Well with Arielle Lorre - 364: Botox Alternatives That Actually Work, LED Light 101 and How to Get the Real Results with Dr. Dennis Gross
Episode Date: December 11, 2024Dr. Dennis Gross is a board-certified dermatologist, named one of the most influential sources on dermatology and beauty, as well as the founder of the iconic Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare. He jo...ins the show to discuss common aging concerns such as sun damage and loss of collagen and specific tips we can implement to prevent and reverse them, actual alternatives to botox that work, the importance of using LED light and how it works, foundational skincare ingredients, what lasers to use when and so much more. This episode may contain paid endorsements and advertisements for products and services. Individuals on the show may have a direct, or indirect financial interest in products, or services referred to in this episode.Go to tryarmra.com/BLONDE or enter BLONDE for 15% off your first order.Sign up at ro.co/BLONDE to pay $99 for your first month.Visit DrinkLMNT.com/BLONDE to get a free sample pack with any purchaseVisit qualialife.com/BLONDE for 50% off of Qualia Senolytic and code BLONDE at checkout for an additional 15% off.Visit fatty15.com/BLONDE or use code BLONDE for an additional 15% off their Starter Kit.New customers get $5 off Lume’s Starter Pack with the code BLONDE at LumeDeoderant.comProduced by Dear MediaSee Privacy Policy at https://art19.com/privacy and California Privacy Notice at https://art19.com/privacy#do-not-sell-my-info.
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The following podcast is
A Dear Media Production
In a world of ever-changing wellness trends and information, what does it mean to truly be well?
I'm Ariel Lurie and I'm going to explore this with you.
I am bringing you candid conversations that will equip you with everything you need to live your best life and look good doing it.
Think of well as your go-to resource for all of the latest in wellness and me as your internet bestie.
Well, let's get into it.
Hi, everybody. Welcome to the show.
I have a total icon on the show today. He probably needs no introduction, but I will introduce
him regardless. I'm talking to Dr. Dennis Gross, who is a board-certified dermatologist and
dermatologic surgeon. Dr. Gross has been in practice for 25 years. He's the founder of Dr. Dennis
Gross Dermatology, as well as the very popular Dr. Dennis Gross skincare line. So as a dermatologist,
Dr. Gross is well known and has been featured as one of New York Magazine's best doctors for his
expertise in skin health as well as his approach to creating and maintaining the most natural
looking skin utilizing the very latest state-of-the-art cosmetic treatments and dermatologic technology.
And then Dr. Dennis Gross skincare is inspired by his patients at the practice and is a bestseller
at Sephora, Nordstrom, QBC, and around the world. Dr. Dennis Gross skincare has been
lauded for its innovative approach to skincare and home peeling treatments by every major magazine,
including Vogue, Harper's Bazaar L, and the New York Times magazine. So he is on the show today
talking about common aging concerns. We talk things like reversing sun damage and increasing collagen
production. We talk about true Botox alternatives that actually work. This is the first time I think
that we have really gotten into specifics of things that people can do instead of Botox,
aside from things that we can do at home. We talk about why it's important to cocktail treatments.
We talk a lot about LED light and kind of LED light 101, the basics, why we should be using it,
how to use it, how your skin absorbs it. We also talk foundational skin care, what lasers to use
and when and so much more. So please enjoy Dr. Dennis Gross. Dr. Dr. Dennis Gross.
Hello there. Hi, Ariel. Nice to see you. Nice to see you too. I'm sure you need no introduction with my audience. You are an icon and I'm really honored to have you here. So I would love to start out just by talking to you about your experience in the industry. You've been in the industry for so long. I'm sure you've seen all the trends come and go and all of the innovations. And I'd love to hear just from your perspective how both the industry and how beauty standards,
have changed and are changing now.
Right.
So I don't think you could pick a more complicated industry right now especially than the beauty
industry in general, right?
And I mean everything from procedures to skincare products, planning, customizing, sorting out
the confusion, finding out what's in your heart as a person who looks at his or her skin
and decides like what they need.
It's an incredibly emotional experience, journey.
So what am I seeing?
The first thing I would say to people is, yeah,
take your time and understand that it's confusing
and there is a way to educate.
And that's sort of what is a big part of what I feel is my calling
is to talk about these issues.
And the first thing, I think, starts by knowing
what you're seeing, what bothers you,
and then selectively customizing your journey, right?
So I think that people need to look in the mirror,
and I do like magnifying mirrors
because I think early detection is so important.
