Classic Audiobook Collection - Cocoa and Chocolate by Arthur W. Knapp ~ Full Audiobook [history]

Episode Date: July 1, 2023

Cocoa and Chocolate by Arthur W. Knapp audiobook. Genre: history As that heavenly bit of chocolate melts in our mouths, we give little thought as to where it came from, the arduous work that went in to its creation, and the complex process of its maturation from a bean to the delicacy we all enjoy. This 'little book' details everything you have ever wanted to know (and some things you never knew you wanted to know) about cocoa and chocolate from how the trees are planted and sustained to which countries produce the most cacao beans. Do cacao beans from various countries differ? What makes some types of chocolate higher quality than other kinds? Are there any health benefits to eating chocolate? Read on to learn the answers to these and many other questions about that wondrous little treat we call chocolate. For ad-free listening try our premium subscription Chapters (Approximate) (00:00:00) Chapter 01 (00:33:00) Chapter 02 (01:07:03) Chapter 03 (01:58:28) Chapter 04 (02:50:18) Chapter 05 (03:14:31) Chapter 06 (03:35:24) Chapter 07 (03:55:58) Chapter 08 (04:24:50) Chapter 09 (04:31:00) Chapter 10 Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Coco and Chocolate, their history from plantation to consumer by Arthur W. Knapp, Preface. Although there are several excellent scientific works dealing in a detailed manner with the Kekayo Bean and its products from the various viewpoints of the technician, there is no comprehensive modern work written for the general reader. Until that appears, I offer this little book, which attempts to cover lightly but accurately the whole ground, including the history of Kikayo, its cultivation, and manufacture. This is a small book in which to treat of so large a subject, and to avoid prolixity, I have had to generalize. This is a dangerous practice, for what is gained in brevity is too often lost in accuracy. Brevity may be always the soul of wit. It is rarely the body of truth.

The expert will find that I have considered him in that I have given attention to recent developments, and if I have talked of the methods peculiar to one place, as though they applied to the whole world, I ask him to consider me by supplying the inevitable variations and exceptions himself. The book, though short, has taken me a long time to write, having been written in the brief breathing spaces of a busy life, and it would never have been completed, but for the encouragement I received from Monsieur's Cadbury Brothers, who aided me in every way. I am particularly indebted to the present Lord Mayor of Birmingham, Mr. W. A. Cadbury for advice and criticism, and to Mr. Walter Barrow, for the reading proofs. The members of the staff, to whom I am indebted are Mr. W. Pickard, Mr. E.J. Organ, Mr. T.

T.B. Rogers. Also, Mr. A. Hackett, for whom the diagrams in the manufacturing section were originally made by Mr. J. W. Richards. I am grateful to Monsieur's J.S. Fri and S. S. L. Limited for information and photographs. In one or two cases, I do not know whom to thank for the photographs, which have been cold from many sources. I have much pleasure in thanking the following. Mr. R. Weimper for a large number of Trinidad photos, the director of the Imperial Institute, and Mr. John Murray for permission to use three illustrations from the Imperial Institute series of handbooks to the commercial resources of the tropics. Mr. Ed Laplace, Director General of Agriculture, Belgium, for several photos, the blocks of which were kindly supplied by Mr. Hemel Smith of

Tropical Life, Monsieur's Macmillan and Company for five reproductions from C. JJ Van Hall's book on Coco and West Africa for four illustrations of the Gold Coast. The industry with which this book deals is changing slowly from an art to a science. It is in a transition period. It is one of the humors of any live industry that is always in a transition period. There are many indications of scientific progress in cacao cultivation and now that in addition to the experimental and research departments attached to the principal firms a research association has also been formed for the cocoa and chocolate industry the increased amount of diffused scientific knowledge of cocoa and chocolate manufacture should give rise to interesting developments a w nap Birmingham February 19

20. End of preface. Introduction. In a few short chapters, I propose to give a plain account of the production of cocoa and chocolate. I assume that the reader is not a specialist and knows little or nothing of the subject, and hence, both the style of writing and the treatment of the subject will be simple. At the same time, I assume that the reader desires a full and accurate account and not a vague, story in which the difficulties are ignored. I hope that as a result of this method of dealing with my subject, even experts will find much in the book that is of interest and value. After a brief survey of the history of cocoa and chocolate, I shall begin with the growing of the cacao bean

and follow the cacao in its career until it becomes the finished product ready for consumption. Cicayo or Coco The reader will have noted above the spelling Cacayo and to those who think it curious I would say that I do not use this spelling from pedantry. It is an imitation of the word which the Mexicans used for this commodity as early as 1500 and when spoken by Europeans is apt to sound like the howl of a dog.

The Mexicans called this tree, from which cacao is obtained, Cocoault. When the great Swedish scientist, Linnaeus, the father of botany, was named in classifying, about 1735, the trees and plants known in his time,

he christened it, Theobroma, Cacayo, by which name it is called by botanists to this day. Theobroma is Greek for food of the gods. Why Linnaeus paid this extraordinary comment, compliment to cacao is obscure, but it has been suggested that he was inordinately fond of the beverage prepared from it. The cup, which both cheers and satisfies, it will be seen from the above that the species name is cacao, and one can understand that Englishmen, finding it

difficult to get their insular lips around this outlandish word lazily called it cocoa. In this book, I shall use the words cacao, cocoa, and chocolate as follows. Cacayo, when I refer to the cacao tree, the cacao pod, or the cacao bean or seed. By the single word, cacao, I imply the raw product, cacao beans, in bulk. Coco, when I refer to the powder manufactured from the roasted bean by pressing out part of the butter. The word is too well established to be changed, even if one wished it. As we shall see later in the chapter on adulteration, it has come legally to have a very definite significance. If this method of distinguishing between Kekayo and Koko were the accepted practice,

the perturbation which occurred in the public mind during the war in 1916, as to whether manufacturers were exporting cocoa to neutral countries would not have arisen. It should have been spelled cacao for the statements referred to the raw beans and not to the manufactured beverage. Had this been done, it would have been unnecessary for the manufacturers to point out that cocoa powder was not being so exported and that they naturally did not sell the raw cacao bean. chocolate this word is given a somewhat wider meaning it signifies any preparation of roasted cacao beans

without abstraction of butter it practically always contains sugar and added cacao butter and is generally prepared in molded form it is used either for eating or drinking cacao beans and coconuts in old manuscripts the word cacao is spelled in all manner of ways but c o c o a survived them all this curious inversion

cocoa is to be regretted for it has led to a confusion which could not otherwise have arisen but for this spelling no one would have dreamed of confusing the totally unrelated bodies cacao and the milky coconut footnote you note that i spell it c o c o n ut not c o a in ut for the name is derived from the spanish cocoa grinning face or bug bear for frightening children and was given to the nut because the three scars at the broad end of the nut resemble a grotesque face. End a footnote. To make confusion worse, confounded, the old writers referred to cacao seeds as cacao nuts. Footnote.

As for example, in the humble memorial of Joseph Frye, quoted in the chapter on history, end a footnote. But as in appearance, cacao seeds resemble beans. They are now usually spruce. of as beans. The distinction between cacao and the coconut may be summarized thus. Botanical name of cacao, the Abroma cacao tree, botanical name of coconut, Cocos Nusifera Palm Palm, The Fruit of Caccio, Caccio Pod containing many seeds, cacao beans, the fruit of a cocoa. Cicchio pod containing many seeds, cacao beans, the fruit of a coconut, coconut, which with outer fiber is as large as a man's head.

Products of cacao. Coco, chocolate. Products of coconut. Broken coconut, copra. Coconut matting. Fatty constituent of cacao. Cicayo butter. Fatty constituent of coconut, coconut oil.

End of introduction. chapter one cocoa and chocolate a sketch of their history quote did time and space allow there is much to be told on the romantic side of chocolate of its divine origin of the bloody wars and brave exploits of the spaniards who conquered mexico and were the first to introduce cacao into europe tales almost too thrilling to be believed of the intrigues of the spanish court and of the first of the first to introduce cacao into europe tales almost too thrilling to be believed of the intrigues of the spanish court and of the celebrities who met and sipped their chocolate in the parlors of the coffee and chocolate houses, so fashionable in the 17th and 18th centuries. Quoted from Coco and Chocolate, Weimper. On opening a cacao pod, it is seen to be full of beans surrounded by a fruity pulp, and whilst the pulp is very pleasant to taste, the beans themselves are uninviting, so that doubtless the beans were always thrown away,

until someone tried roasting them. One pictures this someone as a prehistoric Aztec with swart skin sniffing the aromatic fume coming from the roasting beans and thinking that beans which smelled so appetizing must be good to consume. The name of the man who discovered this use of kakayo must be written in some early chapter of the history of man, but it is blurred and unreadable. All we know is that he was an inhabitant of the New World and probably of Central America. Original home of Kikayo

The corner of the earth where the Kikayo tree originally grew and still grows wild today is the country watered by the mighty Amazon and the Aaronoko. This is the very region in which Oriano, the Spanish adventurer, said that he had truly seen Eldorado, which he describes as a city of gold, roofed with gold, and standing by a lake with golden sands. In reality, El Dorado was nothing but a vision, a vision that for a hundred years fascinated all manner of dreamers and adventurers from Sir Walter Raleigh downwards, so that many braved great hardships in search of it, groped through forests where the cacao tree grew, and returned to Europe, feeling they had failed. To our eyes, they were not entirely unsuccessful, for whilst they failed to find a city of gold, they discovered the home of the golden pod. Montezuma, the first great patron of chocolate. When Columbus discovered the new world,

He brought back with him to Europe many new and curious things, one of which was Cicayo. Some years later, in 1519, the Spanish Conquistador Cortez landed in Mexico, marched into the interior and discovered, to his surprise, not the huts of savages, but a beautiful city with palaces and museums. This city was the capital of the Aztecs, a remarkable people. notable alike for their ancient civilization and their wealth. Their national drink was chocolate. In Montezuma, their emperor, who lived in a state of luxurious magnificence,

quote, took no other beverage than the chocolatol, a potation of chocolate flavored with vanilla and other spices, and so prepared as to be reduced to a froth of the consistency of honey, which gradually dissolved in the mouth, and was taken cold. This beverage, if it so could be called, was served in golden goblets, with spoons of the same metal or tortoise shell finally wrought. The emperor was exceedingly fond of it, to judge from the quantity, no less than 50 jars or pitchers being prepared for his own daily consumption. Two thousand more were allowed for that of his household. It is curious that

Montezuma took no other beverage than chocolate, especially if it be true that the Aztecs also invented that fascinating drink, the cocktail. How long this ancient people, students of the mysteries of culinary science, had known the art of preparing a drink from cacao, is not known, but it is evident that the cultivation of cacao received great attention in these parts. For if we read down the list of tributes paid by different cities to the Lords of Mexico, we find 20 chests of ground chocolate, 20 bags of gold dust, again 80 loads of red chocolate, 20 lip jewels of clear amber, and yet again, 200 loads of chocolate. Another people that share with the Aztecs the honor of being the first great cultivators of Kikayo are the Inkaes of Peru, that wonderful nation.

that knew not poverty. The fascination of chocolate. That chocolate charmed the ladies of Mexico in the 17th century, even as it charms the ladies of England today, is shown by a story which Gage relates in his new survey of the West India's 1648. He tells us that at Chiapha, southward from Mexico, the women used to interrupt both sermon and mass by having their maids bring them a cup of hot chocolate.

And when the bishop, after fair warning, excommunicated them for this presumption, they changed their church. The bishop, he adds, was poison for his pains. Kekayo beans as money. Kakaya was used by the Aztecs, not only for the preparation of a beverage, but also as a circulating medium of exchange. For example, one could purchase a tolerably good,

slave for 100 beans. We read that. Their currency consisted of transparent quills of gold dust and bits of tin cut in the form of a tea and of bags of cacao containing a specified number of grains. Blessed money exclaims Peter Martyr which exempts its possessor from avarice since it cannot be long-horted nor hidden underground. Derivation of Chaulder. The word was derived from the Mexican chocolatol. The Mexicans used to froth their chocolotol with curious whisk made specially for the purpose. Thomas Gage suggested that choco, choco, choco is a vocal representation of the sound made by stirring chocolate. The suffix, atul, means water.

According to Mr. W.J. Gordon, we owe the name. of chocolate to a misprint. He states that Joseph Acosta, who wrote as early as 1604 of Chocolatol, was made by the printer to write Chocolatee, from which the English eliminate the accent, and the French the final letter. First, cacao in Europe. The Spanish discoverers of the new world brought home to Spain quantities of cacao, which the curioles. The curate, tasted. We may conclude that they drank the preparation cold, as Montezuma did, hot chocolate being a later invention. The new drink, eagerly sought by some, did not meet with universal approval, and, as was natural, the most diverse opinions existed as to the pleasantness

and wholesomeness of the beverage when it was first known. Thus, Joseph Acosta, 1604, wrote, quote the chief use of this cocoa is in a drink which they call chacholate whereof they make great account foolishly and without reason for it is loathsome to such as are not acquainted with it having a cream or froth that is very unpleasant to taste if they be not well conceited thereof yet it is a drink very much esteemed among the Indians, whereof they feast noble men as they pass through their country. The Spaniards, both men and women, that are accustomed to the country, are very greedy of this chacholete. End quote.

It is not impossible that the English, with the defeat of the Armada, fresh in memory, were at first contemptuous of this Spanish drink. Certain it is that when British sea rovers, like Drake, and Frobisher captured Spanish galleons on the high sea and on searching their holds for treasure, found bags of cacao, they flung them overboard in scorn. In considering this scorn of cacao, shown alike by British buccaneers and Dutch corsairs, together with the critical air of Joseph Acosta, we should remember that the original chakulatol of the Mexicans consisted of a mixture of maize and cacao, with hot spices like chilies and contained no sugar.

In this condition, few inhabitants of the temperate zone could relish it. It, however, only needed one thing, the addition of sugar, and the introduction of this marked the beginning of its European popularity. The Spaniards were the first to manufacture and drink chocolate in any quantity. To this day, they serve it in the old style, thick as porridge, pungent with spices. They endeavored to keep secret the method of preparation and without success to retain the manufacture as a monopoly. Chocolate was introduced into Italy by Carletti, who praised it and spread the method of its manufacture abroad. The new drink was introduced by monks

from Spain into Germany and France, and when in 1660 Maria Teresa, Infanta of Spain, Married Lewis the 14th, she made chocolate well known at the court of France. She it was, of whom a French historian wrote that Maria Teresa had only two passions, the king and chocolate. Chocolate was advocated by the learned physicians of those times as a cure for many diseases, and it was stated that Cardinal Richelieu had been cured of general atrophy by its use. From France, the use of chocolate spread into England, where it began to be drunk as a luxury by the aristocracy, about the time of the Commonwealth. It must have made some progress in public favor by 1673, for in that year, a lover of his country, wrote in the Harleian Miscellany, demanding its prohibition, along with brandy, rum, and tea, on the ground that this imported article did no good.

and hindered the consumption of English-grown barley and wheat. New things appeal to the imaginative, and the absence of authentic knowledge concerning them allows free play to the imagination. So it happened that in the early days, whilst many writers vied with one another in writing glowing penedrics on Cicayo, a few thought it an evil thing.

Thus, whilst it was praised by many for its wonderful faculty of quenching thirst, allaying, hectic heats of nourishing and fattening the body, it was seriously condemned by others as an inflamer of the passions. Chocolate houses and clubs The drinking here of chocolate can make a fool a sophy. In the spacious days of Queen Elizabeth, tea, coffee, and chocolate were unknown, save to travelers and savants and the handmaidens.

of the good queen drank beer with their breakfast. When Shakespeare and Ben Johnson foregathered at the mermaid tavern, their winged words passed over tankards of ale, but later other drinks became the usual accompaniment of news, story, and discussion. In the 1660s, there were no strident newspapers to destroy one's equanimity, and the gossip of the day began to be circulated and discussed over cups of tea, coffee, or chocolate. The humorists, ever stirred by novelty, tilted, pen and hand at these new drinks. Thus, one rhymester described coffee as, quote, syrup of soot or essence of old shoes, end quote.

The first coffee house in London was started in St. Michael's Alley, Cornhill, in 1652, when coffee was seven shillings a pound. The first tea house was opened in exchange alley in 1657 when tea was five sovereigns a pound, and in the same year, with chocolate about 10 to 15 shillings per pound, a Frenchman opened the first chocolate house in Queen's Head Alley, Bishop's Gate Street. The rising popularity of chocolate led to the starting of more of these chocolate houses, at which one could sit and sip chocolate or purchase the commodity for preparation at home. Peep's entry in his diary for 24th November 1664 contains, quote,

to a coffee house to drink jocolete very good, end quote. It is an artless entry, and yet one can almost hear him smacking his lips. Silverman says that, quote, after the restoration of, there were shops in London for the sale of chocolate at 10 shillings or 15 shillings per pound. Ozinda's chocolate house was full of aristocratic consumers, comedies, satirical essays, memoirs, and private letters of that age frequently mention it. The habit of using chocolate was deemed a token of elegant and fashionable taste, and while the charms of this beverage in the reigns of Queen Anne and George I, were so highly

esteemed by courtees, by lords and ladies and fine gentlemen in the polite world, the learned physicians extolled its medicinal virtues. From the coffee house and its more aristocratic relative, the chocolate house, there developed a new feature in English social life, the club. As the years passed, the chocolate house remained a rendezvous, but the character of its habituase changed from time to time. Thus, one, famous in the days of Queen Anne, and well known by its sign of the cocoa tree, was at first the headquarters of the Jacobite Party, and the resort of Tories of the strictest school. It became later a noted gambling house, and ultimately developed into a literary club, including amongst its members Gibbon, the historian, and Viren, the poet.

the growing consumption of chocolate did not escape the all-seeing eye of the chancellors of england as early as sixteen sixty we find amongst various custom and excise duties granted to charles the second quote for every gallon of chocolate sherbert and tea made and sold to be paid by the maker thereof eight d end quote later the raw material was also made a source of revenue. In the humble memorial of Joseph Fry of Bristol, Maker of Chocolate, which was addressed to the Lord's Commissioners of the Treasury in 1776, we read that, quote, chocolate pays two shillings and three pence per pound excise, besides about 10 shillings per hundred weight on the cocoa nuts from which it is made, end quote. In 1784, a preferential customs rate was proposed in favor of our colonies. This they enjoyed for many years before 1853 when the uniform rate, until recently in force, was introduced. This restrictive tariff on foreign growths

rose in 1803 to 5S 10d per pound against 1S 10D on Kaukoyo grown in British possessions. From this date, it gradually diminished. High duties hampered from many years the sale of cocoa, tea, and coffee, but in recent times, these duties have been brought down to more reasonable figures. For many years before 1915, the import duty was 1d per pound on the raw kakayo beans, 1d per pound on kakio butter, and 2s a 100 weight, less than a farthing a pound, on kakio shells or husks. In the budget of September 1915, the above duties were increased, by 50%. A further and greater increase was made in the budget of April, 1916, when Cicayo was made to pay a higher tax in Britain than any other country in the world. In 1919,

imperial preference was introduced after a break of over 60 years, the duty on cocoa from foreign countries being three-fourths d a pound more than that from British possessions. duty on kakayo 1855 to 1915 kakio beans per pound 1d kakio butter per pound 1 d kakio shells per hundred weight 2 s in 1915 kakio beans per pound 1 and a half d

kakio butter per pound 1 and a half d kakio shells per 100 weight 3 s In 1916, cacao beans per pound, 6D, cacao butter per pound, 6D, cacao shells per hundred weight, 12S. In 1919, cacao beans per pound, four and a half D, four in, three and three quarter D, British. Kikayo butter per pound, four and a half D, four in, three and three quarters D, British. Kikayo shells per 100 weight 6S foreign 5S British In considering this duty and its effect on the price of the finished article

It should be remembered that there are substantial losses in manufacture Thus the beans are cleaned which removes up to 0.5% Roasted which causes a lost by volatilization of 7% And shelled the husks being about 12% Therefore, the actual yield of usable nib, which has to bear the whole duty, is about 80%. It may be well to add that the yield of cocoa powder is 48%. Of the raw beans, or roughly one pound of the raw product, yields half a pound of the finished article. Introduction of cocoa powder.

The drink, cocoa, as we know it today, was not introduced until 1828. Before this time, the ground bean mixed with sugar was sold in cakes. The beverage prepared from these chocolate cakes was very rich in butter, and whilst the British Navy has always consumed it in this condition, the sailors generally remove with a spoon the excess of butter which floats to the top. It is a little heavy for less hearty digestions. Van Houten, of the well-known Dutch house of that name, in 1828, invented a method of pressing out part of the butter and thus obtained a lighter more

appetizing and more easily assimilated preparation as the butter is useful in chocolate manufacture this process enabled the manufacturer to produce a less costly cocoa powder and thus the circle of consumers was widened Monsieur's Cadbury Brothers of Birmingham first sold their cocoa essence in 1866 and Monsu Fri and Sons of Bristol introduced a pure cocoa by pressing out part of the butter in 1868. Growing popularity of cacao preparations. The incidence of import duties did not prevent the continuous increase in the amount of cacao consumed in the British Isles. When Queen Victoria came to the throne, the cacao cleared for home consumption was about 4,000 or 5,000 tons.

thousand tons, more than half of which was consumed by the Navy. At the time of Queen Victoria's death, it had increased to four times this amount, and by 1915 it had reached nearly 50,000 tons. And of chapter one. Chapter 2 of Coco and Chocolate. This is a Libravox recording. All Libravox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit librovox.org. This reading by Allison Hester of Athens, Georgia. Coco and Chocolate, their history

from plantation to consumer by Arthur W. Knapp Chapter 2 Kakaio and its cultivation. How seldom do we think when we drink a cup of cocoa or eat some morsels of chocolate

that our liking for these delicacies has set minds and bodies at work all the world over? Many types of humanity have contributed to their production. Picture in the mind's eye the graceful coolly in the sun-saturated tropics, moving in the shade, cutting the pods from the cacao tree, the deep-chested sailor, helping to unload from lighters or surfboats the precious bags of cacao into the hold of the ocean liner.

