The Personal Finance Podcast - My Retirement Plan Charges 1.38% Is It Robbing Me of My Future? (Money Q&A)
Episode Date: June 2, 2025In this episode of the Personal Finance Podcast, we are going to do a Money Q&A about my retirement plan charges 1.38%. Is it robbing me of my future? Watch this episode on Youtube ... Today we are going to answer these questions! Question 1: What should my next steps be after paying off a personal loan—emergency fund, car savings, or student loans? Question 2: What’s the best investment or savings account to open for my 5-year-old to start learning about money? Question 3: Is it worth contributing to a Roth 457(b) with a 1.385% fee, or should I focus on low-cost accounts? Question 4: I’m in the military maxing out TSP and Roth IRA—what else can I do to retire early? And how can my parents retire with $150K at age 55? Question 5: I’m new to investing with $30K in cash—should I just dump it into an index fund, or do something more? Question 6: We’re 48 and 49, saving aggressively with no debt—how do we ensure we hit our $1.5M retirement goal by age 55? Question 7: We rolled over $35K into an IRA, have $125K in a 401(k), and big home equity—how do we build wealth and retire early in California? How Andrew Can Help You: Listen to The Business Show here. Don't let another year pass by without making significant strides toward your dreams. "Master Your Money Goals" is your pathway to a future where your aspirations are not just wishes but realities. Enroll now and make this year count! Join The Master Money Newsletter where you will become smarter with your money in 5 minutes or less per week Here! Learn to invest by joining Index Fund Pro! This is Andrew’s course teaching you how to invest! Watch The Master Money Youtube Channel! , Ask Andrew a question on Instagram or TikTok. Learn how to get out of Debt by joining our Free Course Leave Feedback or Episode Requests here. Car buying Calculator here Thanks to Our Amazing Sponsors for supporting The Personal Finance Podcast. Shopify: Shopify makes it so easy to sell. Sign up for a one-dollar-per-month trial period at shopify.com/pfp Chime: Start your credit journey with Chime. Sign-up takes only two minutes and doesn’t affect your credit score. Get started at chime.com/ Thanks to Fundrise for Sponsoring the show! Invest in real estate going to fundrise.com/pfp Thanks to Policy Genius for Sponsoring the show! Go to policygenius.com to get your free life insurance quote. Indeed: Start hiring NOW with a SEVENTY-FIVE DOLLAR SPONSORED JOB CREDIT to upgrade your job post at Indeed.com/personalfinance Shop Data Plans and Save Big at mintmobile.com/pfp Go to https://joindeleteme.com/PFP20/ for 20% off! Links Mentioned in This Episode: How to Pay No Taxes in Early Retirement, Debunking the Mortgage Fee Fiasco, and More! With Katie Gatti (From Money With Katie!) 10 Powerful Portfolio Strategies (And Which One is Right for You!) - Part 1 10 Powerful Portfolio Strategies (And Which One is Right for You!) - Part 2 The 1-3-6 Method For Building & Managing Your Emergency Fund Connect With Andrew on Social Media: Instagram TikTok Twitter Master Money Website Master Money Youtube Channel Free Guides: The Stairway to Wealth: The Order of Operations for your Money How to Negotiate Your Salary The 75 Day Money Challenge Get out Of Debt Fast Take the Money Personality Quiz Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
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On this episode of the Personal Finance Podcast, my retirement plan charges 1.38%. Is it robbing me of my future?
What's up, everybody, and welcome to the personal finance podcast. I'm your host, Andrew founder of
MasterMoney.com. And today on the Personal Finance Podcast, we're going to be diving into your questions
on this episode of Money Q&A. If you want to submit your question, make sure you join the Master Money
newsletter by going to mastermoney.com slash newsletter. And there you can send in your question
and you could have it answered on the show just like these ones. And don't forget to follow us on
Spotify, Apple Podcast, YouTube or whatever podcast player, you love listening to this podcast on.
And if you want to how about the show, consider leaving a five star rating and review on Apple
podcast, Spotify or your favorite podcast player. Now today, we're going to be diving into seven
of your questions on this money Q&A. And a couple of these questions are also two-part questions.
The first one is, what should my next steps be after paying off a personal loan?
Emergency Fund, car savings, or student loans? Secondly, is what's the best investment or savings
account to open for my five-year-old to start learning about money? I love this question.
We'll probably do an entire episode in the future on that as well. Is it worth contributing
to a Roth 457B with a 1.385% fee? Or should I focus?
on low-cost accounts. Question four is I'm in the military, maxing out my TSP and Roth IRA. What else can I do to
retire early and how can my parents retire with $150,000 at age 55? Question five is I am new to
investing with $30,000 in cash. Should I just dump it into an index fund or do I do something more?
