ZOE Science & Nutrition - Is Dark Chocolate Good for Weight Loss?
Episode Date: March 10, 2022This plant has been used by human beings for thousands of years with samples found in 5000-year-old pottery discovered in the upper Amazon. The Mayans considered it a gift from the gods and used it in... their sacred ceremonies, where it was believed to have mystical healing powers. For the Aztecs, it was worth more than gold and given to their victorious warriors. We are talking, of course, about chocolate. Even though our relationship with chocolate spans thousands of years we still can’t agree about it. It seems obvious that something so delicious must be bad for us. Can there be any truth to the claims that chocolate can improve our mood, our health and even our libido? Jonathan speaks to Professor Tim Spector, one of the world's top 100 most cited scientists and author of the diet myth, and Spencer Hyman, one of the world’s leading chocolate experts and founder of the craft chocolate business Cocoa Runners. Download our FREE guide — Top 10 Tips to Live Healthier: https://zoe.com/freeguide Timecodes: 00:00 - Intro 00:10 - Jonathan’s introduction 01:19 - Lighting round questions, with true/false answers 05:49 - Why certain chocolates might be good 06:34 - What is fermentation? 09:54 - Which kinds of chocolates are good or bad for you? 12:14 - How to figure out the differences in chocolates 14:12 - Why is are chocolates classified the way they are 16:20 - Considerations about dark chocolate 20:38 - Personalized responses to chocolate 23:39 - On chocolate addiction 24:55 - How to taste chocolate 28:10 - Is smell an indicator as to what happens in our microbiomes? 31:52 - 3 things you should know when buying chocolate 33:17 - Description of chocolate in nature 37:15 - Sugar in chocolate 40:29 - Is fruit and nut milk chocolate healthier than dark chocolate? 41:27 - How much chocolate do you need for it to be beneficial? 42:59 - Should I watch out for lecithins in chocolate? 44:52 - Is eating half a bar of chocolate before bed a bad idea? 46:24 - Goodbyes & Outro Follow ZOE on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/zoe/ This podcast was produced by Fascinate Productions.
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Welcome to ZOE Science and Nutrition, where world leading scientists explain how their
research can improve your health.
This plant has been used by human beings for thousands of years with samples found in 5,000
year old pottery discovered in the upper Amazon.
The Mayans considered it a gift from the gods and used it in their sacred ceremonies where
it was believed to have mystical healing powers.
For the Aztecs it was worth more than gold and given to their victorious warriors.
Today this plant fills shelves around the world.
We gift it to our loved ones to express our feelings or help ourselves through hard times.
I'm talking, of course, about chocolate. Even though our relationship with
chocolate spans thousands of years, we still can't agree about it. It seems
obvious that something so delicious must be bad for us. Can there be any truth to
the claims that chocolate can improve our mood, our health and even our libido?
Well today we look to the latest science to find out. I'm joined by Tim Spector, my scientific co-founder at Zoe and one of the top 100 most cited scientists
in the world, and Spencer Hyman, one of the world's leading chocolate experts and founder
of the craft chocolate business, Coco Runners.
Wonderful to have you both.
So just to kick off, I thought we'd try and do something different, which we haven't done
before, because there's a lot of myths and stories about chocolate.
And so I thought we could try and hit a whole bunch of them very fast with a lightning round of true or false answers.
And if you just each answer to that, and we'll go around and kick this off.
So first question, chocolate causes acne.
True or false?
False.
False. False.
I've never seen any studies for that.
All right.
So Tim and Spencer say no.
So next one.
Chocolate is high in caffeine.
False.
There is a small trace element.
It's theobromine, which chocolate has in it.
Yes, I agree.
There you go.
So we already established Spencer's expertise in chocolate.
That's good.
Dark chocolate is healthier than milk chocolate.
I'm going to sit on the fence on that one
because it depends how you do your milk chocolate.
There's something called dark milk chocolate,
which actually has no added sugar to it.
So you can actually have less added sugar to that
than you can to some dark chocolates.
Fascinating.
We will come back to this one for sure.
Brilliant.
And next one, chocolate is bad for your heart.
False. Definitely false.
Unless it's got lots of sugar in it, which is another
issue. Yeah, correct.
Yeah, depends on the type of chocolate,
but the good chocolates,
it's not bad for your heart.
We can talk about the Una a bit later, that
great tribe of people who sort of have
this extraordinary ability to drink like 17
cups of chocolate a day, eat fish, and have amazingly healthy hearts as a consequence, which is where a lot of this stuff sort of have this extraordinary ability to drink like 17 cups of chocolate a day,
eat fish and have amazingly healthy hearts as a consequence, which is where a lot of this stuff sort of comes from. But yeah. Chocolate causes headaches. False. There is a small study that
shows that one of the things inside chocolate is something called PEA. And there is a tiny bit
of evidence. Well, there's a few studies which suggest that for people who can't break down PEA,
that may be the case, but it's a real exception.
There's only been like two or three studies done on it.
As a general rule of thumb, Tim is right again.
Tim, possibly a personalized response in some people
or you just don't believe it?
Well, there's always exceptions to rules.
So I'm sure you'll never say never,
but as a general rule, there is a general to rules. So I'm sure you never say never. But as a general rule,
there is a general myth that chocolates cause migraine. And generally, they do not. Studies
have disproven that myth. Doesn't mean anyone can't get a headache with any particular food or
product. But I don't think there's any general risk of chocolate migraine, for example,
or really bad headaches. Got it. So there might be a whole bunch of other foods for other people that gives you a migraine.
So the idea that chocolate in general is a problem.
