Sleepy History - Barber Shops

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Starting point is 00:01:20 The patient of the barber is thought to have existed since around 5,000 BCE. In the early days, the barber's job was to cut hair, trim, and shave beards, and provide pampering treatments. But centuries later, some barbers would become known as barber surgeons. they were permitted to perform minor surgeries on their clientele. In this episode, we'll look at the tools, techniques, and barbershops of ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome. We'll discover the reason why medical practices were performed in the barbershops of medieval Europe and explore the origins of the barbershop quartet.

Starting point is 00:02:12 So just relax and let your mind drift as we explore the sleepy history of barbershops. It's a bright and sunny day in ancient Egypt. A man walks the winding alleyways of a busy souk in the direction of a grand temple. He carries a basket woven from reeds. It contains a razor made from bronze. a pumice stone and a small jar of ointment. Two guards stand as sentries at the entrance to the temple. As the man approaches, the bear nod and step aside, allowing him access. He is known to them, and today he has been entrusted with an important task. The man feels a sense

Starting point is 00:03:27 of anticipation as he enters the temple's main chamber. It's a lavishly decorated room, adorned with ceramics and tall columns etched with hieroglyphs. The room is cool and in the corner. A young boy plays a melodic tune on his lute, a small-stringed instrument. The sound of gentle, lilting music echoes throughout the space. Directly ahead, perched upon a jewel-encrusted throne, is the pharaoh. The man is invited to approach. He places his basket on the cold stone floor and lifts a cloth to reveal the contents. Taking out the bronze razor, he prepares his treatment. for he is the barber to ancient Egyptian nobility, and today he is faced with the daunting task of cutting the hair of the Pharaoh. It's thought that the barbering profession emerged in

Starting point is 00:04:52 ancient Egypt, around 5,000 BCE. At the time, some barbers were men of high standing, and they were respected for the services that they provided to the noble classes. It was common for barbers to travel to their appointments, all of the tools necessary to do their job, alongside oils such as frankincense and myrrh, and herbal remedies, to treat minor ailments. In addition to the oils and remedies, their best of the best of their bests, Baskets may have contained pieces of sharpened flint or oyster shells, later replaced by copper and bronze razors, as well as tweezers and pumice stones to smooth the skin. The pharaoh was one of the barber's main customers, followed by the city's priests. Every few days, priests had their entire bodies fully shaved.

Starting point is 00:06:14 As this was associated with cleanliness and purity, the day of a barber's visit was one of great anticipation. It was a chance for the men to relax, unwind, and feel good. Additionally, the Egyptians saw good hygiene and beauty, as a reflection of their respect for the gods. Their pristine appearance also extended to the afterlife. Some mummies discovered in ancient tombs had their hair styled during the embalming process.

Starting point is 00:07:02 A fatty substance was used as a kind of hair gel. This suggests that for the ancient Egyptians, a person's appearance, including their hairstyle, was part of their identity. Many Egyptians wore wigs, as it was considered more hygienic to keep hair short or shaved. Wealthy Egyptians wore elaborate wigs made of human or horsehair, while the lower classes had simpler wigs or head coverings. But even wig wearers needed to have their haircut, and barbers became integral to society. Interestingly, they were even depicted in artworks. One of the best known examples is a vivid scene from the tomb of Uzerhot. It shows men lining up for a haircut from a busy barber.

Starting point is 00:08:16 Over the years, barboring techniques continued to advance and improve. And by 1500 BCE, it's possible that ancient Egyptians were using spring scissors, an invention that may have originated in Mesopotamia. Spring scissors were an early type of bronze scissor. They were formed of two blades, which were connected by flexible metal. We don't know for certain whether the Egyptians used these scissors for cutting hair. The tools may have been used for other purposes, such as tailoring or surgery. Still, at some point, the introduction of this small instrument

Starting point is 00:09:18 would change the way that barbers worked forever. Around the 5th century BCE, ancient Greeks had established barbershops of sorts. The shops were bustling social hubs, often positioned in the agorra or marketplace of a town or city. In Athens, the barber shop was a place where people would gather to catch up on gossip and discuss politics and sports. The barber or kouros offered a variety of treatments. These ranged from trimming and styling