Question six is we are 48 and 49, saving aggressively with no debt. How do I ensure I hit my $1.5 million
retirement goal by age 55? And question seven, we rolled over $35,000 into an IRA, have $125,000 in a 401,
in big home equity. How do we build wealth and retire early in California? So these are all fantastic
questions. Really excited to jump into this. We have an action-packed episode as you can see. So let's get
into it. All right. The first question is, hello, Andrew. Thank you so much for your podcast. I've
been listening since last year. I am single without kids happily and about to be 45. We have almost
nothing in common, but I feel you deliver your message in a way that everyone can learn and feel included.
That's absolutely the goal with what we're trying to do. I have made great strides in the
right direction financially, and it's all thanks to part to you. Well, thank you, and it's really just
you taking the action steps here. So that's absolutely amazing. And we'll talk about it here in a second.
I have a question about my next steps. I have $5,000 in a high yield savings account, and I am in the
process of paying off $15,000 in a personal loan that I used to consolidate my credit cards and get a
lower interest rate. It will be paid off by the end of this year. Oh, congratulations. My next high
interest debt is a $100,000 student loan. I know it's massive, and I took the max available for
nurse practitioner school to get my doctorate. I am on an income-driven repayment plan, and it is on pause
due to the save plan being challenged in the courts. The projected date is to start repayment in
October 2006. If repayment starts earlier, it will remain around $300 payment in October of 2006.
So instead of paying off this loan right away, I want to move my next step and save for three months
of emergency money and start saving for a down payment on my car. It is a lease that will expire in
2007. What are your thoughts? I work full-time as a nurse practitioner, and I am in the middle of
process of starting up a telehealth business as a side hustle in a few months or so, but money is
tight right now. So I should have some more options soon. All right, so Greta, thank you so much
for this question. This is absolutely amazing. And here's how I would kind of think about this for
sure is. Number one is I would finish off paying off that personal loan first. If the interest rate is
high and you're on track to finish by the end of year, that is absolutely amazing. Congratulations
on taking the action step for doing that because those credit corps,
we're robbing you of your financial future. So it is absolutely amazing that you're taking
advantage of that. Secondly, is if you already have the $5,000 in savings, this is something that I
think that if you can keep your monthly expenses around that, you know, 3,000 range or depending
on where your monthly expenses are, if you can aim for another $9,000 more, we want to try to
at least get to that three months of expenses saved up. And then ultimately, we want to have
six months of expenses saved up long term. Since your lease ends in late 2007, you definitely have
to do something with the car, with the vehicle, and I would definitely start to create a savings
bucket to start saving for that down payment. I think that's really wise for you to be able to do that
so that you can start to put together that 20% down of whatever it is. Now, if you need,
you know, a used car, maybe it's an older car over the next couple of years until you get through
it. Just follow some of our rules, but making sure that you can drive an older used car over the
course of 10 years is really, really important. And you can find them now. You can find really
reliable cars for a good price. And so maybe you downgrade your car until that debt gets paid off
once that debt gets paid off. And over the time, then you can kind of look and upgrade your car
over that time frame. Now, for the student loans, because you're on this specific plan and it's paused
until 2026, if you focus on those other priorities right now, then you can have that baseline in place
to be able to take care of that once it comes back into play. Because obviously, if it's a high
interest student loan debt, we have to look at the interest rate. If it is truly high interest,
definitely want to make sure that we are prioritizing that and planning ahead for that.
One other thing that I know a lot of people do, which I like this idea, is they will start
to put the payments into savings while it is paused, and they will start to build up this
savings bucket. And then once it becomes unpaused, and they take all those dollars and they just
put it towards us that they can start to pay that money down. I love that option for you,
because you have cash on hand. It just gives you some additional cash on hand while it is paused.
And then during that time frame, just having the discipline to make sure that you make a big lump sum
payment when it starts, that's going to help you really start to get ahead on some of these
payments over time. So you can almost think of it as, hey, I got to make this payment now so that your
financial life doesn't change and you get used to making those payments. But I would, you know,
you said it was $300 a month. I would take $300 a month and start putting it away in a savings
bucket to start getting used to making those payments. Now on your future side business income
to supercharge your savings, I think that is great in keeping your expenses low at first is fantastic.
It looks like it's right in the field of where you work. It's in the health sector. And so that
going to be something that probably comes naturally to you and really, really cool stuff for that.
