Search Engine - Where’s the best free restaurant bread in America?

Episode Date: April 24, 2026

An enterprising reporter goes on a quest to find the restaurant serving the absolute best free bread in this country, and finds it. She returns to Search Engine with her results.  Read Caity Weaver�...�s story. Support the show!

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Starting point is 00:00:00 Hello, quick note before we start the show. Search engine exists because a small but mighty portion of our listeners actually pay to keep us running. They subscribe to our premium tier, which is called Incognito mode. It's $7 a month, or $50 for the full year. Those listeners get ad-free episodes, bonus episodes, and discounts on our merch. But really, the thing that they do is they make this show work. Right now, we are in production planning for our next season, trying to figure out. out the size of the big swings we can take, the amount of episodes we can do. If our show has
Starting point is 00:00:36 kept you company on some long commutes or given you something to talk about at the dinner table, and if you're in a position to do it, we'd really appreciate your support. It is a total pleasure to make this show for you. If you're interested, you can sign up at search engine. Dot show. Incognito mode. Searchengine.com. 50 bucks a year. I feel like I'm doing an ad for us. Okay. This week's episode, starting now. Who are you? Can you identify yourself? I'm Katie Weaver, a staff writer at the Atlantic. And what kinds of stories do you normally report?
Starting point is 00:01:32 How do you characterize your work for people that are not familiar with it? Oh, my God. I still don't have a great answer to this question. Sometimes when you tell people you're a writer, or I don't even say journalist, although maybe technically they thank you for the good work that you do. And I always have to say, oh, I don't do that kind of stuff. So I don't do anything important. I get to do fun stories about whatever. This is a ruse.
Starting point is 00:01:56 Katie doesn't actually do fun stories about whatever. She pretends to. A normal Katie Weaver story starts with something that feels defiantly superficial, a profile of Kim Kardashian, or an investigation into the question, what is glitter made out of? And then unspools and becomes something else, while insisting the whole time that it's not. The glitter question, for instance, led her to an industrial glitter manufacturer in New Jersey
Starting point is 00:02:21 who adamantly refuses to say who their biggest buyer is, leading Katie into a 3,000-word, paranoid industrial mystery that reads like a thriller. I won't ruin the ending, but that's a Katie Weaver story. Recently, Katie started wondering about something that feels typically Katie Weaver-esque, a question that was weirdly both large and small. This is a question that I have been obsessed with for years.
Starting point is 00:02:47 What is the best free restaurant bread in America? The best free restaurant bread in America. Why? Why did you want for years the answer to this question? Because I have a very simple mind. And so I would eat free restaurant bread. And if it was particularly good, I would think, is this a free restaurant bread in America?
Starting point is 00:03:04 It was kind of inspired by, well, actually, it was directly inspired by a restaurant in Atlanta called Bones that I went to a few times with my husband, who's from Atlanta. And this restaurant had a particularly good free bread. I really, really, really loved the beautiful, like, gold. It was just a perfect bread. It was like when you think of bread, this is what you think of to me.
Starting point is 00:03:30 It didn't really have anything in it. It wasn't trying to do anything crazy. It was just happy to be perfect bread. And when I would eat it, I would think, is this the best free bread? This really might be the best free bread. And I was kind of starting to convince myself that it was. But then in the back of my mind, I was like, what if it's not the best free bread? As good as this is, what if there's another bread that is also free that is even better?
Starting point is 00:03:53 But why is it important? Like, I'm... Do you, why is it hard for you to understand why someone would want the best free restaurant bread in America? Does that sound like something you would not want? I understand. I just want to make sure that some listener who doesn't immediately understand what I understand. I mean, I know the feeling of I've had a couple experiences, not a free bread, but where I'm out of place and I'm like, this might be the best version of this thing that exists on Earth right now.
Starting point is 00:04:22 Yeah. And that's exciting. Yeah. And I've also had the feeling of I would like to know if that was true. And then immediately I thought, but I can't know if it's true. And then I thought, and that's okay. You're a quitter. You gave up. What if? What if you could find out if it was true?
