The Rest Is Classified - 98. Putin’s Secret Army: The Rise of Prigozhin (Ep 1)
Episode Date: November 10, 2025From Putin’s chef to Putin’s butcher, this is the story of Prigozhin. A man on the brink of oligarchical power who flew a little too close to the sun… Listen as David and Gordon begin a new s...eries on the ill-fated life of the head of the infamous Wagner Group, Yevgeny Prigozhin. ------------------- THE REST IS CLASSIFIED LIVE 2026: Buy your tickets HERE to see David and Gordon live on stage at London’s Southbank Centre on 31 January. ------------------- Try Attio for free at https://www.attio.com/tric ------------------- Join The Declassified Club: Start your free trial at therestisclassified.com - go deeper into the world of espionage with exclusive Q&As, interviews with top intelligence insiders, quarterly livestreams, ad-free listening, early access to episodes and live show tickets, and weekly deep dives into original spy stories. Members also get curated reading lists, special book discounts, prize draws, and access to our private chat community. To sign up to the free newsletter, go to: https://mailchi.mp/goalhanger.com/tric-free-newsletter-sign-up ------------------- Order a signed edition of Gordon's latest book, The Spy in the Archive, via this link. Order a signed edition of David's latest book, The Seventh Floor, via this link. ------------------- Email: therestisclassified@goalhanger.com Twitter: @triclassified Social Producer: Emma Jackson Video Editor: Vasco Andrade Producer: Becki Hills Head of History: Dom Johnson Exec Producer: Tony Pastor Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
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Yevgeny Progogian, restaurateur to Vladimir Putin,
co-founder, the Inhas Wagner group, who a couple years ago led a mutiny,
which was the closest Vladimir Putin has ever come to being toppled from power.
He's one of Russia's richest and most powerful oligarchs.
He knows what people want.
Progosion brings this entrepreneurial streak to violence.
The man the Kremlin calls on to do its dirty work.
He is moving into a space that really only Putin should be in.
The government depends on Wagner for its survival.
At the moment of the peak, he's going to fly too close to the sun.
The world watched as the Wagner group turned on Russia's military.
The Afghani Progogian was enraged by what he says were Russian strikes on his troops in Ukraine.
This is the moment where you go civil war.
Putin is the ultimate apostle of payback, so I would be surprised if Progogian escapes further retribution for this.
If you cross Putin, the likelihood is you're going to die.
I've never been a chef.
I used to be a restaurateur and quite successful.
I can't cook myself.
They should have just called me Putin's butcher,
and everything would have been fine.
Well, welcome to the rest is classified.
I'm David McCloskey.
And I'm Gordon Carrera.
And those are the words of Yevgeny Progossian.
Restaurantor, not a cook.
restaurateur to Vladimir Putin,
co-founder, I think we'd say,
of the infamous Wagner group.
Yeah.
Private mercenary army used by the Kremlin,
soon to be friend of the pod.
Not sure about that.
After we complete our six-part investigation,
our series that we're starting this deep dive
into this murky world
that blends the security services,
the Russian security services,
private armies,
the Russian state
organized crime
and at its center
a man who used to run a hot dog stand
in St. Petersburg.
When you read that opening quote
I was thinking some people might thought
they got the rest is food
and we're just going to spend
there will be a culinary element
to this stuff.
There will be a culinary element
how to run a restaurant
you know how to develop a good menu
we're going to be looking at some of those things
as we also look at
sledgehammer's
you know murder and mayhem
and coups
so it's going to be a kind of
slightly crazy
mix of a series. But what I think is significant about
Evgeny Prigodzian, who, you know, a couple of years ago, led a
mutiny, effectively, in Russia, which was the closest
Vladimir Putin has ever come to being toppled from power.
You know, Putin has been there for more than a quarter of a century.
This was the one moment when people thought, on one day, it might be over.
He might be overthrown. And it was due to this one guy who has
started off selling hot dogs in St. Petersburg 25, 30 years ago, and new Putin all the way
from back then. So it kind of tells you quite a lot about Putin and power in Russia, I think.
It shows the extent to which I think Russian power feels very medieval. Yeah. It feels like a
medieval court in a lot of ways. I mean, here's this kind of spurned courtier, staffer to
who wants to or perhaps believes he's a bigger man in the system than he really is.
and who is going to come face to face with sort of the realities of how Putin manages the people
around him in this kind of hub and spoke model of sort of Russian autocracy, as we'll see.
