The Bossticks - Breaking Through Fear Barriers & Hardships With World Record Holder Garrett McNamara & Nicole McNamara
Episode Date: February 21, 2020#249: On this episode we sit down with Garrett and Nicole McNamara for a him and her aspect episode. Garrett is known for breaking and setting world records by surfing the largest wave ever surfed. Ga...rrett has an incredible story struggle and perseverance, constantly pushing past fear barriers to set new records. Garrett's wife Nicole is a wealth of wellness knowledge and mother with a mission to help those around her. Enjoy this wide ranging conversation with this dynamic couple. To connect with Garrett McNamara click HERE To connect with Nicole McNamara click HERE To connect with Lauryn Evarts click HERE To connect with Michael Bosstick click HERE Read More on The Skinny Confidential HERE For Detailed Show Notes visit TSCPODCAST.COM To Call the Him & Her Hotline call: 1-833-SKINNYS (754-6697) This episode is brought to you by Ancient Nutrition Did you know that your skin, hair, nails and connective tissues are all made from collagen? And, generally speaking, once you turn thirty, your body naturally slows in its production of collagen. That's WHY collagen supplementation is so popular in the wellness and beauty community AND why Ancient Nutrition created Multi Collagen Protein. Get $10 off your order now by using promo code SKINNY10 at www.ancientnutrition.com WOO MORE PLAY is the all natural and organic coconut love oil that is changing the way we have sex. With only 4 all natural ingredients WOO is the perfect personal lubricant to spice up your sex life. That's just the pre-party. All Him & Her Listeners will receive 20% off your entire order plus free shipping when when visiting www.woomoreplay.com & using promo code HIMANDHER at checkout. Produced by Dear Media
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The following podcast is a dear media production.
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Let's slide into the show.
She's a lifestyle blogger extraordinaire.
Fantastic.
And he's a serial entrepreneur.
A very smart cookie.
And now Lauren Everts and Michael Bostic are bringing you along for the ride.
Get ready for some major realness.
Welcome to the skinny confidential, him and her.
And when I hit my head, I almost knocked out.
So I got to the board and I'm spinning sideways trying to hold on and seeing everything spin like I was about to pass out.
And all I could think of was my kids and Nicole and them being without a father.
It's Friday, everybody. We made it.
Welcome back to the Skinny Confidential, him and her show.
That clip was from our guest of the show today, Garrett McNamura.
For those of you that are new to the show, my name is Michael Bostic.
I'm a serial entrepreneur and brand builder.
Most recently, the CEO of the Dear Media Podcast Network.
I think at this point about 30, 35 shows under management.
I should probably know that exact number.
I'm going to dive into it, I promise.
I'm typically joined by my beautiful wife, Lauren Everts,
the creator of the Skinny Competential Brand Book, podcast, blog.
I mean, a lot of things now.
She's got a lot of things cooking.
She's taking a little break right now.
If not in the studio,
maternity leave with our new baby that we just had,
which has been, you know,
it's throwing a little kink in our life.
We've got to adjust around the baby schedule.
We both have a new boss, it seems.
So this episode, we are joined by both Garrett
and Nicole McNamura.
They are an interesting, to say the least,
couple have a lot of accomplishments under their belt.
Garrett is an American professional big wave surfer
and extreme watermen known for breaking the world
record for the largest wave ever surfed at Nazare, Portugal, surviving a monstrous wave at
Jaws and riding a tsunami. Yes, he wrote a fucking tsunami from Calvin Glaciers in Alaska. He holds
eight world records. He's got a wild story, which we get into on this episode. And guys, when I say
biggest wave ever surfed, I mean, this thing was the size of a fucking skyscraper. And he
surfed it. And he is just like a regular human being. And when you look at it, you can pull of it,
you know, we talk about it in the episode, you literally can look on YouTube, Garrett McDonorroro,
wave surfing, like the biggest way of our surfing. It's literally looks like he's, like it's not even
real. It's like, he's like a little tiny dot on this thing. He had a really wild childhood. His mother
took him to Central America where he was the victim of domestic abuse early on and really kind of,
you know, he's obviously persevered and became a very successful person in his own rights.
Got a beautiful wife, Nicole. We dive into all sorts of different topics together.
She told the story about like how they came together is incredible. And you know,
three beautiful children later. So we have a lot to learn from them now with children of our own.
Lots to unpack here from a very unique episode, from a very unique couple.
Guys, with that, enjoy the show.
This is the skinny confidential, him and her.
All right, both of you highly recommended by two of our favorite guests.
You know, we extend the invites for a few people that can come on whenever they want,
Tara and Khalil.
They could not say better things about both of you.
Welcome to the show.
We're going to go a lot of different directions.
But let's start it off.
Both of you.
We'll go one at a time.
Let's get a little bit of background.
Where are you from?
Where'd you grow up?
And then we're going to go deeper.
I'm from Florida. Florida, where?
Fort Lauderdale.
Okay.
And I grew up there.
And after college, I was a teacher.
I taught middle school for six years.
And then I was stand-up paddleboard racing, and I went to a race in Puerto Rico.
And Garrett started stalking me because he was there for an event.
And I ended up running away with him, and here we are.
I was actually there for a surfer ceiling, an event that takes autistic children surfing.
It was a charity dinner that night.
for the foundation and Nicole was standing on the side and I'm like well who's that girl over there
pretty much love at first night that's how I felt about her I saw her sixth grade she came in she was
fully developed I thought she was a substitute teacher I was like four foot one and I was like that's it
done I basically looked the same in sixth grade minus the this is a true this is a true story
true story yeah no I just sort of I looked over and I thought it was like she was like the babysitter
or subteacher I was you know I was like a little twerk and she was a fully developed woman and I was
like you got a little girlfriend at the time I was like you're out and I was like you're out
I'm going over here.
So how did each of you guys get into extreme sports?
Pretty much fell into it.
I moved to Hawaii when I was 11 and just started surfing because I loved it.
And it all of a sudden became a profession.
It was really a fluke when I had become a professional surfer.
And then big waves became my passion.
Once I had a really memorable session that I enjoyed,
then it was just, that's what I fell in love with big waves.
And it was bigger and bigger and bigger until there wasn't anything too,
big. Yeah. I'm like I mean I we're glazing over the fact that you are literally the world record
holder of the biggest wave ever surf and I think you know just saying professional surfers not doing not doing
yourself a service because you I was looking at clips and videos of you before you came in here. I don't
know how you do that shit man that is fucking insane. I mean the the waves are almost as big as this
fucking building. Yeah what floor are we on here? What store? How many stories? 10th. 9th. Yeah,
they're about this big actually but maybe a little smaller than that. What is that? That's probably about
130 feet or?
Yep, I mean, roughly, yeah.
Do you have anxiety when he's surfing these waves?
No, I have anxiety when he takes my credit card or the car or one of the children.
Anything on land, he gives me anxiety.
But on the water, I know he's fine.
That's where he belongs.
And so have you always been into sports as well?
I grew up in a surfing family.
