Sleepy History - Vanilla

Episode Date: March 9, 2025

Vanilla—a scent, a flavor, a treasure with a history as rich as its aroma. Once considered more valuable than gold, this beloved spice has traveled from ancient civilizations to kitchens around the world. But where does vanilla come from, and how did it become a staple of sweetness and comfort? Tonight, journey through the fascinating history, cultivation, and legacy of vanilla, as its story gently guides you into a peaceful and restful sleep.Narrated by: Jessika GösslWritten by: Jo SteerAbout Sleepy History Delve into history's most intriguing stories, people, places, events, and mysteries, delivered in a supremely calming atmosphere. If you struggle to fall asleep and you have a curious mind, Sleepy History is the perfect bedtime companion. Our stories will gently grasp your attention, pulling your mind away from any racing thoughts, making room for the soothing music and calming narration to guide you into a peaceful sleep. Want to enjoy Sleepy History ad-free? Start your 7-day free trial of Sleepy History Premium: https://sleepyhistory.supercast.com/Have feedback or an episode request? Let us know at: slumberstudios.com/contactSleepy History is a production of Slumber Studios. To learn more, visit www.slumberstudios.com.

This is Sleepy History. Sleepy History is a production of Slumber Studios. To listen ad-free, get access to bonus episodes, and support the ongoing production of this show, check out our premium feed. This is The Sleepy History of Vanilla, narrated by Jessica Gursall, written by Joe Steer. Of all the spices eaten around the world, few are as famed as vanilla. A staple of ice cream, cakes, and confections, vanilla was long associated with richness and indulgence. And the history and production of this spice are both incredibly complex. It's somewhat ironic that its name has come to describe the plain and ordinary. Because, as you'll very soon learn, the story of vanilla

is anything but. So, just relax and let your mind drift as we explore the sleepy history of vanilla. Our story begins on the east coast of Mexico, in what today is known as the port city of Veracruz. Back in the 1400s, this region was dominated by the Totonac people. One of the early Mesoamer coastal region, similar in style to those built by the Maya or Aztecs. The ancient ruins of their temples and palaces still stand today, attracting tourists and archaeologists alike. Sadly, the Totonark don't enjoy quite the same legacy as the Maya or the Aztecs, appearing somewhat forgotten in comparison. But they do have one important claim to fame. They were the first people in the world to cultivate vanilla. They were cultivating it as far back as the late 1100s, if not earlier,

and used its scent in temples and amulets. Farmed from the pots of native vanilla orchids and given time to cure before use, it's clear that this spice was highly valued in the Totonac culture. Legend has it that the first vanilla orchid grew upon the burial site of Princess Morningstar, a beautiful woman of the purest spirit and heart. Its bright green vine was said to have sprouted from where she lay, yielding the most wonderful, sweet-smelling beans. So unique and precious was its fruit that the flower was thought to contain the spirit of Princess Morningstar.

Considered to be sacred, it was used to perfume the holy temples, and as a medicine to heal the sick. The Totenak didn't use vanilla as a flavouring though, as it is commonly used today. Credit for this belongs to the Aztecs. It was the Aztecs who conquered the Totenak in 1427, demanding thereafter that a tribute be paid to them. Within this offering, the Totonac included their most valuable goods, including the cured and blackened vanilla pods. This is how the Aztecs were introduced to vanilla, or as they would call it, the black flower. Like the Totenak, they would use it as a medicine to heal the sick. Where they differed, however, was in their use

of the spice as a flavor enhancer, most notably in their cacao drink. From as far back as 1000 BCE, the Olmecs of this region had been using the cacao bean to create drinking chocolate. The cacao bean was revered, much like vanilla. In the Maya creation myth, it was one of the first foods gifted to the humans by their god. It was so valuable to the Maya that it was common to exchange cacao beans at weddings, rather than rings. So, perhaps it was only natural that the Aztecs would experiment with their recipe for drinking chocolate. The sweet, black flour seemed like a natural ally of the somewhat bitter cacao, and indeed, it was. The addition of vanilla resulted in a sweeter, more balanced version of this ancient hot chocolate. They named the drink Chocolatel, and it was extremely popular amongst the Mesoamerican elites.

Of course, a secret this sweet couldn't stay in Mexico forever. This being the age of European expansion, foreign explorers were sailing the globe, claiming lands and goods in the names of their monarchs. So it seemed only a matter of time before one such explorer would sample the delicious chocolate. That man was Hernán Cortés, a Spanish explorer and soldier. The brutal conquistador had the backing of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella, rulers of the recently unified Spain.