The skillful workmen roasting the beans until they fill the room with a fine aroma, and the girl with dexterous fingers packing the cocoa or fashioning the chocolate in curious and delicate forms. To the black and brown races, the Negroes and the East Indians, we owe a debt for their work on tropical plantations, for the harder manual work would be too arduous for Europeans unused to the heat of those regions. Climate necessary Kekayo can only grow at tropical temperatures when she can only grow at tropical temperatures when she, shielded from the wind and unimpaired by drought. Enthusiasts as a hobby have grown the tree under glass in England. It requires a warmer temperature than either tea or coffee and only after infinite

care can one succeed in getting the tree to flower and bear fruit. The mean temperature in the countries in which it thrives is about 80 degrees Fahrenheit in the shade and the average of the maximum temperatures is seldom more than 90 degrees Fahrenheit or the average of the minimum temperatures less than 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The rainfall can be as low as 45 inches per annum as in the Gold Coast or as high as 150 inches as in Java. Provided the fall is uniformly distributed. The ideal spot in the secluded veil and whilst in Venezuela there are plantations up to 2,000 feet above sea level, Kekayo cannot generally be profitably cultivated above 1,000 feet. Factors of geographical distribution. Climate, soil, and manures determine the possible

region of cultivation. The extent to which the area is utilized depends on the enterprise of man. The original home of Kikayo was the rich tropical region, far famed in Elizabethan days. that lies between the Amazon and the Orinoco, and, but for the enterprise of man, it is doubtful if it would have ever spread from this region. Monkeys often carry the beans many miles. Man, the master monkey, has carried them round the world. First, the Indians spread cacao over the tropical belt of the American continent and cultivated it as far north as Mexico. Then came the Spanish explorers of the New World, who carried it from the mainland to the adjacent West Indian Islands. Kikayo was planted by them in Trinidad as early as 1525. Since that date, it has been

successfully introduced into many a tropical island. It was an important day in the history of Ceylon when Sir R. Horton in 1834 had Kekayo plants brought to that island from Trinidad. The carefully packed plants survived the ordeal of a voyage of 10,000 miles. The most recent introduction is, however, the most striking. About 1880, a native of the Gold Coast, obtained some beans, probably from Fernando Poe. In 1891, the first bag of cacao was exported. It weighed 80 pounds. In 1915, 24 years later, the export from the gold,

coast was 120 million pounds. Tropical vegetation appears so bizarre to the visitor from temperate climates that in such surroundings the cacao tree seems almost commonplace. It is in appearance as moderate and unpretentious as an apple tree, though somewhat taller, being, when full grown, about 20 feet high. It begins to bear in its fourth or fifth year, smooth in its early youth, as it gets older it becomes covered with little bosses, cushions, from which many flowers spring. I saw one fellow, very tall and gnarled, and with many pods on it. Turning to the planter, I inquired, how old is that tree? He replied almost reverentially,

It's a good deal older than I am, must be at least 50 years old. It's one of the tallest cacao trees I've ever seen. I wonder, the planter perceived my thought and said, I'll have it measured for you. It was 40 feet high. That was a tall one. Usually they are not more than half that height. The bark is reddish-gray and may be partly hidden by brown, gray, and green patches of lichen.

The bark is both beautiful and quaint, but in the main, the tree owes its beauty to its luxuriance of prosperous leaves and its, and its quaintance to its pods. The flowers, leaves, and fruit. Although cacao trees are not unlike the fruit trees of England, there are differences which, when first one sees them, cause expressions of surprise and pleasure to leap to the lips. One sees what one never saw before, the fruit springing from the main trunk quite close to the ground.

An old writer has explained, that this is due to a wise providence, because the pod is so heavy that if it hung from the end of the branches, it would fall off before it reached maturity. The old writer talks of providence. A modern writer would see in the same facts a simple example of evolution. On the same cacao tree, every day of the year may be found flowers, young podkins, and mature pods side by side. I say found, advice, At the first glance, one does not see the flowers because they are so dainty and so small. The buds are the size of rice grains, and the flowers are not more than half an inch across when the petals are fully out. The flowers are pink or yellow, of wax-like appearance and have no odor.

They were commonly stated to be pollinated by thrips and other insects. Dr. Von Fiber of Java has recently shown. that whilst self-pollination is the rule, cross-fertilization occurs between the flowers on adjacent or interlocking trees. These graceful flowers are so small that one can walk through a plantation without observing them, although an average tree will produce 6,000 blossoms in a year. Not more than 1% of these will become fruit. Usually it takes six months for the bud to develop into the mature fruit. The lovely mosses that grow on the stems and branches are sometimes so thick that they have to be destroyed or the fragile cacao flower could not push its way through.

Whilst the flowers are small, the leaves are large, being as an average, about a foot in length and four inches in breadth. The cacao tree never appears naked, save on the rare occasions when it is stripped by the wind, and the leaves are green all the year round, save when they are red, if the reader will pardon and heyburnicism. And indeed, there is something contrary in the crimson tent, for whilst we usually associate this with old leaves about to fall, with the cacao, as with some rose trees, it is the tint of young leaves. The fruit, which hangs on a short, thick stalk, may be anything in shape from a melon to a stumpy, irregular cucumber,

according to the botanic variety. The intermediate shape is like a lemon with furrows from end to end. There are pods called calabacillo, smooth and ovate like a calabash. And there are others more rare, so nobly that they are well-named alligator. The pods vary in length from 5 to 11 inches, with here and there the great pod of all, the blood red Sangret Torah. The colors of the pods are as brilliant as they are various. They are rich and strong and resemble those of the rind of the palm granite.

One pod shows many shades of dull crimson. Another grades from gold to yellow of leather, and yet another is all lackluster pea green. They may be likened to Chinese lanterns hanging in the woods. One does not conclude from the appearance of the pod that the contents are edible any more than one would surmise that tea leaves could be used to produce a refreshing drink. I say as much to the planter who smiles. With one deft cut with his machete or cutlass, which hangs in a leather scabbard by his side,

the planter severs the pod from the tree, and with another slash cuts the thick, almost woody rinds, and breaks open the pod. There is disclosed a mass of some 30 or 40 beans covered with juicy pulp. The inside of the rind and the mass of the beans are gleaming white, like melting snow. Sometimes the mass is pale amethyst in color. I perceive a pleasant odor resembling melon. Like little Jack Horner, I put my thumb in and pull out a snow-white bean. It is slippery to hold, so I put it in.

in my mouth. The taste is sweet, something between grape and melon. Inside this fruity coating is the bean proper. From different pods we take beans and cut them in two and find that the color of the bean varies from purple to almost white. Botanical description. The Obroma cacao belongs to the family of Sturculiase and to the same order as limes and mellows. It is described in Strasbourg's admirable textbook of botany as follows. Family, Sturculiase. Important genera The most important plant is the cocoa tree.

The obroma cacao. It is a low tree with short, stalled, firm, brittle, simple leaves of large size, oval shape, and dark green color. The young leaves are of a bright red color, and, as in many tropical trees, hang limply downwards. The flowers are born on the main stem, or the older branches, and arise from dormant auxiliary buds. Each petal is bulged up at the base, narrows considerably above this, and ends in an expanded tip. The form of the reddish flowers is thus somewhat urn-shaped, with five radiating point.

The pentilocular ovary has numerous ovules in each form of the reddish. yuculus as the fruit develops the soft tissue of the septa extends between the single seeds the right fruit is thus unilocular and many seeded the seed coat is filled by the embryo which has two large folded brutal Kotulians end quote the last sentence conveys an erroneous impression the two Kotulians which form the seeds are not brittle when found in nature in the pod. They are juicy and fleshy, and it is only after the seed has received special treatment, fermentation and drying, to obtain the bean of commerce that it becomes brittle. Varieties of theobroma cacao. As mentioned above, the pods and seeds of theobroma cacao

trees show a marked variation, and in every country, the botanist has studied the these variations and classified the trees according to the shape and color of the pods and seeds. The existence of so many classifications has led to a good deal of confusion, and we are indebted to Van Hall for the simplest way of clearing up these difficulties. He accepts the classification, first given by Morris, dividing the trees into two varieties, Criolo and Forrestero. The Cicayo of the Criolo variety has pods, the walls of which are thin and warty, with 10 distinct furrows. The seeds or beans are white as ivory throughout, round and plump and sweet to taste.

The forestero variety includes many sub-varieties, the kind most distinct from the Criolo having pods, the walls of which are thick and woody, the surface smooth, and the furos indistinct, and the shape globular. The seeds in these pods are purple in color, flat in appearance, and bitter to taste. This is a very convenient classification. Personally, I believe it would be possible to find pods varying by almost imperceptible gradations from the finest, purest creolo to the lowest form of forestero. The creolo yields the finest and rarest kind of cacao, but as sometimes happens with refined types in nature, it is a represent.

rather delicate tree, especially liable to canker and bark diseases, and this accounts for the predominance of the forestero and the cacao plantations of the world. The cacao plantation. One can spend happy days on a cacao estate. Are you going into the cocoa? They ask. Just as in England we might inquire, are you going into the corn? Coconut plantations and sugar estates make a strong,

appeal to the imagination, but for peaceful beauty they cannot compare with the cacao plantation. True, coconut plantations are very lovely. The palms are so graceful, the leaves against the sky, so like a fine etching, but the slender cocoa's drooping crown of plumes is altogether foreign to English eyes. Sugar estates are generally marred by the prosaic factory in the background. They are dead level plains and the giant grass affords no shade from the relentless sun, whereas the leaves of the kakayo tree are large and numerous so that even in the heat of the day it is comparatively cool and pleasant under the kakayo. Kikayo plantations present in different countries every variety of appearance, from that of a wild forest in which the greater portion of the trees are kakayo to the tidy and orderly plantation.

In some of the Trinidad plantations, the trees are planted in parallel lines 12 feet apart, with a tree every 12 feet along the line. And as you push your way through the plantation, the apparently irregularly scattered trees are seen to flash momentarily into long lines. In other parts of the world, for example, in Granada and Suriname, the ground may be kept so tidy and free from weeds that they have the appearance. of gardens. Clearing the land. When the planter has chosen a suitable site, an exercise requiring skill, the forest has to be cleared. The felling of great trees and the clearing of the wild

tangle of undergrowth is arduous work. It is well to leave the trees on the ridges for about 60 feet on either side and thus form a belt of trees to act as windscreen. Cicayo trees are as sensitive to a draft as some human beings, and these windbreaks are often deliberately grown. Balata, Mango, Trinidad, Galba, Granada, Wild Poitou, Martinique, and other leafy trees being suitable for this purpose. Suitable Soil It was for many years believed that if a tree were analyzed, the best soil for its growth could at once be inferred and described, as it was assumed that the best soil would be one containing the same elements in similar proportions. This simple theory ignored the characteristic powers

of assimilation of the tree in question and the digestibility of the soil constituents. However, it is agreed that soils rich in potash and lime, e.g., those obtained by the decomposition of certain volcanic rocks, are good for cacao. An open sandy or loamy alluvial soil is considered ideal. The physical condition of the soil is equally important. Heavy clays or waterlogged soils are bad. The depth of soil required depends on its nature. A stiff soil discourages the growth of the tap root, which in good porous soils is generally seven or eight feet long. Maneur. The greater part of the world's cacao is produced without the use of artificial manures. The soil, which is continually washed down by the rains into the rivers, is continually renewed by the decomposition of the bedrock,

and in the tropics, this decomposition is more rapid than in temperate climes. In Guayaquil, notwithstanding the fact that the same soil has been cropped consecutively for over a hundred years, there is as yet no sign of decadence, nor does a necessity yet arise for artificial manure. However, manures are useful with all soils and necessary with many. Happy is the planter, who is so placed that he can obtain a plentiful supply of farmyard or pin manure, as this gives excellent results. Moulching is also recommended. This consists of covering the ground with decaying leaves, grasses, etc., which keeps the soil in a moist and open condition during the dry season. If artificial manures are used, they should vary according to the soil, and although he can obtain

considerable help from the analyst, the planter's most reliable guide will be experiment on the spot. Planting In the past, insufficient care has been taken in the selection of seed. The planters should choose the large plump beans with a pale interior, or he should choose the nearest kind to this that is sufficiently hardy to thrive in the particular environment. He can plant one direct from seeds, or two from seedlings, plants raised in nurseries in bamboo pots, or three, by grafting or budding. It is usual to plant two or three seeds in each hole and destroy the weaker plants.

when about a foot high. The seeds are planted from 12 to 15 feet apart. The distance chosen depends chiefly on the richness of the soil. The richer the soil, the more ample room is allowed for the trees to spread without choking each other. Interesting results have been obtained by heart and others by grafting the fine but tender creolo onto the hearty forest era. But until yesterday, the practice had not been tried on a large scale. Experiments were begun in 1913 by Mr. W.G. Friedman in Trinidad, which promise interesting results. By 1919, the Department of Agriculture had seven acres and grafted and budded kakayo.

In a few years, it should be possible to say whether it pays to form an estate of budded kakayo in preference to using seedlings. There are no longer any mystic rites performed before planting. In the old days, it was the custom to solemnize the planting, for example, by sacrificing a cacao-colored dog. Shade, temporary and permanent. When the seeds are planted, such small plants as cassava, chilis, pigeon peas, and the like are planted with them. The object of planting these is to afford the young cacao plant, shelter from the sun,

and to keep the ground in good condition. Incidentally, the planter obtains cassava, which gives tapioca, red peppers, etc., as a catch crop whilst he is waiting for the cacao tree to begin to yield. Bananas and plantains are planted with the same object, and these are allowed to remain for a longer period. Such is the rapidity of plant growth in the tropics that in three or four years the cacao tree is taller than a man and begins to bear fruit in its fourth or fifth year. Now it has agreed that, as with men, the cacao tree needs protection in its youth, but whether it needs shade trees when it is fully grown is one of the controverted questions. When the planter is sitting after his day's work is done and no fresh topic comes to his mind, he often reopens the discussion on the question of shade.

The idea that cacao trees need shade is a very ancient one, as shown in a very old drawing, possibly the oldest drawing of cacao extant, beneath which is written, quote, of the tree which bears cacao, which is money, and how the Indians obtained fire with two pieces of wood, end quote. In this drawing, you will observe how lovingly the shade tree shelters the caccio. The intention in using shade is to imitate the natural forest conditions in which the wild cacao grow.

Sometimes, when clearing the forest, certain large trees are left standing, but more frequently, and with better judgment, chosen kinds are planted. Many trees have been used, the salmon, red fruit, mango, mammoth, sandbox, poidoo, rubber, etc. In the illustration showing Kipok,

acting as a parasol for cacao and Java, we see that the proportion of shade trees to cacao is high. Liguminous trees are preferred because they conserve the nitrogen in the soil. Hence, in Trinidad, the favorite shade tree is erythrina or boy immortal. So called, a humorous suggests, because it is short-lived. It is also rather prettily named Mother of cacao. Usually, the shade trees are planted about 40 feet apart, but there are cacao plantations which might cause a stranger to inquire,

is this an immortal plantation? So closely are these conspicuous trees planted. When looking down a Trinidad Valley, richly planted with cacao, one sees in every direction the silver-gray trunks of the immortal. In the early months of the year, these trees have no leaves. They are a mass of flame-colored flowers, each shafted like a, cimeter. It pays well the labor of climbing a hill to look down on this vermilion glory. Some Trinidad planters believe that their trees would die without shade. Yet, in Granada, only a hundred miles north

as the steamer cells, there are whole plantations without a single shade tree. The Grenadians say, you cannot have pods without flowers, and you cannot have good flowering without light and air. Shade trees are not used on some estates in San Tomé, and in Brazil, there are Cocoa Kings with 200,000 trees without one shade tree. It should be mentioned, however, that in these countries, the Kikayo trees are planted more closely, about eight feet apart, and themselves shade the soil. Professor Carmody, in reporting recently on the result of a four-year experiment with one shade, Two, no shade. Three, partial shade,

says that so far, partial shade, has given the best results. No general solution has yet been found to the question of the advantage of shade, and, as Shaw states for morality, so in agriculture, the golden rule is that there is no golden rule. Not only is there the personal factor, but nature provides an infinite variety of environments.

And the best results are obtained, by the use of methods appropriate to the local conditions. Form of tree growth desired. Suckers. This count Mount Mores in a delightfully clear exposition of cacao cultivation, which he gave to the native farmers and chiefs of the Gold Coast in 1906, said, In pruning, it is necessary always to bear in mind that the best shape for cacao trees is that of an enlargement, enlarged open umbrella. With a height under the umbrella not exceeding seven feet. With this ideal in

mind, the planters should train up the tree in the way it should go. Viscount Mount Mourdes also said that everything that grows upwards except the main stem must be cut off. This opens a question which is of great interest to planters as to whether it is wise to allow shoots to grow out from the main trunk near the ground. Some hold that the high yield on their plantation is due to letting these upright shoots grow. My Amigo, Corzicano said, Diablo, let the cacao trees grow. Let them branch off like any other fruit tree, say the tamarind. The chupon or sucker will in time bear more than its mother. There seems to be some evidence that old trees profit from the chupons because they continue to bear when the old trunk is weary, but this is compensated by the fact that the chupons,

Portuguese for suckers, were grown at the expense of the tree in its youth. Hence, other planters call them thieves and gormandizers, saying that they suck the sap from the tree, turning all to wood. They follow the advice given as early as 1730 by the author of the natural history of chocolate when he says, Cut or lop off the suckers. In Trinidad, experiments have been started, and after a five years test, Professor Carmody says that the indications are that it is a matter of indifference whether two ponds are allowed to grow or not. after hunting agriculture is man's oldest industry and improvements come but slowly for the proving of a theory often requires work on a huge scale carried out for several decades the husbandry of the earth goes on from century to century with little change and the methods followed are the winnowings of experience tempered with indolence and even with the bewildering progress of science and other directions sound improvements in this field are rare discoveries.

There is a great scope for the application of physical and chemical knowledge to the production of the raw materials of the tropics. In one or two instances, notable advances have been made. Thus, the direct production of white sugar, as now practiced at Java, at the tropical factory, will have far-reaching effects. But with many tropical products, the methods practiced are as ancient as they,

are haphazard. Like all methods founded on long experience, they suit the environment and the temperament of the people who use them, so that the work of the scientist in introducing improvements requires intimate knowledge of the conditions if his suggestions are to be adopted. The various departments of agriculture are doing splendid pioneer work, but the full harvest of their sowing tree will not be reaped until the number of tropically educated agriculture has been increased by the founding of three or four agricultural colleges and research laboratories in equatorial regions. There is much research to be done. As yet, however, many planters are ignorant of all that is already established, the facilities for education in tropical

agriculture being few and far between. There are signs, however, of development in this direction. It is pleasant to note that a start was made in Ceylon at the end of 1917 by opening an agricultural school at Paradigia. Trinidad has for a number of years had an agricultural school and is eager to have a college devoted to agriculture. In 1919, Monsieur's Cadbury Brothers gave 5,000 pounds to form the nucleus of a special educational fund for the Gold Coast. The scientists attached to the several government agricultural departments in Java, Ceylon, Trinidad, the Philippines, Africa, etc., have done splendid work, but it is desirable that the number of workers should be increased. When the world wakes up to the importance of tropical produce, agricultural colleges will be scattered about the tropics so that every would-be planter can learn his subject on the spot. Diseases of the cacao tree Take, for example, the case of the diseases of plants.

Everyone who takes an interest in the garden knows how destructive the insect pests and vegetable parasites can be. In the tropics, their power for destruction is very great, and they are a constant menace to economic products like cacao. The importance of understanding their habits and of studying methods to keep them in check is readily appreciated. The planter may be ruined by lacking this knowledge. The cacao tree has been improved and domesticated to satisfy human requirements, a process which has rendered it weaker to resist attacks from pests and parasites. It is usual to classify man amongst the pests, as either from ignorance or by careless handling he can do the tree much harm.

Other animal pests are the wanton thieves, monkeys, squirrels, and rats. who destroy more fruit than they consume. The insect pests include varieties of beetles, thrips, aphids, scale insects, and ants, whilst fungi are the cause of the canker in the stem and the branches, and the witch broom disease in twigs and leaves, and the black rot of pods. The subject is too immense to be summarized in a few lines, and I recommend readers who wish to know more of this or other, division of the science of Kekayo

cultivation to consult one or more of the four classics in English on this subject. Coco by Herbert Wright, Ceylon, Kekayo by J. Hinchley Hart, Trinidad, 1911.

Cocoa by W.H. Johnson, Nigeria, 1912, or Coco by C.J.J. Van Hall, Java, in 1914. End of Chapter 2 Chapter 3 of Coco and Chocolate

This is a Libravox recording All Libravox recordings are in the public domain For more information or to volunteer Please visit Libravox.org This reading by Alison Hester of Athens, Georgia Cocoa and Chocolate Their History from Plantation to Consumer By Arthur W. Knapp

Chapter 3 Harvesting and Preparation for the Mark it. Gathering and heaping. In the last chapter, I gave a brief account of the cultivation of Kikayo. I did not deal with forking, spraying, cutlassing, weeding, and so forth, as it would lead us too far into purely technical discussions. I propose we assume that the planter has managed his estate well, and that the plantation is before us looking very healthy and full of fruit waiting to be picked. The question arises, how shall we gather it? Shall we shake the tree? Cicayopods do not fall off the tree, even when overwrite. Shall we knock off or pluck the pods?

