The Rich Roll Podcast - Colin O’Brady Shatters The Explorers Grand Slam World Record: Ruminations On Risk, Limits, Fear & Giving Back
Episode Date: June 27, 2016In documented history, only 44 people have successfully completed the extraordinary feat of adventure athleticism known as the Explorers Grand Slam — a challenge that encompasses scaling the high...est mountain on each of the seven continents and treks to both the North and South Poles. Of these 44, only 2 have done it under a year. Not only is today's guest the youngest person to conquer this most prestigious undertaking, Colin O'Brady absolutely smashed the world record by an incredible 53-day margin, completing the EGS in a mere 139 days. Along the way, he simultaneously broke the 7 Summits world record by two days. A Yale grad turned professional triathlete and Olympic hopeful, Colin is one very impressive young man. But perhaps more admirable than his mind boggling achievements is Colin's commitment to service by way of his non-profit organization Beyond 7/2 – a directed mission to combat childhood obesity by raising $1 million on behalf of the Alliance For A Healthier Generation, a non-profit founded by the American Heart Association and the Clinton Foundation dedicated to helping kids to develop healthy habits. If you are relatively new to the podcast, it's worth noting that Colin and I sat down this past December on the eve of his world record attempt. In case you missed it, RRP 207 is great conversation about his unique upbringing on a commune, his experiences swimming for Yale, how he survived an almost lethal burn accident that left him unlikely to walk again, his phoenix like transformation into a professional ITU triathlete and Olympic hopeful, and how he morphed into a mountaineer with the audacity to attempt such an incomprehensible feat of adventure athleticism. Picking up where we left off, this conversation recounts the highs and lows of Colin's extraordinary accomplishment. It's a conversation about the physical, mental, emotional and spiritual fortitude required to push beyond the ceiling of perceived ability. It's a conversation about facing and overcoming obstacles. It’s about life and death decisions. Risk. Limits. Fear. It’s about the indomitable nature of the human spirit to overcome and persevere. And its about the importance of giving back. Specific topics include: * completing The Explorer's Grand Slam in world-record time * conquering Everest after the North Pole * sharing Colin’s experiences through social media * severe frostbite and the risks of amputation * attempting fastest ascent of the 7 Summits * rational fatalism & objectivity * 10,000 hours of deliberate practice * navigating risk & fear It was an honor to spend a couple hours with this extraordinary human. My hope is that this conversation will help you question your own internal limiters and confront you with the very real truth that we are all capable of so much more than we allow ourselves to believe. I sincerely hope you enjoy the exchange. Peace + Plants, Rich
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You know, I was kind of in a place where I felt I wanted to do a project that still you know quenched my thirst
for endurance challenge pushing my own personal limits but a little bit away
from the traditional race course and that had a greater purpose behind it you
know for me to combine my endurance athleticism with a charitable platform
was a huge draw for me in doing this project. That is Colin O'Brady, and this is the Rich Roll Podcast.
Greetings, everybody. My name is Rich Roll. I'm your host. Welcome to the Rich Roll Podcast,
the show where each week I sit down with a wide variety of incredibly inspiring people,
thought leaders, paradigm breakers, athletes, doctors, filmmakers, authors, advocates,
and even the occasional everyman. And I do this across all categories of wellness, fitness, food, entrepreneurship,
creativity, and basically just positive social change. And hosting this podcast has completely changed my life in innumerable ways. I can't even articulate how much meaning it has to me
personally. And my hope is that it will serve you in your journey to unlock your best, most authentic self.
And on that point, and before getting into the meat of today's episode, I thought I'd
share a listener email with you.
Now, look, I get tons of incredible emails from you guys.
I read all of them.
I appreciate it more than you know, even if I don't always get back to everybody.
And I haven't really shared any of these letters with you guys,
because honestly it feels a little weird
and self-congratulatory to be honest.
But I got one this week that really impacted me
and I think crystallizes why I do what I do.
So I wanted to share it with you guys.
It's from a guy called Aaron.
I'll leave his last name out of it
in case he doesn't want to be personally identified.
And it goes like this.
Hey Rich, I'm sure you've heard a thousand times that you have inspired someone to change
their lives for the better. I feel from your podcast and videos that though you receive this
praise often, it does not appear to change you. Bravo for that. Thank you for that, Aaron. Anyway,
I'd like to share my story with you. I am 41 years old and my weight has always been an issue.
my story with you. I am 41 years old and my weight has always been an issue. At mid 41,
I weighed 305 pounds at well over 40% body fat. I have diabetes and refuse to take medications. So my fasting blood sugar was about 160. My blood pressure and cholesterol was higher than I'd like.
I had aches and pains everywhere. I wasn't sleeping. I have liver and gallbladder issues and I was very out of shape. June 16,
2016. I had a heavy lunch at work, ribs and barbecue chicken with deep fried veggies like
they do in the South. I live in North Carolina. And when I got back to work, I stopped halfway
up a flight of stairs and thought I was going to pass out. Sweating heavier than normal and
breathing heavier than normal. I remembered you from Finding Ultra. Sure, I listened to the podcast, yours and Julie's.
I subscribe on YouTube.
I own the Plant Powered Way.
I watched the nutritionfacts.org videos,
but I'm a paleo guy.
I eat bacon every day and meat at every single meal
with the occasional salad for crunch.
I have burgers for breakfast, man.
Well, fast forward to me on a flight of stairs
about to pass out with a skyrocketing
blood sugar. I have not had meat or dairy since. That was five days ago, Rich. Five days. As of
this morning, I have lost 10 pounds. My blood sugar has dropped 20 points or more staggeringly,
13%. My blood pressure is normal. My aches and pains have gone. I'm sleeping better. I don't
get lethargic after lunch, no matter how much I eat.
And my endurance has almost doubled.
I can play around a golf without being winded.
I swam three extra laps Saturday.
I climbed those same stairs yesterday
and this morning without feeling bad.
Five days.
Wow.
I feel our stories are so similar
and that's why it resonates with me.
I'm chained to an office job I hate.
I'm overweight and fighting food addiction by the minute. If you'll allow, I'd like to check in in a bit in
a few more days and let you know how I'm doing. I know you're busy and do not expect a response
or really expect you to even read this. I just wanted to share it with someone, someone who's
been there, even if it's a virtual presence and community. Wow, Five days and I'm a different person. I don't hate meat
or have a political agenda. I just don't want it. And my body is starting to thank me for not eating
it. All right. So that's the email. That is just amazing. An everyday guy making a few simple
changes with almost immediate and really profound results. I'm just, I'm blown away. So congrats, Aaron.
I live for this stuff.
This is my fuel.
I'm really touched.
And I just want to encourage you to keep going
and simply say thank you for sharing your story.
And yes, please keep me posted
and I can share these updates on the podcast
with your permission.
It's up to you.
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I've got a really amazing show for you guys today. If you're a longtime listener, then you know that
I had Yale grad turned professional triathlete Colin O'Brady on the podcast back in January.
It was on the eve of his world record attempt to
become the youngest and the fastest human to ever complete the Explorer's Grand Slam. Now,
this is an adventurer's challenge that entails summiting the highest mountain on each of the
seven continents, as well as treks to both the North and the South Poles. Only 44 people in
documented history have successfully completed
this challenge at all. Most of these people devoted their entire life towards accomplishing
this goal. And of the 44, only two have done it in under a year. So in case you missed it,
definitely check out our first episode together. It's RRP 207. It's a great conversation about Colin's unique upbringing on
a commune, his experiences swimming for Yale, how he survived an almost lethal burn accident that
left him unlikely to even walk again, and then his Phoenix-like transformation into a professional
ITU triathlete and Olympic hopeful, and how he then morphed into this mountaineer with the audacity to attempt such
an incomprehensible feat of adventure athleticism.
In any event, I'm super thrilled to announce that he did it.
The guy did it.
Not only did he absolutely smash the Explorers Grand Slam world record by an incredible 53-day
margin, he did it in 139 days. The previous world record was
192 days. And along the way, he also beat the Seven Summits world record by two days. It's just
amazing. More impressive than this mind-boggling achievement is Colin's commitment to service,
his conviction to land a blow to childhood obesity by raising a million
dollars on behalf of the Alliance for a Healthier Generation, which is a nonprofit founded by
the American Heart Association and the Clinton Foundation dedicated to helping kids develop
healthy habits.
And this is a promise that he is now fully focused on following through on with all of
his many incredible talents. So, this is a conversation
about the physical, mental, emotional, and spiritual fortitude required to conquer this
challenge, the obstacles faced and overcome. It's a conversation about life and death decisions.
It's about risk and limits and fear. It's about the indomitable nature of the human spirit to overcome and persevere.
And it's about giving back. So without further ado, ladies and gentlemen, the incredible Colin O'Brady.
Dude, you did it. I can't believe it. Unbelievable, unbelievable man i'm so proud of you it's
amazing i'm so glad that you uh uh made your way up to our house to reprise uh our first podcast
and tell us all about how you uh how you broke this world record and did all the crazy stuff
that you did it's just amazing yeah man it's uh it's crazy. It doesn't feel like long ago. I was sitting in your studio before just talking about this, and it was a lofty goal
at a time, an idea we'd put a ton of, obviously, effort and work into, but you never know how these
things are going to turn out. Particularly, a lot of things had to go our way with not just
perseverance, but luck and logistics and all this sort of stuff.
So to be sitting here having successfully completed not just one, but two world records is beyond belief, really.
It's still just sinking in.
It's crazy.
So you were here, let's see, it was January, right?
So it was about six months ago?
Yeah, I think we actually did it in December because I left on Christmas days.
But it was only a week or so before I left.
It was pretty much right as I was getting ready to take off for Antarctica. So unbelievable. Yeah. So I
want to go through the whole thing and get the entire experience. But why don't we start with
Everest? Because there was a lot of stuff that went down on Everest, right? So Everest kind of
fell. It wasn't the final challenge, but it was the second to last, right?
Yes.
Yes.
So just, uh, I guess to give a little context for those who didn't maybe hear the first
one, the, uh, the record I was trying to set was the explorers grand slam.
So that's to climb the tallest mountain on each of the seven continents as well as complete
an expedition, both the North and South pole.
And name, and let's name, why don't we just run through the names of those mountains?
Yeah.
So started off at the South pole. the tallest mountain in antarctica is mount
vincent from there went to akon kago which is the tallest mountain in south america and then to
kilimanjaro in africa after that it was to karstens pyramid uh in australasia and then onward to mount
elbrus in russia the tallest mountain in europe and then
the final third which was really the big the big big third was uh the north pole straight to everest
and then to finish with denali right so that that was the challenge that was the gauntlet and you
did it in 132 days so 139 days to complete the explorers grand slam and then we can talk about this later but i
also snuck in a second world record by beating just the seven summits record in 132 days so
yeah so so the explorers grand slam record you crushed because the other record was like 190
exactly yeah and the seven summits record you just beat by like two days yeah it was right down to
the very wire so it wasn't what i had set out to achieve but once we getting towards the end of the project realized it was in play we had to uh had to chase
it had to make it happen yeah exactly so all kinds of crazy uh ups and downs along the way this was
not easy not all the chips fell in your direction of course yeah there's no way they were going to
for sure lots of obstacles uh but you persevered man man. Yeah, it's crazy. And you look healthy.
You're not covered in frostbite,
all kinds of stuff that could have happened.
Got all the fingers, all the toes.
That was the primary goal,
much more important than the world record.
So yeah, to come back and be, you know, I'm exhausted.
Still haven't really caught up on sleep.
Body's definitely still thrown around,
but considering that, that's the worst of it. I mean, yeah, didn't, uh, didn't get injured out there. And that was one of the things that I feel like is just a stroke of luck. Cause you know, you want
to think, you know, in the mountains, there's obviously a lot of risks, you know, avalanche
or falling into a crevasse or something like that. The big scary mountain things, but it's also just
139 days, a long time just to be like out there, you're going to trip over a tent pole or twist your ankle on some innocuous rock or something like that.
And so for me, one of my biggest fears in starting this project was something stupid is going to end this.
Like I'm going to, you know, be going pee outside my tent in the middle of the night and, you know, trip over a rock and that's going to be it.
So fortunately, none of that happened.
I think that's the underappreciated truth in any of these amazing adventures that people undertake.
You know, it's easy, like you said, to point at, you know, the big scary things, but it's the little things like making sure you have clean underwear.
Like you get a rash or, you know, like stupid tiny little stuff that can really just derail the entire thing because you got a blister or something like that.
No, I couldn't agree more.
And particularly just flying from place to place, country to country.
Just, you know, don't wash your hands one day after a meal and you know, that's it, you know,
you're, you're sick for two weeks and the record's over. So yeah, I really can't believe the, uh,
the resilience of the body and able to make it through this one all in one piece.
How many people have, have completed the Explorers Grand Slam?
So the most recent number I heard was just under 50. So something like 48 or
49 people have ever completed the Grand Slam. And only four of those have done it in under a
calendar year now. So very few, most of the people that do it, you know, it's an amazing
accomplishment. It's like a lifetime thing. Yeah, a lifetime thing. Yeah, you train one of these
expeditions, you come home, you rest, you dream and plan up the next one and then get after it so um yeah to do it all this quickly back to back to
back was uh i i even right now smiling thinking about it i can't really realize it actually
happened so and and of the people so there's so four have done it in a calendar year and then
obviously one other there's one person that did it in 190 whatever it was days were those expeditions that were backed by sponsorship dollar like sort of professionally
organized and and really conducted for the purpose of you know speed for lack of a better word to see
how quickly it could be achieved yeah so the record that i break broke was a guy named richard
parks a welsh guy and he definitely set
out uh with some sponsorship with the intention of setting the sort of the high bar uh for the
Explorers Grand Slam so he really you know went after it um and the other the other two are women
who have who've done it in under a year and again they they both were trying to break records when
they they did it um and I think they, both those women more were self-funded,
had money from other parts of their career
and other parts of their life.
But yeah, the people that have done it that quickly
have done it intentionally that quickly
to try to see sort of what the boundaries
and barriers are for this type of thing.
And I don't want to backtrack too much
over stuff we already talked about last time.
And in the intro, I'm sure I said this, but I'll say it again, you know, make sure that
you make a point of going and listen to our, listening to our initial conversation.
We go into your whole like sort of life story and backstory, professional triathlete, uh,
survivor of this crazy burn accident that almost resulted in you like losing your leg,
right?
Actually, you know, and being told you weren't going to walk again, going on to this incredible athletic career, and then this adventure that you just completed. I
mean, it's quite a remarkable story. So for the full biography, yeah, dial that one up.