Starting point is 00:04:39 So, Katie, not a quitter, fell deep into finding the answer to her maybe impossible question. She began to research, in fact, the entire history of free bread at restaurants as a human tradition, which then led her to the entire prehistory of bread itself as a meal that people eat. Here's what she learned. She learned that for much of the time human beings have been on earth, some form of bread has been our most commonly eaten meal. Unleavened bread for most of that time, but bread. For most of human history, people did not pay money for that bread,
Starting point is 00:05:12 but only because for most of human history, money did not yet exist, not because the bread itself was free. Taverns first appear around 2000 BC in Mesopotamia and continue as late as the 19th century in America. A tavern is a place where you can eat a meal someone else has made for you, for money, but you don't get to choose the meal. You just pay for the one fixed meal they offer, which often was something like beer and bread.
Starting point is 00:05:38 Bread you were paying for. Free bread can be food. not exist until restaurants do. And Katie says that restaurants are actually a pretty modern phenomenon. So restaurants, where you can pick your own food and then they bring it and you pay just per item, are really fairly new concepts. The one that is generally regarded as being like the first restaurant in the United States is Delmonicos here in New York City. And that began operating in the 1830s. That's how recent. Yeah. Isn't that crazy? That is crazy. Yeah. It seems like a good idea, but people we just weren't doing it this way before.
Starting point is 00:06:13 And so they're the first people we think who were like, what if people could choose and then you could charge them different amounts of money? Well, they, I think, described this as like a French experience. So they were maybe the people who popularized it in the U.S., we should say. And when they start it, do they offer free bread? So it's a little bit hard to tell. It seems like yes.
Starting point is 00:06:32 But starting, you know, from back then through now, people just don't put free bread on their menu. It doesn't say don't worry you're going to get bread. So even though you can sometimes find menus from very, very old restaurants, it won't say that there's free bread because they just don't advertise it. You know that feeling you sometimes get where you're like trying to understand something that happened in long ago history? And you can see that there was like, you can see there's something that text isn't
Starting point is 00:06:56 mentioning. And there's almost like a profound sadness of like trying to squint at the past and not quite seeing it. It's funny to me that restaurant bread is like one of those things. You're right. It's heartbreaking to think about. You're right. Yeah, yeah.
Starting point is 00:07:12 Well, so I found what I think is probably the first restaurant review in the United States. It was published in the New York Times, which is, I mean, it's really funny to read because it's very kind of meta. It opens with the writer explaining that his boss gave him this crazy assignment, like, go out and eat and report what people are eating. And he has to sort of explain to the reader that he's doing this because, like, it's a totally novel premise. He's just like, okay, now what you're going to read is me going to restaurants and talking about what I find there. And he mentions bread at different places. And he doesn't say that you're charged for the bread or da-da-da. So you can kind of infer from how he phrased it that it's just being handed out.
Starting point is 00:07:54 Okay. So we think that this, I'm just trying to trace where we're coming from. So we think that free bread restaurants exist because before there were restaurants, there were taverns. Bread would have been a big part of the meal because bread was relatively cheap. once restaurants become a thing, bread stays on probably because people are used to it, because it's a cheap way for the restaurant to kind of like signal hospitality. Yes, totally. Because people are going to complain in some cases if they don't get it.
Starting point is 00:08:20 Yes, as a marker of hospitality, I think that's a good way to put it. And also, people were always used to eating bread. I asked a historian who I interviewed for the article, you know, where did free restaurant bread come from? And he said that it's the opposite of what you ask. It's always been here. And it's only recently that it's kind of disappearing. and a lot of restaurants now charge you for bread. I find that disgusting.
Starting point is 00:08:40 I hate it. No, it could be the absolute best bread in the world. It will not taste as good to me. If I have to pay $1 for it, I'll say, okay. I would rather have a less good bread for free. That would make me happier. But of course, what would make Katie happiest is knowing that she was eating the best free bread in America,
Starting point is 00:09:06 a country of between $750,000 and one million restaurants. After a short break, the experiment, the methodology, the investigation, the results. It's after these ads. Welcome back to the show. So I want to get into your methodology and your results. How do you even set out to understand a question like this? Because it's not like you're not a magazine writer in the 1990s. You're not going to go to every single restaurant in America.