To do so would make a scar on the trunk of the tree, and these wounds are dangerous in tropical climates, as they are often attacked by canker. A sharp machete or cutlass is used to cut off the pods, which grow on the lower part of the trunk. As the tree is not often strong enough to bury man, climbing is out of the question, and a knife on a pole is used for cutting off the pods on the upper branches. Various shaped knives are used by different planters. A common and efficient kind resembles a hand of steel with the thumb as a hook so that the pod stalk can be cut either by a push or pull. A good deal of ingenuity has been expended in devising a full-proof picker which shall render easy the cutting of the podstock and yet not cut or damage the bark of the

tree. A good example is the Agostini picker which was approved by heart. The gathering of the fruits of one's labor is a pleasant task which occurs generally only at rare intervals. Kekayo is gathered the whole year round. There is, however, in most districts, one principal harvest period, and a subsidiary harvest. With Cicayo in the tropics, as with corn in England, the gathering of the harvest is a delight to lovers of the beautiful. It is a great charm of the Cicayo plantation that the trees are so closely planted that nowhere does the sunlight find between the foliage a space larger than a man's hand. After the universal glare outside, it seems dark under the cacao, although the ground is bright with daffled sunshine. You hear a noise of talking, of rustling leaves, and falling pods.

You come upon a band of coolies or negroes. One near you carries a long bamboo, as long as a fishing rod, with a knife at the end. With a lithe movement, he inserts it between the bowels, and, by giving it a sharp, jerk nearly cuts the stalk of a pod, which falls from the tree to the ground. Only the ripe pods must be picked. To do this, not only must the picker's aim be true, but he must also have a good eye for color. Whether the pods be red or green, as soon as the color begins to be tinted with yellow, it is ripe for picking. This change occurs first along the furrows in the pod. Fewer unright pods would be gathered if only one kind of pod were grown on one plantation.

The confusion of kinds and colors, which is often found, makes sound judgment very difficult. That the men generally judge correctly the ripeness of pods high in the trees is something to wonder at. The pickers pass on, strewing the earth with ripe pods. They are followed by the graceful, dark-skinned girls who gather one by one by one the fallen pods from the greenery until their baskets are full. Sometimes a basket full is too heavy and the girl cannot comfortably lift it onto her head. But when one of the men has helped her to place it there, she carries it lightly enough. She trips through the trees, her bracelets jingling, and tumbles the pods onto the heap. Once one has seen a great heap of cacao pods, it glows in one's

memory, anything more rich, more daring in the way of color one's eye is unlikely to light on. The artist, seeing only, an aesthetic effect, would be content with this for the consummation and would wish the pods to remain unbroken. Breaking and extracting. There are planters who believe that the product is improved by leaving the gathered pods several days before breaking, and they would follow the practice, but for the risk of losses by theft. Hence, the pods are generally broken on the same day as they are gathered. The primitive methods of breaking with a club or by banging on a hard surface are happily little used. Messon of New York made pod-breaking machines, and Sir George Watt has recently invented an ingenious machine for squeezing the beans out of the pod.

but at present the extraction is done almost universally by hand, either by men or women. A knife, which would cut the husk of the pod and was so constructed that it could not injure the beans within, would be a useful invention. The human extractor has the advantage that he or she can distinguish the diseased, unripe, or germinated beans, and separate them from the good ones. Picture the men sitting round the heap of pods, and farther. out, in a larger circle, twice as many girls with baskets. The man breaks the pod, and the girls extract the beans. The man takes the pod in his left hand and gives it a sharp slash with a small

cutlass, just cutting through the tough shell of the pod, but not into the beans inside, and then gives the blade, which he has embedded in the shell, a twisting jerk so that the pod breaks in two with a crisp crack. The girls take the broken pods and scoop out the snow-like beans with a flat wooden spoon or a piece of ribbone, the beans being pulled off the stringy core or placenta, which holds them together. The beans are put preferably into baskets or failing these onto broad banana leaves, which are used as trays. Practice renders these processes cheerful and easy work, often performed to an accompaniment of laughing and chattering. Fermenting

I allow myself the pleasure of thinking that I am causing some of my readers a little surprise when I tell them that cacao is fermented and that the fermentation produces alcohol. As I mentioned above, the cacao bean is covered with a fruity pulp. The bean, as it comes from the pod, is moist, while the pulp. is full of juice. It would be impossible to convey it to Europe in this condition. It would decompose, and when it reached its destination, would be worthless. In order that a product can be handled commercially, it is desired to have in it such a condition that it does not change, and thus, with cacao, it becomes necessary to get rid of the pulp. And whilst this may be done

by washing or simply by drying, experience has shown that the finest and driest product is obtained when the drying is preceded by fermentation. Just as broken grapes will ferment, so will the fruity pulp of the cacao bean. Present-day fermentaries are simply convenient places for storing the cacao whilst the process goes on. In the process of fermentation, Dr. Chittenden says the beans are, stewed in their own juice, end quote. This may be expressed less picturesquely, but more accurately by saying the beans are warmed by the heat of their own fermenting pulp,

from which they absorb liquid. In Trinidad, the cacao, which the girls have scooped out into the baskets, is emptied into larger baskets, two of which are crooked on a mule's back, and carried thus to the fermentary. In Surinam, it is conveyed by, boat and in San Tomé by trucks, which run on Decaville railways. The period of fermentation

and the receptacle to hold the cacao vary from country to country. With cacao of the Criolo type, only one or two days fermentation is required, and as a result, in Ecuador and Ceylon, the cacao is simply put in heaps on a suitable floor. In Trinidad, and the majority of other cacao producing areas where the forestero variety predominates. From five to nine days are required. The cacao is put into the sweat boxes and covered with banana or plantain leaves to keep in the heat. The boxes may measure four feet each way and be made of sweet-smelling cedar wood. As is usual with fermentation, the temperature begins to rise and if you thrust your hands into the fermenting beans, you will find they are as hot and mulesologous as a poultice.

The temperature is the simplest guide to the amount of fermentation taking place, and the uniformity of the temperature in all parts of the mass is desirable, as showing that all parts are fermenting evenly. The kikayo is usually shoveled from one box to another every one or two days. The chief object of this operation is to mix the kakayo and prevent merely low. fermentation. To make mixing easy, one ingenious planter uses a cylindrical vessel which can be turned about on its axis. In other places, for example in Java the boxes are arranged as a series of steps so that the cacao is

transferred with little labor from higher to the lower. In San Tomé the cacao is placed on the plantation direct into trucks which are covered with plantain leaves and run on rail. through the plantation right into the fermentary. Someday some enterprising firm will build a fermentary in portable sections easily erected and with some simple mechanical mixer to replace the present laborious method of turning the beans by manual labor. The general conditions for a good fermentation are one the mass of the beans must be kept warm. Two, the mass of the beans must be moist but

not sodden. Three, in the later stages, there must be sufficient air. Four, the boxes must be kept clean. Changes during fermentation. No entirely satisfactory theory of the changes in cacao due to fermentation has yet been established. It is known that the sugary pulp outside the beans ferments in a similar way to the other fruit pulp, save that for a yeast fermentation. The temperature rises unusually high in three days to 47 degrees Celsius, and also that there are parallel and more important changes in the interior of the bean. The difficulty of establishing a complete theory of fermentation of Kikayo has not daunted the scientists, for they know that the roses of philosophy are gathered by those who can grasp the thornyest problems. Success, however, is so far only partial,

as can be seen by consulting the best introduction on the subject, the admirable collection of essays on the fermentation of cacao, edited by H. Hemel Smith. Here the reader will find the valuable contributions of Fickenday, Loew, Mikkels, Pryor, Schulte, and Sack. The obvious changes which occur in the breaking down of the fruity exterior of the bean should be carefully distinguished from the subtle, changes in the bean itself. Let us consider them separately. A. Changes in the pulp.

Just as grape pulp ferments and changes to wine, and just as weak wine, if left exposed, becomes sour, so the fruity, sugary pulp outside the kakayo bean on exposure, gives off bubbles of carbon dioxide, becomes alcoholic, and later becomes acid. The acid produced is generally the pleasant, vinegar acid. But under some circumstances, it may be lactic acid or the rancet-smelling buteric acid, kismet. The planter trusts to nature to provide the right kind of fermentation. This fermentation is set up and carried on by the minute organisms, yeast, bacteria, etc., which chance to fall on the beans from the air or come from the sides of the receptacle. One yeast cell does not make a fermentation, and as no yeast is added, a day is wasted whilst any

yeasts, which happen to be present, are multiplying to an army large enough to produce a visible effect on the pulp. Any organism, which happens to be on the pod, in the air, or on the inside of the fermentary, will multiply in the pulp if the pulp contains suitable nourishment. Each kind of organism produces its own characteristic changes. It would thus appear a miracle if the same substance were always produced. Yet, just as grape juice left exposed to every microorganism of the air generally changes in the direction of wine more or less good, so that the pulp of cacao tends, broadly speaking, to ferment in one way. It would, however, be a serious error to assume that exactly the same kind of fermentation takes place in any two fermentaries in the world,

and the maximum variation must be considerable. As the pulp ferments, it is destroyed. It gradually changes from white to brown, and a liquid, sweatings, flows away from it. The sweatings taste like sweet cider. At present, this is allowed to run away through holes in the bottom of the box, and no care is taken to preserve what may yet become a valuable byproduct. I found by experiment that in the preparation of 100 count of dry beans, about one and a half gallons of this unstable liquid are produced. In other words, some 7 or 8 million gallons of sweatings run to waste every year. In most cases, only small quantities are produced in one place at one time.

This and the lack of knowledge of scientifically controlled fermentation and the difficulty of bottling prevent the starting of an industry producing either a new drink or a vinegar. The cacao juice or sweatings contains about 15% of solids, about half of which consists of sugars. If the fermentation of the cacao were centralized in the various districts and conducted on a large scale under a chemist's control, the sugars could be obtained, or an alcoholic liquid or vinegar could easily be prepared. The planter decides when the beans are fermented by simply looking at them. He judges their condition by the color of the pulp. When they are ready to be removed from the fermentary, they are plump and brown without and juicy within. B. Changes in the interior

of the bean. What is the relation between the comparatively simple fermentation of the pulp and the changes in the interior of the bean? This important question has not yet been answered, although a number of attempts have been made. As far as is known, the living ferments, microorganisms, do not penetrate the skin of the bean so that any fermentation which takes place must be promoted by unorganized ferments or enzymes. Mr. H. C. Brill found raffinase, invertees, and protease in the pulp, oxidase, raffinase, and sessase, and emulsin-like enzymes in the fresh beam, and all these six, together with the deistase in the fermented beam. Dr. Fickenday says, the object of fermentation is, in the main, to kill the germ of the bean, to kill the germ of the bean, in such a manner that the efficiency of the unorganized ferment is in no way impaired.

From my own observations, I believe that forestero beans are killed at 47 degrees Celsius, which is commonly reached when they have been fermenting 60 hours, for a remarkable change takes place at this temperature and time. Whilst the microorganisms remain outside, the juice of the pulp appears to penetrate not only the skin, but the flesh of the bee. bean and the brilliant violet in the isolated pigment cells becomes diffused more or less evenly throughout the entire bean, including the germ. It is certain that the bean absorbs liquid from the outside, for it becomes so plump that its skin is stretched

to the utmost. The following changes occur. One, taste. An astringent, colorless substance. A tannin, or a body possessing many properties of a tannin, changes to a tasteless brown substance. The bean begins to taste less astringent as the tannin is destroyed. With white creolo beans, this change is sufficiently advanced in two days, but with purple, for ostero beans, it may take seven days. Two, color. The change in the tannin results in the white creolo beans becoming brown, and the purple, for estero beans, but becoming tinged with brown. The action resembles the browning of a freshly cut apple and has been shown to be due to oxygen,

activated by an oxidase, a ferment encouraging combination with oxygen, acting on the astringent, colorless substance, which, like the photographic developer, pyrogallic acid becomes brown on oxidation. Three, aroma. A notable change is that substances are created within the bean, which on roasting produced the fine aromatic odor characteristic of cocoa and chocolate, and which Monsieur's Bainbridge and Davies have shown,

is due to a trace 0.001% of an essential oil over half of which consists of lanallowal. 4. Stimulating effect. It is commonly stated that during fermentation there is generated theobromine, the alkaloid which gives cacao its stimulating properties, but the estimation of the theobromine in fermented and unfurmented beans does not support this. Five, consistency. Fermented beans become crisp on drying. This development may be due to the tannins encountering in their dispersion through the bean

proteins, which are thus converted into bodies, which are brittle solids on drying, compare tanning of hides. The height of the bean may be similarly tanned. The shell certainly becomes leathery and less washed, but a far more probable explanation in both cases is that the gummy bodies in bean and shell set hard on drying. We see then that although fermentation was probably originally followed as the best method of getting rid of the pulp, it has other effects which are entirely good. It enables the planter to produce a drier bean, and one which has, when roasted, a finer flavor, color, and aroma than the unfurmented. Fermentation is generally considered to produce so many desirable results that M. Parrot's

suggestion of removing the pulp by treatment with alkali and thus avoiding fermentation has not been enthusiastically received. Beans which have been dry direct and those which have been fermented may be distinguished as follows. Cicayo beans. Dried Direct. Shape of bean flat. Firmented and dried, shape of bean plumber. Dried direct, the shell is soft and close fitting. Fermented and dried, the shell is crisp and more or less free. Dried direct, the interior color, is slate blue or mud brown. Fermented and dried, the interior color, bright browns and purples. Dried direct, the interior consistence, leather to cheese.

Fermented and dried, interior consistence, crisp. Dried direct, interior appearance, solid. Fermented and dried, interior appearance, open-grained. Dried direct, interior taste. more or less bitter or astringent. Fermented and dried, interior taste, less astringent. While several effects of fermentation have not been satisfactorily accounted for, I think all are agreed that to obtain one of the chief effects of fermentation,

namely the brown color, oxidation is necessary. All recognize that for this oxidation, the presence of three substances is essential. 1. The tannin to be oxidized. 2. Oxygen. 3. An enzyme which encourages oxidation. All these occur in the cacao bean as it comes from the pod. But why oxidation occurs so much better in a fermented bean than in a bean which is simply dried is not very clear. If you cut an apple, it goes brown owing to the action of oxygen absorbed from the air.

but as long as the apple is uncut and unbruised, it remains white. If you take a cacao bean from the pod and cut it, the exposed surface goes brown. But if you ferment the bean, the whole of it gradually goes brown without being cut. My observations lead me to believe that the bean does not become oxidized until it is killed, that is, until it is no longer capable of germination. It can be killed by raising the seeds. temperature by fermentation or otherwise or as dr. Ficcunday has shown by cooling to almost freezing temperatures it may be that killing the bean makes its skin and cell walls more

permeable to oxygen but my theory is that when the bean is killed this integration or weakening of the cell walls etc occurs and as a result the enzyme and tannin hitherto separate, become mixed, and hence able to actively absorb oxygen. The action of oxygen on the tannin also accounts for the loss of astringency on fermentation, and it may be well to point out that fermentation increases the internal surface of the bean exposed to air and oxygen. The bean, during fermentation, actually sucks in liquid from the surrounding pulp and becomes plumber and fuller. On dry however, the skin, which has been expanded to its utmost, wrinkles up as the interior contracts and no longer fits tightly to the bean, and the coddledons having been thrust apart by the liquid

no longer hold together so closely. This accounts for the open appearance of a fermented bean. As on drying, large interspaces are produced. These allow the air to circulate more freely and expose a greater surface of the bean to the action of oxygen. Since the liquids in all living matter presumably contains some dissolved oxygen, the problem is to account for the fact that the tannin in the unfermented bean remains unoxidized, whilst that in the fermented bean is easily oxidized. The above affords a partial explanation and seems fairly satisfactory when taken with my previous suggestion, namely that during fermentation the bean is rendered pervious to water, which, on distributing

itself throughout the bean, dissolves the isolated masses of tannin and diffuses it evenly, so that it encounters and becomes mixed with the enzymes. From this, it will be evident that the major part of the oxidation of the tannin occurs during drying, and hence the importance of this, both from the point of view of the keeping properties of the picaio and its color, taste, and aroma. It will be realized from the above that there is still a vast amount of work to be done before the chemist will be in a position to obtain the more desirable aromas and flavors. Having found the necessary conditions, scientifically trained overseers will be required to produce them, and for this they will need to have under their

direction arrangements for fermentation designed on correct principles and a allowing some degree of control. Whilst improvements are always possible in the approach to perfection, it must be admitted that, considering the means at their disposal, the planters produce a remarkably fine product. Loss on fermenting and drying. The fermented cacao is conveyed from the fermentary to the drying trays or floors. The planter often has some rough check-weighing system. Thus, for example, he notes the number of standard baskets of wet cacao put into the fermentary, and he measures the fermented cacao produced with the help of a bottomless barrel. By this means he finds that on fermentation, the beans lose weight by the draining away of the

sweatings, according to the amount and juiciness of the pulp around them. The beans are still very wet, and on drying lose a high percentage of their moisture by evaporation before the cacao bean of commerce is obtained. The average losses may be tabulated thus. Weight of wet cacao from pod, 100. Loss on fermentation, 20 to 25. Loss on drying, 40. Cicayo beans of commerce obtained 35 to 40.

The drying of cacao is an art. On the one hand, it is necessary to get the beans quite dry, that is in a condition in which they hold only their normal amount of water, 5 to 7%, or they will be liable to go moldy. On the other hand, the husk or shell of the bean must not be allowed to become burned or brittle. Brittle shells produce waste in packing and handling. In broken shells allow grubs and mold to enter the beans when the kikayo is stored. The method of drying varies in different countries,

according to the climate. Jose says, In the wet season when Father Sol chooses to lie low behind the clouds for days, and your cocoa house is full, your curing house full, your trees loaded, then is the time to put on his metal

the energetic and practical planter. In such tight corners, Amigo, I have known a friend to set a fire under his cocoa house to keep the cocoa on the top somewhat warm, Another friend's plan, and he recommended it, was to address his patron saint on such occasions. He never addressed that saint at other times. In most producing areas, sun drying is preferred, but in countries where much rainfalls,

artificial dryers are slowly but surely coming into vogue. These vary in pattern from simple heated rooms with shelves to vacuum stoves and revolving. drums. The sellers of these machines will agree with me when I say that every progressive planter ought to have one of these artificial aids to use during those depressing periods when the rain continually streams from the sky. On fine days, it is difficult to prevent mildew appearing on the cacao, but at such times it is impossible. However, whenever available, the sun's heat is preferable, for it encourages a slow and easy. drying, which lasts over a period of about three days.

Most observers agree with Dr. Sack that the valuable changes which occur during fermentation continue during drying, especially those in which oxygen assists. The full advantage of these is lost if the temperature used is high enough to kill the enzymes, or if the drying is too rapid, both of which may occur with artificial drying. Sun drying is done on cement or brick floors, on koi mats or trays, or on wooden platforms, in order to dry the kakayo. Uniformly, it is raked over and over in the sun.

It must be tenderly treated, carefully watched and caressed until the interior becomes quite crisp and in a color a beautiful brown. Sometimes the platforms are built on top of the fermentary, The cacao being conveyed through a hole in the roof of the firmatory to the drying platform. In Trinidad, the platform always has a sliding roof, which can be pulled over the cacao, in the blaze of noon, or when a rainstorm comes on. In other places, sliding platforms are used, which can be pushed under cover in wet weather. The Washing of cacao

In Java, Ceylon, and Madagascar, before the cacao is dried, it is first washed to remove all traces of pulp. This removal of pulp enables the beans to be more rapidly dried and is considered almost a necessity in Ceylon where sun drying is difficult. The practice appears at first sight wholly good and sanitary, but although beans so treated have a very clean and bright appearance, looking not unlike almonds, the practice cannot be recommended. There is a loss of from 2 to 10% in weight, which is a disadvantage to the planter. Whilst the manufacturer's point of view, washing is objectionable because, according to Dr. Paul Proust, the aroma suffers. Whilst this may be questioned, there is no doubt that washing renders the shells more brittle and frayable, and less able to bear carriage and handling and when the shell is broken the cacao is more liable to attack by grubs and mold therein lies the chief danger of washing claying coloring and polishing cacao

just as in java and cilon to assist drying they wash off the pulp so in venezuela and often in trinidad with the same object they put earth or clay on the beans In Venezuela, it is a heavy, rough coat, and in Trinidad, a film so thin that it is usually not visible. In Venezuela, where fermentation is often only allowed to proceed for one day, the use of fine red earth may possibly be of value. It certainly gives the beans a very pretty appearance. They look as though they have been moistened and rolled in cocoa powder. But in Trinidad, where the fermentation is a lengthy one, The use of clay, though hallowed by custom, is quite unnecessary. In the report of the Commission of Inquiry, we read concerning claying that,

quote, it is said to prevent the bean from becoming moldy in wet weather to improve its marketable value by giving it a bright and uniform appearance and to help preserve its aroma. End quote. In the appendix to this report, the following recommendation occurs. The claying of cacao ought to be avoided as much as possible, and when necessary, only sufficient to give a uniform color, ought to be used. In my opinion, manufacturers would do well to discourage entirely the claying of cacao, either in Trinidad or Venezuela, for from their point of view, it has nothing to recommend it. 1% of clay is sufficient to give a uniform color, but occasionally, considerably more than this is used.

If we are to believe reports, deliberate adulteration is sometimes practiced. Thus, in how Jose formed his cocoa estate, we read, A cocoa dealer of our day, to give a uniform color to the miscellaneous brands he has purchased from Pedro, Dick, or Sammy, will wash the beans in a heat with a mixture of starch, sour oranges, gum arabic, and red ochre. This mixture is always boiled. I can recommend the chinos in this Dodge, who are all adepts in all sorts of adulteration schemes. They even add some grease to this mixture, so as to give the beans that brilliant gloss which you see sometimes. In Trinidad, the usual way of obtaining a gloss is by the curious operation known as dancing, which is performed on the moistened

beans after the clay has been sprinkled on them. It is a quaint sight to see a circle of seven or eight colored folk slowly treading a heap of beans. The dancing may proceed for any period up to an hour, and as they tread, they sing some weird native chant. Somewhat impressed, I remarked to the planter that it had all the appearance of an incantation. He replied that the process cost 2d per 100 weight. Dancing makes the beans look smooth, shiny, and even, and it separates any beans that may be stuck together in clusters. It may make the beans rounder, and it is said to improve their keeping properties, but this remains to be proved. On the whole, if it is considered desirable to produce a glossy appearance,

It is better to use a polishing machine. The weight of the cured cacao bean. Planters and some others may be interested to know the comparative sizes of the beans from the various producing areas of the world. Some ideas of these can be gained by considering the relative weights of the beans as purchased in England. Kind, Granada. Average weight of one bean, 1.0 grams.

of beans to the pound, 450. Para, 1.0 grams, 450 beans to the pound. Bahia, 1.1 grams, 410 beans to the pound. Accra, 1.2 grams, 380 beans to the pound. Trinidad, 1.2 grams, 380 beans to the pound. Cameroons, 1.2 grams, 380 beans to the pound. Ceylon, 1.2 grams, 380 beans to the pound.