You can start to consider investing once you get that emergency fund built up to that three-month range
at least. So you're doing a really great job managing on your current income. And I think it is really,
really powerful kind of seeing what you're doing there. You're taking the right steps moving forward
and just continuing that and staying consistent is the big, big key. I would automate my payments
to start to get this debt paid off. So I'd automate those payments for sure. And I know you're kind of,
you said money is somewhat tight right now. And so we just want to make sure that we,
or managing our money correctly. When money is tight, the focus, and you are focusing on
increasing your income, which is one of the biggest focuses. The second one is obviously to make
sure that we are actually tracking our spending. The tighter your money situation is, the more
you need to be tracking your spending overall, and that's going to really, really help you in a long
run. So again, congratulations on taking these steps and update us in the next couple of months.
Once you get that paid off, we want to celebrate with you when you get that debt paid off.
I think that's really, really cool stuff there.
The next question is my question for.
revolves around my kids and saving money. When I was growing up, any money that I saved for college
went into a high-yield savings account. And in my teenage years, when I became interested in investing
it in the market, my dad set up a joint taxable brokerage account of Fidelity with himself as the
custodian. Fast forward around 10 years. Now, I've got a few kids in my own, and my oldest is at the
point where we will start introducing an allowance and having him save money. He is five years old.
After he's accumulated some savings in cash, I'd love to open a savings or investment account for him
to make periodic deposits of his savings so he can understand and get interested in investing.
What would you recommend as the type of account for him to open? I would want any of his savings
money to be accessible to him where he graduates high school and goes to college. So roughly
13 years into the future. Options. And I understand the average historic yields of all these
accounts and investments. High yield savings count is number one. Joint taxable brokerage account
where I would be the custodian is two. And Roth IRA is number three. I know you've talked
about Roth IRAs for kids before, but I'm leaning against this one because I would want all of his
money to be accessible to him when he graduates, not just the contribution. So this is really,
really good stuff here and a fantastic question. So here's the way I would kind of think about this
is you have a bunch of options here. You have a non-custodial brokerage account, but that would
mean that you would control the entire thing. Probably not exactly what you're looking for,
but we talk about that a lot if you are someone who wants to kind of hold the account longer term
than when they become of age. But you have a couple of options here. So you have a
custodial brokerage account, which is you can do like a UGMA or a UTMA. And the reason why those are
good is if you want the money to go to them when they become of age, those are good accounts to
consider. Why? Because they have tax-efficient growth when you put dollars into there. They have
total flexibility on when and how the funds are used. And there's no penalties like something
with a Roth IRA, for example. It can help you teach investing early with real-world examples of
compounding growth. And you can shift to the child's control. And it's typically at age 18 or 21.
depending on the state that you live in is when that would shift to your child's control.
So secondarily is we have the custodial Roth IRA, but there's a couple of things to kind of consider
there.
One, they have to have earned income.
So if you want to start matching it for any reason, then the custodial Roth IRA is more
difficult because they have to have enough earned income to be able to contribute that amount
to the custodial Roth IRA.
So say, for example, your son earns $100 a year because he's five.
If he earns $100 every single year, you can only put $100 into that custodial Roth IRA.
You can't put more.
You can't put $700 if you want to for a birthday or whatever else.
You have to put in the amount that they earn that year.
And so probably around what I would consider in that situation,
if you want all of his dollars to go to him when he turns 18 or 21,
is to make sure that you use a UGMA or a UTMA is probably the way that I would look at that,
which is a custodial brokerage.
And there's a lot of benefits to that.
So, like, one is unearned income.
Under $1,300 is tax-free.
The next $1,300 is taxed at the child's tax rate,
which is usually 10% or lower. And above that, it's taxed at your rate due to the kitty tax.
So the kitty tax is another thing to kind of think through as you go through this.
But if you're investing in low turnover, you know, index funds or ETFs long term,
then you can minimize some of those dividends and those capital gains and therefore reduce that tax
liability overall. And now filing a return isn't required unless uneruned income exceeds over that
$1,300 per year. And so really, a lot of great things that can happen if you want those dollars.
So the reason why I don't put my kids in there is I don't know exactly when I'm going to give my kids the money.
I actually have my own brokerage account in my name that I'm going to hand to them.
They are the beneficiaries in those taxable brokerage accounts.
And that's only because I do not want to give them those dollars right at the age of 18 if I don't have to or right at the age of 21 if I don't have to.
So instead, I put it in the taxable to give them that flexibility.
And then they'll have a Roth where they can get that money later on down in line.
But if you want him to have his money right when he turns age 18, then those UT and
or UGMAs are really, really good options.
But you can also do the regular taxable.
And some of the cons with the regular tax will is like some of the taxes will fall down to you.
Personally, while you're building wealth for them, a lot of different things like that.
But overall, I think the custodial is a great, great option.
It's so cool that you are looking to, you know, start helping your five-year-old invest.
