TED Talks Daily - Sunday Pick: The poetry of Nepal's bridges | Far Flung
Episode Date: May 11, 2025To get to school, work, or another town in Nepal, it helps if you don't have a fear of heights. That's because this mountainous terrain (it's home to Mount Everest after all) is connected via THOUSAND...S of bridges. Whether permanent or seasonal, made of bamboo and rope or pulleys and wire, suspended above incredible mountains or rapid waters, the Nepalese have networked their country through amazing, unique, and exhilarating engineering. Find out how building and re-building bridges became a part of the nation's culture, and how trusting that a treacherous trip is worth the risk shapes the way the Nepalese perceive connection, community, and what in life we ought to hold onto. For more podcasts from the TED Audio Collective, subscribe at youtube.com/tedaudiocollectiveWant to help shape TED’s shows going forward? Fill out our survey!Learn more about TED Membership here! Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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Hello, TED Talks daily listeners. I'm Elise Hue.
For today's Sunday pick, we're bringing you an episode
of another podcast from the TED Audio Collective
handpicked by us for you.
There is a place where a network of thousands of bridges
connects pretty much everything.
I know the image of thousands of bridges sounds fantastical, but this isn't fiction.
This place really exists.
And we're taking you there with the help of the podcast Far Flung.
Host Salim Reshamwala takes us to Nepal, home of the tallest mountains in the world and
the land of many bridges, and digs into how these structures shape the way the Nepalese
perceive connection, community, and what's important to hold on to in life.
To hear more unique ideas and stories from around the globe, check out Far Flung, available
wherever you get your podcasts.
Now on to the episode right after a quick break.
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You're hearing the sound of wind on the longest-span pedestrian bridge in the world,
the Baglang Parbat footbridge in Nepal.
It stretches over 500 meters, about 1,600 feet, between the mid-hills of Nepal.
Now, hills in Nepal are very, very different from what the rest of the world might call
hills.
On this bridge between two hills,
there's a river below you, absurdly small looking,
because it's 122 meters, that's 400 feet down.
You're 400 feet up in the air, 400 feet.
Just for comparison, if you took the Statue of Liberty
and stacked another Statue of Liberty on top of it,
you'd still have 98 feet to go until you reach this very thin wire suspension bridge.
I'm not scared at all.
In this recently built long bridge, my husband was scared at first,
but I crossed it effortlessly without feeling scared.
My husband was scared at first but I crossed it effortlessly without feeling scared.
It's such a pleasant thing being on a bridge.
It takes you from one place to another so easily without any risk.
I really enjoy being on it.
Now people even go to the bridge to just see it.
People consider crossing the long bridge to be a spectacle now.
Many people say they feel scared on a bridge because it is shaky or something like that. But I feel so safe that I feel like I am in my own house.
In their own house!
Or a thin strip of metal in the sky.
I'm Salim Rushimwala and from TED, this is Far Flung.
In every episode, we visit a different location
to understand ideas that flow from that place.
And today, we're heading to one of the most mountainous
places on earth to see how building bridges
creates connections.
And not just between two points.
Now Nepal is known for extremely high mountains, but it's easy to forget that people are
moving across those mountains.
In most places you might not think twice about a bridge you cross, but in Nepal, bridges
are fundamental to survival, the only way to move without trekking up and down a huge mountain.
It's a place where bridges are constantly being born.
All kinds of bridges.
Rope, steel, trees, bamboo log bridges that are basically floating on top of the water
that they help you cross, and bridges that sing in the wind unimaginably high above you. And when you live as high up in the air
as some of the people we're talking to today,
when getting to your town or village
might be days of hiking up and down massive elevations,
well, a bridge, it changes everything.
The spark for this episode came from a line
from a poem called Tuiin by Strauburn Mukaram.
It's about crossing a particularly dangerous kind of Nepalese bridge.
I will hold on to a tuwain.
If I reach across, I will see the world.
But if I fall, I will become a fish.
He thinks of himself as the people's poet.
He often writes about rural Nepal, and here he's writing about the fine line between
life and death when a person makes a dangerous journey hanging from a wire crossing bridge.
Here's how Nepalese tweens work.