But I think it would be worthwhile to kind of just explore your motivations behind this.
You know, what was it about this adventure that inspired you? Why did you want to do it? And, and, you know,
what were you looking at least on the, on the beginning side of this before you embarked upon
it? What were you looking to get out of it? Yeah. You know, for me, uh, like I said on this,
maybe the first podcast was that, you know, I'd gotten to a point in my athletic career
where it was amazing. You know, I had raced in 25 different countries,
six different continents as a professional triathlete, you know, had my fair share of success, but let's be honest, I also had my fair share of down moments, not great races. Any,
any athlete at any level knows it's not always good. Um, but things were looking, you know,
great in my career. I just come off a half Ironman win in 2014 at the end of 2014 and,
you know, feeling good about where my triathlon
was at. But it kind of hit me that, you know, I was kind of in a place where I felt I wanted to
do a project, um, that still, you know, quenched my thirst for endurance challenge,
pushing my own personal limits, but a little bit away from the traditional race course.
Um, and that had a greater purpose behind it.
You know, for me to combine my endurance athleticism with a charitable platform was a huge
draw for me in doing this project. So now, you know, we set ourselves the record, the goal to
set this world record. But the other goal we set ourself was to raise a million dollars towards
combating childhood obesity and doing some ton of outreach
effort in the school. So that was really my driving force behind this was to create, you know,
an inspirational campaign around, you know, getting kids excited about a window into the outdoors,
being active, being healthy. And our fundraising efforts are ongoing, but I really feel like with
the kids I've connected with so far, this has been a great metaphor for them to
sort of see. Right. And the charitable organization is Alliance for a Healthier Generation, which is
sort of an outpost of the Clinton Foundation. Is that correct? Yeah, that's right. So we have our
own small nonprofit called Beyond 72 for this project, but all of the charitable dollars that
we raise, 100%, none of it goes towards my climbing or anything like that.
That's all separate for sponsorship or whatever.
It goes 100% to kids' programs with the Alliance for a Healthier Generation.
So they're an amazing organization in the space.
They're impacting 20 million kids in 29,000 school districts or schools nationwide and just doing fantastic work.
So we're super proud to partner with them and support their efforts.
What kind of programs are they on?
So they really have three mainstays in their programs.
The number one is basically in-school programs.
So better physical education, better nutrition in the schools, which is fantastic.
It's not like we don't need that.
Right.
So that right just there is great work.
Second of all, of course, kids are only in school so many hours of the day.
So it's, you know, trying to figure out, well, what are kids doing at home
or can we get them involved in after-school programs that also, you know,
have that strong nutritional aspect instead of going home and, you know,
eating Oreo cookies or something and sitting in front of the TV,
getting kids running around and, you know, eating healthy.
So they have a great, great robust afterschool program efforts. Uh, and then the third
pillar is, uh, because of the, you know, interaction with the Clinton foundation and some of the larger
people involved, you know, with this project, um, they're able to sit down with, uh, some of the
large, you know, food and beverage companies. They don't take any money from food or beverage
because of the conflict of interest, of course, but they're able to have a voice at
the table. So, you know, they were able to get, uh, the food and beverage companies to reduce
calories and vending machines in schools by 90% voluntarily. Um, they were able to get apple
slices and happy meals instead of French fries, which, you know, God forbid. Yeah. It's, it's a,
it's a, it's a tiny step, but it's a step in a more positive direction than we've had. So, um, you know, I'm really, really great
to support an amazing organization. And I just think it's so important that kids, the next
generation grow up and live healthy lives, you know? Right. And in the wake of, of your adventure,
I know you were, didn't you visit I, cause I know from Snapchat, Snapchat, I know you were at the
Clinton foundation recently. Yes. Yeah. So we were in york last week now there um it's great so we're
continuing our charitable efforts until we reach that million dollar fundraising goal you know
we're rolling on our way but uh you know we still still have our work cut out for us for me going
away how is it how has it been going can you say how much you've raised or um i don't know i don't
have the exact number um there's still a couple uh corporate matching campaigns so the nike foundation was
very supportive of this project so nike all 20 000 of their employees they've done a corporate
matching dollar for dollar campaign so we still haven't gotten some of those numbers back in from
that um but uh no we still have our work cut out for us to reach that million dollar fundraising
goal but for us it was always a um not just the goal of while i'm climbing but even more so
important now that i'm back that i can share the story not only in the school kids which is not
fundraising efforts but it's outreach um and then i can also go share this story other places to you
know raise money um so it's uh it's an ongoing process that uh we'll continue to really commit
to over the next you know few months or even year, so you've already visited a bunch of schools.
Yeah, oh, it's amazing.
I visited a bunch of schools before I left,
kind of telling them what I was doing,
and they were excited to hear the stories.
But what was amazing is that some number of PE teachers and teachers in some of these schools
got really excited about this story
and started following along daily with their kids.
So I went back and spoke with some schools. Luckily I got back right before school got out of session, uh, and, uh, spoke to a
number of schools that had been following along every blog, every Snapchat, every Instagram. They
knew the whole story. They were super excited and inspired. So Jim's full of, you know, 500
elementary school kids, you know, it's just warmed my heart to hear what, you know, them, them sending
me videos during while I was out there saying, you know, you're just warmed my heart to hear what, you know, them, them sending me videos during
while I was out there saying, you know, you're climbing Everest, but let me tell you what my
Everest is. My Everest is to ride my bike to school every day. My Everest is to eat more fruits
and vegetables. One day I want to graduate from college because no one in my family has. And I
think if I live a healthy lifestyle, like I can get there. And it was just amazing to see the
smiles on their faces when I got back. And the truth is, is that,
you know, I was hoping to inspire them, but of course, you know, they surprised the heck out of
me. They were my inspiration. You know, I was out there, you know, climbing Mount Everest and didn't
think, you know, I was going to make it to the top or, you know, delayed at the North pole and
not knowing if it was anything was going to come together for us to work. And knowing that these
thousands of kids around the nation who are following along so closely were sending me all that love and positivity
definitely inspired me to keep going, no doubt. So I'm grateful to them rather than the other way
around. Super cool. Yeah. So are you into doing lots of schools? Like, are you open to that?
Yeah, absolutely. Elementary schools, high schools? Totally. That's a, you know, that's a big focus for us. Um, I should mention, cause I keep saying us, I was the only one climbing these
mountains, but I feel like I climbed them side by side with my partner, Jenna Bisa, my fiance.
Um, she's really been right over here. She's actually in the room with us right now. Um,
but we don't have her on the mic at least yet. I'll get her in here in a minute. Um, but no,
she's really been the rock behind this
whole thing. You know, she supported this project from day one, despite her own anxiety and fears
of me going off into these crazy places and has really been leading the charge with all of our
outreach efforts. You know, she's the executive director of our nonprofit and just working her
butt off and committed herself fully to this whole project as well. So just the media aspect of it was like a full-time job because as a subscriber to your
newsletter and like sort of absorbing all the content as it was unfolding, I was like, wow,
this is like a major, you know, it's like a broadcast channel. It's crazy. I mean, it's,
it's been so much work and yeah, it was, uh, it's been a grassroots effort from day one. It was,
you know, me and Jenna dreaming this up and just the two of us till I left. And then we brought on my cousin, Mariana Brady, to do some
of the social and some media stuff. But between just the three of us making this whole thing
happen and it's been a lot of work, but also a great joy. And so to answer your question about
the schools, yeah, absolutely. You know, once school is back in session in the fall, we're
trying to figure out how to do a more robust school tour and really get out there and spread this message.
All right, well, there's a lot of teachers and school administrators
and principals and PE teachers that listen to this show.
Please reach out.
Yeah, beyond72.com.
Hit us on the contact page or email either Colin at beyond72.com
or Jen at beyond72.com, and we'll respond.
Yeah, we're really excited about doing that.
I mean, when I was in high school and junior high,
they would bring people in to talk to us,
but nobody who had done the kind of things
that you had done.
So I would imagine like kids would be super thrilled
to like hear the stories.
Yeah, it's a tremendous joy for me.
I love being in the schools.
It's really amazing.
So let's hear some of these stories.
I wanted to-
We started with Everest and then we got like on this.
I wanna camp out on Everest first, just because
it's it's sort of dramatic. And and one of the things that was really interesting about it is,
you know, it didn't it didn't go it didn't go as planned. There were a lot of struggles here.
But you were sharing this on Snapchat, which is like, like, first of all, how are you even getting
like service to be able to get these Snapchats out and to see it unfold in real time
was really kind of something amazing and perhaps it might make sense to kind of set the stage
with how the calendar works with everest because it's a very compressed period of time where all
these people were trying to get up everest like what is it like it was it was open for the first
time in like two years right so suddenly everybody descends on Everest and it became like a Snapchat store there was a there was a category on Snapchat just for Everest
and you were like the primary focus of that and that was I don't know how long that was up there
yeah for a while yeah it was really cool um it's uh so basically yeah what you said about the
calendar so the last two years there have been some pretty serious tragedy on the mountain. In 2014, there was a massive avalanche in the Khumbu Icefall and 16 Sherpas died. And then
the climbing season was closed from that. And then in 2015, right around the same time period,
a year later, there was the massive avalanche in Nepal that not only closed the climbing season
on Everest, but of course, you know, devastated the country. I think nearly 10,000 people died
and a lot of economic devastation, of course, from the destruction of infrastructure and buildings. So
it's been a really tough couple of years in Nepal. And one of the things about visiting Nepal,
I went and did a training climb there before this project started. And just to see the resilience
and the desire to, they want people there. They want people, you know, the tourism and all of that is good for the economy.
And it's just an amazing country,
but definitely a country that's been through
its fair share of hardship recently.
And so this was the first time anyone was trying
to actually successfully summit Everest since 2013.
So it had been a good almost three years
since anyone had stood on the top of the world.
So that's kind of the context for Everest.
And Everest can only be climbed in basically the second two weeks of May,
but you need to be there for many weeks before to acclimate.
And how do you even get to make sure that you get to be one of those people?
Like, is there a selection process or a lottery?
It's not a lottery.
Basically, it's a fairly expensive
endeavor. And so, you know, the climbing permit alone on Everest is $11,000. And that goes pretty
much directly to the Nepalese government. And then all the various other, you know, odds and
ends on there really add up quickly. So it's expensive. That definitely makes it less people
able to go there. I'm, for me, fortunate to have amazing sponsors that could help support this project.
But there's more people sometimes, because of it's not capped, end up being there than probably should be there.
In fact, a lot of people...
So they don't cap it.
They don't cap it. And there's controversy around that.
On one hand, it's great because it's driving more people more people there more economic tourism dollars and that trickles down to just
trekking and all this sort of stuff but at the same time you've also got uh the problem of
overcrowding on the mountain which which we'll get to in a second and no vetting you know i'm sure
there's people going up who aren't quite ready to do that yeah absolutely you know it's a buck
big bucket list item for a lot of people. And, uh, unfortunately on that mountain, probably more than any mountain in the world,
there's a lot of ego, maybe some people that aren't so prepared and the stakes are truly
life and death. And so those combination of things, um, aren't, uh, the prettiest side of Everest. all right so you get to there's a series of base camps right that you have to like work your way
up towards yeah so through how this goes down so just to go back a little bit before that so the
north pole was the expedition just before ever Everest and the North pole is at sea
level. So, um, you know, for those who don't quite realize it out there, cause it's a crazy concept,
even me having been there, but it's, you're just walking around on the floating sea ice.
So you're literally on ice floating around the middle of the Arctic ocean. You're drifting
around. And when you arrive at the North pole, there's nothing there. It's just the same as the
rest of the ice. You're at sea level. I mean, you can see the ocean at sea level type of thing. I mean, you couldn't be closer to the sea than you
are at the North Pole. And so that's the opposite of what you need for Everest. Unfortunately, the
only time to be at the North Pole is as the Everest season is getting underway. And so most people
leave for Mount Everest on about April 1st. And I didn't even begin my expedition to the North Pole
until April 12th
because of a series of massive delays
that happened there with,
you have to fly into this ice runway
and it cracked and it was melting
and there's all these problems
probably related to climate change.
But basically-
So North Pole got pushed way back
because of this cracked runway situation.
Totally.
So it was already gonna be tight
if I had been to the North Pole
when I had planned leaving on April 4th as people are leaving for Kathmandu and Everest
Base Camp on April 1st. But now I don't even begin that till April 12th. So the anxiety building up
inside of me, every day you're not on Everest, every day you're not at altitude. The climbs I
had done previous to this were just basically literally draining out of my blood in terms of
acclimatization as I was basically going in the
wrong direction at this point. And that could be really a fatal decision driven out of expediency
and ego. It doesn't matter. I'm fit. I'm young. I'll be fine. Totally. That's why people die.
And even doctors in base camp on Everest will tell you more often than not, the people that
they find getting into trouble are young, fit people because they can push a little harder or think oh I'm fine it's not going to
happen to me or whatever and those are the people that ascend too quickly get themselves into
trouble and eventually succumb to severe altitude sickness and maybe even die so of course I'm
very aware of that as I'm going to Everest base camp 12 you're losing 12 days of acclimatization. Totally.
So I arrived to Everest base camp,
which is at 17,000 feet on April 27th.
Literally the last person to arrive to base camp
in all of Everest base camp.
And there's a good, you know,
maybe three, 400 climbers in Everest base camp.
So to be the last person showing up like,
hey guys, like I'm ready to climb this mountain.
And everyone's like, we've been here a month.
Like, what do you think you are?
I was scared.
I mean, I was legitimately scared.
I was worried.
You know, I tried to just be-
Do you completely lose that acclimatization
that you had gained from those previous ascents?
Or can you, because you sort of like
when you taper off from training,
but you can kind of build back up more quickly
because that fitness is there.
Is it similar with acclimatization
or have you completely lost it
and you're at point zero with that?
I think the science would point towards
that you lose it within the two or three week period
of being at sea level.
And on the first two thirds of the project, actually we had our
own hiccups on those pieces, but we got through it actually pretty quickly. So I finished Mount
Elbrus on March 10th, which was the last time I was at altitude before basically being at Everest
Base Camp on April 27th. So we were super stoked to be like cranking out the first ones, but actually
almost would have been better if I didn't get to the summit of Mount Elbrus until right before the North Pole. And then the North Pole wouldn't
have had such a great impact. So it was kind of compounding in that way, which was tough.