Starting point is 00:09:59 So what do you do today? Like what's step one? Okay. Stuff one was, I just decided to ask every single person I could think of, everyone I ran into, like, everyone I know, what's the best for your restaurant bread in America? And I started tracking all their responses. Tracking how? I made a little spreadsheet for myself. And I would just put, you know, the restaurant location, who told me this? And sometimes it was, you know, someone I knew. And sometimes it was like, cousin's friend. And then I would tally the number of votes. And also if they gave notes, if they described the bread in any way, I would put that down. So. So, you know, if they said it was really pillowy or if they, some, I remember one woman remembered the color napkin that the basket is served with. It was with a black napkin.
Starting point is 00:10:40 And that was like, it really stood out in her mind. So I ended up amassing several hundred responses this way. I also should say the Atlantic, I think, tweeted it out and put the link a couple times in one of our email newsletters. So I got some responses that way. But a lot of it was really just me directly asking. strangers, like if I was in an elevator or someone, I was going to ask them, what's the best free restaurant bread in America?
Starting point is 00:11:07 Here's what Katie learned from her initial research. Chain restaurants were statistically overrepresented, not because they necessarily had the best free bread, but because they're everywhere. Katie made a mental note to find a way to adjust for that distortion in the data later. She learned that people listed both fancy restaurants, which they'd apologize for, and unfancy restaurants, which they would not apologize for, and that many people memories of great free bread clustered in their childhoods.
Starting point is 00:11:35 At restaurants, their parents had taken them too. Katie's dad was still alive during her survey, and when she asked him about his favorite free bread, his answer surprised her. So his answer was bread that he was served in the 1960s at the Four Seasons in Manhattan.
Starting point is 00:11:52 And I didn't even know my dad had ever been there. Very fancy place. Super fancy place. My dad was not a fancy guy. So yet that was how I found out that he even gone to this restaurant, was that he remembered the bread. And why was he at the Four Seasons? He was at the Four Seasons because he was visiting his dad, who he did not grow up with.
Starting point is 00:12:13 His dad was pretty much out of his life. He saw a few times over the course of his life, I want to say. And he and my uncle had gone to New York to visit him. And my dad said that my grandfather, who died before I was born, you know, liked to show off. And so he took his sons. And I think my dad was a teenager to the Four Seasons for lunch. And my dad remembered that the bread was warm. So it was like an emotionally complicated experience, but he remembers the bread being very good.
Starting point is 00:12:40 When I said, what's the best for your restaurant of bread? He said the only one that I can really remember, which also surprised me because I thought that any member of my immediate family would be like me. It would be like, oh, you know, it's this restaurant. Yeah, that was the one that just for some reason like really stuck in his mind as being the best. And were you seeing generally across your data? Like I understand that it's not like census. level perfect data. Almost.
Starting point is 00:13:04 And you're trying to lasso a cloud. Like, I think it's okay. But one population you attempted to survey were celebrities. Yes. First of all, why? Okay. I had a real reason for this because I thought, who has access to all the best restaurants in the world?
Starting point is 00:13:21 Celebrities. That's true. They can go anywhere and, you know, they can, they don't mind paying a lot for a meal. But, you know, many celebrities did not grow up wealthy. So I'm thinking if I became a celebrity, I would still be well aware of where I had eaten bread for free and where it was something I had to pay for. So I thought, oh, I'll just ask a bunch of America's beloved celebrities, where's the best of your restaurant bread in America? And they let me down. Well, I want to walk through them.
Starting point is 00:13:48 So LeBron James. You reached out to LeBron James. Too busy. Focused on the upcoming season. How's it going for you, LeBron? I actually don't know. Hope it paid off. What made me crazy was, you know, this is a question, even if you don't have an answer the second you hear it, as I do, with a few seconds of thought, I think you can come up with something.
Starting point is 00:14:11 Yeah. It doesn't take a long, I'm not asking you to go through your taxes and give me some, like, you know, just think of your life. There's something that happened in your life. Can you tell me about it in a couple words? They can. Chris Pratt. Chris Pratt was another person who reached out too. Okay, Chris Price, publicist's response, when it came in.