Starting point is 00:10:13 hair to shaving, cutting fingernails, and even giving massages. For Greek men, beards were seen signs of wisdom and virility. Therefore, trimming and sculpting the facial hair to perfection was of great importance. Lotions and palms made with olive oil would add fragrance during the styling process, alongside beeswax, and a substance similar to pomade, to ensure that that the look was just right. From ancient Greece, the concept of the barber shop was introduced to the Greek colonies in Sicily and then to Rome. According to Pliny the elder, Romans didn't shave their beards until 300 BCE. When a man named Dekinnius Minus moved from Sicily to Rome, he brought his barber with him and started a trend. In ancient Rome, barber shops were called tansrinite. Barbers

Starting point is 00:11:43 were known as tonserets, which came from the Latin word meaning to shear. Before their introduction, most men in Rome had attempted to cut their own hair. Or, if they were wealthy, they allowed their servants to do it for them. However, the barber's tools were tricky to master. Many decided to leave the task to those skilled enough to handle them. Although some barbers worked on the street, the barber shop, similar to those in Greece, became a place for men to assemble and discuss daily happenings in the city. The Roman shops were small, with open fronted excess. They were located in busy areas to entice passers-by. Inside, they would have been simple, practical spaces, with wooden benches for seating. Spring scissors were often used to give haircuts, but the Romans later came up with

Starting point is 00:13:14 the new improved design. By 100 CE, they had invented the pivot scissors. Pivot scissors were quite different from spring scissors. They were made from iron or bronze and had two blades that were connected to a central pivot point. This allowed hair cutting to become easier and more precise. Modern barbers still use these kinds of scissors today. Over time, Roman barber shops began to offer more elaborate services, including manicures, pedicures, and hair removal. However, the treatments were far from luxurious. Some depilitary ointments were made from toxic chemicals,

Starting point is 00:14:23 and they smelled rather unpleasant. The pasts used for hair removal were sometimes made from ingredients, such as pitch or resin. Blades used for shaving were often dull. And when this was the case, the stubble had to be rubbed smooth with a pumice stone. Tweezers were used for plucking sensitive underarm hair.

Starting point is 00:14:58 But for Roman men, the suffering was worth it. They saw their well-groomed and clean-shaven appearances as an extension of their personalities. It was important for them to look their best at all times when out in public. In medieval Europe, the barber shop was reinvented, As many barbers became barber surgeons, throughout the early and high middle ages, monks were some of the main medical practitioners, and surgeries were often performed inside monasteries. But this changed in 1215, during the fourth Lateran Council, summoned by Pope Innocent, The third, monks and priests were banned from shedding blood. The act was not befitting of their spiritual role. Essentially, this prohibited monks from performing surgical procedures. Monasteries had long relied on barbers to maintain monks' tonsures. This meant that barbers were already present in

Starting point is 00:16:36 monastic settings and could absorb medical knowledge gradually over time. Barbers also had a practical advantage, their familiarity with sharp blades and tools. Over time, barber surgeons became common in Europe. The new shops offered the usual haircuts and beard trims. But with the addition of medical surgery, services like tooth extraction and bone setting. One of their most sought after treatments was leaching. Leeches were seen as a natural form of anesthesia, and they were placed on the skin

Starting point is 00:17:31 to draw blood. They were used to treat a variety of ailments, from emotional outbursts and fever to balancing the body. also practiced a form of bloodletting known as cupping. It was used to balance the humors or fluids in the body and it was said to treat symptoms of epilepsy, inflammation, and even play. The process involved the barber surgeon placing heated cups on the skin. This helped to draw out any excess blood in the body that was causing illness. Although different guilds had been established throughout Europe with their

Starting point is 00:18:29 own guidelines, a turning point came in 1540. In England, an act of parliament merged two guilds into one, the fellowship of surgeons and the barber's company. King Henry VIII, alongside his own surgeons, Thomas Vickory merged the organizations to ensure that there was some form of professional oversight. It's thought that around this time the barbershop poll was introduced, or perhaps regulated for the first time. The United Company of Barber Surgeons issued a statute. Barbers were required to put red and white poles outside their shops, while surgeons were to use red poles. Although barbers were becoming commonplace in towns and cities, they weren't always confined to shops to ply their trade. Some were referred to as flying barbers, setting up stalls in marketplaces, or traveling to private

Starting point is 00:20:01 homes to treat wealthy patients. Many barbers preferred to conduct their business on the road, as maintaining a shop was expensive. Trips to the barbers were even mentioned in popular culture of the time. In Shakespeare's play, A Midsummer Night's Dream, written around 1595, the character bottom professors, I must to the barber's, monsieur, for me thinks. I am marvelous hairy about the face, and I am such a tender ass. If my hair do but tickle me, I must scratch. These humorous lines from Act 4 show how barber shops had become a part of everyday life. After a while, As medicine advanced, and more surgeons became academically trained at universities, the role of barber-surgeon disappeared.