Actually, my dad, I think, is a little crazier than Garrett, so it kind of prepared me for
for Garrett, so he can't do anything shocking, really.
I surfed small waves, but then when I met Garrett, he towed me into a bigger wave, and I was like,
oh my God, this is the best thing ever.
I'm going to be the world's best female toe surfer, and then I almost died in Portugal,
and I've never gone out since then.
So I'm just the extreme wife who's married to an extreme surfer.
So I want to go back a little bit, just to get some context, because I want to tell the story
here to the audience and then I want to envelope into how you guys met and how you got connected.
But your childhood was pretty chaotic, if I'm reading that correctly.
It was different.
Yeah.
So what were the circumstances in you going back and forth between South America and here?
It was that my mother drugged me through finding herself, finding God.
And then luckily, it ended us up in Hawaii where we found surfing.
Otherwise, I don't know where we'd be today.
And so what circumstances led your mom to bring you to places like?
that and how did you how did you cope with that as a young kid she was a house mother and
stopbridge boarding school in upstate New York and my father was a Latin teacher English major
and basketball coach and when I was about one and a half my mom inherited a bunch of money
and said we're moving to California and I'm going to start a hippie commune so we got to Berkeley
right after the people's parks riots were going on she got 30 people together and moved us all
up to Sonoma County, Casadero, and we bought 44 acres, had one house on 44 acres with 30 people.
And that's when she was trying to find herself. And everybody lived in one house together,
running around naked. I actually really enjoyed that part of my life. It was really fun.
So it was you, your brother, your mom, and then? My father as well. Okay. She uprooted us all
from New York to Berkeley to Sonoma County. And envision myself as a little boy just
run around naked and eating watermelon
and I always just see this look down
and see watermelon seeds all over my belly
and we just wrote a book
that's called Hound of the Sea, my memoir
but I wanted to title it
watermelon seeds on my dingong in memory
of those days and it was vetoed
by my wife and the publisher
but I always envisioned this little boy
with a little scribble
but yeah I guess do you guys make
the right choice? What do you think? Hound of the Sea
or watermelon seeds on my ding dog? I would have probably
bought the watermelon seeds on the dingon. Me too!
You know, that's part two.
Do part two.
Okay, okay.
I think you should call it that, really.
I think it'll get some traction.
So when you're that age and this is what your experience, this is a normal experience,
but what's kind of going through your mind is this, like when you're seeing all these people
that run around naked and you're on this commune?
Well, when we're eating peyote at about five, what was going through my mind was all this
watermelon and chocolate was coming out of my mouth like a fountain.
And I was like, I don't remember tripping up, but I do remember throwing up.
And that was at about five.
So we got into a lot of things that you would maybe never get into.
And at a very young age, it gave me a very open-minded, like, adventurous, exploring spirit, I guess.
And how long were you living in the commune?
The commune?
Okay, so everybody started getting their own houses on the 44 acres.
And my mom didn't like that.
She wanted everybody together.
So she told my father, we're going to take a Volkswagen van and go to Mexico.
and he was like, I'm happy here, I'm staying.
If you want to go, you go right ahead.
So she took me and this guy named Mad Bob.
What about your brother?
He stayed with my father.
Okay.
What's going through your mind then when you're being separate from my brother?
You know what?
I kind of either blocked it all out or just went with the flow.
I was pretty carefree and kind of went with the flow.
And I don't really remember, to be honest.
But I remember it was always a lot of fun wherever we went.
And we drove that Volkswagen van with Mad Bob and his two daughters from Sonoma County, California,
all the way to British Honduras, Belize.
And we broke down at least 50 times.
So by the end of that trip, I knew exactly what it sounded like when anything would go wrong with a Volkswagen.
So I knew how to fix a Volkswagen.
Anything to go around, I knew exactly what was going wrong and how to fix it.
It was pretty amazing.
How old are you?
About five.
So you know how to fix anything on a Volkswagen at five?
just by hearing what was going wrong.
And what was the motivation to get all the way down there?
My mom was, I don't know why.
We ended up in a traveling circus halfway there,
and then she met this Mexican guy who, where were we?
We were in, I think, Guadalajara, where she met Louise,
and then he moved us to British Honduras.
And I think maybe she was looking for love,
or I don't know what she was looking for.
Looking for herself is what she says.
We got out of there because the guy that she was with ended up being really abusive.
and we had to escape
and we literally escaped through a river
with crocodiles and with a little rowboat
and got to a bus station
where she sent us back to my father.
So when you say abusive,
was it like,
was it physical,
was verbal,
are you witnessing it?
I don't remember any of it,
but she had shared with me
a few years ago how bad it really was
and I definitely blocked it all out
because I don't remember any of it.
And when you're living on a commune,
is it open love?
Like,
is everyone like swinging with each other?
I think that's what was,
what was going on, but you have to ask my mom.
You don't remember.
No.
You don't remember.
Okay.
Maybe we should move to a commune.
I might have to check one of these.
Where's that commune?
It's the weavers.
It still exists today.
Wow.
That's pretty cool.
It still exists.
We went up there a couple years ago.
Yeah.
Is it weird to go up there?
No, it's pretty awesome.
Little John still lives there who was one of the guys.
He's with his family.
And he lives in the original house that we were building that were still part of
was up of 44 acres up there.
I don't know.
Yeah, it was pretty to share it with Nicole and she's heard so many stories.
And I saw my old Tonka truck was there.
It was like amazing to see all these old things.
Is there anything that he can say now that'll surprise you at this point?
Definitely not.
Yeah.
Well, after being raised by her father, there's nothing I can do that.
I can't do any wrong because he's me on steroids.
So what is your, yeah, what's the story with your dad?
He's just a crazy Cuban guy.
And like, how does that manifest itself?
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Just intensity and very passionate.
Like whatever he is about, it's just full on.
So Garrett loves to surf, but my dad loves to surf more.
So it's just this obsession of surfing every day, all day, have to be serving.
They compete with each other?
No, no, no.
It's not like that.
Different levels, but just the passion of the surfing.
And he's really passionate about the environment.
So like trash, like he refused to shave his beard and his hair and his eyebrows because he has just like one eyebrow and his hair kind of meets each other.
He's really hairy.
He refused to shave or cut his hair until he collected one ton of trash from the ocean.
So he's just really extreme in Garrett's extremes.
Holy shit.
But growing up, that caused, you know, some issues with, you know, me wanting to be free and him being the Hispanic father.
So, you know, many boys didn't want to date me in high school.
I wasn't really allowed out of the house.
What did you have to go through to date her?
Was it like a whole lot?
That was the first thing I thought when I saw her, and I'm like, hmm, I wonder who I'm going to
have to talk to.
But the craziest thing is when she would go to the movies with a boy, he would sit in the
parking lot with binoculars, watch her go and watch her go out.
And there was some other situations.
We got a girl in the way.
I'm going to have to call it your dad for some tips.
I need to get some advice.
Well, he still has the baseball bat that he likes to bring out because he thinks it's really
funny of when he beat this guy's truck, his collector's truck, like Ford Lightning.
