Sleepy History - Pyjamas

Starting point is 00:00:01 This is Sleepy History. Sleepy History is a production of Slumber Studios. To listen, ad-free, and support the show, check out our premium feed. If you want a $3,000 a month payday for life, what would you feel free to do? Maybe take a long weekend, every weekend, or try a bunch of new hobbies.

Starting point is 00:00:34 Would you feel free to upgrade and listen ad-free? Don't worry, we get it. Every $20 ticket could win you $3,000. thousand dollars a month for life and supports life-saving cancer research at the princess margaret feel free to buy your payday for life ticket today raffle number one 55 two one nine four please play responsibly many people relish that moment in their day when they can slip into their favorite loungeware and truly relax although habits vary there's a good chance your chosen nighttime apparel is some type of pajamas. In recent years, society has elevated the comfort of pajamas to an entire

Starting point is 00:01:22 athleisure industry. It's become nearly impossible to draw a line between sleepwear and the public uniform in the 21st century. Whether flannel or silk, mixed or perfectly matched, fashionable or gleefully disheveled, your favorite pair of pajamas represents a long and surprisingly controversial history. Tonight, travel along with us as we follow the epic journey of this iconic wardrobe staple and its role in transforming society. So just relax and let your mind drift. as we explore the sleepy history of pajamas.

Starting point is 00:02:16 Some people have suggested that the origin of the humble pajama stretches all the way back to the reign of the great Han Dynasty emperor Wu Ti. His tenure lasted from the year 144 to the year 87, B.C.E. Emperor Wu-T. is known for being both powerful and ambitious. He led the largest expansion of Chinese territory experienced during the Han Dynasty, eventually controlling land from North Korea on one side, to the depths of Central Asia on the other. In addition to keeping up his offensive attacks, Wu Ti had to be vigilant as well.

Starting point is 00:03:32 He was plagued by nomadic tribes who relentlessly raided his territory. With so much war to keep up, he wanted to enhance China's military prowess. To do this, he aggressively improved. China's cavalry. The story goes that the men of the cavalry found their traditional draped garments too unwieldy for their labors on horseback. They divided their clothing in half on the bottom, so it would be easier for them to sit in the saddle. Some sources would argue that trousers were already in use in Central Asia at this time and that these Han Dynasty warriors

Starting point is 00:04:34 were merely rising to meet the challenge posed by their agile nomadic opponents. Either way, there's no doubt that this wardrobe innovation made it easier to succeed at fighting on horseback. Those who did not adapt to the new and improved uniform were in danger of falling quickly behind in their battles. So it is unknown whether China started or simply joined the Calvary Trouser Revolution. But most modern sources agree that the pants worn by soldiers soon evolved to become sensible daywear for civilians in India and Iran.

Starting point is 00:05:37 Both men and women found these wide leg pants with a tie waist to be practical and comfortable for hot weather. The original pronunciation of the Hindi word for this garment is variously reported as having, been Pajama or Pajama. According to a national public radio or NPR story, the translation, which is also shared by Urdu and Persian, was simply leg garment. Naturally, Asia was not alone in its adoption of trousers.

Starting point is 00:06:26 After the fall of the Roman Empire, Europeans adopted the two-legged garment as well. However, the flowing, comfortable pajamas was not part of the Western lifestyle yet. With less of a need to beat the heat, it seems that the people of Europe were content to keep their trousers narrow, and form when the British colonials arrived in India, they quickly realized how sensible these loose trousers were for staying cool. These western newcomers were, however, more interested in pairing them with a tunic and donning them as sleepwear, evolving the word pyjama to blend in with the trousers, drawers and pants of English, the British began calling these two-piece sets, pajamas. Evidence of their popularity can be found in a publication from 1954 called the

Starting point is 00:07:49 Handbook of British India, touting itself as a guide to the stranger, a traveler, the resident, and all who may have business appertaining to India. This ambitious tome included sage advice. On warm afternoons, the author counseled Europeans to Don Pajamas, which he also called the loose Turkish trouser. Westerners were then supposed to sip iced soda water, lie down on the couch, novel or newspaper in hand, and in all human probability, go to sleep. After picking up this afternoon habit in India, it is no surprise that many British upper-crust men eventually returned to England unwilling to give up their comfortable new loungy.