Caracas, 1.3 grams, 350 beans to the pound. Machala, 1.4 grams, 330 beans to the pound. Arriba, 1.5 grams, 300 beans to the pound. Karupano, 1.6 grams. 280 beans to the pound. The yield of the Kikayo tree. The average yield of Kikayo has in the past generally been overstated. Whether this is because the planter is an optimist,

or because he wishes others to think his efforts are crowned with exceptional success, or because he takes a simple pride in his district, it is hard to tell. Probably the tendency has been to take the finer estates and put their results down as the average. Of the thousands of flowers that bloom on one tree during the year, on an average, only about 20 develop into mature pods, and each pod yields about one and one-third ounces of dry, cured cacao. Taking the healthy trees with the neglected, the average yield is from one and a half to two pounds of commercial cacao per tree. This seems very small, and those who hear it for the first time often make a rapid mental calculation of the amazing number of trees that must be needed

to produce the world's supply, at least 250 million trees. Or again, taking the average yield per acre as 400 pounds, we find that there must be well over a million acres under Caccio cultivation. At the government station at Aburi, Gold Coast, three plots of Caccio gave in 1914, an average yield of over eight pounds of cacao per tree. And in 1918, some 468 trees, a melanado, gave as an average 7.8 pounds per tree. This suggests what might be done by thorough cultivation. It suggests a great opportunity for the planters, that, without planting one more tree, they might quadruple the world's production.

The work which has been started by the agricultural department, in Trinidad of recording the yield of individual trees has shown that great differences occur. Further, it has generally been observed that the heavy-bearing trees of the first year have continued to be the heavy-bearers, and the poor yielding trees have remained poor during subsequent years. The report rightly concludes that the question of detecting the poor-bearing trees on an estate, and having them replaced by trees raised from selected stock or budding, or grafted trees of known prolific and other good qualities is deserving of the most serious consideration by planters. The kind of cacao that manufacturers like. Planters have suggested to me

that if the users and producers of cacao could be brought together, it would be to their mutual advantage. Permit me to conceive a meeting and report an imaginary conversation. Planter, you No, we planters work a little in the dark. We don't know quite what to strive after. Tell me exactly what kind of cacao the manufacturers want? Manufacturer. Every buyer and manufacturer has his tastes and preferences and planter. Don't hedge.

Manufacturer. The cacao of each producing area has its special characters, even as the wine from a country. And part of the good manufacturer's art is the art of blending. planter. What? Good with bad? Manufacturer. No. Good of one type with a good of another type. Planter. What do you mean exactly by good? Manufacturer. By good I mean large, ripe, well-cured beans. By indifferent, I mean unripe and unfermented. By abominable, I mean germinated, moldy, and grubby beans. Happily, the last class is a quite small one. Planter. You don't mean to tell me

that only the good cacao sells? Manufacturer. Unfortunately no. There are users of inferior beans. Practically all the cacao produced, good and indifferent, is bought by someone. Most manufacturers prefer the fine, healthy, well-fermented kinds. Planter. Well-fermented.

They have a strange way of showing their preference. Why, they often pay more for Guaya Kill than they do for Granada Kakayao. Yet Guaya Kill is never properly fermented, whilst that from Granada Estates is perfectly fermented. Manufacturer. Agreed, just as you would pay more for a badly trained thoroughbred than for a well-trained mongrel. It's the breed they pay for. The Guaya-kill breed is peculiar. There is nothing else like it in the world. You might think the tree has been grafted onto a spice tree. It has a fine characteristic aroma, which is so powerful that it masks the presence of a high percentage of unfermented beans. However, if Guaya Kilkakaya was well

fermented, it would, subject to the iron laws of supply and demand, fetch a still higher price. And there would not be the loss there is in a wet season when the Guaya Kilkakayo, being unfermented goes moldy. I think in Granada they plant for high yield and not for quality, for the bean is small and approaches the inferior calabasillo breed. Its value is maintained by an amazing evenness and uniform excellence during curing. The way in which it is prepared for the market does great credit to the planters. Planter. They don't play there, do they? manufacturer no and yet it is practically impossible to find a moldy bean in granada estates cacao evidently claying is not a necessity in granada planter ha ha by that i suppose you insinuate

that it is not a necessity in trinidad where that curing is also excellent or in venezuela what is the buyer's objection to claying manufacturer simply that claying is camelsic camouflage. Actually, the buyer doesn't mind so long as the clay is not too generously used. He objects to paying for beans and getting clay. However, it's really too bad to color up with clay, the black cacao from diseased pods. It might deceive even an experienced broker. Planter. Ha ha, then it's a very sinful practice. I don't think that ever gets beyond the local tropical market. I know the merchants judge large. by the skin, but I thought the London broker, manufacturer.

You see it's like this, just as you associate a certain label with a particularly good brand of cigar, so the planters mark on the bag and the external appearance of the beans influenced the broker by long association. But just as you cannot truly judge a cigar by the picture on the box, so the broker has to consider what is under the shell of the bean. one or two manufacturers go further, but don't trust merely to tasting with their eyes. They only come to a conclusion when they have roasted a sample. Planter. But a buyer can get a shrewd idea without roasting, surely.

You agree? Well, what exactly does he look for? Manufacturer. Depends what nationality the bean is. I mean, whether it was grown in Venezuela, Brazil, Trinidad, or the Gold Coast. In general, he likes beans with a good break, that is, beans which, under the firm pressure of a thumb and forefinger, break into small crisp nibs. Closeness or cheesiness are dangerous signals. Warnings of lack of fermentation. So is a slate-colored interior. He prefers a pale, even colored interior, cinnamon, chocolate, or cafe color, and planter.

One moment, I've heard before of planters being told to ferment and cure until the bean is a cinnamon color. Why, man, you couldn't get a pale brown interior with beans of the forestero or cabaccio type if you fermented them to rottenness. Manufacturer. True. Well, if the breed on your plantation is purple for estero, and more than half of the cacao in the world is, you must develop as much brown in the beans as possible. They should have the characteristic refreshing odor of raw kakayo together with a faint vinegory odor. The buyers much dislike any foreign smell, any moldy, hammy, or cheesy odor. Planter. And where do the foreign odors come from? Manufacturer. That's debatable. Some come

from bad fermentations due to dirty fermentaries, abnormal temperatures or unripe kakayo. Some come from smoky or or imperfect artificial drying. Some come from mold. Unfermented cacao is liable to go moldy, so is germinated or overripe cacao with broken shells. Some cacao unfortunately gets wet with seawater. There always seems to me something pathetic in the thought of finely cured cacao being drowned in seawater

as it goes out and open boats to the steamer. Planter. You see, we haven't peers in jell. everywhere and often it's a long journey to them well you've told me the buyers note break color and aroma anything else manufacturer they like large beans partly because largeness suggests fineness and partly because with large beans the percentage of shell is less small flat beans are very wasteful and unsatisfactory and they are nearly all shell and very difficult to

separate from the shell Planter. When there's a drought, we can't help ourselves. We produce quantities of small, flat beans. Manufacturer. It must be trying to be at the mercy of the weather. However, the weather doesn't prevent the dirt being picked out of the beans. Buyers don't like more than half a percent of rubbish. I mean stones, dried twig-like pieces of pulp, dust, etc. left in the cacao. Neither do they like to see cobs, that is, two or more beans stuck together, nor planter. How about gloss? Manufacturer. The beauty of a polished bean attracts, although they know the beauty is less than skin deep. Planter and washing? Manufacturer. In my opinion, washing is bad, leaves the shell too

fragile. I believe in Hamburg they used to pay more for washed beans, although very little. I suppose less than 5% of the world's cacao is washed. But in London, many buyers prefer the great unwashed. However, brokers are conservative and would probably look on unwashed Ceylon with suspicion. Planter. Well, I have been very interested in everything you have said, and I think every planter should strive to produce the very best he can. But he does not get much encouragement. Manufacturer. How was that? Planter. There is insufficient difference between the price of the best and the common. Manufacturer. Unfortunately, that is beyond any individual manufacturer's control. The price is controlled by the European and New York markets. I'm afraid that as long as there is so large demand by the public for cheap

cocoa's so long will there be keen competition amongst buyers for the commoner kinds of beans. Planter. The manufacturer should keep some of his own men on the spot to do his buying. They would discriminate carefully, and the differences in price offered would soon educate the planters. Manufacturer True, but as each manufacturer requires cacao from many countries and districts, this would be a very costly enterprise. Several manufacturers have had their own buyers in certain places in the tropics for some years, and it is generally agreed that this has acted as an incentive to the growers to improve quality. But in the main, we have to look to the various government agricultural

departments to instruct and encourage the planters in the use of the best methods. End of Chapter 3. Chapter 4 of Cover 4 of Cover Coco and Chocolate. This is a Libravox recording. All Libravox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit Libravox.org. This reading by Alison Hester of Athens, Georgia. Cocoa and Chocolate, Their History from Plantation to Consumer by Arthur W. Knapp, Chapter 4. Kakayo Production and Cell When one starts to discuss, however briefly, the producing area,

one ought first to take off one's hat to Ecuador for so long the principal producer and then to Venezuela, the land of the original Kikayo, and producer of the finest creolo type. Having done this, one ought to say words of praise to Trinidad, Granada, and Ceylon for their scientific methods of culture in preparation. And last but not least, the newest and greatest producer, the Gold Coast, should receive honorable men. mention. It is interesting to note that in 1918, British possessions produced nearly half, 44% of the world's supply. Whilst the war has not very materially hindered the increase of cacao production in the tropics, the shortage of shipping has prevented the amount exported from maintaining a steady rise. The table below, taken mainly from the Gordian, illustrates this. World production of cacao total in tons one ton equals 1,000 kilograms 1908

194, 19096, 1910, 1910, 120, 1911, 1911 214, 1911 214, 1912, 1913, 258, 1914, 1914, 1914, 1914, 277, 1915, 298, 1916, 297,000, 1916, 297, 1917, 343, 1918, 17, 273, 1919, 431,000. The following table is compiled chiefly for Monsieur's Theo Vasmur and Company's reports in the confectioner's union. Kikayo production of the chief producing areas of the world. One ton equals 1,000 kilograms. Gold Coast 1914, 53,000, 1915, 77,300, 1916, 72,200,

1917, 91,000, 1918, 66,300. Brazil, 1914, 14, 14,800, 1915, 45,000. 1916, 43,700, 1917, 55, 600, 1917, 55, 600, 1918, 41,900. Ecuador, 1914, 47, 200, 1915, 37,000, 1916, 42,700, 1916, 42,700, 1917, 47,700, 1917, 147, 47,200, 1918, 38,000. San Tomé, 1914, 31,400, 1915, 29,900,

1916, 33,200, 1917, 31,900, 1918, 26,600. Trinidad, 1914, 28,400, 1915, 1915, 24,100, 1916, 24,000, 1917, 31,800, 1918, 26,200. San Domingo, 1914, 20,700, 1915, 20,200, 1915, 21, 21,000, 1917, 21,000, 1917, 21, 1917, 21, 1917, 23,700, 1918, 18,800 tons. Venezuela, 1914, 16,900. 1915, 18,300.

1916, 15, 200, 1917, 13,100, 13,100. 1918, 13,000. Lagos, 1914, 4,900. 1915, 9,000. 1916, 9,000, 1917, 15,400, 1918, 10,200. Granada, 1914, 6,100, 1915, 6,500, 1916, 5,500, 1916, 5,500, 1917, 5,500, 1918, 6,700.

Fernando Poe, 1914. 14, 3,100, 1915, 3,900, 1916, 3,800, 1917, 3,700, 1917, 3,700, 1918, 4,200 tons. Ceylon, 1914, 2,900, 1915, 3,900, 1916, 3,500, 1916, 3,500, 1917, 3,700, 1917, 3, 3,700, 1917, 4,000. Jamaica, 1914, 3,800, 1915, 3,600, 1916, 3,400, 1917, 2,800, 1918, 3,000. Suriname, 1914, 1,900, 1915, 1,700, 1915, 1,700, 1916, 2,000, 1917, 1,000, 1,000, 1,000, 16, 1, 11900 1918 2,500 tons Cameroons

1914 1,200 1915, 2,400 1916 3,000 1917, 2,800 1918, 1,300 Haiti 1914, 2100 1915, 1,800,

1915, 1,800, 1916, 1,900, 1917, 1,500, 1918, 2,300. French colonies, 1914, 1,800, 1915, 1,900, 1916, 1,600, 1916, 1,600, 1917, 2,200, 1917, 1,700 tons. Cuba, 1914, 1,600. 1914, 1,800, 1915, 1,700. 1916, 1,500, 1917, 1,517, 1,000, 1,018, 1,000, tons,

Java, 1914, 1,600. 1915, 1,500, 1916, 1,500, 1,500, 1917, 1,500, 1,600, 1918, 800, Samoa, 1914, 1,100, 1915, 900, 1915, 900, 1917, 1,200, 1917, 1,200, 800, Togo, 1914, Togo, 1914, 300, 1915, 300, 1916, 300, 1916, 14, 400, 1917, 1,600, 1918, 1,000, St. Lucia, 1914, 700, 1915, 800, 1916, 700, 1917, 600, 1918, 500, Belgian Congo, 1914, 500,

Belgian Congo, 1914, 500, 1915, 600, 1915, 600, 1915, 600, 1915, 16, and, 16, 800 1917 800 1918 900 Dominica 1914 450 1915 550 1916 300 1917 300 1918 300 St. Vincent 1914 100 1915 100 1915 100 1916 75 1917 50 1917 50 1917 50 19 17 50 19 17 50 191875. Other countries 1914, 3,200, 1915, 3,000, 1916, 3,500, 1917, 3,500, 1917, 3,500, 1917, 3,500. Total tons, 1914, 275, Total tons, 1914, 275,900. 1915, 296,100. 1916, 295,400. 1917, 34,000.

1918, 275,600. Total British Empire. 1914, 102,000, 1915, 128,000. 18,000, 1916, 120,000, 1917, 153, 1918, 119, 1918, 119,000. South American cacao. In the math of South America, given on page 89, the principal cacao producing areas are marked.

Their production in 1918 was as follows. Cicayo beans exported. Brazil, 41,800. 1,865 metric tons. Percentage of the world's production, 15.4. Ecuador, 38,000 metric tons. Percentage of the world's production, 14. Venezuela, 13,000 metric tons.

Percentage of the world's production, 5. Surinam, 2,468 metric tons. Percentage of the world's production, 9 tenths. British Guiana, 20 metric tons. percentage of the world's production 100. South American total, 93,353 tons. Percentage of world's population, 35.31%. Ecuador. Arriba and Machela Cacayos. In Ecuador, for many years, the chief producing area of the world dwell the Cacayo kings,

men who possess very large and wild cacao forests, each containing several million cacao trees. The method of culture is primitive, and no artificial manures are used. Yet, for several generations, the trees have given good crops, and the soil remains as fertile as ever. The two principal cacaoes are known as Arriba and Machala, or classed together as Guayaquil, after the city of that name. Guayaquil, the commercial metropolis of the Republic of Ecuador, is an ancient and picturesque city built almost astride the equator. Despite the unscientific cultural methods and the imperfect fermentation, which results in the cacao containing a high percentage of unfermented beans and not in frequently moldy beans also. This cacao is much appreciated in Europe and America,

for the beans are large and possess a fine, strong flavor and characteristic scented aroma. The amount of guayaquil cacao exported in 1919 was 33,209 tons. An interesting experiment was made in 1912 when a protective association known as the Association of Agriculturist del Ecuador was legalized. This collects half a golden dollar. on every hundred pounds of cacao, and by purchasing and storing cacao on its own account, whenever prices fall below a reasonable minimum, attempts in the planter's interest to regulate the selling price of cacao. Unfortunately, as cacao tends to go moldy when stored in a damp,

tropical climate, the association is not an unmixed blessing to the manufacturer and consumer. Brazil, para and Baja cacayos. Brazil has made marked progress in recent years and has now overtaken Ecuador in quantity of produce. The cacao, however, is quite different from, and not as fine as, that from Guayaquil. The principal cacao comes from the state of Baja, where the climate is ideal for its cultivation. Indeed, so perfect are the natural conditions that formerly no care was taken in cacao production, and much of that gathered was wild and uncured. During the last decade, there has been an improvement,

and this would, doubtless, be more noteworthy, if the means of transport were better, for at present the roads are bad, and the railways inadequate. Hence, most of the cacao is brought down to the city of Baha'ia in canoes. Nevertheless, Baha'ia cacao is better fermented than the peculiar cacao of Pada. Another important cacao from Brazil, which is appreciated by manufacturers on account of its mild flavor.

Bahia exported in 1919 about 51,000 tons of cacao. Venezuela Krakas, Karupano, and Maracaibo cagios Venezuela has been called the classic home of cagio, and had not the chief occupation of its inhabitants been revolution it would have retained till now the important position it held a hundred years ago. It is in this enchanted country that the finest cacao in the world is produced, the Criolo, the bean with the golden brown break.

The tree which produces this is as delicate as the cacao is fine, and there is some danger that this superb caccio may die out, a tragedy which every connoisseur would wish to avert. The Gordion estimates that Venezuela, sent out from her three principal ports in 1919, some 16,226 tons of cacao. In the map of South America, the principal West Indian islands producing cacao are marked. Their production in 1918 was as follows. Cicahio beans exported. Trinidad, British, 26,177 metric tons.

Percentage of the world's production, 9.6.7. San Domingo, 18,839 metric tons, 7% of the world's production. Granada, British, 6,704 metric tons, 2.5% of the world's production. Jamaica, British, 3,000 metric tons, 1.1% of the world's production. Haiti, 2,272 metric tons, 8 tenths of a percent. of the world's production. St. Lucia, British, 500 metric tons, two-tenths of a percent of world's population. Dominica, British, 300 metric tons, one-tenth of a percent of the world's production. St. Vincent, British, 70 metric tons, two-hundredth of a

percent of the world's production. West Indies total, 57,000. 862 tons, 21.42 percent. British West Indies, 36,751 tons, 13.6.3. Trinidad and Grenada. Kekiah was grown in the West Indies in the 17th century, and the inhabitants, after the destructive blast, which utterly destroyed the plantations in 1727, bravely replanted Kekiah. which has flourished there ever since. The kikayos of Trinidad and Granada have long been known for their existence, and it is mainly from Trinidad that the knowledge of methods of scientific cultivation and preparation has been spread to planters all around the equator. The kakayo from Trinidad, famous alike for its kakayo and its pitch lake, has always held a high place

in the markets of the world, although a year or two ago, the enclose. The enclosures of the enclave, the enclosures of inferior cacao and the practice of claying was abused by a few growers and merchants. With the object of stopping these abuses and of producing a uniform cacao, there was formed a cacao planters association whose business it is to grade and bulk and sell on a cooperative basis, the cacao produced by its members. This experiment has proved successful and in 1918, the Association handled the cacao from over 100 estates. We may expect to see more of these cacao planters associations formed in various parts of the world, for they are in line with the trend of the times towards large and ever larger unions and combinations. Trinidad is also progressive

in its system of agricultural education and in its formation of agricultural credit societies. The neighboring island of Granada is mountainous, smaller than the Isle of White, and, if the Irish will forgive me, greener than Aaron's Isle. The methods of cacao cultivation in vogue there might seem natural to the British farmer, but they are considered remarkable by cacao planters, for in Grenada, the soil on which the trees grow is forked or tilled. possibly from this follows the equally remarkable corollary that the cacao trees flourish without a single shade tree the preparation of a bean receives as much care as the cultivation of the tree and the cacao which comes from the estates has an unvaryed constancy of quality not infrequently giving one hundred per cent of perfectly prepared beans it is largely due to this that the cacio from this small island occupies such an important position on the London market. The cacao from San Domingo is known commercially as Samana or Sanchez. A fair proportion is of inferior quality and is little appreciated on the European markets.

The bulk of it goes to America. The production in 1919 was about 23,000 tons. In the map of Africa, the principal producing areas are marked. Their production in 1918 was as follows. Cicayo beans exported. Gold Coast, British, 66,343 metric tons, 24.5% of the world's production. San Tomé, 19,185 metric tons, 7.1% of the world's population. Lagos, British, 10,223 metric tons, 3.8%.

of the world's production. Fernando Poe, 4,220 metric tons, 1.6% of the world's production. Cameroons, 1,250 metric tons, 0.4% of the world's production. Togo, 1,000 metric tons, 0.4% of the world's production. Belagin Congo, 875,000%. metric tons, 0.3% of the world's production. African total, 103,096 times, 38.1% of the world's production. British Africa, 76,56,000, 28.3% of the world's production. The Gold Coast, Acra Cacayo

The name recalls stories of a romantic and awful past in which gold and the slave trade played their terrible part. Happily, these things are of the past. So is the deadly climate. We are told

that it is now no worse than that of the other tropical countries. According to Sir Hugh Clifford, until recently, Governor of the Gold Coast, the West African climatic boge is a myth and the monumental reputation for unhealthiness undeserved.

When Descandoli wrote concerning Cicayo, I imagine it would succeed on the Guinea coast. As the West African coast is sometimes called, he achieved prophecy, but he little dreamed how wonderful this success would be. The rise and growth of the Cicayo growing industry in the Gold Coast is one of the most extraordinary development. of the last few decades.