I don't know because I snuck out of the house.
with a guy
with a guy
in high school
and he chased the guy
down the highway
for like five exits
and then smashed his
that was the best thing
he ever did
because no other guy
would date or after that
that's perfect for you
so you're like listen
if this giant
skyscraper of a wave
couldn't beat me
you're not going to beat me either
and that's what you need
well lucky for him
he's so obsessed with surfing
when he was like
carrot macbair
oh yeah
oh do you think he'll sign
this poster for me
oh wow
so you're down
I was a fan.
She was like, you're going to come to our house in Florida, and we're going to have to sleep in
separate rooms.
And I'm like, oh, well, we're going to go get a hotel.
We get there, they let us sleep at the same room.
Me and pops are out in the kitchen in the morning in our underwear hanging out, looking
on the computer.
It was just, I don't know.
It was a smooth transition.
Very smooth transition.
So when did you start to get into the ocean?
My father loves the ocean, and he would take us to the beach on the weekends very often from Berkeley,
where he went after the hippie commune.
And we got to go surfing for the first time back then.
I don't remember.
They told me that Mike Powers took me surfing as a guy who actually moved to Hawaii
and still to the state tells me, I took you surfing for the first time.
Then we moved to Hawaii at 11 where I really got into it.
But before that, I don't remember surfing.
So what's going on between the ages of like five and 11 when you left South American
you moved away from your mom?
There's a gap that takes place before you got to Hawaii, correct?
Yeah, we went back with our father who opened a really,
awesome restaurant on Shattuck and Ashby in Berkeley. And we had 20 friends on a two street block,
two block street. And we were having the time of our life. We had a pretty stable environment.
We'd ride our bikes to the window of the restaurant and order and then ride around. We had the
drive-thru before drive-thrus were even a thing. And then my mother came back. And at this time that she
burned the cash that she had? Not yet. That's when she came back and she came back and she
she said, we're going to Mount Shasta and we're just like, oh, no, here we go again.
And we were going to look.
Now she's looking for God, searching for God.
So supposedly God was up at Mount Shasta along with the aliens that everybody was sighting.
And so we get there and we find this cult called the Christ family.
And the Christ family shared with her that she has to burn all her lively possessions, ours as well.
So everything we owned, all the money.
she inherited everything in the fire.
She threw her money in the fire.
All the whatever she had left.
And all of our clothes, all of our shoes, everything.
We had a robe exactly like Jesus cut out of sheet.
And one blanket rolled up that we had on our back.
And we walked the streets for about six months barefoot.
You weren't allowed to hitchhike.
If somebody stopped to give you a ride and offer you a ride,
you could take a ride.
If they brought you home, you could go home with them and they feed you.
We literally, we would see a safe way or a co-op or now it would, you know, a supermarket.
We'd go in the back and open the dumpsters and that was like free for all.
That was where we ate, usually.
And so at this point are you thinking like, hey, my mom's losing it?
Or you're just thinking it's normal?
Like, what's going through your mind?
I'm like, let's get back to dad.
It was the, that was the only part of my childhood that I really did not enjoy.
And what's he, and what's, where's your, what's your dad trying to do?
Is he just like, what the hell is going on?
You know, I don't know.
He was in Berkeley and he was really involved with his restaurant and still kind of hippied out,
having a good time.
When you talk to your mom now and you reflect on this time, is she apologetic or is she just,
does she own it?
Like, what's the vibe?
Nicole's laughing.
You can share.
Sure.
Come on.
There's only a couple people listening.
Yeah, I'm not going to be responsible for this one.
Come on.
It's here.
It's a safe space.
Well, now she's a born and again.
Christian and an article we're going to hell oh gosh definitely after this an article just
came out in the Smithsonian about Garrett and you know it was about everything it was
an bridged version of the book but the author really he went into greater detail
all the sudden he gets this message I disown you I wish I never had you yes and
And it turns out, you know, she's just embarrassed because now all her Born Again Christian Bridge friends read the article.
And she's ashamed.
She's, what, 70, 72.
Okay.
So she, there is some level of understanding.
But she has no remorse whatsoever.
And she doesn't have a filter.
So she'll say these things that are just so left field hurtful.
And we thought she didn't mean it really.
She just, some things are coming out of her mouth.
that she doesn't mean.
And then just recently she proceeded to tell us that she means everything.
She knows exactly what she's saying.
She's not sorry.
So we're just like, don't think we're going to hang out too much anymore.
There's no like drug addiction, mental health, alcoholism, nothing.
Nothing.
And she didn't really get into drugs that like the hippie face.
She wasn't really into them.
She'd partake a little bit here and there, but she never got really deep into anything.
So, I mean, what does this do to a young kid?
what does it do to your self-esteem at that point of time, right? Because you're sitting there,
it's your mom, and it's obviously something that you're looking to protect you. But at the same time,
you're literally begging on the streets, or not begging, but having to just search and
scavenge for foods. Like, what does that do to you mentally? Made me want to be back with my father.
Mentally, it made me very strong-willed and determined and focused. Luckily that we moved to Hawaii
where things are a little slower and a lot slower pace at that time. And I had more this go-getter,
full speed, maybe the East Coast blood still in me.
And so focus, determination.
I'm still here today as a pro surfer, 52.
My career's better than ever was.
And all my friends that I looked up to
and surf circles around me
and their careers ended 25 years ago.
Well, I'll say this too about Hawaii,
which is maybe, listen, I love Hawaii.
So hopefully this doesn't offend you, anybody you're in trouble.
But when you are not from Hawaii,
and you're coming in and you're not a local
and you start to show up with the beach.
Like sometimes that's not the easiest group to get in with.
I mean,
is that when you're a kid coming in and you're on the beach and running around,
you're not from there,
does that get rough at all for you?
We were really lucky that we went through so much as a young age
that we fit right in,
right away.
It was accepted right away.
The first day of school,
I had a fight with one of the locals.
And I had been going to Malcolm X elementary school,
which was blacks and Mexicans mostly.
So I had to fight a lot.
And so the little Filipino local guy wasn't a problem.
and then the next day we started a gang with the biggest, heaviest guys in the school.
And then the principal called us in.
I got everybody, we all got leather jackets.
We're in Hawaii with leather jackets, go figure.
It's only about 95 degrees.
And I'm sweating now.
So the principal was like, there'll be no gangs in my school and he took all of our leather jackets.
But I fit in right away.
Most howlies really hard.
I was really lucky or from my childhood learned how to fit in.
Well, I was reading a quote that you said, and maybe I'm butchering it, but it says, that's who I am, but I chose not to become a victim.
I just kept going forward. I love that you have this non-victim mentality because you had many excuses to take a victim mentality and say, you know, like I'm having a hard time.
You know, my mom's putting me on the streets.
Like you could have gone the other way.
And it seems like you fully channeled this into a productive passion, which is what you've done with your career.
If you're talking to somebody, how do you kind of coach them through?
There's a lot of young listeners here.
And there's a lot of people that get dealt rough hands.
