Sleepy History - Eggnog

Starting point is 00:00:00 This is Sleepy History. Sleepy History is a production of Slumber Studios. To listen ad-free, get access to bonus episodes, and support the ongoing production of this show. Check out our premium feed. For many of us, the winter holidays are a time of indulging in traditional food and drinks, from glue vine and fruitcake to cinnamon-spiced coffee. Tonight, we'll explore the history of a beverage that to many is the taste of Christmas.

Starting point is 00:00:46 Eggnog. The origins of this alcoholic milk punch date back to the 13th century. Over the years, it's been a popular beverage among sailors, aristocrats, and perhaps even presidents. As the name suggests, it also played a part in the Eggnog riot of 1826. So just relax and let your mind drift as we explore the sleepy history of eggnog. Traditionally enjoyed over Christmas or the winter holidays, eggnog might be described as an egg milk punch. It's a dairy-based drink that's sweet and indulgent, but recipes vary. Generally, it includes these key ingredients.

Starting point is 00:01:58 Milk, cream, egg yolks and sugar, along with whipped egg whites and distilled spirits. It's commonly seasoned with festive spices, like nutmeg, cinnamon, and sometimes other flavorings. In texture, eggnog is somewhere between milk and sweet custard. But it's alcoholic with much more flavor. You'll know this yourself if you've been fortunate enough to taste it, perhaps around the Christmas tree or at some other winter gathering. Perhaps you've seen it being made at home and smelt the aromas as

Starting point is 00:02:50 it's stirred on the hob. Though it's mostly served, chilled, it is sometimes here. heated and served in warm mugs, like mulled wine at Christmas markets. Today, eggnog, or some variation, is enjoyed across the world, from Europe to Canada, Trinidad to Venezuela, and perhaps most of all, in the United States. Since the drink was popularized in the 18th century, it's been the festive, of choice for many Americans. However, the history of eggnog stretches back much further. In a sense, we can trace it all the way back to medieval Britain.

Starting point is 00:03:49 With a recipe that goes back to at least the 13th century, Posit is Eggnog's ancestor. It's best described as warm, curdled milk with added spices, mixed with either wine or ale. Posit was made with boiling milk, to which the alcohol was added, causing the mixture to separate. When the liquid was cool, the clear way was usually discarded, and the leftover curds blended with sweetness and seasonings.

Starting point is 00:04:36 Exactly what these were seems to have differed, Though there are reports of cinnamon, nutmeg and mace, a spice deriving from nutmeg. Some recipes include ginger and candied anise, while others mention sugar and sweet white wine. The recipes attributed to medieval monks sometimes included figs to sweeten the mixture. These recipes also brought POSIT a step closer to eggnog, with the inclusion of eggs alongside the milk. By the 16th century, eggs were sometimes being included in Posit recipes outside of monasteries. Cream and either lemon or citrus juice were also added. The sourness was offset with a helping of sugar.

Starting point is 00:05:46 In flavour, the drink became more similar to a modern-day lemon posset, a chilled set dessert, a bit like syllabub. However, in the 16th and 17th centuries, Posset was still very much a beverage, or rather a remedy, to treat colds and the flu. There are various references to Posit, being used for medicinal purposes at the time. It is said that King Charles I was prescribed Posit by his physician.

Starting point is 00:06:35 As the drink was used as a treatment for illnesses like the flu, it became particularly associated with the winter season. Posit was served at seasonal gatherings of the aristocracy and used to make toasts to prosperity and good health. Some might have enjoyed the beverage more frequently, drinking it before bedtime as a sleep aid. The exact type of POSIT that people drank in this period varied greatly. For example, there's a recipe from the 17th century entitled, My Lord of Carlisle's Sack Posit.