But yeah, Everest base camp is at 17,000 feet, just over 17,000 feet. And the way Everest is
climbed is there's four camps higher, progressively higher than so you know simple names camp one camp two camp three camp four um and you usually go up on the mountain
what i did was to go up to the mountain and touch camp three um come all the way back down to base
camp in a series of days that took about a week get your body to sleeping up high come back down
and then rest a little bit at base camp and then set out for the summit. Most people do what they call rotations on the mountain like that two or three times, but I only
had enough time to do it once because even though I arrived late, it's not like I can summit any
later than the rest of the people. There's a couple of very specific summit windows that happened.
That's when people climb the mountain and then the season's over, closed until the next year
because of the monsoons come and it's too much wind and too much precipitation.
So the people that have been there for a month, what do they do all day? I mean,
they have to, they're going to go up to the next camp and touch it and walk back,
but they only are probably doing that a couple of times, right? What are they doing the rest of the
time? Yeah. So when you're up on the higher mountain, it's pretty intense because you're
climbing, you're tired, your body's pretty trash from the altitude, all that sort of stuff.
But to your question looping back now about Snapchat is there's actually Wi-Fi at Everest
Base Camp, which is crazy to me because as a kid who explored a lot of outdoor areas
when I was a kid, when you're in the outdoors, you're camping, you're just like, you should
be like out there.
Right.
And on Everest, even more so than any
other mountain that i climbed for this project like there's literally just straight up like
pretty decent wi-fi at everest base camp amazing um you like stream netflix and stuff it's not
quite on that level but it's certainly enough to like upload a snap oh for sure you can upload a
snap you can you know send little videos post to facebook whatever so um for tourism yeah but
um the cool thing about it with that was you know with this whole project particularly with the
inspiration behind inspiring kids is i think it's harder to tell this story by saying i'm gonna go
do this come back six months later and say hey i did this let me tell you the story of it and maybe
a snapshot or yeah a a slideshow right something like
that but what was great was that we realized that when we set out to do this there was going to be
a tremendous amount of setbacks like if there was it would be impossible for something this
ridiculous to just like go smoothly and so we knew hey if we just tell this story succeed or
fail in the long run there, there's an exciting narrative about
perseverance, the ups and downs, setbacks, getting through those. Of course, when I was experiencing
those setbacks for real, I wasn't so excited about the whole process. So to be able to share that in
real time. So not only the Wi-Fi and Basecamp, of course, helped doing this, but I had a sat phone,
I had a sat modem where I could send, it would take me 20 minutes to send one image. You know, it's not
like fan, that's not like proper wifi, but I could still send a photo. Hey, I'm at the North Pole,
Hammond, Antarctica doing this. This is how I'm feeling, you know, blogs and all that sort of
stuff to tell this story in real time. And then, uh, once we got to Everest and there was even
more wifi and stuff, we started using a Snapchat as a platform, which honestly was, you know,
I felt very old in trying to learn that medium. I felt like it was the first time technology was
like passing me by. Yeah. Listen, I'm a lot older than you. I figured it out. I think you can figure
it out. So I figured it out thanks to my 24-year-old cousin who was helping me get through
it. But once I figured it out, I was like, this is amazing. It's such a cool way to just share this story. Um, and you know, to actually really show
people like, this is what it's like to be, you know, on Mount Everest. This is the day that I'm
doing. This is what I'm eating today. Here's the cook tent. Here's the people I'm with. Um,
it was just really awesome. So to come back and, you know, share stories with people that were
following along, it's amazing that they're like, Oh yeah, I loved when you showed this or that,
or you look so tired on this day, or this was so, so much elation,
just the joys, the ups and downs. And to be able to really share that fabric in a really kind of
unfiltered way, it was super cool. Very cool. So you, uh, so there's one day that you wait,
you're up at camp, was it four? And then you're going to, today's the day that you're going to
make your summit attempt, right? Yeah. So I basically got
word that there looked like there was a weather window opening up. Um, so I was at base camp at
this point. Usually people climb to each camp, one camp at a time, or sometimes they'll skip camp one.
Um, I was in camp two, but the weather window looked like it was only going to be two days long.
So, um, I was climbing with just myself, uh, a Sherpa, Pasang Bodhi, an incredibly strong climber who I had met in Nepal the year before.
So just the two of us, we were able to make some decisions kind of a little more loose and on the
fly than a typical larger expedition would with guides and tons of Sherpas and the whole thing.
Um, so we decided, Hey, let's try to get this weather window. Um, but what's going to
take is to go from straight from camp to directly to camp four. So basically skipping an entire day
of sleep and rest. And, um, the main feature between those two is something called the Loti
face, which is basically this 5,000 foot, you know, snow and ice, very pretty steep slope,
uh, that gets you up to camp four. It was such a memorable day, feeling great. The
sun was actually out. It's, believe it or not, people don't quite realize this about Everest,
but you know, it's crazy cold there at times. Like you can't have a single piece of skin exposed
type of cold frostbite, obviously, you know, it's a huge problem up there, but sometimes it's super
hot. Like I'm climbing up the Lhotse face in face in this day there's no there's no wind at
this point the sun's out i'm wearing like just a base layer and like kind of sweating a little bit
which is crazy yeah from the footage it did look like it was really the this the blue sky was so
vivid you know yeah i mean when it's clear there and obviously you're kind of just in this big snow
basin that just the reflection off the light really just warms you up kind of like a little
greenhouse effect or something like that so then we got over this section which is sort of the last really steep
and challenging section before camp four uh called the geneva spur and to both of our very big
surprise we just get knocked by 50 mile per hour winds just right in the face we're like and this
is right we're about to set up our tent basically to get ready for our summit bid the next, you know, few hours later, really you leave in the middle of the night. So
just a short rest. And we get there quickly go from wearing our base layers to our biggest down
coats, our biggest, you know, down mittens, like all this sort of stuff. I actually ended up getting
a little tiny piece of frostbite on my cheek, just not bad, but just like kind of a wind chap,
you know, cold, cold injury there. Totally was fine after a few days, but enough to realize like, Hey,
we're in a tough, bad situation here. It took us two hours just to set up our tent, uh, in that
wind at the South call. And we pretty quickly realized we called back down to base camp where
they have the, the weather reports and this, they're like hey guys the weather window's closed it turned the weather on the summit's only getting worse it's going to
be 50 60 70 mile per hours up there it's a no-go um and at that point so much disappointment really
just the physical effort to get up there you know i'm getting nearing the end of this challenge so
i've been going for over 100 days at this point you know working chipping away at this you know grand
slam goal and to basically look at the face it's crazy when you're at camp four the summit of
Everest looks close it's 3,000 feet higher still but like it you can kind of see the whole route
and you're like that's the summit of Everest like it's right there like you know, I saw the footage in which you said that I was looking at,
I was like, doesn't look that close. It looks like, I think the way, the reason I think it
looks close is when you climb a smaller mountain, like Mount Hood, which is the mountain in my
backyard, basically in Portland, Oregon, it's a 5,500 foot vertical gain on the, on the summit
day. When you, you know, you climb it from your car in a parking lot
and climb up to the top, but the top's 11,000 feet.
So altitude's not really a big issue.
So in my mind, I'm thinking,
oh, it's only half the distance of a climb
that I've done many, many times in my life.
It doesn't look close in terms of close, close,
but it looks like very attainable.
It's not, I mean, Everest is this thing
I've dreamed about as a kid my whole life and thought about and whatever and you're like
oh i'm standing in a place where i can actually just like see the top like it's there and then
to be realized that there's no way that i'm sure that that drives a lot of bad decisions totally
well i think that's the biggest thing is that when you try to put that into the framework like I just did by comparing it to something that I've done a bunch of times, it's a very unfair comparison.
Because when you're at that altitude, even using supplemental oxygen like I was, you're taking, you know, one step and you're taking a few breaths and then you're taking another step and that's moving fast.
If you're really slowing down, you're taking one step, waiting a minute before you're taking your next step. So nothing's close, you know, when you're
walking. I think there's one funny clip that I saw, I don't know if we've posted it anywhere,
but it was me approaching camp three. So this is still only at, only at, you know, 24,000 feet
rather than the summit's 29,000 feet. And in the photo, I'm literally look like I'm about to walk
into the tents that are right there.
And I say in the clip, I'm like,
those tents may look close,
but it's going to take me a good 10 or 15 minutes to get there.
And it'd be the equivalent of like walking across your living room.
But like, you're moving slow.
Like, it's hard to realize how slow slow is
until you're up that high.
So when the weather turned and you were told it was a no-go,
did you still camp there that night? Or did you just immediately start going back? Yeah, so we had that high. So when the weather turned and you were told it was a no-go, did you still camp there
that night or did you just immediately start going back? Yeah. So we had that discussion,
Pasang Bodhi and I had that discussion and the truth was it was about to get dark. The Lhotse
face can be a pretty dangerous place. We'd already pushed super hard to go from camp two to camp four.
So we retired and it made sense, even though we knew we were going down to, you know, hunker down
in our tent, basically just get abused
with the wind slapping away at the nylon. Um, and then, you know, wake up the next morning early
and get out of there. So that's what we did. We spent the night there, um, on bottled oxygen
overnight and then descended. So the disappointment for me had so much to do with, usually you go to
camp four, that's your summit attempt. You either make the summit, you don't make the summit and that's over for a number of reasons. You know, obviously
fatigue, you know, being up that high is really hard in the body. I mean, they call it the death
zone for a reason. Like your body is not meant to be up that high. And then there's the whole
logistics of, well, you just use some of your bottled oxygen. And that's part of the reason
why Everest is very expensive is the logistics of literally carrying these things up there and how do you get them there and all this sort of stuff.
So you've kind of burned a bit of your fuel, both in your body as well as the actual fuel
and the oxygen that's going to get you to the summit.
And so going back down that day, there was a lot of doubt like, is this it?
Am I going to somehow figure out logistically, you know, financially and more than anything,
physically a way to, you know, make another shot at the summit?
So how do you make that decision?
I mean, did you have enough?
Obviously, you had enough bottled oxygen or did you have to have more brought up or how
did that work?
What ended up happening is I was using Adventure Consultants, which is one of the sort of
predominant guiding companies in the world.
They were actually, if you've seen the Everest movie, it was the guiding company, you know,
in that story, which is a tragedy.
Immediately when I started, he said that.
But Guy Cotter, who bought the company after that accident in 1996, is a good friend of
mine, incredibly, you know, famous climber and just a great guy all around. He basically said,
you know, I know you need logistics on this mountain. There's no way you don't climb Everest
by yourself. And you don't, like I said, I was climbing with one other Sherpa, but you don't
even climb Everest with just, you know, one Sherpa. There's so much more that goes into it
from the logistics of literally getting in Nepal and being on a climbing permit, which is not an
easy thing to secure to having a base camp cook and a chef
and making sure food is carried up and all this other stuff.
There's a lot of other people working in the background
to make a summit attempt happen.
Unfortunately, so they have their large main guided group.
And ultimately, they got four of those people to the summit,
all the people who were able to attempt the summit.
But their group started out at eight and progressively over the climb, over the duration of two months being there, series of things happened to some of those other climbers and they had to be evacuated from just sickness or fatigue or whatnot.
excess, um, store of oxygen essentially, which again is to the detriment of those who unfortunately didn't make it to the summit, but was a benefit for me because I had all those people been healthy
and in place and ready to go. There literally would not have been enough oxygen for me to make
a second attempt. So there were a couple of fatalities, uh, during this window. Did you
get to know any of these people that ended up unfortunately
passing away no um i did not um i my my closest uh touch to that was when i was climbing in nepal
training for everest a guy who i knew did pass away on that climb um which was definitely my
first sort of touch with that in my climbing career and definitely emphasize how serious it can be out there.
But on my actual summit day, so a few, two days, three days later, another weather window opened
up. I was down at camp two trying to recover. I was exhausted, but figured, hey, they're giving
me another shot. They're saying there's enough oxygen in place. I got to give this one more go.
I put my whole life into this project and really eager to complete it. That's another one
of those decisions that could be fatal. Totally. And, you know, Jenna and I had some long conversations
about that. She's like, are you really ready? Like, are you, I mean, are you really physically
able to do this? Because so many people use all their energy going up to the summit. Um, but as a,
a famous guide in the Himalaya,
Russell Price often says is that the summit is really only halfway. You know, you got to get
yourself all the way back down until you can really call that a successful expedition. Um,
and so, you know, I really checked in with myself to see if I was, I was ready, willing and able
to take that, you know, take that on. And I did, you know, I got back up to
camp four again, actually got, again, gotten a little windstorm halfway up, had to kind of delay
a day and then get to camp four and eventually make it to the summit. We can talk about that
in more color in a second, but, you know, two people on the same day that I summited,
unfortunately did lose their lives on the descent due to high altitude sickness. And,
you know, I didn't know them and didn't really encounter them while I was climbing,
didn't realize that was happening. But to come down on the backside of that when you're, you know, excited and wanting to celebrate,
you know, your personal success and realize that there was people out there on the same day
in the exact same conditions that I was that lost their lives on that day really
puts the the whole sort of risk of it all into perspective it's so intense yeah yeah wow so so
you don't find that information out obviously until you get back down to whatever camp right
probably four but like yeah camp so I went to camp a lot of people go to camp four on the descent
I went to camp four but it's also camp 4 is known for people having had summited, coming back, going to sleep and never waking up again.
You know, you're still at 26,000 feet at Camp 4.
And although you feel like you're back in the safety of a camp, you know, you're still up high.
You're still on bottled oxygen if you're staying there.
And so I said to myself, I basically sat in my tent for a couple hours, called home to Jenna actually. And I was like, I am so tired right now, but I'm going to summon
the energy to get myself down the low T face back to camp two, where I can take off this oxygen mask
and be at the relative lower altitude of 21,000 feet. So it was, you know, I left for the summit
at 11 PM and it wasn't until about 7 PM the following day that I was back down at camp two. So an incredibly long day. But for me, I'm fortunate that I did that. Not that
I was showing any signs of, you know, slipping into, you know, the death or anything, you know,
bad happening to me, but it is in camp four that night when the people did pass away.
Wow. And so the actual summit day, the weather cleared, you had decent weather to get
up there. Did you have trouble with the final stage? Yeah, yes and no. The weather actually
wasn't calling for great conditions that day. It was good enough that a lot of people were in
position, but because there had been these delays, like my first thwarted attempt and whatever, there was about 200 people, uh, trying to summit that day, which is crazy. I mean,
that's like 200 people. So it's like a, it's literally like the whole mountain basically
down the mountain. Yeah. It's crazy. And there's one rope. Um, and that day turned out to be
by far the biggest summit day that had happened on Everest in many, many years.