Starting point is 00:09:00 fashions. So it was that the daywear of the Ottoman Empire and the future sleepwear of the West, the popularity of the noble European nightshirt would soon begin to slip. The new British pajama enthusiasts wore them as a mark of sophistication. Those who boldly sported pajamas were making it clear that they had traveled widely and experienced other cultures. By the late 19th century, men's pajamas had become mainstream in the United Kingdom. In the early 1900s, British pajamas underwent some alterations. Himlines lifted, creating a shorter top, and a wide array of fabrics appeared. The British gentleman might be found wearing his jammies in flannel cotton or even silk. Nonetheless, the comfort of the pajama remained a largely male privilege until World War I intervened.

Starting point is 00:10:31 You might wonder, what would a war have to do with sleepwear? There is some evidence that the expansion of pajamas to women's fashion was partly due to a surprising source. Nighttime London bombing raids. During the First World War, Germany deployed Zeppelin airships to Britain as part of its hostilities, carrying out raids under the cover of darkness. This resulted in many nights when city dwellers would be forced to flee to the nearest basement or tube station huddling in the cold with all of their neighbors.

Starting point is 00:11:31 These nighttime alarms happened very suddenly, forcing people to run for cover without a chance, to get dressed in their street clothes. The women of London began to adapt, resorting to cloaks and other coverings they could quickly throw over their sleepwear, which alone would have been considered unseemly. Teen 15, the Guardian newspaper declared pajamas to be Zeppelin clothes,

Starting point is 00:12:13 citing their growth. growing popularity among women who didn't want to be chilly and exposed in their night dresses. Gently poking fun at the fashion possibilities of this new sleepwear, the article said, Zeppelin pajamas can be made of honest flannel. Very much more often they're made of crepe de chine or baling that of Japanese silk. Even as the Zeppelins were bombing London, the film actress Billy Burke pushed pajamas further into the spotlight. Nowadays, most people would recognize Ms. Burke from her much later 1939 role as Glinda the Good Witch in the Wizard of Oz. However, she was already making waves in other films,

Starting point is 00:13:19 decades earlier. Notably, she set off a pajama craze by wearing them in two of her 1916 films. Women loved her on-screen fashion revolution, embracing this glamorous new look for sleepwear. Women began throwing pajama parties for their friends. Finally, the World War drew to a close. If the nighttime hardships of the air raids had popularized pajamas, then it's fair to say the end of the hostilities allowed them to emerge into the daytime. People started traveling for leisure again, and pajamas went with them, appearing at chic European beach towns. This time, however, they were being worn as resort fashion. Around 1918, Coco Chanel began scandalizing society by wearing pajamas on the beach and Noville, France,

Starting point is 00:14:48 about an hour from Paris. Although it had once been marshland, this seaside, destination had recently become a playground for the rich. Thanks to a clever developer and some careful engineering, the marshland at Doville was made usable. Wealthy families began building mansions there, followed by two five-star hotels, which appeared early in the 20th century. With the addition of a racetrack and a casino, Doveille's star rose quickly. This prestigious resort was where Chanel's very first clothing shop was located, and it quickly resumed its status as a coveted getaway once the war ended. As a designer, Chanel had already been blazing a trail. by generally democratizing women's fashion.

Starting point is 00:16:10 Always pursuing that which was natural and comfortable, she boldly envisioned a world where women were freed from clothing that limited them. Her customary daywear in this northern French town was wide trousers and men's jersey tops. It was not at all surprising. that she would embrace the flowing nature of pajamas and elevate them to high fashion. Bringing comfortable bedroom style into the open seemed perfectly in character. As with many of Chanel's innovations, both the languid mood and the androgynous cut of pajamas, turned heads at Europe's cautious vacation spots.