And, you know, I think it also feels a lot like a criminal enterprise.
A gangland.
A gangland, you know, sort of a mafia, a spat between the big boss, right, to the Don, Putin and one of his kind of henchmen.
We have a tendency, I think, in the states or in the West and in the UK to view other states
through the lens of their bureaucracies.
And we think, okay, you've got your security services and you've got your military and there's
sort of an official, you know, system.
And as we'll see, Progosion, he's very entrepreneurial, isn't he?
I mean, he's a restaurateur.
He's an entrepreneur of food.
The seams of these power structures are where Progosion is going to really,
excel and he's a violent man. Yeah. And very entrepreneurial about his violence in the creation
of the Wagner Group. And this is also a globetrotting story, is definitely. We're going to go right
around the world. We're going to go from kind of Leningrad, St. Petersburg, in the kind of Cold War
days across Africa, Middle East, Syria, a place you know well, and then, of course, back to Moscow
and with a bit of time in Ukraine. So it's going to kind of encompass a story which really actually
has an impact on a huge number of countries.
You know, it's not just a story about Russia.
It's a story about Africa.
It's a story about the Middle East.
It's a story about Ukraine.
It's a story about Europe as well, I think.
That's right.
And we will journey to some of actually the worst places in the world.
Yeah.
And the darkest places.
The wilds of Mali and St. Petersburg during sort of the Soviet collapse.
And I guess maybe it makes sense, Gordon, to start with some places that will maybe even
worse, which is, you have Genni Pregosian's early life.
Yeah.
So, Hvgeny Progoshin, born in Leningrad.
in the Soviet Union, which is, of course, now called St. Petersburg,
1961, interestingly enough, a kind of middle-class Soviet intelligentsia family,
not a kind of poor working class family.
His mother, Violetta, works at a hospital.
His father, Victor, who dies early, is the nephew of a famous engineer.
He's growing up in a slightly dull, stifling world then of the Soviet Union in the late
60s and the 70s under Brezhnev.
He's known as Zenya.
Young Progoetian goes to a good school.
He goes to a boarding school, which specialises in sports, which he's into, it trains Olympians.
He's into cross-country skiing.
It's the classic story, which is, if he hadn't had an injury, he would have been an Olympic skier.
Now, I don't know if that's true.
But, you know, he's not handsome, but he's got a swagger.
Now, here's the thing, though.
Pretty good start in life.
But he leaves school at 16 in 1977, age 16, and he gets mixed up with the wrong crowd.
He drops out of school?
He leaves school, yeah.
And maybe it's because the sports thing isn't happening for him.
He's clearly clever. He's clearly ambitious, but he's not really suited or into those kind of middle class professional jobs there might have been. And for all the talk of equality in the Soviet Union, it's quite a stratified society in that point. He doesn't want to kind of move down the social class. He's a bit of a misfit, doesn't fit in. He can see people around him leading a fancier life. He's ambitious. He's hot-headed. He's a bit cruel. Does a brief stint as a PE, a physical,
education trainer. So you could have got your workout from Evgeny, but he quickly gets into
crime as a teenager. And this is the key moment. And it starts with petty crime. He's hanging
around with low-level criminals or on the make, gets arrested for petty theft aged 18 in
1979, two and a half year suspended sentence. He sent to work in Novgorod, 100 miles from
St. Petersburg in a chemicals factory, but he doesn't learn his lesson. Should have learned his lesson.
You know, life of crime does not play. At the chemicals factory.
Chemicals factory, but instead goes back to St. Petersburg after that, and this is where he gets
deeper into the world of crime. Do we know why he got into crime? Obviously, crime doesn't pay.
It doesn't pay. Kids don't do it. Yeah, don't do it. It's again, I think it's ambition, greed,
not having a place, and a desire, I guess you could see it from the earliest days, a desire for
things that he feels he should have, others have, and he doesn't have. He's going to want to
take those things. He's going to be ambitious to take them.
And I think you can see that when he starts hanging out in this, you know, as an 18-year-old, he hangs out with Alexei Lesha Bushman, who's a few years older and runs a small gang of a handful of thieves.
I think of kind of a Tickensian world of, you know, of street urchins.
Of street urchins here in St. Petersburg.
And he's going to, Progosion is going to help to pick the targets for their activity.
Sometimes people he knows.