Now, one thing I love to do is kind of identify some of the companies with just a small percentage
of the portfolio.
You can do the rest of it however you want.
But I always love to, you know, identify companies that they are interested.
in. So say, for example, your kid loves Disney. You can invest in Disney and show them,
hey, you own a piece of this company now, or you can invest in Mattel, where they can
own the company that makes the toys they like, or you can invest in. Anything that they're interested
in, there are ways that you can kind of invest in companies to make them more interested in investing.
So very, very cool stuff there and really, really would love to hear kind of what you end up doing.
And congratulations again on teaching your kids about money. That is absolutely amazing.
I'm a municipal employee that contributes to a Roth 457B account through nationwide.
The account has an annualized fee ratio of 1.385%.
Woo boy, is it worth it to continue to contribute to this account if I am not maxing out the total
contribution limit $22,000?
And could I transfer the balance to Vanguard, low fee index fund, and save on the high fees
over the course of 20 to 30 years?
So, awesome question, because for most people out there, if you have a 1.385% expense
ratio, you got to raise your eyebrows a little bit. That is a very high expense ratio,
especially for having a specific account. And this is actually a super common situation for municipal
employees and other public sector workers. I've seen this happen a lot more where they have much
higher fees in their accounts than maybe someone with a traditional 401k at a private company or a
publicly traded company. Usually the municipal sector does have more fees. And that is honestly just
discouraging in some ways. But overall, I'm going to tell you kind of how I would think about this.
or the ways that I would consider handling this.
So should you contribute to your Roth 457B, even with that fee?
Yes, but only up to a point.
And here is why.
Why it's worth still considering is that your 457B plans have no penalty for early withdrawals.
So once you leave your employer, even before the age of 59.5,
a big advantage over the 401K or the 403B or the Roth IRA is that they do have no penalty for early withdrawals.
It is still taxed advantage growth.
So your money still grows tax-free inside the Roth,
even with the fees. And if you're not maxing out other retirement accounts like the Roth IRA or low cost 401K,
this can still be a solid way to shelter money from taxes based on your tax situation. But that 1.385% fee is really,
really high. And over the course of 30 years, it can be hundreds of thousands of dollars.
For comparison, obviously, a typical index fund is 0.03% to 0.10%. So if you're not maxing out other low fee retirement accounts,
I would consider this order of operations is I would think through, hey, what about my Roth IRA
through Vanguard or Fidelity? You can go that route first and do something like $7,000 in a Roth IRA.
Again, this is not financial advice. This is just what I would consider is looking at the Roth IRA
at Vanguard or Fidelity and kind of see, is that something you want to do? Because you could put $7,000 in there.
And then you could contribute enough to your 457B to take advantage of the tax sheltering up to your
comfort level. And then as a secondary option,
have the Roth IRA available to you. Now, you could also look in your 457B. Is it the actual plan that
has that expense ratio or is it what you are invested in? Are there lower cost investments that you
could switch to? If that is an option, look at the lower cost investments, kind of analyze those
and see if that's something that is a better option for you overall. And if they do have those lower
cost options, I would try to switch providers if you could. And then for any extra money outside of
that, I would consider the taxable brokerage account outside of some of these accounts that we
just discussed here. Now, can you transfer your?
your 457 balance to Vanguard now, not unless you leave your job, unfortunately, because they are
locked while you are employed, and transfers, which are rollovers, are available after separation
from service or retirement. So if you plan on being in that job for 30 years, I would probably
prioritize the Roth or something with a lower cost first and then get my dollars back into there
once time goes on. And then once you leave your job, you can roll it into a Roth IRA or a
traditional IRA, depending on where it's a Roth or pre-tax 457B. But if it's a Roth 457 and you roll it
into a Roth IRA, it does continue to grow tax-free. But the five-year Roth IRA clock starts over for
the pro rata rule unless you already have a Roth IRA open. And so making sure that you just have
those rules in place is really, really important. But right now, as you're employed,
you can't roll it over until you actually separate from wherever you're working. So I hope that's
super helpful. If you have any other questions on that, please let me know. But
amazing job, even investing your dollars in here. And it is something that you could definitely
consider over time. If you don't plan on being there for 30 years and maybe I would still consider
invest in my dollars in there, if there's some good benefits there. And if there's a match,
I would definitely take advantage of that match too. So those are definite reasons to get more dollars
into there. So hope that helps. And let me know if you have any other questions.
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The question is, good evening, sir.
I've enjoyed your podcast, and I'm currently in the military,
and I'm maxing out my TSP and Roth IRA
and plan to do so for the next four years at least.
Do you advise any other actions for me to retire early?
Secondly, my folks are both 55 years old
and have $150,000 save for retirement
and both wanting to retire at age 70.
