Classic Audiobook Collection - The Arabian Art of Taming and Training Wild and Vicious Horses by Kincaid ~ Full Audiobook [self help]

Episode Date: October 27, 2023

The Arabian Art of Taming and Training Wild and Vicious Horses by Kincaid audiobook. Genre: self help A practical, old-school manual of horsemanship, The Arabian Art of Taming and Training Wild and Vicious Horses sets out to answer a question that has tested riders and stablehands for centuries: how do you take an animal built on speed and fear, sometimes made dangerous by mishandling, and bring it safely into partnership with a human? Writing in the direct, instructive style of a working horseman, Kincaid presents a method associated with Arabian practice and applies it to the hardest cases - unbroken horses, confirmed kickers and biters, and animals that bolt, rear, or refuse the harness. The book walks the listener through preparation, safe handling, and the first critical encounters, emphasizing calm control, timing, and the careful use of restraint so that force does not become a substitute for understanding. Along the way, it offers guidance on reading a horse's signals, correcting fear-based resistance, and building obedience without destroying spirit. Part training guide and part window into a historical approach to animal behavior, it is aimed at anyone who wants practical principles for turning chaos in the stall or on the lead rope into steadier, safer work. For ad-free listening try our premium subscription Chapters (Approximate) (00:00:00) Chapter 00 (00:12:08) Chapter 01 (00:19:34) Chapter 02 (00:45:41) Chapter 03 (01:08:11) Chapter 04 (01:28:02) Chapter 05 Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

The Arabian Art of Training and Taming Wild and Vicious Horses by P.R. Kincaid and John Stutzman. Introduction The first domestication of the horse, one of the greatest achievements of man in the animal kingdom, was not the work of a day, but, like all other great accomplishments, was brought about by a gradual process of discoveries and experiments.

He first subdued the more subordinate animals on account of their being easily caught and tamed, and used for many years the mere drudges, the ox, the ass, and the camel, instead of the fleet and elegant horse. This noble animal was the last brought into subjugation, owing perhaps to man's limited and inaccurate knowledge of his nature and his consequent inability to control him. This fact alone is sufficient evidence of his superiority over all other animals.

man in all his inventions and discoveries has almost invariably commenced with some simple principle and gradually developed it from one degree of perfection to another the first hint that we have of the use of electricity was franklin's drawing it from the clouds now it is the instrument of conveying thought from mind to mind with the rapidity that surpasses time the great propelling power that drives the wheel of the engine over our land and plows the o'clock ocean with our steamers was first discovered escaping from a tea kettle. And so the powers of the horse, second only to the powers of steam, became known to man only as experiments and investigation revealed them. The horse, according to the best accounts we can gather, has been the constant servant of man for nearly four thousand years, ever rewarding him with his labor and adding to his comfort in proportion to his skill and manner of using him, but being to those who governed him by brute force, and know nothing of the beauty and delight to be gained from the

cultivation of his finer nature, a fretful, vicious, and often dangerous servant, whilst to the Arabs, whose horse is the pride of his life, and who governs him by the law of kindness, we find him to be quite a different animal. The manner in which he is treated from a fold gives him an affection and attachment for his master not known in any other country. The Arab and his children, the mare and her foal, inhabit the tent together. And although the foal and the mare's neck are often pillows for the children to roll upon, no accident ever occurs,

the mare being as careful of the children as of the colt. Such is the mutual attachment between the horse and his master, that he will leave his companions at his master's skull, ever glad to obey his voice. And when the Arab falls from his horse and is unable to rise again, he will stand by him and nay for assistance. And if he lays down to sleep,

as fatigue sometimes compels him to do in the midst of the desert, his faithful steed will watch over him, and nay to arouse him if a man or beast approaches. The Arabs frequently teach their horses' secret signs or signals, which they make use of on urgent occasions, to call forth their utmost exertions. These are more efficient than the barbarous mode of urging them on with the spur and whip,

a forcible illustration of which will be found in the following anecdote. A Bedouin named Jabal, possessed a mayor of great celebrity, Assad Pacha. Then governor of Damascus wished to buy the animal and repeatedly made the owner the most liberal offers, which Jabal steadily refused.

The Pasha. then had recourse to threats, but with no better success. At length, one Gaffar, a baduan, of another tribe, presented himself to the pasha, and asked what he would give the man who should make him master of Chabal's mare. I will fill the horse's nosebag with gold, replied Hassad. The result of this interview, having gone abroad, Chabal became more watchful than ever,

and always secured his mare at night with an iron chain, one end of which was fastened to her hind fetlock, whilst the other, after passing through the tent cloth, was attached to a picket driven in the ground under the felt that served himself and wife for a bed. But one midnight, Gaffar crept silently into the tent and succeeded in loosening the chain. Just before starting off with his prize,

he caught up Chabal's lance, and poking him with the buddy and cried out, I am Gaffar, I have stolen your noble mare. and will give you notice in time this warning was in accordance with the customs of the desert for to rob a hostile tribe is considered an honorable exploit and the man who accomplishes it is desirous of all the glory that may flow from the deed for jabal when he heard the words rushed out of the tent and gave the alarm then mounting his brother's mare accompanied by some of his tribe he pursued the robber for four hours the brother's mare was of the same stock as jabal's but he was of the same stock as jabal's but he was of the same stock as jabal's but not equal to her. Nevertheless, he outstripped those of all the other pursuers and was even on the point of overtaken the robber.

When Javal shouted to him, Pinch her right ear and give her a touch of the heel. Ghaffar did so, and away went the mare like lightning, speedily rendering further pursued hopeless. The pinch in the ear and the touch with the heel were the secret signs by which Jabal had been used to urge his mare to her utmost speed. Jabal's companions were amazed and indignant at his strange conduct.

O thou father of a jackass, they cried, thou hast helped the thief to rob thee of thy jewel. But he silenced her upbraiding by saying, I would rather lose her than sully her reputation. Would you have me suffer it to be said among the tribes that another mare had proved fleeter than mine? I have at least discomfort left me, that I can say she never met with her man.