Starting point is 00:17:15 Delighting in this fashion revolution, other trendy ladies followed suit. Some arguing that pajamas provided protection from sunburn. High society may have disapproved, but the momentum behind pajamas continued to grow. In 1921, guests at Doville began gathering for what they called Pajama suppers. By 1922, the term beach pajamas had been coined. In the 20s, Doville was quite a magnet for fashionable visitors, and photographer,

Starting point is 00:18:11 began capturing these outfits on film. Parisian beach styles were shared around the world, influencing fashion everywhere. Whether or not sun protection was the true motivation, it wasn't long before the French Riviera resort of Jean-Lippin, on Cote d'Azor, was being called. called Pajamaland. From France to the rest of the world, a new trend had taken off. Once the nightwear of the sophisticated man, pajamas had now become the statement of the liberated

Starting point is 00:19:07 woman. Until this point, Americans had shown a surprising resistance. to replacing their night shirts and nightgowns with this new style. Paper in Kansas called the Lawrence Journal World can be quoted as saying that pajamas were viewed by hardy American folk with the same suspicion that they showed the first bathtubs. Nonetheless, the spokesman reviewed newspaper in Spokane, Washington, said in 1927 that American men had finally come around, putting 90% of their sleepwear purchases into pajamas. Indeed, a pair of turquoise pajamas worn by President Warren G. Harding in the early

Starting point is 00:20:22 20s was destined to end up in the future collection of the prestigious Smithsonian Institution. The article continues that even in the late 20s, there were a couple of regions in the United States. The author called The Night Shirt Bell. Here, conservative Midwestern and New England denizens still viewed pajamas with skepticism. These men of the so-called nightshirt guard clung a bit longer to their old customs, but it did not stop the pajama revolution from continuing elsewhere, perhaps fulfilling the worst fears of the pajama detractors. This new-fangled fashion was firmly ensconced as home loungeware by the end of the 1920s. It seemed that nothing could stop the spread of pajamas from the women of

Starting point is 00:21:46 Europe to their American counterparts. 1924, Vogue Magazine declared that pajamas had become matters of vivid importance. And further suggested, the pajama is not an amusing novelty. It has become an essential part of the smart woman's wardrobe. By the next year, beach pajamas were being advertised within its glamorous pages.

Starting point is 00:22:25 In the photo, a model stands under a fancy parasol wearing an embroidered silk two-piece set ready to stroll the waterfront. Meanwhile, the Decatur Herald in Georgia published a photo of a woman from New York, smoking a cigarette and wearing pajamas on the sands of a Miami beach. The title of the photo was, Pajamas, the latest.

Starting point is 00:23:05 A few short years later in 1927, the elegant Venice Lido Resort declared itself to be the beach of sunshine and pajamas. At the same time, across the Atlantic, Harper's Bazaar published an article called The Pajama Arise. The magazine stated that an entirely new type of costume had recently joined the wardrobe of the smart woman. Of course, controversy burned on a more conservative take on the more conservative take on the latest waterfront trends could be seen in an article the next year from the Pittsburgh press, it declared freedom of the seas permits alluring modes, suggesting that beach pajamas were

Starting point is 00:24:18 quote, sanctioned by a liberal Paris for the very modern maidens of the sea. The men of the night shirt belt may have been displeased with the latest shocking apparel, but American women were determined to join their sisters overseas in their enjoyment of comfortable leisure wear. Of course, as they became widely adopted for women's public use, pajamas continued to change with the fashion. Their androgynous appearance was adapted. Variations on the original loungeware included bringing in bright patterns, adding lace trim, and creating nipped waists. During the 1920s, wide Turkish palazzo-style trousers became increasingly common, although there were also more fitted trousers with laces or buttons at the ankle. Throughout this period, silks and satins were popular.

Starting point is 00:25:48 Beach pajamas tended to be either two or three pieces, depending on whether or not, they also included a robe or a jacket. Asian-influenced patterns were popular, as they were a nod to the Edwardian origins of Western Pajama styles. 1928, an article in the Sunday Morning Star newspaper in Delaware showed that resistance to women's pajamas was waning. The writer said, the fashion of pajama type of costume for beachware came upon us with amazing speed until now it is taken quite for granted and for negligee purposes and at-home wear the pajama costume is unquestioned as fate would have it more daring styles or

Starting point is 00:27:05 still in store. That same year, the first tanning oil was introduced. Thanks to the beach resort culture glamorized by Chanel and others, it soon became fashionable to sunbath and enjoy life outdoors more freely. Tanning became more popular, driven by sun-kissed photos of the rich and famous, spending time basking in the sunshine, whether it be on the beach, in a yacht or playing tennis, had become a mark of privilege. It was now desirable. As a result, beach pajamas evolved. Instead of providing complete coverage, featured clever cutouts or were entirely back on in keeping with this trend toward active life. Jump suits and bell bottoms emerged, allowing more freedom of movement.

