Slow Baja - Forty Years Of Surfing Punta Abreojos With Craig Larson And Mark Pestrella

Episode Date: October 14, 2021

Craig Larson and Mark Pestrella have been surfing Punta Abreojos together for more than 40 years. Inspired by Bruce Brown's Endless Summer, they've been seeking waves and finding adventures along the way since High School. I met them when I stopped by to check out their well-evolved camp. I found Mark smoking a cigar and reading a signed, first-edition hardcover of Into a Desert Place by Graham Mackintosh. I knew right then that I had met some serious Baja aficionados. We shared a fine bottle of Fortaleza Anejo Tequila and solved all the problems of the world. Enjoy our relaxed conversation about adventure travel, surfing, and the toll that Baja extracts. Follow Craig Larson on Instagram Check out the Baja Bound Insurance Learn more about Benchmark Maps Learn more about Tequila Fortaleza Check out the Black Bass Lodge

Hey, this is Michael Emery. Thanks for tuning into the Slow Baja. This podcast is powered by Tequila Fortaleza, handmade in small batches, and hands down, my favorite tequila. Hey, I want to tell you about your new must-have accessory for your next Baja trip. Benchmark Maps has released a beautiful, beautiful Baja California Road and Recreation Atlas. It's a 72-page large format book of detailed maps and recreation guides that makes the perfect planning tool for exploring Baja. Pick yours up at Benchmarkmaps.com. Hey, it's Slow Baja, and I am in... Wow, look at the waves. Sorry.

I'm in land of distraction already, checking these waves peeling out here. Punto Abriojos and ran into a couple of guys who are just doing it right. Got a surf camp right on the beach here. I slid into their camp last night with a bottle of Fort Laizza and Yeho. I think we solved all the problems in the world. And here I am back to get a podcast and really talk to some guys who've been at it for a long time about surfing and the surfing life. And we're not going to reveal any secret surf spots. We might not even use our last names.

I'm going to leave it up to Mark and Craig. But I wanted to do a show about surfing and the devotion to the craft. and these guys are it. And here we are. There's a lot of wind and ocean noise, but the waves aren't quite going off yet, so we're going to get a few minutes of talking. So take it away.

Mark, do you want to introduce yourself? Yeah, hey, this is Mark calling it in for Abraejos. Craig? Say hello. Yeah, hey, I'm Craig. I've been coming down to this area for close to 30 years, and it's a special spot as you're finding. Yeah, so I mean, I stopped by because really basically I just want to check out your truck.

I hate to say it that way, but it's a well-diled-in dual cab Chevy truck, Goodrich All-terrines, and, you know, all the stuff that you need and nothing you don't. And I thought, you know, somebody's got this figured out. You've got a shade tarp on some well-placed poles that I think are dug in about 18 feet below the surface. And we're sitting here in the shade. watching the waves break and who wants to talk about their first Baja trip? I'll start. Junior in high school I believe is probably 1980 and 17 years old and our folks let us drive to Baja with my older brother who was just two years older than I was.

But what an eye-opener. You know, there's that element of danger. the allure of the unknown, you know, you just don't know what you're going to run into. And we didn't actually find perfect waves that trip because we had gone in the summertime, and most of the swell is blocked by the Viscano Peninsula. So we were up in the area that's better in the wintertime, but that was something we discovered later in life. So, yeah, so get back to surfing pre-internet.

I mean, there was a lot of word of mouth, a lot of maybe magazines, reading or or talking to folks but you guys are both Southern Californians what was it like to you know get in that I think you know nobody had a rig like this back in the day so what was it like to get in a crummy car and head south of the border yeah mark take it away I mean we the thing we do we'd walk you know watch dr. George on ab seven 87's news you know ABC and uh local local station LA and they do you just be talking about weather and so back then and even to this it's still like all about the weather when you want to look for waves. Like Craig was saying, you know, we're pretty, pretty simple when it came to which way swells came from,

but we got more sophisticated over time and be able to read a weather chart and understand when there's going to be waves somewhere. But as those early days were just like absolutely just about adventure, you know, just wanting to get out, find that perfect wave. We were surfing Huntington a lot and, you know, we were looking for an adventure and for the perfect wave. We had seen a Bruce Brown's movie, you know, and an endless summer, and just, like, kind of blew our minds about, hey, you can travel and you can surf these foreign places. So we got this great idea because we started picking up these little Toyota trucks. You know, they weren't even four by it first. And being able to go anywhere in a truck was a big deal. So, of course, we ventured down to Baja, as Craig said with his brother.