Different countries have their different modes of horsemanship, but amongst all of them, its first practice was carried out in but a rude and indifferent way, being hardly a stepping stone to the comfort and delight gained from the use of the horse at the present day. The polished Greeks, as well as the ruder nations of northern Africa, for a long while rode without either saddle or bridle, guiding their horses with the voice or the hand, or with a light switch with which they touched the animal on the mountain. the side of the face to make him turn in the opposite direction. They urged him forward by a touch

of the heel, and stopped him by catching him by the muzzle. Bridal and bits were at length introduced, but many centuries elapsed before anything that could be called a saddle was used. Instead of these cloths, single or padded in skins of wild beasts, often richly adorned, were placed beneath the rider, but always without stirrups. And it is given as an extraordinary fact that the Romans, even in the times when luxury was carried to excess amongst them, never desired so simple and expedient for assisting the horsemen to mount, to lessen his fatigue and aid him in sitting more securely in his saddle. Ancient sculptures prove that the horsemen of almost every country

were accustomed to mount their horses from the right side of the animal, that they might better grasp the mane, which hangs on that side. a practice university changed in modern times. The ancients generally leaped on their horses' backs, though they sometimes carried a spear with a loop or projection about two feet from the bottom, which served them as a step. In Greece and Rome, the local magistrate, were bound to see that blocks for mounting, what the Scotch call, Lupinon stones,

were placed along the road at convenient distances. The great, however, thought it more, dignified to mount their horses by stepping on the bent backs of their servants or slaves, and many who could not command such costly help used to carry a light ladder about with them. The first distinct notice that we have of the use of the saddle occurs in the edict of the emperor Theodosus, AD 385, from which we also learn that it was usual for those who hired post-horses to provide their own saddle, and that the saddle should not weigh more than 60 pounds, a cumberance contrivance, more like the howdas placed on the backs of elephants,

than the light and elegant saddle of modern times. Side saddles for ladies are an invention of comparatively recent date. The first scene in England was made for Anne of Bohemia, wife of Richard the second, and was probably more like a pillion than the side saddle of the present day. Apilion is a sort of a very low-backed armchair and was fastened on the horse's croup behind the saddle, on which a man rode who had all the care of managing the horse, while the lady sat at her ease, supporting herself by grasping a belt which he wore or passing her arm around his body,

if the gentleman was not too ticklish. But the Mexicans managed these things with more gallantry than the agents did. The Pessana, or country lady, we are told, is often seen mounted before her cavalera, who take the more natural position of being seated behind his support if the bent position of the arm does not cause an occasional contraction of the muscles. These two positions may justly be considered as the first steps taken by the ladies towards their improved and elegant mode of riding at the present day. At an earlier period, when the diversion of hawking was prevalent,

they dressed themselves in the costume of the night and rode astride. Horses were in general use for many centuries before anything like a protection for the hoof was thought of, and it was introduced at first as a matter of course on a very simple scale. The first foot defense it was said, which was given to the horse, was on the same principle as that worn by man, which was a sort of a sandal made of leather and tied to the horse's foot by means of straps or strings. And finally, plates of metal were fastened to the horse's feet by the same simple means. Here again, as in the case of the stirrupless saddle,

when we reflect that men should for nearly a thousand years have gone on fastening plates of metal under horses' hoofs by the clumsy means of straps and strings, without it's ever occurring to them, to try so simple an improvement as nails. We have another remarkable demonstration of the slow steps by which horsemanship has reached its present state. In the foregoing remarks,

I have taken the liberty of extracting several facts from a valuable little work by Rola Springfield. With this short comment on the rise and progress of horsemanship, from its commencement up to the present time, I will proceed to give you the principles of a new theory of taming wild horses. which is the result of many experiments and a thorough investigation and trial of the different methods of horsemanship now in use.

End of introduction. Section 1 of the Arabian Art of Taming and Training Wild and Vicious Horses. This is a Libravox recording. All Libravox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit Libravox.org. Recording by Mike Vendetti, Mike Vendetti.com. The Arabian Art of Taming and Training Wild and Vicious Horses by P. R. Kincade and John J. Stutzman Section 1. The three fundamental principles of my theory founded on the leading characteristics of the horse.

First, that he is so constituted by nature that he will not offer resistance to any demand made of him, which he fully comprehends if made in a way consistent with the laws of his nature. Second, that he has no consciousness of his strength beyond his experience and can be handled according to our will without force. Third, that we can, in compliance with the laws of his nature, by which he examines all things new to him, take any object, however frightful, around, over, or on him that does not inflict pain without causing him to fear.

To take these assertations in order, I will first give you some of the reasons why I think he is naturally obfutable, and will not offer resistance to anything fully comprehended. The horse, though possessed of some faculties superior to man's being a deficient in reasoning powers, has no knowledge of right or wrong, of free will and independent government, and knows not of any imposition practiced upon him. However unreasonable these impositions may be. Consequently, he cannot come to any decision that he should or should not do

do because he has not the reasoning faculties of man to argue the justice of the thing demanded of him. If he had, taking into consideration his superior strength, he would be useless to man as a servant. Give him mind in proportion to his strength, and he will demand of us the green fields for an inheritance, where he will roam at leisure, denying the right of servitude to all. God has wisely formed his nature so that it can be operated upon by the knowledge of man according to the dictates of his will, and he might well be termed an unconscious submissive servant. This truth we can see verified in every day's experience by the abuses practiced upon him. Anyone who chooses to be so cruel can mount the noble steed and run him till he drops with fatigue,

or, as is often the case, with more spirited, fall dead with the rider. If he had the power to reason, would he not fault and pitch his writer rather than suffer him to run him to death? Or would he condensend to carry it all the vain imposter, who with but equal intellect, was trying to impose on his equal rights and equally independent spirit? But happily for us, he has no consciousness of imposition, no thought of disobedience except by impulse caused by the violation of the law of nature. consequently, when disobedient, it is the fault of man. Then we can but come to the conclusion that if a horse is not taken in a way at variance with the law of his nature,

he will do anything that he fully comprehends without making any offer of resistance. Second, the fact of the horse being unconscious of the amount of his strength can be proven to the satisfaction of anyone. For instance, such remarks as these are common and perhaps familiar to your recollection. One person says to another, if that wild horse there was conscious of the amount of his strength, his owner could have no business with him in that vehicle. Such light rains and harness, too, if he knew he could snap them asunder in a minute and be as free as the air we breathe, and that horse yonder that is pawing and fretting to follow the company that is fast leaving him.