What advice would you have for them that I can pass on?
So these are two great questions.
And I'm going to tell you, it's not advice, but I'm going to tell you how I would consider both of these situations.
So if you are in the military, first of all, thank you so much for your service.
We truly, truly appreciate you and cannot thank you enough for that.
And as we dive into this, I'm just going to tell you kind of how I would think about that.
We actually have, I have really good friends of the show who are going to come on.
They're from Military Money Manual, and they host a show all about the military.
And we want to have them on for a special military episode that we're working on.
So working on schedules for that one, but really excited to have them on too.
But since you're maxing out both TSP and the Roth IRA, here are a few strategic steps that you can think through to fast track early retirement.
One is you can use the Roth TSP while in active duty.
And so your military pay is likely lower taxed.
So using Roth contributions now means you'll lock in those tax-free growth forever.
So look at your tax rate now.
If you think your tax rate's going to be lower now while you're in the military, you can lock in some of those tax-free growth.
and if you switch careers later and jump tax brackets, having the tax-free money will be golden
in the long run. So that's one consideration that I would think through. Since you can't touch
most retirement accounts penalty-free until age 59 and a half, unless you use Rule 72T or a Roth IRA
ladder, then I would use a taxable account because that can give you some flexibility when it
comes to early retirement. And specifically, if you want to retire early, I love taxable accounts.
I think they are fantastic. Even if you have those taxable rates, it's still significantly
lower than getting your income taxed. And so I think it's really, really powerful. And you can invest in,
you know, broad-based index funds, ETFs, those types of things. Three is I would make sure I have that
emergency fund in place. So I would use the one-three-six method. So the first month is just the mini
buffer, one month of your expenses, then building it up to three months and then building it up
ultimately to six months is going to be really, really important. Also, using the Roth IRA
calculator, the backdoor calculator, because you can always withdraw contributions, just not
your earnings from a Roth IRA, tax-free at any given.
time, and it's a great built-in early retirement bridge. I love talking through that. In fact,
we had Katie Gaddi on from Money with Katie probably a year and a half ago now, but it's a great
episode to hear how you can actually reduce that taxable rate down even more. If you want to
really dig in the weeds, we dig in the weeds on that episode. And then five, I would consider
tracking my annual expenses, making sure that I understand how much I'm spending so that I can
use the 25x rule to retire early. Really important to understand the 4% rule in the 25x rule when it comes
to early retirement. And you have those steps there. I think it can help you.
So if you get to $1.25 million, for example, you can spend $50,000 per year. If you want to spend $80,000 per year, you need $2 million. If you want to spend $120,000 per year, you need $3 million. All those different numbers matter when it comes to making sure you're on track to retire early. But you are doing a great job thus far. And I think utilizing some of these accounts to make sure that you're growing them so you have additional flexibility is the name of the game. Also, if you have a high deductible health plan, using an HSA or something else along those lines can be a great flexibility option as well. So that is perfect.
Now, for your parents, they are age 55 and they have $150,000 save with 15 years to go.
So first, I would maximize catch-up contribution.
So because they're age 55, they can put extra dollars into things like their 401Ks and their IRAs, for example.
So in their 401Ks, they can get up to $30,000 in there for the Roth IRA.
They can get up to $8,000 in there at the time recording this.
And so those are fantastic if you're over the age of 50.
You can get a lot more money in these retirement accounts than most people who are under the age of 50.
So big, big difference there. And if they can afford to say $15,000 to $25,000 a year total,
they can reach $600 to $8,000 by $70, depending on returns, obviously. But you can make a dent
in your retirement range if you can do that. It depends on how much they want to live on every single
year. They want to live on, you know, more than that, then they may have to get more aggressive,
but it just depends on how much money they want to live on. And then if they're going to continue
working until age 70, then delaying Social Security will be a good option for them because they're
I need to anyway. So delaying Social Security until age 70 will give them a higher dollar amount,
I think, and help increase that amount about 8% per year if they delay it till age 70. And it locks in the
maximum monthly benefit if they go that route. Now, if one of them wants to retire early, then they want to,
you know, I'm pretty pro taking your Social Security earlier at times, especially if you're
disciplined enough to take those dollars and invest them or do something else. But that's a whole other
episode if we want to think through that. But if they are going to stay till 70, delaying it,
if they're going to continue working, can be helpful. And they can reduce how much they need
to save based on how much they expect to get with Social Security.
So if they go to SSA.gov, I would figure out what that number is, how much they anticipate
to have in Social Security, and they do a little math, they'll ask you, hey, how long are you
going to work, you say H-70, and then they could go into there at SSA.gov, and they can figure
out how much their Social Security might be, and then they can reduce that monthly amount by
how much they want to live on, and that'll help them kind of run these numbers.