And they're sitting there thinking like, you know, I'm a victim right now.
How do you kind of shift that mentality and start taking ownership of your life and using it to propel you forward?
What would you think, Nicole?
Well, I think it's a good question for you to answer.
Come on.
Because I wasn't ever a victim.
I know your life very well.
I could speak for you.
But I'm actually, no, I'm curious to hear what you have to say.
You know what?
I like that answer.
I like how he looks at his wife and says, I want to hear what you have to say.
You could take a tip or fucking two from that.
What do you have to say?
What do you have to say?
You like push me aside on the Broadway show, like stage and like tap dance.
You could like put your tap shoes away and let me fucking tap dance.
You see this picture right here?
Do you think I had any say in this?
Zero say.
I think I'm cross-eyed in that picture.
Yeah, who cares what he looks like.
Listen, maybe it's a question for both of you because you know, you both in your own right,
have witnessed a lot of this.
But I'm curious because there's a, we get questions all the time into this show, right?
And there's a lot of people that victimize themselves and it holds them back in life.
And they're, you know, and I think hearing stories like yours and hearing, you know,
someone who's gone through hard times that's completely turned around.
He's used it as fuel.
Yeah.
And that's what I think if there is any kind of trait or any kind of, anything that you could give
them to say like this is, this is with the switch.
Yeah.
Well, I can say growing up in Hawaii, you know, there's a pecking order in the water.
And we were at the bottom, the little white boys with all the local boys, but we were friends.
So once in a while, the local boys would let us go.
And my brother especially scrapped for everything.
I was there scrapping a bit here and there, but I didn't get too involved and kind of skated on the outskirts and had fun and enjoyed most of what I went through.
I've always had a good heart, I feel.
I've always wanted to do good and share and help.
But that beginning where we had to scrap for everything was always deep in me that maybe I got to fight for everything.
and once I met Nicole, I started reading a lot of good books.
And I mean, I always was excelling.
The only person that would beat me up was myself, take myself down.
And if I was on the right path, everything just perfect.
If I wasn't, then it was just ugly.
And once I met Nicole, everything was perfect.
And she shared with me so many amazing books and amazing tools and amazing ways of being
that I definitely credit where I am today because of my wife.
Speaking of amazing books, Nicole brought me an amazing book. It's called The First 40 Days, and it's a book for after motherhood to take care of the motherhood, which is super interesting. I selfishly would love to know a couple of things about motherhood. I would love to answer them.
So did you know what you were getting yourself into? Because I don't know what I'm getting myself into.
Absolutely not. I actually wanted to write my own book after the first baby. The truth about labor and postpartum, like the secrets they don't.
nobody ever tells you.
What's a secret?
The other day I heard about this thing
called a smurf vagina.
Have you heard about this?
Someone on my Instagram story.
It's more like a blue waffle.
Oh, I didn't know.
A blue waffle.
A smurf vagina, I'd let my husband know
for all the men in the room,
is when the baby is sitting so hard on your vagina
and all the blood rushes to your vagina.
And apparently you can take a mirror
and look down there and it's a big blue vagina.
Is this true?
Yes.
And it's true that your vagina will not
look like a vagina after the baby comes out of it but does it go back to normal yes yes it does a
hundred percent it really does that was the that was the the positive you know everybody says oh yeah
it'll be fine and it does it does go back to normal like I don't what's the blue waffle
the same thing yeah okay okay so give us you said you wanted to write a book on secrets yeah
well one thing would be the the preface is that every every birth is completely different
even for the same woman.
Like if you have another baby,
it's going to be completely different than the first.
But one thing is you smell so bad.
During birth or just during?
No, right after.
Like for the first three days after.
Because of all the hormones.
This is usually, I think, with a natural birth
because you're just,
I had a 24-hour labor and I'm just pushing
and all these hormones are being released
and it's just like your body's like literally sweating out
all these hormones for three days.
days and you wake up and like you're just soaking wet, the sheets are wet, the mattress is wet,
you shower.
And as you're showering with soap, like, you still smell.
Hmm.
Yeah.
My smell can get worse.
Just when you think it can't, it can't.
There's a lot, listen, there's a lot of things going on during this pregnancy.
I'm learning, I'm learning a lot.
What do you mean?
This is how ever, like this, I didn't know any of this either.
I didn't read a book on it.
Because they don't talk about it.
The main thing that she was really wanting to share is the.
after and the challenges that you're going to go through and the things that you're going to face that
nobody tells you about that yeah yeah like that you're going to smell okay but you also said that you
were at his birthday party 24 hours after yeah that was just stupidity you just didn't know though but
you didn't have anyone to tell you that I mean my midwife told me that I shouldn't go but I'm like
oh but why not but I literally was like shuffling into the restaurant I couldn't even walk so what are
some things that women should know after birth that you think are really important
to let everybody do everything for you. Don't feel that you have to do anything. Just lay there and rest and keep your legs shut. Like, don't do anything. Like, so you can just let everything start to heal. And breastfeeding, as painful as it can be, it really helps to bring your uterus back and help you get back to normal faster. And it's just to have patient.
with yourself. Like really just experience it and don't expect anything. Don't stress on any of it.
It all works out in the end. After six months, you'll start to feel like yourself again.
Do your boobs go back to normal? I don't know because I went from the first one and I breastfed him
for a long time. And then just as they were starting to go back to normal, I got pregnant again.
So that I don't know. I'll have to come back on and let you know. Okay. Great. So, so like,
just basically accept what's happening and don't try to fight it because I'm like such a type A.
So am I.
I'm going to try to be folding laundry while.
Don't.
Don't.
She's going to try to be a hero.
I know it.
Right.
And that's how I was with the first one.
It's like, I told him that nothing would change.
I was like, nothing's going to change.
I'm going to go to this black tie event.
I'm going to do this.
I'm going to do that.
No, just don't.
Don't.
That's how can the partner be supportive?
By reading that book.
This is all I got to do.
That's all you got to do.
That's all you got to do.
That's all you have to do is that book.
Just don't snore quite as loud.
I will do my...
You don't snore.
No, I feel like I'm going to be awake all the time here.
I'm somebody that a pin drops.
I'm awake.
Oh, well, then you're very lucky because he'll sleep through...
Anything.
Yeah, our house...
On fire, no problem.
Do you think that you've become more of a daredevil
since you had kids or less?
Nothing really changed except for this last injury that I had.
That kind of slowed me down.
Was that the shoulder?
Yeah.
Lauren, I got to share, Taylor, can you pull that thing up that clip?
He's going to pull it up.
I'm going to pull it.
I need her to see this thing.
I want you to get the magnitude.
When you're surfing like that, does it, what's going through your mind?
How many years ago is this?
Two, three?
Actually, four years ago, January.
What's going through my mind?
Just having fun.
First of all, Lauren.
This is the clip, right?
Yes.
This is it.
This is one of the wild.
Look, there he is.
See, Emily?
Wait.
That, go back.
That first hit broke my shoulder in 10 pieces.
And then.
But, well, we.
even more to me...