Starting point is 00:21:19 A law was passed in France in 1743, stating that barbers could no longer practice surgery. In 1745, England followed suit, and other countries followed. the industries were separated. In England, the traditional colors of the Barbara's pole were red and white. But over in the United States, the poles were red, white, and blue. One theory is that the colors are a reference to the history of the profession, the work of barber surgeons. The color red on the pole represented arterial blood. White was to depict the bandages and blue symbolized venous blood. Another theory is that the colors were patriotic, representing the American flag. The 18th century, male personal grooming was on the rise. But one man who was not interested in

Starting point is 00:22:44 following such trends was Benjamin Franklin, one of the founding fathers of the United States. Unlike those in positions of authority in Europe, who relied on barbers and regularly wore wigs, Franklin preferred to be frugal and self-sufficient. His plain appearance was deliberately constructed. It was important for him to portray an image of authenticity and practicality to the public. Whether or not Franklin used a barber himself, he seems to have had a low opinion of the profession. He once wrote, If you teach a poor young man to shave himself and keep his razor in order, you may contribute more to the happiness of his life than in him giving a thousand guineas.

Starting point is 00:23:56 This sum may be soon spent, the regret only remaining of having foolishly consumed it. But in the other case, he escapes the frequent vexation of waiting for barbers, and of their sometimes dirty fingers, offensive breaths, and dull razors. During the 19th century, barboring in the U.S. was a task often given to enslaved African Americans. As they learned these new skills, they turned it to their advantage, seeing barboring as a legitimate way to earn an independent income. After the American Civil War ended in 1865, the barber profession grew rapidly state-side, almost overnight. An influx of Europeans arrived, skilled in the trade, and they started businesses in their new hometowns. This competition

Starting point is 00:25:14 led to the displacement of black barbers. There was also a degree of tension in the black community. People disapproved of black barbers working exclusively for white customers, but many of these barbers likely felt justified. The work was an opportunity to improve their circumstances and achieve economic security. Nonetheless, over the years, a divide began to form, with many black barbers working primarily for black customers. From the late 19th century onwards, the African American barbershop became an integral part of black communities. Some scholars have referred to these barbershops as sanctuaries. They were places where members of the community could get together

Starting point is 00:26:27 and talk openly about anything and everything. At the time, the typical barber shop in the U.S. was compact in size, usually no more than 12 by 10 feet, and they cost around $20 to furnish. The shops contained a straight black chair with a rest for the head, along with soap, brushes, wash basins, and towels. There was also additional seating so that customer could sit and wait their turn. The prices were set at around three cents a shave, and five to ten cents for a haircut. It's worth noting that even as levels of hygiene improved, there was no guarantee of a fresh tell. Apparently, they were usually changed after every 10 to 12 customers. In 1887, the Journeyman Barbers International Union of America was formed.

Starting point is 00:27:49 The organization was launched to ensure that barbers were trained adequately, that they upheld professional sanitary premises, and that they had all the correct licenses. Conditions of work were improved and fair wages paid. The union also provided financial assistance to shops, should they fall upon hard times. As the industry flourished, a man in Chicago named A.B. Moeller saw an opportunity to establish a school for barbers, the first in the country, founded in 1893. It was a place where men could hone their skills and become business. owners. Moeller also wrote the first textbook on barbering. Interestingly, a later edition of the book

Starting point is 00:29:01 commented on the decline of the barbershop in previous centuries. According to the author, in England, America, and all over the civilized world, the decline of the barber was a spectacle for all to see, barbershops became hangouts, places where low characters assembled, smutty stories, malicious scandal and gossip of all kinds characterized barbershops. Until a few years ago, a barber shop was a place where men showed their lower instincts, and where women dared not to enter. However, for From the late 19th century onwards, thanks to men like Moeller and various organizations, barbering became a true profession in America. In many states, a barber needed a license before they could practice.

Starting point is 00:30:17 Licensing laws and inspections led to improved hygiene in barbershops, and a decrease in conditions such as ringworm and barber's itch. In the 1920s, the Illinois Master Barbers Association tried to rebrand Barbers as Cairo Tonsors to increase the status of the profession. Cairo derived from the Greek word for hand, while Tonsor was the Latin word for Barber or Shearer. However, the term Cairo Tonsor didn't catch on. According to a news article from 1926, barbers in Miami were dismissive. They don't think of much of that newfangled name. From the 1920s, some barbershops had the occasional female customer.