His ships would have flown the country's red flag when they arrived in Veracruz in 1519. Though this hadn't been his intended destination. He'd actually sailed in the wrong direction when searching for the fabled Spice Islands of Indonesia. So he wasn't to discover the nutmeg and cloves grown on those islands, or anything like the pepper and cinnamon, popularized in Spain by traders from Arabia. What he'd find instead was a spice quite unlike any other. He would be the first European to taste the vanilla sweetened chocolate. He likely tasted it while interacting with any of the dozens of indigenous groups he encountered.

But he might well have also had it when he first met the Aztec Emperor, Motekusoma Shokuyotsin, more commonly known now as Montezuma. Accounts from the time describe how Montezuma opened the palace gates to those Spanish invaders. They were treated to a grand feast, with hundreds of dishes served as a main course, and an abundance of fruits for dessert. Cortes and his men would surely have tasted foods that they had never even imagined in their homeland. This was a brutal and tragic night, during which the Spaniards may have killed hundreds of Aztec warriors. But accounts also tell of the chocolate that found its way onto the table of the Emperor. Naturally, eyes were drawn to Montezuma, who ate little of the fruit.

He drank instead from a goblet of gold, filled with that delicious liquid chocolate. A Spaniard in attendance would describe the affair in his memoirs years later. He wrote of fifty large pitchers being brought to the tables, with thousands of drinks served by the end of the evening. The drink itself was said to be a liqueur of cacao, served at room temperature and wonderfully frothy at its top. The Aztecs were observed to esteem this liqueur above all others, though it's clear that it left an impression with the visitors as well. Cortes himself lauded it in his letters to the Holy Roman Emperor, Charles V. Calling it a divine drink, he claimed that a cup of Chocolatel permits a man to walk for a whole day without food. Sadly, we're without an exact recipe for this divine chocolatel, but through various

sources of information, we can piece together a good idea of what it might have looked like. Firstly, large mounds of cacao beans would have been roasted above a fire, releasing their aromas into the air. They would be turned and moved continuously by hand, proving ready once the skins began to loosen. Off the heat, the thin shells would be removed one by one. Even with many hands at work, this was no quick task. But eventually, what was left were the shell-less cacao nibs. nibs. These were placed onto a heated stone slab, and ground back and forth with a heavy stone mano. Once the beans resembled a liquid paste, this was placed into a pitcher and whisked with hot water. Then came the addition of that precious black flower.

The cured, blackened vanilla beans would be sliced open, and the caviar-like seeds dropped into the mixture. This was stirred in to balance out the cacao. It was common to add chilli powder too, a touch of warmth in this fortifying drink, which may have also included turkey or fowl broth. More might be added, too, depending on the type of chocolatel being made. After all, Aztec drinking chocolate came in many forms and colors. Along with the brown elixir sipped by Montezuma, there was red and black, orange and white, chocolate. Petals and seeds ground into powder would alter the colour and taste. And the use of tender green cacao beans would result in a softer, more delicate mouthful.

To create its famous foamy texture, it was said that the mixture was poured from pitcher to pitcher. The upper container would be held at a great height, its liquid frothing like a waterfall as it hit the base of the one below. With its treasured ingredients, unique flavor, and the labor required to make it, Aztec Chocolatel seems the definition of a luxury drink. So it's little wonder that Cortes would export it home, loading bags of vanilla pods and cacao beans onto his ships. The Aztecs had believed vanilla to have medicinal properties, particularly as an afrodisiac,

and the Spanish were quick to adopt it for similar uses. They also mixed it with tobacco, creating a rare and exclusive blend affordable only to the Spanish elite. Its most common use, however, was still as an additive in the chocolatel-inspired drinking chocolate. The drink proved very popular in Spain, and by the late 1600s, it was commonly enjoyed amongst Europe's upper classes. It was commonly enjoyed amongst Europe's upper classes. No Spanish aristocratic household would be truly complete without a set of tableware dedicated to chocolate. In England, chocolate houses sprang up around London, hot spots where the elite would socialize over drinks. Though it wasn't quite chocolatel that they were drinking, but another altered recipe.

Mostly served warm, this variation tended to be free of chilli powder. It was made with European cocoa and sugar, both grown throughout the colonies. As demand for the drink increased, it became relatively easy to supply and obtain the required ingredients, except when it came to vanilla, that is. vanilla, that is. The problem was that whilst the vanilla orchids grew across the continent, they were only pollinated in Mexico. And pollination needed to happen in order for the plant to produce those luscious, sweet vanilla pods. What we know today is that the particular species of bees and hummingbirds that pollinate these orchids only live in Mexico. It's the only country where natural pollination happens.