Number four is I would stay invested for growth. They still have 15 years left. That's a long
time horizon. So at least for the next decade, I would stay invested for growth. And, you know,
a 6040, 70, 30, 10, some sort of stock split that makes sense for them that will still provide
growth and limit that volatility. We did an episode of the 10 portfolios. Recently, it was a two-part
episode. Listen to that episode. It'll kind of tell you how volatile pro some different portfolios are.
And that'll give you just a good starting point and a financial education point to start making
your decisions. And then using a retirement calculator is really helpful. So Vanguard and Fidelity both have
some great ones. We probably need to develop our own based on some of the stuff we talk about here,
but using a retirement calculator can be really, really powerful, really powerful stuff. So honestly,
you are crushing it absolutely amazing that you are maxing out both TSP and Roth IRA. That sets
you up beautifully for early retirement to build flexibility. And then for your parents, using those
catch-up contributions, delaying that social security and staying invested is going to allow their
nest egg to continue to grow where they can really make some big, big progress there. So absolutely
amazing and thank you so much for the question. I am new to investing and I have no debt in about 30 grand
in cash in my bank account. I only make $60,000 per year, but have no children and pay cheap rent for a
house for my stepfather. I'm extremely lucky. I read a few books and they seem to recommend using
index funds and not worrying about individual stocks. Should I really put all of my expendable cash
into one index fund? I feel like I would not be doing enough. I also have a 401k through work,
which they match 4%. But I plan on putting in 15%. I think I'm doing one. I think I'm doing
well, but is there any advice that you could give me? So again, this is not financial advice,
but I'll kind of tell you, you are doing incredibly well, especially for someone who is brand new
to investing, and you have no debt, you have $30,000 in cash, awesome, awesome stuff. You have a really
high savings rate in a 401k with a 15% contribution, which is awesome. That is a rock solid
foundation for you, and I think that is really going to help you kind of walk through the next
steps of what you need to be doing. So one is I would keep a purposeful cash reserve. So
with that cash reserve, honestly, you may have to be.
I've heard our episode about the 136 method.
We want you to have at least six months of expenses saved into an emergency fund.
We walk you through how to do that in the 136 method episode.
But what you really want to make sure is that you have that in a high-yield savings account.
So if you spend $2,000 per month, you really need to have $6,000 to $12,000 in cash.
And then over time, since you have 30, you're doing a great job, you know, depending on how much you spend per month.
So it just depends on how much you spend on how much you would have in there.
So six months expenses is the ultimate goal that we want to have.
Step two is you are on pace to use a powerful investment strategy.
So in a recent episode, we talk about 10 portfolios, and there's a part one and part two.
It was about a month or so ago.
And in that episode, we talk about just some of the simple, powerful strategies.
In fact, you know, the books that you have read where they, you know, may have recommended
one index fund.
One common example of that is the simple path to wealth where it just recommends VTI.
That was on the top 10 list of the portfolios that have returned the most over the last
couple of decades, that was the one that actually returned the most, which is kind of crazy.
Warren Buffett portfolio, the 90-10 is a great one. But if you don't feel like you're doing enough,
like if you're saying to yourself, I just feel like I wouldn't stay invested in this plan because
I feel like I wouldn't be doing enough, you know, you can come up with a different plan that would
work for you with a couple different funds, maybe you want to add international, maybe you want to
add some bonds, that kind of stuff is there's nothing wrong with that at all. And we kind of talk
through those portfolios in that episode. Considering a Roth IRA would be a great option too, especially
if it's something where you make more than how much you can put in a Roth IRA, you can do a
backdoor Roth, but you can contribute up to $7,000 per year. And once you contribute that money,
it actually grows tax-free and you can pull that money out tax-free after the age of 59 and a half.
But your contributions, you can withdraw at any time without penalty. So that is a really,
really powerful thing that you could do there. And I love investing in index funds in my Roth
personally, but you can do your own research on that front for sure. And then step four is
investing what you don't need. So once you have your emergency funds set up, and if
if you started a Roth IRA, I would take the remaining chunk of cash and you can invest in
something like a taxable account or continue to increase your contributions to your 401k.
And it gives you stability so that you can do things like buy a home in a few years or take
a sabbatical or retire early.
There's so many options that you have once you start to invest your cash, that it is really,
really powerful to see how this money will grow over time.
And then understand that you are doing enough.
So you don't need 10 ETFs.
You don't need 40 stocks in constant research.