And then from there, take your time, do your research.
What should people be looking for?
So say that we're looking in the mirror,
we're looking in the magnifying mirror,
we're looking for these early detection signs,
as it's like when it comes to aging and that whole process,
What are some of the first signs and some of the interventions that we can take on?
So when a person comes into my exam room, right, how I unwind the whole approach is basically the different categories, right?
So I like to look for color issues, right?
Hyperpigmentation, redness.
I like to look for then the fine lines and wrinkles.
I think that complexion issues, sometimes you see that superimposed on fine lines.
and wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.
Texture.
That word texture has really,
one of the things that is amazing
is this culture of beauty
that we have to start to really select words
that mean the same thing to all of us, right?
Texture, I'll give you an example,
people call up and they say,
I want an appointment,
and we don't know what they mean by texture.
Some of them have dry skin,
some of them have breakouts,
some of them have rashes,
some of them have surface roughness.
It can mean anything, right?
because basically textures means I see it on the surface of my skin.
So I have to dissect like all these different things.
So I then look at hydration levels, dryness.
I start to look to see, I can sort of tell whether a product agrees with people or not.
And then we have to then begin like, okay, for example, okay, hyperpigmentation.
That's what you're seeing.
And this can come with any age group, right?
You can see hyperpigmentation in younger people, birth control pills,
darker complexions, sun exposure, not wearing sunscreen,
and it just, the propensity runs in families.
There's a tendency.
So those are the big categories.
And they're basically the same categories as in skincare.
So what you can do professionally and what you can do with a product,
knowing what ingredients to use,
knowing what your skin type is, is super important.
It's a big part of the customization.
You have to hone in on what's not going to make your skin
irritated, right? Or if you have sensitive skin, it's a whole other story. And sensitive skin
is a skin type. I pound that message home to all my clients. It's not just about dry skin,
oily skin combo. Sensitive is a skin type. So you have to sort of know what you're looking for,
which are those categories. And by the way, sometimes it's a combination of things. It's fine to
have fine lines and wrinkles, laxity or a crows feet, and hyperpigmentation or large pores, or
occasional blemishes. Let's get it all in. That's sort of how I approach it to begin with. And then I
start to create products, right? And then I start to create products that I love that are multitasking,
you know, with all this in line. So when I create a product, I am thinking I am creating this for all
skin types and for people all over the world, you know, and I love to give benefits for primary
problems and secondary problems as well. Long answer. I would love to get into the skincare
piece of it, but I'm curious, first, what do most people come to you with? What are these universal
concerns that you're seeing? Is it things like the texture, you know, whatever that means,
that's kind of like a nebulous term and it has different meanings like you're saying? Or is it
the fine lines and wrinkles? Or is it a combination of everything? There is no question that
they're all of the above, you know, maybe the percentage is higher for people who want to
address the, you know, an anti-aging regimen, starting to see fine lines and wrinkles or laxity
or sun damage in the past, you know, they're concerned or they're starting to see it.
You know, the effects of sun are delayed, you know, and I have so many people,
patients in my mind who come in and they're starting to see the results of having too much sun.
And I'll tell them that and they'll say, but I've been wearing sunscreen religiously
for the last five years. That's just too bad, but it's the truth is the damage is done and it's
delayed, you know, those free radicals that that sun exposure set off years ago, decades ago,
takes time to manifest. So the answer your question, I would say fine lines, wrinkles,
anti-aging, and then wanting to get a jump start on, you know, things they're starting to see
and things that are full-blown, they want to treat, you know. But then you have all these other
things. You know, stressful lives leads to breakouts. Lots of travel can lead to larger pores.
there's people who come into the practice who are seeing redness for the first time.
Is that rosacea?
Is that sensitivity?
You've got to work that out.
You know, you've got to teach them.
You've got to dissect it, diagnose it, and then set them on the right track.
I would love to talk about the sun exposure piece of it because I'm 39 and I am diligent about my sun protection.
However, I was a child of the 90s.
I was a teenager in my early 20s and the early 2000s.
when it was trendy to be as tan as humanly possible. And that was kind of before the era of spray
tan, self-taning. So I was in the tanning bed. I grew up in New England. I was not wearing sunscreen
on the beach. And I started seeing some of that sun exposure come to the surface essentially in the
last few years. And I have done a lot of lasers and things like that. But what are some things that
people can do to reverse that because I know that that's a common issue among a lot of followers
of mine and listeners who are the same age, who had the same practices, and are now seeing some
of that come to light. Right. Okay. So if you know that the clock is ticking and that you did
some damage, I think the first thing to think about is treating what you see and preventing it.