There's a single wire rope and pulley system for getting you across dangerous heights. You can transport
everything from practical goods hanging in baskets to groups of say 12 school children
all attached to the wire, harnessed in with nothing else below them.
Mukadung was born in 1968 when most bridges in Nepal were in this style.
when most bridges in Nepal were in this style. The first memories I have of that time and bridges,
I remember the river in my village.
I would have been 7-8 years old.
We would cross the small river to go to the nearby village.
What we had then, we cannot really call that a bridge.
The first thing I crossed was just a wooden crossing, or parque.
Parque was made from a tree log and laid out along the river for people to cross.
The other kinds were made by tying bamboos together and sprawled out as river crossings.
These were temporary structures
and could be used only during the dry winter months,
but they would be swept away by the floods
during monsoon season.
This was how I was introduced to bridges.
I mean, I'm not sure I would have known
to call that a bridge either.
Bamboo tied together, disappearing every season, It's so ephemeral. And not
a thing to be crossed casually. But even as bridges get stronger, even on a sturdier wire
bridge, how do people even get their mind right to cross?
The first metal wire suspension bridges, which replaced the wooden and bamboo crossings,
were extremely shaky. You needed to catch the rhythm of the bridges sway to be able to
walk on it. The bridge sways on its own rhythm but that rhythm is created by the
impact of our feet on it. It almost creates a musicality. It is obviously
scary at first but eventually you get used to the rhythm of the sway.
So if you catch the rhythm of the bridge, you will cross easily.
But if you fail to catch the rhythm, then you might not be able to move
and might have to crouch down in the middle, and you can never overcome the fear.
The first time you step on it, you are of course scared. Scared of falling off.
Scared even of dying.
As I recall, people from my village would travel to far away villages for special festivals, fests, and local markets.
One of my own aunts had traveled to a weekly local market to sell piglets.
She reached the market, sold them off, but while returning, she fell off one of such bridges and died.
Falling off these bridges and dying are common.
It made people experience the space between life and death.
It gives a traveler a new curiosity and a new imagination.
That's what I think when I think about bridges.
First, the fine balance between life and death.
You can either fall off and die or go out and see the world.
And second, that new imagination and curiosity.
To explore that story of life and death, that imagination and curiosity,
we needed to talk to people on the ground. Hi my name is Nayan. I am a
researcher slash translator based in Kathmandu. My interests lie in culture,
society, and politics of Nepal. Hello my name is Ranjan. I'm a musician, DJ, producer,
and I also record sounds from different places
and different occasions.
And I love to use them in my music or my sessions.
Here's one of his tracks,
working with found sounds. While visiting relatives in India years ago, I took a side trip to Nepal, stayed in Kathmandu,
the capital where a lot of tourists start, took a 6-7 hour van ride to Pokhara, arrived
absurdly early, and climbed to a viewing point in the
darkness.
I remember holding my son on my shoulders, the cold air had this crispness to it, and
seeing the sun spread a beautiful, rich, reflective gradient across all the mountains around us.
At least they were what I would call mountains. But Nayan, he corrected me.
So Kathmandu Pokhara are the valleys in the mid-hills, right?
But if you go further north,
then we're talking about the mountains.
And for a regular audience,
like, mountains and hills are different.
One of my American friends from college came to visit,
and then she lands in Kathmandu and
Kathmandu is surrounded by hills for us but apparently mountains for a lot of people.
I told her like yeah you'll see some hills like smaller hills from Kathmandu and she
just comes out of the door from the aircraft and she was like what the hell these are the
craziest mountains of all we're seeing but you go further up north than the real mountains.
For us, mountains have to be snow-capped, right?
So like they have to be white and silvery.
So basically-
I love that distinction that, you know,
if it's not white, snow-capped and silvery,
maybe some clouds around it, then it's a hill to y'all.
Yeah, yeah.
Very, very, very important district.
Ranjan and Nayan are going to help us find out how these bridges,
these connectors of mountains being born again and again,
are changing the country.
So, Nepal is by area, it's a pretty small country,
but it stretches from east to west.
So north-south of Nepal is very,
like as the crow flies, very short.
But within these like sort of less than 200 kilometers
of average distance between north and south,
you have tremendous geographic diversity.