February 1980, you break into apartment steal a vase, a candy bowl, a napkin holder, and some glasses.
with the value of $177 rubles.
It's not kind of big crime.
Next month, they steal a leather steering wheel cover.
I mean, and a set of ballpoint pens, a tape recorder, a denim jacket, and a women's handbag.
I mean, it's kind of...
At this point, this is all very juvenile.
This is pretty juvenile.
Yeah.
But they swindle a man out of $250 rubles over some jeans.
They go out drinking champagne to celebrate and brandy at a restaurant.
And at that restaurant, about midnight, they see a young woman with a fancy.
coat leaving the restaurant, and this coat speaks of money. So Progogian says, let's rob her. They follow her
by taxi, then on foot, and in a dark street, one of them asks her for a cigarette. Then Progosion
grabs her by the neck, and he starts to choke her. Another man pulls a knife. She screams,
Progosion to try and stop her, squeeze harder on her neck until she passes out. They drag her down
an alley, one person takes her boots, Progosion pulls off her earrings.
But a screams have already kind of summon the police who are nearby.
So these gang of thieves run.
One of them doesn't make it.
Procotion does.
But the police will eventually track them all down and come knocking.
So now he's in big trouble.
They're going to find the other stolen goods.
There's robbery with violence.
And he's broken his probation.
But I think you could see that story.
This is a guy who's cruel and violent.
You get a sense of a person.
He's selected the target.
He uses physical violence on her already at a young age.
At a young age as a kind of 18-year-old.
So he's going to get sentenced to 13 years in a penal colony.
Fortunately, I've never been to a Soviet gulag.
There's still time, Gordon.
But they are, I hear, famously brutal places.
You know, maybe not quite as dark as in Stalin's day.
It's where a go hangar rehabilitates its hosts.
So there's still time.
There's still time.
But this is Barovskoymir, the thieves world, inside these gulags, these prison camps.
Of course, there's violence.
prisoners in these huge barracks
and the barracks are run by the
prisoners rather than by the guards and the officials
and especially hardened criminal
gangs. And
so Procotion's going to learn from
here, you have to make friends with the
big guys to survive. It's the same lesson you learn
in any prisoners you know from your time in
Texas Penitentiary, David.
That's right.
You're either in... Sorry, you weren't there, but
if you're watching now, all of my tattoos
are covered up, so...
So you were in or out of the gang.
At the bottom of the pile were the roosters, as they were known, who were preyed on sexually by the other prisoners.
Now, there's no sign at the time that percussion was at the bottom, but we'll come back to that possibility later because at the end of his life, this will be raised as a issue.
If that's not enough reason to go and join the Declassified Club, so you get early access to all of these episodes, I can't help you.
Go to the rest is classified.com and sign up.
Because that's going to come back, that pin of the story.
But, you know, he learns to play by the system.
And he shows he's got what it takes to survive.
He gets a tattoo on his back of a woman.
And now this is made with a makeshift needle with the ink made from rubber, soot, and urine.
Again, you know, not part of my experience.
The back infection must have been tremendous.
What was the tattoo of a woman?
Just a woman.
Yeah.
Hopefully not the one he robbed.
But he asked for a transfer to a timber logging colony,
Because, of course, these are all labor camps.
You work.
And here, it's interesting.
He starts his own kind of business in which he gets other inmates to carve wood, which
then can be sold to people outside the camp.
So I guess what you see there is the combination of entrepreneurial, ambitious nature,
coupled with violence, brutality, and an ability to survive.
That is his personality there, you know, in those early days it's set, I think.
It reminds me of Pablo Escobar.
The other friend of the pod, you know, who had a kind of middle-class upbringing, but very early on demonstrated absolutely no interest in following any of the normal paths that would lead from that.
And who kind of tilts into crime early, gets involved in these gangs, has his own sort of personal capacity for violence.
He's not just at arm's length.
It's very similar.
It's very smart enough to run things rather than be the Soviet Union's changing while he's in prison.
Yeah, exactly.
So he's imprisoned in this period in the 80s.
85 Gorbachev comes to power, younger generation of leaders, wants to open up the Soviet Union,
there's going to be political and economic reforms, new private enterprise, new freedoms,
opportunities for the ambitious.
Eventually, of course, as we know, that's going to spiral out of control.
And Progoshion gets released in 1990.
That's effectively the last year of the Soviet Union before it's going to collapse and
there's going to be a coup in 1991 to try and halt the changes.