If he knew his strength, he would not remain long fastened to that hitching post so much against his will by a strap that would no more resist his powerful weight and strength. then a cotton thread would bind a strong man. Yet these facts made common by everyday occurrence are not thought of as anything wonderful. Like the ignorant man who looks at the different faces of the moon. You look at these things as he looks at her different changes without troubling your mind with the question,

why are these things so? What would be the condition of the world if all our minds lay dormant? If men did not think reason and act, our undisturbed slumbering intellects would not excel the imbecility of the brute. We would live in chaos, hardly aware of our existence. And yet with all our activity of mind, we daily pass by unobserved, that which would be wonderful if philosophized and reasoned upon, and with the same inconsistency wonder at that which,

a little consideration, reason and philosophy, would be but a simple affair. Thirdly, he will allow any object. however frightful in appearance to come around over or on him that does not inflict pain. We know from a natural course of reasoning that there has never been an effected without a cause, and we infer from this that there can be no action, either inanimate or inanimate manner, without their first being some cause to produce it. And from this self-evident fact, we know that there is some cause for every impulse or movement of either mind, or matter, and that this law governs every action or movement of the animal kingdom.

Then, according to this theory, there must be some cause before fear can exist, and if fear exists from the effect of imagination and not from the infliction of real pain, it can be removed by complying with those laws of nature by which the horse examines an object and determines upon its innocence or harm. A log or stump by the roadside may be in the imagination of the horse, some great beast about to pounce upon him. But after you take him up to it and let him stand by it a little while and touch it with his nose and go through his process of examination, he will not care anything more about it

and the same principle and process will have the same effect with any other object, however frightful in appearance, in which there is no harm. Take a boy that has been frightened by a false face or by any other object that he could not comprehend it once. But let him take that face or object in his hands and examine it. And he will not care anything more about it. This is a demonstration of the same principle. With this introduction to the principles of my theory,

I shall next attempt to teach you how to put it into practice. And whatever instructions may follow, you can rely on as having been proven practical by my own experiments, and knowing from experience just what obstacles I have met with in handling bad horses. I shall try to anticipate them for you, and assist you in surmounting them by commencing with the first steps taken with the colt and accompanying you through the whole task of breaking. End of Section 1. Section 2 of the Arabian Art of Taming and Training Wild and vicious horses. This is a Librevox recording. All Libravox recordings are in the public domain.

More information or to volunteer, please visit Libravox.org. Recording by Mike Vendetti, Mikevendetti.com. The Art and Training of Wild and Vicious Horses by P.R. Kincaid and John J. Stutzman, Section 2. How to succeed in getting the colt from the pasture. Go to the pasture and walk around the whole herd quietly and at such a distance as not to cause them to scare and run. then approach them very slowly, and if they stick up their ears and seem to be frightened, hold on until they become quiet, so as not to make them run before you are close enough

to drive them in the direction you want to go. And when you begin to drive, do not flourish your arms or hollow, but gently follow them off, leaving the direction free for them that you wish them to take. Thus, taking advantage of their ignorance, you will be able to get them in the pound as easily as the hunter drives the quails into his net. For, if they have always run into the pasture uncared for, as many horses do in prairie countries and on large plantations, there is no reason why they should not be as wild as the sportsman's birds and require the same gentle treatment. If you want to get them without trouble, for the horse in his natural state is as wild

as any of the undomesticated animals, though more easily tamed than most of them. How to stable a colt without trouble. The next step will be to get the horse into a stable or shed. This should be done as quietly as possible, so as not to excite any suspicion in the horse of any danger befalling him. The best way to do this is to lead a gentle horse into the stable first and hitch him, then quietly walk around the colt and let him go in of his own accord. It is almost impossible to get men who have never practiced on this principle,

to go slow and considerate enough about it. They do not know that in handling a wild horse, above all other things, is that good old adage true, that haste makes waste, that is waste of time for the gain of trouble and perplexity. One wrong move may frighten your horse

and make him think it is necessary to escape at all hazards for the safety of his life, and thus make two hours work of a ten minutes job. And this would be all your own fault. and entirely unnecessary, for he will not run unless you run after him, and that would not be good policy unless you know that you could outrun him, or you will have to let him stop of his own accord after all. But he will not try to break away, unless you attempt to force him into measures,

if he does not see the way at once and is a little fearful about going in to not undertake to drive him, but give him a little less room outside by gently closing in around him. Do not raise your arms, but let them hang at your side, for you might as well raise a club. The horse has never studied anatomy, and does not know but that they will unhinges themselves and fly at him. If he attempts to turn back, walk before him, but do not run, and if he gets past you, encircle him again in the same quiet manner, and he will soon find that you are not going to hurt him, and you can soon walk so close behind him that he will go into the stable for more room, and to get further away from you. As soon as he is in, remove the quiet horse and shut the door.