Both Ranjan and Nayan grew up in Nepal.
Ranjan's from the southern plains region.
In terms of language, food and culture,
it's pretty similar to the northern part of India. In terms of language, food, and culture, it's pretty similar to the
northern part of India. It's very flat, so it was relatively easy for him to get around. But Nayen?
I come from what used to be a pretty remote and disconnected place. Right now, with all the
road connectivity, it's pretty close by. Like, it's not very far as the crow flies,
which is a big disclaimer in Nepal.
Like it's a small country,
but like sometimes it might be just like 80 kilometers
as the crow flies, but might take like, you know,
eight hours on these crazy roads in the bus
or like two days of fog or something like that, right?
Right.
You'll hear as the crow flies a few times in this episode,
but keep in mind that crows flying across
gigantic epic mountains have it way easier than people going up and down them. So as
the crow flies tells you basically nothing about how long a journey will be.
As Nyan started traveling around the country, he started realizing just how diverse Nepal's geography is, and how even short trips put him
in totally new environments.
If you travel from southern plains,
like within half an hour, you get so much elevation
and you are in a very cool place.
Like the south of Nepal is generally warmer, right?
And then as you're driving south to north
from anywhere in Nepal,
then you gain so much altitude so immediately
that you're immediately in 30 minutes of driving,
you are in a completely new climate, new temperature,
new geography, new way of life, new food, new dress up,
new, I mean, even like sort of the people
sort of like facial features and like the ethnic groups
and they all change, it's an extremely diverse country
in that sense.
If you ask an outsider to picture Nepal,
they might think of the Himalayas,
those white snow capped silvery mountains,
highest in the world,
but travel down toward the mid hills,
which are still giant.
And you'll see what look like tiny threads connecting them.
The scale of these bridges can be completely deceptive.
They are such a huge, not only physical material presence
but they are visual presence
in any Nepalese experience, right?
One really, really striking thing
of working in this project.
No one really thinks about bridges
like as
something to think about but once you ask questions about breezes to people
once you ask people to reflect about breezes, my god they have stories. There are
a lot of songs, there are a lot of poetry that people have written like you know
it's always like you know I'm on this side you're on the other side and it's
monsoon like we'll not meet for another three months." I love that it's causing poetry and songs. Like this one.
The morning sun beams off freshly tempered steel, giant metal arcs compressed deep into the ground,
suspended into the clouds like a single metal wing discarded between heaven and earth.
It sways back and forth.
That's Gaurav Subba, an emce MC and spoken word poet and friend of Nayans.
Nayan was telling Gaurab about his trip, and he was inspired to start writing.
Curiosity lingers as they open the doors, but none take steps across the cable floors.
Make room, they say, for the mules that cross with heavy loads.
If they fall, what is not loved is not lost.
There's this reaching when you cross a bridge.
You have to trust that the bridge itself will hold you,
but you're also trusting that the other side of the bridge,
this often unknown place, will be worth the trip.
A little insurance couldn't hurt.
That's after the break.
This show is sponsored by Aura Frames. My mom taught me that thoughtful gifts connect
people. And that's exactly what Aura does. Named Best Digital Photo Frame by Wirecutter, it stores unlimited
photos and videos that appear instantly on my mom's frame, no matter where you are
in the world. Plus, setup just takes minutes. Save the wrapping paper, every frame comes
packaged in a premium gift box without a price tag. Ready to win Mother's Day? Nothing
says I cherish our memories like an Aura digital frame.
And Aura has a great deal for Mother's Day. For a limited time, listeners can save on the perfect
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We're back with our earlier poet, Sjabar Mukaram, discussing a Nepali tradition around crossing
bridges.
It is in our tradition to bow down and pay respect to the hills, to the rivers.
It is a manifestation of the harmony and an acknowledgement that life is only possible
because of this coexistence with nature.
Even though we make the bridges, it is vital to our life, and so we need to worship it.
It is a belief that the bridge will reciprocate our faith and lead us to our destinations.
There might also be a psychological side to making an offering to the bridge,
so that you don't lose focus and balance on the bridge.
You need to be in a state of meditation to cross the bridge.
A state of meditation?
That's such a specific mindset.
It's borderline spiritual.