Starting point is 00:14:32 I do think they were trying to be polite. It was phrased so rudely. Here, right, let me get the exact quote. And the publicist responded, we need to politely hold off as there is an interest. You don't have to tell me that there is an interest. You say we need to politely hold off. Why do you think you were getting Stonewold on this stuff?
Starting point is 00:14:51 I don't know. I don't know. Do you think they felt like maybe this is a practical joke, like that there was some opportunity to belittle them? Or do you think that they thought that maybe when people talk about, even though food is something everyone eats, that there's something revealing or, like, it's hard to answer that question without it feeling like they're trying to signal in one direction or another? I don't know. I don't know if it's that their reps, like, didn't want to bother them with this. Some people, I think some people maybe thought that they could be being made to look foolish.
Starting point is 00:15:19 Like, you know, they wanted to know who else was participating. And it's like, what does it matter? Is it, what? Is your answer so crazy? that you're going to make a fool of yourself by giving it. I was so surprised by how few celebrities were willing to even entertain this question. I only got one. In the end, I only got one.
Starting point is 00:15:39 Who is that? Mr. Stephen King. And what did Stephen King have to say about free bread in America? Okay. Stephen King's favorite for red in America is, quote, crusty and warm, end quote, and is served at Hyde Park Prime Steakhouse, another state house, another state house, in Sarasota, Florida. And you know what?
Starting point is 00:15:55 That was all I needed. even need him to say it's crusty and warm, but I'm glad he did. That's the sign of a word smith. He's bringing the bread to life for you. All he had to say was Hyde Park Steakhouse. Great, done. So he went into your spreadsheet. He went in the spreadsheet. You also reached out to... He's only vote for that, but... But I put him there. So he's wrong, but... This is why the celebrities don't want to play your sick games. They don't want to be humiliated. And they lose either door that they pick. What could be more relatable than a celebrity revealing their favorite free restaurant bread?
Starting point is 00:16:30 They're going to look like a man of the people, a man who knows what bread is free and what isn't. They're going to look like someone who eats bread. That's the other thing that made me crazy. I honestly think they smelled a trap and didn't smell it well enough. I think they should have told their publicists not to write you even know because it's going to end up in your post. Many of the publicists did not. But the crazy thing to me was say anything. I'm not going to know if you're telling the truth.
Starting point is 00:16:52 You can pick whatever restaurant you like. Just say anything. It doesn't matter. And it'll call me down. But no. They wouldn't. They refused. You also reached out to the CEO of Red Lobster.
Starting point is 00:17:05 Why and what did you learn? Okay. I love cheddar bay biscuits. I'm an American. We all love cheddar bay biscuits. Why are they so good? Oh, my God. I don't know what the hell they're putting in them.
Starting point is 00:17:14 But they are just, they're soft and warm and really salty. they're shiny with butter. Oh, I've had these biscuits. See? These biscuits are tremendously good. There we go. They have like some Domino's pizza DNA in them somehow. Like they give me like the feeling I like from Domino's, like the breadsticks there.
Starting point is 00:17:34 Like there's something really greasy about that. Yes. Oh, God, yes. Yeah. In a positive way. Yes. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Okay.
Starting point is 00:17:42 Wait, can you continue to describe these biscuits though? Yeah. Okay, so they are, what's this size? Hockey Buck. I don't really know how big anything is. Apple? No, smaller than an apple. I'm looking at my fist and thinking of things that are smaller than it.
Starting point is 00:17:58 Egg? My fist years ago as a child is probably the size of these biscuits. Maybe like a kiwi and a half. Okay. Flaky, buttery, greasy. I don't know if they're even flaky. Like I couldn't, the texture of them, you're never going to eat anything else that has this texture or this taste. They are warm, salty, buttery.
Starting point is 00:18:22 Oh, I think they have garlic in them. And they will keep them coming. They'll keep them coming. And they're free. And they're free. They're absolutely free. Free biscuits feels like a luxury. Yes.
Starting point is 00:18:33 And so, okay, but then why? Like, they were just on your list probably. They were, you know, a lot of people named them. They are my personal favorite of the chain breads. And they're also something, even people who, who kind of were struggling to come up with the favorite free bread would often think of red lobster. It was a bread that is distinct in many people's minds.