This will be his first notion of confinement, not knowing how to get in such a place, nor how to get out of it. That he may take it as quietly as possible, see that the shed is entirely free from dogs, chickens, or anything that would annoy them. Then give him a few ears of corn, let him remain alone 15 or 20 minutes until he has examined his apartment and has become reconciled to his confinement. Time to reflect. And now, while your horse is eating those few ears of corn, is the proper time to see that your halter is ready and all right, and to reflect on the best mode of operations, for, in the horse-breaking, it is highly important that you should be governed by some system, and you should know before you attempt to do it.

anything, just what you were going to do, and how you are going to do it. And if you are experienced in the art of taming wild horses, you ought to be able to tell within a few minutes the length of time it would take you to halter the colt and learn him to lead. The kind of halter. Always use a leather halter, and be sure to have it made so that it will not draw tight around his nose if he pulls on it. It should be of the right size to fit his head easily and nicely, so that the noseband will not be too tight or too low. Never put a rope halter on an unbroken colt under any circumstances, whatever. They have caused more horses to hurt or kill themselves than would pay for twice the cost

of all leather halters that have ever been needed for the purpose of haltering colts. It is almost impossible to break a colt that is very wild with a rope halter without having him pull, rear, and throw himself, and thus endanger his life. And I will tell you why. It is just as natural for a horse to try to get his head out of anything that hurts it or feels unpleasant as it would be for you to try to get your hand out of a fire. The cords of the rope are hard and cutting. This makes him raise his head and draw on it. And as soon as he pulls the slip-noose, the way rope-halters are always made, tightens, and pinches his nose, and then he will struggle for life until perchance he throws himself, and who would have his horse throw himself, and run the risk of breaking his

neck. Rather than pay the price of a leather halter, but this is not the worst. A horse that has once pulled on his halter can never be as well broke as one that has never pulled at all. Remarks on the horse. But before we attempt to do anything more with the cold, I will give you some of the characteristics of his nature that you may better understand his motions. Everyone that has ever paid any attention to the horse has noticed his natural inclination to smell of everything, which to him looks new and frightful. This is their strange mode of examining everything. And when they are frightened at anything, though they look at it sharply, they seem to have no confidence in this optical examination alone, but must touch it with the nose, before they are

entirely satisfied. And as soon as this is done, all is all right. Experiments with the robe. If you want to satisfy yourself of this characteristic of the horse and learn something of importance concerning the peculiarities of his nature, etc., turn him into the barnyard, or a large stable will do, and then gather up something that you know will frighten him, a red blanket, buffalo robe, or something of that kind. Hold it up so that he can see it. He will stick up his head and snort. Then throw it down somewhere in the center of the lot or barn

and walk off to one side. Watch his motions and study his nature. If he is frightened at the object, he will not rest until he has touched it with his nose. You will see him begin to walk around the robe and snort, all the time getting a little closer as if drawn up by some magic spell, until he finally gets within reach of it, he will then very cautiously stretch out his neck as far as he can reach,

merely touching it with his nose, as though he thought it was ready to fly at him. But after he has repeated these touches a few times, for the first though he has been looking at it all the time, he seems to have an idea what it is, but now he is found by the sense of feeling that it is nothing that will do him any harm, and he is ready to play with it.

And if you watch him closely, you will see him take hold of it with his teeth and raise it up and pull at it. And in a few minutes you can see that he has not that same wild look about his eye, but stands like a horse, biting at some familiar stump. Yet the horse is never well satisfied when he is about anything that has frightened him, as when he is standing with his nose to it. And in nine cases out of ten, you will see some of that same. same wild look about him again as he turns to walk from it, and you will probably see him looking back very suspiciously as he walks away, as though he thought it might come after him yet.

And in all probability, he will have to go back and make another examination before he is satisfied. But he will familiarize himself with it, and if he should run in that lot a few days, the robe that frightened him so much at first, will be no more to him than a familiar stump. positions on the sense of smelling. We might very naturally suppose from the fact of the horses applying his nose to everything new to him that he always does so for the purpose of smelling these objects. But I believe it is as much or more for the purpose of feeling, and that he makes use of his nose or muzzle, as it is sometimes called,

as we would of our hands, because it is the only organ by which he can touch or feel anything with much susceptibility. I believe that he invariably makes use of the four senses, seeing, hearing, smelling, and feeling, in all of his examinations, of which the sense of feeling is perhaps the most important. And I think that in the experiment with the robe, his gradual approach and final touch with his nose

was as much for the purpose of feeling as anything else. His sense of smell being so keen that it would not be necessary for him to take. touch his nose against anything in order to get the proper scent, for it is said that a horse can smell a man the distance of a mile, and if the scent of the robe was all that was necessary, he could get that several rods off. But we know from experience that if a horse sees and smells a robe a short distance from him, he is very much frightened unless he is used to it, until he touches or feels it with his nose, which is a positive proof that feeling is the controlling

sense in this case. Prevailing opinion of horsemen. It is a prevailing opinion among horsemen generally that the sense of smell is the governing sense of the horse. And Fawture, as well as others, have, with that view, got up recipes of strong smelling oils, etc. to tame the horse, sometimes using the chestnut of his leg, which they dry, grind into powder, and blow into his nostrils, sometimes using the oil of rhodium, organum, etc., that are noted for their strong smell, and sometimes they scent the hands with the sweat from under the arm, or blow their breath into his nostrils, etc., etc., all of which, as far as the scent goes, have no effect whatever on gentling the horse, or conveying any idea to his mind through the works that

accompany these efforts, handling him, touching him, about the nose and head, and passing. Adding him as they direct you should after administering the articles may have a very great effect, which they mistake to be the effect of the ingredients used. And Fosser, in his work entitled, The Arabian Art of Taming Horses, Page 17, tells us how to accustom a horse to a robe by administering certain articles to his nose, and goes on to say that these articles must first be applied to the horse's nose before you attempt to break him in order to operate successfully. Now, reader, can you or anyone else give one single reason how scent can convey any idea to the horse's mind of what we want him to do?

If not, then, of course, strong scents of any kind are of no account in taming the unbroken horse. For everything that we get him to do of his own accord, without force must be accomplished by some means of conveying our ideas to his mind. I say to my horse, go long, and he goes, oh, and he stops, because these two words of which he has learned the meaning by the tap of the whip and the pull of the rain that first accompanied him convey the two ideas to his mind of go and stop. Fawcher, or no one else can ever learn the horse a single thing by the means of a scent alone.