You know, like I said, I think it was 120 Sherpas and 80, you know, Western climbers
summited that day. Uh, you know, the numbers might be exact, but you just think it's you
and the Sherpa and there's no one else around. And that's how it would have been. Had I made
the first summit attempt, there was only a couple of teams into position because, but then after
sort of these progressive delays, a number of teams kind of caught up or got, had been delayed,
you know, it kind of, everyone ended up there on that day. And the truth was the weather was
calling that night for, you know, minus, you know, I think it was minus 30 ambient temperature,
but with 30, 40 mile per hour gusts, which takes the wind chill to somewhere like ridiculous,
negative 60 or negative 70 or something like that. And that's, you know, that's a scary amount of cold. Especially when
you're up at really high altitude, what keeps you warm is oxygen. And so the lack of oxygen,
not only make, you know, minus 40 and minus 50, minus 60 is like unfathomably cold no matter what,
but then, you know, add the fact that your body's also suffering to stay warm
because of the lack of oxygen that's like ridiculously cold and so there was I actually
called Jenna from camp four because we just kind of kept checking in with one another
and she was really my rock through this whole time and I said to her I said you know I'm scared like
I'm I'm really scared to go up there because I think people are probably going to die today. But if not,
you know, not be so fatalistic, people are definitely going to get frostbite in these
conditions. And I've been really hurt before, you know, you mentioned not, you know, not knowing if
I'd ever be able to walk again normally and like losing a toe, losing a finger. I mean, you hear
people out there go, oh, it'd be worth it to me to get to the summit if I lost a pinky. And I mean,
to me, I'm just like, that's crazy. Like I'm not trying to like injure
myself permanently. And so just that fear, you know, it builds up in your mind. And to Jenna's
credit, she'll admit now that she was probably more scared than even I was. And certainly her
and my mom sitting there, you know, taking this phone call, we're incredibly scared, but
she was, she was amazing. You know. She told me what I needed to hear in
that moment was she said, Colin, people are going to summit Mount Everest today. You have trained
so hard for this. You have put so much time and energy into this. There's no reason you can't be
one of those people today. Go out there and achieve your dreams. Yeah, it takes a strong
person to say that absolutely when
i i know in all truth what she wanted was to say people are going to get hurt out there today people
are going to die out there today like go down what do you why are you there like get out of there
you know and so it's i and yet had something happen to you you know right for her to have to
live with that that final push right so it was a very intense summit day to give some levity to the situation.
I'll tell this story, which is I'm climbing pretty well the first half of the day. I actually left
at 11 p.m., which I know now is, back in the day, not that long ago, is on the earlier side of
things. But these days, there's all this cat and mouse game when it gets crowded up there of, well, I'm going to go earlier. Well, I'm going to go earlier. Well,
I'm going to go earlier. People started leaving for the summit 6 PM, 7 PM. The sun hasn't even
come down yet. And I'm thinking if it's going to be that cold, the last place I want to be
is on the summit at 2 AM when A, I don't even get to see this epic view that I've,
I think earned, but it's just going to be so cold. And so Pasang Bodhi and I
elected to leave at 11 p.m. And I guess sticking with the theme of being the last person arrived
at base camp, I was also the very last person of 200 people to leave camp four for the summit.
And so we look up and there's just a stream of headlamps in front of us. And so we make the
decision about halfway up the route,
you know, 1500 feet or so, 8,400 meters is a place called the balcony up until that fate up
until there. It's a large snow slope. It's fairly steep. Um, but given the snow conditions, we felt
comfortable climbing pretty much not being connected to the rope. Um, and so we, the benefit
of doing that of course, is you're not stuck in
this traffic jam. So we sort of walked beside the traffic jam and passed what I would estimate to be
a hundred or so climbers, um, up to that point. So we at least got ourself back into the middle
of the pack, if you will. Um, that's so insane. It's crazy. I mean, it's literally the last place
you'd think you'd find a traffic jam, but that's the reality up there. But beyond the balcony, it actually gets pretty steep,
pretty exposed on, you know, on right and left side. So sort of going around the standard route
becomes very dangerous. We had been moving so quickly and that's a relative term, so quickly,
but quicker than the other people out there and not stuck in this traffic jam the first half that
I actually wasn't even wearing my warmest jacket at this point. I elected to wear sort of a two-piece
down suit. A lot of people have seen photos of people wearing one-piece down suit, which is a
little more common, but the two-piece gives you a little more versatility. And finally, we get to a
section where we're behind, we realize we're stuck in this traffic jam, we're clipped onto the rope
and we're not unclipping until we get to the summit, basically. Really hard to pass in the next few hours. And I'm at
a standstill. It's 4 a.m. It's the kind of the darkest, coldest hour of the day. The wind's
starting to kick up. And I think, man, I better like put on my warmest jacket now and kind of
settle into this pace. And once you stop moving, of course, you start getting a lot colder. So
I take my gloves off to put on my biggest jacket and I look down and my right hand is
completely black.
Like, no way.
Black.
Black is black.
But you didn't, you weren't even aware?
Was completely unaware of the situation.
And I'm like going, oh my God, like maybe it's the oxygen is like, so like I'm feeling
like I'm fit, but clearly I'm not
realizing how cold it is out here. I'm not in touch with my body and my senses, which is like
a really weird feeling for me. I'm nearing 28,000, you know, 27,500 feet at this point. I'm way higher
than I've ever been. And I'm just going, what's going on here? And I freak out and I look down
and this isn't like a little bit of frost, but I'm thinking like my right hand is gone, like gone.
down, I look down and this isn't like a little bit of frost, but I'm thinking like my right hand is gone, like gone. Like I will be losing this hand for sure. And all the emotions go through me.
You know, is Jenna going to still love me when I get down here from here? You know, what are people
going to think? Like, oh my gosh. And strangely, and also the weird psychology of all this,
I've got foot warmers in my boots, electric foot warmers, and they actually get
quite hot. But I think, well, I'm not, I can't look at my toes, but if my hands look like this,
what do my feet look like? So I turn those up to the absolute maximum level thinking, well,
at least I'm not going to lose my toes if I'm going to lose my hand. And so I actually continue
upward. Are you able to use your hand? Is it functioning? So that's the weird thing is that
my hand is working like perfectly fine.
But when I was severely burned in Thailand, it was mostly my legs.
After I was in the hospital for 24 hours, I didn't take a single step for three months, basically.
Not even just to walk to, you know, the bathroom one step away from my hospital bed.
And so I think to myself, but I walked into the hospital when I was burned.
And so I think to myself, maybe it's the same.
There's just like the adrenaline's going 24 hours.
My hand's going to work so I can maybe get up and down the mountain.
But after that, like my hand's frozen off, it's gone.
And so I'm really scared at this point, obviously.
But maybe it tells you something about the crazy psychology in my mind.
I say, well, at least I'm going to get the summit out of this.
If I'm going to lose my hand, it'd be, I'm going to have to go home with no hand and no summit would be even worse than
going home with no hand. I've already lost it, you know? So I keep going for a little while longer
and I'm obviously kind of spiraling into a very negative headspace of just kind of that depression
trying to assimilate this into my consciousness as well as continue to climb up this ridiculously
hard mountain. And the sun finally comes up. It's
maybe 6 a.m. now, and I have to change a few things around, and I think I'm actually switching
an oxygen bottle or something where I actually need the dexterity in my hands, because the
mittens you're wearing are just kind of big mittens. You can't do a whole lot with them.
So I take off my glove for the second time of the day, and I've been out there for maybe six or
seven hours at this point. I left at 11 a.m., so yeah, six a.m., seven hours probably.
And I look down, and I start hysterically laughing because I realize that my hand warmer inside of my glove
has broken open, and those are filled with charcoal
and copper filings that have basically dyed my hand black.
Wow.
Oh, my God.
What, like a total mindfuck.
It's crazy.
So I'm going,
oh, my hand's back, my hand's back.
I'm going to be fine.
And that was, you know,
about only 30 minutes or so below the summit.
So I kind of have this kind of come out of this like dark place,
emotional upswing of realizing I haven't frozen off my hand.
When you first saw it and it was black, did you show your Sherpa?
Crazy enough, I didn't show it to Pasang for a couple of reasons.
I mean, one is I didn't want to turn around.
And the other was he was an incredibly strong climber, like just an amazing climber.
Him and I got on extremely well
like I couldn't have asked for a better partner but there is a little bit of a language barrier
a little bit of a cultural difference neither of our minds are working great at that altitude
anyways it's dark like it's weird to say this but like the communication at that level even with
a partner who would be of the same culture as you, it's pretty hard.
Like the wind's blowing.
You've got this oxygen mask on.
Like it's not an easy, it's not just like, hey, let's have like a conversation and like talk through the pros and cons of this.
Like what you would do in a sort of normal circumstance.
So yeah, he had no idea.
So when I was like fist pumping, like my hand is back.
He's like looking at me like, what the hell is this crazy guy doing?
We're not there yet. Yeah, exactly. I was like fist pumping like my hand is back he's like looking at me like what the hell is this crazy so what is the elation like when you reach the summit how long do you hang out up there like
what is what is that all about yeah you know I was on the summit of everest um for i think 30 or 45 minutes which is which is a long amount of time i kind of thought
one minute would be cool with like a selfie or something and um right as we got to the summit
believe it or not the wind died down a little bit the sun was out you know i was happy to not be up
there at 2 30 in the morning actually a couple, met a guy, the first guy who summited on the day,
and he was in the hospital in Kathmandu
with severe frostbite on his toes
because he got there up in the dark
and tried to wait around for the sunrise.
And you just can't be up there that long.
But it was pretty nice when I was up there.
I was able to get my GoPro out.
Actually, my GoPro clip, I'm not sure I've posted it yet,
but it's pretty hilarious.
And I pull it out and I go,
I'm on the summit of... And I literally have to pull my oxygen mask back up to be like, okay, let me try that again.
I'm on the summit of Everest because I literally, it was like that little, I try to pull my mask off and there's just no air up there.
But it was just an incredible feeling to be up there.
You know, really just something I've dreamed about my entire life, a really special moment and uh you know something i definitely won't forget and uh
going back to the social media conversation i did manage to what i'm told is the very first
snapchat from the actual summit of everest so uh that was always have that very first yeah i've
got that two world records doesn't matter but i'm still the first snapchatter no matter what evan from snapchat should have reached out to you after that that's like a
landmark thing yeah you actually like broadcast uh you know a video clip from the summit yeah
yeah so that was super cool but that just also goes to show um the way it was up there i mean
to get your iphone out and you have to need your direct skin contact to use it. Um, you got to keep
all your electronics basically in your inner layers to, uh, stay warm, uh, to keep the batteries warm.
But, you know, I was able to pull it out and take my glove off for the seven seconds or so that have
the clip I took. And yeah, I mean, it was cold and intense, but I actually was fortunate enough
to really enjoy the summit. Yeah. That's amazing, man. You know, I had i had uh i had this guy wim hof on the podcast
recently do you know this i'm familiar with yeah incredible so this dude apparently uh
he didn't summit everest but he climbed up to the death zone in just his shorts and no shirt so
it's insane after hearing what you're like and he's like uh everest is no big deal like he's sort of like
passing it off like this is not that big of a challenge yeah he didn't go all the way to the
summit but still he was i mean how high is the death the death zone 26 000 camp four that's
where i'm talking about yeah camp four in his shorts yeah it must have been a really nice day
like i was saying they can be warm there it can actually be incredibly warm there so i can picture
that but uh even more
impressive than that for what he's done i don't know so much about him but i do know that he's
swum in some extremely cold water i think i've seen some video of him swimming underneath like
the arctic ocean or like something like 66 meters under a meter of ice yeah in finland above the
arctic circle there you go like i've said that is insane to me because i mean you're a swimmer
i have a swimming background and even to this day after the thousands of times i've jumped into pools and lakes and things like
i do not like that first like cold feeling and so like to be the guy that like takes that to
such an extreme like my hat's off that's on a whole nother another level well it puts it into
perspective after hearing your story for sure yeah you can that. Yeah. All right, so of all of the, you know,
the seven summits, the two poles, was Everett,
I know, I want to talk about Mount Elbrus,
because you had some difficulty there.
Yeah.
But was Everett the biggest challenge,
or were there other places you found to be more difficult?
What was the lowest moment?
Yeah, I think that Ever if you if you compartmentalized
each one of the expeditions into their own expedition um it would be hard to not call
everest the toughest particularly in the context of arriving so late having to rush my acclimatization
and just being accumulated fatigue accumulated fatigue six months of right five months of you
know running around doing this totally so it's towards the end i'm shattered it was it was uh tough you know one of the
lower moments of the whole project actually came after the everest summit day um and uh bless her
heart i called jenna of course there's a lot of a lot of i called jenna i called jenna's in this
story but you can tell she really was was my rock all of this. Where is Jenna? I mean, Jenna's where?
In Portland?
Jenna's in Portland at this time.
She came a couple times throughout the course of the project.
She came to Australia with me and did Kosciuszko, which is a small hill.
She's actually climbed some pretty serious mountains in her day.
We got engaged at 19,000 feet in Ecuador on the top of a big mountain over there in the Andes.
Of course you did.
That was a couple
years ago. Um, but, uh, she, um, I, you know, I called her and she's running all the logistics
of this thing. You know, she's literally the one that's going like, and it's not simple logistics.
We're talking about planes landing on ice. We're talking about, you know, going to Antarctica,
one of the most remote place in the world. We're talking about, you know, to Antarctica one of the most remote places in the world we're talking about you know helicopters from West
Papua Indonesia I mean the logistics are
not you know your flight leaves at this
time yeah it took a year
and trying to figure out all this stuff how to do that but
I call her from camp 2 on Everest
to say hey I'm safe I'm back
all this good stuff and she
immediately says well congratulations
that's awesome well
this other world record is now in
play if you basically can get your butt on a plane to alaska you know tomorrow right
we're even aware of the other world record kind of a little bit like peripherally the seven summits
record but it definitely wasn't what i set out to do um and it wasn't until I was done with Everest that I could even look past Everest.
And so it was almost like they'd been tracking on it more at home.
And she's like, it's May 19th.
And if you can summit Denali by May 30th, you will have set this record.