Starting point is 00:28:32 Silk, satin, and rayon were commonly used because they were becoming more affordable at the 1920s. As fitness and sun tans became the ideal. pursuits of leisure time, movement-friendly beach pajamas morphed into the first sportswear. In just one decade, pajamas had become widely accepted as both sleepwear and daytime leisure wear, despite their detractors. Beach pajamas maintained their popularity well in the way. In the to the 1930s. In England,

Starting point is 00:29:27 a pair of female friends, created a stir on the brightened seafront in 1932 by strolling the boardwalk in brightly colored pajamas while smoking pipes. The Costume Institute

Starting point is 00:29:49 of the Metropolitan Museum of Art has preserved a pair of of beach pajamas from 1935 that shows the same penchant for color and fun. It's a one-piece jumper with cropped legs and a deep veneck. A geometric pattern is splashed across it in shades of tangerine and teal. Wherever women wanted to assert their right to its express themselves. It seemed this daring beachware would follow. As the 1930s dawned, the stars of the silver screen further glamorized pajamas in their many styles. Fashionable, sensuous versions traveled back from the resort to the bedroom. Film star Ginger Rogers,

Starting point is 00:31:00 modeled pajamas on screen and off. At the demure end, in a still shot from a film, she is seen in a neatly tailored pair with a collar. Another outfit from late in the decade reveals her more dramatic side. The photo shows her in a glamorous indoor, ice blue satin look, complete with covered buttons over skirt. Hepburn favored an equally luxurious version of pajamas in a photo from the same air.

Starting point is 00:31:51 Hers or gold trimmed robe. Naturally, there were still pockets of resistance to all of these options. Although it was not in tune with the general public sentiment, A convention of health officials made the news in 1931 by getting in an out of pajamas versus night shirts at a Washington, D.C. convention. A headline in the Pittsburgh Post Gazette breathlessly reported, pajama night shirt viewed flares at health meeting. Nonetheless, the people had spoken. They would have their trouser fashions for day and for night. Pajamas began to specialize in a way.

Starting point is 00:33:03 Featured on the covers of magazines such as Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, and Life magazine, they took on new functions. One could find pajamas to wear in the kitchen while gardening or while gardening. or while sailing a yacht. Having a special pair for any important daily occasion seemed quite chic. Back at the seaside, the era of beach pajamas continued throughout the decade,

Starting point is 00:33:43 but the onset of World War II diminished their influence. One reason might be the advancements and textiles, which improved elasticity in women's bathing suits. Prior to that time, many swimsuits were knitted, which caused them to sag and lose shape once they were wet. Covering up such a bathing suit made perfect sense. once the garments became better fitting, it seems likely that more women felt comfortable shedding the outer layer. Another reason for the decline of beach pajamas may simply be that there was less frivolous attention paid to leisure trips at the shore. As with World War I, the focus was on the crisis at hand. not society and fashion on the sands. Pajamas didn't go away, of course. Throughout the 1940s,

Starting point is 00:35:04 they still appeared on celebrities and in movies. Claudette Colbert made them look great in a 1942 film, the continuing demand for comfortable sleepwear eventually resulted in another step forward. Women began to wear them as silk shirts and shorts, often bearing Asian influences. A style known as baby doll pajamas was also introduced. These tended to feature frilly, short bottoms and a sleeveless smocked shirt. With the dawn of the 1950s, men finally started to have a little bit more fun with their own pajamas. Finally expanding beyond the stripes that had held sway for decades, retailers began offering matched pajama sets in plaid, hazelie, and multi-tone color combinations.