And we used in compass, compass and dead reckoning to figure out how. to get out to the coast. In the show notes, you'll find out what dead reckoning is, kids. Yeah. And, you know, teaches you a lot when you're out there and you basically have to carry everything you need to survive in your truck with you, water and everything else, and land on a beach like we have here today and have nobody around. I mean, you find out real big time, the world is a big place when you do that and that

you can survive and be resilient on your own. It's a freeing thing. It really frees up your mind and freed up our thinking. and then to get waves, on top of that, it's something that's changed or been with me my whole life. Probably born with that idea, but to actually exercise it and make it come true is just ingrained in you to travel to get out. I think that's just in everybody, but you have to untape it, and I think that's what happens. Surfing allows you to untap that. Craig, you want to expand on that?

What's that? Do you want to expand on that? Oh, sorry, Craig doesn't hear very well. I'm looking at the waves. Retired firefighter here. No, it's so liberating to get down there. I was telling Mark, we're so fortunate to live in Southern California and have this right on our doorstep. And, yeah, it's just, I start to look forward and think, I'm 58 now, and I think,

how many more trips do I have? You know, and so I'm retired now, and hopefully Mark will retire here soon, and we'll get a lot more trips in. So those first days traveling down here, I'm assuming, you know, you probably didn't get that far south of Tijuana in those days, maybe K-38 or where would you go? Or were you always saying like, hey, man, we're going as far as we can because there weren't a lot of early 80s. There weren't a lot of guys surfing, you know, those spots around Ensenada. Yeah, no, our first couple trips down. we came down to the Seven Sisters area, one of our first trips. But then we discovered that, yeah, you're right, there was a lot of untapped waves just in that northern zone.

And so we would go to K-38 a lot. There's another spot just north there called Teresa's. And we could camp right on the bluff there at K-38 back then. San Miguel had a really good wave. So, yeah, there was a lot of untapped, and it wasn't as big of a commitment to surf those northern beaches. So let's talk about pitfalls of surfing in places where there were locals in the 80s. Any problems with losing things? Things disappeared.

Down here? Yeah. Car thefts, car brake. You know what? Knock on wood. I was just telling work, I've never had anything stolen here at Abriojos. So, yeah. Yeah, I know.

We were, you know, imagine the age, you know, we were college age or just out of high school. you know, coming down and, you know, partying on the beach and wake up to, waking up to people in your tent with you. I mean, I actually had a situation where we're in Brown San Quintin, and we were down in an Arroyo, a bunch of guys surfing all day, just celebrating the surf that night, like, passed out in the tent and wake up and have a guy over the top of me, pulling stuff out of my, pulling stuff out of my tent, you know, and just jumped out of my tent, running, you know. And so other situations, you know, getting pulled over, getting pinched by the, by the police, you know, the policeia.

I'm always finding out, though. It's funny, like, getting pulled over, one time getting pulled over in the middle of nowhere and getting searched, brought back to the station, ended up paying 50 bucks each to get out of there. By the time we got done, though, was like the guy was like our best friend. He's helping us put the tequila and beer back in the car

and, like, sending us on our way. So we've always found the people here in the culture here to be really open and friendly and the families to be amazing. And some of the most ingenious people, resilient people we've ever met, you know, and warm. I mean, the help we've gotten through the years. And then just to sacrifice, every trip has some kind of, some kind of sacrifice, something happened. We've had boards fly off the top of a car, you know, the middle of the five freeway in San Diego and just had to bail.