They've done placebo controlled studies. And there's no difference in those
studies to provoke migraines and people who thought they were sensitive to it. So
I think it's generally been disproven.
Brilliant. Spencer, good for your business.
Yeah, it is good. It's just literally anybody who can't
break down pea but as you say that will occur with lots of other foods but it is specifically
people who have a problem with pea who do have a problem with chocolate because
chocolate's got lots of pea in it brilliant next question you can eat as much dark chocolate as
you want without worrying about it i would say that's not true. You always worry about eating unlimited
amounts of anything, because you need to have a balanced diet and eat something else as well. So
I'm interested in Spencer things you can live forever on just chocolate, but I think that'd
be unlikely. You would be right that you need a bit of variety too. I mean, maybe one of the
next questions is going to be is chocolate addictive. And the sign for this is that it's
almost impossible for people to actually eat enough chocolate for it to become addictive.
So I don't think you can eat too much chocolate for it, for example, to become addictive.
But you definitely, you would not want to just eat chocolate.
That would not be a good idea.
A little bit of chocolate has other advantages.
Brilliant.
And last question in this lightning round.
Is it true that your gut bacteria like chocolate?
Yes, I think they generally do like chocolate. If it's good quality, it has lots of cocoa and not so many of the other ingredients.
Most of the average chocolates, I think they probably wouldn't like, but they are going to like high quality chocolate.
It's full of great nutrients and
polyphenols and other things which your gut will love. But if it's mass produced chocolate,
it's going to unfortunately be full of sugar, which is not necessarily the best thing for your
gut. I'd like to share something exciting. Back in March 2022, we started this podcast to uncover
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lives. We've spoken to leading scientists around the world doing amazing research.
And across hundreds of hours of conversations, they've revealed key insights that can help you
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in the show notes. And do let me know what you think of it. Okay, back to the show.
So Tim, talk a bit more.
I think we just started talking about something I think is really interesting, right?
Which is you're already saying both of those lots of different types of chocolate, which
I think we'll come on to, but also like how it relates to these microbes in your gut.
Can you talk a bit more about why certain chocolates might be good?
What's going on with these gut microbes?
Yeah, so you forget exactly what chocolate's made of,
but it all comes from a plant that is fermented to give it great complexity.
So it's a mixture of fiber and protein and lots of essential nutrients
and these defense chemicals that are in the plant called polyphenols.
And by fermenting it with microbes
when it's laid out in these hot tropical areas,
this breaks down the plant into lots of chemicals
and these protective chemicals,
polyphenols are retained in the chocolate.
And so when you eat them,
are then liberated in your gut.
And these are like rocket fuel for your gut microbes.
And Tim, will you just remind everybody what fermentation is? Because you talked about that
being a critical bit, and I'm sure that we'll have Spencer coming in a bit about this.
Yeah, sure. The fermentation is a very general word that's used widely, but it means
really food that is broken down by microbes to produce other types of food or chemicals. And so this happens when you make cheese or making beer or wine,
and it also happens within our own guts all the time.
And so this is happening with chocolate, which is, I guess,
people think about that for cheese,
but I think most of us don't think about that with chocolate.
Indeed, yeah.
Most people aren't really aware where chocolate comes from
or how exactly it's made.
I thought from the grocery store, I have to admit, that's probably it.
Most people think it grows on trees, but it does actually.
So the process is very strange.
And this very complex way of actually making chocolate, by which it's dried and which we
can discuss more about, but microbes break it down and produce much more
complexity than people think. And so all the flavors are produced from these complex chemicals
of the interaction between microbes in the forest or wherever the pods are left to ferment,
getting into the cocoa, and then that stays in that product, in artisan chocolate at least,
and those polyphenols, these defense chemicals,
which are the same ones you find in other healthy foods like nuts and seeds,
generally are retained in the chocolate.
And then when you eat it, they go all the way down to the lower intestine
and they will then meet your gut microbes.
And that interaction between the fiber that's still left in the chocolate,
and there is fiber in there, plus these polyphenols make microbes happy, they interact
with it to produce other chemicals, which we believe are generally good for your body,
for your immune system, for your digestion, your mental health, etc, etc. So it's that complex
interplay between the very complex chemistry of
what actually is in chocolate, also the complex things that are going on in your own gut, that
create this healthy effect, if you've got a greater proportion of the healthy things in chocolate
compared to the unhealthy parts of the mass manufactured processed chocolates. So it's getting that balance right.
Because on the other hand, if you go and get highly processed chocolates, mass produced ones,
they will add in all kinds of extra chemicals to bind it together, flavoring, sweeteners. And we
know now that artificial sweeteners, so-called emulsifiers, which like a glue to keep things together, are bad for your gut microbes and will actually counteract any of the benefits that you might have been seeing. qualities that have different effects on your body, not only just the percentage of sugar,
but also all the other ingredients that go into making lots of mass produced chocolates.
Whereas Spencer will tell you, you know, good chocolate has the least number of ingredients.
So eating glue is bad. That makes a lot of sense.
I guess I hadn't really thought about chocolate potentially being glue. What's the line and how much of the chocolate that we might see in the grocery store is good chocolate?
How much is bad?
How do we actually figure that out?
So I think the simple answer to that is that if you compare it to coffee,
it's very easy in the case of coffee to tell the difference between instant coffee and a roasted bean.