Starting point is 00:18:57 And maybe they would say, oh, you know, Red Lobster, but they were trying to come up with something maybe that wasn't a chain or that they're like more... But this was their real answer. But it was maybe not even their real answer, but it was just what they could think of. It was like their brain is kind of frantically scanning for files labeled bread,
Starting point is 00:19:12 and Red Lobster is one of the only ones they can pull. So what did you want to know from their CEO? anything at all. I want to know what are you putting in these cracked out biscuits that is making them
Starting point is 00:19:22 so good. I would be very curious to know they seem like they must be of tremendous importance to Red Lobster
Starting point is 00:19:31 because definitely for myself and for many people who I spoke to the biscuits are truly why you go to Red Lobster. The food
Starting point is 00:19:37 at Red Lobster is whatever but you know that you can have as many of those biscuits as you want while you're there.
Starting point is 00:19:41 So it's almost like Red Lobster is a Cheddar Bay Biscuits restaurant and then also include like they have seafood options.
Starting point is 00:19:48 Yeah. And the best thing at the restaurant is this thing that it's giving away for free. That's very interesting to me. It's like a restaurant that is very, very strongly associated with bread in the American consciousness in 2026. Another one that came up, but not because people were voting for it a lot, was Olive Garden. People would say, oh, is everyone saying Olive Garden? Olive Garden actually performed kind of horrifically in my poll.
Starting point is 00:20:18 I think that's fair. People sort of associate it with bread, and maybe they even like the breadsticks, but even among chains, Olive Garden was not one of the top ones. Wait, but so what happened when you reached out to the Red Lobster see? So I was going through kind of third-party PR from that Red Lobster works with, and I had visions of myself like going down to Red Lobster HQ, going in the test kitchen. Maybe he and I are learning to bake the cherry bay biscuits.
Starting point is 00:20:46 I don't know. And I'll never find out because they would not let me get close to this man. They didn't refuse to participate. They offered me, you know, I could talk to like a kind of random VP of whatever. They were not as excited about the bread story as I was. I feel like a surprising amount of people in your reporting treated you like a journalist out for blood. Yes. And I'm not totally sure why?
Starting point is 00:21:13 The only person who saw me as a human was Stephen King. Or he just talks to monsters. Damn, good. Fair enough. But did you strike them from your list or did they stay on? Oh, no, I couldn't strike them from my list. You know, I'm tracking the data. So if they had had the most votes, I would have said, well, if they had the most votes
Starting point is 00:21:33 through my complicated equation that I eventually developed, then I would have said, okay, they're the best. Okay, so tell me your results. Okay. Who's number three? Number three might be red laughs. Okay. But it's sort of, it's a little bit hard to say because the equation that I eventually came up with took into account the number of locations and the number of votes.
Starting point is 00:21:58 Because the idea is that some places are going to be overrepresented survey because more people have been there. Yes. Whereas the best bread might be at a place that fewer people have been to. Yes. So you came up with some Haiti math to try to. Exactly. Yes, and I looped in a statistician, a professor emeritus of statistics
Starting point is 00:22:17 at the University of Cambridge to ask him, hey, I've collected all this data haphazardly. Can you make it into a magazine article for me? So he helped you refine it? No, he did not, but he did kind of explain the conundrum very well. He said, if a restaurant had 10 customers and 8 thought that it had the best bread, this would seem more impressive than if another restaurant
Starting point is 00:22:39 had 100 customers, and 10 thought it had the best bread. So the thing you're trying to say, what percentage of the people walk out of this place thinking it's the best bread in the world, not how many customers they have? Exactly, yes. So that's why it's a little bit hard to get to number three, because I think Red Lobster maybe had the third most votes overall numerically.
Starting point is 00:22:56 But that has as much to do with the denominator of people who have gone is the numerator of people who think it's awesome. Yes, so I really can only tell you kind of, I could tell you the chain restaurant that had the most votes. So this overall, on paper, is going to look like the best. free restaurant bread America because it has the most votes. So this is just raw votes. Cheesecake factory.