And there's a lot of people that would argue that the Seven Summits record,
because it's been attempted and held by various prestigious mountaineers over the years,
is an even more coveted record than the Explorers Grand so um was like hey i got it and the guy who currently held the record
before me i know him and i actually had met him at the south pole at the very beginning of this
project and he had said to me he's a 65 year old guy he's games verne taos has climbed seven
summits more than anyone else 10 ever summits 55 to knowledge i mean just a legend legend guy
and he actually said to me,
I think you have a shot at my record. He said it right at the beginning. And I said, nah,
like I was like, nah, I'm doing the polls and there's no way. And then at the time,
rain doesn't go to work. Um, it's kind of like breaking the a hundred free world record on your
way to breaking the world record for the 200. Exactly. Exactly. Yeah. That never happens.
Right. Yeah. So it was amazing.
We said that, but so I call home, you know, here we are after this day I just described.
I calmed down the emotions, the highs, the lows, the summiting, thinking I freeze my
hand off the, you know, the, the second summit attempt, all these things happen.
I get back down fine in my tent and camp too.
It's the first time I've kind of let my guard down, even though you're not totally off the
mountain.
I'm like, I did it.
Like I summited Everest today and I called Jenna and she's like awesome job so
like I said if you can get on this helicopter that's leaving from base camp get you to Kathmandu
we could fly you you know via Dubai Seattle to Anchorage and get you to the you know on a bush
plane that would drop you off from the base of Denali, you know, this other record might
be in play. And I'm like, Jenna, I love you, sweetheart. But it literally just took me one
hour to take my boots off in my tent right now. That's how tired I am. Like climbing another
mountain tomorrow on the other side of the world. Yeah, she's like, yeah, exactly. It was kind of
one of those. So it uh a little bit of a tough
love moment but uh god thanks i'm thankful that she did that um you know i needed a little kick
in the pants and the extra motivation but um yeah i think that was those were some of the lower
moments of this project which are now in totality i'm incredibly proud of what i've accomplished um
but there were moments in this
project that I'd finish a summit or I'd get down from somewhere, you know, Everest certainly is,
you know, pretty iconic and epic, but even many of the other summits that were super important to me
where I wanted to just kind of breathe in that experience for a second, you know, go, hey,
I just climbed the tallest mountain in Europe. Like what a cool life experience. Or like,
I was standing at the North Pole today.
But instead it's like, yeah, you were standing at the North Pole today.
Now you've got to get on a flight and fly here and go to Everest.
And before I know it, like, I'm just switched on into this.
Right, like the whole purpose of doing it is at odds with the other purpose.
Totally.
The greater purpose, right?
So the reason that you, the thing that compels people towards these challenges
is the ability to you know be in the moment of that experience right and you're sort of deprived
of that yeah it's the greater goal and definitely deprived of the um moment you know i was happy in
the moment every time i made a summit or came back down safely whatever but immediately was
the planning for the next one or the next one, the next one.
And so those were also some of the lows.
It was right after some of the achievements along the way.
It was like, okay, but you're actually not really done.
Which is what I signed up for and what I've always wanted to do.
And it's amazing in totality.
But there were a few moments where I was like, can I just drink this one in for a second?
a few moments where i was like can i just drink this one in for a second um so does the does the fatigue accumulate to such an extent that by the time you're at denali it's it's a trudge or does
something like denali seem simple simplistic is the wrong word but you know more kind of
eminently doable in the wake of just having climbed Everest. Like the comparison, that like sense of
relativity where for other people, or maybe even you, had it been an isolated event to climb Denali
is a big thing. But given what had just occurred, you're like, okay, I'm just going to go bang out
this last thing. Yeah. You know, Denali is a serious mountain. It's not as if I had to do
Everest and then finish with Kilimanjaro,
not to diminish Kilimanjaro, but like there's not a lot of objective hazard on that mountain.
There's not snow, you know, all this sort of stuff. But Denali's a serious mountain. You know,
people die on Denali frequently, just as much as people die on Everest. Like there's serious
weather there. There's serious glacier. There's a, you know, arguably more objective hazard than
there is on Everest because there's not a fixed rope the whole route.
You know, all of these things.
Like Denali is a very serious mountain.
So then for you, the challenge is you got to get your head back in the game.
Totally.
And not take it for granted and not think that it's going to be a cakewalk.
Totally.
So, you know, Denali is, you know, a serious mountain.
And, you know, we're on a really limited time frame at this point.
So Denali, usually people were there for, you know, three weeks is like a reasonable timeframe at this point. So Denali, usually people were
there for, you know, three weeks is like a reasonable amount of time to think you could
climb Denali. And even then the summit success rate is usually something like 20, 30, 40%,
certainly less than well, less than 50% on Denali, um, which has to do with, you know,
just weather. And it's a tough mountain and it's super cold. It can be a lot colder than Everest
there, even though it's lower, but 20,000 foot mountain is still a 20,000 foot mountain. Like it's no joke, you know? And thankfully on this
final mountain, I was climbing with one of my dear childhood friends, a guy named Tucker Cunningham,
another friend of ours named Drew Pogie. And they went over to Denali, um, while I was still on
Everest. And because we knew that even not with the seven summits record,
but just with the overall record that I was going to be coming from Everest acclimatized and ready
to go up the mountain, weather permitting. And if they were going to be able to climb with me,
they needed to go and pre-acclimatize. So they had been on the mountain for about seven,
eight days, maybe could have been even 10 days by the time I got there. And, you know, they had actually established a couple of camps higher on the mountain,
which of course made it a bit easier for me. But we still arrive, you know, you get to the glacier,
the way Denali works is you actually, there's no road to the, you know, where you start the
trailhead or something like that. You actually have to take a bush plane in that flies you
to the base of the mountain on the Kilhutna Glacier. And you start at about 7,000 feet. And there's, again, just like Everest,
there's progressive camps higher. And so Drew stayed up at our 14,000 foot camp to kind of
hold down the fort. And Tucker came down and met me and we put on skis and skinned uphill up to
14,000. We spent one night getting there and then got to 14,000 where it was basically our base camp, more or less. And then we immediately get there and just get like lit up by a storm,
just absolutely hammered. And I'm so tired that so we've got, at this point we have two tents.
There's one kind of really small, technically a two person tent, but more like a one person tent
that I'm going to sleep in. And they've had their tent there for a while. That's a three-man tent that they're kind of
settled into. And in Alaska, you got to dig wind walls and kind of have a whole situation set up
around it. So first night we get there, this huge storm blows in and I say, hey guys, I'm pretty
tired, like whatever. And it's like 1 p.m. the following day and my tent is completely buried.
Like the tent poles are bending
like the snow is like touching my face and they're finally like colin colin are you in there and i
was like yeah what why and they're like you've been asleep for 15 hours you're like buried like
the wind has been like howling and like how could you possibly be asleep and then i'm like what oh
yeah man guys i've been asleep this whole time like Like, just like, that's how tired I was.
Like, I mean, I was in a huge snowstorm getting dumped on
and like in basically a little coffin of a tent.
And I was still just like, I'm so tired.
Like, it doesn't matter.
Let me sleep.
So does the weather clear?
And how long are you up there
before you can make your summit attempt?
So we're up there a couple of days
and it's like that for a couple of days.
And I mostly spend the time sleeping and just trying to get that little bit of recovery.
I mean, I was really exhausted from Everest and wasn't coming back.
You know, I'd been of all the climbing partnerships that I had throughout this project, I was, you know, often the strongest person, if certainly of an equal of anyone I climbed with.
And I was clearly not the strongest
person out there. And I had, you know, I said to both of them, I said, Hey guys, like I'm not my
full self. I'm not on full steam. I'm going to, you know, not need your help in terms of like
actually carrying me up this mountain, but you got to understand where I'm at right now. And we got
to be cognizant of that, you know, to make safe choices. But the seven summit record was looming
over our heads. and so we looked
at the weather forecast and it didn't look like the weather was getting any better before the sort
of time was expiring on the additional world record and so the sort of day of reckoning came
and we said well the record expires in two days the next day is definitely like horrible horrible
but today's like kind of horrible let's's see if we could give it a go.
And so-
Another potentially fatalistic decision.
Totally, totally.
And any of these decisions that I've described
in this podcast, I mean, you could look back
if they'd gone the wrong way.
You're not making that decision
based on an objective analysis of the weather and safety.
You're doing it based on a ticking clock.
Totally.
And I had this conversation with my family before I left.
As supportive as they are, of course, they had a reasonable amount of trepidation before I left.
And I said, hey, I promise that I'm going to make decisions on this trip in a vacuum,
the same way I would if I were climbing just in a day with you know a buddy to
try to get to the summit but you know always making I've turned around on tons of mountains
in my life tons you know I've not summited objectives like plenty because of way lesser
weather than I was facing and the truth is I'll be the first to admit like broke that rule I
definitely broke that promise for sure you broke that promise a lot yeah yeah and um you know it's
nice to sit here with a smile
on my face and say oh it worked out but that is you mean you're absolutely right that's when you
do make some wrong decisions and it can go wrong but um so much so that our partner uh drew pogey
who's an incredibly strong guy um said hey guys like it's not for me today like he's like he's a
great skier and that's what he loves to do.
And you're probably familiar with the type one, type two fun. He's like, I'm kind of a type one
guy. I want to ski down this mountain. There's no skiing that's happening. It's 50, 60 mile per
hour winds. Like that's, that's just off the books, not happening. And he's like walking up
there and that for the next 12 hours is just like not safe. And I'm not going. And so to his credit, actually, and I said this to
him afterwards, I said, you know, you probably, I mean, yeah, we summited, it worked out for us,
but like, you know, he probably did make, I mean, he made the right decision, I will say in terms
of safety. But he didn't try to talk you out of it. And, you know, so we made a plan. So Tucker
and I made a plan and we said,'s leave camp let's check in with each
other every you know 10 15 20 minutes just we were mostly worried about our fingers and toes because
it was it was ambient temperature minus 30 minus 40 wind chills up in the minus 60 minus 70 range
um so we were really worried about you know cold fingers and toes um and then just kind of checking
with the safety along the way you know we were camp, and normally Denali is climbed from 17,000 feet,
but there was no way we were going to be able to survive a night up higher from where we were.
And so we decided to actually go from the summit from 14,000 feet,
which makes the summit day twice as long as it normally is in adverse conditions.
And so we're walking out of 14 camp on the day.
And Denali is actually this time of year,
quite a crowded mountain, nowhere near like Everest,
but there's a fair few people trying to, you know,
finish the seven summits or just climb Denali.
It's just a very iconic mountain, you know,
tallest mountain in North America.
And so there's probably, by my estimation,
at least 50, maybe a hundred people in camp,
14 camp when we're there and we're walking out of
camp no one's going up the mountain no one's going down the mountain a couple people unzip like the
crack of their tent in this like 50 mile per hour winds it was like where are you guys going
we're like we're gonna try this summit and they're like literally laughing at us like get back in
your tent like you guys are messing around and we're like no we're
gonna see how we go um we actually in the first little bit you know got you know kind of blown
so hard that kind of down on hands and knees kind of knocked down on hands and knees putting a nice
ax into the snow and waiting for the gust to pass and then walking a little further and doing the
same thing so um it was pretty it was a really really really brutal day for sure.
Did the 100 people at 14,000-foot base camp know that you were on the precipice of breaking this record,
or were you just an anonymous climber to everybody?
There was a little bit of both.
There's an interesting wrinkle in this whole story,
which is by complete coincidence,
Vern Tejas, whose record I eventually did break,
was in 14 camp on this day. And so I had
seen him the day before. And like I said, we'd, we'd met each other at the South pole when this
whole thing started. And he was like, you're going to go for it. Like, kind of like, he was kind of
like not looking like great weather next couple of days. He knew there was, you got two days,
but he knew, oh, he'd absolutely knew. And so that was a, an interesting thing. And, uh, to
amazing credit of him,
he was the first person I saw when I returned
many hours later that day successful.
Oh my God, you can't script that.
If that was in a movie,
you'd be like, that's a false note.
That's ridiculous.
Yeah, that would never happen.
Yeah, and so, and for me,
he's someone I've always looked up to.
I mean, he's just a legend, like I said.
So to take a record that he had is just, uh, I'm humbled by that. And he couldn't
have been more graceful in it, just giving me a big hug and congratulating me on the achievement.
And so that was just to finish the project with that, you know, sort of that whole.
Right. Other than your buddy to see him as the first guy.
Totally. So, so one of the things that was special though is we were alone on the
mountain all day i mean you know usually you're climbing up there there's other people up there
um and we just had the mountain to ourselves because no one was stupid enough to leave their
tents um other than us um and it was a crazy summit day i mean i i describe it as the wheels
were really starting to fall off the bus like i was shattered tired pat had been for tucker who
was incredibly strong i actually a stanford swimmer um so he's you got that what year so he's one year older than me in school so he'd
been like 2005 from college interesting um so uh contemporary of i don't know like a jamie kramer
and matt mcdonald i don't know if you know like that era of guy yeah those names sound familiar
to me yeah so those guys you know trials do guys marcus rogan you know that sort of era yeah that era of guys um yeah hard to not know who he is interesting
well i'm sure you have you know eight million stories like this for every single one of the
expeditions and we you know it would be a 45 hour podcast to go through all of that episodically
um but i am interested in what happened on, it's Elbrus, right?
Mount Elbrus.
Yeah.
Where like your Sherpa basically abandoned you.
Like what happened?
Yeah.
So I just, first of all,
I want to just shout out to everyone out there
that Rich is really pulling out the,
Colin looks like a knucklehead
making bad, dangerous decision stories here.
I'm trying to get the dramatic notes here.
But we're really hitting the dramatic notes.
No, in truth, these are the most dramatic moments
let me just say
foundationally though that
it is kind of a beautiful thing
that you complete this
crazy adventure on Denali and that
you really had to work for it like if it had been
a super nice day and it was like a
breeze up there and it had been
totally mellow it almost doesn't
seem right like the fact that
you really were, the wheels were falling off the wagon and you were down on hands and knees and it
was not a good day and probably not a good idea to do it. And the fact that you persevered through
that, maybe not the smartest thing you ever did, but the fact that you made it and came out the
other side, there's, there's some poetry in that. And then to be able to have, have, you know, the guy whose record you
broke standing right there, like this is, that's, that's, that's quite something.