Starting point is 00:31:27 The shift occurred thanks to the popularity of the Bob Harris. style. It was a trend popularized by Irene Castle, an American ballroom dancer and fashion icon. Demand for short hair on women increased, and barbers were forced to adapt their services to accommodate these changes if they wanted to maximize profits. While not all barbershops encouraged it. Female customers became more common. Another evolution in the history of the barbershop. Now, let's take a moment to look at another curiosity of barbershop history. Barbershop music is singing a cappella style without instruments with an emphasis on a four-part harmony. Traditionally, it has often been performed by a barbershop quartet.

Starting point is 00:32:44 There are four singers, usually male, who wear coordinated outfits, including striped vests, straw hats, and bow ties. The exact origin of barbershop music are uncertain. But in 1660, the English diarist, Samuel Pepys wrote about being entertained with Barber's music. Presumably, there was already a tradition of music being performed at Barber's shops, perhaps to pass the time while men were waiting for their turn. However, Peep's refers to a musical instrument,

Starting point is 00:33:34 a stringed instrument known as the sitem. Whatever the music was, it was probably quite different from what we now think of as barbershop music with a cappella singing. The origins of this genre can be traced to the United States. In the 19th century, it was traditional for African-American men to gather informally and harmonized together. This was the foundation of barbershop music as we know it today, even if the term itself is much older. In one way or another, there's a connection between the shop and the music. For centuries, the barber shop has been a gathering place, somewhere to talk and sometimes sing. Over the course of the 20th century, fashion. and trends in men's hair changed frequently. During the Second World War, soldiers were expected

Starting point is 00:34:52 to keep their hair short, partly for hygiene, and partly for professionalism and uniformity. Barbers were often called into service to keep the men well-groomed while on active duty. Around In 1958, Edmund Raffler, a Belgian-born barber who had moved to America, had an idea. He decided to travel to Paris to study European haircuts. There, he was inspired by the use of a sculpting razor on damp hair. When he returned to America, he developed the Raffler cut and was awarded a person. patent for the technique, the first in barbering history. The ruffler cut helped barbers to work with the hair's natural form,

Starting point is 00:36:02 and to custom shape long hair into specific styles. This would soon come in handy, given the way fashions were changing. By the 1960s, men were wearing their hair much longer. This was a time when bands like the Beatles, Led Zeppelin, The Who, and the Rolling Stones, were in the public eye. Many of the band members wore longer hairstyles. Barbers, historically used to cutting short hair, had to dream up new techniques to meet client demand, giving the hair natural movement and a textured shape. recent years, the barbershop experience has become more personalized. Instead of popping in

Starting point is 00:37:08 for a crew cut and shave, customers can now look forward to precision haircuts like fades and tapers. They can enjoy close shaves and facials by professionals who take great pride in their work. Men can even have nasal hair and ear hair removed. using small flames, a traditional practice that is commonplace in Turkey. There are luxurious, hot towel shaves using rich, fragrant lathers, and procedures that open pores and steam the skin, leaving it looking radiant and refreshed. Customers can also enjoy relaxing head and shoulder massages. and custom package treatments in preparation for a wedding or a special event.

Starting point is 00:38:16 Visiting barbershops in different areas of the world has also become a popular pastime of YouTube vloggers and social media influencers. Every day, content creators with millions of followers upload videos, allowing viewers, allowing viewers viewers to discover unique and traditional treatments pertaining to different cultures. The barbershop may have changed a lot in the Western world, but today it is still seen as a place for male's social interaction and catching up on gossip while being pampered. As comedian Bernie Mac once said,

Starting point is 00:39:08 whatever you hear at the barbershop stays at the barbershop days at the barbershop. It's a place where men can come to offload their problems in relative privacy. As we come to the end of our story, let's consider the future of barbering. Recent advances in technology include blades that can sharpen themselves, and other tools may soon emerge, smart clippers. The question is, will barbershops continue to be social day spas for men, a place where they can gather to chat about sports, politics, and goings on in the world? Or will we see significant technological changes, such as AI-driven consultations and treatments carried out by robots? Perhaps the industry.

Starting point is 00:40:24 History will revert to using ancient techniques, incorporating traditional healing into personal grooming sessions, as seen in barbershops in some parts of the world. Any time we'll tell. But we look forward to seeing what unfolds in the next era of the barbershop.

Sleepy History - Barber Shops

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