Starting point is 00:07:27 Sack is a reference to sweet sack wine, A fortified white wine, similar to sherry. A pint of this wine is included in the recipe, alongside 18 eggs, cream and sugar. Spices include cinnamon, mace and nutmeg, as well as animal musk, an ambergris from sperm whales. Now this is far from a typical possible. recipe. Ingredients such as musk and ambergris were rare and expensive. They were out of reach for the vast majority of people. The poor added breadcrumbs

Starting point is 00:08:23 to thicken out their posse. Meanwhile, the aristocracy drank from specially made crockery. It's thought that posseats sets became popular gifts for the wealthy elite across parts of across parts of Europe. A set included a two-handled container, in which the posse would be mixed before serving. The drink would be served in a matching posseet pot, sometimes referred to as a cup or bowl. There were also spoons for serving and containers for spices. These Posit accessories were often attractive, valuable items. Materials ranged from hand-painted porcelain to stunning silverware. One particular set is said to have belonged to Queen Mary I of England and King Philip

Starting point is 00:09:35 the second of Spain. An engagement gift from the Spanish ambassador, it's thought to have been made by Benvenuto Chalini, an Italian. sculptor and goldsmith. The Posset set was made of gold, crystal, enamel and precious gems. It was the British aristocracy's enthusiasm for Posit that would lead to similar drinks becoming popular overseas. British imperial expansion was accelerating in the 17th and 18th centuries, and parts of North America had been claimed as colonies. British colonists, making a new life abroad,

Starting point is 00:10:29 brought their culture and customs across the Atlantic. They also brought recipes, like the ones for Posit. But the ingredients sometimes changed, depending on what was available. There's some debate about where the name Eggnog originated. but it's likely that it stems from a word in Middle English, Noggin. Between the Norman conquest of England in 1066 and the late 15th century, the word Noggin referred to a carved wooden mug,

Starting point is 00:11:14 one used specifically to serve alcohol. Some believe that the name Eggnog might be an adaptation of what was first egg and grog. In colonial slang, grog was rum, and it was served in those small wooden noggins. It's not unthinkable, therefore, that over the centuries, egg and grog morphed into egg-nog. One early written reference to the word nog on its own comes from the late 17th century. A man named Humphrey Predo wrote a letter. in which he observed the customs of the people of Norfolk in the east of England. He described a drink served in the taverns.

Starting point is 00:12:14 It was a bottle of old and potent beer, which the locals called nog. Another theory is that the word nog derived from the Scottish nug, or nugged ale. This was a drink that had been warmed with a hot poker. hot poker. So, eggnog could relate to an egg-based alcoholic beverage which was warmed using this very same method. And that matches the description of the flip cocktail, which seems to have first appeared in the late 17th century. The flip was similar to modern eggnog, minus the milk and cream. The earliest recipes included beer and rum. The alcohol was heated to near-boiling beside the fire and added to the mix of sugar and eggs. The flip took its name from its method of

Starting point is 00:13:29 mixing, being flipped back and forth between containers. The eggs were beaten, creating a smooth yet frothy texture. Sugar and spices were then added to the liquid. Then it would be poured into a cup or tankered and warmed with a hot poker from the fire. This final touch would cause the drink to froth even more and warm up the cooler ingredients. Initially it was considered a sailor's drink, But over the years, the flip cocktail became popular at taverns both in colonial America and in England. Each establishment had their own recipe, tailored to suit their resources and the preferences of their clientele. But the recipes generally revolved around the key ingredients. Fresh eggs, alcohol, sugar and spices.

Starting point is 00:14:45 By the late 19th century, there were many types of flip. We can see this for ourselves in recipe books of the time, such as How to Mix Drinks. This guide was written by the New York bartender Jerry Thomas and first published in 1862. One edition included the cold brandy flip, served with grated nutmeg, and the cold gin flip. which was made with Holland's finest gin. Then there was the hot English rum flip, made with aged rum and ale, as well as eggs, sugar, and grated nutmeg or ginger.