But effectively, you've got the end of the Soviet Empire, the end of Russia's control through the Soviet Union of places like Ukraine and the Baltic states, and Russia, as it hits the 90s, enters this wild decade.
Economic collapse, massive social change, a kind of wild west mafia capitalism in which business deals are done with threats of violence to accompany them, everyone trying to get rich as fast as they can and get rich so they have enough power to.
To stop them getting killed by arrival, it's kind of brutal violent world.
Maybe it's less the case now.
But when I was in school and I was learning about this era in Russia, there was a tendency to view
it through the lens of this kind of attempted and ultimately failed experiment with liberal
democracy.
To some degree that's true.
But I think it's better or more accurate to see this as a bunch of people who were living
essentially in a failed state.
a government, in a society, an empire in many ways that had collapsed.
Yeah.
And the violence, you know, it's interesting talking to former agency officers who served
in Leningrad and then St. Petersburg in the 90s, you know, they would talk about regularly
hearing gunshots, explosions.
It's a sense of a place that had kind of come apart at the seams and that was very lawless.
Yeah.
And I think that kind of, for a criminal entrepreneur.
Like, if you have any progoshin, there's a lot of opportunity.
Exactly.
So everyone is trying to get rich.
Everyone needs protection from someone more powerful to avoid being at the bottom of the parle.
In some ways, I think, you know, all of this, as you said, is suited to progoshion, who, you know, understands violence and business.
In some ways, the outside world is now becoming like the world of the Russian or the Soviet prisons.
The prisons.
Yeah.
You know, it's kind of mirroring some of that power structures in which having protection is actually, you know,
translating into the business world of Russia.
So he got this feel for it.
So he's going to drop out of college.
He's going to marry Lubov in 1991, works at a car dealership.
But his side hustle, and I love this, is running kiosks in Leningrad selling hot dogs.
Now, this is, I mean, this is where some of his reputation is a hot dog salesman comes from.
Sausages have been around for a while in Russia, the Soviet Union.
But the key was, no bun.
No bun.
No mustard.
No mustard.
No ketchup.
So you do that.
And suddenly you take the old sausage, add those things, and you have something kind of cool and western and new, which in the 1990s, we're going to do very well.
It's the genes of the culinary world.
It is.
The hot dog.
That's our first food reference.
He says he mixes the mustard in his kitchen.
And his mother, Violetta, helps count cash.
His wife isn't helping.
No, but his mother kind of is there actually all through his career.
It's interesting in the kind of background.
She's got an interesting figure.
But he's making money pretty quickly.
And he says he's having to pay $100 per kiosk per month protection money to the gangs.
So you get a sense already that he's getting to know the gangs and understanding how to navigate that world.
Is it maybe perhaps my only piece of knowledge that I'll drop on Russian criminality?
I believe the Russian word, which I will horribly mispronounce, for protection.
Krisha.
Yeah, a roof.
Yeah.
An overhang, something over top of your head.
Yeah, exactly.
Yeah, so he's paying for Grecia.
And here in St. Petersburg, it's interesting.
We were talking to an exile Russian the other day.
He was saying, you know, Moscow, you have a central authority.
You have the Kremlin.
You have power.
But St. Petersburg, you know, what had been landed is a little bit wilder.
You know, actually the thugs, the spooks, the businessmen have slightly freer rain.
And they're all kind of mixing together in this world as well, all using each other for kind of money, protection, muscle.
Everyone's on the take.
So Procogs is starting to move with more senior gangsters.
They can see he's got good skills.
You know, they can see his ambition.
So he moves on from hot dogs.
He manages some grocery stores and then casinos,
classic kind of gangster thing,
which, of course, the casinos are closely tied to the banks and to the gangs.
Then comes the kind of the beginnings of the move
into the world of restaurateurying.
1995, he's running a place called the Wine Club, a bar.
He's got an English manager called Tony,
which I guess makes him look classy
although it does occasionally feature strippers as well
so it's not that classy
could be classy
and then comes the big break
because he opens a restaurant called the old customs house
it's a fancy old 19th century building
on the riverfront near the Winter Palace
Tony the English manager comes along
French chef
Where does the capital come from for this
Is it the hot dog money?
I think is he just kind of slowly
is working his way up
He's got some business partners as well
who are basically gangsters
And at that point
they're in it together, and he'll eventually kind of ease them out.