And you can get there's a
different process going on similarly if you look at a chicken nugget and you look at a roast chicken
most people can tell the difference when you look at two bars of chocolate it's actually a little
bit harder and you have to do it in a slightly different way but to get to the answer to your
question which is is most chocolate sold in supermarkets going to be good for you unfortunately
the answer is no it's not going to be good for you because it's going to be mass processed. It will have been hydrolyzed in most
cases. It will have been fermented because otherwise you can't get any of the flavour out
of it, but it will have been not very well fermented. And then it will have been roasted
in such a way, basically, they take the shells off before they roast. And that means that it
won't have any flavour because none of the pyrozoans are able to develop. And consequently,
you need to add lots of additives to it.
And then above all, the way that most people sort of get you interested in chocolate,
to use a euphemism, is they add lots of sugar,
they add lots of fats, they add lots of additives,
and they're trying to get you to scoff it rather than to savour it.
So does that mean, Spencer, at the end of the day,
like the amount of like real chocolate that's left in this thing is really small. It's a bit like other processed foods we might think about where it's been
smashed to pieces. There's very little left that is the sort of things that Tim is talking about.
It's ultra processed. I mean, most chocolate is ultra processed. So what will happen,
in fact, most chocolate is made, you know, the same way that a chicken nugget is made,
in the sense that the chocolate maker actually doesn't get the beans.
He basically buys in something which has already been ready-made,
and it will have been highly pulverised and processed.
And at every step of the process, whether it be the fermentation,
whether it be the drying, whether it be the roasting,
whether it be the conching, it will be done for efficiency and scale,
not for flavour, because what you're going to do is use additives later
to create that. So as Tim said, the most important thing to do when you buy a bar of chocolate
is actually look at the list of ingredients. And if it's got stuff which is not recognizable by
your grandmother, even if it's something like vanilla, and if it's a dark chocolate bar,
be skeptical because they're using that to actually cover up the fact that there isn't
much flavor otherwise.
How do we figure out a bit more what these differences in chocolate are at a high level?
What's the difference between dark chocolate and milk chocolate?
What do we actually see on the grocery store?
What's the reality out there?
The first thing is that most of the chocolates on sale in the US and the UK and English speaking countries are milk chocolates.
And what people often don't realize is how little cocoa bean is actually in those products.
And best selling right in the Canada, the UK, Australia is Cadbury's dairy milk, which has something around 23, 24% cocoa content, and was nearly made to be refused status as a chocolate a few years ago by the European Union, because it didn't
make standards, because below 30%, I think, was what they were considering. You couldn't call it
a chocolate. And something like Hershey's? Hershey's is around 12%. I think it does vary
with the different types, but it's even less than that. And Spencer just remind me about Bourneville.
Do you want to tell us about Bourneville Plain, which was one of the first so-called dark
chocolates brought to the English market? Spencer, tell us about Bourneville. It's less than 40%
cocoa. And that's mainly cocoa solids, very little cocoa
butter is added to it. So we can go back into what those ones are later but yeah I mean technically
to be called chocolate in Europe it needs to have at least 20% chocolate whether it's a milk or a
dark chocolate in the States that's actually 10% so that's where it sort of goes from and most
confectionery will have way less than 30% or 40% chocolate inside it.
It'll be mainly sugar.
It's amazing, really, right?
So if I bought milk, I'd be pretty disappointed if it was only 20% milk.
Or if I bought steak, it's 30% steak.
I would feel entirely cheated.
But that is pretty shocking.
Why is that?
And at what point, What about the other end?
You know, when we start to think about dark chocolate, when does it start to become classified
as dark chocolate? And indeed, what's the difference between dark chocolate and milk chocolate?
So taking that last question first, technically, the difference is that milk chocolate has milk
in it. Slightly confusingly, a number of dark chocolates also have milk in it. You have to
look at the ingredient list to check that because often dark chocolates will have a bulk or a filling agent
like whey powder in it. So they're not suitable for vegans. But in theory, dark chocolate should
not have milk in it, but milk chocolate should have milk in it. So I think though that what you
want to look for is the list of ingredients. And as Tim said, it should be less
is more. But I think your questions as to why is there so much stuff added to chocolate is part of
the problem that chocolate has, which is that on the one hand, chocolate is an amazing set of
flavours in and of itself. It has more complexity of flavour and taste and texture than just about
anything on the planet, including red wine. On the other hand, it's also an extraordinarily good vector for other flavours. In fact, arguably,
it was the first Bliss Point food. So by Bliss Point, you know, you guys all know this because
you're food experts, but the idea that, you know, if you combine sugar, salt and fat, we all suddenly
become unable to resist it. Really, the first product to do that was in many ways milk chocolate
with Nestle and Daniel Peter back in the 19th century. And that's what really made chocolate take
off.
Hence these like low fraction of chocolate in the bar, lots of milk, lots of sugar, it
gives you this combination of some of the chocolate taste, but then so the sugar and
the fat, which just triggers all of these things that make you want to eat more in a
way which is very rarely found in nature.
Is that what you're saying with the bliss point?
Yeah, exactly.
And chocolate is an extremely good vector for other flavors and tastes and sensations.
So that's what it's become used for.
Not only is it the chocolate bar which is used in that way,
but chocolate is added to other products like ice cream or like cakes, etc. Because it. Tim, at what point does this dark chocolate start to be good for us?
And maybe we can talk a little bit about personalized responses,
because this is one of the Zoe scores that we definitely look at carefully
as we're figuring out whether we can do this.
Yeah, so there's no real consensus about what level of cocoa it starts to be healthy,
but it seems to have fallen into this general area above 70% is where most
people seem to do that line. But I'm not sure there's much science about saying 65% is bad and
75% is good. But certainly the more you've got cocoa, it means generally the better, the more
fiber and the more polyphenols, the more good stuff you've got in there. So in general, you want to be getting up towards that high percentage if you can,
particularly if you are having chocolate on a regular basis. And as we've all learned,
you can train yourself very easily to move up from Cadbury's dairy milk to darker chocolates
progressively, even if when you make that
first switch, it seems quite hard. So everyone's aspiration should be to try and get their cocoa
percentage up and work out where their own personal threshold is, because everyone will
taste things differently. And so we'll have their own sort of personal bliss point, if you like.