Do you see what we're looking at here, Lauren?
It's not like you surfing a little thing.
Even more, though, than surfing the wave to me is
what do you do when the wave
like takes you off the board and you go under?
You swim up into it?
So what happens here now? You go under you.
Did you break your shoulder on impact right away?
On impact.
Okay.
And so you break the shoulder, then you hit two more times.
Skipping like a rock there, you know, from a lake.
What happens after?
I'm really comfortable underwater.
And the lip landed on me, blew me up.
and I just got the normal pounding.
I've had so many wipeouts that
wipeouts are kind of
where I really have fun when I'm out of control.
I have no control of the situation.
That's when I might get the rush.
And while I'm underwater, I'm just relaxing
and taking it.
But then I realized something's not right.
You probably can't swim back up, huh?
I inflated, so I came up.
You don't really have to swim,
but I couldn't use my left arm.
And the first thing I thought to myself was,
oh my god I should have been doing my yoga from January 1st this is now January 7 and I didn't do
any yoga those seven days and why the yoga just gives you the flexibility yeah too stiff and when I
hit it was just the head broke in the nine pieces like an egg shell and the shaft broke off the
head and lodged itself in my peck oh and then I'm underwater do you see this happen no I didn't see
it happen this stuff doesn't freak you out no no it doesn't actually what it is it is
Is it changed now that, like, you have kids?
Do you ever think, okay, I got to be careful going out here?
Or is it just, you see it's calling you.
It didn't change until this year, about three months ago in Indonesia.
Why does it change?
Well, we were training for a month doing yoga every day, three hours a day.
Then I took a week to go surfing.
And on the third surf session, broke my foot.
But those two sessions before that, I hit my head.
on the reef right here. And when I hit my head, I almost knocked out. So I got to the board
and I'm spinning sideways, trying to hold on and seeing everything spin like I was about to pass
out. And all I could think of was my kids and Nicole and them being without a father. And then I got
to the beach and I was like, what camp am I in? I couldn't remember what camp I was in. And I was like,
my wife didn't come with me. I know she's not here, but where is she? I couldn't remember where
she was and luckily one of the doctor's assistants was right there he brought me to the doctor
and they started working on me right away put a couple stitches and he said i said the same
four questions over and over for a while an hour and that was when i started thinking man should
be mainly when i was on the board coming i was thinking man should i even be doing this anymore
this little teeny wave just took me out and almost i could have died right now in my mind i was
If nobody saw me, I would have died right there if I knocked out.
I found out later that somebody was watching me.
So they would have grabbed me and brought me back.
It would have been fine.
But if nobody was there, it could have been my last wave.
It sounds like when you're underwater, you said you're out of control.
And you just have to, instead of trying to fight, like fight out of it, you just have to let the wave control you.
And relax.
That sounds like motherhood, though.
That's how you just described it.
Yeah, just let it all go.
Are you ready?
I don't think she has much of a choice.
I think I'm just going to let the wave control me.
There you go.
I'm not going to try to control it.
Well, we were going to have an orgasmic birth and everything on the first one,
and then it just turned into gorillas and the myth gone wild.
What's an orgasmic birth?
Did you actually have an orgasm during birth?
Oh, yeah, you should Google it.
Yeah, tell me about that.
It's got to be fake.
She thought it was real.
I thought it was going to happen.
You watched the videos, and they look like there.
There's a book called Orgazmic Birth.
Remember recently when Carolyn Stamberer was on and I said that's a thing and you all made fun of me saying no, it didn't?
Well, she just said it's not a thing.
It's not a thing.
It's a thing.
She just didn't experience it.
We thought we were going to.
You're watching Pornhub and you probably Googled orgasmic birth and you found some weird dark hole that you went down.
It's got to be a dark hole because it doesn't exist.
I'm sorry.
Even with like a vibrator?
I bet Cedars hasn't seen.
somebody show up with a vibrator yet. I bet that way. I bet they'd be surprised. But they say they they say like
nipple stimulation and like making out and if you can tolerate like just like the whole making love thing
will really. So I got to do a little more than read that book.
No, that's if she's going to let you. No, I don't think you're going to want him to touch you.
So it's just like it just becomes like extremely animalistic. I'm sure. He's just like all that goes out
the window. Yeah, it really does. During a natural birth, are you having like oils and music and like all the things?
That's the best.
And massage.
She has two doulas.
Your doula just massages you the whole time.
Really?
And make sure she comes to her right after you give birth.
Why?
Because it feels good.
And so did you get the baby right away?
Did they put the baby right on you?
Right.
So it was at home.
So anything you wanted.
Yeah.
We're trying to figure out our birthing plan.
Which makes sure you have one and be real clear.
Yeah.
It sounds like someone was saying that like it's really important to keep the emboluclechlor on for three minutes.
all these little details.
It's until it stops pulsing.
Yeah.
And, you know, it's better to not give them a bath
to let the natural cream
just absorb into their body
because it's like a natural oil for them.
But one thing I did remember
that is a must,
if you're, you know, you have the natural birth
is you get big super maxi pads,
a bottle of witch hazel.
You put essential oils in there,
frankincense, geraniums,
and you squeeze it on the pads, fill them up, and stick them in the freezer.
Why? What does it do?
So after you put that pad on every time you go to the bathroom, it feels so good.
Instant relief because you're so sore.
And the witch hazel is good too.
So you do a huge maxy pad with witch hazel, geranium, and frankincense.
Yes.
And Melissa's really good too for that.
And Helicrissom.
Melissa.
Yeah, Melissa oil.
Okay, I've heard that.
I've heard Melissa's really good for pregnancy.
at women and post-birth.
Yes.
And you can put a drop of them, Melissa,
on the crown of their head
when they're born to, like, protect their aura.
Ooh.
Do you think that your kids will surf?
And if they do surf,
are you going to freak out?
They already do.
Both of them already do.
At 19 months?
She's skating, Ben, a skate part.
She's dropping in.
She's wilder than the five-year-old boy.
He dropped in at two and a half with Uncle Jeff Ho,
and now she is at one and a half.
Whoa.
Holy shit.
Yeah, she's wild.
So are you, like, if you saw your kids surf a wave like this,
What's your feeling of it?
Make sure they're ready for it.
I'd help them train.
How do you get ready for that?
Yeah, like, what is the problem?
When I think surf and I, like, you know, we grew up in San Diego, I see the people
maybe like five-foot wave.
I'm like, okay, cool, like, that's good.
This is an extreme jump from what I'm thinking about.
How do you start to prepare for something like this, both mentally and physically?
What do you need to go through?
Well, first you've got to want it.
And if you want it, then you can take the next step.
And there's so much good information out there.
There's so many breath hold courses.
The main thing is just being in the water.
all the time and getting a lot of underwater time when you get pounded, that really builds your
stamina. How long can you be out? Like, what's the long as you've been under? Surfing, not that long,
30 seconds at the most. Two waves ends up a minute and a half and so on. But in a pool about four
and a half minutes, that's not too long compared to other people. There's guys that can hold their
breath 10, 15 minutes now. Don't you have to do something with your nose to open up a chamber
of your lungs or something like that? Did I hear that wrong?
you, the only way to activate the fifth lobe of your lung is by breathing in your nose. Yes.