Now, lots of times treatment and prevention are the same thing. It's just a matter of the
timing, right? So if you look in the mirror and you start to see crow's feet or you raise your brow and
you see fine lines and wrinkles in the forehead and then they stick around after you bring your
brow back to a normal level, your baseline level, well, that's telling you that you're going to
have those lines in the future, even if you don't raise your brow, right? So you want to do things
like collagen production, right? You want to, and now you have to start to understand that there
are multiple ways to treat these problems. And sometimes it's not just a matter of selecting the one
way you choose to go, but by getting a blend of different approaches.
Collagen production, you can use different ingredients, you can get different lasers, you can do
peels, you can do LED. And at the same time, those modalities will call them different
techniques to treat and build collagen, they work differently. And it's not a bad idea
a cocktail to get different ways, things you do at home, things you might go to the dermatologist's office
once a month or once a quarter or once every six months, mix it up. So I would say that's the first
thing to understand, right? They're additive. And it's really smart to use the different major
building blocks of skincare, the pillars, you know, and mix it in with treatments in the office
in professional settings.
What are some ways, this is a personal question,
what are some ways that we can treat fine lines and wrinkles that are not Botox?
So you're mentioning collagen, production, skincare, LED, all of that.
I got Botox poisoning a year ago.
And so it's not an option for me right now.
It's been a year since I've gotten it.
And, you know, I'm seeing I don't have static lines, but I have dynamic lines.
And I'm not a fan, admittedly, of the lines.
It's like mostly like my crow's feet in my eye area.
I know that there are things like micrneedling and various lasers.
But I know a lot of people are seeking out alternatives, whether it's for health issues
or just not being able to afford it and the upkeep of doing it every few months.
So what are some of those things that we can do to help alleviate some of that movement and work on collagen production?
Looking at you, the number one thing, if you haven't gotten, my team's going to get you,
the LED eyewear, the Iwear pro product.
They look like goggles and they have, it's LED light, three minutes a day.
LED is a game changer, you know, and so someone like you who is not, because you would be great
with Botox too, right?
Do I think if you did Botox, you should still think about truly building collagen?
Thousand percent.
That's really important because, again, Botox does slow down the wear and tear, but Botox is not
build collagen, right?
So you want collagen production.
So that is why I love LED.
You know, we do it in the practice,
and that was the inspiration for creating an at-home product.
And then when we looked to really develop it, engineer it,
the key thing was to make a product that was easy to use,
and that translates into three minutes a day,
as opposed to 15, 18 minutes.
That's unrealistic.
And the key thing about LED is the same thing about LED is,
skin wants treatment every single day.
Once you, LED is an ingredient, right?
You don't think of it as like something like a cream or a serum, but to the skin, it works
through receptors, right, which is nothing more than just a doorway, a gateway that lets it in, right?
And there are receptors for it.
And every ingredient has a different kind of receptor, which is why I said you want to create
a cocktail of ingredients to maybe build your collagen to affirm your skin.
you want to tantalize and stimulate and use all those openings, literally all those open
doorways, you want to find different ways to feed the stimulation, to feed the skin cells
that make collagen.
So LED is an ingredient.
It's a light.
You can't really touch it.
It has no weight.
But it works through a certain mechanism that is fundamental for all ingredients.
It is probably the strongest ingredient, I think, that is that you can use right now.
off the top of my head. I think that as long as you're willing to put in the time, which is three
minutes a day, and by the way, you know, you can multitask with it. You can have your eyes open?
Yes, you can. Wow. Game changer. You're right. That was key. You know, it's snug against the
skin. It releases a really good dose of LED red light, which is proven to stimulate collagen.
And, you know, you've got to be patient. It's not like Botox where it kicks in in the finite number of
But you know what?
You really get the reward.
You start to see the results.
Four weeks.
Definitely in six.
Those before and afters aren't our box are true.
There's no fudging it.
FDA cleared it.
And that's key.
That's a bona fide way.
So I have a lot of patients who are,
maybe they don't have the Botox poisoning story,
you know,
but they're just, for reasons you just said,
that's not, it isn't.
And that's when I was trying to say,
earlier, you got to find out where, where, what's, what's in your heart? You know, people don't want a needle.