Yeah. It's incredible. And you know, it was definitely going through my mind those last
couple hours up to Nali. I mean, it wasn't really till we were on the summit ridge that we both
believed we were going to be on that summit. Cause it just kept being like, should we turn
around now? Should we, I mean, we asked ourselves that a hundred times that day from just how bad the
conditions were. Uh, the one thing to our advantage was the sun was out. So we weren't in like a white
out snow storm. It was just so much wind. Um, but you know, we get to the bottom of what's called
pig Hill, which is kind of the last big Hill before you're on the summit, you're at, you know,
19,700 feet at this point something like that and Tucker starts fist
pumping and he's in front of me and I literally the only thing going through my mind is how does
he have enough energy to fist pump right now like I'm I'm that on on the last step so it's like you
said you know it was going through my mind that whole time which is maybe this is what it takes
to truly break a record like this like if it had easy, like it never is going to come easy.
You're trying to do something
that's really never been done before.
And this is the price you pay.
Yeah, it'll deepen your appreciation for it over time.
For sure.
But yeah, Mount Elbrus.
So what happened on Mount Elbrus?
So Mount Elbrus is the tallest mountain in Europe.
It's in Russia, in the Caucasus.
Really, actually, for me, there was a lot of...
Is Russia in Europe? Yes. So the western part of me, there was a lot of... Is Russia in Europe?
Yes.
So the western part of Russia on the other side of the...
The western side of the Ural Mountains counts as the European continent.
There's all these rules governing this.
I didn't make this up.
So it's considered Europe.
That's interesting.
So it's considered Europe, yeah.
So, of course, if you're on the other side of the Ural Mountains,
you're considered in the Asian plate.
But on where Mount Elbrus is on the western part of Russia and the southwestern part of Russia is considered Europe.
So people often mistake the tallest mountain in Europe as Mont Blanc in France.
But it's actually Mount Elbrus, which is a good 4,000 feet taller than Mont Blanc.
So 18,500 foot mountain.
And Mount Elbrus is pretty much always climbed in summer.
So June, July. Um, but for me, and part of the way I was able to break the explorers grand slam
record by so much is because the guy whose record I broke climbed a Nali and then went to Russia
and climbed, uh, Mount Elbrus in July. And so instead I attempted it in early March, which is,
you know, winter in Russia comes down to schedule, you know, winter in Russia. Comes down to schedule.
You know?
The calendar.
Yeah.
Right, so nobody climbs it in winter.
People aren't climbing it, you know, in very few people.
November, right, is when you did it?
I did it in March, yes.
Oh, in March.
Sorry, I did March 10th was when I summited.
So we, I'm in Karsten's Pyramid before that, which is the opposite.
It's the only one that's, you know, actually, you know, Kilimanimanjaro is warm ish but there's still a little bit snow up there but
karsten's pyramid is in uh this will get you this is in indonesia which is of course uh politically
a part of asia but it is part of the austral asian continental plate yeah exactly so that is also why
you're climbing that is the tallest part in australia um but there's controversy so i actually climbed an eighth summit which was cosiasco in australia
so anyways because it's beyond seven two but you actually did 10 yes yes i actually did 10 but
that's because in australia there's two there's there's no controversy about what the other six
are but there's a controversy about what defines australia so i figured i'd just do them both and
do both exactly Exactly, exactly.
So one of those I did with Jenna
and the other is in this sort of rock climbing spire
at 16,000 feet in this deep jungles of Indonesia.
And so we finally get a helicopter pickup from there,
from the base camp.
And you're in a very, very remote part of the world.
You fly over the world's largest copper and gold mine,
which is just a crazy thing to see this ridiculous hole in the ground.
Really hard to put into words.
Anyways, we get to this small town of Tamika.
My climbing partner who I'm with, we look at the weather
because we're both going to go to Russia, and we go, oh, no.
The weather's good in Russia tomorrow,
and then the next two weeks are predicted for
even whether I wouldn't go out. And so we're talking a hundred mile per hour winds,
two feet of snow per day, like stupid bad storm is coming. Uh, cause our plan was to fly from
this mountain, go to Moscow for a couple of days, catch our breath and get ready to climb Mount
Elbrus. And so again, my lifeline, I call home to Jenna and I
say, Hey Jenna, uh, check the weather. It looks like you maybe try to figure out how to get me
there today. And so I literally get on a plane from this town, come down from a helicopter plane
from Tamika to Bali, Bali to Jakarta, Jakarta to Doha, Doha to Moscow, Moscow to five planes and
whatever. It's ridiculous.
The reason that's important is we get to, uh, the base of Mount Elbrus and I say to my partner,
I say, you know, we've been traveling for 48 hours straight. We have to leave for that climb in the middle of the night. You start that climb at two o'clock in the morning. Um, it's dark. I
don't know the route very well. And it's, you know, we're just shattered and tired.
And our plan had just been the two of us to climb it. Like we didn't feel like we needed a guide or
any of this sort of stuff, every, you know, competent enough to climb this mountain, no
problem. And just realized, you know what, like just out of safety, like let's get a local guy
here who's climbed this mountain a hundred times. And let's, you know, let's just
like have another set of eyes, another person here who knows this mountain given like where
we're at physically and emotionally. And so we make these arrangements with this, this Russian
guy named Sasha. And it seems like a totally legit guy has climbed, you know, like I said,
a hundred times a mountain, knows the mountain super well, big, strong, you know, Russian guy.
And so we're, you know, as you do do with climbing partners we're dividing up the group gear
because obviously you have your personal effects and you have the stuff that we're all going to
use at some point on the mountain and just kind of dividing the weight and he says oh i'll carry
the rope um which is one of the more heavy you know being pieces of group gear generally and
we're like okay great you carry the rope i'll carry this you'll carry that whatever so again
we're planning to ski down as much of this mountain as we can on the way down.
So again, we strap skins on to walk up the mountain.
And it's really cold night because it's winter.
It's not quite as cold as Everest and Denali I was talking about.
It's cold, cold enough that you just want to keep moving.
You know, you don't want to stand still for long and it's windy.
And so-
No traffic jam though.
No traffic jam.
We're out in
this just big black abyss completely you know alone and the first part of the mountain is not
particularly technical it's kind of a big big snow slope um that starts off and it gets a lot
more technical after that but um so we're kind of trudging along um i'm in the lead uh my other
partner's right behind me and you know i know, Sasha's third. And I look back
after about an hour and there's only one headlamp behind me, about a good, you know, 15, 20 feet
behind me, just out of sort of talking reach. And I look back and I say to my client, I'm like,
where, where's, where's Sasha? And she's like, um, what do you mean? She looks back,
Sasha and she's like um what do you mean she looks back assuming he's right behind her and it turns out uh there's no headlamp so at first we freak out because we're like oh my god like did something
happen to him like that's so weird you know all this sort of stuff but like there hasn't been any
terrain that would like make you think there was not like a cliff you could have fallen off of or
cravat you know there's no glacier there no crevassing and falling. We're just like, this is weird.
So we wait for a little while longer.
We're getting cold standing there.
No sign of him, no sign of him, no sign of him.
Turns out he turned around without saying anything to us.
But you couldn't have found that out until later, right?
Until you'd completed this or?
So we realized he wasn't there.
We didn't know why, but we realized he wasn't there.
So of course we were like worried the whole thing. Like, well, is he hurt? Is he this? Like, but then he turned
around. It doesn't seem like you could have gotten hurt where we were. So we're assuming he's fine,
but thinking he had just like turned around and like left us. Would have been totally fine for
us to climb this mountain, hadn't it been for the fact that he was carrying our rope.
Right.
So we have this, know conversation he turns around without
telling you you have no idea i mean there must have been a conversation like we got to go back
down and just make sure he didn't you know basically have a heart attack totally you know
we have that conversation but it just seems like really strange like it just doesn't like the
things don't add up there's a hut that we had left from, which is at the top of, um, you start sort of at these huts basically. Um, and
there's people who caretake the huts. So we actually called back down to the huts and said,
Hey, like if you see this guy, like you're, if you guys, they have like snowmobiles or snow cats
in the lower part of the mountain there, like maybe like know go find out but he's not here we don't know what to do all this sort of stuff
so it's just a weird situation like we can't figure it out but it's the middle of the night
in Russia the wind is like blowing in our face and like we basically said well if we're going up
we're going down it doesn't matter but like we can't stand here any longer like standing here
is what is like the most dangerous thing to do right now. We're freezing. And so we decide to continue onwards a little bit. So like I said,
okay, let's try this without a rope. We know we pretty much need a rope. So we're probably not
going to go, but let's, you know, continue onwards. And so we go, we go up a little bit
further on the mountain and it's, it's, it's fairly icy on this mountain. And there's a couple
other climbers who we had met and we elected to not do this. You can actually take a snowcat
about a thousand meters or 3000 feet higher than where the traditional starting point is. For us,
that didn't feel like the integrity of actually climbing the mountain. So we climbed from the hut,
but these people, although climbing slower than us at this point, were in front of us. We had talked to them, the guide, it was a Russian
guide, oh, I've climbed K2, oh, I've this, whatever. And they're on a part of the route that we think
is not the route. They're on the left, we think it's more to the right, but we're thinking, well,
this guy, again, another Russian guide out there with a ton of experience, and we're thinking, well,
they know better than we do. And so we follow in their footsteps.
We're still far away from them, but we follow in their footsteps.
And walking in their exact footsteps, I fall waist deep into a crevasse.
Oh, my God.
Unroped.
You're usually on a rope down a glacier for this exact reason,
that if you do, heaven forbid, fall into a crevasse,
your partner can pull you out with a rope.
And I'm waisty
thankfully not beyond my waist but in this slot little crevasse have to take my socks out anchor
myself pull myself out and at this point like i say nah like we're done we're done we're turning
around but of course it's weighing on me and us that there's this huge storm coming not a two or
three day storm but like this mountain is unclimbable for the next two weeks the clock's ticking i need to get to the north pole after this
what to do what to do but i'm still just too freaked out from the series of things that have
happened and it's just like this is no longer safe but we're in a really strange spot on the
mountain where it's actually particularly without a rope and being able to repel, which you would do with a rope if you had the rope, it was actually a little bit safer to
sort of go up and traverse. It's hard to describe if you're not looking at it, but it was safer to
go up and traverse to the right to like basically get to this ridge that then allows you a more
gentler descent, hopefully where you don't need to propel because it was so super icy where we were.
It wasn't the steepness. It was more just like how icy it was is why it was really dangerous to descend it's often easier
to go up than it is to go down basically and so we decide to continue up to this ridge which is
another sort of 15 to 20 to 30 minutes up yeah then you get to the then we get to the ridge we're
like and you see where this is going well i'm starting to feel good again there are so many
times that this probably should have gone the other way for you yes yes um and again i feel
like we're really pulling out these stories but i'm fine with it no it shows the adversity yeah
it uh yeah no there was a certainly a number of moments than the ones that i've described where
things are right on the edge.
You know, things were right on the borderline.
And never once did I feel, to be perfectly honest, that I was just doing something blatantly reckless.
Did I feel on this mountain that there was a lot more danger in climbing the mountain with a rope than without a rope?
Sure. But I've climbed many mountains solo, which implies climbing without a rope, that were of similar grades, you know, in the Cascades and whatnot.
And so it was still sort of just right, you know, just like anything, right on that boundary between comfort zone, not comfort zone, pushing just a little bit out of the comfort zone, which I think we would probably both agree inspires growth.
Versus going, you know, so crazy beyond that where it's just, you know, stupidity. So it's,
it has, this journey has been a true test of myself, my personality, understanding those limits,
pushing those limits, finding those limits. But there were several other times on this journey
where actually I did turn around and have to go, you know, on Everest at camp four, knew the wind was too bad, turned around, had to summon the ability to climb again.
Same thing happened climbing completely solo on Aconcagua.
I got up to about 20,000 feet, got caught out in some bad weather and turned around
and went all the way back down to base camp at 14,000 feet and summoned the energy to
climb again.
So there were, you know, prudent decisions made.
But when you're trying to set a record and you're trying to push the boundaries of what's
never been done, you're kind of on that edge the whole time.
Yeah. Objectivity becomes a sliding scale and you begin to rationalize and come up with arguments
for pushing forward, which I think brings up, you know, this subject of fear and your relationship
to fear. You know, I know in my experience of talking to Conrad Anker
and listening to interviews
with guys like Alex Honnold,
like they have a very interesting relationship
with fear and risk.
You know, Alex will tell you
that he's calculated all the risks
and what he's doing is rational in his mind.
So his definition, his personal definition,
you know, of objective risk is gonna be very different from the average human being.
So where do you think you fall on that spectrum?
Yeah, I mean, first and foremost, you know, Conrad Anker, Alex Honolder, and just a whole nother stratosphere of what they have accomplished and, you know, what they can do, particularly, you know, what Alex can do on big walls without ropes completely freestalling
stuff it's just completely different kind of climbing but what he does is insane it's insane
i mean i'll sit here right now and say that i mean that's crazy i i admire the heck out of it but
you know that's that is beyond my personal threshold um for that for sure i would hope so
and ability let's be clear about that as well um uh yeah, it is an interesting relationship because like you said,
I think that everyone, you know, we're using them as this very extreme example in this case,
something that I admittedly as far surpassed my comfort level. But most of the stories I described
would far surpass the comfort level of the next person. And so I think it is really in truth, the ability to know yourself,
know your own personal limits and be inspired to push beyond those limits. For me,
this entire project and its relationship to the successes and setbacks we've set along the way
are really a function of being an athlete and pushing my body since I was five years old.
A lot of people have asked me throughout the course of this,
what was the divergence in mountaineering all of a sudden after being a swimmer or being a triathlete?
What's the connection there?
And that mind-body connection as it relates to fear, as it relates to your own abilities,
your belief in yourself, all of that is something that I've been honing at a very high level for decades. And it's a special
gift or something that I've worked very hard for to be able to look within myself and ask myself,
can you still do this? Do you still believe you can do this? Is this the right thing?
And sure, some of these decisions and the stories we've, you know, I'm telling here with a smile on
my face are pushing those boundaries, but that comes from a lifetime of pushing those boundaries.
And I think that that's probably, you know, I'm not inside Alex Honnold's mind, but I imagine
that's what he's getting at when he's saying, I have climbed so
many rocks in my life and done so much this, and I know, you know, what I know I can do and can't
do in this, that he believes based on sort of empirical evidence of a life's work that he can
do this. And so he can tune out that fear because it's a really strength and inner belief in himself.
And I can relate to that in some regard. I think that's a really important point. It's very Malcolm Gladwell, 10,000 hours-esque,
I suppose. And essentially, kind of what you're saying is, it's not like you're,
unlike Alex Honnold, it's not like you were this crazy gifted climber from day one,
but you're somebody who has put in their 10,000 hours in
terms of, uh, you know, pushing your body and training like that. Your preparedness for this
began when you started waking up for mornings from practice when you were, you know, 14 or whatever,
you started doing double workouts, right? Like, and your experience of traveling the world as a
professional triathlete training for the Olympics, like all of these things, overcoming your injury to your legs,
all of these things inform your ability
to craft judgment in the moment of duress on that mountain.