Starting point is 00:15:41 Now, let's return for a moment to the issue of etymology, where exactly does the name eggnog come from? As we've mentioned, Hossett was the predecessor to later fore. of eggnog. But we can also consider the flip to be a very close relation. Some versions of the flip came to be known as the egg flip. Perhaps the egg in this name was added to nog, meaning strong ale or beer. It's one of many theories about the etymology of eggnog. Still, most experts agree that the name was an Americanism, coined in the colonies in the 18th century. Eggnog could be considered a variation of posset, minus the curdling, or an egg flip with cream and milk added. Traditional eggnog recipes

Starting point is 00:16:55 used ingredients that were cheap and available. It's largely because of this that the drink became so popular. Some early recipes didn't include milk or cream, but it's likely that many versions included one or both, as dairy products in the colonies were relatively inexpensive. Eggnog grew in popularity throughout the 18th century. One of the earliest references to the drink comes from Jonathan Boucher, a clergyman from Maryland, who wrote a poem around 1774. Fog drams i'er morn, or, better still, eggnog, at night hot suppings and at midday grog. My palate can regale. He was evidently a fan, enthusing about his hot suppings of eggnog at night. No doubt it was an opinion shared by many others. From its early adoption,

Starting point is 00:18:16 this indulgent beverage seems to have been associated with the winter holidays. Most considered it a treat for special occasions, even where it was made with less costly ingredients. The English aristocrats had flavoured their posse with brandy, sherry and fortified wine. But in the colonies, these products were all heavily taxed. Caribbean rum made for a much cheaper alternative, and it was just as potent and complementary in flavour. However, rum became scarcer from 1775 when America began its fight for independence from Britain. Around the time that Jonathan Boucher penned his poem about eggnog,

Starting point is 00:19:16 America began its revolutionary war. Trade routes were disrupted, which meant that imported goods like rum were less available. And so, whiskey, bourbon, and even moonshine became alternatives for making eggnog. The wartime did little to dampen the drink's popularity. If anything, it became even more appealing. eggnog must have provided extra warmth and comfort, especially when enjoyed in the company of comrades. It's tempting to imagine Egnog being served at celebrations on July 4, 1776, following the Declaration of Independence. And then again, in September 1783, when the Treaty of Paris brought the war to an end.

Starting point is 00:20:21 In a way, eggnog symbolized the independent spirit of the early United States. Old world traditions were combined with new world ingredients. So it seems appropriate that George Washington, one of the founding fathers of the United States, was said to have been a fan of eggnog. A book by Olive Bailey, published in 1948, was titled, Christmas with the Washington's. It included an eggnog recipe, claiming to belong to the first president. Of course, we can't know for sure whether this was Washington's own recipe, but it's plausible as the recipe is written in an 18th century style. Other recipes,

Starting point is 00:21:22 written in the president's own hand, have also been verified by a number of modern historians. For instance, a recipe for small beer was documented in one of his notebooks. Therefore, it's possible that the recipe for George Washington's eggnog was written by him. At the very least, it's likely similar to what guests were served when visiting his home at Mount Vernon, Virginia. There are a few different versions of Washington's eggnog recipe, but here's one of them. It would have produced about 18 servings served in small glasses. The recipe includes 950 milliliters of heavy cream and the same quantity of whole milk,

Starting point is 00:22:22 as well as 150 grams of sugar and about 12 eggs. Somewhat unusually for the time, there's no mention of spices. But it features a range of alcohols, about two cups of brandy and one cup of dark Jamaican rum, the same again of rye whiskey, followed by half a cup of sherry. A glass of George Washington's eggnog might even have included his own brand of whiskey. By the time he passed away in 1799, the Mount Vernon distillery was one of the largest in the country, producing nearly 11,000 gallons of rye whiskey each year. Now, continuing with the recipe. The whiskey and other alcohols were the first

Starting point is 00:23:25 ingredients to be mixed together. Next, it was time to crack open the eggs, separating the yokes and egg whites into two large bowls. The egg yolks, the egg yolks. The egg yoke would be beaten into a pale golden liquid before the sugar was added and stirred into the mix. Then the milk and cream would be poured in gradually as the mixture was gently beaten. This was followed by the blended alcohol, which was stirred in until the mixture became very smooth. Adding the egg whites, which were beaten by hand, was the final step, and it required required care and attention. The stiff white peaks had to be folded in very gently, to ensure that the egg whites retained their air and lightness. With that, the cocktail was done, but not ready.