You don't want to go back and get it. It's a hard place to get a board. Yeah, like Volkswagen vans breaking down down here and towing a Volkswagen van all the way back to the States behind an old Chevy. So yeah, every trip has it has every surf trip has some kind of sacrifice to it. It's funny, and I think it's just part of it. But the payoff is, as you can see, and we're watching the waves right now, it's like, it's just amazing. There's no one in the water. There's a guy fishing over there for a halibut, and we're just waiting for the wind to turn,

and we know it's going to be a good day. You can actually see the swell in the water, so we're just waiting for that wind to turn around, and we're going to be out in the water for some time today. Well, I won't keep you too long here talking about surfing, because surfing is something you that's much better done than talked about but what sort of um both of you fellows are committed to this sport what sort of trouble is that brought to you in your life with relationships and other things Craig do you want to start on that um yeah has surfing got in the way of any relationships marriage others i don't want to pry too deeply no i'm married 32 years now and my wife i was a surfer

when she met me so she kind of knew what she was getting into and she knew she knew in order to to have the man she married she's going to have to sacrifice a little bit and let me go on some trips and get my fill of waves and you know once i've done that i'm a much happier much much happier guy to live with so um i i wouldn't say my relationships have suffered at all in fact they probably thrive because i'm a surfer yeah well i'm kind of a different story i mean i've lost a lot of girlfriends basically over serving you know just being not being present always serving in my mind somewhere. And through the years, my wife, the distraction, my wife was like, you know, just go serving.

I mean, that's why we've stayed together as long as we have, you know, my wife and I, like Craig said, you know, we found the right girls to marry because they were, they were tolerant of and they understood. You take that away. You're going to take the life out of these guys. So my wife never tried to take it away. In fact, my favorite story about my wife is our two kids were like two and four at the time, and it was Christmas Day.

And I had that look at my eye. I was sitting there and she just looking at me. And I was like trying to be pleasant, being some. and she hands me this card, and it's like, go surfing all day, don't come home. And it was the best Christmas present I ever got. And the reason I'm still with my wife today. So, yeah, but there's been a lot of stories in between where, you know, I mean, this guy, Craig's saying it wasn't a problem. I can remember us surfing and him getting in deep trouble, not getting out of the water,

he's looking at his wife in a bridesmaid dress in the parking lot, screaming at him to get out of the water, and he's like, I can't get out. the waves are too good. Oh yeah, I forgot about that. So it's an obsession, but it definitely a way of life. People call it a sport. To me, it's just a way of life. The ocean in general is a way of life, and it can possess you for sure. You let it, it will possess you for sure. Can you talk about the health benefits, mental, physical, amount of time you spent in the water just thinking about it, what that does for your soul? Yeah, like I think I kind of hit it with my, when I was, talking about my wife and the our relationship that it's it's i need it i have to have that outlet

um i have to you know if i i love the mountains too i love backpacking but if i'm up there for a little bit too long i's my my i start yearning for the ocean and it's just you know um yeah the mental health for me is uh it's just so freeing relaxing um recharging it's like it's a it's a it's a easy reset So, yeah, it's very important, I think. Mark, do you remember that first time you paddled out and actually got up? Well, we started out, body server. My dad's Hawaiian guy, and he lived on the Big Island, Hawaii Lighthouse Keeper's son, actually. Wow.

And his thing was know the water. You know, the way he taught me was like you don't get on a surfboard or anything. You start, like, looking at the water and understanding how the ocean works. And then, of course, gain respect for the ocean. So we were swimming a lot, and we were body surfing. tremendous amount of times body serving but I do remember the first board ride is funny is I had an old log and somehow was like an anomaly brought it down to the beach and just like I think it was in Huntington like the first one like it turned around and rode the board straight

to the beach and just the way that the same feeling gliding when your body serving the way that the board was gliding over the water just watching the water go by the board what a what a moment man time and it just from that day forward actually just from the day I was born being around the water so to me me surfing is more than about just being on a board or something it's like actually engaging with mother nature and with no guarantee it's a wilderness and that wilderness like as craig said it stretches your mind makes you think gives you solitude away from people you know we rarely talk to each other in the water because you're just you're just in your own mind what's going on and surfing for anyone that knows been around for a long time.

It's not a performance sport. It's actually just every person has drawn their own line on the water and having their own experience. We compare notes, but the bottom line is, it's like if you're out there in the water and you're enjoying yourself, you're basically surfing. And that's the way I kind of look at it.