They don't want something far and injected. It's been proven to be safe over these years, you know,
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FDA review or approval. RX only. I think that red light is definitely having a moment right now. And there are
so many red light products out there. So what should people be looking for in red light? And what
sets yours apart from others on the market? So LED red is first and foremost a food and drug
administration recognized means by which collagen production is stimulated, right? That is,
and I, you know, say what you want, but there the FDA, I think, is really protecting the
consumer. So the first thing I would say is look for FDA cleared, right?
that means that the data and the product has been approved to make that claim.
It's a big deal.
Then I, so after you do that, I would say you have to really look at the instructions
because you've got to follow the instructions, you know.
And so if you're the timing, it's got to be practical.
It's got to fit into your lifestyle.
Some people may want to spend more than three minutes a day, for example.
In our research, we found that in order to get people to really,
use it and to get the results that we promise, we had to make it easy. But maybe people want
a greater experience. And that's great too. But I think the FDA clearance is number one.
So that that's what people should look for when it comes to. And not all red light.
Not anymore. Devices happen. Interesting. Uh-uh. Really important. I'm so glad we talked about
this. Yes, you have to really look for that on the label. Because read and talk about language.
Right.
So we talk about LED and then you like, you segued into red.
Oh, red light.
Right.
Well, are they really, really the same thing?
Not really.
LED red light is different than the red light on a Christmas tree.
Right.
You know?
And yet you start to see products that just shine a red light on your face, but they're
not FDA clear to say that they stimulate collagen.
Interesting.
Be careful.
I have a question around this as well.
And it's a question that a lot of my followers ask.
skincare before you use the device or do you do it with nothing on your skin and then do your
skincare after?
Nothing on your skin.
Okay.
So that it penetrates it?
Exactly.
Okay.
Exactly.
So, and it's just, don't memorize, just understand it.
If there's anything on your skin, it's going to block the penetration of these very
delicate light rays, right?
And by the way, we talk about there, there's a high enough energy to only make it required
that you need it for three minutes a day.
That's a function of the energy, right?
Right. But nonetheless, there's no heat. You don't feel, there's no chance of burning from LED. So it tells you that the, the energy, yes, it's high, but it doesn't have that kind of energy to make your skin heat up. So you put a little foundation or some sunscreen or a serum. It'll block those delicate rays. The answer is clean, dry skin. Got it. First.
And another thing that I wanted to ask, I don't know if this is a myth.
I haven't personally seen it, but people have asked me if it can affect the fat or the tissue
underneath the superficial layer of your skin in a negative way.
Not in a negative way.
Okay.
No.
It goes beyond that.
You know, sometimes it also, LED red light, like we have a larger mask on the entire face, right?
That product is great for redness as well.
You know, it's been proven to help on redness.
and then the LED blue light, any complexion problem,
it's at-home treatment for what we've been doing in the office for years.
So only healthy stuff.
Got it.
Okay, I want to talk about your skincare.
Skin care is such a vast industry now,
and it seems like everybody is coming out with their own skincare line.
How did your career inform your skincare line and how did you go about formulating that?
Right, right.
So, you know what?
My journey began when I was like 18, even younger.
So I was a science guy.
And I was called a science geek.
And I proudly, I owned it.
I just found science itself super fascinating.
And in those days, I mean, it was, there were brand new frontiers in immunology.
And I was actually a skin cancer researcher that my job and my passion was cells, you know.
And I actually work with skin cancer cells, and I learned a lot about what the disease state is,
but I also learned what the healthy state is.
In other words, when you look at cells under the microscope, which was what I did, and I grew them,
and then the cells I grew were sent out to the institution I worked at.
I was at Sloan Kettering here in New York City.
And then those cells that I grew were then sent to all the different labs within the institution
to do research on.
That's how it works.
And so my job was to grow them and to make them what I called happy.
And then I explored all the science and, you know, the nutritional things and the heat, the heat that was necessary, the right optimal,
physiological levels of oxygen and CO2 and nutritional things.
And I got a knack for it.
And I just, that started my journey.
And then so then I went to dermatology because I wanted to really care for patients.
I really, I love the lab, but I needed that human connection.
And then from there, the key thing, I think, the reason I'm so fortunate is because I learned
from my journey to be creative in science, which is a whole different, like, tangent.