In 30 years, it has increased its export of Kikayo, from nothing to 40% of the total of the world's production. Production of Kikayo on the Gold Coast. Year. 1891. Quantity, zero tons, 80 pounds. Value in pounds, four. 1896, 34 tons.

value in pounds, 2,276. 1901, 980 tons. Value in pounds, 42,837. 1906, 8,975 tons. Value in pounds, 336,26, 269. 169. 1911, 30,798 tons. Value in pounds, 1,613,468.

1916, 72,161, 161. Value in pounds, 3,847, 720. 1917, 90, 964 tons. Value in pounds, 3,146,851. 851. 1918, 66,343 tons. Value in pounds, 1,796,985. 191919, 177, tons. Value in pounds, 8 million. The conditions of production in the Gold Coast present a number of features entirely novel. We hear from time to time of concessions being granted in

tropical regions to this or that company of enterprising European capitalists who employ a few Europeans and send them to the area to manage the industry. The inhabitants of the area become the manual wage earners of the company and too often in the lust for profits or as an offering to the god of commercial efficiency, the once easy and free life of the native is lost forever and a form of wage slavery takes its place with doubtful effects on the life and health of the workers. In defense, it is pointed out that yet another portion of the earth has been made productive, which, without the initiative of European capitalists, must have lain follow. But in the Gold Coast, the indolent native has created a new industry entirely native-owned,

and in 30 years, the Gold Coast has outstripped all the areas of the world in quantity of produce. 40 years ago, the natives had never seen a cacao tree. Now, at least 50 million trees flourish in the colony. This could not have happened without the strenuous efforts of the Department of Agriculture. The Gold Coast now stands head and shoulders above any other producing area for quantity. The problem of the future lies in the improvement of quality, and difficult though this problem be, we cannot doubt, given a fair chance, that the far-sighted and energetic agricultural department will solve it.

Indeed, it must injustice be pointed out that already a very marked improvement has been made, and now 50 to 100 times as much good fermented kakayo is produced as there was 10 years ago. However, if a high standard is to be maintained, the work of the Department of Agriculture must be supplemented by the willingness of the kikayo buyers, to pay a higher price for the better qualities. The phenomenal growth of this industry is the more remarkable when we consider the lack of roads and beasts of burden. The usual pack animals, horses and oxen, cannot live on the Gold Coast because of the Tetsi fly,

which spreads amongst them the sleeping sickness. And so the native, used as he is to heavy head loads, naturally adopted this as his first method, of transport and hundreds of the less affluent natives arrive at the collecting centers with great weights of cacao on their heads women and children light-hearted chattering and cheerful bear their 60 pounds head loads with infinite patience heavier loads approaching sometimes 200 weight are borne by grave silent hossaman often a distance of over 30 or 40 miles one day, not so many years ago, some more ingenious natives in the hills at the back of the coast

filled an old palm barrel with Kikayo and rolled it down the ways to Accra. And now today, it is a familiar sight to see a man trundling a huge barrel of Kikayo, weighing half a ton down to the coast. The sound of a motor horn is heard, and he wildly turns the barrel aside to avoid a disastrous collision with the new, weird transport animal from Europe. Motor lorries have been used with great effect on the coast for some seven years. They have the advantage over pack animals that they do not succumb to the bite of the dreaded Tetsy fly, but nevertheless, not a few derelicts lie or stand on their heads in the ditches, the victims of overwork or accident. having brought the kakayo to the coast, there yet remains the lighter edge to the ocean liner,

which lies anchored some two miles from the shore, rising and falling to the great rollers from the broad Atlantic. A long boat is used, manned by some 20 swarthy natives who glory, vocally, in their passage through the dangerous surf, which roars along the sloping beach. The kakayo is piled high, on wood racks and covered with tarpaulins and seldom shares the fate of passengers and crew who are often drenched in the surf before they swing by a crane in the primitive mammy chair high but not dry on board the hospitable elder dimpster line san tome we now turn from the gold coast and the success of native ownership to another part of west africa a scene of singular beauty where the Portuguese planters have triumphed over savage nature.

Two lovely islands, San Tomé and its little sister isle of Princepe, lie right on the equator in the Gulf of Guinea, about 200 miles from the African mainland. A warm, lazy sea, the sea of the doldrums, sapphire or turquoise, or in deep-shaded pools, a radiant green, joyfully foams itself away against these fairy lands of tossing palm, dense vegetation, rushing cascades, and purple precipitous peaks. A soil of volcanic origin is covered with rich humus of decaying vegetation, and this, with a soft,

humid atmosphere, makes an ideal home for cacao. The bean, introduced in 1822, was not cultivated with diligence till 50 years ago. Today, the two islands, which together have not half the area of Surrey, grow 32,000 metric tons of cacao a year, or about one-tenth of the world's production. The income of a single planter, once a poor peasant, has amounted to hundreds of thousands of sterling. Dotted over the islands, here nestling on a mountainside, there overlooking some blue inlet of the sea, are more than 200 plantations, or Rojas, whose buildings look like islands and a green sea of cacao shrubs above which rise the gray stems of such forest trees as have been left to afford shade. Here not only have the cultivation, fermentation,

and drying of cacao been brought to the highest state of perfection, but the details of organization. Planters' homes, hospitals, cottages, drying sheds, and de Cahville railways are often models of their kind. Intelligent and courteous, the planters make delightful hosts at their homes 5,000 miles away from Europe. The visitor, who knows what it means

to struggle with steaming virgin forests, rank encroaching vegetation, deadly fevers, and the physical and mental inertia engineered by the tropics will marvel at the courage and energy that have triumphed over such obstacles, calculating from various

estimates, each laborer in the islands appears to produce about 1,640 pounds of Caccio yearly, and the average yield per cultivated acre is 480 pounds, or about 30 pounds more than that of Trinidad in 1898. There is no available labor in San Tomé. The planters get their workers from the mainland of Africa. Prior to the year 1908, the labor system of the island was responsible for grave abuses. This has now been changed. Natives from the Portuguese colonies of Angola in Mozambique now enter freely into contracts, ranging from one to five years, two years being the time generally chosen. At the end of their term of work, they either re-contract or return to their native land with their savings, with which they generally buy a wife. The readiness with which the natives

volunteer for the work on the islands is proof both of the soundness of the system of contract and of the good treatment they receive at the hands of the planters. Unfortunately, the mortality of the plantation labors has generally been very heavy, one large and well-managed estate, recording on average of seven years, an annual death rate of 148 per thousand, and many Rokas still have more appalling records. Against this, other plantations only a few miles away may show a mortality approximating to that of an average European city. In February, 1918, the workers in San Tomé number 39,605, and the deaths during the previous year, 1917, were 1,808, thus showing on official figures an annual mortality of 45 per thousand. Comparing this with the 26 per thousand of

Trinidad and remembering that most of the San Tomé laborers are in the prime of life, it will be seen that this death rate represents a heavy loss of life and justifies the continued demand from the British cocoa manufacturers for the appointment and report of a special medical commission. The Portuguese government is prepared to meet this demand, for it has recently sent a commissioner, Dr. Joquim Guaiva, to San Tomé, to make a thorough examination of labor conditions, including work, food, housing, hospitals, and medical attendance, and to report fully and confidentially to the Portuguese colonial secretary. If this important step is followed by adequate measures of reform, there is every reason to hope that the result will be a material reduction in the death rate, as the good health enjoyed on some of the Rokas shows San Tomé to be not more unhealthy than other tropical islands. Cameroons The Cameroons, which we took from the Germans in 1916, is also on the west coast of Africa. It lags far behind the gold. coast and output, although both commenced to grow Kukayo about the same time.

The Germans spent great sums in the Cameroons in giving the industry a scientific basis. They adopted the estate plan, and possibly the fact that they employ contract labor, explains while they have not had the same phenomenal success that the natives working for themselves have achieved on the Gold Coast. Various countries and districts, which are responsible for about 97, percent of the world's cacao crop have now been named and briefly commented upon. Of other producing areas, the islands, Ceylon, and Java are worthy of mention. And both of these, as also in Venezuela, Samoa, and Madagascar, is grown the Criolo Cicayo, which produces the plump, sweet

beans with the cinnamon brake. Cicayo beans from Ceylon or Java are easily recognized by their appearance because being washed they have beautiful clean shells but there is a serious objection to washed shells namely that they are brittle and as thin as paper so that many are broken before they reach the manufacturer. Ceylon is justly famous for its fine old red along with this a fair quantity of inferior caccio is produced which by being called Ceylon such as the power of a good name tends to claim a higher price than its quality warrants. Kikayo Markets From the plantation to the European market.

It is mentioned above that on the Gold Coast, Kikayo is brought down to Accra as headloves, or in barrels, or in motor lorries. These methods are exceptional. In other countries, it is usually put in sacks at the estate. Every estate has its own characteristic, mark, which is stamped on the bags, and this is recognized by the buyers in Europe and gives a clue to the quality of the contents. There is not as yet a uniform weight for a bag of Kakaio, although they

all vary between one and two hundred count. Thus, the bags from Africa contain one and one-fourth hundred weight, whilst those from Guayaquil contain one and three-quarters hundred weights. In these bags, the cacaya was taken to the port on the back of mules, in horse or ox carts, in canoes down a stream, or more rarely by rail. It is then conveyed by lighters or surfboats to the great ocean liners, which lie anchored off the shore. In the hold of the liner, it has rocked thousands of miles over the azure seas of the tropics to the gray green seas of the temperate zone. In pre-war days, a million bags used to go to.

Hamburg, three quarters of a million to New York, half a million to Haver, and only a trifling quarter of a million to London. Now London is the leading Kikayo market of the world. During the war, the supplies were cut off from Hamburg, whilst Liverpool, becoming a chief port for African Kikayo, in 1916 imported a million bags. Then New York began to gorge Kikayo, and in 1917 created a record importing some two and a half million bags or about 150,000 tons. Whilst everything is in so fluid a condition, it is unwise to prophesy. It may, however, be said that there are many who think, now that the consumption of cocoa and chocolate in America

has reached such a prodigious future that New York may yet oust London and become the central dominating market of the world. difficulties of buying. Every country produces a different kind of cacao, and the caccio from any two plantations in the same country often shows wide variation. It may be said that there are as many kinds of cacao as there are of apples, cacao showing as marked differences as exhibited by crabs and Blandheims, not to mention James Greaves, Russets, Worcester-Permains,

Newton wonders, Lord Derbies, Belle de Bascoops, and so forth. Further, whilst the bulk of the cacao is good and sound, a little of the cacao grown in any district is liable to have suffered from drought or from attacks by molds or insect pests. It will be realized from these fragmentary remarks that the buyer must exercise perpetual vigilance. Kikayo sells Before the Cocoa Prices orders were published, March 1918, the manner of conducting the sale of Kauayo in London was as follows. Brokers lists giving the kinds of Kau for sale and the number of bags of each were sent together with samples to the buyers some days beforehand so that they were able to decide what they wished to purchase and the price they were willing to pay.

The sales always took place at 11 o'clock on Tuesdays in the commercial sale room in Mincing Lane, that narrow street off Finshirt Street, where the air is so highly charged with expert knowledge of the world's produce, that it would illuminate the prosaic surroundings with brilliant flashes if it could become visible. On the morning of the sale, samples of the cacaoes are on exhibit at the principal brokers. The man in the street brought into the broker's office would ask what these strange beans might be. A new kind of almond, he might ask. And then, on being told they were cacao, he would see nothing to choose between all the various lots and wonder why so much fuss was made over discriminating amongst the similar and distinguishing the identical.

He might even marvel a little at the expert knowledge of the buyers. yet, frankly, the pertinent facts concerning quality known by the buyer are fewer and no more difficult to learn than the thousand and one facts a lad must have at his finger ends to pass the London matriculation. They are valued because they are inaccessible to the multitude. Only a few people have the opportunity of learning them, and their use may make or mar fortunes. The judgment of quality is, however, only one side of the art of biopies. We have to add to these a knowledge of the conditions prevailing in the various markets of the world, a knowledge of stocks and probable supplies, and given this knowledge, an ability to estimate their effect, together with other conditions, agricultural, political and social, on the price of the commodity.

The room in which the sales are conducted is not a large one, and usually not more than a hundred people, buyers, pressmen, etc. are present. Not a single cacao being as visible, and it might be an auction sale of property for all the uninitiated could tell. The cacao is put up in lots. Usually, the sales proceed quietly, and it is difficult to realize that many thousands of bags of cacao are changing hands. The buyers have perfect trust in the broker's descriptions. They know the invariable fair play of the British broker, which is a buy word the world over. The machinery of the proceedings is lubricated by an easy flow of humor. Sometimes a few bags of sea-damaged cacao or of cacao sweepings are put up, and a good deal of keenness is shown by the individuals who buy this stuff. It is curious that a

whole crowd of busy people will allow their time to be taken up whilst there is a spirited fight between two or three buyers for a single bag. Whilst the London auction sales are of importance, as fixing the prices for the various markets and reflecting to a certain extent the position of supply and demand, only a fraction of the world's kakayo changes hands at the auction sales, the greater part of it being bought privately for forward delivery. The price of kakayo is liable to fluctuations like every other product, Thus, in 1907, Trinidad Kikayo rose to one shilling a pound, whilst there have been periods when it has only fetched six pence per pound. On April 2, 1918, the food controller fixed the prices of the finest qualities of the different varieties of raw kukayo as follows.

British West, Africa, Acra, 65S per 100 weight. Bahia Cameroons, San Tomé, Congo and Granada, 85s per 100 weight. Trinidad, Demerara, Guayaquil, Suriname, 90s per 100 weight. Ceylon, Java, and Samoa, 100s per 100 weight. The diagram on page 113 shows the average market price in the United Kingdom of some of the more important cacaoes before. during and after the war. The most striking change is the sudden rise when the government control was removed. All cacayos showed a substantial advance

varying from 80 to 150% on pre-war values. Further, large advances have taken place in the early months of 1920. The Call of the Tropics Many a young man reading in some delightful book of travel has longed to go to the tropics and see the wonders for himself. There can be no doubt that a sojourn in equatorial regions is one of the most educative of experiences. In support of this, I cannot do better than to quote Grant Allen, who regarded the tropics as the best of all universities. But above all, in educational importance, I rank the advantage of seeing human nature in its primitive surroundings, far from the squalid and chilly influences of the tail end of the glacial epoch. We must forget all this formal

modern life. We must break away from this cramped, cold northern world. We must find ourselves face to face at last in Pacific Isles or African forests with underlying truths of simple, naked nature. Many will recall how Charles Kingsley's longing to see the tropics was ultimately satisfied. In his book, in which he describes how he at last visited the West Indies, we read that he encountered a happy Scotchman living a quiet life in the dear little island of Manos. I looked at the natural beauty and repose, at the human vigor and happiness, and I said to myself, and said it often afterwards in the West Indies, why do not other people copy this wise, Scott? Why should not many a young couple who have education, refinement, resources in themselves, but are happily

or unhappily for them, unable to keep a Broman and go to London balls, retreat to some such paradise as this, and there are hundreds like it to be found in the West Indies, leaving behind them a false civilization and vain desires and useless show, and there live in simplicity and content, the gentle life. The planter's life. Few who go to the tropics escape their fascination, and of those that are young,

few return to colder climes. Some become overseers, others, more fortunate, own the estates they manage. It is inadvisable for the inexperienced to start on the enterprise of buying and planting an estate with less capital than two or three thousand pounds,

towns, but once established, a cacao plantation may be looked upon as a permanent investment, which will continue to bear and give a good yield as long as it receives proper attention. In the recently published Letters of Anthony Farley, the writer tells how Farley encounters in South America, an old college friend of his, who in his early days was on the high road to a brilliant political career. Here he is, a planter. He explains. My mother was Spanish. Her brother owned this place.

When he died, it came to me. How did your uncle hold it through the various revolutions? Nothing simpler. He became an American citizen. When trouble threatened, he made a beeline for the United States consulate. I'm British, of course. Well, just when I had decided upon a political life, I found it necessary to come here to straighten things out.

One month lengthened itself into a year. I grew fascinated. Here I felt a sense of immense usefulness. On the mountain side, my coffee trees flourished. Down in the valley grew Kekayo. I grow mine on undulations. You need it, you know, so long as you drain. Yes, but draining on the flat is the devil. Anyhow, I always liked animals. You haven't seen my pigs yet. And horses, and mules need careful tending. A cable arrived one morning, announcing an impending dissolution. I felt like an unwilling bridegroom

called to marry an ugly bride. I invited my soul. Here, thought I to myself, are animals and foodstuffs. Good, honest food at that. If I go back, it is only to fill people's bellies with political east wind.

To come to the point, I decided to grow coffee and kikayo. I cabled infinite regrets. The decision once made, I was as happy as a sandboy. Jesuit, greest, I said to myself, said I, nor have I ever cast one longing look behind. This is fiction, but I think it is true that very few, if any, who become planters in the tropics,

ever return permanently to England. The hospitality of the planters is proverbial. There must be something good and free about the planter's life to produce so many men and so genial and generous. There is a picture that I often recall, and never without pleasure. A young planter and I had, with the help of more or less willing mules, climbed over the hills from one valley to the next. The valley we had left is noted for its beauty, but to me it had become familiar. The other valley I saw now for the first time.

The sides were steep and covered with trees, and I could only see one dwelling in the valley. We reached this by a Sir Kirchua's path through the Kikayo trees. Approaching it as we did, the bungalow seemed completely cut off from the rest of the world. We were welcomed by the planter and his wife, and by those of the children who were not shy. I have never seen more chubby or jolly kitties, and I know from the sweetness of the children that their mother must have been. have given them unremitting attention. I wondered indeed if she ever left them for a moment. I knew, too, from the situation of the bungalow in the heart of the hills that visitors were not likely to be frequent. The planter's life is splendid for a man who likes open air in nature,

but I had sometimes thought that their wives would not find the life so good. I was mistaken. When we came away, after riding some distance, through a gap in the cacao, we saw across the valley a group of happy children. They saw us and all of them. Even the shy ones waved us, adieu. End of chapter four. Chapter 5 of Coco and Chocolate. This is the Libravox recording. All Libravox recordings are in the public domain.

For more information or to volunteer, please visit Libravox. This reading by Allison Hester of Athens, Georgia. Cocoa and Chocolate Their History from Plantation to Consumer By Arthur W. Knapp. Chapter 5 The Manufacturer of Coco and Chocolate Early Methods in the Tropics

As the Cicayo Bean is grown in tropical countries, it is there that we must look for the first attempts at manufacturing from it a drink or a food stuff. The primitive method of preparation was very simple, consisting in roasting the beans in a pot or on a shovel to develop their flavor, winnowing in the wind, and then rubbing the broken-shaled beans between stones until quite fine. The curious thing is that on grinding the kakayo bean in the heat of a tropical day, we do not produce a powder but a paste. This is because half the cacao bean consists of a fat, which is liquid at 90 degrees Fahrenheit, a temperature which is reached in the shade in tropical countries.

This paste was then made into small rolls and put in a cool place to set. Thus was produced the primitive unsweetened drinking chocolate. This is the method, which Elizabethans, who ventured into the tangled forests of Equatorial America, found in use. And this is the method they brought home to Europe. In the tropics, these simple processes are followed to this day, but in Europe they have undergone many elaborations and refinements. If the reader will look at the illustration entitled Women Grinding Chocolate, he will see how the brittle roasted bean is reduced to a paste in primitive manufacture. A stone, shaped like a rolling pin, is being pushed to and fro over a concave slab, on which the smashed beans have already been reduced to a paste of doughy consistency.

Early European Manufacture The conversion of the small-scale operations into the early factory process is well shown in the plate, which I reproduce above from arts and sciences, published in 1768. A certain atmosphere of dreamy intellectuality is associated with coffee so that the roasting of it is felt to be a romantic occupation. The same poetic atmosphere surrounded the manufacture of drinking chocolate in the early days. The writers who revealed the secrets of its preparation were conscious that they were giving man a new aesthetic delight, and the subject is treated lovingly and lingeringly. One, Pietro Metastasio, went so far as to write a cantata describing its manufacture. He describes the grinding as being done by a vigorous man, and truly, to grind by hand,

is a very laborious operation, which happily, in more recent times, has been performed by the use of power-driven mills. Operations on a large scale followed the founding of Friensons at Bristol in 1728, and of Lombart, La Plus Anciennes Chocolataria de France. In Paris, in 1760, in Germany, the first chocolate factory was erected at Steinhund in 1756, under the patronage of Prince Wilhelm, whilst in America, the well-known firm of Walter Baker and company began in a small way in 1765. From the methods adopted in these factories have gradually developed the modern processes which I am about to describe. Modern practice. As the early stages in the manufacture of cocoa and chocolate are often identical, the processes which are common to both are first described,

and then some individual consideration is given to each. A, arrival at the factory. The Kikayo is largely stored in warehouses from which it is removed as required. It has remarkable keeping properties and can be kept in a good store for several years without loss of quality. Samples of kakayo beans and glass bottles have been found to be in perfect condition after 30 years. Some factories have stores in which stand thousands of bags of kakayo drawn from many ports round the equator. There is something very pleasing about huge stacks of bags of cacao seen against the luminous white walls of a well-lighted store. The symmetry of their construction and the continued repetition of the same form are never better shown than when the men, climbing up the sides of a stack against which they look small,

unbuild the mighty heap, the bags falling onto a continuous band which carries them jauntily out of the store. B. Sorting the beans As all cacao is liable to contain a little free shell, dried pulp, often taken for twigs, threads of sacking and other foreign matter, it is carefully sieved and sorted before passing on to the roasting shop. In this process, Curios are occasionally separated, such as palm kernels, cowrie shells, shay butternuts,

good luck seeds, and crab's eyes. The essential part of one type of machine, which accomplishes this sorting, is an inclined revolving cylinder of wire galls along which the beans pass. The cylinder forms a continuous set of sieves of different sized mesh, one sieve allowing only sand to pass, another only very small beans or fragments of beans. And finally, one holding back anything larger than a single bean. e.g. Cobbs, that is, a collection of two or more beans stuck together. Another type of cleaning machine is illustrated by the diagram on the opposite page.