And a place like this again, man, the waves are looking pretty good right now. When I stand here too long, we're getting ready to go out. But yeah, it's been a way of life for me. Growing up as a Hawaiian kid, Portuguese Hawaiian, you know, and being around the water is sort of the cultural thing. And then in the mental health and physical health part of it

are definitely, definitely an absolute plus to it. So, yeah. You know, we can't wait to drive our old land cruiser down to Baja, and when we go, we go with Baja Bound Insurance. Their website's fast and easy to use, Baja Bound Insurance, serving Mexico travelers since 1994. Hey, do you have a 4x4? You love off-road racing.

join Slow Baja in the Nora 500. It's Ensenada to Ensenada three great days, October 7th through 10th. Kurt LaDuke, Offroad Hall of Famer leads the class. If we can do it in our old truck, you can do it. Get your street legal four by four, get into the safari class, and I'll see you in Ensenada. More info at nora.com. That's www.n-N-O-R-R-A-com or on Slow Baja. So, yeah, like Mark said, I started off body surfing, then we graduated to a boogie board, then I actually was a kneeboarder for quite a while. Kids in the show notes, you'll find a link to kneeboarding. Yeah, half man, half man is what they were called. These were so cool, I used to see them at like yard sales in the 80s.

What are these things? That was a big deal. Yeah, and so then my older brother was. started surfing and I can actually remember watching one of the early contests, the Caten contest back in off the Huntington Pier and I can't remember how old I was but my brother was like if you start surfing you could be as good as that guy you know like in five years and I was just like that was it I just he had an extra surfboard like shaped by Terry Senate of infinity surfboards and he gave me that board and man I remember the first time I got up it was just so

much different than just being on your knees you're so there's no movement. movement. There's no, you know, you're not fluid. But yeah, I remember that that first stand-up ride. The Caton Canvas sponsored there again, I'm just like, I'm getting younger by the minutes sitting here with you guys. There's an old Willys in my neighborhood, an old Willie station wagon, probably a 62 that's got a really cracked old Caton canvas decal in the back window. Is that, I don't know, I'm assuming they're still in business. Canvas by Caton, they're still there in Seal Beach. Yeah.

Still there. Burnwell's been bought out. Is Caten part of a conglomerate? It is, I think. I can't remember who bought them out, but they're still, they still have some pretty small roots in the community. So, Greg, you and Mark, again, dialed in, a couple of guys who've been doing this a good long time. Talk about some of those early trips and some of those vehicles and some of the adventures, capital A adventures that you found here. Wow.

My first, when I first landed a good job that I could afford a nice vehicle. One of my best trucks was a Ford F-250, and that opened up a lot of doors coming to Baja, four-wheel drive. You know, you didn't worry about breaking down. And, you know, back then when we first started coming here, this road into Aubrey-Ohost wasn't paved. It was a dirt road. And quite a pretty gnarly dirt road, too. a lot of washboard but man we had some great trips back then I can remember this one trip we a buddy of mine we pulled a trailer down and broke the leaf springs right coming into

Greerre d'Agro and all our stuff was in the back of this trailer so we roll into Grosnegros limping there and this guy this Mexican guy proceeds to make leaf springs out of sheet steel he's cutting it with the torch and he gets a trailer back up get going to again and charges like $40. I think we gave him $100 because we just couldn't believe it. And that trailer made it into Abriojos and all the way home. So a lot of these trips, it's not just about the waves. No, exactly.

It's about everything you run into and the people you run into on the way. You know, that's that's the beauty of it. Yeah, back in the day I had a four, four speed, uh, Zuzu trooper right out of college, like first, first truck I bought and we take that thing everywhere, man. It was slow, but it could climb, you know, and carbureated. And we took a couple different trips. One, I remember out San Quintin, you know, driving out San Quintin and, like, driving the sand dunes out to San Quintin with a wrapped up inflatable in the back of the truck

and going over the sand dunes, getting out there, we get out on the sand dunes. We're sitting there camped out in the middle of nowhere, no one around, and we're catching fish like crazy off the point. And around the corner comes these federalies. they're coming on hummers on the other side of the inlet and we're in the boat. These guys calling us over there checking to make sure we're not taking a lobster. You're talking about two scared kids, man. Interesting trip there.

And then other times just like driving a mule hay in that thing with my wife and checking out all the different points in between, like Craig says, the journey down here, the effort to get in is usually what's the whole story and the mistakes you make and learn from and survive from. So, yeah, the cars, everything from, I mean, I had a Ford Falcon in college. Old Ford Falcon, $800, totally stock. And we drove that thing with, like, I think it was like six surfboards stacked on top and went to Tijuana Airport. Parked it in Tijuana and flew to Porta Vallerta and flew into mainland and actually surf mainland. So just talking about cars and surfing.