Okay. Do you know, you know Laird and Gabby? Yes. So I'm getting ready to produce Gabby's show here.
She's going to do, she's about to do a podcast. Awesome. And she, we were talking about this.
She was talking to me about when we were on, we had our meeting and she's like, listen,
when you start training, like start breathing through your nose more just because of that reason. That's
actually who told me it was Gabby, not, not Laird. She actually, the person who I wrote the book with
wrote her first two books. Okay. She's amazing. When she wrote, when she wrote,
Gabby wrote a second book with this with Karen, then I'm like, okay, Karen must be good.
That's when I entertained working with her and she ended up being amazing.
I want to go get in that pool with them.
I think that she said that's a good team building exercise.
Get my whole team here.
See who can cut it.
Get them in the pool with her and Laird.
What are some wellness things that you both do?
Like I know you said yoga, but are you doing cryotherapy?
It sounds like you do a lot of essential oils.
What are some things you do on maybe weekly, daily basis that are wellness related?
For Cigmatic every day for sure.
I just had a focus shot from them.
Yeah, I love their stuff.
And get off your acid alkaline.
Yeah, get off your acid greens to alkaline.
We do a lot of things, so it's hard to think right now.
When we're here, we always go to Khalil's, to Sun Life,
which is always the best, best ingredients of everything.
And he carries the Four Sigma.
He carries the best wellness products you can find.
So anything in Sun Life is going to be good for you.
There's some new sunscreens now that are reef safe and all organic,
like raw elements as a company we work with, and they are actually in sunlife and whole foods.
Resetting every morning, taking at least a minute, if not an hour, to meditate and reset.
And if you can do that two or three times throughout the day, you'll have a really meaningful day,
or I will at least.
That's what really helps me.
I'm pretty good at the first one.
I haven't mastered the second one or the third one throughout the day, and sometimes I struggle
with even doing it once a day.
But if I meditate three times a day, I'll be in heaven all day long.
We also do a lot of goal setting, which kind of goes back to your question about for all the
listeners out there who kind of become victims.
And it's just knowing that we all are limitless beings and we can create our own reality.
And I know one of the ways Garrett actually gave up on his passion of surfing when he was 30.
Yeah.
And he got.
Open to store.
Yeah. Why was that?
he just lost the drive?
He thought conditioning of society thinking you need to, you know, support your family
and have a real job.
Talk about that because I'm someone that really likes to go against the grain of what I'm
supposed to do.
In fact, I find it really like chains weighing me down.
So when did you realize like, wait, hold on, I'm actually not going to do what society
tells me to do and I'm going to beat to the tune of my own drum?
Well, I was driving to work past perfect waves.
pretty depressed.
And I had bought the book business plan for dummies to open the store.
First time I wrote a business plan.
So I'm thinking, hmm, maybe I'll try and give surfing another shot.
I'll write a little business plan to keep surfing.
And I just wrote my goal and wrote my map and followed it.
And boom, I won the Jaws contest, closed the store and kept surfing and still today.
And are you with him at this point?
No. Well, I think that so many people do that, right? They get told by their parents or their teachers or some of their peers or an adult that they say, well, you know, you can't make money to that. You can't live a good life. It's so like you can't. But I mean, I think now, especially now with the way that the internet works and all these, we're so connected. There's so many niche things that actually become huge businesses, but more people should hear that message and understand that they don't have to go to the beat of someone else's drum. It's just, we have such a difficult time doing that. Yeah, we all need to decondition ourselves from the condition.
of our parents, of our teachers, a society of what we see.
But maybe you should explain more of the roadmap because, yeah, you said you make a...
But I mean, when you started surfing, there probably wasn't a lot of money in surfing.
There is now, I mean, now there's a shitload, but...
Yeah, there was no money.
We just did it because we loved it.
I mean, I could pay the bills that I rented rooms to Japanese guys all winter
so that I could travel in the summer.
And we got paid 500 from this company and 500 from that company and almost made ends meet.
But then when toe surfing came in,
that became the new cool thing.
I was really lucky to be there when Laird and Derek and
Buzzy did it for the first time and instantly got
interested and started right away.
But the goal setting and the road mapping is really the key.
Everything you want to do with your...
Well, first of all, you've got to figure out what you're passionate about.
And sometimes you've got to go back to when you're three
before the world got a whole.
That's a hard thing to do for a lot of people.
Then, write that as your goal.
But in your roadmap, you know,
You train, eat properly, manifest, surround yourself with the right people.
But you'll also, it's really beneficial to put in there some selfless act, how to give back with your passion.
And when you get that whole recipe, you can't fail.
And you take that blueprint and stick it on your bathroom mirror, on your refrigerator, in your car,
and look at it every morning, afternoon, evening.
and everything that you do that day that is not on that map will take you further,
take longer for you to get to a goal.
But if you do everything, as long as it's realistic, it'll happen.
You just got to be really careful what you put in your goal because it will come true.
You know, that's so interesting because I listen to this guy, Ed Milet,
and he says exactly what you just said.
And he said, actually take the roadmap and use it as your screensaver on your phone
because you look at your phone up to 2,000 times a day, which is wild.
that's what I did.
I put my goals on my phone.
So I'm like subconsciously every day looking at my phone.
So maybe like, you know, the mirror is great.
You also add it to your phone, add it to your desktop, and you just constantly see it.
I love that.
That's genius.
I was just paper to pin, but I am on here two thousand times.
So I'm definitely going to put out my phone.
Yeah.
You know, I'm going to tattoo mine on Michael's ass.
Listen, if you're looking at my ass that many times.
You know, let's tattoo it on your body.
Is there a guide that you guys use for this roadmap that the listeners can go find?
Is there a book or a resource that they can go see a roadmap, like a blueprint that they can go and fill in?
That was going to be the name of the second book, Blueprint.
Or watermelon seeds on the ding-dong, but...
Write a book about the blueprint.
Yeah, that's what I really...
And I really want to actually make a journal planner for young kids because it's not taught in school.
And it's just the conditioning is getting deeper and deeper.
but if there was some easy book, something easy to follow a worksheet that just let them know that there's other options out there.
Anything's possible.
We actually just started a foundation and that's a big part of it.
We have these orphans in Nazari.
There's 15 of them that overlook the break.
They live in this compound that overlooks the waves.
And we take them on meaningful nature experiences, whether it's surfing if the waves are good or hiking or whatever, beach clean up.
But then we give them the journal and we're teaching them how to road.
That is awesome. That's what they should
fucking teach in school. Like
why don't they teach, why isn't there a roadmap class?
They just want us to be a number.
Yeah. They want us to plug into a hole, you know,
plug a peg in a wheel. So what are, you said that
you recommended Garrett some books to read. What are these books
that you read that you think have been really life changing?
For Garrett, I know the number one book would be
Deepak Chopra's The Seven Spiritual Laws Success.