How long do you suppose a horse would have to stand and smell a bottle of oil before he would learn to bend his knee and make a bow at your bidding, go yonder and bring your hat, or come here and lay down. Thus you see the absurdity of trying to break or tame the horse by the means of recipes

for articles to smell of, or medicine to give him of any kind whatever. The only science that it has ever existed in the world, relative to the breaking of horses, that has been of any account, is that true method which takes them in their native state and improves their intelligence. Powell's System of Approaching the Colt But before we go further,

I will give you Willis J. Powell's system of approaching a wild colt as given by him in a work published in Europe about the year 1811 on the art of taming wild horses. He says, A horse is gentled by my secret in from two to 16 hours. The time I have most common. commonly employed has been from four to six hours. He goes on to say, cause your horse to be put in a small yard, stable, or room. If in a stable or room, it ought to be large in order to give him

some exercise with the halter before you lead him out. If the horse belongs to that class which appears only to fear man, you must introduce yourself gently into the stable room or yard where the horse is. He will naturally run from you and frequently turn his head from you. but you must walk about extremely slow and softly, so that he can see whenever he turns his head toward you, which he never fails to do in a short time, say in a quarter of an hour, I never knew one to be much longer without turning towards me.

At the very moment he turns his head, hold out your left hand toward him, and stand perfectly still, keeping your eyes upon the horse, watching his motions if he makes any. If the horse does not stir for 10 or 15 minutes, advance as slowly as possible, and without making the least noise, always holding out your left hand, without any other ingredient in it than that what nature put in it.

He says, I have made use of certain ingredients before people, such as the sweat under my arm, etc., to disguise the real secret, and many believed that the docility to which the horse arrived in so short a time was owing to these ingredients. But you see from this explanation that they were of no use whatever, the implicit faith placed in these ingredients, though innocent of themselves, becomes faith without works. And thus men remained always in doubt concerning this secret. If the horse makes the least motion when you advance toward him, stop, and remain perfectly still until he is quiet. Remain a few moments in this condition, and then advance again in the same, slow and in perceptible manner.

Take notice. If the horse stirs, stop without changing your position. It is very uncommon for the horse to stir more than once after you begin to advance. Yet there are exceptions. He generally keeps his eyes steadfast on you until you get near enough to touch him on the forehead. When you are thus near to him, raise slowly and by degrees your hand and let it come in contact with that part just above the nostrils as lightly as possible. If the horse flinches, as many will, repeat with great rapidity,

these light strokes upon the forehead going a little further up toward the ears by degrees, and descending with the same rapidity until he will let you handle his forehead all over. Now let the strokes be repeated with more force over all his forehead, descending by lighter strokes to each side of his head until you can handle that part with equal facility. Then touch in the same light manner, making your hands and fingers play around the lower part of the horse's ears, coming down now and then to his forehead,

which may be looked upon as the helm that governs all the rest. Having succeeded in handling his ears, advanced toward the neck, with the same precautions, and in the same manner observing always to offer, augment the force of the stroke whenever the horse will permit it. Perform the same on both sides of the neck until he lets you take it in your arms without flinching. Proceed in the same progressive manner to the sides

and then to the back of the horse. Every time the horse shows any nervousness, return immediately to the forehead as the true standard, patting him with your hands and from thence rapidly to where you had already arrived, always gaining around a considerable distance further on every time this happens. The head, ears, neck and body, being thus gentled, proceed from the back to the root of the tail. This must be managed with dexterity as a horse is never to be depended on.

That is skittish about the tail. Let your hand fall lightly and rapidly on that part next to the body a minute or two, and then you will begin to give it a slight pull upwards every quarter. quarter of a minute. At the same time, you continue this handling of him. Augment the force of the strokes as well as the raising of the tail until you can raise it and handle it with the greatest ease, which commonly happens in a quarter of an hour in most horses, in others almost immediately, and in some much longer. It now remains to handle all his legs. From the tail, come back again to the head. Handle it well, as likewise the ear.

ears, breast, neck, etc. Speaking now and then to the horse, begin by degrees to descend to the legs, always ascending and descending, gaining ground every time you descend until you get to his feet. Talk to the horse in Latin, Greek, French, English, or Spanish, or any other language you please,

but let him hear the sound of your voice, which at the beginning of the operation is not quite so necessary, but which I have always done in making him lift up his feet. Hold up your foot. Live la Pid, Ezzitapai, Aron, Tonpode, etc. At the same time, lift his foot with your hand. He soon becomes familiar with the sounds and will hold his foot up at command.

Then proceed to the hind feet and go on in the same manner. And in a short time the horse will let you lift them and even take them up in your arms. All this operation is no magnetism, no galvanism. It is merely taking away the fear a horse generally has of a man and familiarizing the animal with his master. As the horse doubtless experiences a certain pleasure from this handling,

he will soon become gentle under it and show a very marked attachment to his keeper. Remarks on Powell's treatment how to govern horses of any kind, These instructions are very good, but not quite sufficient for horses of all kinds, and for haltering and leading the colt, but I have inserted it here because it gives some of the true philosophy of approaching the horse and of establishing confidence between man and horse. He speaks only of the kind that fear man.

To those who understand the philosophy of horsemanship, these are the easiest trained, for when we have a horse that is, as wild and lively, we can train him to our will in a very short time, for there are generally quick to learn, and always ready to obey. But there is another kind that are of a stubborn or vicious disposition, and although they are not wild, and do not require taming in the sense it is generally understood, they are just as ignorant as a wild horse, if not more so, and need to be learned just as much. And in order to have them obey quickly, it is very necessary to, that they should be made to fear their masters.