And it's interesting, because he can be charming, but also violent.
He supposedly assaulted a chef after a complaint from a customer about the quality of the food.
The chef was taken to the cellar and pummeled to the point of being hospitalized for two months.
It's like, not quite Gordon Ramsey shouting at you.
No, it's a lot worse.
It's not merely verbal abuse.
Yes, indeed.
It's a lot worse.
So he's got mix of charm and violence.
Place will serve foreign food.
That's the key because, you know, the elite want the foreign food.
French foie gras, oysters from Brittany, starting to be the same, you know,
place where the new elite are kind of moving.
World of mobsters and bodyguards, city officials, spooks.
To me, I don't know, Chicago, you know, it feels like Vegas.
Chicago in the 20s and 30s.
Yeah, Vegas in the 50s.
I don't know, something like that.
It's got a feel of that, hasn't it?
It does.
It's sort of borderline lawless and yet real collaboration in some cases.
between the authorities and the criminals.
I think that to me is one of the hardest things to understand.
Yeah.
About, I mean, Russia in that period and Russia today is this very strange kind of marriage.
Yeah.
Between the security services, then the KGB, FSB, and these guys like Progogian,
who have lived for so much of their life sort of outside of the law, you know, but they're all.
They're all on the make.
On the make.
And they all kind of need each other.
I guess that's the point.
So, you know, this is his first restaurant.
According to Candace Rondo's book, Putin's Sledgehammer,
among the guests at this place are Susie Quattro and the Petchop Boys.
I don't know if those are references which mean a lot to you.
I know the Pet Shop Boys because my dad is a big Pet Shop Boys fan.
Okay, very good.
And I listened to that extensively as a child.
There you go.
Susie Guatro.
But if the Pet Shop boys listen,
let us know if you ever visited one of Progoshin's restaurant.
But about that time, it's thought Putin is kind of moving in these circles.
So in some ways, Putin and Progression, I think, are kind of similar because they are two people who've grown up on the wrong side of the street, you know.
And Putin has come from quite a poor background in Leningrad, now St. Petersburg.
And he grew up in a kind of crowded apartment blocks.
And Yuliofe, the journalist, you know, talks a bit about this, about the world of the courtyard, the VOR, which is where, you know, the courtyard of these apartment blocks, as a boy, Putin would have to show he could survive again.
the bullies and the thugs. And he's a small guy, Putin. Yeah. And so his way of surviving was to
show he was capable of more violence than anyone else. It's essentially, I mean, it's not quite
this, but it's not dissimilar to the dynamics of the prison camp. Exactly. I think it's the same
kind of dynamics, which is you've got to show strength. You never show weakness. You're loyal to
your friends. Anyone who bullies you, you hit them back harder. That's the kind of teenage world
Putin grew up in Leningrad, St. Petersburg.
So you can already see he's projecting the tough guy, I think.
You know, it's why he learns martial arts because he knows because he's small, he's got to survive.
That's what he's come from as well.
And that's also why Putin is going to be quite good at prospering in this new world of rough, tough, violent, kind of thuggish capitalism security services of Russia in the 90s.
You know, he's got the right skills, just like Progosion, I think.
It's fascinating when you look at the demographics in the Soviet Union in the 50s.
how many of the men were dead.
Yeah.
And how the Soviet state around the time that, you know, guys like Putin and Progogian
are being brought up has essentially tried to engineer a baby boom to resurrect the
population without any dads around.
Yeah.
So you do, you have this, I mean, not to get all touch a filial on it, Gordon, but it's like,
it's a period in time where they actually, there aren't a lot of dads around.
And so you have, you know, whether it's these prison camps or whether it's these court,
you know, the Vore, these courtyards.
I mean, it's a pretty unsupervised.
time for young Russian men. And I guess maybe there, Gordon, having set up the young,
entrepreneurial, criminal, sort of brutal. Yeah.
Yvgeny Progoshin. Let's take a break. And when we come back, we'll see how he gets enmeshed
into the world of Vladimir Putin. See you off to the break.
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Cue the music.
Like NCIS, Tony and Ziva.
We'd like to make up your own rules.
Tulsa King.
We want to take out the competition.
The substance.
This balance is not working.
And the naked gun.
That was awesome.
Now, that's a mountain of entertainment.
Peripal.
Well, welcome back.
Evgeny Progogian is rising through the ranks of illicit but also increasingly official
St. Petersburg Society and he is going to become Putin's chef.