But I think that's what people should aim for. Obviously, there are some exceptions,
because if it's got nuts in it or other ingredients, it makes it quite hard to work out
what the total cocoa content is. So Spencer might know how to advise people on whether,
once you start adding in nuts into it, for example, whether that invalidates the percentage
scores. Although I would say that adding nuts,
I particularly do like nut chocolate.
I know Spencer doesn't agree with me on that one.
But maybe it's good from a health perspective, but as a connoisseur, perhaps that's a different perspective, right?
The nut chocolate specifically is whether or not that gets in the way
of appreciating some of the other nuances of the chocolate.
But on the other hand, nuts and chocolate is an amazing combination because you get lots of texture from it.
It is very healthy for you. And as well, different nuts can bring out different flavours. But I think,
I mean, the main advice is that whenever you buy a bar of chocolate, if the first ingredient
is not to do with cocoa, be very sceptical, whether it be a milk chocolate, whether it be
a dark chocolate. And I think the second one of which is try and train yourself to savour rather than to scoff. Because to my mind, the reason why I think,
we should get your perspective, Jonathan and Tim's on this, the reason why I think chocolate
is a good thing to eat is that I think for most people, after a meal, they actually want something
sweet. There is this sort of wonderful idea of what the Japanese call satsubara, or second stomach. And what it seems to suggest is that even when we are quite full, we've had a
whole meal, our bodies actually like having something a little bit sweet, like some chocolate,
whether it be dark or milk, because it actually aids digestion. And you can actually see if you
take an MRI of somebody after they've had a meal, and they're saying that they're very full,
if you show them some chocolate or a bit of chocolate cake, you'll actually sort of see
their stomach move a bit so they can digest a bit more. My kids have always argued that they
have a second stomach for dessert. So I love the idea that there actually is a scientific
second stomach for dessert. It's being done live on Japanese TV. And what most people find is if
you savour a little bit of chocolate, it does sit and it does fill you up very nicely. And that to
me is one of the strong health arguments for chocolate, which is it's much better to have
that than it is to go and scoff some sort of, you know, like low fat vanilla yoghurt, which has
actually got seven times the amount of sugar in it that a chocolate bar will have. I have to let
Tim say he's looking slightly sceptical on the second stomach,
so I definitely wanted to have a chance to...
Oh, I'm a big believer in the Mr Creosote effect.
I think it was the wafer-thin mint at the end of the big meal
that doesn't always work.
No, I think variety is the thing that produces increased appetite.
So that's where humans are always looking to get variety into our taste buds.
That's really interesting. Sort of talking about sort of personalized responses,
you talked a lot about the way that you're getting over 70%, you're starting to get,
you know, all these polyphenols and everything that really supports your microbes. I think this
is one of these things, we also saw a lot of variety in response when we were doing the sort
of Zoe predict studies, right, Tim, and we see this also in our own personal scores. I managed to just
squeak 50 out of 100 for dark chocolate, which is great news because 50 and above means I'm allowed
to eat regularly. Whereas my score for milk chocolate is only 34. So significantly lower.
And this is one of those things that made me think okay so dark chocolate is almost the only sort of bad thing that i'm still allowed to do tim how did you turn
out disappointingly worse than you jonathan so i only scored 44 on uh dark chocolate and 22 on
milk chocolate so i have to be really careful it really means that milk chocolate which i've
virtually given it up tastings with
spencer go for dark chocolate and i that score was for an average between 70 and 85 percent i reckon
if i go more towards the 80 i can get my score up a little bit and have more of it no no that that
makes sense and there's lots of people with much higher scores for the dark chocolate as well i
think both of us have quite poor blood sugar control, right?
And so this is one of the big challenges with chocolate is the sugar that's mixed in with it,
as well as also if you have, you know, there's quite a lot of fat.
So if you have more issues with fat control, so we see very wide variety in response.
But I think in all cases, the dark chocolate being a lot better than the milk for the reasons, Tim, that you were explaining.
Yeah. So I think I'm at the worst end of the spectrum.
So I think most people will be doing probably better than both of us,
Jonathan, I think.
Well, but your microbes always save you, Tim, which is...
Your microbes save me.
Your microbes save you, as always.
I think we're starting to touch a lot on chocolate.
I know Spencer is keen to talk more about what's going on.
I thought it might be fun actually to start with the end product of chocolate before all the boring
technical stuff about how it happens. And since we're lucky enough to have Spencer here,
he could actually tell us how to taste chocolate. And so I thought that this was, how great was it
that I had a job where I actually had an excuse to eat chocolate in the middle of the day.
So I actually brought some chocolate. And of course, I brought some chocolate from Spencer because Spencer's the man who got
me addicted to chocolate over the last decade.
For those of you who don't know Spencer, he's sort of like a chocolate pusher.
So whenever you meet him, he takes out of his rucksack like a bar of chocolate and presses
it on you.
And you think it's just he's really generous.
But what you realize is it's just gateway drug.
It's sort of like a drug dealer starting you off. And you're like, oh, I don't even know if I like it this much. We tried a bit. No, it's just he's really generous but what you realize is it's just gateway drug it's sort of like a drug dealer you know starting you off and you're like oh i don't even know if i like it this
much we tried a bit yeah that's okay and then after uh after a few months you start to be you
know what i really start to like this uh and then you're addicted so um you have to be careful if
if spencer offers you chocolate talk us through i've got some here tim and spencer do you have
do you have some chocolate that you can uh yeah we can maybe taste together yeah I've got some here. Tim and Spencer, do you have some chocolate that you can maybe taste together?