Starting point is 00:36:24 This may also be the first time novelty prints made in appearance on loungeware. This included the atomic themed pictures that are synonymous with the era. Many men chose to add a coordinated robe to their ensemble, blurring the line between sleepwear and loungeware. Pajama shirts that were marked as crossover sportswear. With the fashionable patterns and types of collars that were being offered, they really weren't much different than casual shirts. An article in a Kansas newspaper from 1954 estimated that the dollar volume of

Starting point is 00:37:25 Pajama sales had replaced neckties as a Christmas gift for men. Women and children were wearing pajamas at home too. Adorable kids in their sleepwear were the stuff of Middle America in the 1950s and a subject for nostalgic art. Although the same article stated that 86% of pajamas, of pajamas or being purchased by women, the author acknowledged that it was impossible to know how many of those sales were for the ladies themselves and how many were for men in their lives. Whatever the case, pajama sales in the United States continued to grow, doubling what had

Starting point is 00:38:27 been spent by consumers just five years before. Another notable evolution in kids sleepwear from the 1950s production of the iconic footy pajama. These one-piece blanket sleepers evolved from the old-fashioned union suit, which was formerly thermal underwear. The addition of the non-skid, closed feet at the bottom resulted in the first mass-produced footy pajama, which was marketed under the name Dr. Denton's blanket sleepers. Trousered sleepwear for the entire family was fairly chaste in appearance at the time, and its youth centered around the home. this was in keeping with many other American values of the era.

Starting point is 00:39:42 Not surprisingly, however, the turbulent 1960s turned that modesty on its ear. Even as some of the traditional styles of the 50s continued, some racier versions of women's pajamas began to appear. The smogged and frilly baby doll pajamas women had been wearing for years could now also be found in more provocative fabrics that brought lingerie to mind. Advertisements from the period still show many prim and proper cotton sets. However, Gazi chiffon, and silk baby doll fashions adorned with lace and bows were also increasingly popular. These were sometimes called sleep sets, and they were a perfect companion to the swinging cocktail culture

Starting point is 00:41:00 seen elsewhere during the era. Another exotic option, a wide-leg, Turkish-style palazzo pant, became popular by the end of the decade. As one ad from 1967 proclaims, a woman was able to choose either sweet or saucy from the range of pajamas available at the time. She could express herself just through her selection of loungeware. At the same time, pajamas hit the high fashion runways. Much as they had once stormed the beach with Coco Chanel. In 1968, the designer Halston showed a line that ranged from minimalistic fabrics and cuts to tie-dye, elevating the form to sophistication once again. It seemed the men of the nightshirt guard had permanently lost their battle for American value.

Starting point is 00:42:18 The year 1975 saw a particularly scientific change in pajamas that were worn by children. In order to improve fire safety, the United States Consumer Product Commission instituted the rule that all children's sleepwear had to be flame-retardant and close fitting. With time, the requirements have been adapted, but decades of children can now remember growing up wearing this close-fitting sleepwear. And it was often emblazoned with their favorite cartoon characters. In 2021, Business Insider declared, We are living in the golden age of pajamas. And with the rise of home offices, that seems almost undeniably true. With more people staying and working at home, society updated its sleep wardrobe.

Starting point is 00:43:37 Nowadays, pajamas shoppers can find just about any style that expresses their interests or personality. Pajamas and pop culture have merged. Now what a person wears to bed is part of their personality and style possible to find ideal pajamas for beloved pets. According to Business Insider, pajamas made up a $10 billion industry worldwide in 2019. but are on track to grow to $18 billion by the year 2027. And people are not just buying a larger number of pajama sets. They're also spending more on each pair. According to the research group NPD,

Starting point is 00:44:45 styles that cost $50 or more have been growing at three times the rate of the rest. of the pajama market. To invest in special loungeware is to invest in one's wardrobe. Looking back, it's hard to imagine what the British handbook to India would make of modern sleepwear. No longer just for afternoon naps, the humble pajama has taken the world by storm in one wave or another, pajama trends have been a barometer for the pastimes, values, and historical needs of society. Perhaps for women, most of all, the insistence on wearing pajamas was part of a movement to be natural and to freely express themselves. As we work our way toward the middle of the 21st century,

Starting point is 00:46:00 There's no doubt that pajamas are at the forefront. As a society, we want to be comfortable in everything we do day while the world tucks into bed for the night and you snuggle into your own favorite sleepwear. Rest easy. In the end, whatever nightwear you love most, That's the stuff that dreams are made of.

Sleepy History - Pyjamas

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