I've had everything from A to Z-Z Volkswagen, that Ford Falcon, the Zoo, the F-250, different campers. You're describing my camera now where that thing's an evolution of a lot of years, basically formed by the weather. You know, it can handle the wind, it can handle the rain. It can handle like climbing out of bad places. Essentially, the truck becomes your self-sufficient zone, you know, and everything in it was pretty much hand put together. You know, the cabinets and everything are all built.

I built them myself with the idea exactly where everything needed to go in that truck to get us here. And it's paid off. I call it my Baja vehicle. That's what I use it for. Whenever I'm in Baja, that thing comes with me. And Craig, you're sleeping under a tent, a very small, lightweight tent, no-fly screen, so you've got a view of the stars and the sun comes up, you're up. And Mark, you're sleeping under a, on a cot underneath just a, like a mosquito screen, a little net here.

Yeah. Pretty evolved setup, but very, very Spartan. What do you think about that? How have your camping setups evolved over the... years. I think I actually we just, I came up with this little pole setup a couple years ago. Um, it was pretty easy. Stakes, some hose clamps and some fence, fence poles. And then we bought this shade. And, you know, down here you got to have some shade. It's just, uh, otherwise the sun will just beat you. But, um, yeah, without, without bringing a trailer down here, you're, you're, you're,

kind of limited on what you can really do. And this is kind of the pretty, pretty quick light setup. So it's, it's been working out really good. Well, I've seen some tents blow away with a lot of stuff in them like your clothes and your wallet and what have you and 60 mile an hour winds to places in the desert that you just never ever find them again. Yeah. And so your tent, I remarked last night in a pretty stiff wind. I'm like, man, what have you staked your tent down with rebar? And you said, yeah, actually. That's exactly what I did.

Made ten stakes out of rebar. And that's a throwaway tent. You know, that's a one, that's a one trip deal. But yeah, the winds here can, I've seen it too. I've seen everything from longboards to tents to chairs out in the water, you know. So in fact, in fact, we were surfing the wall and during the wintertime, they get the Sanana winds. I mean, crazy Sanana winds. And I had just shaped a brand new longboard nine footer.

And I had just gone to bed and I was laying down. The truck was buffeting from the wind. And I had laid my longboard right outside the shell. and I just see something white fly by the window. Oh, no. And it was low tide. And that point is just cobbles, just big rocks. And my board was out there.

It looked like it got run over on the 405 freeway. I just, that was a sacrifice. Yeah, there's a lot of, like I said, sacrifices to coming down and losses. And it's just material goods, but they can make or break you, you know. If you lose your shade structure, you're pretty much done. If you can't get out of the wind, you're done. and, you know, just everything, your listeners can imagine anything. You've got any way to live, a minimalist, it looks like a minimalist camp,

but everything has a purpose here, and it's related to not really comfort as much as like survival, whether it's the water you got to bring or, you know, the food you pack in to go or having the connection in town here to get things fixed like we talked about earlier. And that just comes with experience doing it, you know, actually living in the dirt. And I always said, you know, just driving out into the dirt and live all. off the land. And even at one point, just okay, bring the fishing stuff so we can, for cestinence, we can catch a couple of halibut, which yesterday caught a couple halibut. And it's like, you basically, you basically can live off the land here, but it's one of the most harsh environments

on earth. And it's been well documented how harsh it is. And what's testimony to that is all of the ruins you see here, people who have tried to settle. And we joke that there are houses here. Now we look around. We see these nice American-style houses. But we've seen those come and go. people come down and it's just too much for them. So it is a wilderness, even though you see these nice homes here, Michael, I'll tell you right now, we're taking bets on how long they'll actually be here because the weather here and the, you know, hurricanes, everything else that come in here, they take a huge toll on our man-made structures that are around here.