Yeah, we've got some.
We can all sort of do it in a slightly different way.
So the one thing I would just sort of pick up on this,
I don't believe technically you can get addicted to chocolate.
I think you're addicted to the additives inside it.
And we've done quite a lot of work done on that.
Anyway, here's how you should taste chocolate.
This is what my drug pusher says to me as well, isn't it?
If you get the pure stuff, you'll be all right.
That's right.
Okay, so for two seconds.
So, for example, you do get addicted to caffeine.
If you have like four large cups of coffee a day for four weeks,
at the end of that, you will get the jitters when you come off it.
Similarly, you do get addicted to sugar.
You definitely get addicted to all sorts of different class substances.
With chocolate, you would actually have to eat the equivalent of about a kilogram of chocolate a day for 10 weeks to get any sort of the withdrawal effects from theobromine.
So it's technically phenomenally hot.
You can definitely get addicted to the sugar in chocolate.
But theobromine, which is the active ingredient inside chocolate, is not, as far as anybody's ever shown, addictive.
So it's not the chocolate which is addictive. It may be the sensations to it which arises,
which is great pleasure and great flavors and other stuff, but not that. But anyway,
let's get back to tasting chocolate. Hi, I have a small favor to ask. We want this podcast to reach as many people as possible
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from today's information, it would mean a great deal to me thank you got it so i'm not truly addicted i just like it so much that i need to keep eating it yeah it's
not like alcohol it's not like alcohol so take a piece of chocolate uh and do look at it the most
important thing to do with the piece of chocolate before you eat it is to actually snap it so if
you snap a piece of chocolate i'm'm going to snap this in front of
the microphone so you can hopefully hear that. Okay, that was a pretty good snap. So that snap
is really, really important because what it actually says is that the chocolate's been
properly tempered and it's going to melt in your mouth and release all those aromas and
volatiles and flavors. And if you want to sort of practice at this, a good trick is actually to hold your nose
before you grab a piece of chocolate, take a piece of chocolate and stick it on your
tongue.
And this is what we make everybody do when they come to one of our chocolate tastings,
because it's a very good way of actually explaining the unique aspect of being human and actually
being able to understand the difference between retronasal and olfornasal flavours and olfaction.
If you take a piece of chocolate, you put it on your mouth, you can chew it a bit, you can do whatever you want with it. Now what you will discover
is that you don't get many sensations from it. You may get a little bit of taste, you may get a
little bit of sweetness, you make a little bit of sadness, etc. But by the time it's melted,
what should happen when you release your nose, is it melting for you all yet?
Is that suddenly when you breathe that through your mouth,
having got a piece of chocolate in it,
what should suddenly happen is you should be accosted by a whole wave of aromas and flavours.
And what that's showing is that the amazing thing about chocolate
is that when you put it in your mouth, it melts.
That's because it's been properly tempered,
which goes back to the snap idea.
And it's literally the only substance that we have, which when we put it in our mouths, melts.
I know you can say that ice cream does, but it actually melts before you get it in your mouth.
So chocolate has this extraordinary ability, thanks to cocoa butter,
when it's tempered to crystal structure 5, to melt.
And that releases all the flavour volatiles.
And because human beings can detect flavour, not just through our noses,
but also through our mouths because of retronasal olfaction, chocolate is an amazing way of describing that.
Well, so for people who aren't, not everybody listening, obviously, is able to have the chocolate at the same time.
The first thing I can tell you is eating chocolate while holding your nose is very disappointing, right, Tim?
There was really no pleasure from that experience, agree?
No, it's a waste of time. And the second thing is very nice when you stop holding your nose in general,
and even better because then suddenly you've got melted chocolate in your mouth
that you can start to taste.
And at that stage, it would have melted in your mouth,
so it would be reducing the volatiles.
And actually, that is back to it, back to Tim's point about looking at the list.
Sugar, salt, and fat.
Sugar, you know, the sort of stuff that's in, you know, dairy milk or in a
Bournville, or any of those other bars, sugar basically will hit your nervous system in six
tenths of a second. So you will get the hit from those very quickly. Whereas with chocolate,
good chocolate bars, it will take a lot longer, five to 10 to 15 seconds. So you need to train
yourself to savor. So that's sort of, you know, the first bit, you should have a bit of fun with
chocolate. And then the second bit of advice is always have a couple of different chocolates on the go
at any one time, because the amazing thing about chocolate is that good craft chocolate,
artisan chocolate, they will all taste and have completely different flavours,
because it has more variety. It's what we'd all love to do with wine, which is have a couple of
glasses of wine on the go at the same time. But it's difficult. With chocolate, it's actually very easy.
You can just crack open a couple of bars, share them with friends, and then you can get into all those different flavors.
Fantastic. Well, I definitely enjoyed the taste of that chocolate.
Tim, is what we're smelling also linked to what's going to go on when it hits the gut and all those bacteria get all the good stuff?
Or are these two sort of completely separate things?
Separate but related.
Obviously, the greater the complexity of the smells gives you a hint
as to all the different chemicals you're getting.
And I think the better the chocolate is made, just like any food,
you'll get this complexity of smells rather than just one strong flavor,
which is often artificial.