All the pros out there, they all recommend boring and business.
investing. I am a very boring investor myself. It's consistency, it's long-term compounding,
and it's low fees and a high savings rate. That's really what it takes. Consistency,
long-term compounding, low fees, high savings rate. If you have those four things, you will literally
become wealthy on autopilot. And that's the really important thing is to make sure that you are
thinking through that. And it sounds like you are crushing all of those. So absolutely amazing stuff.
That's how I would think about this in a quickest format I can think of here is to kind of follow those
steps. And if you have any questions on that, please let me know. But really, really good job and so
glad that you started investing. The next question is, spouse and I, 49 and 48, our after-tax pay
is $121,000. And currently, we save my entire pay. And my spouse saves 11% of his pay. We put into
savings in a high-yield savings account, mix of CDs, max out our HSA, and max out our Roth. I
contribute 9% in a 401k, and he contributes 6%. Both employers match 6%. Awesome stuff. We have no debt,
own our home and cars outright. I estimate we will need about $1.5 million to retire comfortably
living on the 4% rule. What can we do to ensure we hit that goal and be able to retire at 55?
So first of all, you are doing a phenomenal job with no debt, that super high savings rate and
maxing out tax advantage accounts and a clear retirement goal. First of all, you are way ahead
of the trajectory of a lot of people just thinking through that process and having that plan in place.
So let's look at your strategy and kind of focus through some of this stuff and see what you can do.
So depending on how much you have in retirement savings currently, that will be a big, big difference
maker.
But let's say, for example, that you are 49, you have six years to hit your goal and you already
have some retirement savings.
So let's just say you have 600,000 as a starting point.
And if you're saving aggressively, possibly $50,000 to $70,000 per year across Roth's,
HSAs and 401Ks in cash, then you can do a lot of cool things here.
So if you contribute $60,000 and you're starting balance with $600,000, in six years,
you have $1.16 million.
If you had $700,000 starting off and your annual contribution was 60, in six years you'd have
1.3. And then if you had $800,000 starting off and your annual contributions was $60,000,
you'd have $1.45 million. So you're likely on pace, but depends on how much you currently have
right now is a big, big thing that matters because of your shortened time frame of six years.
So we just got to see what you have there in place. In step two is I would prioritize investment
over cash if you really want to have that aggressive goal. Saving a lot of
lot into a high-yield savings account in CDs is great for short-term safety, but for long-term growth,
if you want some of that, just making sure you have six months of expenses saved in a high-yield
savings account, and then move the rest over to some of these. And then as you approach
retirement age, then you can increase that cash position as time goes on. That's the way I would
think about that. And then just continuing to run your retirement math. So I would look at something
like the Empower retirement calculator. Fidelity and Vanguard also have great retirement calculators.
Those two are fantastic. And you can plug in the age that you want to retire. And you can go through
and say, hey, I'm saving this amount of money. I already have X amount in years. Here's my current
assets and my future savings. That's how I would go through this, is running these through
retirement calculator so you can get the exact numbers based on your current situation. Again, Empower
has a great one. Fidelity and Vanguard have great ones that can give you the quick math on this,
because it really does depend on how much you currently already have invested for me to be able
to tell you how you can optimize that. So if you can increase your investments over time,
you have no debt, so powerful to have no debt. And if you can increase those investments
slightly over time, that's great too, but it sounds like you were doing more than enough to
to even get started here. And it's really, really powerful to see, you know, how much this money can
compound over time. So awesome, awesome job. There's a lot of things that you can consider here.
You know, since it's before 59.5, you can consider having a taxable account too, just so you can
bridge and have that flexibility over time. So really, really good stuff. And congratulations on making
that amazing progress. All right. The last question is, I recently found your podcast and I've been
hooked the past two months.
Thank you for sharing so much valuable insight. I'm reaching out for some tips. I'm 42, married with two boys, 11 and 8,
and just rolled over $35,000 from an old 401k into a rollover IRA. What's the next best step?
Here's our snapshot. My husband has $125,000 in a 401k and an employee stock account. We own a home in Northern California,
valued at $938,000, bought for $320,000, with $80K left on the mortgage, and we hope to pay it off in the next five to eight years.
We each use one credit card yearly for a vacation and focus on paying it off within a year of a balance of $6,000.
First of all, I'll just tell you right off the bat. Stop doing that. So vacations need to be paid off in cash.
Do not let the interest rate balance come in on your credit card. That's number one for sure.
We have about $5,000 in a high-yield savings account and adding $700 a month to it. Awesome, awesome stuff there.
Recently opened two custodial brokerage accounts with $4,000 each, contributing $150,000 total.
and I want to build wealth and retire comfortably in early in California one day. Any guidance would be
truly appreciated. All right. So let's look at your snapshot here. So your age 42, your husband's 401k plus
stock is 125,000. Your new rollover IRA has 35,000. You have 85,000 in home equity, which is awesome.