This machine, with its shaking sieves and a blast of air, makes a great clatter and fuss. It produces, however, what the manufacturer's desire, a clean bean sorted to size. C. Roasting the beans As with coffee, so with cacao. The characteristic flavor and aroma are only developed on roasting. Monsieur's Bainbridge and Davies, chemists to Monsieur's roundtree, have shown that the aroma of cacao is chiefly due to an amazingly minute quantity, 0.006% of linelul, a colorless liquid with a powerful,

fragrant odor. a modification of which occurs in birgamot, coriander, and lavender. Everyone notices the aromatic odor which permeates the atmosphere around a chocolate factory. This odor is a byproduct of the roasting shop. Possibly some day an enterprising chemist will prevent its escape or capture it and sell it in bottles for flavoring confectionery. But for the present, it serves only to announce in an appetizing way, the presence of cocoa or chocolate works.

Roasting is a delicate operation, requiring experience and discretion. Even in these days of scientific management, it remains as much an art as a science. It is conducted in revolving drums to ensure constant agitation, the drums being heated either over Coke fires or by gas. Less frequently, the heating is affected by a hot blast of air or by having inside the drum a number of pipes containing superheated steam. The diagram and the photo show one of the types of roasting machines used at Bourneville. It resembles an ordinary coffee roaster. The beans being fed in through a hopper and heated by gas in the slowly revolving cylinder.

The beans can be heard lightly tumbling one over the other, and the aroma around the roaster increases in fullness as they get hotter and hotter. The temperature which the beans reach in an ordinary roasting is not very high, varying around 135 degrees Celsius, 275 degrees Fahrenheit, and the average period of roasting is about one hour. The amount of loss of weight on roasting is considerable, some 7 or 8%, and varies with the amount of moisture present in the raw beans. There have been attempts to replace the aesthetic judgment,

of man. As to the point at which to stop roasting by scientific machinery, one rather interesting machine was so devised that the kikayo roasting drum was fitted with a sort of steel yard, and this, when the loss of weight due to roasting had reached a certain amount, swung over and rang

a bell, indicating dramatically that the roasting was finished. As beans vary amongst other things in the percentage of moisture which they contain, the machine has not replaced the experienced operator. He takes samples from the drum from time to time, and when the aroma has the character desired, the beans are rapidly discharged into a trolley with a perforated bottom, which is brought over a cold current of air. The object of this refinement is to stop the roasting instantly and prevent even a suspicion of burning.

After the roasting, the shell is brittle and quite free from the Caudilden's or kernel. The kernel has become glossy and frayable and chocolate brown in color and it crushes readily between the fingers into small angular fragments, the nibs of commerce, giving off during the breaking down a rich warm odor of chocolate. D. Removing the shells. It has been stated that it was formally the practice not to remove the shell. This is incorrect. The more usual practiced from the earliest times has been to remove the shells, though not so completely as they are removed by the efficient machinery of today.

In a curious treaty on the nature and quality of chocolate by Antonio Colmenero de Dezma, 1685, we read, quote, and if you peel the cacao and take it out of its little shell, the drink thereof will be more dainty and delicious. quote. Willoughby, in his travels in Spain, 1664, writes, quote, they first toast the berries to get off the husk. And R. Brooks in the natural history of chocolate, 1730, says, quote, the Indians roast the kernels in earthen pots, then free them from their skins, and afterwards crush and grind them between two stones, end quote. He further definitely recommends that the beans, quote, be roasted enough to have

their skins come off easily, which should be done one by one layering them apart, for these skins being left among the chocolate will not dissolve in any liquor, nor even in the stomach, and fall to the bottom of the chocolate cups, as if the kernels had not been cleaned, end quote. That the Indian practice of removing the shells was followed from the commencement of the industry in England is shown by the old plate which we have reproduced on page 120 from arts and sciences the removal of the shell which in the raw condition is tough and adheres to the kernel is greatly facilitated by roasting if we place a roasted bean in the palm of the hand and press it with the thumb the hole cracks up into crisp pieces it is

now quite easy to blow away the thin pieces of shell because they offer a greater surface to the air and are lighter than the little compact lumps or nibs which are left behind. This illustrates the principle of all shelling or husking machines. E. Breaking the bean into fragments. The problem is to break down the bean to just the right size. The pieces must be sufficiently small to allow the nib and shell readily to part company. But it is important to remember that the smaller the pieces of shell and nib, the less efficient will the winnowing be. And it is usual to break the beans whilst they are still warm to avoid producing particles of extreme fineness. The breaking down may be accomplished by passing the beans through a pair of rollers at such a distance apart

that the bean is cracked without being crushed. Or it may be affected in other way. e.g. by the use of an adjustable serrated cone revolving in a serrated conical case. In the diagram, they are called kibbling cones. F. Separating the germs. About 1% of the kakayo bean fragments consists of germs. The germ is the radical of the kakayo seed, or that part of the kakio seed, which on germination, forms the root. The germs are small and rod-shaped, and being very hard are generally assumed to be less digestible than the nib. They are separated by being passed through revolving gall's drums, the holes in which are the same size and shape as the germs, so that the germs pass through whilst the nib is retained.

If a freakish carpenter were to try separating shop floor sweepings consisting of a jumble of chunks of wood, nib, shavings, shell, and nails, germ by seaving through a gridiron, he would find that not only the nails passed through, but also some sawdust and fine shavings. So in the above machine, the finer nib and shell pass through with the germ. This germ mixture, known as smalls, is dealt with in a special machine whilst the larger nib and shell are conveyed to the chief winnowing machine. In this machine, the mixture is first sorted according to size, and then the nib and shell separated from one another. The mixture is passed down long, revolving cylindrical sieves and encounters a larger and larger mesh as it proceeds, and thus becomes sieved into various sizes. The separation of the shell from the nib

is now affected by a powerful current of air, the large nib falling against the current, whilst the shell is carried with it and drops into another compartment. It is amusing to stand and watch the continuous stream of nibs rushing down like hail in a storm into the screw conveyor. This is the process, in essence, to follow the various partially separated mixtures of shell and nib through the several further separating machines would be tedious. It is sufficient for the reader to know that after the most elaborate precautions have been taken, the nib still contains about 1% of shell, and that the nib obtained is only 78.5% of the weight of raw beams originally taken. Most of the larger makers of cocoa produce nib containing

less than 2% of shell, a standard which can only be maintained by continuous vigilance. The shell, the only waste material of any importance produced in a chocolate factory, goes straight into sacks ready for sale. The pure cacao nibs, once an important article of commerce, proceed to the blenders, and thence to the grinding meal. G, blending. We have seen that the beans are roasted separately according to their kind and country, so as to develop in each its characteristic flavor.

The pure nib is now blended in proportions which are carefully chosen to attain the result desired. H. grinding the cacao nibs to produce mass. In this process, by the mere act of grinding, the miracle is performed of converting the brittle fragments of the cacao bean into a chocolate colored fluid. Half of the cacio bean is fat, and the grinding breaks up the cells and liberates the fat, which, as a little. blood heat melts to an oil. Any of the various machines used in the industries for grinding might be used, but a special type of mill has been devised for the purpose. In the grinding room of a cocoa factory, one becomes almost hypnotized by a hundred of these circular mill stones that rotate incessantly day and night. In Monsieur Fries factory, the giddy motion of the whirling

mill is very much increased by a number of magnificent horizontal driving wheels, each some 20 feet in diameter, which form, as it were, a revolving ceiling to the room. Your fascinated gaze beholds two or three vast circles that have their revolving satellites like moons, each on its own axis, and each governed by master wheels. Watch them for any length of time, and you might find yourself presently going round and round with them until you whirled yourself out of existence, like the gyrating maiden in the fairy tale. In this type of grinding machine, one millstone rotates on a fixed stone. The cacao nib falls from a hopper through a hole in the center of the upper stone and owing to the manner in which grooves are cut in the two surfaces in contact is

gradually dragged between the stones. The grooves are so cut in the two, stones that they point in opposite directions and as the one stone revolves on the other a slicing or shearing action is produced the friction due to the slicing and shearing of the nib keeps the stones hot and they become sufficiently warm to melt the fat in the ground nib so that there oozes from the outer edge of the bottom or fixed stone a more or less viscous liquid or paste this finely ground nib is known as mass It is simply liquefied kikayo bean and solidifies on cooling to a chocolate-colored block. This mass may be used for the production of either cocoa or chocolate.

When part of the fat, kakayo butter is taken away, the residue may be made to yield cocoa. When sugar and kakio butter are added, it yields eating chocolate. Thus, the two industries are seen to be interdependent. The kagio butter, which is pressed out of the mass, in the manufacture of cocoa being used up in the production of chocolate. The manufacture of cocoa will first be considered. I. Pressing out the excess of butter. The liquefied cacao bean, or mass, simply mixed with sugar and cooled until it becomes a hard cake,

has been used by the British Navy for a hundred years or more for the preparation of Jack's cup of cocoa. It produces a fine, rich drink, much appreciated by our hearty semen, but it is somewhat too fatty to mix evenly with water and too rich to be suitable for those with delicate digestions. Hence, for the ordinary cocoa of commerce, it is usual to remove a portion of this fat. If mass be put into a cloth and pressed, a golden oil, melted kakayo butter, oozes through the cloth. In practice, this extraction of the butter is done in various types of presses. In one of the most frequently used types, the mass is poured into a circular steel pots, the top and bottom of which are loose perforated plates lined with felt pads. A number of such pots are placed one above another and then rammed

together by a powerful hydraulic ram. They look like the parts of a slowly collapsing telescope. The mass is only gently pressed at first, but as the butter flows away and the material in the pot becomes stiffer, it is subjected to a gradually increasing pressure. The ram, being under pressure supplied by pumps, pushes up with enormous force. The steel pots have to be sufficiently strong to bear great strain as the ram often exerts a pressure of 6,000 pounds per square inch. When the required amount of butter has been pressed out, the pot is found to contain not a paste, but a hard dry cake of compressed cocoa. The liquefied kikayo bean put into the pots contains 54 to 55% of butter, whilst the cocoa press cake taken out, usually contains only 25 to 30%. The expressed butter flows away and is filtered and solidified. all that it is necessary to do to obtain cocoa from the press cake is to powder it.

J. Breaking down the press cake to cocoa powder. The slabs of press cake are so hard and tough that if one were banged on a man's head, it would probably stun him. They are broken down in a crushing mill, the inside of which is as full of terrible teeth as a giant's mouth, until the fragments are small enough to grind on steel rollers. K. Seaving. As fineness is a very important quality of cocoa, the powder so obtained is very carefully seaved. This is affected by shaking the powder into an inclined rotating drum, which is covered with silk gauze.

In the cocoa, which passes through this fine silk sieve, the average length of the individual particles is about one, 1,000th of an inch. Whilst in first-class productions, the size of larger particles in the cocoa does not average more than 2,000th of an inch. Indeed, the cocoa powder is so fine that in spite of all precautions, a certain amount always floats about in the air of seething rooms and covers everything with a brown film. L. Packing The cocoa powder is taken to the packing rooms. Here, the tedious weighing by hand has been replaced by ingenious machines which deliver with remarkable accuracy, a definite weight of cocoa into the paper bag, which lines the tin.

The tins are then labeled and packed in cases, ready for the grocer. End of Chapter 5. Chapter 6 of Coco and Chocolate This is a Libravox recording. All Libravox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit Libravox.org. This reading by Alison Hester of Athens, Georgia. Coco and Chocolate, their history from plantation to consumer by Arthur W. Knapp, Chapter 6,

The Manufacture of Chocolate. What I am about to write under this heading will only be of a general character. Those who require a more detailed exposition are referred to the standard works given at the end of the chapter. In these, full and accurate information will be found. The information published in modern encyclopedias, etc., concerning the manufacture of chocolate, is not always as reliable as one might expect. Thus, it states in Jack's excellent reference book, 1914, that, quote, chocolate is made by the addition of water and sugar, end quote. The use of water in the manufacture of chocolate is contrary to all usual practice, so much so that great interest was

aroused in the trade some years ago by the statement that water was being used by a firm in Germany. Specimen outline recipe. Ingredients required for plain eating chocolate. Kikaya nib or mass 33 parts. Kikaya butter. 13 parts. Sugar. 53 and 3 quarter parts. flavoring 1 quarter parts. Total, 100 parts. Since eating chocolate is produced by mixing sugar and cacao nib with or without flavoring materials and reducing to a fine, homogenous mass, the principles underlying its manufacture are obviously simple, yet when we come to consider the production of a modern high-class chocolate, we find the processes involved are somewhat elaborate. A. preparing the nib or mass.

The nib is obtained in exactly the same way as in the manufacture of cocoa, the beans being cleaned, roasted, and shelled. The roasting, however, is generally somewhat lighter for chocolate than for cocoa. The nibs produced may be used as they are, or they may be first ground to mass by means of millstones as described above. B, mixing in the sugar. Some makers use clear crystalline granulated sugar. Others disintegrate loaf sugar to a beautiful snow-white flour. The nib, coarse, or finely ground, is mixed with the sugar in a kind of edge runner or grinding mixer called a melangour. As seen in the photo, the melangour consists of two heavy millstones, which are supported.

on a granite floor. This floor revolves and causes the stationary millstones to rotate on their axis, so that although they run rapidly, like a man on a joy wheel, they make no headway. The material is prevented from accumulating at the sides by curved scrapers, which gracefully deflect the stream of material to the part of the revolving floor which runs under the millstones. Thus, the sugar and nib are mixed in the sand, are mixed and crushed.

As the mixture usually becomes like dough and consistency, it can be neatly removed from the melangor with a shovel. The operator rests a shovel lightly on the revolving floor and the material mounts into a heap upon it. C. grinding the mixture. The mixture is now passed through a mill, which has been described as looking like a multiple mangle. The object of this is to break down the sugar and cacao to smaller particles.

The rolls may be made either of granite, more strictly speaking, of quartz, deirate, or of polished, chilled cast iron. Chilled cast iron rolls have the advantage that they can be kept cool by having water flowing through them. A skilled operator is required to set the rolls in order that they may give a large and sense. satisfactory output. The cylinders in contact run at different speeds, and, as will be seen in the diagram, the chocolate always clings to the roll, which is revolving with the greater velocity, and is delivered from the rolls either as a curtain of chocolate or as a spray of chocolate powder. It is very striking to see the soft chocolate-colored dough become, after merely passing between the rolls, a dry powder. The explanation is that the sugar, having been more finely crushed, now requires

a greater quantity of cacao butter to lubricate it before the mixture can again become plastic. The chocolate in its various stages of manufacture should be kept warm or it will solidify in much time and heat, and possibly temper, will be absorbed in remelting it. For this and other reasons most chocolate factories have a number of hot rooms in which the chocolate is stored whilst waiting to pass on to the next operation. The dry powder coming from the rolls is either taken to a hot room or at once mixed in a warm melangor where curiously enough the whole becomes once again the consistency of dough. The grinding between the rolls and the mixing in the melangour are repeated any number of times until the chocolate is of desired fineness.

Whilst there are a few people who like the clean, hard feel of sugar crystals between the teeth, the present-day taste is all for very smooth and highly refined chocolate. Hence, the grinding operation is one of the most important in the factory and is checked at the works at Bourneville by measuring with a microscope the size of the particles. The cost of fine grinding is considerable. For whilst the first breaking down of the cacao nibs and sugar crystals is comparatively easy, it is found that as the particles of chocolate get finer, the cost of further reduction increases by leaps and bounds. The chocolate may now proceed direct to the molding rooms, or it may first be conched. D. Conching

We now come to an extraordinary process, which is said to have been originally introduced to satisfy a fastidious taste that demanded a chocolate which readily melted in the mouth and yet had not the cloying effect, which is produced by excess of cacao butter. In this process, the chocolate is put in a vessel shaped something like a shell, hence caught a conch, and a heavy roller is pushed to and fro in the chocolate. Although the conch is considered to have revolutionized the chocolate industry, it will remain to the uninitiated, a curious sight to see a room full of machines engaged in pummeling chocolate day and night. There is no general agreement as to exactly how the conch produces its effects. From the scientific point of view, the changes are complex and elusive and too technical to explain here. But it is well known that if this process is continued for periods varying according to the result desired from a few hours to a week, characteristic changes occur, which make the chocolate a more mellow and finished confection, having more or less the velvet feel of chocolate fondant.

E. Flavoring Art is shown not only in the choice of the cacao beans, but also in the selection. of spices and essences. For, whilst the fundamental flavor of a chocolate is determined by the blend of beans and the method of manufacture, the piquancy and special character

are often obtained by the addition of minute quantities of flavorings. The point in the manufacture at which the flavor is added is as late as possible so as to avoid the possible loss of aroma in handling. The flavors used

include cardamum, cassia, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, lemon, mace, and last but most popular of all, the vanilla pod or vanilla. Some makers use the choice spices themselves. Others prefer their essential oils. Many other nutty, fragrant, and aromatic substances have been used. Of these, we may mention almonds, coffee, musk, ambergris, gum, Benzuin and Balsam of Peru. The English like delicately flavored confections, whilst the Spanish follow the old custom of heavily spicing the chocolate. In ancient recipes we read of the use of white and red peppers and the addition of hot spices was defended and even

recommended on purely philosophical grounds. It was given in the strange jargon of the peripatetics as a dictum that chocolate is by nature cold and dry and therefore ought to be mixed with things which are hot. F. Molding Small quantities of cacao butter will have been added to the chocolate at various stages and hence the finished product is quite plastic. It is now brought from the hot room or the melingur or the conch to the molding rooms. Before molding, the chocolate is passed through a machine known as a compressor which removes air bubbles. This is a necessary process as people would

not care to purchase chocolate full of holes. As in the previous operations, every effort has been made to produce a chocolate of smooth texture and fine flavor, so in the molding rooms skill is exercised in converting the plastic mass into hard bars and cakes, which snap when broken, and which have a pleasant appearance. Well-molded chocolate has a good gloss, a rich color, and a correct shape. The most important factor in obtaining a good appearance is the temperature, and chocolate is frequently passed through a machine, called a tempering machine, merely to give it the desired temperature. A suitable temperature for molding, according to Zipperer varies from 28 degrees Celsius on a hot summer's day to 32 degrees Celsius

on a winter's day. As the melting point of cacao butter is about 32 degrees Celsius, it will be realized that the butter is supercooled and is ready to crystallize on the slightest provocation. Each mold has to contain the same quantity of chocolate. Weighing by hand has been abandoned in favor of a machine which automatically deposits a definite weight, such as a quarter or half a pound, of the chocolate paste on each mold. The chocolate stands up like a lump of dough and has to be persuaded to lie down and feel the mold. This can be most effectively accomplished by banging the mold up and down on a table. In the factory, the method used is to place the molds on rocking tables, which rise gradually and fall with a bump. The diagram will make clear how these

vibrating tables are worked by means of ratchet wheels. Rocking tables are made, which are silent in action, but the molds jerkily dancing about on the table make a very lively clatter, such a noise as might be produced by a regimen of mad calipery crossing a courtyard. During the shaking up, the chocolate-fieldered every crevice of the mold and any bubbles which if left in would spoil the appearance of the chocolate rise to the top the chocolate then passes on to an endless band which conducts the mold through a chamber in which cold air is moving as the chocolate cools it solidifies and contracts so that it comes out of the mold clean and bright in this way are produced the familiar

sticks and cakes of chocolate a similar method is used in producing croquettes and the small tablets known as Neapolidans. Other forms require more elaborate molds. Thus, the chocolate eggs, which fill the confectioner's windows just before Easter, are generally hollow, unless they are very small and are made in two halves by pressing chocolate and egg-shaped molds and then unining the two halves. Chocolate creams, caramels, almonds, and in fact fancy chocolates generally are produced in quite a different manner. For these chocolates de fantassie, a rather liquid chocolate is required known as covering chocolate. Specimen outline recipe

Ingredients required for chocolate covering creams, etc. Cicayo nib or mass, 30 parts. Kikayo butter, 20 parts, sugar, 49 and 3 quarter parts, flavoring, one quarter parts, total 100 parts. It is prepared in exactly the same way as ordinary eating chocolate, save that more butter is added to make it flow readily, so that in the melted condition, it has about the same consistency as cream. The operations so far described are conducted by men, but the covering of creams and the packing of the finished chocolates into boxes are performed by girls. Covering is light work, requiring a delicate touch, and if, as is usual, it is done in bright, airy rooms, it is a pleasant occupation. The girl sits with a small bowl of warm liquid chocolate in front of her, and on one side the centers, creams,

caramels, ginger, nuts, etc., ready for covering with chocolate. The chocolate must be at just the right temperature, which is 88 degrees Fahrenheit or 31 degrees Celsius. She takes one of the centers, say a vanilla cream, on her fork and dips it beneath the chocolate. When she draws it out, the white cream is completely covered in brown chocolate, and without touching it with her finger, she deftly places it on a piece of smooth paper. A little twirl of the fork or drawing a prong across the chocolate will give the characteristic marking on the top of the chocolate cream. The chocolate rapidly sets to a crisp film enveloping the soft cream. There are in use in many chocolate factories some very ingenious covering machines, invented in 1903,

as they clothe creams in a robe of chocolate, are known as enrobers. It is doubtful, however, if the chocolates so produced have even quite so good an appearance as when the covering is done by hand. It would be agreeable at this point to describe the making of creams, which, by the way, contrary to the opinion of most writers, contain no cream or butter, and other products of the confectioner's art, but it would take us beyond the scope of the present book. We will only remind our readers of the great variety of comestibles, and confections which are covered in chocolate, pistachio nut, roasted almonds, prelines, biscuits, walnuts,

nougut, Montaille maire, fruits, fruit creams, jellies, Turkish delight, marshmallows, caramels, pineapple, noisette, and other delicacies. Milk chocolate. We owe the introduction of this excellent food and confection to the researches of M.D. Pidi of Veve in Switzerland, who produced milk chocolate as early as 1876. Many of our older readers will remember their delight when in the 1890s they first tasted Peter's milk chocolate.