You know, it's like science is not just memorization, but when you do research and you have that
exposure to expanding knowledge, to doing exploration, and to learning things that were not
not understood or that existed conceptually, you know, at that moment, you're creative. And so that's
sort of what I then apply to skincare. So, and that's what we're known for. We're known for results and
very clinical. And that is how it's the combination of what I see in my practice and one on one with
people who have issues and, you know, and stories and then selecting how to customize and how to
create products that then are universal. In other words, the peel pads, the alphabet of peel
was my first, you know. iconic product. My first, right, that was my first hit, like a Rolling
Stone song. And that was an example. You know, no one thought of a two-step peel, right? But it made
no sense to do, because a one-step peel is really just a strong exfoliator, right? A peel, chemical
peel, you know, and that word chemical and peel is still scary to people, but that's where
two steps comes in. And that was my first real creation. And it was first, a first application
of creativity and an understanding and an awareness and simple to use at home. And the results
were great. But I got, believe me, when I told people in the day that, no, you're not going to get red.
You're not going to see visible flaking. It's a micropeel. You know, slow and steady does it. You
need two steps. The pushback I got from editors, you know, said, are you crazy? There's not red,
there's no redness, no downtime. You expect me to believe I'm not going to get results. And now it's the
opposite. Yeah. But told you. How long ago was that? I was 20 years ago. 20 years ago. Wow.
Yeah. So you were way ahead at the time. Yeah. And then since then we created one for a gentle
version of it, you know, and it's for people with sensitive skin or for pregnant women. And then we
have one that's extra strength for real people, people who have oily skin or who have
who have Susan's been to customized to skincare ingredients, who want the stronger results,
seven acids as opposed to three or, and then the intermediate strength, which has a universal,
has five acids in it. So we created one for each skin type, you know, and that was, that was
when it really took off.
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There is a misconception that when it comes to hydration, it's all about drinking
enough water and while that is important, it's actually critical to ensure that we're getting enough
electrolytes as well. So electrolytes are charged minerals that conduct electricity to power your nervous
system and they also regulate hydration status by balancing fluids inside and outside your cells.
I had a nutritionist start me on electrolytes years ago to help with bloating and puffiness from
water retention and it was a game changer. So I love Element for this. Element contains potassium,
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What are the foundational ingredients that we should all be using?
in our skincare routines?
I would say I do,
so the alpha and beta hydroxy acids, love those.
How often?
I think daily.
Now, there's,
daily does it.
You know, the skin,
just like LED,
it's like how often
should you be eating right
and exercising,
right?
I'd say every day.
Skin isn't just another organ.
You know,
it's the same kind of needs
and personality
as any other organ in the body.
So that's number one.
Number two,
we talked about LED.
That's a device.
That's tech.
That is the gateway to results that are even better.
Vitamin C, love vitamin C.
I think vitamin C is truly like nature's gift to the human race.
It has an incredible ability to work on hyperpigmentation.
It's an antioxidant that helps reverse the free radicals from sun from years ago
or that just happens to occur just by normal living,
just the normal life.
As we sit here and breathe and digest,
as a byproduct of all that
worth creating free radicals,
which is partly why we age
as we live, you know.
So antioxidants like vitamin C,
great, topically applied.
I think it's a good idea
to have it in your diet,
but the amount you can put in
in a topical product
is much greater
than you can really get
by taking a 500 milligram pill,
you know,
which gets diluted
into your six-quart circulation system
that's absorbed by every organ in the body
and what's left to really go on
the skin that the skin really sees is actually not as much as you can get from a 15% L-scorbit
product which is one of one of my favorites so vitamin C love retinol retinol great you got to you got to use
it judiciously definitely need sunscreen definitely apply it at night use it when you're ready it's
not the first go-to ingredient i'd say for people you know i don't love it for 15-year-olds to be honest but
retinoles is really in the hit parade.
Hyeronic acid.
Now there, that ingredient, that first of all,
I think that it's not just about the ingredients,
it's about the delivery.
And so what we've discovered was that
hyronic acid is something that comes in different sizes,
also known as molecular weights.
So we can sort of make the different sizes.
and we did this like in our Derminfusions lip product
that gives you this plumping effect.
The whole secret to our Derminfusions category
is multiple-sized ironic acid molecules
that have the ability to literally descend
layer by layer into the skin
to give you a full, beautiful internal hydration
and plumping and balance and elasticity.
So that is one of the key ingredients,
but now it's how you deliver it to that matters.
That's a lot of the science.
And that goes back to the research I did, you know, early in my career.