Absolutely.
You're not some hedge fund trader
that woke up one day and had a bucket list thing
you wanted to check.
Totally.
And I think it's all interrelated and it's special to know your body and mind connection in that way um and it allows
you to you know push beyond perceived limits um but in a way that feels strangely controlled you
know it's this it's this interesting place um and certainly the mental capacity uh the mental
strength and endurance that i think this all took was, was far outweighed than, you know, far stronger than the physical
side of it really.
Um, and that piece of it, again, it's just a cultivation, you know, you, you've put in
your hours in the swimming pool as well as many other endurance, amazing endurance feats
you've accomplished in your life.
And, you know, people say like, well, what did you think about when you were dragging a hundred pound sled to the South pole
for a week and had no one to talk to? And you're like, let me tell you about staring at a black
line for four hours a day since I was, you know, six years old. Like you, you build that.
That's the, that's the real acclimatization. You know what I mean? It's not just getting
your heart and lungs ready for thin air. It's the mental, you know, drudgery of, you know, what that must entail for you.
Totally, totally.
And that, I mean, so many times on this, you know, I felt, you know, at least to this point
in my life, obviously this is an amazing, you know, accomplishment in my sort of whole
life of athleticism, but it's, it's a testament to that
entire life in athleticism. And it's also a testament to the numerous times that I've set
myself a goal and failed. It just straight up failed. Like I haven't come back an Olympic
champion. I haven't come back, you know, a world record holder in the hundred breaststroke, you
know, like, and those are things that I've tried to do over my life. And so it's amazing now to be sitting here at 31 years of age and be able to look you in the eye and say, Hey,
I just said two world records. Isn't that cool? But like, that's in a way you'd never imagined
that your athletic career, you know, absolutely. Absolutely. And, and to pick yourself up again,
after, you know, losing or getting knocked down again is, is tough, but you learn from it and
it makes you stronger for the next one what does it all mean to you what does it all mean to me um
there's there's certainly an interesting relationship um to what i take away from
my racing career um which is it's been such a privilege to experience this side by side with Jenna. Um, maybe for me,
um, a lot of my personal truth is having that balance in my life. Jenna and I are very different
people. She's a lot more calm and patient than I am. Um, very, you know, complimentary in a lot
of different ways. But, you know, when I look back on my racing career in triathlon, I don't even really remember so much the wins and the losses. But I remember, you know,
some silly taxi ride we took in Zimbabwe and the funny thing the guy said to us, you know,
it's these little pieces and the simple things, the fabric of our experience. And it's interesting
to have that parallel in this, in that we spent all this time not together. We didn't have the experience. We weren't looking through the same lens, the same we have in different aspects of our life. But we both, two years ago, committed fully to this process and playing our roles in that process. And, you know, for me, it was the guy training my body and mind to climb a bunch of
mountains faster than anyone's ever done. And for her, it was being the support network, the web,
the logistics coordinator, and not navigating the waters of all these various other things that go
into it. And learning and growing together throughout this process has been the most
special thing about it all, I think.
It's her turn now though, right? You're going to have to support her in doing something, right?
I think she's earned that. Jenna, are you here? Where is she? Come over here.
Yeah, get over here.
I want to hear from her a little bit.
I think we need Jenna on the mic.
I need a little Jenna perspective.
She's doing some work in the back. of perspective all right sit down there for a second i want to hear you know what this this
whole thing has meant to you and also like clearly you're the anchor in this whole thing like without
you this doesn't happen at all like behind the scenes you you like making basically you know
creating uh all of these opportunities right all the. I can't even begin to imagine.
Like I would think for something like this,
so vast and incomprehensible,
you would have a team of people
that know how to do all this kind of stuff
who would come in like some kind of crack advanced team
or something like that.
But you're the one literally who's booking
and crafting all the logistics behind the scenes, right?
Yeah, it's been a wild ride, absolutely.
I mean, of course, this never would have come into fruition at all
had it not been for Colin thinking up this crazy idea.
So I give him all the world of credit for putting himself out there
and really setting this massive goal.
But yeah, it was a bootstraps, learn on the fly,
really quick learning curve for so many things from how do
you brand a project to how do we fly you know calling from some of the most remote places in
the world to yeah like how do you know like i need a helicopter like who do you call like how does
that even work and like what you're in portland like trying to figure this out at some point
you're in argentina right like you were kind of in different places throughout this whole adventure as well. I did. I did get to go stop in
and see him to make sure he had all those fingers and toes that we talked about coming home safely
with. So funny enough, it's one of the logistic pieces, which is I had to trade in and out of
gear. So it was a double benefit of seeing her, but she'd also sort of figured out the logistics
like, okay, you need this duffel bag here and I'm going to bring this from here. So. Yeah. Um, yeah. How do you do it? Uh,
learn on the fly. That's my biggest piece of advice. You should move to Hollywood and become
a movie producer because you basically just produced an epic blockbuster. Yeah. Hopefully
one that I'll never have to produce again. it went so right and so wrong in so many
different times of course yeah so how did you you know what was your relationship to fear and risk
I mean it must have been challenging and difficult to to you know sort of go through long stretches
of not knowing what's going on yeah I mean I think it was an absolute blessing and a curse to know
all the details um because I felt like I was really there living it with Colin.
At the same time, I also knew all the details and I was really living it there.
So the fear was real in a lot of moments,
but I also felt so close to him that I kind of felt like I was there.
So we could kind of talk through some of those things
and make sure that we were both on the same page.
And now, hey, Colin, where's your mind at?
What's your head space?
Are you okay to make these decisions?
What's our safety word?
Let's not go over the limit here.
Was there any moment where you thought he was,
because it sounds like he would butt up against that
and you were the one pushing him through,
but was there ever a moment where you're like,
no, you got to stop?
At the end of the day, I so trust Colin's judgment and skills. I've seen him make really amazing decisions in critical environments before that I knew that if he could
make the decision himself and I could support that decision, that it was going to be okay.
But you'd have to know that he's making that decision objectively,
right? You have to have the barometer to know like, he's not in his mind right now. Like I
need to make it, help him make the right decision here or push him in a different direction.
Absolutely. And I had so many other resources too. So like on Everest, for example,
the logistic coordination from adventure consultants, like I was in touch with Basecamp
probably in an annoyingly amount of time.
But they gave me a ton of perspective.
And I have, you know, been living alongside Colin throughout his whole entire triathlon career.
And so I can tell when he's on his limit and when he's really making good decisions.
I think one of the great values of, you know, Jenna, of course, is very humble in this whole thing.
But she just
deserves to me deserves all the praise but really an amazing sounding board through the process so
she's she's saying diverting here like i'm making these decisions and she's not pulling the strings
but it's really an ability to call home to somebody who does know all the things who has
collected the data on her own objectively talking to base camp really tell me
what the weather's really doing because colin's up at camp four kind of out of his mind freaking
out but let's talk through what that really is and then she can help sort of synthesize that
information and uh really ground it yeah definitely it was a team effort was there one crazy scary
moment that stands out um yeah i you know everest of course comes to mind it was probably the most intense time it was
also the craziest time zone change for us so he was literally 12 hours different from me
um and it was a lot of sleepless nights but I think you know I mean I'm sure you remember this
column but you called me from camp four and you were crying and you were really scared and in that moment all I wanted to do was say please come down please come home like this is
too much let's not do this but I needed to play the role of protector motivator supporter you can
do this it can be done today and so that was a really hard moment for me
because, I mean, Colin is an emotional guy,
but he's not usually crying about things.
And so I needed to really kind of pull myself together
in that moment and support him.
What do you think Colin's sort of greatest talent
or, you know, what is his edge?
Like, what do you think it is that powered him or allowed him to conquer this in a way that nobody has before?
That distinguishes him from perhaps, you know, the other experienced climbers or athletes out there?
Yeah, I think it really goes back to perseverance and discipline.
Colin is the most disciplined person I have ever met,
and that is the big things and the little things.
So on Everest, just making sure you're taking care of yourself,
really, on all these mountains.
Applying sunscreen, you know, when you need to.
Making sure that you're being proactive in feeding yourself up there.
Just paying attention to your hydration,
all of those diligent, tiny details that you really need to pay attention to.
Like the pilot mentality, like of having checklists of all the little things you got
to make sure that you're doing instead of just winging it.
Exactly. And then when those times get tough and you're feeling out of sorts, I mean,
Colin's perseverance just is remarkable.
It always has been.
And it's actually such a pleasure to climb with him
because he's so self-aware
and he can almost do that without thinking about it
that he can kind of be my protector
when we're out there together.
So it's kind of nice to have him on your team
when you're out there climbing.
Colin, what has been the reception
within the climbing community?
Yeah, you know, for the most part, it's been incredibly positive.
I've gotten, you know, congratulatory response from so many people.
And I think that the people that met me along the way
see not only the authenticity of the adventure, but the authenticity behind the
mission. And really seeing, you know, people that were in expeditions with me for a long time,
you know, didn't go long without me, you know, talking about the kids that were, you know,
following along and how excited I was to share my story with them or about Jenna and the whole
sort of thing. So that's, you know, the reception, you know, from those folks have been, you know,
really, really fantastic.
Of course, you know, there's always that little bit of,
you know, well, it is the tallest mountain
in each of the seven continents,
but it's not the seven hardest mountains in the world.
Or like, there's always a, you know,
I climbed, you know, the standard route
on a lot of these mountains.
I climbed some of them, slightly more challenging routes than the standard route but for the most part
like i was going for speed and whatever make it hard enough on yourself right you know there's
always that like and i'm sure you've run into that yourself in various other capacities so
well yeah i mean there was that when diana naya did her cuba swim uh they wanted to nullify the
record because she she touched the boat like she never used the boat to move forward, but she hung onto the side of the boat and perhaps that violates some kind of
unspoken rule about open water swimming. I don't know. Right. So it's the same type of thing. And
I think that, you know, in any sort of, in any sort of feat, um, you know, there's going to be,
you know, a few detractors out there, but I'd say overwhelming 99% of the response has been really
positive and to me even more than looking for a general acceptance or love from the mountaineering
or climbing community which of course I have a high level of respect for and I would appreciate
the love and respect there and it's been received to have the love and respect of the teachers who
have reached out the students who have written me letters, that's what means the world to me. That's who I was always trying to reach with this project. I wasn't ever trying to go out and show the Alex Honolds of the world that I'm a true badass or something like that. kids with an inspirational mission around goal setting, dreaming big, chasing your dreams, and living an active outdoor healthy life. And so the reception we've gotten in that space
has been so incredibly positive and has fueled me to continue to push for my, reach my fundraising
goal, you know, really be out in the schools, like we said in the fall. And so for me, that's
the greatest success of it all and who I really care about. Yeah, I appreciate that.
And I think that that comes through pretty loud and clear.
There's no shortage of people out doing crazy adventures
and races, et cetera, and tying it to a charity.
But that relationship between the challenge and the charity
always seems, not always, but at times can seem not strained, but almost, uh, tacked on, tacked on.
Yeah. It's like, yeah, you're not really doing this for the charity. It's just, you can say that,
but it's really for you. You know, it's really, so, you know, I'm getting that from you that,
that really is what's behind this. And yeah, absolutely. And it really, you know, I agree
with you and we, we kind of surveyed the landscape of the space and also felt the same way about some other projects that we, you know, witnessed and wanted passion for this is very deep, you know, growing
up in a family that supported me in such a way that I, you know, had these great opportunities
and live a very healthy life growing up and giving back in that way. But it's been amazing how even
as I've been in this, my relationship and passion has grown for this cause with even more depth than
I would have really realized. And I think that goes back to what I said about thinking I was trying to provide inspiration out there,
but at the end of the day, it was those people who inspired me.
And so to continue that sort of reciprocal mutual benefit of just encouragement in this space
is just a special thing and humbling to walk into schools and have these kids want me to sign their T-shirt
or give them a hug or something like that.
It's just amazing to see the love and joy in that room
and to be a small part of that is really special.
So as a young dude, how old are you now?
31.
31.
Like a young guy who's accomplished so much in your 31 years.
For somebody who's listening who who you know maybe is
contemplating a challenge or getting out of their comfort zone trying something new you know what
are some of the principles and the tools that kind of guide your approach or that you know find
themselves front and center in your rule book in terms of how you live your life on a daily basis
or how you approach you know tackling you approach tackling obstacles in your life?
You know, for me, one of the criticisms we have gotten about this project
is that it was not an inexpensive thing to do.
We had to have some...
There's no way it could have been.
I mean, I can't imagine what this thing costs.
I'm afraid to ask you.
You probably wouldn't tell me anyway.
It wasn't inexpensive, and we're fortunate to have some really strong sponsors to support that
effort. But we've drawn a very clear distinction around our charitable efforts versus the project.
So when people are donating to our million dollar fundraising goal, we're not saying,
oh, but that actually climbed Everest, but then the rest is going to kids. 100% of what's donated
is going directly to kids. Clear distinction there. But the reason that I bring that up is that my hope with this project
and what I talk about when I'm in schools is not, hey, I climbed Mount Everest. One day,
maybe you could climb Mount Everest. It's the complete opposite about that. It's finding
what is, to use the same metaphor, your Everest in your life.
What is a goal that you can set for yourself? You know, what's around the block from you? What are
things that are, you know, inexpensive to do as parents in terms of, you know, teaching your kids
these principles? Like most people have some sort of green space, even if living in a very urban
environment. You can live in New York City and you've got Central Park. There's a way to get
outside, to unplug from the TV, get active and play. You know, as a kid, this word play, we lose
it as adults sometimes, but just this idea of play. So I, you know, one of the core principles,
you know, to your question in my daily life is, you know, what's immediately surrounding me? Like,
what can I do to enrich my life in a healthful, fun, happy, playful way? Because I think when you
nurture those things in your life, it not only makes you feel better, but it makes the people
around you feel better. It can, you know, people don't always put the direct correlation into,
you know, better grades in school or better focus in the, you know, career boardroom with exercise.
But I mean, I think that there's this very strong correlation there between that. I think,
I imagine you would feel the same. And so, you know, that's, that's the, what I mean, I think that there's this very strong correlation there between that. I think I imagine you would feel the same.
And so, you know, that's what I think that I would instill is it doesn't have to be.
