and Sarah Hegge.
Olivia Briley is our story editor.
Fact Checking by Lexi Pirri.
Sound Design by James Morgan.
Additional audio assistance provided by Augustine Lim.
Our music supervisor is Scott Velazquez for Freesan Sync.
Our managing producer is Desi Blaylock.
Our senior managing producer is Callum Flews.
Janine Cornelow and Stephanie Jens
are our development producers.
Our associate producer is Charlotte Miller.
Our producer is Julie Magruder.
Our senior producers are Sarah Enni and Ginny Bloom.
Our executive producers are Jenny Lauer Beckman,
Marshall Louie, and Aaron O' Erin Oflarity for Wondery.
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