You're getting this complex a
bit like a fine wine that is developing on the palate and that tells you that you're likely to
get lots of good chemicals that will also reach your gut microbes so i think that's they're broadly
related and so it's a pretty good test of quality and humans have evolved to actually have pretty
good palates if we take the
time to use them. I think actually that point about sniffing a chocolate bar is actually a
very important one because the way that most mass-produced chocolate is made is such that
it is using tastes rather than flavours and you can't smell a taste. So you know, sweetness,
sugar actually doesn't have a smell. And what
you're actually going to get when you get a good dark chocolate or a good even good milk chocolate
is you're going to get lots of different aromas. And interestingly, chocolate, unlike, for example,
coffee, actually retronasally and orthonasally, you will tend to like the smell and like the
flavour at the same time, which isn't always the same thing with coffee. Lots of people like the
smell of coffee, but can't necessarily eat it. But the other thing I would sort of say is that
in craft chocolate, in artisan chocolate, the way the sugar is used is very different. So
in a sort of cheap chocolate bar, you're actually using the sugar as the main delight, the main
thing which is going to get you going. Whereas as Tim points out in craft chocolate, what's
actually happening is that it's the different polyphenols,
it's the different pyrazones, it's all the different aromas which cocoa has within it
after it's been fermented and dried and roasted, which actually give it all the fun. And what you
use sugar for is a little bit like you'd use salt on meat. You can actually use sugar to bring out
those flavours. So if you actually get somebody to compare the same chocolate but with slightly
different amounts of sugar, they will have completely different flavor profiles because it's just bringing them out in a different way
but if you're using you know a chocolate where the primary ingredient is sugar all you're really
going to get is the sugar and let's get a little geeky for a minute because it's fun but spence
you can't spend an hour on this tell us a bit about like how this works so we were talking
before i think uh about this idea that maybe 70% plus
actual cocoa is a sign that this is probably a good dark chocolate. It's going to start to
give you all this positive complexity that supports your microbiome. That's fantastic.
But we've also said, hey, actually, there's difference that all of this is processed,
but there's somehow a difference between what's going to allow this to still be a product that has got some health benefits to sort of perhaps balance out some of this sugar and everything else.
But it sort of depends.
So talk us through a bit, like how do you go from this plant in the jungle, right?
Somewhere to something that is, you know, in all cases, a bar that really doesn't look very much like a plant at all and help us understand a bit about
what's going on there and therefore how we can figure out not only by buying a product from you
clearly but let's say you go to the grocery store we've got to be practical what helps us to identify
the sort of stuff that actually you know day-to-day we could be eating it is a it's a nice treat I'm
even if you say I'm not addicted I'm addicted what's going on and how can we we sort of recognize
something that we should feel good about eating so I think let's start with the last point which even if you say I'm not addicted, I'm addicted. What's going on and how can we sort of recognise something
that we should feel good about eating?
So I think let's start with the last point,
which is how do you identify something good?
There are basically three things you should look at
whenever you buy a chocolate bar.
The first thing is the ingredients
and the first ingredient should not be sugar.
It should be chocolate.
Whether that's a milk chocolate
or whether that's a dark chocolate,
even a white chocolate.
When we sell white chocolates, the first ingredient is always going to be cocoa or cocoa butter.
And you don't want to have a bunch of additives and stuff that your grandmother wouldn't recognise.
And we'll come back onto that in a sec.
The second thing you'd really like to know is actually where do the beans come from?
Because that's quite important because it has all sorts of flavour implications,
as well as also having all sorts of socio-economic
implications, which we maybe can touch on in a sec. And then finally, you want to know where
it's made, because as I said, most chocolate is actually made rather like chicken nuggets,
not made like, you know, the way that you'd sort of make a roast chicken. And this sort of, I think,
so you want to know literally where is it being made. So, you know, the bar that you have in
front of you, Jonathan, you know, the beans there come from a small bit of
Colombia called Aralco, and they are sailed over on a ship, as you delight, to Mike Longman at
Chocolata down in Cornwall. But what they're trying to do is bring out the flavour of the
chocolate. And I think, you know, I think you've covered in other aspects of the podcast, what is
ultra-processed food and how does that work? And in a way, what you want to try and do is get to what we call craft chocolate, which is not ultra-processed.
And every step of the way, those, you know, craft chocolate is different to mass-produced
ultra-processed chocolate. So the very first step, as Tim sort of said, is, you know, remember,
chocolate is a fruit. You know, it does grow on trees. It looks a bit strange. So for those of
you who can't see it at home, I'm holding up something which looks like a small rugby football
and it's got lots of different colors on it and they are
wonderful colors and when you open it up it tends to look uh rather like something like an alien i
don't know if you've ever seen this tim obviously will because where he's been in costa rica but
you have these sort of rather sort of strange white seeds covered in a pulp and as tim said
at the beginning the magic of chocolate and and those just described, they're like about an inch long, three centimetres, is that about the...
Yeah, they're about an inch long, maybe a little bit less. You have about 25 to 50 of them
in a pod, which is about enough to make one chocolate bar. And as an aside, you actually
need one and a half thousand to 2000 litres of water to grow one of these pots. So you need a
lot of it, which is why chocolate,
if it involves deforestation, is so disastrous.
But these seeds are incredibly bitter.
If you put one of these in your mouth and you try and eat it,
it is incredibly bitter and astringent.
And Tim, that is your polyphenols that you're talking about, isn't it,
that you were talking about earlier, I guess?
The chemicals that give you that astringency,
that really quite bitter very bitter
taste are all these defense chemicals which are good for the plant and if you use them right good
for us as well but they are defense chemicals stop other insects eating them and other plants
eating them directly yeah and it's the magic of fermentation which turns these incredibly bitter and astringent
seeds into cocoa beans because what happens is all the way through so the first thing happens
that is fermentation and that's a you know a yeast-based reaction with the sugars in the
pulp reacting to create a fermentation but all the way through whether you're fermenting whether
you're drying those are the first few tests that you have on the farm.
