Today, Explained - Victoria’s Secret wants you back
Episode Date: October 17, 2025The lingerie brand was tarnished by its connection to Jeffrey Epstein, and by fading cultural appeal. With the relaunch of its once-iconic fashion show, Victoria's Secret is fighting for relevance. T...his episode was produced by Ariana Aspuru, edited by Miranda Kennedy, fact-checked by Laura Bullard, engineered by Patrick Boyd, and hosted by Noel King. Gigi Hadid at the 2025 Victoria's Secret Fashion Show. Photo by Gilbert Flores/Variety via Getty Images. Listen to Today, Explained ad-free by becoming a Vox Member: vox.com/members. New Vox members get $20 off their membership right now. Transcript at vox.com/today-explained-podcast. Read more from Amy Odell on her substack: https://amyodell.substack.com/. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
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On Wednesday night in New York, Victoria's Secret held a watch party for its iconic fashion show.
I thought Victoria's Secret is dying.
Everyone did, though. For years, Victoria's Secret was on top of the world.
And then in 2019, the public learned of a friendship between Jeffrey Epstein and the company's owner.
Everybody started just asking questions.
Who is Wexner and what is his relationship to Epstein?
Wexner is the founder of Victoria's Secret.
Like, would it be crazy to say the founder of Victoria's Secret?
It's kind of perverted.
Leslie Wexner damn well knew.
Victoria's Secret lost its place in the firmament.
It just seemed kind of gross.
Now it's trying to launch a comeback, but has fashion moved on?
I think that they know that they need to get back to that place,
but they don't know how to make it cool.
That's ahead on Today Explained.
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This is a day. Today it's planned.
This is dead.
They're listening to.
Today is playing.
And you're watching the show tonight?
Of course I am.
Never miss it.
I always watch it on the playback.
I go back to YouTube.
And I love it.
Every year, I love it.
I hope they're going to do it every year.
I think it's like a fun thing, you know.
It's a fun night out with your friends.
It's kind of like the Super Bowl, but for women, I think.
Amy O'Dell, fashion journalist, shoot.
The Victoria's Secret Fashion Show really architected the idea of fashion as entertainment.
Okay, everybody, have a great show.
Stand by.
Adriana, the goddess from Miami, standing by.
So fashion shows have historically really been trade shows.
Yes, they're glamorous trade shows.
You're not visiting booths in a convention hall in Las Vegas when you're going to
Fashion Week, but the idea is to show collections to the industry.
I don't want to know how much those wings cost, but they're very valuable, and I feel like
a million bucks in them, so.
And just a little more leg.
Just a little more leg.
A little leg never heard anybody. Beautiful.
Victoria's Secret was very early to the idea that, hey, we can jazz this up, we can add
musical guests, and we can turn it into entertainment and air it on television.
All right. So the 2025 Victoria's Secret Fashion Show was Wednesday night. The draw of this show was always who was there, who was on the runway, who was attending, who was doing music. What was this year all about? Like, what was cool? The models were great. They had a great lineup. Alex Kansani, who's fantastic, who is funny in every interview that she does. She's great at doing those.
pre-show interviews sitting in her makeup chair, you know, answering silly questions from reporters.
Sleak, slick back or bouncy blowout, baby bouncy blowout all day. That's why we're here.
The secret to the perfect blood is having an amazing hairstylist. I don't know how to do this.
What's a tip? What's a tip?
We saw Ashley Graham also fantastic in her pre-show interview talking about how things are going to be
bouncing. Things are going to be moving. There's going to be a little cellulite here and there.
And you know what? I'm owning it. And I'm owning it. And I'm owning it for every.
everybody that's watching.
Law Roach was asking celebrities' questions on the pink carpet.
It's the fantastical world that they're able to build that brings us in.
Yes.
Sarah Jessica Parker was there.
You know, I have probably the same history with Victoria's Secret that most civilians do,
which is it's sort of like this fantasy.
And whether you fit in or not, in reality, kind of doesn't matter.
And then Victoria's Secret also brought the aim.
angels back. We saw Adriana Lima, Alessandro Ambrosio, Douts and Crows, Candace Swanpole,
all these women who I remember from Victoria's Secret catalogs that I used to get at my house
when I was growing up. Yeah. And people did seem to have a lot of positive nostalgia.
We are so fucking back. My inner child who grew up with Victoria Secret in the fashion shows
is healed. Honestly, someone who grew up watching the Victoria Secret fashion show every single year.