So everything you're looking at is like beefed out because of the weather, but it's, as Craig said, it takes a beating and not having the right equipment is like one of the biggest mistakes you can see people make. Well, let's jump into words of wisdom, gents, and then I'll leave you to your day. Words of wisdom. Craig, maybe you want to start if you're sitting there somewhere, not familiar with Baja and don't have your 30-plus years of experience driving down here? What would you tell somebody straight up they're going to drive down, they're going to be on road,

and then maybe they're going to drive a little bit off-road or something and get to a beach? Where do you go, advice-wise? Wow. You know, I think in the day and age today, you can get online and you can find a lot of information that we unfortunately weren't able to get. So we had to pay our stripes just with, you know. Yeah, you had to earn your experience. School of Hard Knocks. Well, I think a young person now, they can get a lot of information and, you know, they can take that step to come down here a little more confidently than the one we had.

So, but I think the important thing is, just do it. You just got to do it. You can't, you know, if you let fear dictate your life, you're not going to do a lot of things. And so I'm just, I'm grateful that we stepped out when we did. And, you know, we weren't scared and let fear keep us from coming down here. But, yeah, I would just say, just go for it. Mark, that's the word from a firefighter who just charges into burning buildings. Yeah.

Yeah, and I'm the engineer. And we have the engineer who's going to put it a little more. I'm philosophical about it. Yeah, Craig talked about fear is a great divider. It is what's going to make you go or not go. And all of us have that fear in us. I've done a lot of thinking about that through the years, being here camping alone, hiking, surfing alone.

People are worried about sharks and the animal life here that can do damage to you. And it's all like taking on that fear and going. But one thing I would tell anybody, like young, I have two young sons. You know, I tell them, you know, put down the phone, put it all down, put it all the way, just get your feet in the sand and in the water, take the watch off and, you know, experience the whole thing. You can, you can have that experience in a lot of different ways, different places. This is one of the most extreme places to have that real world experience where you're just a human being in touch with nature, you know,

And that's the getaway. For me, being a very busy executive, being able to come out here and drink some good tequila with a nice guy like you. That's Fortaleza Anyahu, folks. Fortaleza Anya out in the middle of nowhere. Yeah, that was a good bribe, man. Delicious. But bottom line was, you came into our campsite. You got to experience what we do.

It's simple. You were just sitting around a basic campfire, having a shot with friends and telling stories. there's no internet and it's all you and mother nature we went scorpion hunting last night as you know and we uh we saw plenty we limited yeah we enjoyed that so i'd say this you know respect respect for mother nature is what i tell everybody find yourself by getting out and don't be afraid to do so as Craig says great advice like step out get away from the world as it exists and get yourself into nature well i knew when i uh came down the beach here walking down the beach last night checking out the scene and I came upon your camp and I mean there's there's nobody camped

out here so it was a couple hundred yards from where I'm staying out just checking out the waves I'd seen you guys surfing earlier and I walked in you've got your hat on you've got a cigar and you had a something in your tumbler I didn't know what it was and you're reading grand macintosh into a desert place signed first edition hardcover and I'm like you know I love that a guy's bringing a 30-year-old, you know, signed hardcover to Baja with him to read. And what a better book. So I couldn't help but introduce myself and then invite myself over and bribe you with my last bottle of Inejo, Fortale's Inejo.

But, you know, I'm lucky I've got the folks at Baja Bound insurance helps me out with the show and sponsorship. And that's one of the things that you guys haven't touched on. But if you're listening to the show and you're trying to figure out, like, how do I, how do I get to Baja? How do I start this? How do I become Mark and Craig in 30 years? Baja bound insurance is going to get your insurance and allow you to get down here. And I was

showing off the new benchmark map to these guys. Of course Mark already has one because he's an engineer and Craig was checking it out and was saying he needs to get over to Bahia Tortugas and of course you know you just look at these things and you realize like there are little dirt roads here and dirt roads there. You just scratch the surface. And we're just scratching the surface. And you guys have been doing this for 30 years.

I've been bumming around for 30 years down here. And you realize you were just scratching the surface. Yep. A lot more adventures out there, for sure. Well, we're going to leave it right there. Thanks, guys. I appreciate it. Yeah, thanks, Michael.

And hope our paths cross soon. Yeah, for sure. Thank you, Mike. All right, we did it. Slow Baja's wardrobe is provided by Taylor Stitch. Responsibly built for the long haul, Taylor Stitch makes clothes that wear in, not out. Wherever your adventure takes you, Taylor Stitch has you covered.

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