Does everybody need a moisturizer as well?
Everyone needs a moisturizer.
They need the right one, though.
I think there really is a super great benefit to keeping the skin imbalance, but there are different
types of moisturizers, you know.
I'm an advocate of oil free, for example, for people who have complexion problems or
who have large pores.
or if it's really hot and muggy out,
you might want to switch it up to something lighter weight.
And then there are people who, no matter what the season is,
at night, they want that really thick, heavy moisturizer.
Great.
But I love moisturizers.
What about oils?
He said oil-free moisturizer.
Right.
So, right.
I personally, you know, looking at the data and I can go over the data,
but I like oil-free for people with complexion concerns and larger pores, right?
They already are producing an oil that's a little bit too heavy for their own good.
So instead of flowing, their oils can get a little bit waxy, a little bit thick, and cause congestion.
So an external application of an oil in that individual might not be a great thing, right?
However, there are people who have had, by the way, you know, sun damage, I hate that word damage, but you know what I mean, right?
Sun exposure to a detrimental level is certainly a way to hurt the moisture barrier,
later in life and there are people who are chronically dry skin and their skin can't create as much
internal hydration or lock it in as well. So customizing your moisturizer is really key.
But it's super important to keep your skin imbalance, you know, which is I am a big believer in that.
I don't like anything that causes, forget about, I mean, dry skin for sure, but also
interruption of the moisture barrier, you know, downtime.
You know, I don't love aggressive lasers, for example.
I never loved aggressive peels.
You know, I like daily approach and getting a job done little by little.
Yeah, I think so many people have the approach.
I don't know how it is in New York, but at least in L.A., where they want the in-office
procedures, the invasive lasers, the invasive peals, the Botox, the fillers.
And then in the in between, they're not necessarily taking care of their skin, whereas I've had so many experts on the show who have said it's really what you're doing on a daily basis, like what you are saying.
And then those other things should be, you know, used conservatively kind of as the cherry on top.
What are some lasers that you do like?
Because this is a question that I get all the time from my followers.
I have a lot of people who are in my age range, maybe 40s, you know, starting to see different concerns.
like we've talked about fine lines and wrinkles, but also the laxity and also the sun damage,
you know, coming out.
Right.
So what do you like for that?
So in my practice, well, some of the heroes, right, that we do is one laser called M22,
which is a combo.
I love combo lasers.
You know, that's just like ingredients that are cocktails, you know, which is in my approach
from day one, is to cocktail lasers.
It's the IPL laser mixed with something called research.
perfects. And so it helps with uneven skin tones and redness and hyperpigmentation. And it causes a
affirming effect on the skin, right? And the downtime, really none. So that to me is a great one.
And if you're talking about skin tone issues, hyperpigmentation, redness, you have to sort of gauge it.
And you have to talk to the person because then you have XLV laser, you know, which is a stronger
laser that can give you a little bit of downtime. And sometimes, you know what, people just
want one and done. And if it's safe for them after they're assessed, great. That's another
really good one. I really am loving Secret Pro, which is the radio frequency laser delivered
through microneedling. I like microneedling. I really do. But microneedling is really used as a
delivery system in that particular laser, you know. So the needles are, they're microscopic.
They just penetrate. And through that opening, once they're at that level into the skin, like just
below the, maybe into the top layer of the dermis, radio frequency comes in, which makes it more
beneficial than just radio frequency alone or micrneedling alone. Yeah. And a lot of it largely depends
on your body's own ability to heal. And everybody is individual when it comes to that. So it's kind of
hard to say that it's just a universal one size fits all. Correct. That's the key. If you love it,
stay with it. But know there's alternatives. Have you seen dysmorphia when it comes to people's
perceptions of themselves and when it comes to things like Botox and filler? I know that, you know,
beauty standards and just trends with social media and everything's filtered and it's hard to distinguish
what's real and what's not. And then we're seeing ourselves constantly. We weren't seeing ourselves,
you know, 10 years ago, I talk about this in my own life when Instagram stories came out
whenever that was seven, eight years ago. And suddenly I was seeing my face on video. I'd never
seen it before. I was like, huh, I noticed things that I had never noticed before. One being I
had really heavy brows. I had hooded eyes naturally and it never bothered me until I saw it. And at the
time I was in my early 30s, I guess. And I looked tired and sad all the time. And I got a brow
lift. Had that not come out, you know, had I not been seeing myself, I don't know that I would have
noticed that at that time, maybe 10 years later, I don't know. But how have you seen that in your
practice? Wow. Okay. So this is a really important responsibility that I think I have as a
practicing dermatologist. And I think that in general, you know, given this, this microphone here,
I will say that there is a responsibility that it's a slippery slope, you know,
and that people, sometimes they don't know what's best for them.