I thought it was great. I really, really enjoyed it.
You've been covering fashion for a number of years now, and you got to go to the show back when it was at its peak. What was it like? What was it like when it was like the hottest game in New York?
Yeah, I started my fashion journalism career at The Cut in 2008, and the Victoria's Secret Fashion Show is a holiday marketing push. So as you neared the holidays, the invites would start to go out. And I remember sitting at my desk.
and opening a pile of mail
and getting an invite to the Victoria's Secret Fashion Show,
and it was like the golden ticket.
Let's hear exactly what it says.
It was like one of the hottest things
that you could go see if you were in the industry.
I think that's because you were going to get to see someone
like Lady Gaga or Taylor Swift or Justin Bieber perform.
And there was just so much excitement and heat.
So typically they would have reporters come and interview.
you the models backstage when they were getting their hair and makeup done during the day.
Well, I mean, we have beautiful hair and makeup, and there's a body room where they, like, you know,
give us tan and shine.
A body room?
Yes, yes.
So you would go and talk to the models, and around this time, the late aughts early 2010s,
a lot of it would be, you know, how are you getting ready for the show?
And they would talk a lot about their diet and exercise routines.
I remember that.
I work out every day.
Sometimes I take a day off in the week.
It depends.
You have to work out on the day.
I'm sorry.
Which later drew increasing amounts of scrutiny.
Lima says she gets on a regimen of protein shakes, vitamins, and a gallon of water a day.
For nine days leading up to the show, she doesn't need any solid food.
And then you would go back and you would watch the show at night.
And there would be a lot of people there sort of stadium-style seating in the armory in New York City.
and there would be a big pink carpet where celebrities who were attending would walk the carpet and answer questions.
Past celebrities who attended included Leonardo DiCaprio, Vin Diesel, Donald Trump went twice in the 90s.
And I seem to remember that they would sometimes get up and clap for the models as they were coming down the runway.
And I have to say watching it, it really did feel like, you know, objectifying women.
And that was very glaring to me at the time, even as a young reporter.
And also, a lot of the people in the crowd were people who looked like they came from Wall Street, which is very atypical for a fashion show.
Like it wasn't the ladies walked over from the Financial District and were like, show us the great underwear.
It was the dudes.
Exactly.
It was men in suits who looked like they came up from Wall Street.
And I was told at the time, I would try to ask them, like, what are you doing here? Why are you here? It's just so at typical to see that type of person at a fashion show and any fashion show.
2025, we are now living in a second Trump administration. And the culture broadly is more comfortable criticizing things like diversity. It is more comfortable criticizing plus size people. There's kind of a push in some corners to like return to form. Go back to when everybody looked like Sidney or.
Adriana Lima. Do you, did you feel any of that tension watching this show? I did feel that
tension. To me, the aesthetic felt like the Victoria's Secret of the aughts where Vin Diesel
would stand up and cheer as a hot girl was walking past him on the runway. And a lot of bronzer,
kind of very done hair. The look of cool in fashion, you know, like,
or not, has for a long time, maybe a decade now, been sort of this Phoebe Philo version of
cool, which is oversized clothes, kind of awkward, flat shoes, sneakers. I think the sneaker
trend is actually finally breaking. But we were wearing sneakers with everything for like 10
years, you know, not stilettos. And so Victoria's Secret kind of shows you the opposite of that.
It's glitzy. It's push-up bras. It's shiny.
fabrics. It's bright colors. It's tacky. It's very loud, very done and made up.
You've been following Victoria's Secret for a long time now. What do you think in 2025 it is trying
to say about what it's doing, about who it's for, about whether it leads culture or is downstream
of culture? I think it's downstream of culture. I don't think it has a grasp on culture or
its place and culture. I think it wanted to come back. I think it wants to have the buzz and clout
and interest and intrigue that it did in the 2000s when it was at its peak. But I don't think
it understands the culture that it's coming back to. For all of the conversation I saw on social
media where people were like, I'm kind of into this. This is really fun. Like I love the
nostalgia. I saw a lot of people saying, you know, why are we still doing this? Why are we back to
this?
Adele is a journalist. She writes the back row newsletter. It covers fashion and culture. She hosts
the all new back row podcast. Check out our show notes for more. Coming up, the Epstein Files.
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Beauty style. Today explained.
Lauren Sherman is a fashion correspondent at Puck. She's co-author of the book Selling
Sexy Victoria's Secret and the unraveling of an American icon. Lauren, tell me about
this couple, the Raymond's, who founded Victoria's Secret?