I'm a big believer in dream big, set a massive goal for yourself like I, you know, like I
did for myself, perhaps.
But that's just a series of 20 years of incremental goal setting.
You know, what's one step in front of me?
What's the next thing?
What's the next thing? What's the next thing?
And so, you know, don't be shy about,
if you've never run before,
hey, running your local 5K three months from now,
like that's an awesome goal.
Like good for you.
Like that should be celebrated just as greatly
as for me setting a world record.
You know, it's just the dedication
to whatever process that is that you're passionate about.
You know, go for it.
What do you think would be something that people would misunderstand about you or the
adventure that you just tackled, like misconceptions or projections that people place on you about
who you are and what you've accomplished?
Yeah, you know, I think that a lot of what we've talked about makes for a great discussion.
And I love that you tied it back into fear and my perception of that and sort of even getting me to drill down on some things I haven't thought about in my relationship with that.
But there are certainly people out there that look at this or maybe listen to this podcast and hear some of those stories and go
this is reckless like this guy's unhinged yeah like you've you know you've got this lovely
partner who's probably too supportive of me you know like you said it's time for her it's time
for her to do her thing and me support that which i'm a side note 100 for but you know, I think that that is one of the misconceptions,
you know, how, how could you put your mother through this? How could you put Jenna through
this? You know, that sort of thing. Um, it would really, it would take someone so like into
themselves to, you know, do something like this. Well, it's that weird thing where we love to see
people do impossible things, but then the minute it's accomplished it becomes a process of tearing them
like well that was irresponsible or you know like that right why you know what kind of person are
you that would do that right it's like those things go together right right and so i hope in
in in broad strokes that's that's not the the general take home from all of this but uh i would
say yeah in terms of a uh are you feeling bad that we like highlighted these? No, you know, actually I like it. I actually really like it. Cause I mean,
I love this podcasting format. I love the long form. I mean, you have a special talent and gift
for it. I feel like when I'm sitting here talking with you, I'm really locked in, in a way that,
you know, that you don't provide the space and time, even with family, friends to really just
have a long form conversation. So thank you and gratitude. That's a special place that you create with this.
But, you know, I think that in anything, those are great narrative learning pieces,
whether it's I learned from them myself moving forwards, or it's a just interesting story to
hear, but the person listening might have made a different decision. I think that it sparks,
you know, thoughtful conversation. And for that, I appreciate it.
Is there anything you would have changed about how you, you know, navigated the adventure?
There's nothing directly that I would change. And I'm certainly not setting out to do this
ever again, but funny enough, like I can see how you could do it faster.
Yeah. You know, that's a funny thing to say.
Yeah. Well, the closing question was going to be like, what's next?
Like, what's going to get you out of bed now?
Other than the fundraising and the kids,
is there another adventure on the horizon?
Or are your gears already turning on that?
You can't do this again.
You know, marriage is on the horizon.
So ending our very long engagement
to actually be married is on the horizon.
Are you going to get married
on the summit of some mountain?
Please tell me you're going to like a beach. The opposite. The opposite.
We're going to the Berkshires, Massachusetts, Jenna's hometown, a beautiful place in Western
Mass. So we're going to get married in her beautiful hometown. So excited about that.
Next spring. Yeah. And then, you know, there's not any specific adventure on the horizon. You know,
honestly, I'm still so tired and exhausted from this one.
I haven't really caught up from this.
I almost feel like I'm still in this adventure.
So to think about the next is that.
But certainly the charitable work, the fundraising,
that's really the primary focus to continue
to not just set the one goal of the world record,
but get our second goal of the million dollar fundraise
and spread the word.
Have you had your blood work done?
I have had my blood work done.
It was actually the first thing I did when I came home.
I was only in Portland for one day
and I made sure to do that
because I've been sort of really moderately obsessive
with that through my athletic career
because I have gotten sick and over-trained at times
and that's what's really picked up on
and just being really good about that.
So I was more curious than anything
because I'm going to recover no matter,
I'm going to take the time to not push my body for a little while and recover
from all this madness.
But my blood rep where it came back completely normal,
except for my hermetic crit rate,
which is the blood oxygen saturation was off the charts. In fact, I think that if
I were in like a cycling race or something right now, and I got tested on the bike, see how it
feels like I would like test, but like my body, the truth, my body is so they'd be like, no,
he's not doping. Cause he's way too tired. But like my blood level, just from being up at high
altitude for so long is about, know a good 20 30 percent higher
than it normally is which is like dramatic for sure but that but that goes away yeah i think
probably already now i've been a couple weeks since that but you had no like deficiencies or
any other kind of red flags you know it's it's really wild because you know i've you know i've
flown i remember you know flying to asia for races a couple times falling sick the day before the
race and go man i just flew halfway around the world and like DNF'd after five minutes
because I was so sick. And so one of my biggest, just like, how are we going to strain together
139 days of that not happening? And that happening once is enough to derail this whole project.
Being in weird places where you can't eat the way that you want to eat.
All of that. And so so amazingly i'm actually kind
of still anticipating the crash at some point but um my body held out long enough i was actually
extremely healthy through this entire process um and uh that's a great blessing and in between
each one of the when you had a little bit of time you know some of these there was a little bit of
time in between the ascents right so what So what did your training look like, your maintenance training or your preparation?
Yeah, there was, there was a couple of breaks. I think the, the couple, you know, one and two
week breaks throughout this process based on weather windows we were waiting for. Um,
strangely enough, uh, one of my biggest tactics there was to eat a lot, actually put weight back
on, um, because my body was just getting so depleted and it's getting ready to do something north pole everest and i people sometimes lose
20 30 pounds just climbing everest and there's no way you can lose that and then think you're
going to climb another mountain 30 pounds climb that's not uncommon that is really not uncommon
yeah like that's actually more the norm uh than not losing weight um and so actually nutrition and food was more of a focus than
uh physical uh training but uh you know when i was in australia i swam a bit in the ocean just
kind of keep the body active and uh it's a weird thing to train for something like this in comparison
to what you and i have both done a lot of which is single day big events or maybe a few day big
you know endurance events like in ultraman or something there still is that taper period that preparation and
then you're you know you're jamming even if it's a long race for a couple days
this is six months five you know in the end just under five months I guess you
can't just be like fit for that the whole time right like so it's more of
just this getting my body to this plateau of being able to do a lot but the high different than
traditional high performance so that was unique for me yeah interesting yeah it's almost like it
should be you know like somebody should have studied the whole thing to you know dial in the
preparation so when you go for it again because you've clearly figured out how you can do it
no that that was a jenna shaking her head over here um no that
uh that's not going to be another attempt i was just saying after you can be just throwing it out
there it can be done faster i might not tell the secret and i was gonna say like how much for the
for the route that's gonna make it work to the highest bidder yeah exactly so did you have uh
is there gonna be like a documentary you guys working on any kind of media related stuff?
Yeah, so, you know, kind of just doing a bunch of fun media stuff, just in the immediate stuff.
You know, CBS Sunday Morning, being on some great podcasts like yourself is really, really fun.
But in the longer term media, I'd like to write a book about this.
You should.
You know, you've gone through that whole process.
So I think that's a whole nother mountain to climb is that whole process and diving into this,
but I'm an avid, uh, daily journaler and I have been throughout my whole life, not just through
this project. So, um, that would be fun for me to kind of really put the pen to paper.
You would be able to document it pretty thoroughly throughout when you weren't watching, uh, uh,
episodes of HBO's girls. Exactly. That was a big base camp. I saw the tweet.
Yeah well believe it or not uh there were some times when I'm like I remember being at the North
Pole or on our way to the North Pole it's minus 40 outside I'm in this little tent getting blown
around and I just pull up my phone I've got this like you know girls what better way to like
Manhattan people joking around drinking cocktails like there Like what's the opposite of my life right now?
Put my head literally inside of my sleeping bag and just like get away from it all for a second.
I felt like Leonard Dunham really should have responded to that because it's so unique.
Yeah.
So yeah, no, girls, all five seasons of Girls, I download them all and they got me through in times.
They're great.
That's the secret.
That's the secret right there.
Damn, I gave it away um but then yeah a book and then also um you know we
really i try to document this project as best i can there was a few moments when different people
got some more professional footage of me but most of it is is me and handheld and i'm far from a
professional documentarian but i kind of live by that i had three different cameras with me and i
figured if i got out my camera as much as possible maybe at least a little bit of something decent and so we
had a jimmy chin with you yeah exactly I'm not quite uh on that on that cinematography level but
no I think we have a great story to tell in documentary form really the and just seeing just
from even the little clips that we've released and snapchats and things like that right now we
just put out a six minute sort of retelling of my every story and i think for people to really lay eyes on those places uh
gives another amazing fabric to the sort of whole adventure so we'll hopefully be able to put
something together if we can find a production partner for that um you know in the next little
bit here very cool well i feel like your your story is somewhat similar to the iron cowboy
in the sense that you did this extraordinary thing
you did it you know did something no one's ever done before and you're getting media attention
you did cbs this morning cbs this morning sunday morning sunday morning that's a big deal like
you're getting some press recognition but i also feel like you're not really getting the do that
you deserve you know like i feel like people really should know more
about like what's going on.
And the same way that I feel,
I feel that way about the Iron Cowboy.
I'm like, I don't think people really understand
like how incredible that was.
And I feel this is very similar to that
in that, you know, you're making an impression
and you're getting it out there.
But I feel like more people should perk up
and pay attention and tap into this story
because it really is remarkable and incredible.
And my hat is off to you, Matt commend you it's really something special thank you yeah
i gotta last but not least i i know i'll give you the last word because you gotta have the last word
but it's my show but i have one last word for me which is i totally agree with uh you said to me
about the iron cowboy wow what an amazing feat. Unless you've kind of lived in that space, you don't quite recognize how remarkable that is. So that was incredible. And just my last word is
just a final shout out to the Rich World Podcast listeners. You guys have been some of our most
vocal, amazing advocates throughout this process. So much gratitude to be on the show right before
this was happening. But just filling up our Instagram feed with comments and likes just so many people. I heard your story on Rich Roll
podcast. This is incredible. I'm thank you for following along. Um, it's a testament to you,
Rich, and the amazing stuff you put out of just like you have a great following of listeners out
there and you obviously are putting out some amazing stuff. So it's been a blessing to be in
small part in the Rich Roll family this year. So thank you to everyone out there with all the shout outs.
It's all the audience, man.
Thank you.
That means a lot to me.
I really appreciate that.
It's my privilege to be able to put a microphone in front of you and share your story, man.
It's really, you know, it's touching to hear you say that, but it's your story, dude.
And they're flocking to you because you have something to say and you did something extraordinary, the two of you together, actually.
And it's inspiring, dude.
And it really makes me think about the boundaries of human, and how we think about that. Because when I see
somebody like you, who hasn't been, you know, you weren't a professional mountaineer for 20 years
before you did that. You're an incredible athlete. You obviously are extremely talented,
very, you know, devoted and dedicated to, you know, achieving your goals. But the fact that
you were able to do what you were able to do really just makes me question other things in my life
and what I see around me.
Because I think as human beings,
and I say this all the time, it's almost like a trope,
but we're all capable of doing so much more
than we often allow ourselves to believe.
And when I see somebody like you
who blows the lid off something,
that helps me and
inspires me to look at my own life and examine it and try to be better. So thank you for that.
Thank you for having me.
All right, man. We did it.
Yeah. How do you feel?
I feel great. Love it.
Anything else you want to say?
I think that's it. Anyone who wants to check out At Beyond 7-2, we still got all the photos and
stuff up of retelling this story. But again, just a deep gratitude and thank you to you, two, we still got all the photos and stuff up and retelling this story. But, uh, again, just a deep gratitude and thank you to you,
rich and,
the virtual family for,
uh,
embracing us so much.
Yeah.
Cool.
So,
so definitely check out all your social,
their social media accounts at beyond underscore seven,
two,
right.
Is basically where everything lives and,
go back and listen to,
if you're,
if you're new to the show,
go back and listen to our first podcast.
I don't remember the number.
It was, I think I posted it in January.
I'll put links in the show notes up to everything,
including that little documentary.
Like I watched that earlier today.
I'll put links up to that
and tap into this guy, man.
And check out his story.
And if you are involved in any kind of school,
high school, high school,
elementary school,
whatever,
get in touch with Colin and Jenna and he will come and visit and inspire your
kids.
Right?
Yes,
absolutely.
Be our pleasure.
Cool,
man.
Thanks.
Peace.
Blants.
Where to even begin?
I mean, incredible accomplishment,
perhaps an even more incredible human.
Really hope you guys enjoyed that.
To learn more, check out beyond72.com
and definitely check out the episode page show notes
at richroll.com.
I got lots of cool stuff there
to delve deeper into Colin's world,
including some really great videos
that will give you a glimpse on what this expedition was all about. What else can I tell you? Well,
check out my YouTube channel and subscribe for vlogs and more at youtube.com forward slash rich
roll for all your plant power merch and swag needs. Go to richroll.com. I got signed copies
of finding ultra and the plant power way. We got cool plant power t-shirts. We got tech teas. We
got swag. We got merch. We got stickers, all kinds of cool stuff. And if you're interested in following
me online and you're not doing that already, I'm easy to find at Rich Roll on Twitter and Instagram
and on Snapchat. It's I am Rich Roll. I want to thank everybody who helped put this episode
together today. Of course, Colin O'Brady for being an amazing guest. Jason Camiolo for all his wizardry
with audio engineering
and production.
Thank you, Jason.
Sean Patterson
for all his graphic work.
Always appreciated, Sean.
Chris Swan
for production assistance.
Chris spends a lot of time
helping me with the show notes.
Takes a lot of time.
He helps pull quotes
for the episode.
It's some heavy lifting.
So thank you so much, Chris.
That's it. Thanks for all the support, you guys's some heavy lifting. So thank you so much, Chris. That's it.
Thanks for all the support, you guys.
I love you.
I appreciate you tuning in.
And I've got a final thought for you.
What Colin achieved is superhuman.
But again, I find his commitment to tackling childhood obesity, to giving back perhaps
the most inspiring aspect of his story.
So the question I want to leave with you is this.
How can we all do better at
merging our interests, our professions, our extracurricular activities, our hobbies,
and our pursuits to something beyond ourselves, something outside of ourselves,
something with greater meaning and positive impact than simple self-satisfaction?
To me, this is the key to living a life of meaning and purpose and
satisfaction. And I'm going to take a deeper look at this in my own life. And my hope is that
you do as well. See you guys soon. Peace. Plants. Bye. you