Yeah, that's what he gets noticed.
But it's interesting trying to work at exactly when
they met, it's a little bit murky. Both of them, I think, hid it a bit. But Putin is going to
turn up, perhaps at his first, Progogian's first big restaurant, the old customs house.
They might have also had some contact because Putin at one point sits on the gambling board.
So Putin, we should say, has been a KGB officer. But then around the time of the end of the
Soviet Union, he moves into city government as an advisor to the mayor of St. Petersburg.
And so it's at that point that him and Progogian are going to meet in this kind of murky milieu
of, you know, kind of spies, crooks officials.
You know, maybe, as I said, because of the casinos that Progogian is running and Putin's
on the gambling board, the extent to which Putin himself is involved in criminality is long
been questioned about that period in the 1990s.
There's a lot of interesting, slightly murky connections and deals, but it's fair to say
that those who knew about it are largely dead or are close to Putin.
people who've looked into it.
What are you implying?
They've met strange ends.
But they're going to get to know each other, Progogeon, and Putin.
I think one thing to say is, though, it's very much,
progotion is more like staff.
The phrase Putin's chef, you know, which will come to, is kind of true.
He's someone who's useful, who's staff, who works, if you like, downstairs working for the boss.
He's not, you know, on the same level in some ways as this.
Of course, it's not quite true because he's not going to cook for Putin, but he's going to
to run the restaurant and run the catering, which I think, you know, suggests the power balance of
the relationship. So Progotion's restaurant business grows, and this is important for the story,
because he's inspired by a trip to Paris and he sets up his new company, Concord Catering,
and Concord will be the name, which is the kind of overarching business structure, which is going to
run a lot of these things. They're going to buy a rusty old boat, remodel it, and turn it into
a fancy floating restaurant called New Island. Now, this does really well, has its
own truffle menu, David, which I always like a place. He's gone from hot dogs to a truffle-themed
menu with white glove waiters. He's moving up. And it is all about ostentatious wealth. He's good
about understanding what the rich, what the elite, what they want. He's got just that instinctive
feel of what they want and he knows how to offer it to them. Interestingly enough, the kind of
waiters also are good at overhearing conversations and reporting back to him, but he's very discreet.
And Putin, meanwhile, is on the rise. So they've encountered each other. But Putin is actually going to move from St. Petersburg to Moscow. And he's going to go into official positions in Moscow in the presidential administration. He's going to get picked to run the FSB, the security service. He's become prime minister in 1999. By 2000, you know, at the end of the 90s, Putin is president of Russia. And he's going to bring a lot of his Leningrad, St. Petersburg friends with him.
him to Moscow and keep them close throughout his life. And Putin's message, of course, is there's
been this decade of Wild West, of humiliation, of economic collapse, of the West exploiting
us, of just, you know, disaster and violence and crime. And Putin's message is, I will bring
order. I will bring stability. I have the right skills. And, you know, you can see people responded
to that after this period of chaos. Prokoshion, though, is still in Leningrad or St. Petersburg.
He's not one of the inner circle of friends.
I guess if you move, you don't necessarily bring your caterer with you.
To the other city, right?
You bring your mates.
You bring your close friends.
But Putin hasn't forgotten him.
And so two months after he becomes president, Putin brings the Japanese prime minister
to the New Island floating restaurant to show off.
So he is a chef, but it's a kind of interesting position because one thing,
as we get to the kind of way
in which being a chef to a leader is important
is that you have to also be trusted
to be a chef
because you've got to be trusted
you're not poisoning the food
which in medieval times
the chef was a kind of trusted position
and actually Putin's own grandfather
weirdly had been a chef to Lenin and Stalin
so also wonder if Putin's got
kind of admiration for chefs
or a kind of respect for them
so he's kind of decided
progogeon is his trusted chef
You know, not chef as in cook, but, you know, caterer, person to do it.
Supplier.
Supplier, yeah, exactly.
Of food and food experiences.
And Putin wants to show off to all these kind of foreign leaders who he's bringing to Russia.
Actually, Russia isn't what you thought it was, this kind of collapsing country.
You know, we're capable of having fancy restaurants.
So next year, Progogian is serving wine to President Chirac of France, whom Putin has brought to as a guest.
And Prigin will claim in a resume, which of course might be boasted, that he capable of
to 70 leaders of countries, including Prince Charles, now the king here, Tony Blair, Berlusconi of Italy,
the then-king of Saudi Arabia.