So Roy and Gay were sort of proto-start-up people.
Roy had his MBA from Stanford, and he was in the 1970s in Silicon Valley when all that
stuff was sort of starting, and he saw a white space in lingerie.
He actually, they started a sex toy company prior, a mail-order sex toy company,
essentially he was trying to find things that made people uncomfortable and make them more comfortable.
So with underwear, you know, the places you would get that in prior to Victoria's Secret was you would go to a department store where they would just have a bunch of beige stuff or you would go somewhere more tawdry or like a Fredericks of Hollywood type thing.
And there was nowhere that men or women could shop for lingerie in a comfortable sort of very elegant.
way of doing it. I think of it as like a Barney's of lingerie when it first launched. It was very
high-end, lots of high-end brands from Europe. And it was cool. It was a, it was an interesting,
very novel concept at the time. And because they launched with a catalog as well, it really
took off fast. Okay. So this is what in capitalism we call an inevitability. It was going to be
a success. Once it took off, what happened? Well, you know, Roy and, and, and, and, you know,
the original partners. They weren't great at managing the business, but there was this guy named
Les Wexner sitting in Ohio. He had launched this company called Limited Brands out of his
parent's store. And he thought that Victoria's Secret was primed to be scaled across the country.
And so he bought it for a very measly sum out of the Raymond's hands. And by 10 years later,
it was a billion dollar business. In the Victoria's Secret lingerie,
shop on Madison Avenue, a transformation's going on. A woman, a self-described practical type,
given to wearing blouses with high collars and her boyfriend's old jeans, is buying slinky silk
tetties and panties edged with lace. When did, when and how did Victoria's Secret go from being,
you know, a store that I would go into and buy some nice draws to, like, this company doing a
wild fashion show in New York that everybody wants to be part of.
It happened in the late 90s after Wexner read this book by the director Sidney Lumet called
Making Movies. And he really applied the cinematic experience to brand building in retail.
And he turned Victoria's Secret into a media brand. And he and his marketer Ed Razick launched this
fashion show. The first one was at the Plaza Hotel. Think about this. They live streamed the
Victoria's Secret Fashion Show, and it became a cultural phenomenon. It was something that
like whole families would gather around together and watch. It's an honor to be here tonight
to help get the entire country focused on two very important things, supermodels and lingerie.
It really transformed from the place that you get five for 25 undies to a part of as big as
the Super Bowl in some ways. When you're talking about major fashion events,
There's our show, and then there's what?
And so once you're as big as the Super Bowl, in some ways, you are bound to hit trouble.
What happens to Victoria's Secret that kind of derails it?
Well, you know, cultural more has changed, and the company did not change with it.
And when you're that powerful and that rich, people don't like to say no to you.
And so by the 2010s, when the sort of hokey vaudeville-esque way that these women were being displayed,
it didn't feel modern anymore.
It felt, you know, it was objectifying
and everybody knew it.
On behalf of every tongue-twisted guy
who's ever tried to strike up a conversation
with a delicious crumpet,
I will introduce to you
the caring, multi-talented personalities
beneath the bras.
The parent company was run by men
and they just decided,
no, this is what we think is sexy
and we're going to keep it that way.
And Razick did an interview,
Ed Razick did an interview
with Vogue in 2018
where he kind of
just said a lot of really
off-color things. During an interview
for Vogue, Razak used the word transsexual
which is deemed outdated and offensive
and said that trans and plus-sized women
do not exemplify the fantasy the Victoria's Secret
is trying to sell. The exec also revealed that he and the
VS team have previously thought of casting trans and plus-size
models but ultimately decided against doing so.
That upset many people and that was
the company was already starting
to decline by the time that happened.
But the bigger picture is that this comes in the face of declining sales at the lingerie chain
and also plummeting TV ratings for this fashion show.
And criticism that what it really does is it objectifies women.
And then because it can always get worse, it does.
Close listeners may have heard you say the name Les Wexner.