But recently, Anna Forrest, Fear,
medicine.
Amazing.
It's life-changing.
We got to get her on the podcast.
She's amazing.
Let's manifest it.
Let's roadmap it.
If she's around, she'll come in.
Yeah.
And what does she talk about in her books?
She's so...
You think his book is crazy.
Hers, like, makes his look like...
Cakewalk.
Yeah.
And she developed Forest Yoga from her last name, but it's all about healing, trauma,
and really breaking the conditioning.
and the traumas that we've had from our childhoods through yoga and through release.
The book's really amazing, but she goes through a death meditation, a wiser self meditation,
a chakra processing of how you can, you know, find the answers to any question really could be
simple as what should I eat or what should I do with my life.
She has these meditations in her book to go through it.
There's so many good books out there.
Dan Millman, who did The Peaceful Warrior, the movie and the book,
He wrote a book, The Life You Were Born to Live, which is also incredible.
How do you guys parent and not listen to what society tells you?
Because it seems like you guys parent on your own terms.
Definitely.
Home school.
Home school.
Talk about that.
Why homeschool?
So I was a teacher for six years in a public school system in South Florida.
I know how it works.
So every five-year-old is not the same.
They're not going to learn the same things.
They're not going to be interested in the same thing.
But all of a sudden, we just group.
people like, oh, you're the same age. So let's just put you in a room together with a bunch of other
people the same age and tell you you should all be the same. So I think it's much better for our
children to be around younger kids, to be around older kids, to be around kids their same age,
around adults, to travel, to see new things so they can figure out what they even like and how
best do they learn and then have somebody who's actually teaching them and guiding them in a way
that they learn best because not everybody learns the same. And in school, they want everybody to
learn the same and it's just not happening but what about i'll play div as advocate a little bit here what about
you're a teacher and i'm sure you're amazing but for for people that here's so amazing that we're in
florida driving in the car and all these kids are in the car next was yelling hey hey and i'm just like
oh yeah yeah he's like oh look look look nicoe they had that you're hot till they're like mrs am mrs
em i'm like oh and this was like years later for the parents that if maybe the
Some parents aren't equipped to teach you.
So what would you suggest for an option for them?
Read a lot of books about conscious parenting and...
We got that book, Michael.
Conscious parenting.
People like that book.
Yes, it's great book.
Okay.
And, you know, just think about what you want your kid to know and just make sure you're infusing
that at home.
Like maybe it is the journaling and the goal setting, like doing it as a family since it's not
happening at school.
Yeah, because I get it.
Not everybody can homeschool their kid, but there's things you can do.
at home to let them know that not everything they're learning at school is the way the world works.
Yeah, I think that's the message because, you know, like I was a terrible student. I just felt
I never fit in in school. I felt like I didn't relate to the lessons. There's plenty of kids
that excel and they just crush it in school. But for those that don't, you just feel lost.
Absolutely. And that's, I think that's where it comes down to parenting and the supplemental
things you do at home and just being the example, you know, what do you guys do that makes it
where you don't follow society and do what you're supposed to do and teaching them,
it's okay to be different.
Have you ever heard of the human design?
No, what's that?
So it's a system-based stuff, the E-Ching, the Kabbala tree of life, astrology,
but it basically creates a chart of how you are the moment you were born,
and it's basically your soul's contract of what you come here to do,
and it's your energy type.
And it talks a lot about how we're conditioned.
to not live our energy type, which causes resistance with the universe.
Like the universe can't give us what we want because we're going against it.
So, for example, Garrett's a generator.
He is meant to do what lights him up and it's his initial response.
So like, do you want pizza or do you want ice cream?
It's like, which one do you want instead of saying, oh, what do you want?
And then him saying something and then not wanting it, but feeling he has to do it.
And just removing that conditioning.
that we have to do, you know, we have to give that person a hug because that's the only way
we're going to get love. And that's not true. So, but it's really interesting to apply that to
parenting and how you raise your kid based on their energy type. I want to know my energy type.
I can get it for you. How do you know? Would you take a quiz? Well, it's based on your birth date,
but your exact birth time. But then it creates a chart. And I just went to the training to be
able to read the charts and it's super interesting and I'm really excited to apply it to my parenting because
it makes so much sense like our five-year-old son so he's a generator and he's only meant to do what
really lights him up and he's always like I don't want to do that I don't want to do that but I think
I have to make him do it because that's the right thing but he actually knows exactly what his soul
wants to do and I just need to support that so what are the other types of energy so there's generators
manifest generators, manifesters, projectors, and then reflectors.
There's very few reflectors in the world.
I think it's less than 1% of the population is a reflector.
So they are a non-energy being, so they simply reflect the energy that's around them
and the collective energy of the world right now.
And then what are the other four?
Well, I guess you gave one.
I guess the other three.
We're putting it on the spot here, but it's a week.
No, that's okay.
I'm going to do my best.
Okay.
The generator.
are the people that are meant to like sparkle up and be so radiant that their energy is just so
captivating that it captivates all of us and we would just want to say oh yes generator what is it
you want to do and make that happen and their energy literally like lights all of us up to
want to create and do what we're meant to be doing manifesters generators have to wait
for an invitation from the universe so the universe literally like gives them things for them
like do you want sparkling water or do you want regular water and the generator picks based on what the universe gives them
Manifestors don't have to wait for an invitation from the universe
They literally just have ideas just come to them
Generators universe gives them ideas
Manifesters they just are manifesting these ideas and they're meant to just throw these ideas out and then the generators and the other energy types make these things happen
And then manifesting generators are a combination of those two energies, which is interesting.
So manifesters a lot of times will, their friends will say, oh, do you want to go to the movies next week?
And the manifesters like, yes.
But then when it comes, they're like, no, I don't want to go to the movies anymore.
But then they feel obligated because of their conditioning when really they just need to learn how to set clear boundaries and say, yeah, that sounds really great.
If I can make it, I'll be there.
Instead of saying, I'll be there and making commitments they can't keep.
And then projectors.
So I'm a projector.
I'm a non-energy being, which means I take on the energy of everyone around me to help them achieve.
And we're more of like the guides who kind of know what people need and can help them achieve their goals.
So that's why you two are solid, you're a solid match.
Yes, he got really lucky.
He didn't even realize he was speaking of projector.
Yeah.
He generated a projector.
It goes much deeper though.
It does go much deeper.
It was kind of confusing the way she was explaining it.
Yeah, I'm sorry.
I understood.
We put you on the spot there and it was like, you know, we didn't mean to make you recite the whole.
Well, this room is like so hot.
I don't know what's going on here.
I purposely keep it hot in here because I found when you keep it cold, people are, they're on point.
And then I like to get people comfortable.
So I get you guys in the hot seat.
Literally the hot seat.
I have two selfish questions for you guys.
So when you originally set out and you were doing your blueprint and your goal,
was it breaking world records in there?
or did that start to manifest itself as you started to, you know,
get better and better and better in your career?
And then the second part, which is,
I've never had the chance to ask a world record holder this question.