There would be countless attempts to grow vanilla elsewhere, on plantations in the colonies, and in greenhouses across Europe. Growing on vines, they would twist upwards across tree trunks, taking water and nutrients from the surface of the bark. Or if cultivated, they might stretch instead along a man-made trellis in a glass greenhouse. With each trial, the plant itself would briefly flourish. For just 24 hours, it would open up its yellow-green petals ready for pollination. And when this didn't happen, the plant would fail without producing any pods. So, despite much effort and experimentation, the secrets of pollination would remain a mystery for quite some time. It's for this reason that Mexico would remain the sole producer of vanilla up until the 19th century. That was when the actions of a 12-year-old enslaved boy changed everything.

12-year-old enslaved boy changed everything. While it is tragic to consider a child being enslaved, the story of Vanilla would be incomplete without acknowledging his incredible contributions. his incredible contributions. Edmund Albius lived in the French colony of Réunion, an island in the Indian Ocean close to Madagascar. This was one of the places that colonists had unsuccessfully attempted to cultivate vanilla. Albius was enslaved in the home of a botanist, and had learned much about the plants in his care. He discovered what had eluded so many before him, a method of manual pollination. Each orchid flower only lasts for one day, so quick work is critical. One morning, a flower opened, and Albius gently tore its petals and pushed aside its protective

membrane. Using a blade of grass or a thin bamboo stick, he took pollen from within the anther, the plant's male reproductive structure. Next, he lightly brushed pollen onto the female part of the flower, the stigma. Now pollinated, the plant could produce fruit. The whole process was complete in a matter of seconds. Straight away, the orchid showed signs of pollination, though it would take about nine months before the pods were ready to harvest. This innovative 12-year-old had discovered a method that was quick, easy, and effective. One that could be replicated elsewhere.

Shortly after his discovery, orchids were being sent to other tropical locations, along with instructions for pollination by hand. Madagascar, the Seychelles, and the Comoros Islands, all would be home to thriving vanilla plantations. And with production now possible outside of Mexico, it meant an end to the country's monopoly of vanilla. Less than a hundred years after Albius' discovery, Madagascar would overtake Mexico as the world's leading producer. It holds that distinction to this day, producing over 3,000 tons each year. That's over 40% of the vanilla produced globally as of 2018. Indonesia comes second in the world's ranking, manufacturing around 30%. That's just below two and a half thousand tons.

Mexico, by contrast, produces around 500 tons of vanilla annually. Around just 7% of global output. of global output. And the tradition lives on in cities like Papantla, in the heart of Veracruz's vanilla growing region. Some of the people who live here are direct descendants of the Totonac who first grew vanilla, and they continue to cultivate it as their ancestors did. Just a hundred years ago, the streets of Papandla ran black with vanilla. Laid out on plaited bamboo, it was left to dry in the sun. Papandla was referred to as the city that perfumed the world, owing to its vanilla-scented

streets. Still today, Papantla is home to the annual vanilla festival held in early summer. you'd find beans, oils, and extracts on sale, all carrying the sweet and spicy aroma that Mexican vanilla is known for. You might buy an ornamental black flower, delicately crafted from an emptied bean pot. Or taste an Aztec Chocolatel, a modern version of what Cortes thought so divine. You might also see the Dance of the Flyers, an old Mesoamerican ritual. This wonderful dance is performed by a group of five men, wearing traditional Totenak regalia, red trousers, white shirts, a cloth worn across the chest, and a cap upon the head. These clothes are heavily embroidered, and as symbolic as they are eye-catching. Embroided flowers represent fertility, mirrors for the sun's

light, and multicolored ribbons represent the beauty of the rainbow after a downpour. These finely dressed men climb a pole, sometimes 30 meters tall. One heads further up, remaining on a platform at the top of the pole. He might sit or dance, playing drums and a flute. The other four sit down around a square wooden frame, just below this soaring platform. Here, they harness themselves using a brightly colored rope. Each rope is wound around the air in the most graceful, bird-like of ways. From above, it looks like a moving pyramid, with splashes of colour at the top and each side. This wonderful performance is a tribute to the gods, who are said to enjoy watching a

dance from above. It's thought to have started after a drought which threatened to destroy the vanilla crop. It was hoped that an aerial dance as spectacular as this would gain the gods favour, resulting in good weather. Papantla is now famous for these dances, and 100 new students are accepted every year at Papantla Flying School. This dance remains a call to the gods, performed in the hopes of a good vanilla harvest. No matter where it's grown, the weather makes a big difference to the quality and yield of the crop. As does the geography, climate, water, soil, and shade. Not to mention the type of vanilla orchid the bean grows from. There are 150 varieties of the plant. And much like grapes in a vineyard,

the tiniest variation in conditions or process can result in a vastly different flavour of product. can result in a vastly different flavor of product. With vanilla production happening in various tropical locations, we can enjoy different subtleties of type, depending on where it's grown. it's grown. Connoisseurs of the spice might guess at its origin, based on its unique aroma and taste. Mexican vanilla, for example, is spicy and almost chocolate-like, whereas Tahitian varieties are tropical, they taste fruity, even floral. Ugandan vanilla, on the other hand, is said to be rich and earthy, but also subtle in flavor. but also subtle in flavor. Whereas beans from Indonesia are smoky, woody, and altogether more complex and powerful.