Starting point is 00:23:13 Cheesecake factory. Cheesecake factory. People love that bread. They love that brown bread. Have you had it? I have, but my memory is the cheesecake factory are the cheesecakes, not the bread. Okay. The bread's really good.
Starting point is 00:23:24 That's what people tell me. I, it was not my favorite free restaurant bread. And it's brown bread? It's brown bread. It's dark bread. Like what they eat in like Middle Earth or whatever? Absolutely. Yes.
Starting point is 00:23:34 We want breads that look like they involve more labor. different in some way. So this is like a dark brown bread. It looks healthy. It's not that healthy. Sticks out in people's mind because it's like, oh, this is a shade of bread I'm not seeing all the time. Did you try it? Of course. Yes, I tried it. And I thought it was perfectly fine. Some people think that it has chocolate in it, partly because of the color and also because they find that it tastes a little bit sweet. I really love sweets. I love sweet things. This bread to me was not sweet. It was sweet in the way that
Starting point is 00:24:09 You know, you get like a basil, like sorbet for dessert at a restaurant that doesn't have real desserts. Yeah. For some people, that's going to be sweet enough. For me, uh-uh, uh-uh, no. So I didn't consider this bread sweet. But they, you know, a lot of people named it. And specifically, the brown bread. So actually, Cheesecake Factory brings out a brown bread and a white kind of sourdough loaf.
Starting point is 00:24:33 But most people named the brown bread specifically. They would say Cheesecake Factory, brown bread. Cheesecake Factory's brown bread, the highest-ranking chain restaurant in Katie Weaver's survey. But what was the very best free bread in a non-chain restaurant? Where was that bread to be found?
Starting point is 00:25:00 Katie Weaver has the answer. She's going to share it with us after these ads. Welcome back to the show. So, the answer to the question we'd been hunting for this week, the winner of Katie Weaver's intensely reported American survey of free bread? I think there were ultimately two. two restaurants in the top 10 that were not chains.
Starting point is 00:25:58 And they were the only two in the top 10, I believe, that were not chains. And it turns out that they served the exact same bread because they were owned by the same person, even though they're different restaurants. So there are different restaurants, but same bread. Two different locations, same bread. One in Philly, one in D.C. And what are the restaurants? The restaurants are Le Diplomat in D.C. and Park in Philly.
Starting point is 00:26:17 And tell me about the restaurants and tell me about the bread. So the restaurants are owned by Steven Starr. Oh, very famous Philadelphia Restaurant. And I lived in Philadelphia for years, and I walked by Park many times, and I never went inside because I assumed it was too expensive. But actually, it's funny, a college friend of mine who still lives in Philly was the first vote for Park. And I was like, oh, I'm glad there's a Philly restaurant nominated. And then, like, people kept voting for Park. Park ended up with, of the two restaurants, even though they served the same bread, Park had slightly more votes.
Starting point is 00:26:43 It also feels like it's meaningful that people were identifying this as the best bread appearing in two different places. Like, that feels like a pretty strong signal. Yes, totally. And they were, this was a bread that. people tended to give a little bit more information about. They would describe the bread to me in detail. They would not always accurately. What types of things would they say about the street bread?
Starting point is 00:27:03 So the bread has cranberries in it, and some people would name that. Some people would say it had cherries in it. You know, they're just picking up that it has like some kind of reddish fruit. They, some people were seem kind of ashamed to be naming this bread. They were like, it's an army as one, but I have to say it. They noted the temperature, it arrives warm, that they serve it with the nice soft butter. It was just a bread that kind of similarly to the Red Lobster Cheddar Bay biscuits, this is a bread that sticks in people's mind. And so did you try the bread?
Starting point is 00:27:38 Absolutely. And? I loved it. It was great. It was great. The best? I think it might be. You know, I feel like this many people can't be wrong.
Starting point is 00:27:48 Many people are wronging about many things. I know, but I feel like they can't be. I'm not a scientist. But what was your experience of it? You ate it. Your subjective experience. So it reminded me of the scene in Willy Wonka where they try everlasting gobshoppers. And Willy Wonka explains that it's a great candy for children with very little pocket money.