And crossing these bridges creates connection. People aren't the
only things that cross. With them comes information, ideas, traditions, new ways
of thinking and doing. People do business on the other side of that bridge.
Children can now go to school to learn on the other side of that bridge. I mean
people will fall in love and maybe have babies with folks they meet on the other side of the bridge. With the creation of a bridge in
a place with so much isolation, all concepts of identity and geography, even
the limits of what's possible, they suddenly shift. These bridges connected
societies in every sense of the word, economically, socially, connecting people of different castes and ethnicities,
different occupational groups,
different languages and cultures.
We need bridges not only to facilitate our physical needs
and services for better survival,
but also to join these different communities.
For facilitating that process of greater mobility of all citizens and greater interaction and
exchanges, we need bridges.
But what about places that can't build a strong bridge?
In many places where people can't build proper bridges, they have to depend on basic
wire crossings or tuins.
Such harsh realities still exist in remote places of the country, where kids are still
forced to cross rivers through these dangerous tuins to go to school.
Unlike proper bridges, tuins are much more fragile and riskier.
You have to literally hang in a wire to get across. Your chances of making
it across are equal to the chances of you falling down into the river. It is an immensely
risky journey.
But being aware of death, being close to it as you move through a commute or a journey,
for Mukharam, that doesn't need to lead to a life of fear or
cynicism.
It exists in that great uncertainty. One needs to get across that uncertain journey of life.
It is a poem about uncertainty, not about fatalism. I will hold on to a twin. If I reach across, I will see the world. But if I fall,
I will become a fish. So, aside from the danger, why are these crossings filled with so much emotion?
The crossing of the bridge marks an episode of sadness and tragedy.
As the person leaves for abroad, he leaves behind sadness and uncertainty to their beloved, their kins and their neighbors.
They might die in the distant land and never come back.
They might forget the homeland and make families in the strange land.
Had there been no bridges and the villages remained isolated,
maybe the person would never have left.
On the other side, some person returns,
back after working abroad for a long time,
and also crosses the bridge.
In this, the bridge becomes a symbol of his journey,
of that full circle.
The bridge would be the final thing
to support the person complete his long journey back home.
Here's Gaurav Subba to help keep that scale in perspective.
This suspension will not take you from Long Beach
to Manhattan, but it might, if you take a step,
take you from your past to what's happened.
And just imagine the compassion of courage it takes to take that step.
So we're in this like new highway.
So now we're on the road with Nayan and Vranjan.
Location in little over an hour.
Is there any name given to this highway?
It goes along one of these three major river systems in Nepal by the name Kali Gandhaki, right? So it's one of those three major river systems flowing from the Himalayas into the south eventually goes into
Bay of Bengal
So this is called like Kali Gandhaki Corridor because most of this highway goes along this river
Which is very scenic and one of more beautiful places to drive.
Oh look another breeze!
I mean you will see a lot of those down there. It's not even a major one.
Is that a new one or the old one?
I mean I cannot even tell there are so many breezes along the road.
I mean, I cannot even tell. There are so many bridges along the road.
And they continue driving,
making it to an incredibly busy outdoor market
full of fruit stalls, restaurants,
the local equivalent of a bodega.
And it's part of the lead up to the biggest of those bridges,
the Baglang Parbat footbridge,
the over two statues of liberty tall bridge
that we began with.
It's one thing to see it in papers, read about it,
see videos, but it's completely different thing to be there.
It just goes on and on and on and on,
and it becomes like smaller and smaller
and almost disappears in the horizon other side.
When I really looked at it, it was beyond my imagination.
Sometimes you look at massive thing
and your mind stops actually.
There's that state of meditation
that Mukaram told us about.
I thought Ranjan and I would be talking on the breeze.
But no, we went our own ways and we were all silent.
I think that was sort of like a special energy there.
I'm curious, who did you meet and talk to at the bridge?
I would love for you to,
could you describe those folks for me
and tell me what you learned from them?
We met like a lovely bunch of people.
One of them was a government official, a middle to low range official who was our first point
we started with and we didn't expect much, but he was such a jolly person.
He also sang for us.
Yeah, he also sang for us.
What you're hearing is a love song.