And the one thing that I have found that's really been powerful is saying no.
I don't think you need it.
And by the way, that is how I built my practice.
If I think it's not the right move or I think it's, you know,
I don't necessarily recommend doing Botox and filler the same day, for example,
or if you're going to do laser, let's see where that gets you before we go and start you on something
something else. And yeah, younger people, I'm talking about I've had lips are in, you know, and I've had
patients, I've had 15-year-old, 14-year-old girls coming into my office, young women coming into my
office who want this and that and literally will show me a photo of somebody. I love her lips,
I want her lips. And by the way,
not always is it something that is like reasonable
you know what does that mean reasonable
I think that you never
lots of people are not going to be privy to the conversation
that's that's being had by people who are looking at them
and I can and I hear this I hear that too
so I have to protect them from that
and there is you know
more better faster kind of approach to that
so saying no is important
instead of doing two syringes of filler
maybe we should do one
you know, instead of doing a heavy filler,
maybe we should do a lighter weight,
see how you feel about it, how you look,
because, you know, there was this whole movement
of reversing filler now,
taking it down with the enzyme that disintegrates it.
You can do that, but why would you want to go all that way,
it's only to regret it, spend all that money,
come back and then undo it.
It also gives you a bad start because done right,
these treatments can be beautiful.
but then you get a sort of like, you know, a bad experience and it can, then you can maybe say,
I'm not going to do it for the rest of my life, and maybe you should think about doing it later in life.
So it's a big responsibility, you know, and I think that culturally, it's really important to have this honest conversation.
Because sometimes people just don't know what's best for them and they're really asking for an honest opinion.
And I think lots of times, you know, the industry is just saying, let's do more, let's do this.
And that's not me.
Are there any innovations that you see coming down the pipeline that we may not be aware of or things that are kind of starting to make their way into the industry that you think will be beneficial?
I know like exosomes are really popular right now.
Peptides, things like that.
Yes. Okay. So the first thing is, so I have an incredible team and we read a lot.
We look at the data and we're constantly exploring and I'm seeing and listening to the patients of my practice.
and I'm also looking at what's published.
My first response, and everyone knows this is,
show me the data, right?
Let's see what the research shows.
You can't go wrong with creating products
that have really good clinical studies.
So I think that there's some exciting things.
I do think that there's a difference between,
as I mentioned, delivery and actual ingredients, right?
So we have this category of product called Derminfusions, you know.
And there's a new one that's this blur cream that people are seeing being launched now.
It's a matte finish moisturizer that still hydrates your skin, which has been the, you know,
that you've sacrificed hydration for that matte finish, which I never loved.
And it took us years to get the right formula, and we did.
But it's the delivery of ingredients that matters too, right?
And you've heard this term delivery systems, right?
That is really like what's under the hood of a car.
You know, you see the beautiful car I want.
It's like drives beautifully.
But what's going on is really, it's important to understand that how you create the formula is also super important.
And there's a lot of technology and innovation that the German fusion category, for example, has really tapped into hyoonic acid.
You know.
So I think that one of the most important.
things with that product line for me is what about people who don't want fillers?
You know, what about, and ironic acids, what's using fillers, right? Or what about people
who would love to get fillers a little less often? Or who've had fillers a couple months ago
who want to top it off and keep it fresh looking. So I'm seeing this place in skincare that
is overlapping with in-office treatments to accentuate them or slow the knee down or replace them
all together. Not everyone wants injections. So taking the same ingredient and putting in a skincare
product is one big new dimension that I'm loving. Another example, and I think that you ask peel
every day. You know, peels, when you change the pH from step one to step two in the alpha
beta peel, there is a real scientific event that's going on that has a profound effect, which is
why peels have been done by dermatologists, literally for decades, you know. But now we're also
finding that retinol, in the form of like a peel, when used as a booster to the alpha-beta
hydroxy peels, there's this thing called Synergy. Right. And that's a really important concept
that I think is the next step too. And what is synergy? Synergy is when you use two different
products and one plus one equals three, right? There's an acceleration of effect that comes from the
combination of different kinds of ingredients and products. And so we have this, this, I've found,
and now we're touting it and getting great results by using a retinal boosting perfectly dosed
pads twice a week, mixed in with the alpha, beta peel, and the skin loves that. Because you're getting
different effects. We talk about receptors and all that stuff. Different receptors, different mechanisms.