Why is he writing a resume?
It gets hacked at some point.
It's a little bit murky.
This is how you know he's not actually one of Putin's friends.
If you're having to draft a resume in the Russian system, you are not in the inner circle.
One person we do know for sure that he does really serve is President George W. Bush.
Because there's a couple of pictures of him being served by Progoshin at the table.
One on May 25th, 2002.
The menu, I think this is important because now we get to our rest of his food beef.
That's right.
The menu was...
This is our audition.
Yeah, exactly.
He's looking to be sponsored by some fancy restaurants.
The menu was duck liver patte and gingerbread.
I don't know what.
I think about that.
I don't know.
Served with prunes and aged pork caramel.
I don't know.
I don't know. It's not coming by the thing. Black caviar on ice, fried fillet of beef with black truffles accompanied by fresh morels and baby carrots, boiled in a row and broth and raspberry milfuey for dessert. Excuse me. I can't even read these words.
No, I know. Your French pronunciations are notoriously uneven. I wouldn't make a good, kind of, you know, matriety at the rest of his classified restaurants.
You were not selling our rest is food pitch very well, Gordon.
But what I love is, you can see in the picture, Procogion is there kind of behind Putin and Bush.
He's kind of, you know, he's there making sure everything goes well.
He is the kind of matriety of the thing.
Putin then celebrates his birthday at the New Island Restaurant 2003.
And we should say follow us on Instagram to see that photo.
Because we will certainly be posting that to the feed.
On the social media feed.
And Bush gets served again in 2006 when all the leaders are there at a G8 summit.
It's not at the restaurant, but Progosion is doing the caterer.
This time Prokosion wears a silver tie.
And the menu this time, should we go through it?
We should.
Astrakhan.
Astrakhan tomatoes?
Yeah.
Do you know what those are?
No.
No, tomatoes from Astrakhan, I guess.
We're riding and tell us, if you know.
In balsamic vinegar.
Crayfish with gooseberry marmalade.
I don't know what I feel about that.
You know what this reminds me of?
Yeah.
I have you listened to the Restis History episode on medieval cooking.
Yeah.
Where people are eating like, you know, it's like eel.
Yeah, and you're like, why would you do that?
It's not luxury.
Eels, like, stuffed with cow liver, you know, and like, you know, duck hearts or something like that.
This is like combining some exotic and strange animals with weird, weird flavors and sauces.
Fried smelt with turnips and baby zucchini.
I don't even know what smelt is.
But I like this one fact, Bush, President Bush, ordered a steak.
He didn't want it.
He saw the crayfish.
Floating in the gooseberry marmalade, and he's like, I have a steak.
But Progosion's doing well, right?
I mean, he's now, I mean, I guess as all of these ridiculous menus suggest,
when Putin is entertaining really important world leaders, he goes to Progosion.
Yeah.
To provide the service of the catering and the food.
Yeah, exactly.
So he's not, Progotion isn't one of the kind of big oligarchs.
He's not like a kind of billionaire who's, you know, got lots of power in the 90s.
He's kind of a new breed of people who are becoming rich,
under Putin and thanks to Putin and owe their loyalty to him.
But he's not quite in the kind of category of either the big billionaires or millionaires
or Putin's close pals like Sergei Shogu, you know, who is one of his, you know, Putin's old
judo partner.
So, you know, he's a pal, but Shogu will become Progossian's arch nemesis eventually.
There's also other things.
He tries something called Bleedy and McDonald's.
So Blini's a, you know, kind of a little pancakes.
A little pancakes.
And it's Blinnie Donald's, Blinnie Donald's, which is a kind of like version of McDonald's, I guess.
Do we have any of the menu?
Like, do we know what the menu was?
No, I mean, I'm fine.
The menu's been wiped from the internet.
Because I think that business collapses.
He also weirdly writes a kid's book in 2004 because he's now-
Renaissance, man.
Exactly.
He's going legit.
Supposedly with his son, because he's now got son Pavel and a daughter, Pallina.
And it's the tale of a little boy and a sister who live with their family inside a chandelier.
The boy falls from the ceiling into the world of normal human-sized beings and tries to get home.
And a boy in this world of big people helps them out.
Anyway, it's self-published.
So, so, 2,000 copies given away.
He was able to get contracts from the Russian state for food services, but he was not able to get a job published.