And what's actually happening is,
is that you're creating heat.
And what heat does is it basically breaks down
the pyrosomes and the polyphenols in the chocolate
to start releasing aromas,
which we can then detect later in the process.
So after the chocolate,
the cocoa seed has been fermented and then dried,
it will then generally get sorted.
And most of the time it will then get sent to a factory.
And this is where the first big differences start to occur
because for mass produced chocolate,
you don't really care about the fermentation
or about the drying
because you're going to add flavour in later.
But for craft chocolate, artisan chocolate,
you can create all sorts of different flavours,
just as you can with wine.
The different fermentations you're going to have
will make a huge difference as does the drying. And then when it gets to the factory, you have to make a decision. And the
first decision is, are you going to go for efficiency? And if you go for efficiency,
you take the skins off the nibs of the beans off and then roast it because it's a bit more
efficient. But if you do that, you lose the ability to control much of the flavour. So that's
not what craft chocolate does. So what craft chocolate will do is it will roast the beans
for about 20 to 30 minutes.
And then again, the heat,
to gain mild reactions,
it'll bring out more flavours.
Then what you'll do is
you'll take the shell off.
You'll do what's called winnowing and conching,
which is to grind it into a paste,
into a smooth paste.
Tim actually has,
he's trying actually what we call
a stone ground chocolate,
which hasn't been conched.
But again, it's heat, which is being applied at this point, and then you'll temper it,
and then you'll turn it into a bar.
Now with mass processed chocolate, they'll use a whole bunch of other technologies, which
you wouldn't be able to do at home.
Again, it's like ultra processed food, like they'll hydrolyze it.
They will add a lot of other stuff to it that you wouldn't really want.
They'll often actually not add cocoa butter, but what they'll do is they'll add vegetable
fats and palm oils and stuff like PGPRs. that you wouldn't really want. They'll often actually not add cocoa butter, but what they'll do is they'll add vegetable fats
and palm oils and stuff like PGPRs.
And then we can also talk a little bit about,
you know, lecithins and other glues,
which are definitely problematic.
But in the end, what you'll have,
if you have a good artisan chocolate
or, you know, a reasonable chocolate,
you will have hopefully some of the flavour of cacao
coming through, which is the great fun part to it.
If you don't, it'll still be a pleasant
experience. But what you'll basically be doing is using the chocolate, its mouthfeel, and its
ability to basically be a great vector for other flavors. And it won't necessarily be that great
for you. We couldn't cover this conversation without talking about the sugar, right? So
most of us are not going to be eating 100% chocolate bar, there is sugar being added.
You've talked about that already, Spencer,
about the balance. How bad is that? It's got sugar added to it. So this is a terrible thing.
How do we think about that? So I think that that's a slight red herring and a bit misleading
because the amount of sugar in a 60 or 70 gram bar of chocolate, which is 70 or 80%, is one or two teaspoons. And you're never going to eat a full chocolate bar in a 60 or 70 gram bar of chocolate which is 70 or 80 percent is one or two teaspoons and
you're never going to eat a full chocolate bar in one sitting or you know i would suggest that
you don't you don't need to if you savor it and you appreciate the flavor i can manage it but all
right i don't know if you need a full chocolate bar very few people will actually take a good
quality artisan chocolate bar and actually scoff it in one go unless they're incredibly hungry hungry, in which case it's probably not the ideal thing, because it's something which
you want to savour. It's a bit like, you know, for most people, you don't really drink a whole
bottle of wine in one go. And actually, let's compare it to an American red wine. A lot of
American red wines, you know, the high alcohol ones, will actually have more sugar in them than
a bar of chocolate. Certainly a low-fat yogurt, a low-fat vanilla yogurt,
has got like five or six times the amount of sugar
that a dark chocolate bar will have.
And particularly you're talking about a dark chocolate here, right?
Because again, just to remind everybody,
as those chocolates fall, right,
they tend to see higher sugar levels.
Yes, but there is a sort of slight twist on this,
which is that when you talk about milk chocolate
and dark milk chocolate, if they're good quality, we sell a lot of milk chocolate bars, but almost all of our milk chocolate bars are over 40% cacao.
And once you start getting above 55, 60%, actually they have less added sugar to them than a dark chocolate bar of 70 or 80%, because actually the milk is being caramelized and becoming a sweetener we
actually do some chocolate bars which are milk chocolate bars but have no added sugar so that
you know 65 or 70 or even 80 percent cacao and the sweetener is milk now obviously as you caramelize
the milk it does become a sugar but i'm just sort of encouraging you to think slightly differently
about sugar what's really dangerous is if the chocolate doesn't have any flavour naturally.
And that's, I think, what Tim was sort of saying.
So that is the important thing about, you know, the great thing about food is if it
has flavour, then it's much more likely to be natural.
And chocolate is an absolutely perfect example of that.
The more flavour the chocolate naturally has, the less processing that it's
going to have had and less sort of, you know, ultra processing that it will have had with it.
But I wouldn't worry too much about dark milk chocolates and good craft milk chocolates.
The only danger, I think, is that you tend to scoff more of them than a dark chocolate bar.
I think that's where it becomes trickier, that a milk chocolate bar is much closer to a
Blisspoint food than a dark chocolate bar. And again, Blisspoint is what you described earlier
on. When you combine sugar, salt and fat, human beings just don't know how to stop eating.