And when it all comes together, you start to see results that you would otherwise go to a practice
or a treatment center to get and you don't really need to as much or at all anymore. People
want that. It's my job to deliver the best possible results using the most cutting edge
innovations that we can put together and still be safe for all skin types and to do that for people.
So that's just another example.
And then you add things like LED, et cetera.
Amazing.
Well, I think that I can rely on you for all of my no-Botox, Botox alternatives.
Because, I mean, that's exactly what I know myself and so many people are looking for.
You know, these alternatives to in-practice treatments, either to space them out or be able to transition away from doing them and still have great-looking skin and slow down that aging process.
Totally.
Complexion too, you know, if I had to say like another thing that really does need everyday attention is any complexion problem.
And that is something that, you know, people can't come in as often to get a professional treatment when they're breaking out.
And I don't, and I'm not talking about full-blown acne necessarily, like where you would have to be, the word acne, I think, talk about language.
There are people who hear the word acne and say, but I don't eat acutane, you know.
well, that's not you're right.
But any blemish concern, I think, really needs to have attention daily.
And there, by the way, I mean, back to what we do in our shop, is we create skincare products,
understanding that as common as acne is, it is a complicated disorder, a complicated condition.
And it's not just about, like, that poor sits on top.
You know, it's all about the inflammation and the bacteria and then the redness and the elevate.
Some people just, they get these bumpy breakouts and they want things to put on there fast to bring it down.
Talk about photos, you know.
You know, that's heartbreaking when you see yourself in a photo and you couldn't cover it up with makeup.
So we're attentive to complexion problems, you know, and there the technology in our formulas really, it's not just like it takes literally,
12 ingredients, I think,
where we put in the products
to treat and prevent breakouts.
Because the breakout you see today
actually started two weeks ago,
which means that what you're destined to get in two weeks
is percolating under the skin right now invisibly.
So the idea is to get ahead of it.
So spot treatment, good for the bad ones,
but solutions done daily
is the way to really get ahead of it
and then use different ingredients
for the different components of breakouts
is also really important.
I'm thinking that's another big frontier that we crossed.
Amazing.
Well, tell everybody where they can get your products and follow along.
Okay, right.
So, okay, first of all, we have our products full.
Everything's in Sephora all across the country.
We're launching worldwide or no.
I'm sure people are listening to you all over the world.
And we are rolling it out.
You can also get on our website, Dr. Dennisgross, skincare.com,
and information about my practices on Dennisgrossmd.com.
and stay tuned because we're really,
I enjoy these conversations
do understand how important it is
for people to get a best picture of what's going on
and to make decisions for themselves.
And there's a lot.
And by the way,
we are living in the golden age right now.
What we're doing now,
compared to what we can do from 10 years ago,
you talked about peptides,
amazing, you know,
back to dermofusions,
it's in there,
the science yielded it,
but it's exciting.
You know,
so I hope people aren't bombing
out, thinking they're seeing things, because now there's so much you can do. It's just about really
getting the right ingredients and knowing what you need and having that moment of just education
and good science. Well, thank you for sharing all of that with us and sharing an optimistic
viewpoint of it all because I know it does get really overwhelming. So, you know, episodes like this
I know are so helpful for my audience. And, you know, really it's like you can scale it back. I think
everyone thinks you have to be doing the most and it's it's not necessarily about that it's about
doing the right things 100% and don't forget multitasking you know i will tell you that
one of the most pleasurable things i do is when i create a product i know that people are
going to get this product for the primary reason it's being marketed and developed but when you
put in secondary benefits right immediate results radiance and so if you're looking at
for something that whatever it is, you know, immediate results will always be seen in the
way we formulate. And then hyperpigmentation, if that's even a little bit of that problem,
while you're treating your breakouts or your fine lines, we're going to put ingredients in there.
We even put ingredients, by the way, that have built in water softners, you know, because hard water's
a thing. And so very little fanfare. We put ingredients in there that have that in effect to
bring down calcium levels in the water systems that you may be washing your face with, for example.
Amazing.
Yeah.
We thought of everything.
We're still working on everything, but we got a lot of good stuff.
Thank you so much for coming.
I hope you enjoyed that episode.
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