Starting point is 00:28:10 Because it kind of gives you like a full. Wait, is that the everlasting gobstopper? I think so. He eats that candy where it's like a full meal. It's a full meal. And it like evolves as you're eating it. Like you feel like. Yes, and you get like soup and you move through the mains, and then you end a dessert.
Starting point is 00:28:24 And it sort of felt like that because it has this kind of nice, warm, rich, buttery, savory, nutty component with the walnuts. But then you also get the cranberry. So it's like you have the savory, you have the sweet. It is a thick, hearty bread. It really felt like a meal by itself. Like I could just have this and a glass of water and be good to go. like this is what people would have happily eaten 20,000 years ago, except for... Oh my God, they would have been over the moon to eat something this good.
Starting point is 00:28:56 I'm sure they weren't even bread this good. But yes, it's like bread, you know, it just felt like this could sustain my life. I could live off this bread. Did you feel... Obviously, this is a hard question to answer, but like eating it, did you feel either like certainty or at least satisfied that you had found the thing you were looking for? I was like, okay, this bread is really good. pretty freaking good. Everyone was right. Yeah. God, if I hadn't liked it, I don't know, because we
Starting point is 00:29:23 would have scrapped the story months in. It was a relief to find the bread really delicious. But if I hadn't liked it, you know, like the Cheesecake Factory bread, I would say it was ultimately slightly disappointed by because so many people loved that. But they disproportionately loved this other bread. And I think that the people who love this bread were right. I think it's really good. I mean, anyone else. is welcome to do a more thorough study than I have done. I think you're going to have trouble getting funding for such a study. I have probably pushed to the extreme outer limits of what anyone will tolerate in terms of time and money spent investigating this.
Starting point is 00:30:05 But you want people who have theories to continue to email you forever for the rest of your career? Honestly, yes. Really? Why not? I mean, if you really think you know the best one, I'll put it on my list to like my personal list of, oh, if I'm ever in, you know, know, St. Louis, I have to try this bread and see if it's better than the bread that I named the best. So you both found it and you feel like you're still looking? I guess so. I'm pretty confident I found it. And what did you learn from me the best free
Starting point is 00:30:30 restaurant bread in America? But I love the best free restaurant in America. That I love free bread. Okay, the name is the restaurant in Philly and DCR. Our park, P.A.R.C. It's French in Philly. Actually, they're both French, I guess, and Le Diplomat. in D.C. There's this thing you mentioned the story which I didn't totally like know what it meant to you. You mentioned this like
Starting point is 00:30:55 almost offhandedly where you say you talk about your dad getting sick. You talk about visiting him in Santa Fe and you describe how he'd ordered the Red Lobster Ultimate Feast which includes the biscuits but that he didn't finish his bread that he said it tasted like sawdust. What did that story mean to you?
Starting point is 00:31:11 Why did you mention it in the course of this reporting? So you know it's funny when my dad named the four seasons. I had actually been expecting him to say Routhor because I knew he loved that bread. And so I was surprised that he hadn't named it. And I guess I included it because maybe it was to show that I do also have like a real life where things happened to me. And it's not just like a crazy
Starting point is 00:31:41 adventure and dry and free bread like endlessly on someone else's dime like there. I was also like living a real life while I was reporting this story. Here's what confused me about the piece that I really loved and what it confused me about your reporting which I really loved. I mean, the thing that, like, a listener is not going to get from this interview is, like, the piece is, like, it's written in such an over-the-top, beautiful way. Like, there's these highly evocative sentences about the bread in different restaurants, and it's hyper-focusing on this small pleasure that can totally go unnoticed in your life. And then there's several times. You mention your dad. You mentioned what bread meant to him.
Starting point is 00:32:17 in the context of this complicated relationship with his dad. You mentioned briefly on this otherwise very, like, silly quest, this experience of being with him near the time when he was dying. And then Park, which is, like, the restaurant that ends up being the best one, he shows up there, too, where you say, like, he was from Philadelphia. It was the first time going to a city where he didn't know about it because he died. And it's just weird because it's like you have this person who's trying to answer, like, the smallest question in the world.