But the business empire is growing.
He gets rid of some of his kind of dodgier gangland partners.
He opened restaurants in Moscow, again, where he can kind of ingratiate himself with the new elite.
Now, the point is he's going to use his friendships to get big government contracts.
So he's now moving from restaurants to catering supply, and including also, you know, things like construction and real estate.
But the crucial thing is he gets a contract for food for schools.
Putin himself will open one of the factories doing the supply.
I don't think the kids got the truffles and the caviar.
I think this was a slightly lower level of catering.
And actually, there's lots of reports in later years about the kids, you know,
end up with vomiting bugs and dysentery from a daycare and school facility.
The quality control was lax relative to the state dinners he was serving.
So he's getting particularly gets to know a guy called Dimitri Bulgarcov,
who's in charge of logistics for the Ministry of Defense.
You can see how he's moving in these circles.
And that gets him a crucial contract for the military.
worth about 500 million pounds, $750 million to supply food for the Russian army.
Now, that is a big country.
Yeah, that's a big deal.
That's huge.
Yeah.
So he's moving into making big money now, which again is just this entrepreneurial guy.
May 2008, his company Concord Catering wins the contract to feed guests at Dimitri Medvedev's presidential inauguration.
So, important part of the story, Putin's been in power as president.
But 2008, he decides he's going to step back to being prime minister.
And his kind of protégé at that time, Medvedev is going to kind of hand over.
But the problem is Medvedev doesn't do what Putin wants.
You know, Putin's going to feel dissatisfied.
And Putin is going to decide he needs to come back as president.
You know, he's tried stepping back.
It doesn't like it.
Shocking.
But that doesn't go well with those who thought Russia was on the path to a more liberal, you know, Western democratic system.
And so when Putin says he's coming back, there's actually street protests, particularly in the big cities.
particularly claims of rigged elections.
This is all kind of December 2011.
And Putin hates these protests.
He comes to see them as being organized by those sneaky folks at the CIA,
you know, all part of a plot by Western intelligence to bring about regime change in Russia.
Strangely, people linked to precaution are doing some of the catering for the protesters.
And this is a kind of weird detail, but it is interesting.
Now, that's odd.
unless you realize he might be using it to kind of spy on them and understand what's happening,
which is the nexus of catering and espionage that we've been searching for in this series.
We've just found it.
We just found it.
So Putin hates these protests.
He fears the West is trying to spread, you know, these color revolutions which have happened
in neighboring countries to kind of bring down pro-Moscow government.
So he's getting more and more aggrieved.
He wants to crack down on dissent at home, go after his critics as he returned to the presidency.
He's famously called, you know, the internet, a CIA project.
So he views the internet and the West as driving and using social media in these things designed to kind of spread Western ideas, undermine the country.
And so at this point, he's going to think, I've got to do something about that.
You know, I need to fight back.
And interestingly enough, he's going to end up turning to Progosion to do this.
who does not at first blush seem like a natural sort of resource in this fight.
No.
Does he?
No.
And that, I think, is one of the curiosities of this story, is that you're going to take someone who's been a criminal, a thug, a kind of restaurateur, a supply caterer, and who is yet going to be part of Putin's core political project, both within Russia and then.
extending even into the United States.
That sounds like a cliffhanger to me, Gordon.
It is, David.
And I think there with the former hot dog vendor now on the cusp of finding himself
at the center of Russian official disinformation campaigns, let's stop.
And when we come back, we will see exactly how Yipgeny Progoshin, I guess, ends up in the middle
of a disputed
American election.
See you next time.
We'll see you next time.
But don't forget.
Oh, don't forget.
We almost forgot.
We almost forgot.
We almost forgot.
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George Orwell was one of the most impactful voices of the 20th century.
But do you know what, his life story is just as interesting as the things he wrote.
I'm William Drimple.
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And on Empire, we're currently in the middle of a gripping four-part series about the life of George Orwell.
All Will's early life was wrapped up in the British Empire.
He was born in India to an opium trading father,
and in his 20s, he served as a colonial police officer in Burman.
His later life crystallised his hatred of totalitarianism.
As an idealistic writer, he travelled to fight with the Republicans
against Franco's fascists in the Spanish Civil War,
and he witnessed the horrors of the Blitz.
These experiences led him to write his most famous novels,
Animal Farm and 1984, giving us enduring phrases like Big Brother,
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