He's singing about seeing his love on the terraces of a field, maybe sitting on the
ground or even more picturesque, perched on the branch of a tree.
Fittingly, the landscape makes her unattainable.
Our meeting is impossible, he says.
My love is across the river, while I cry on this shore. I cry, I cry, I cry.
Later, Nayan and Ranjan met an elderly gentleman who told the story of a local man who wanted to build one of the initial bridges across the Kali Gandaki River.
He went to Kolkata to bring back iron, which an ironsmith of the Biswa Korma caste from here made into chains to build a bridge across the Kali Gandaki River.
That is how it began.
He would measure the span of rivers and bring enough cables to make bridges.
It was done entirely by the people. A road was built to
Nodara around 1970 when the SPR was built. Cables would be dropped off at Nodara. Citizens
from here would carry those cables here on their shoulders. You'd have to take turns,
rest to eat. Entire villages would travel to carry back the caples.
People of that time worked so hard.
There's no comparison between people then and people now.
So many people were swept away as they crossed the river.
That encouraged people to build bridges.
There's no river or stream left now without a bridge.
It's a huge shift. Here's Gaurav again.
across the length. Suspended in clouds, typhoons swell underneath. There is no lightning, only currents that pull beneath. A half day of walking. I've never
lived anywhere so isolated. How's that feel for a kid? Did you ever feel isolated
when you were growing up in Nepal? Actually not, because the world for
you, what was this bounds, that little valley,
that was a world enough in itself.
You had just one shop, you could not spend 20 pence,
and life was good, man.
So that idea of like something existing out there,
I mean, in hindsight,
Brazil played a part for me
and my own awareness of the world existing
beyond that little valley that I grew up in. I feel a lot of other things. Isolation wasn't one of them.
I love that distinction that when you have your whole world around you,
you can't feel isolated. You have the whole world.
Exactly.
How's that change a place? From feeling like you have the whole world in your little village
to actually being connected have the whole world in your little village to actually being
connected to the outside world.
It feels like a different place.
And that's very reflective of how the balls changed in my lifetime.
I'm in mid-30s.
I've seen this place change absolutely in every sense of the word, economically, politically, in terms of the connectivity
of the people that coincides with all these like roots.
One example that I can think of in terms of how my beliefs
had changed and it continues to change
at a mind-bubbling rate every time I go home,
like one year after, two years after, right?
Now, the people would make their own like sort of local
millet brews or local alcohol, but now people
are like all these bottled beers and bottled liquor.
That's all with the breezes and the roads connecting people.
Of course, I would be careful not to romanticize the childhood I had because it was tough and
it was tougher for a lot of people.
But it's become much easier, but the police has become unrecognizable.
It's such an interesting balance between trying not to romanticize but also still remembering
the good things that happen.
Oh absolutely yes.
There's absolutely a loss of innocence somehow but it's someone who is sort of like has done
decently well or has decent means in life so I think it's not fair to say that just
because an innocence has been lost isn't worth all the changes that the
breezes and roads have brought now.
That's so interesting thinking of a bridge as having an element of loss of innocence.
I feel like we've got to give the last word to a poet.
Every step is a glimpse of possibility,
every pull and inspiration to reach the other side.
But while you are here in the process of crossing,
just remember you are attached to nothing
yet connected to everything.
Far Flung is produced by Jesse Baker and Eric Newsom of Magnificent Noise for Ted. Our local producers for this episode are Nayan Pokhrel and Ranjan Jha.
Our production staff includes Sabrina Farhi, Elise Blenner-Husseth, Huwete Gaitana,
BamBam Chang, Sammy Case and Michelle Quint with the guidance of Roxanne Highlash and Colin Helms.
Translations by Nayan Pokhrel and Pravin Adhikari. Special thanks to Gaurav
Subba for the use of his poem Sekar Parajuli for field interview support
and to Sushruth Acharya, Praugyan Tapp Ghimire, Radha Burma, Sajanya Acharya, and
Viraj Maharjan.
For our English voiceover, our fact checkers are Nicole Bodhi and Paul Durbin.
Ad stories are produced by Transmitter Media.
This episode was mixed in sound design by... Kristen Muller. Additional music by... Ranjan Jha.
Our executive producer is...
Eric Newsom.
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