Starting point is 00:32:44 You're trying to marshal every, you're trying to marshal every, everyone's like focus and attention on this like tiny pleasure in the world that could go easily unnoticed. And then there's these just like background references to the fact that the person who's taking you on this adventure is also grieving. And I have like the intuition that these things are connected, but I don't totally understand. What do you think? Am I crazy? Or are these things connected to you? No, no, no. I think they are connected.
Starting point is 00:33:11 Well, part of it is also that my dad was someone who, it's so funny. He would describe himself as a gourmand, but had no money, and in many ways no one lived worse than this man. Like he grew up really, really poor in South Philly and had a lot of, as much later in life, had a lot of health problems and physical problems that he just, you know, he couldn't really get around very well. So his world became kind of very limited, but he still would not only think of. himself, but tell people, like, when they met him, he's like, well, I'm a gourmet. And he's like, are you? Because you're just, like, sitting in this room eating, like, McDonald's. But he's definitely someone who, it's funny.
Starting point is 00:34:01 You know, like, you could say he enjoyed the little things in life, but he also enjoyed, like, very fancy things in life. And he and my mom were kind of opposites in the sense that when they would go to a restaurant and look at the menu, my mom would invariably order whatever is the cheapest thing. And he would very often order the most expensive thing. So I don't know, I guess I really associate both of my parents with just the experience of being at restaurants and trying to figure out, are you getting your money's worth? And one way to ensure that you are is if the thing you're getting for free is really good, you know, good free bread that's you got to build that into the, you know, mental price of the meal. So I don't know, maybe that's one of the reasons why I worked him in.
Starting point is 00:34:40 It's also just the fact that it was happening at the same time. so truly I was flying around to these different places and he died before I went and tried the bread that I ultimately named the best. He knew I was working on the story
Starting point is 00:34:56 he was a big Atlantic fan and I am bummed that he didn't get to see my cover story. He would have been really excited about that and actually I took this job is when I was interviewing I mentioned that my
Starting point is 00:35:13 dad really liked it. And the woman I was interviewing with, it was our executive editor. So, oh, what's sadderous? What's on some tote bags? And actually, that is sort of like free bread to me. The fact that she just lightly was instantly, you know, she didn't know if I was going to take the job or not, but she's throwing out free tote bags just for the heck of it. And I was like, that's a classy move. I love this place. So it really, it's gave me early on, like, one of my first really good impressions of the Atlantic. I was like, they're going to send my father tote bags, even though they don't know if I'm going to take this job. And it's like they're going to give me incredible bread
Starting point is 00:35:46 even though they don't really know, they don't know what I'm going to order. They don't know if I'm going to order. I might have this bread and leave. I guess I'm just easily won over by very small token acts of kindness. Small token acts of kindness. Maybe that's what this is. Things people give you, even if they're comically small,
Starting point is 00:36:13 without the expectation they'll get something back. Fortune cookies and bank lollipops. Things most of us barely notice, but which one American writer completely obsesses over. Our country's foremost free-bred investigative journalist, Katie Weaver. Katie, thank you. Thank you. You can find Katie's article and all of her work these days over at the Atlantic.
Starting point is 00:36:37 Also, an important correction about fictional candy. While Willy Wonka's everlasting gobstopper is good for kids without much pocket money because it never gets smaller and changes colors and flavors, the candy that provides the sensation of a full meal is the three-course dinner chewing gum. Our apologies to Mr. Wonka. That's our show this week. If you're looking for a way to help our show in a very minor way,
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Starting point is 00:38:01 Theme, original composition, and mixing by Armin Bizarrian. Our production intern is Piper Dumont. This episode was fact-checked by Madeline LaPlante du B. Our executive producer is Leah Reese Dennis. Thanks to the rest of the team at Odyssey. Rob Morandi, Greg Cox, Eric Donnelly, Gainer Moore, current Josephina Francis, Kirk Courtney, and Hilary Schiff. If you have a business and would like to advertise on our show, please email us, PJVote85 at gmail.com, subject line, advertising. If you'd like to support our show as a listener, if you'd like ad-free episodes, zero reruns, and bonus episodes, please consider signing up for incognito mode, search engine.
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