Brilliant. So we actually asked our Zoe members on Instagram, we said we were going to be doing
this really fun podcast talking about chocolate and what were their key questions. And a number
of them we've already covered, but there are a number here that we haven't and so I want to make sure that we've
covered those one question was is fruit and nut milk chocolate healthier than dark chocolate
Tim I can see you've been thinking about this what's the answer well it's always going to depend
on which we're comparing but on average it would be less healthy than dark chocolate just because the way they're made.
And generally, fruit and nut chocolates tend to be made with very commercial milk chocolates of low cocoa quality and amount.
So you're mainly having sugar and dry fruits are a very high source of sugar as well.
So the only good bits you're getting there are a few nuts in that one.
So although I used to love, that was my favourite as a kid, I think, fruit and nut chocolate,
I now realise it's definitely not a health food.
So I'm afraid fruit and nut milk chocolate is out, it sounds like.
So next question, how much chocolate do you need for it to be beneficial?
So I love this question where the question is really, am I eating enough chocolate in order to get the benefits, which is a wonderful way to think about this.
So I think there are sort of a stop you having a third slice of chocolate cake or, you know, a fifth piece of, you know, sort of Black Forest gato, then that's a good thing.
I mean, I think what I think chocolate is, is it's a great way of satisfying your cravings for sweetness at the end of a meal without having too end of it, there is, as Tim was saying, there is some evidence actually that
the polyphenols in chocolate actually can be very beneficial for your heart.
And there is this tribe of people in South America called the Yuna.
And the fact that they never have heart attacks is put down to the fact that they drink about
15 to 17 cups of chocolate every day.
So if that's what you're after you've got to consume
an awful lot of it um and i'm not necessarily sure that most of us would be up for being able
to sort of do that it's sort of like you know the way they drink it is definitely slightly
differently to the way that we would consume it so i'd say quality not quantity is what people
should be aiming at 20 to 25 grams a day which is you know quarter of a bar which is what you'll get
actually when you
come to one of our tastings that's what people will eat they they are amazed they're absolutely
full by the end of it but they've literally had less than a you know quarter of a bar of chocolate
but they'll have had 10 different chocolates in about that amount brilliant so next next question
should i watch out for lecithins in chocolate lecithinin is an emulsifier, which is the glue-like substances that bind
things together. So it's an indicator that whoever's making that chocolate is trying to
cut some corners and stick some of these things together. There are many emulsifiers used in
food processing, and probably lecithin is one of the healthier ones of those because it is
a natural product. But it generally is a sign that someone is cutting corners with the process.
And so, and there's a question mark about whether lecithin itself may be harmful for your gut
microbes. So yeah, I mean, it's probably not terrible, but it's also a sign that you could do better.
In chocolate, there are generally two, well, there's three lecithins which are used, one of which I'm going to ignore immediately, which is PGPR, because it's used as an alternative to vegetable fat and caramel.
And that is just really, really bad. That's just not a good thing.
The other two are sunflower lecithin and soy lecithin.
Of the two, always look for sunflower. And as Tim said, the reason why
lecithins are added to chocolate is because actually it helps people who are cooking with
chocolate. If they're trying to make, you know, some sort of great chocolate pudding where they
want to glaze, it makes it much easier to deal with. But also because in hot countries, which
rarely make chocolate, so most of the time actually where chocolate is grown is not where it's made.
But in those few cases like Madagascar with someone like Menacal,
the machinery gums up if you don't add a bit of lecithin to it.
So, you know, for them, it's the exception that proves the rule.
But generally, be really dubious about ingredients.
I mean, I would be much more worried about vanilla or vanillin,
especially in dark chocolates, that I would be about lesser
things. But if you can, yeah, I mean, you know, less is more. Brilliant. And last question,
is eating half a bar of chocolate just before bed a bad idea? This is an interesting one,
because actually, one of the interesting things about drinking chocolate is that people have
always often had it before bed, because it does help people sleep hot drink before you'll go to sleep and although chocolate
does have trace elements of caffeine its main active ingredient is theobromine which has this
sort of weird effect of on the one hand stimulating you but not sort of waking you up um i think
though the argument about like having you know half a bar of dark chocolate again is going to be you know what sort of dark chocolate is it if it's a dark chocolate about like having, you know, half a bar of dark chocolate, again, is going to be, you know, what sort of dark chocolate is it? If it's a dark chocolate bar,
which is like, you know, 60% sugar, then be a bit worried about it, because sugar is going to keep
you up. I'm not necessarily thinking that half a bar is necessarily good, a couple of squares
will definitely, you know, cause your second stomach to regurgitate in a very good way.
So that may help you sleep. But but i i you know i'm not
sure that eating before you go to sleep is overall a great thing but tim you're the expert on this
yeah in general uh i think you should be having your chocolate not just before you go to sleep
have it just after your meal or just before a meal um and you want to keep up there's a general
idea that we want to put our eating times together
and we have a long time for our gut to recover.
So I'm against late night snacking or early morning snacking.
Give your gut a rest and let it enjoy the chocolate
in its eating time and not confuse it.
Brilliant. I think that's a perfect place to stop.
This has been so much fun.
I think we could keep talking about chocolate for hours,
but we will stop.
Thank you both Tim and Spencer
for joining me on the Zoe Science Podcast today.
We hope you liked today's episode.
Please be sure to leave us a review
and subscribe if you did.
If you're interested in learning more about Zoe
and the best foods for your body beyond chocolate,
you can head to joinzoe.com slash podcast and get 10% off your personalized nutrition program.
As always, I'm your host, Jonathan Wolfe.
The Zoe Science Podcast is produced by Rob Heath,
with support from Sharon Federer and Kirsten Cade here at Zoe.
See you next time.