For in order to obtain perfect obedience from any horse, we must first have him fear us. For our motto is fear, love, and obey. And we must have the fulfillment of the first two before we can expect the latter. And it is by our philosophy of creating fear, love, and competence, that we govern to our will every kind of horse whatever. Then in order to take horses as we find them,

or all kinds, them to our likings we will always take with us when we go into a stable to train a colt a long switch whip whale bone buggy whips is the best with a good silk cracker so as to cut keen and make a sharp report which have handled with dexterity and rightly applied accompanied with a sharp fierce word will be sufficient to enliven the spirits of any horse with this whip in your right hand with the lash pointing backwards enter the stable alone It is a great disadvantage in training a horse to have anyone in the stable with you. You should be entirely alone so as not to have nothing but yourself to attract his attention. If he is wild, you will soon see him in the opposite side of the stable from you, and now is the time to use a little judgment. I would not want for myself more than half or three-quarters of an hour to handle any kind of a colt and have him running about in the stable after me.

though I would advise a new beginner to take more time and not to be in too much of a hurry. If you have but one colt to gentle, and are not particular about the length of time you spend, and have not had any experience in handling colds, I would advise you to take Mr. Powell's method at first, till you gentle him which he says takes from two to six hours. But as I want to accomplish the same and what is much more, learn the horse to lead in less than one hour, I shall give you a much quicker process of accomplishing the same end.

Accordingly, when you have entered the stable, stand still and let your horse look at you a minute or two. And as soon as he is settled in one place, approach him slowly, with both arms stationary, your right hanging by your side, holding the whip as directed, and the left bent at the elbow with your hand projecting. As you approach him, go not too much towards his head or group,

so as not to make him move either forward or backward, thus keeping your horse stationary. If he does move a little forward or backward, step a little to the right or left, very cautiously. This will keep him in one place. As you get very near him, draw a little to his shoulder, and stop a few seconds. If you are in his reach, he will turn his head and smell at your hand,

not that he has any preference for your hand, but because that is projecting and is the nearest portion of your body to the horse. This all Colts will do, and they will smell of your naked hand just as quick as they will of anything that you can put in it, and with just as good an effect. However, much some men have preached

the doctrine of taming horses by giving them the scent of articles from the hand, I have already proved that to be a mistake. as soon as he touches his nose to your hand, caress him, as before, directed. Always using a very light, soft hand, merely touching the horse, always rubbing the way the hair lies, so that your hand will pass along as smoothly as possible. As you stand by his side, you may find it more convenient to rub his neck or the side of his head, which will answer the same purpose as rubbing his forehead.

favor every inclination of the horse to smell or touch you with his nose. Always follow each touch or communication of this kind with the most tender and affectionate caresses, accompanied with a kind look and pleasant word of some sort, such as, oh, my little boy, oh, my little boy, pretty boy, nice lady, or something of that kind, consistently repeating the same words. With the same kind, steady tone of voice,

for the horse soon learns to read, the expression of the face and voice and will know as well when fear, love, or anger prevails as you know your own feelings, two of which fear and anger a good horseman should never feel. End of Section 2.

Section 3 of the Arabian Art of Taming and Training Wild and Vicious Horses. This Libre Vox recording is in the public domain. Recording by Mike Vendetti. By P.R. Kincaid and John J. Stutzman. Section 3. How to proceed if your horses is of a stubborn disposition. If your horse, instead of being wild, seems to be of a stubborn or mulish disposition,

if he lays back his ears as you approach him or turns his heels to kick you, he has not that regard or fear of man that he should have to enable you to handle him quickly and easily. And it might be well to give him a few sharp cruts with the whip about the legs pretty close to the body. It will crack keen as it plies around his legs, and the crack of the whip will affect him as much as the stroke. Besides, one sharp cut about his legs will affect him more than two or three over his back, the skin on the either part of his legs, or about his flanks being thinner, more tender, than on his back. But do not whip him much, just enough to scare him. It is not because we want to hurt the horse that we whip him. We only do it to scare that bad disposition out of him. But whatever

you do, do quickly, sharply, and with a good deal of fire, but always without anger. If you are going to scare him at all, you must do it at once. Never go into a pitch battle with your horse, and whip him until he is mad and will fight you. You had better not touch him at all, for you will establish instead of fear and regard, feelings of resentment, hatred, and ill will. It will do him no good, but an injury to strike a blow unless you can scare him. But if you succeed in scaring him, you can whip him without making him mad, for fear and anger never exist together in the horse. And as soon as one is visible, you will find that the other has disappeared. As soon as you have frightened him so that he will

stand up straight and pay some attention to you, approach him again, and caress him a good deal more than you whipped him. Then you will excite the two controlling passions of his nature, love and fear. Then he will fear and love you too, and as soon as he learns what to do will quickly obey. How to halter and lead the colt. As soon as you've gentled the colt a little, take the halter in your left hand and approach him as before, and on the same side that you have gentled him. If he is very timid about your approaching closely to him, you can get up to him quicker by making the whip a part of your arm, and reaching out very gently with the butt end of it, rubbing him lightly on the neck, all the time getting a little closer, shortening the whip by taking it

up in your hand until you finally get close enough to put your hands on him. If he is inclined to hold his head from you, put the end of the halter strap around his neck, drop your whip, and draw very gently. He will let his neck give, and you can pull his head to you. Then take hold of the part of the halter, which buckles over the top of his head, and pass the long side or that part which goes into the buckle under his neck, grasping it on the opposite side with your right hand. Letting the first strap loose, the latter will be sufficient to hold his head to you.