Later, the then little firm of Kailer, realizing the importance of having the factory on the very spot where rich milk was produced in abundance, established a works near Gruyar. This grew rapidly and soon became the largest factory in Switzerland. The sound principle of having your factory in the heart of a milk-producing area was adopted by Cadbury's, who built milk-condensing factories at the ancient village of Frampton-on-Savern in Gloucestershire and at Knighton near Newport, Salup. Before the war, these two factories together condensed from two to three million gallons, of milk a year. While it's the amount of milk used in England for making milk chocolate

appears very great when expressed in gallons, it is seen to be very small, being only about one half of one percent when expressed as a fraction of the total milk production. Milk chocolate is not made from milk produced in the winter when milk is scarce, but from milk produced in the spring and summer when there is milk in excess of the usual household requirements and when it is rich and creamy. The importance of not interfering with the normal milk supply to local customers is appreciated by the chocolate makers who take steps to prevent this. It will interest public analysts and others to know that Cadberries have had no difficulty in making it a stipulation in their contracts with the vendors that the milk supply to them shall contain

at least 3.5% of butter fat, a 17% increase on the minimum fixed by the government. Specimen Outline Recipe Ingredients required for milk chocolate. Cicayo, nib, or mass, from 10 to 20%, say, 10 parts. Cicayo butter, 20 parts. Sugar, 44 and 3 quarter parts. Milk solids, from 15 to 25%. percent say 25 parts equals 200 parts of milk flavoring one-quarter parts total 100 parts milk chocolate consists of an intimate mixture of kakayo nib sugar and milk condensed by

evaporation the manner in which the milk is mixed with the kakaya nib is a matter of taste and the art of combining milk with chocolate so as to retain the full flavor of each has engaged the attention of many experts. At present, there is no general method of manufacture. Each maker has his own secret processes, which generally include the use of grinding mills, melangours, conches, molding machines, etc., as with plain chocolate. We cannot do better than refer those who wish to know more of this, or other branch of the chocolate industry, to the following English, French, and German standard works on chocolate manufacture. Coco and Chocolate, their chemistry and manufacture by R. Wimper, Churchill.

Fabrication du chocolate by Fritz Scientific, Ete, Industrial. The Manufacture of Chocolate by Dr. Paul Zipperer, Spahn. End of Chapter 6. Chapter 7 of Coco and Chocolate This is a Libravox recording. All Libravox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit Libravox.org. This reading by Alison Hester of Athens, Georgia.

Cocoa and Chocolate, their history from plantation to consumer by Arthur W. Knapp, Chapter 7. Buy products of the cocoa and the chocolate industry. Cacao butter In that very able compilation, Allen's organic analysis, Mr. Leonard Archbutt states, in volume 2, page 176,

that cacao butter, quote, is obtained in large quantities as a byproduct in the manufacture of chocolate, end quote. This is repeated in the excellent book on oils by C.A. Mitchell, common commodities of commerce series. These statements are, of course, incorrect. We have seen that cacao butter is obtained as a byproduct in the manufacture of cocoa and is consumed in large quantities in the manufacture of chocolate. When, during the war, the use of sugar for chocolate

was restricted and little chocolate was produced, the cacao butter formerly used in this industry was freed for other purposes. Thus, there was plenty of cacao butter available at a time when other fats were scarce. Cicayo butter has a pleasant, bland taste resembling cocoa. The cocoa flavor is very persistent, as many experimenters found to their regret

in their efforts to produce a tasteless cacao butter, which could be used as margarine or for general purposes in cooking. The scarcity of edible fats during the war forced the confectioners to try cacao butter, which in normal times is too expensive for them to use, and as a result, a very large amount was employed in making biscuits and confectionery. Cicaya butter runs hot from the presses as an amber-colored oil, and after nitration sets to a pale, golden yellow, wax-like fat. The butter, which the pharmacist sells, is sometimes white and odorless, having been bleak,

and deodorized. The butter as produced is always pale yellow in color with a semi-crystalline or granular fracture and an agreeable taste and odor resembling cocoa or chocolate. Kekayo butter has such remarkable keeping properties, which would appear to depend on the aromatic substances which it contains, that a myth has arisen that it will keep forever. The fable finds many believers, even in scientific circles, circles. Thus, W.H. Johnson, in the Imperial Institute Handbook on Coco states that, quote, when pure, it has the peculiar property of not becoming rancet, however long it may be kept. In quote, while this overstates the case, we find that under suitable conditions,

cacao butter will remain fresh and good for several years. Cicchio butter has rather a low melting point, 90 degrees Fahrenheit, so that whilst it is a hard, almost brittle, solid at ordinary temperatures, it melts readily when in contact with the human body, blood heat 98 degrees Fahrenheit. This property, together with its remarkable stability, makes it useful for ointments, pomades, suppositories, peseries, and other pharmaceutical preparations. It also explains why actors have found it convenient for the removal of grease paint. The recognition of the value of cacao butter for cosmetic purposes dates from very early days. Thus, in Colmenero de la Desma's curious treaty on the nature and quality of chocolate, printed at the Green Dragon 1685, we read, quote, that they draw from the

cacao a great quantity of butter which they use to make their faces shine, which I have seen practiced in the Indies by the Spanish women born there. This evidently was one way of shining in society. Cicayo butter has been put to many other uses. Thus, it has been employed in the preparation of perfumes, but the great bulk of the cacao butter produced is used up by the chocolate maker. For making chocolate, it is ideal. and the demand for it for this purpose is so great that substitutes have been found and offered for sale. Until recently, these fats, coconut, stearin, and others could be ignored by their reputable chocolate makers as the confection produced by their use was inferior to true chocolate, both in taste and in keeping properties.

In recent times, the oils and fats of tropical nuts and fruits have been thoroughly investigated in the eager, for new fats and new substitutes such as ilipae butter have been introduced the properties of which closely resemble those of cacao butter for the information of chemists we may state that the analytical figures for genuine cacao butter as obtained in the cocoa factory are as follow analytical figures for cacao butter specific gravity at 99 degrees Celsius to water 15.5 degrees Celsius. .858 to .865.

Melting point, 32 degrees Celsius to 34 degrees Celsius. Tater, fatty acids, 49 degrees Celsius to 50 degrees Celsius. Iodine absorbed, 34% to 38%. Refraction, butero, refractometer at 40 degrees Celsius. 45.6 degrees to 46.5 degrees. Seponification value, 192 to 198. Valenta, 94 degrees Celsius to 96 degrees Celsius. Reichert, miscelli value, 1.0.

Polinsky value, 0.5. Kersner value, 0.5. Shrewsbury and Knapp value, 14 to 15. Un saponifiable matter, 0.3% to 0.8%. Mineral matter, 0.02% to 0.05%. Acidity, as oleic acid, 0.6% to 2.0%. Although the trade in cacao butter is considerable, there were, before the war, only two countries that could really be considered as exporters of cacao butter. In other words, there were only two countries, namely Holland and Germany, pressing out more cacao butter in the production of cocoa than they absorbed in making chocolate. Export of cacao butter. Tons of

1,000 kilograms. Holland, 1911, 4,657, 9,000, 9,000, 9,000,000, 9,000,000, 9,000,000, 9,000,000,000, 1912, 5,472, 1913, 7,160 tons. Germany, 1911, 3,611, 1912, 3, 581, 1913, 1,960 tons. Total, 1911, 8,268, 1912, 953, 953,000, 1913, 9,120 tons. During the war, America appeared for the first time in her history as an exporter of cacao butter. Hitherto, she was one of the principal importers, as will be seen in the following table. Imports of cacao butter. Tons of 1,000 kilograms. United States, 1912, 1,842, 1913.

1313, 1634 tons. Switzerland, 1912, 1,821, 1913, 1,634 tons. Belgium, 1912, 1,121, 127, 1937, 1937 tons. Austria-Hungary, 1912, 162, 162, 1913, 1,1197 tons. 1,190 tons. Russia, 1912, 95. 1913, 1,197 tons.

England, 1912, 495, 1913, 934 tons. The next table shows the imports, expressed in English tons, into the United Kingdom in more recent years. Imports of cacao butter. Year, 1912, tons, 477. In 1913, 912 tons, 1914, 1,512 tons, 1915, 599 tons, 1916, 962 tons, 1917, 675 tons. The wholesale price of cacao butter has buried in the last six years, from 1 and 3 per pound to 2 and 11 per pound, and was fixed in 1918 by the food controller at 1 and 6 per pound. Retail price, 2 shillings per pound.

The control was removed in 1919, and immediately the wholesale price rose to 2 and 8 per pound. Cicayo Shell Although I have described cacao butter as a byproduct, The only true byproduct of the combined cocoa and chocolate industry is cacao shell. I explained in the previous chapter how it is separated from the roasted bean. As they come from the husking or winnowing machine, the larger fragments of shell resemble the shell of monkey nuts, ground nuts or peanuts, except that the cacao shells are thinner, more brittle, and of a richer brown color. The shell has a pleasant odor in which a little true cocoa aroma,

can be detected. The small pieces of shell look like bran, and if the shell be powdered, the product is wonderfully like cocoa in appearance, though not in taste or smell. As the raw cacao bean contains on the average about 12.5% of shell, it is evident that the world production must be considerable, about 36,000 tons a year. And since it is not legitimately employed in cocoa, the brains of inventors have been busy trying to find a use for it. In some industries, the byproduct has proved on investigation to be of greater value than the principal products. A good instance of this is glycerin as a byproduct in soap manufacture, but no use for the husk or shell of cacao, which gives it any considerable commercial value, has yet been

discovered. There are signs, however, that it's possible uses are being considered and and appreciated. For years, small quantities of cacao shell, under the name of miserable's, have been used in Ireland and other countries for producing a dilute infusion for drinking. Although this cocoa tea is not unpleasant and has mild stimulating properties, it has never been popular, and even during the war when it was widely advertised and sold in England under fancy names at fancy prices. It never had a large or enthusiastic body of consumers. In normal times, the cocoa manufacturer has no difficulty in disposing of his shell to cattle food makers and others. But during 1915, when the train service was so defective and transport by any other means

almost impossible, the manufacturers of cocoa and chocolate were unable to get the shell away from their factories and had large accumulations of it filling up valuable store space. In these circumstances, they attempted to find a use near at hand. It was tried with moderate success as a fuel, and a considerable quantity was burned in a special type of gas producer intended for wood. Cicayot shell has a high nitrogenous content, and if burned, yields about 67 pounds of potassium carbonate per ton. In the annual report of the experimental farms in Canada, 1898, page 151 in 1899 page 851, accounts are given of the use of cacao shell as manure. The results given are encouraging and experiments were made at Burnville. At first, these were only moderately

successful because the shell is extremely stable and decomposes in the ground very slowly indeed. Then the head gardener tried hastening the decomposition by placing the shell in a heap, soaking with water and turning several times before use. In this way the shell was converted into a decomposing mass before being applied to the ground and gave excellent results both as a manure and a lightener of heavy soils. On the continent the small amount of cacao butter which the shell contains is extract from it by volatile solvents. The shell butter so obtained is very inferior to

ordinary cacao butter and as usually put on the market has an unpleasant taste and an odor which reminds one faintly of an old tobacco pipe. In this unrefined condition it is obviously unsuitable for edible purposes. Shell contains about 1% of theobromine, dimethyl angstyne, This is a very valuable chemical substance. See remarks in chapter on food value of cocoa and chocolate. And the extraction of theobromine from shell is already practiced on a large scale and promises to be a profitable industry.

Ordinary commercial samples of shell contain from 1.2 to 1.4% of theobromine. Those interested should study the very ingenious process of Monsieur, Monsieur, Grusau and Vincolnier. Many other uses of cacao shell have been made and suggested. Thus, it has been used for the production of a good coffee substitute and also during the shortage of sawdust as a packing material. But its most important use at the present time is as cattle food and its most important abuse as an adulterant of cocoa. The value of cacao shell as cattle food has been known for a long time and is indicated in the following analysis by Smeatham. In the Journal of Lancashire Agricultural Society, 1914. Analysis of Cicayo Shell. Water,

9.30. Fat, 3.83. Mineral matter, 8.20. Albuminoids, 18.81. Fiber, 13.85. Digestable carbohydrates, 46.01, total 100%. From these figures, Smetham calculates the food units as 102, so that it is evident that Kekayo shell occupies a good position when compared with other fodders. Food units. Lenseed cake, 133. Oatmeal, 117. Brand, 109. English wheat, 106. Cicayo shells 102, maize, new crop, 99, meadow hay, 68, rice husks, 43, wheat straw, 41, mangles, 12. These analytical results have been supported by practical feeding experiments in America and Germany. See full account in Zipperer's book, the manufacture of chocolate. Professor Fiali and Turin obtained by giving cacao shell to cows an increase in both the quantity and quality of the milk.

More recent experience seems to indicate that it is unwise to put a very high percentage of cacao shell in the cattle food, in small quantities, in compound feeding cakes, etc. As an appetizer, it has been used for years with good results. footnote further particulars will be found in cacao shells as fodder by a w nap tropical life 1916 page 154 and in the separation and uses of cacao shell society of chemical industry's journal nineteen to page 240 end of footnote the price of shell has shown great variation the following figures are for the grade of shell which is almost entirely free from cocoa Cacao shell. Average price per ton. Year.

1912. Price, 65 shillings. 1913, 70 shillings. 1914, 70 shillings. 1915, 70 shillings. 1916, 90 shillings. 1917, 128 shillings. 1918, 284 shillings.

1919. 161 shillings price per food unit July 1915 English oats three shillings one and one half pence January 1919 English oats three shillings eight pence cotton seed cake July 1915 two shillings five pence January 1919, 3 shillings, 11 pence. Lynn seed cake, July 1915, 1 shilling, 7 pence. January 1919, 3 shillings, 5 pence. Brewer's grains dried, July 1915, 1 shilling, 6.1⁄2 pence. January 1919, 3 shillings, 8.1⁄2 pence.

Decardicated cotton cake. July 1915, one shilling, six pence. January 1919, three shillings, three and a half pence. Caccio shell, July 1915, eight and one fourth pence. January 1919, one shilling, four and one half pence. The above table speaks for itself. The figures are from the Journal of the Board of Agriculture. I have added Kikayo Shelf for comparison. End of Chapter 7.

Chapter 8 of Coco and Chocolate. This is a Libravox recording. All Libravox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit Libravox.org. This reading by Alison Hester of Athens, Georgia. Coco and Chocolate, from Plantation to Consumer by Arthur W. Knapp. Chapter 8 The Composition and Food Value of Coco and Chocolate

The early writers on chocolate generally became lyrical when they wrote of its value as a food. Thus, in the natural history of chocolate by R. Brooks, 1730, we read that an ounce of chocolate contains as much nourishment as a pound of beef, that a woman and a child, or even a counselor, lived on chocolate alone for a long period. And further, before chocolate was known in Europe, good old wine was called the milk of old men, but this title is now applied with greater reason to chocolate, since its use has become so common that it has been perceived that chocolate is,

with respect to them, what milk is to infants. A more temperate zone is shown in the following, from a curious treatise of the nature and quality of chocolate by Antonio Colmenero de Les Desma, a Spaniard, physician and chirurgeon of the city of Ekiha in Andalusia, printed at the Green Dragon, 1685. Quote, so great is the number of those persons who at present do drink of chocolate that not only in the West Indies, whence this drink has its original beginning, but also also in Spain, Italy, Flanders, etc. It is very much used, and especially in the court of the King of Spain, where the great ladies drink it in a morning before they rise out of their beds, and lately much used in England as diet and physic with the gentry. Yet, there are several persons that stand in doubt,

both of the hurt and of the benefit, which proceeds from the use thereof. Some saying that it obstructs and causes opalations. Others, and those the most part, that it fattenes. Several assures us that it fortifies the stomach. Some again, that it heats and inflames the body, but very many steadfastly affirm that though they should drink it at all hours, that even in the dog days they find themselves very well after it. End quote. So much for the old valuations. Let us now attempt by modern methods to estimate the food value of cacao and its preparations. Food value of cacao beans. In estimating the worth of a food, it is usual to compare the fuel values.

This peculiar method is adopted because the most important requirement in nutrition is that of giving energy for the work of the body, and a food may be thought of as being burnt up, oxidized in the human machine in the production of heat and energy. The various food constituents serve in varying degrees as fuel to produce energy, and hence to judge of the food value, it is necessary to know the chemical composition. Below we give the average composition of cacao beans and the fuel value calculated from these figures. Average composition and fuel value of freshly roasted cacao beans nibs. Cicayo butter. Composition 54.0 equals

energy giving power 2,282 calories per pound. Protein total nitrogen 2.3%. Composition 11.9 equals energy giving power 221 calories per pound. Cacao starch. Composition 6.7, energy giving power, 472 calories per pound, other digestible carbohydrates, etc. Composition 18.7 equals energy giving power, 472 calories per pound. Stimulants, theobroman, composition 1.0, caffeine, composition 0.4. Mineral matter, composition, 3.2, crude fiber, composition 2.6, moisture composition 1.5, total composition 100, total energy giving power, 2,975 calories per pound. It will be seen from the above analysis that the cacao bean is rich in fats,

carbohydrates and protein, and that it contains small quantities of the two stimulants, the opromine, and caffeine. In the whole range of animal and vegetable food stuffs, there are only one or two which exceed it in energy-giving power. If expressed in quite another way, namely as food units, the value of the cacao bean stands equally high, as is shown by the following figures taking from Smitham's result, published, in the Journal of the Royal Agricultural Society, 1914. Food units. Turnips, eight.

Carrots, 12. Potatoes 26. Rice, 102. Cornflower, 104. Wheat, 106. Peas, 113. Oatmeal, 117. Coconut, 159.

Cicayo bean, 183. These figures, indicate the high food value of the raw material we will now proceed to consider the various products which are obtained from it food value of cocoa average composition and fuel value of untreated cocoa kakayo butter composition 28.0 equals energy-giving power 1,183 calories per pound protein composition 18. 3 equals energy giving power 340 calories per pound

Kikaiostarch composition 10.2 Energy giving power 718 calories per pound Other digestible carbohydrates, etc. Composition 28.4 equals energy giving power 718 calories per pound. Stimulants. Theobroman composition 1.5 5. Caffeine composition 0.6. Mineral matter, composition 5.0. Crude fiber, composition 4.0. Moisture composition, 4.0. Total, composition, 100.0. Total energy giving power, 2,241 calories per pound.

soluble cocoa i.e. cocoa which has been treated with alkaline salts is almost identical in composition, say that the mineral matter is about 7.5%. As cocoa consists of the cacao bean, with some of the butter extracted, a process which increases the percentage of the nitrogenous and carbohydrate constituents, it will be evident that the food value of cocoa powder is high and that it is a concentrated food stuff. In this respect, it differs from tea and coffee, which have practically no food value. Each of them, however, have special qualities of their own. Some of the claims made for these beverages are a little remarkable. The Embassy of the United Provinces and their address to the Emperor of China, Leiden, 1655, in mentioning the good properties of tea, wrote,

more especially it disintoxicates those that are fuddled, giving them new forces and enabling them to go to it again. The embassy do not state whether they speak from personal experience, but their admiration for tea is undoubted. Tea, coffee, and cocoa are amongst our blessings. Each has its devotees, each has its peculiar delight. Tea makes for cheerfulness. Coffee makes for warm. wit and wakefulness, and cocoa relieves the fatigued and giving a comfortable feeling of satisfaction and stability. Of these three drinks, cocoa alone can be considered as a food, and just as there are people whose digestion is deranged by tea and some who sleep not a wink after drinking coffee, so there are some who find cocoa too feeding, especially in the

summertime. These sufferers from balliessness will think it curious that cocoa is habitually drunk in many hot climates. Thus, in Spanish-speaking countries, it is the custom for the priest, after saying mass, to take a cup of chocolate. The pure cocoa powder is, as we saw above, a very rich food stuff, but it must always be remembered that in a pint of cocoa, only a small quantity about half an ounce is usually taken in this connection the following comparison between tea coffee and cocoa is not without interest it is taken from the Farmer's Bulletin 249 an official publication of the United States Department of Agriculture comparison of energy-giving power of a pint of tea coffee and

cocoa tea 0.5 ounce to one pint water 99.5% water, 0.2% protein, 0% fat, 0.6% carbohydrates, fuel value per pound, 15 calories. Coffee, 1 ounce to 1 pint water. 98.9% water, 0.2% protein, 0% fat, 0.7 carbohydrates, fuel value per pound, 16 calories. Coco, 0.5 ounces to 1 pint water, 97.1% water, 0.6% protein, 0.9% fat, 1.1% carbohydrates, fuel value per pound, 65 calories. These figures place cocoa as a food, head and shoulders above tea and coffee. The figures are for the beverages made without the addition of milk and sugar, both both of which are almost invariably present. A pint of cocoa made with one-third milk, half an ounce of cocoa, and one ounce of sugar

would have a fuel value of 320 calories and is therefore equivalent in energy-giving power to a quarter of a pound of beef or four eggs. Coco is stimulating, but its action is not so marked as that of tea or coffee, and hence it is more suitable for young children. Dr. Hutchison, an authority on dietetics, writes, Tea and coffee are also harmful to the susceptible nervous system of the child, but cocoa, made with plenty of milk, may be allowed, though it should be regarded, like milk, as a food rather than a beverage properly so-called.