Your mortgage has $80,000 left on it, which is fantastic. You're going to get that paid off.
6K use for vacations paid off annually in credit card debt. I probably would stop that. That's the first thing I would
tell you to stop doing savings 5,000 in a high-yield savings account and adding $700 a month
and two custodial accounts, 4,000 each with $150 a month total. So the next steps that I would
think through is first, the custodial accounts. If you are not on track for your retirement goals,
I would probably stop those and contribute to yourself instead because overall you need to
prioritize your retirement first before your kids. I know it's hard for parents to hear,
including me all the time, but we must prioritize our retirement first because there's no loans for
retirement. And so it actually is helping benefit your kids in the long run if we prioritize our
retirement accounts first. So for sure, I would consider that if we're not on pace there. And then
secondarily, I would look at maximizing retirement contribution. So I would look at, you know,
starting to maximize things like the Roth IRA, for example. And over the long term, you can get money
into a Roth IRA and be able to, you know, put $7,000 per year, one for you, one for your spouse.
So you can get actually $14,000 per year between the two of you. And you can look at doing something
like that and investing it over time. The reason why the Roth IRA is so powerful as money goes in,
it grows tax-free, and you can pull the money out tax-free. And so you only pay taxes on the earned
income that you had when you earn that income. And so secondarily, though, with the Roth IRA,
if you make too much money or you make over the income limit, then with a Roth IRA, you can do a
back-door Roth, meaning you open a traditional IRA, and then you transfer that money into a Roth IRA.
A lot of people who make too much always say, well, I make too much, I can't open a Roth, but you
can. You can do a back-door Roth IRA. So it's really, really,
cool to be able to do that. Secondly, is you can start to look at maximizing your husband's 401k
and or your retirement account as well. And you can start to increase those contributions over time.
And then optimizing that rollover IRA is making sure it's obviously fully invested. Some people I have
seen roll over their IRA and they forget to take the next step, which is investing the money.
So you got to make sure that money is invested so it can grow over time and making sure that you are
using low fee investments that are not eating away into your returns and you have a diversified
asset mix is really, really important. Now, when it comes to your home equity, I think that's a great,
great progress that you have made there. And over the next five to eight years, I wouldn't rush to
pay it off. I mean, I think over time, you are okay. Since you have that interest rate that is low,
I would not rush to pay that thing off if it were me. Instead, I would work on focusing on growing my
investments over time and then going through and really focusing on those investments for sure.
Once you hit your 40s, you want to try to get as much money as you can in those investments and
really get that thing rolling. Also, making sure you have a lot of money.
an emergency fund in place. So the 136 method falls into play here as well, where you want to get
one month of expenses, then three. And once you have three, then you can start investing.
And then six months of expenses is also really, really important. And then also, if you want to
retire early, if you think you're on pace for that, you can look at a taxable account to
increase that flexibility overall. And that's going to be really, really help you over time.
Now, we want to keep these vacations guilt free. Okay. So this is the big one that I see first,
is a $6,000 charge on vacations is not the way we do.
it. We want you to pay cash for vacations so that you can do it guilt-free. So I would just start
a bucket in your high-ield savings account every year. And since you're already paying it off at the
end of the year every single year anyway, maybe you have to take a year off. And that's just how this
is going to have to go. But going into credit card debt for a vacation for a vacation is not something
you want to do. Instead, you want to pay for it in cash or take a smaller vacation this year and then
save up the cash for next year like you are paying off those cards. Just take those payments and put it
towards your vacation fund instead so that you can pay for it in cash. And that is going to really,
really help you over time is just having that sinking fund or that bucket in place that will help
you grow that amount over time. Now, final thoughts is you're doing exceptionally well. You have this high
home equity. You're growing your retirement assets. You're teaching your kids to invest, which is
absolutely fantastic. And you're intentional with debt and saving and actively thinking about your
future. So I think you are really, really making some awesome, awesome progress. And again, I would consider
you know, growing some of those contributions to the investment accounts, growing some of those
contributions and considering a Roth IRA and running the numbers on that. And then from there,
I would go and start to look at reducing, you know, those credit card payments instead of, you know,
putting it on that credit card. I would just pay for it in cash. And then over time, you can start to
really, really see some cool, cool changes. You are doing amazing, amazing work here. Congratulations
on what you're doing there. And really excited to see what you do here in the near future. So thank you
so much for the question. It's absolutely amazing. And thank you guys all for listening to this episode.
If you guys have any questions, make sure you join that Mastermoney newsletter by going to
Mastermoney.com slash newsletter. And you can ask your question to any of those issues that come out
every single week again. Thank you guys so much for being here. And we will see you on the next
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