Starting point is 00:24:40 It had to be left in a cool place for several days to enhance the flavor. The alcohol in the recipe helped to preserve its freshness, allowing the mix to be aged for months or even years. Washington's eggnog was likely served chilled and would have had the consistency of milk. Without the inclusion of spices like cinnamon or nutmeg, the predominant flavor would have come from the alcohol. it likely made for some merry gatherings, though none quite as rourcous as an event that took place decades later. In 1861, Jefferson Davis would become the first and only president of the Confederacy, the southern states during the American Civil War.

Starting point is 00:25:45 Back in 1826, he was in his late teens and a military cadet. at the West Point Academy in New York. It was at this academy that a festive gathering would turn into chaos. What began on Christmas Eve as a secret party would later be known as the Eggnog Riot. Solvina Sthea, the superintendent at West Point, was intent on bringing order and discipline to the barracks. This meant strict rules for his cadets. By this point in time, it was an American tradition to serve eggnog at Christmas celebrations. But Thayer banned all alcohol at the academy.

Starting point is 00:26:44 Perhaps he underestimated the cadets' love of the tradition and their desire to unwind with a glass of eggnog. In the days leading up to Christmas, the cadets began smuggling ingredients from the mess hall, an egg here or there, a jug of milk, and then cream. Alcohol, however, was harder to come by. Even when cadets managed to sneak out to taverns, they couldn't afford the high prices. Eventually, on the 22nd of December, a few cadets slunk out at night and sailed a boat across the Hudson River.

Starting point is 00:27:30 He successfully obtained some whiskey and smuggled it back to West Point's north barracks. The whiskey was added to the pot, alongside a gallon of rum from another cadet. The eggnog stewed in secret, so it would be ready just in time for Christmas. Now, supervising officers had their suspicions. Some of the men, Jefferson Davis included, had a reputation for mischief and sneaking out to taverns.

Starting point is 00:28:13 But when Christmas Eve inspections yielded no results, the officers went off to bed. Then, in the early hours, they awoke to the sound of Christmas festivities, singing, stomping, and drunken revelry. The officers went from room to room, outraged at the scene. of drunkenness they encountered. Some cadets tried to hide under a blanket, while another covered his face with a hat. The men were ordered to go to bed, and some did just that. Unfortunately, others became more belligerent and rebellious, brandishing their weapons and threatening those in charge. It's somewhat miraculous, considering the events that followed, that supervising officers were only bruised. One lieutenant was threatened with a sword and hit on the head with a

Starting point is 00:29:22 plank of wood. Elsewhere, a cadet actually shot at a major and only missed because he was pushed out of the way. The worst damage was done to the barracks. Windows were smashed and banisters were broken. It must have made for a surprising sight at 6 a.m. roll call on Christmas morning. By then, the eggnog was wearing off, and defiance had likely given way to feelings of embarrassment. Some cadets actually showed up for their morning. About 90 cadets, or a third of the student body, had been among the rioters. They as planned to avoid drunken misbehavior had backfired in a spectacular fashion. Some of those involved in the riot, were placed under house arrest, while the worst offenders were court-martialed.

Starting point is 00:30:35 Several were expelled from the Academy for their part in the riot. But this doesn't seem to have impacted their prospects. Most came from wealth and privilege and went on to have full careers and high-ranking positions. This included, of course, Jefferson Davis, although, he was present during the night's events, he was not disciplined. Who knows how history might have been different, had this not been the case. Those in charge today at West Point Academy have found a solution to the eggnog problem. Now, cadets go home for the holidays, where they're free to enjoy a festive tipple if they wish. The story of the Eggnog riot

Starting point is 00:31:39 speaks to the drink's popularity at the time. Fifty years had passed since the clergyman from Maryland had waxed lyrical about his nightly hot suppings. And now, Eggnog was such a Christmas staple that these young cadets would risk it all to have some. It was in this same decade, the 1820s, that another iteration became an American festive favorite. Sometimes attributed to the British journalist Piers Egan, the cocktail is known as the Tom and Jerry.