How to make a cup of cocoa. Tea, coffee, and cocoa are all so easy to make that it is remarkable anyone should fail to prepare them perfectly. Whilst in France, everyone can prepare coffee to perfection, and many fail in making a cup of tea. In England, all are adepts in the art of tea-making, and many do not distinguish themselves in the preparation of coffee. Coco in either country is not always the delightful beverage it should be. The directions below, if carefully followed, will be found to give the character of cocoa its full expression. The principal conditions to observe are to avoid iron sauce pans, to use boiling water or milk,

to froth the cocoa before serving, and to serve steaming hot and thick cups. The amount of cocoa required for two large breakfast cups, that is one pint, is as much as will go when piled up in a dessert spoon. Take then a heaped dessert spoonful of pure cocoa and mixed dry with one and a half times its bulk of fine sugar. Set this on one side whilst the boiling liquid is prepared. Mix one breakfast cup of water with one breakfast cup of milk and raise to the boil in an enameled saucepan. While this is proceeding, warm the jug, which is to hold the cocoa and transfer the dry sugar cocoa mixture to it. Now pour in the boiling milk and water. Transfer back to saucepan and boil for

one minute. Whisk vigorously for a quarter of a minute. Serve without delay. Digestability of cocoa. We have noted above the high percentage of nutrients which cocoa contains and the research conducted by Jay Forster shows that these nutrients are easily assimilated. Forster found that the fatty and mineral constituents of cocoa are both completely digested and the nitrogenous constituents are digested in the same proportion as in finest bread and more completely than in bread of average quality. One very striking fact was revealed by his researches, namely that the consumption of cocoa increases the digestive power for other foods, which are taken at the same time, and that this increase is particularly evident with milk. Dr. R. O. Newman, who fed himself with cocoa preparations

for over 12 weeks, while it's not agreeing with this conclusion, states that, the consumption of cocoa, from the point of view of health, leaves nothing to be desired. The taking of large or small quantities of cocoa, either rich or poor in fat, with or without other food, gave rise to no digestive troubles during the 86 days which formed the duration of the experiments. He considers that cocoa's contained. a high percentage of cacao butter are preferable to those which contain low percentages, and that a 30% butter content meets all requirements. It is worthy of note that 28 to 30% is the quantity of butter found in ordinary high-class cocoa's.

As experts are liable to disagree, and it is almost possible to prove anything by a judicious selection from their writings, it may be well to give an extract from some modern textbook as more nearly expressing the standard opinion of the times. In second stage hygiene by Mr. Eichen and Dr. Leister, a textbook written for the Board of Education syllabus, we read, page 96, In the better cocoa's, the greater part of the fat is removed by heat and pressure. In this form, cocoa may be looked upon as almost an ideal. food as it contains proteids, fats, and carbohydrates in roughly the right proportions. Prepared with milk and sugar, it forms a highly nutritious and valuable stimulating beverage. Stimulating property of cocoa. The mild stimulating property which cocoa possesses is due to the

presence of the two substances, theobromine and caffeine. The presence of theobrome is peculiar to cocoa, but caffeine is a stimulating principle, which also occurs in tea and coffee. Whilst in the quantities in which they are present in cocoa, about 1.5% of theobromine and 0.6% of caffeine, they act only as agreeable stimulants. In the pure condition, as white crystalline powders, they are powerful, curative agents. Caffeine is well known as a specific for nervous headaches, and as a heart stimulant and diuretic. The obromine is similar in action, but has the advantage for certain cases

that it has much less effect on the central nervous system. And for this reason, it is a very valuable medicine for sufferers from heart-dropsy and as a tonic proscenile heart. That its medicinal properties are appreciated is shown by its price. During 1918, the retail price was about eight shillings an ounce, from which we can calculate that every pound of cocoa

contained nearly two shillings worth of theobromine. Soluble cocoa While Forster states that treated cocoa is the most digestible, experts are not in agreement as to which is the more valuable food stuff, the pure untouched cocoa, or that which is treated during its manufacture with alkaline salts. The cocoa so treated is generally described as soluble, although its only claim to this name is that the mineral salts in the cocoa are rendered more soluble by the treatment. It is also sometimes incorrectly described as containing alkali, but actually no alkali is present in the cocoa, either in a free state or as carbonate. The potassium exists, quote, in the form of phosphates or combinations of organic,

acids, that is to say, in the ideal form in which these bodies occur in foods of animal and vegetable origin, end quote. Fritched, Fabrication Do Chocolate, page 216. Food value of chocolate. I ate a little chocolate from my supply, well knowing the miraculous sustaining powers of the simple little block. From Mr. Isaac's by F. Marion Crawford. Whilst the food value of cocoa powder is very high, the drink prepared from it can only be regarded as an accessory food, because it is usual to take the powder in small quantities, just as with beef tea. It is usual to take only a small portion of an ox and a teacup. But chocolate is often eaten in considerable quantities at a time,

and must therefore be regarded as an important food stuff, and not considered, as it frequently is considered, simply a luxury. The eating of cacao, mixed with sugar, dates from very early days, but it is only in recent times that it has become the principal sweetmeat. What would a sweet shop be today without chocolate, that summit of the confectioner's art, when the rich brown chocolate is the predominant note in every confectioner's window? What would the lovers in England do without chocolates, which enable them to indulge their delight in giving what is sure to be well received? As a luxury, it is universally appreciated,

and, because of this appreciation, its value as a food is sometimes overlooked. During the war, chocolate was valued as a compact food stuff, which is easily preserved. Dr. Gastinue Earl, lecturing for the Institute of Hygiene in 1915 on Food Factor in War said, Chocolate is a most valuable concentrated food, especially when other foods are not available. It is the chief constituent of the emergency ration. Its importance as a concentrated foodstuff was appreciated in the United States, for every comfort kit made up for the American soldiers fighting in the war, contained a cake of sweet chocolate. There are a number of records of people whose lives have been

preserved by means of chocolate. One of the most recent was the case of Commander Stewart, who was torpedoed in HMS, Cornwallis, in the Mediterranean in 1917. He happened to have in his cabin one of the boxes of chocolate presented to the Army and Navy in 1915 by the colonies of Trinidad, Grenada, and St. Lucia, who gave the cacao and paid English manufacturers to make it into chocolate. He had been treasuring the box as a souvenir, but being the only article of food available, he filled his pockets with the chocolate, which sustained him through many trying hours. We have already seen the high food value of the caccio business. bean. What of the sugar which chocolate contains? Sugar is consumed in large quantities in England.

The consumption per head amounting to 80 to 90 pounds per year. It is well known as a giver of heat and energy, and Sir Ernest Shackleton reports that it proved a great life preserver and sustainer in Arctic regions. Our practical acquaintance with sugar commences at birth, milk containing about 5% of milk and sugar. And when one considers the amazing activity of young children, one understands their continuous demand for sugar. Dr. Hutchinson, in his well-known food and the principles of dietetics, says, the craving for sweets which children show is, no doubt, the natural expression of a physiological need, but they should be taken with and not between meals. Chocolate is one of the most wholesome and nutritious forms of such sweets.

Both the constituents of chocolate being nourishing, it follows that chocolate itself has a high food value. This is proved by the figures given below. As with Coco, we have first to know the composition before we can calculate the food value. The relative proportions of nib, butter, and sugar vary considerably in ordinary chocolate, so that it is difficult to give an average composition.

There are sticks of eating chocolate which contain as little as 24% of cacao butter, whilst chocolate used for covering contains about 36% of butter. As modern high class eating chocolate contains about 31% of butter, we will take this for purposes of calculation. Average composition and fuel value of English eating chocolate. Kikaya butter. Composition, 31.4. equals energy giving power 1,327 calories per pound. Protein total nitrogen 78%. Composition 4.1 equals energy giving power 76 calories per pound. Cicayo starch, composition 2.3, other digestible carbohydrates, etc., composition 6.4, together equal energy giving power 162 calories per pound. Stimulants. Theobromine, composition 0.3, caffeine, composition 0.1.

Mineral matter, composition, 1.2. Crude fiber, composition, 0.9. Moister composition 1.0. Sugar, 52.3 equals energy giving power, 9753 calories per pound. Total, composition, 100.0. Total energy-giving power, 2,538 calories per pound. In Snyder's Human Foods, 1916, the official analysis of 163 common foods are given. They include practically everything that human beings eat, and only three are greater than chocolate in energy-giving power. The result, 2,538 calories per pound, which we obtain, by calculation is lower than the figure, 2,768 calories per pound,

for chocolate given by Sherman in his book on food and nutrition, 1918. Probably his figure is for unsweetened chocolate. The table below shows the energy giving value of cocoa and chocolate compared with well-known foodstuffs. The figures, save for eating chocolate, are taken from Sherman's book and are calculated from the analysis given

in Bulletin 28 of the United States Department of Agriculture. Food value of foodstuffs. Cabbage, 121 calories per pound. Codfish, 209 calories per pound. Apples, 214 calories per pound. Potatoes, 302 calories per pound. Milk, 314 calories per pound. Eggs, 594 calories per pound. Beef steak, 960 calories per pound. Bread, average white, 1,180 calories per pound. Oatmeal, 111 calories per pound. Sugar, 1,815 calories per pound. Coco, 2,258 calories per pound.

Eating chocolate, 2,538 calories per pound. Food value of milk chocolate. The value of milk as a food is so generally recognized as to need no commendation here. When milk is evaporated to a dry solid, about 87.5% of water is driven off, so that the milk left has about eight times the food value of the original milk. Milk chocolate of good quality contains from 15 to 25% of milk solids. Milk chocolate varies greatly in composition, but, for the purpose of calculating the food value, we may assume that about a quarter of a high-class

milk chocolate consists of solid milk, and this is combined with about 40% of cane sugar and 35% of cacao butter and cacao mass. Analysis and fuel value of milk chocolate. Milk fat and cacao butter 35.0, 1,480 calories per pound. Milk and cocoa proteins, 8.0 equals 149 calories per pound. Caccio starch and digestible carbohydrates, 3.0 equals 56 calories per pound. Stimulants, theobroman and caffeine, 0.2. Mineral matter, 2.0. Crude fiber, 0.3. Moist. 1.5, milk sugar and cane sugar, 50.0 equals 930 calories per pound. Total, 100.0 equals 2,615 calories per pound. It will be noted that the food value of milk chocolate is even greater than that of plain chocolate. It is highly probable that milk chocolate is the most nutritious of all sweet meats. It is not generally

recognized that when we purchase one pound of high-class milk chocolate, we obtain three-quarters of a pound of chocolate and two pounds of milk. And of chapter eight. Chapter nine of Coco and Chocolate. This is a Libravox recording. All Libravox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit Libravox.org. This reading by Alison Hester of Athens, Georgia. Coco and Chocolate, Their History from Plantation to Consumer by Arthur W. Knapp. Chapter 9. Adulteration and the Need for Definitions. Coco. Coco.

Coco might conveniently be defined as consisting exclusively of shelled, roasted, finely ground cacao beans, partially defatted, with or without a minute quantity of flavoring material. The gross adulteration of cocoa, is now a thing of the past, and most of the cocoa sold conforms with this definition. Statements, however, get copied from book to book, and hence we continue to read that cocoa usually contains arrowroot or other starch. In the old days, this was frequently so, but now, owing to many legal actions by public health authorities, this abuse has been stamped out. Nowadays, if a public analyst finds flour or arrowroot in a sample bought as cocoa, he describes it as adulterated and the cellar is prosecuted and fined. Hence, save for the presence of cacao shell, the cocoa of the present day is a pure article consisting simply of roasted, finely ground cacao beans, partially defatted. The principal factors affecting the quality of the finished cocoa are the difference in the

kind of cacao being used, the amount of cacao butter extracted, the care in preparation, and the amount of cacao shell left in. The presence of more than a small percentage of shell in cocoa is a disadvantage, both on the ground of taste and of food value. This has been recognized from the earliest times. See quotations on page 128. In the cocoa powder order of 1918, the amount of shell which a cocoa powder might contain was defined grade A, not to contain more than 2% of shell, and grade B, not more than 5% of shell. The manufacturers of high-class cocoa welcomed these standards, but unfortunately, the known analytical methods are not delicate enough to estimate accurately such small quantities so that any external check is difficult,

and the purchaser has to trust the honesty of the manufacturer. Hence, it is wise to purchase cocoa only for makers of good repute. Chocolate. We have so far no legal definition of chocolate in England, as Mr. N. P. Booth pointed out at the 7th International Congress of Applied Chemistry, At the present time, a mixture of cocoa with sugar and starch cannot be sold as pure cocoa, but only as chocolate powder, and with a definite declaration that the article is a mixture of cocoa and other ingredients. Prosecutions are constantly occurring where mixtures of foreign starch and sugar with cocoa have been sold as cocoa, and it seems therefore a proper step to take to require that a similar declaration shall be made in the case of chocolate, which contains

other constituents, than the products of cocoa nib and sugar. We cannot do better than to quote in full the definitions suggested in Mr. Booth's paper. The author refers to the absence of any legal standard for chocolate in England, although in some of the European countries, standards are in force and points out, as a result of this, that articles of which the sale would be prohibited in some other countries are permitted to come without restriction onto the English market. He suggests that the following definitions for chocolate goods are reasonable and could be conformed to by makers of the genuine article. These standards are not more stringent than those already enforced in some of the colonies and European countries.

1. Unswweetened chocolate or cacao mass must be prepared exclusively from roasted, shelled, finely ground cacao beans with or without the addition of a small quantity of flavoring matter and should not contain less than 45% of cacao butter. 2. Sweetened chocolate or chocolate. A preparation consisting exclusively of the products of rocule. roasted, shelled, finely ground kakaya beans, and not more than 65% of sugar, with or without a small quantity of harmless flavoring matter. 3. Granulated or ground chocolate for drinking purposes. The same definition as for sweetened chocolate should apply here, except that the proportion of sugar may be raised to not more than 75%.

4. Chocolate covered goods. various forms of confectionery covered with chocolate, the composition of the latter, agreeing with the definition of sweetened chocolate. 5. Milk chocolate. A preparation composed exclusively of roasted, shelled cacao beans, sugar, and not less than 15% of the dry solids of full cream milk, with or without a small quantity of harmless flavoring matter. Mr. Booth further states that starch, other than that naturally present in the cacao bean, and cacao shell and powder form, should be absolutely excluded from any article, which is to be sold under the name of chocolate. End of chapter 9. Chapter 10 of cocoa and chocolate.

This is a Libravox recording. All Libravox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit Libravox. revox.org. This reading by Alison Hester of Athens, Georgia, Cocoa and Chocolate, Their History from Plantation to Consumer by Arthur W. Knapp, Chapter 10, The Consumption of Kekayo. The war has caused such a disturbance that the statistics for the years of the war are difficult to obtain. For many years, the German publication, The Gordian, was the most reliable source of Kikayo statistics, and so far, we have none.

in England sufficiently comprehensive to replace it, although useful figures can be obtained from the Board of Trade returns of imports into Great Britain from Mr. Theo. Fasmer's reports, which appear from time to time in the Confectioners Union and elsewhere, from Mr. Hemel Smith's collated material in tropical life, and from the reports of important brokers like Monsieur Woodhouse. In 1919, the Bulletin of the Bulletin of the Imperial Institute gave a very complete resume of cacao production as far as the British Empire is concerned. Great Britain. Since 1830, the consumption of cacao in the British Isles has shown a great and continuous increase, and there is every reason to believe that the consumption will easily keep pace with the

rapidly growing production. One effect of the war has been to increase the consumption of cocoa and chocolate. Many thousands of men who took no interest in sweets learned from the use of their emergency ration that chocolate was a very convenient and concentrated food stuff. Cicayo beans cleared for home consumption. In 1830, 450 English tons, 1840, 900 English tons. In 1850, 1,400 English tons. In 1860, 1,450 English tons, 1870, 3,100 English tons, 1880, 4,700 English tons, 1890, 9,000 English tons, 1900, 16,900 English tons, and in 1910, 24,550 English tons. Cicayo beans imported into United Kingdom. In 1912, 33,600 total imported tons, 27,450 tons retained in the country, 24,600 home consumption tons.

1913, 35,000 total imported tons, 28,200, 200, 200 home consumption tons, 1913, 35,000 total imported tons, 28,200. tons retained in the country, 23,200 home consumption tons. 1914, 41,750 total imported tons, 29,600 tons retained in the country, 24,900 home consumption tons, 1915, 81,800 total imported tons, 54,400 tons retained in the country, 40,300 home consumption tons. 1916, 88,800 total imported tons, 64,750 tons retained in the country, 29,300 home consumption tons. 1917, 57, 900 total imported tons, 53, 100, 100 total imported tons, 53, 100.

tons retained in the country, and 41,300 home consumption tons. The above figures are compiled from the Bulletin of the Imperial Institute. The total imports for 1819 were 42,390 tons. This sudden and marked drop in the amount imported was due to shortage of shipping. There were, however, large quantities of cacao in stock, and the amount consumed showed a marked advance on previous years being 61,252 tons. The Board of Trade returns for 1919 are as follow. Kekayo beans imported into the United Kingdom. From British West Africa 72,886 tons, from British West Indies 13,219 tons, from Ecuador 9,15 153 tons. From Brazil, 3,665 tons. From Ceylon, 903 tons. From other countries, 13,820 tons. Total, 113,646

tons. Home consumption, 64,613 tons. It will be noted that the import of British Cacayo is over 75% of the total. Before the war, about half the cacao imported into the United Kingdom was grown in British possessions. During the war, more and more British cacao was imported, and now that a preferential duty of seven shillings per hundred weight has been given to British colonial growth, we shall probably see a still higher percentage of British cacao consumed in the United Kingdom. Value of cacao beans imported into the United Kingdom. the nearest 1,000 pounds. In 1913, the total value of cacao beans imported, 2,199,000 from British possessions, value 1,158,000 pounds percent from British possessions, 52.7.

1914. The total value of cacao beans imported, 2,439. thousand pounds from British possessions value 1,204,000 pounds 49.4% 1915 total value of kakaya beans imported 5,747,000 from British possessions value 3,546,000 pounds 61.7%. 1916 total value of kakairobi beans imported 6,498,000 pounds. From British possessions value 4,417,000 pounds, 68%. 1917, total value of kakayo beans imported, 3,498,000 pounds. From British possessions, value 3,010, 86%.

2018, total value of cacao beans imported 3,040,000 pounds. From British possessions, value 2,549,000 pounds, 83.8%. 1919, total value of cacao beans imported 9,207,000 pounds. From British possessions, value 6,639,000 pounds, 72.1%. That the consumption of cacailleuio beans, that the consumption of cacaille, is expected to grow greater yet in the immediate future is reflected in the prices of raw kakayo which as soon as they were no longer fixed by the government rose rapidly thus akra kakayo rose from 65 shillings per hundred weight to over 90 shillings per hundred weight in a few weeks

and now january 1920 stands at 104 shillings world consumption the world's consumption of Kakayo is steadily rising. Before the war, the United States, Germany, Holland, Great Britain, France, and Switzerland were the principal consumers. Whilst we have increased our consumption, so that Great Britain now occupies second place, the United States has outstripped all the other countries, having doubled its consumption in a few years, and is now taking almost as much as all the rest of the world put together. It is thought that since America has gone dry, this remarkably large consumption is likely to be maintained. World's consumption of cacao beans. To the nearest thousand tons, one ton equals 1,000 kilograms.

USA, pre-war, 1913, 68,000 tons. War period, average of 1914, 15, 16, and 17, 103,000 tons. 1918, 145,000 tons. Post-war, 1919, 114,000 tons. Germany, pre-war, 1913, 51,000 tons. War period, average of 1914, 15, and 16 and 17, 28,000 tons. Post-war, 1919, 13,000 tons. Holland, pre-war, 1913, 30,000 tons. War period, average of 1914, 15, 16, and 17, 25,000 tons, 1918, 2,000 tons, post-war, 39,000 tons, Great Britain, pre-war, 1913, 28,000 tons.

War period, average of 1914, 15, 16, and 17, 41,000 tons, 1918, 62, tons, post-war, 191919, 1919, 15, 16, and 17, 14, 14,000. 16,000 tons. France, pre-war, 1913, 28,000 tons. War period, average of 1914, 15, 16 and 17, 35,000 tons. 1918, 39,000 tons. Post-war, 1919, 46,000 tons. Switzerland, pre-war, 1913, 10,000 tons. War period, average of 1914, 15, 16, and 17, 14,000.

14,000 tons 1918 18,000 tons post-war 191921,000 tons Austria pre-war 1913 7,000 tons War period average of 1914 15 16 and 17 2,000 tons post-war 1919 2,000 tons Belgium pre-war 1913 6,000 tons War period average of 19191919 1914, 15, 16, and 17, 1,000 tons.

1918, 1,000 tons. Post-war, 1919, 8,000 tons. Spain, pre-war, 1913, 6,000 tons. War period, average of 19, 15, 16, and 17, 7,000 tons. 1918, 6,000 tons. Post-war, 1919, 8,000 tons. Russia, pre-war, 1913, 5,000 tons. War period. Average of 1914, 15, 16, and 17, 4,000 tons.

Canada, pre-war, 1913, 3,000 tons. War period. Average of 1914, 15, 16, and 17, 4,000 tons. 1918, 9,000 tons. Italy, pre-war, 1913, 2,000 tons. War period, average of 1914 through 17, 5,000 tons. 5,000 tons. 1918, 6,000 tons. Post-war 191919, 6,000 tons. Denmark, pre-war, 1913, 2,000 tons. War period, average of 1914 through 1917, 2,000 tons. 1918, 2,000 tons. Sweden, pre-war, 1913, 1,000 tons. War period, average of 1914 through 1917, 2,000 tons.

1918, 2,000 tons. Norway, pre-war, 1913, 1,000 tons. War period, average of 1914 through 17, 2,000 tons. 1918, 2,000 tons. Other countries estimated, pre-war, 1913, 5,000 tons. War period, average of 1914 through 1917, 8,000 tons. 1918, 11,000 tons, post-war 1919, 26,000 tons. Total, pre-war, 1913, 252,000 tons.

War period, average of 1914 through 1917, 283,000 tons. 1918, 305,000 tons. Post-war, 1919, 380,000 tons. The above figures are composed. piled chiefly from Mr. Theo Vasmers reports. The Gordian estimates that the world's consumption in 1918 was 314,882 tons. In several of our larger colonies, and in at least one European country, there is obviously ample room for increase in the consumption.

When one considers the great population of Russia, four to five thousand tons per annum is a very small amount to consume. It is pleasant to think of cocoa being drunk in the icebound north of Russia. It brings to mind so picturesque a contrast. Kikayo, grown amongst the richly colored flora of the tropics, consumed in a land that is white with cold. When Russia has reached a more stable condition, we shall doubtless see a rapid expansion in the Kikayo consumption.

End of chapter 10. End of cocoa and chocolate. Their history from plantation to consumer.