One thing that's very clear, when people say, you know, please share names, there are names
that are very well known, like that of Les Wexner, who everyone is.
is a name that around 2019, 2020 was all over the place. Tell us about the men who were involved
with Victoria's Secret and who else they were involved with. So Wexner had a very longstanding
relationship with the one and only Jeffrey Epstein. Epstein had power of attorney over Wexner
for many, many years, starting from the early 90s up until I think the early 2000s. He was his
business associate and he also, you know, they were very close. Wexner actually essentially gifted him
a mansion on the, that famous mansion on the Upper East Side. It was originally Wexner. So there was
a transfer of the townhouse. It's very blurry. If you look at how that happened for zero and then
there was payment. It's unclear the money trail. And then also, don't forget, he also transferred
the jet over a Boeing 727. They had a very complex.
relationship. And Epstein's rise and fall sort of coincides with the Wexner and the Victoria's Secret
rise and fall. When Epstein was finally arrested in 2008, Wexner kind of came out and said he had
no idea any of this was going on, that Epstein was stealing money from him, et cetera, et cetera.
In a statement today, Wexner says, I severed all ties with Mr. Epstein, nearly 12.
12 years ago, I would not have continued to work with any individual capable of such egregious
sickening behavior as has been reported about him. As you can imagine this past week, I have
searched my soul reflected and regretted that my path ever crossed his. And that was sort of the
time when Victoria's Secret failed to see the writing on the wall of where the market was moving.
And so at the time of Epstein's arrest, and then in the late 2010s,
And then his death, it was all sort of the parallels between what was happening of Victoria's Secret
and what was happening with Epstein were really remarkable. He never had anything to do with the
day-to-day running of that business, even though many people assume he did. He was really a
personal advisor to Wexner. But he also was around. He went to the fashion show. He definitely engaged
with the models. And so it is a very, very complex intertwining and has definitely
mired Wexner's legacy on a lot of levels.
The Board of Directors of Victoria's Secret, even though it was limited brands was a public
company at the time, the parent company, was always a lot of friends of friends.
It wasn't, you know, above board, board.
And so eventually there were activists of investors who pushed them.
A rough stretch for Victoria's Secret earlier this week.
The chief marketing officer for L Brands, the proprietor of Victoria Secret, resigned in the wake of a host of
controversies, and that was all before the company CEO received this damning letter from more
than 100 models demanding action. They changed the board makeup, and Wexner eventually stepped
down and stepped away from the business and divested from the business. And I imagine they're
under new management, and they're really trying to come back. They're really trying to be relevant
to Gen Z in particular. What are the opportunities that Victoria's Secret has to, you know,
know, change their, change their brand and make themselves appeal to the wider culture again.
We're at this anti-woke period of culture, where it's like a pushback on the pushback.
And I thought Victoria's Secret did a good job last night and their executive creative director,
Adam Selman, of conjuring what made Victoria's Secret fun, what made a lot of people participate
without making it feel like the last 10 years didn't happen.
So it was incredibly inclusive, incredibly diverse in terms of body size, ethnicity, gender, even.
But it also didn't feel forced or that they were doing it because they had to.
It just felt like this reflects what the culture looks like right now.
And also the musical performances, they had this big K-pop band on and Missy Elliott.
Like, that reflects, like, the old school Missy Elliott fans.
Victoria's sacred!
And then, you know, everyone who's under 25's obsessed with K-pop.
And so I think the big question for them is, like, does anyone care?
Is this worth it?
Will this drive sales?
It felt like a nice outing, really positive all around.
whether or not that's going to move the needle for them is another question.
I've talked to people who have worked in every generation of this business.
The core of Victoria's Secret was to make women feel good.
And that used to mean pleasing your husband.
And then it meant pleasing society.
And now it means pleasing yourself.
And I think what Victoria's Secret did was they acknowledged, look, like there were models on that runway
who used to be 50 pounds heavier than they are.
And I think what Victoria's Secret did was show every kind of beauty.
And it's not perfect.
Like it's still, why are we showing women walking around in lingerie on a runway?
It's so crazy and silly.
But I think they did the best job of reflecting, like, actual reality, which most marketers cannot do.
Lauren Sherman is a fashion correspondent.
at Puck. She's co-author of the book Selling Sexy, Victoria's Secret, and the unraveling
of an American icon. Ariana Espudo produced today's show, Miranda Kennedy edited. Patrick Boyd is our
engineer and Laura Bullard is our senior researcher. The rest of the team, Avishai Artsy, Miles
Brian, Peter Balanon-Rosen, Hadi Moogdi, Kelly Wessinger, Danielle Hewitt, Denise Gera,
Amina El Sadi, and Jolie Myers. We use music by Breakmaster Cylinder. Sean Ramos
firm, my co-host, you've been having a good time? I have.
I have purchased marijuana at a legal cannabis shop.
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