Starting point is 00:32:26 It's essentially a warm eggnog, though, as always, recipes differ. Served in either a mug or a bowl, it usually contains both brandy and rum. This is added to a blend of egg yolks and powdered sugar, and followed by the careful folding in of egg whites. The drink is then warmed by the addition of hot milk, before sometimes being topped by more egg white and sprinkled with nutmeg. Decades later, a recipe for the Tom and Jerry would be included alongside the Egg Flip cocktail in a book that we've already mentioned, How to Mix Drinks by Jerry Thomas. Fans of the Tom and Jerry, included Warren G. Harding, the U.S. president between 1921 and 1923.

Starting point is 00:33:32 The drink was served at his annual Christmas party, to which he invited his close friends. Drinking eggnog had become a traditional festive pastime, but it was also drunk on other occasions. At the end of the 18th century, the writer Isaac Weld wrote about his. his travels in North America and Canada. According to Weld, it was customary for travelers to take a hearty draft of eggnog before heading out on their travels. Equally, the drink continued to be treated as medicine, as demonstrated by an article from 1892. In the pages of a scientific journal, eggnog was listed among the treatments for the flu. No doubt there were also countless others who drank eggnog before bedtime.

Starting point is 00:34:40 Some, because they were cold, others to help them sleep, and many simply because they enjoyed the taste. Those tastes would differ alongside names and customs depending on the part of the world. Over time, curious chefs, bartenders and mixologists experimented. They came up with different versions of eggnog or similar drinks, often adding local ingredients. In the southern states of the US, for example, people tend to like their eggnog with a strong kick of bourbon whiskey. In Puerto Rico, eggnog is known as Coquito, a name that literally translates as little coconut. The drink is made with fresh coconut juice or milk and a good slug of rum. Another iteration, in Mexico is rompope. It's made with rum or grain alcohol, Mexican cinnamon, and sometimes

Starting point is 00:35:54 ground almonds. In Peru, there's Ponche de Huevo, made with Pisco, a local brandy. Eggnog in Colombia is particularly indulgent, often being made with sweetened, condensed milk. It also includes a liqueur called Aguardiente, meaning firewater, which has an anise flavor. This liqueur also appears in the Chilean recipe for Cola de Mono or Monkey's Tail. The drink is an eggless milk punch and includes the addition of coffee and cloves. As one might expect, Jamaican eggnog makes use of the country's dark rum, along with eggs, milk and spices such as vanilla and nutmeg. There are also many different varieties in Europe and other parts of the world.

Starting point is 00:37:04 In Germany, a drink similar to eggnog is made with white wine. Ayapunsch often includes cinnamon and cloves, as well as more unusual ingredients like tea and lemon juice. A Dutch beverage called Advocat has the consistency of sweet custard. Ingredients include brandy, honey and vanilla, and it's often topped with cream and cocoa. Then there's the Italian drink, Il Bombardino, or the Bonn, often enjoyed after a day of skiing. In Japan, Tamagozaki or Egg Sake can be drunk any time of year to soothe the cold. While there are countless variations across the world, one thing remains the same.

Starting point is 00:38:17 The ritual of drinking eggnog evokes so many wonderful feelings. Warmth, safety, and comfort. For some, it's also a nostalgic beverage, bringing back happy memories. The modern eggnog drinker has an array of choices, including the option to buy it ready-made, though for some the preparation is part of the process and something they look forward to as much as the drinking. These customs keep us connected to the past. The rituals and traditions surrounding eggnog are an important part of the drink's long history. They put us in the company of the English aristocracy, and perhaps a president or two.

Sleepy History - Eggnog

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