Lower the halter a little, just enough to get his nose into that part which goes around it. Then raise it somewhat, and fasten the top buckle. And you will have it all right. The first time you halter a colt, you should stand on the left side pretty well back to his shoulder, only taking hold of that part of the halter that goes round his neck. Then, with your hands about his arm,

neck, you can hold his head to you and raise the halter on it without making him dodge by putting your hands about his nose. You should have a long rope or strap ready, and as soon as you have the halter on, attach this to it, so that you can let him walk the length of the stable without letting go of the strap, or without making him pull on the halter. For if you only let him feel the weight of your hand on the halter, and give him rope when he runs from you, he will never rear pull or throw himself. Yet you will be holding him all the time and doing more toward gentling him than if you had the power to snub him right up and hold him to one spot. Because he does not know anything about his strength and if you don't do anything to make him pull, he will never know

that he can. In a few minutes you can begin to control him with the halter, then shorten the distance between yourself and the horse by taking up the strap in your hand. As soon as he will allow you to hold him by a tolerably short strap and step up to him without flying back, you can begin to give him some idea about leading. But to do this, do not go before and attempt to pull him after you, but commence by pulling him very quietly to one side. He has nothing to brace either side of his neck, and will soon yield to a steady, gradual pull of the halter. And as soon as you have pulled him a step or two to one side, step up to him and caress him, and then pull him again, repeating this operation until you can pull him around in every direction,

and walk about the stable with him, which you can do in a few minutes, for he will soon think when you have made him step to the right or left a few times, that he is compelled to follow the pull of the halter, not knowing that he has the power to resist your pulling. Besides, you have handled him so gently that he is not afraid of you, and you always caress him when he comes up to you, and he likes that. And would just as leave follow you as not.

And after he has had a few lessons of that kind, if you turn him out in a lot, he will come up to you every opportunity he gets. You should lead him about in the stable some time before you take him out, opening the door so that he can see out, leading him up to it and back again, and past it. See that there is nothing on the outside to make him jump.

When you take him out and as you go out with him, try to make him go very slowly. Catching hold of the halter close to the jaw with your left hand, while the right is resting on the top of the neck, holding to his mane. After you are out with him a little while, you can lead him about as you please. Don't let any second person come up to you when you first take him out. A stranger taking hold of the halter would frighten him and make him run.

There should not even be anyone standing near him to attract his attention or scare him. If you are alone and bandage him right, it will not require any more force to lead or hold him than it would to manage a broke horse. How to lead a colt by the side of a broken horse. If you should want to lead your colt by the side of another horse, as is often the case, I would advise you to take your horse into the stable,

attach a second strap to the colts halter, and lead your horse up alongside of him. Then get on the broke horse and take one strap around his breast under his martingale if he has any on. holding it in your left hand. This will prevent the colt from getting back too far. Besides, you will have more power to hold him, with the strap pulling against the horse's breast.

The other strap, take up your right hand to prevent him from running ahead, then turn him about a few times in the stable. And if the door is wide enough, ride out with him in that position. If not, take the broke horse out first, and stand his breast up against the door, then lead the colt to the same spot,

and take the straps as before directed, one on each side of his neck. Then let someone start the colt out, and as he comes out, turn your horse to the left, and you will have them all right. This is the best way to deal with a colt. You can manage any kind of colt in this way, without any trouble, for if he tries to run ahead or pull back, the two straps will bring the horses facing each other, so that you can easily follow up his movements without doing much holding, and as soon as he stops running backward,

you are right with him, and all ready to go ahead. And if he gets stubborn and does not want to go, you can remove all his stubbornness by riding your horse against his neck, thus compelling him to turn to the right, and as soon as you have turned him or out, a few times he will be willing to go along. The next thing, after you are through leading him, will be to take him into a stable

and hitch him in such a way as not to have him pull on the halter, and as they are often troublesome to get into a stable the first few times, I will give you some instructions about getting him in. How to lead a colt into the stable and hitch him without having him pull on the halter. You should lead the brogue horse into the stable first, and get the colt, if he can, to follow in after him. If he refuses to go, step up to him, taking a little stick or switch in your right hand,

then take hold of the halter close to his head with your left hand. At the same time, Reaching over his back with your right arm so that you can tap him on the opposite side with your switch. Bring him up facing the door. Tap him lightly with your switch, reaching as far back with it as you can. This tapping, by being pretty well back and on the opposite side, will drive him ahead and keep him close to you. Then by giving him the right direction with your left hand,

you can walk into the stable with him. I have walked Colts into the stable this way in less than a minute. after men had worked at them half an hour trying to pull them in. If you can not walk him in at once this way, turn him about and walk him around you in every direction until you can get him up to the door without pulling at him. Then let him stand a few minutes, keeping his head in the right direction with the halter,

and he will walk in, in less than ten minutes. Never attempt to pull a colt into the stable. That would make him think at once, that it was a dangerous place, and if he was not afraid of it before, he would be then. Besides, we don't want him to know anything about pulling on the halter. Colts are often heard and sometimes killed by trying to force them into the stable,

and those who attempt to do it that way go into an uphill business when a plain smooth road is before them. If you want to hit your colt, put him in a tolerably wide stall, which should not be too long, and should be connected by a bar or something of that kind, to the partition behind it, so that after the colt is in, he cannot get far enough back to

take a straight backward pull on the halter. Then by hitching him in the center of the stall, it would be impossible for him to pull on the halter, the partition behind preventing him from going back, and the halter in the center checking him every time he turns to the left or right. In a state of this kind, you can break every horse to stand hitched by a light strap, anywhere, without his ever knowing anything about pulling. But if you have a little bit of have broke your horse to lead and have learned him the use of the halter, which you should always do before you hitch him to anything. You can hitch him in any kind of a stall and give him something to eat to keep him up to his

place for a few minutes at first and there is not one colt in fifty that will pull on his halter. The kind of bit and how to accustom a horse to it, you should use a large, smooth, snaffle bit so as not to hurt his mouth with a bar to each side. prevent the bit from pulling through either way. This, you should attach to the headstall of your bridle and put it on your colt without any reins to it and let him run loose in a large stable or shed,

sometime until he becomes a little used to the bit and will bear it without trying to get it out of his mouth. It would be well, if convenient, to repeat this several times before you do anything more with the colt, as soon as he will bear the bit, attach a single rain to it without any martingale. You should also have a halter on your coat or a bridle made after the fashion of a halter with a strap to it, so that you can hold or lead him about without pulling on the bit much.