What happens, and I'm not saying it's going to,
if somebody tries to beat your record or does,
like, what is it going to do to you mentally?
You're going to want to get back out there?
I'll answer the second one first.
Somebody did beat the record.
They did.
When?
They got a one of, actually like one of my students.
Okay.
And in Nazaree, eight years later, he broke it two years ago.
I was happy for him.
He had a really bad experience two or three years prior, almost died and had post-traumatic stress syndrome and was not going to go surf Nazare again.
And somehow he got to courage and came back and actually got the biggest wave of his life.
So I was really happy for him, really proud of him.
And I just got so lucky that nobody had ever surfed the big waves there.
Nobody knew that the big waves were rideable.
And I got so blessed to be the guy who discovered that the big waves were ridable there.
So no matter what happens there, I'm really happy and proud.
And nobody would be there if it wasn't for Nicole answering an email that we got sent a while before.
I had a five-year email chain with this guy inviting me.
And I wasn't going to go.
I wanted to, but it just wasn't going anywhere.
And then Nicole saw the email chain being the projector.
that she is, organized it, and we got there
in one month. So this guy was just like, hey, you've got to come
surf this. You've got to come check this out. And you're just like
ignoring, ignoring, ignoring. Not ignoring, but it was
a bodyboarder and a surfer, and it was
going back and forth for five years.
Until she saw the email in one month,
we were there after she saw it. That's what kind of
projector she is. Was the goal to break world records?
It was just one of these things where it was like, these waves
exist and I'm going to surf them. I'd been looking for
the 100 foot wave for about 10 years.
And we thought it was out at
Cortez Banks.
It's very elusive this 100 foot wave.
nowhere to be found. And when we
wrote, we got to Nazare the first day, we walked up on the cliff and I
saw waves that I know were 100 feet. The conditions weren't any good, but
it was just like the Holy Grail. It was like this big, ta-da, moment.
And there was actually probably a hundred foot wave ridden there
about two years ago by Hugo Val, maybe even 120 feet. It was so dark and so
late in the afternoon that you couldn't really see him. But where the wave
broke and how big it was, it was probably
at least 100 feet.
So I know there are 100 foot waves there and someday somebody will surf one.
And I had been focusing on the 100 foot wave and training all day and just dreaming about it
and manifesting it and seeing it.
And in 2012, I got this wave that didn't really break.
The media got a hold.
It looks like it's 100 feet.
And the media got a hold of it and said it was a, Garrett claimed to surf a hundred foot wave.
I'm like, well, I didn't say anything, and this wave is not 100 feet.
All of a sudden, wherever I go and pretty much the whole world,
hey, you're the guy who rode the 100 foot wave.
I'm just like, well, the wave wasn't really 100 feet, but okay, whatever.
So I released it.
This very rigidly attached to riding this 100 foot wave.
I pretty much released it.
The world thinks I rode it.
The desire is still there, but only if I'm feeling perfect and it's a perfect day
and everything feels right.
I'll go out there and the wave comes all right.
it, but I don't have to. There's not like some desire to like protect a certain number.
It's, it's, it's, it's, it's, it's, it's, it's, it's, it's, it's, it's, it's, it's, it's, I
serve for the love of it. I didn't, honestly, I didn't even want to enter the 78 foot wave
into the XXL. I didn't want to enter it. But the country, the town, my sponsors,
Nicole, they all wanted to enter it. So we entered it and it won. Now for the most
important question. What's the gnarliest shark you've ever seen? Oh, I love sharks. Oh.
come to our house
we have sharks right in front
you can either cage
dive with the cage
or cageless
hold on I got
I got one thing to say
about this house
because Tara's told me
I forgot
Oh yeah Tara
Terro's come to the house
Khalil's coming next week
I think
You have a big house
But you don't go in the big house
What's the story there
Is that what they said?
Is that what they said?
There's amazing big house
That sounds like me
I like smaller houses
We live in a tiny house
What's the story with that?
What the tiny house
is away from everybody
The big house is up front row center with everybody around.
How they could get to you.
There's not a lot of people, but in our tiny house,
we're tucked away in the corner, the back corner of the property.
It's quiet.
And we have a perfect little spot.
Not fenced in, but we have the perfect wall of plants and the skate ramp,
and we have a little school.
It's just like Disneyland for our kids.
And there's sharks?
Well, about a mile out.
You manifested the sharks, Lauren.
Wait, is this like great white sharks?
No, no.
There was one.
A couple years ago, the biggest one ever recorded.
Yes, but it was a tagged Great White.
They were following it.
They knew it was so far.
It wasn't.
They knew it was.
What do you do if you're surfing in the ocean and you see a shark?
That doesn't happen.
Never?
What happened to you what?
What do you do?
Are you supposed to get on your surfboard?
What's the move?
Fast quickly and get out.
What's up you don't have your period?
Oh my God.
So just don't pee, they can smell pee stronger than...
Yeah, urine's supposed to be stronger than blood.
That makes sense.
That makes sense.
Knowing me, I'd be like, oh, oh my God.
God, I'm so nervous there to be.
Yeah, exactly.
Yeah, you could thank Tara for that message because he was like,
ask him about the, asking why they're not in the big house.
That's funny.
I talk about moving up there all the time, but I kind of don't want to share it with the kids.
I'm like, once the kids are older, then we'll move up to the main house.
All right, well, I'm glad we got to do this.
Yeah, I'm glad we got to do this.
What would you leave our audience with a book, a resource, a podcast that would provide value
to their life, both of you.
Could be anything.
It could be a parenting book, could be surfing book, give us a resource.
A podcast do you guys like?
I would make sure you do a minute meditation every morning, a minimum of a minute.
And if you go longer, that's great, but a minute is awesome.
Everybody can do a minute.
And just get a mantra that you can tell yourself for a minute of how you want to be
and how you want to feel all day long and how you want to make people feel.
And put that mantra into effect and you'll be the most loved person.
I don't know if it's a book or a podcast or anything like that, but finding somebody that inspires them and that they can look up to and ask for advice or even just watch and see what the books that they recommend are or maybe they've written a book.
But finding somebody that they can connect to and look up to and want to be like, you could call it an expand or somebody that pushes you to be better than you are.
You guys are great. Your kids are lucky to have you both.
What's your Instagram handle? Pimp yourself out. Tell us about your books.
Instagram is McNamara underscore S, which is MCNA, M-M-A-R-A-U-S.
And Nicole?
Mine is Mama Unearthed, M-A-M-M-A, and then unearthed.
And where can we find your book?
Everywhere.
Amazon.
Amazon.
Yeah.
Thank you guys for coming on.
Hound of the sea.
Hound of the sea.
Not watermelon seeds of my dingo.
Not water on the sea.
Oh, we did just start making episodes, YouTube episodes with family and surfing.
Taylor, make sure we link all that out.
That's worth checking out.
And you guys are going to be on one of them.
Thank you guys for coming on.
Thank you.
Guys, wait, don't go.
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As always, thank you so much for listening,
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