Madagascan vanilla is what most of us would think of as having that classic vanilla taste. It's creamy, sweet, and just strong enough to delight the senses, without being overpowering. What's consistent amongst all varieties, however, is the value placed upon the product. Vanilla today is one of the most expensive spices in the world, second only to saffron. Just as it was to the Totonac in the 1400s, it's a prized commodity. In fact, in many of the places where it's grown today, the dried vanilla pod is worth more by weight than silver. The pods are kept in factories behind locked gates, patrolled by guardsmen. Farmers will even tattoo their names onto the green pods, enabling them to track and

trace their own brand of vanilla. The shelves of a factory might be valued in the millions of US dollars. As export prices soar, profits continue to rise. Some fortunate suppliers have even earned the title of Vanillionaires. It might appear surprising that the spice remains so expensive, being that it's now produced across so many different locations. But vanilla remains a rare and precious thing, requiring a great deal of care, time, and attention to produce. The vanilla plant is the only orchid of its kind to produce fruit,

and can only grow 20 degrees north or south of the equator. north or south of the equator. It will only grow if conditions, climate, and weather meet requirements, and will often take years to produce its first flowers. Even then, it is important to remember that each flower opens for just one day each year, and withers within hours if it goes un-pollinated. modern plantation in a place like Madagascar, there might be thousands of flowers growing. So every blossom must be individually checked daily, to see if it's open and ready for pollination. for pollination. When a flower is ready, it must be pollinated before noon. This is done by hand, with a toothpick, using the very method discovered by 12-year-old Edmund Albeus. Once pollinated, each flower produces just a single bean, which takes around 9 months to form.

These beans must be harvested manually and cleaned. Photosynthesis, whereby plants use sunlight to create their own food, is still occurring at this point. It doesn't stop until the green pods are placed into water and heated to 60 degrees Celsius or 140 degrees Fahrenheit. The beans are in the water for only two minutes. That's just enough time to activate enzymes within the pods and begin the curing process. Following this, the pods are stored within a closed wooden box. The box is insulated with waxy paper and kept at a constant temperature. This stage of the process is referred to as sweating the vanilla, and often results in some truly delicious smells.

The beans are kept within the sweet smelling box for two full days. Then comes the drying stage, lasting three weeks in total. This involves the pods being taken from the box for a few hours each day, and placed onto outdoor blankets to dry beneath the sun. After this, there is another three week period dedicated to drying indoors. The pods are removed from the box and left to develop further. This can take upwards of two months. Throughout this stage and after, expert hands will continue to sort through each individual pod. Each pod is massaged by hand to help release its inner oils. A single pod in Madagascar will receive an average of 2,000 massages before it's eventually shipped and sold.

From initial pollination to a quality end product, we might be looking at a timeline of 18 months or more. That's over a year and a half of care and attention for a single pod. It's this whole process that makes vanilla one of the most labour-intensive spices that we're able to candles, shower gel to body spray. Naturally, it remains a key ingredient in anything sweet and edible. Where there's cakes, pastries, or cookies, this sweet spice is never far away. It's nearly impossible to think of ice cream without also thinking of vanilla. ice cream without also thinking of vanilla. Interestingly, the first recipe for vanilla ice cream in America is kept within the United States Library of Congress. Its author is Thomas Jefferson, a founding father and third president of the United States. It was a popular ice cream flavoring in 18th century France, where Jefferson was serving as a diplomat.

He was such a fan that he brought it back to America, where it was frequently served in Washington. Over the years, the popularity of vanilla ice cream has continued to grow. However, much of what's sold today is made with imitation vanilla, derived from a single compound within the fruit. Vanillin, as it's called, is the compound that gives vanilla its unique flavour and aroma. It has the appearance of tiny white crystals, only just visible upon the blackened pod. and pod. Scientists found a way to isolate this compound in the 1800s, paving the way for synthetic vanilla. This dominates today's market, being far easier and cheaper to produce.

But it's no substitute for the real thing. Not in taste, aroma, or the wonderfully rich story that lies within these pots. From beginning to end, each bean is loved and cared for as if it does indeed hold the spirit of Princess Morningstar. You You You You You You You You You You You You You You You You You You You you