He is now ready for the saddle. How to saddle a colt. Any one man who has this theory can put a saddle on the wildest coat that ever grew without any help and without scaring him. The first thing will be to tie each stirrup strap into a loose knot, to make them short and prevent the stirps from flying about and hitting him. Then double up the skirts and take the saddle under your right arm, so as not to frighten him with it as you approach. When you get to him, rub him gently a few times with your hand,

and then raise the saddle very slowly until he can see it and smell, and feel it with his nose. Then let the skirts loose and rub it very gently against his neck, the way the hair lays, letting him hear the rattle of the skirts as he feels them, against him, each time getting a little further backward, and finally slip it over his shoulders on his back. Shake it a little with your hand, and in less than five minutes, you can rattle it about over his back as much as you please, and pull it off and throw it on again, without his paying

much attention to it. As soon as you have accustomed him to the saddle, fasten the girth. Be careful how you do this. It often frightens a colt when he feels the girth binding him, and making the saddle fit tight on his back. You should bring up the girth very gently and not draw it too tight at first, just enough to hold the saddle on. Move him a little and then girth it as tight as you choose, and he will not mind it. You should see that the pad of your saddle is all right before you put it on, and that there is nothing to make it hurt him or feel unpleasant to his back. It should not have any loose straps on the back part of it, to flap about and scare him. After you have saddled him in this way, take a switch in your right hand to tap him up with and walk about the stable a few times with your

right arm over the saddle, taking hold of the reins on each side of his neck with your right and left hands, thus marching him about the stable until you learn him the use of the bridle, and can turn him about in any direction and stop him by a gentle pull of the rain. Always caress him and loose the reins a little every time you stop him. You should always be alone and have your colt in some tight stable or shed. The first time you ride him, the loft should be high so that you can sit on his back without endangering your head. You can learn him more in two hours' time in a stable of this kind

than you could in two weeks in the common way of breaking holts, out in an open place. If you follow my course of treatment, you need not run any risk or have any trouble, in riding the worst kind of a horse. You take him a step at a time until you get up a mutual confidence and trust between yourself and horse.

First, learn him to lead and stand hitched. Next, acquaint him with the saddle and the use of the bit, and then all the remains is to get on him without scaring him, and you can ride him as well as any horse. How to mount the colt? First, gentle him well on both sides about the saddle,

and all over until he, he will stand still without holding. And it's not afraid to see you anywhere about him. As soon as you have him thus gentled, get a small block, about one foot or eighteen inches in height, and set it down by the side of him about where you want to stand to mount him. Step up on this, raising yourself very gently.

Horses notice every change of position very closely, and if you were to step up suddenly on the block, it would be very apt to scare him. but by raising yourself gradually on it, he will see you without being frightened, in a position very near the same as when you were on his back. As soon as he will bear this without alarm, untie the stirrup strap next to you,

and put your left foot into the stirrup, and stand square over it, holding your knee against the horse and your toe out, so as to touch him under the shoulder with the toe of your boot. Place your right hand on the front of the saddle and on the opposite side of you. Taking hold of a portion of the mane and the reins as they hang

loosely over his neck with your left hand, then gradually bear your weight on the stirrup. And on your right hand, until the horse fills your whole weight on the saddle. Repeat this several times, each time raising yourself a little higher from the block, until he will allow you to raise your leg over his croup and place yourself in the saddle.

There are three great advantages in having a block to mind, from. First, a sudden change of position is very apt to frighten a young horse that has never been handled. He will allow you to walk up to him and stand by his side without scaring at you because you have gentled him to that position. But if you get down on your hands and knees and crawl towards him, he will be very much frightened. And upon the same principle, he would frighten at your new position if you had the power to hold yourself over his back without touching him. Then the first great advantage of the block. is to gradually gentle him to that new position in which he will see you when you ride him.

Secondly, by the process of leaning your weight in the stirrups and on your hand, you can gradually accustom him to your weight, so as not to frighten him by having him feel it all at once. And in the third place, the block elevates you so that you will not have to make a spring in order to get on the horse's back, but from it you can gradually raise yourself into the saddle. When you take these precautions, there is no horse so wild, but what you can mount him without making him jump. I have tried it on the worst horses that could be found, and have never failed in any case.

When mounting, your horse should always stand without being held. A horse is never well broke until he has to be held with a light rain while mounting. And a colt is never so safe to mount as when you see that assurance of confidence and absence of fear, which causes him to stand without holding. How to ride the colt. When you want him to start, do not touch him on the side with your heel, or do anything to frighten him or make him jump.

But speak to him kindly, and if he does not start, pull him a little to the left until he starts, and then let him walk off slowly with the reins loose. Walk him around in a stable a few times until he gets used to the bit, and you can turn him about in every direction and stop him as you please. please. It would be well to get on and off a good many times until he gets perfectly used to it before you take him out of the stable. After you have trained him in this way, which should not take you more than one or two hours, you can ride him anywhere you choose without ever having him

jump or make any effort to throw you. When you first take him out of the stable, be very gentle with him, as he will feel a little more at liberty to jump or run, and be a little easier frightened than he was while in the stable. But after handling so much in the stable, he will be pretty well broke, and you will be able to manage him without trouble or danger. When you first mount him, take a little of the shortest hold on the left rain, so that if anything frightens him, you can prevent him jumping by pulling his head around to you. This operation of pulling a horse's head around against his side will prevent any horse from jumping ahead, rearing up or running away. If he is stubborn and will not go,

you can make him move by pulling his head around to one side when whipping would have no effect, and turning him around a few times. We'll make him dizzy, and then by letting him have his head straight and giving him a little touch with the whip, he will go along without any trouble. Never use martingales on a colt when you first ride him.

Every movement of the hand should go right to the bit in the direction in which it is applied to the reins, without a martingale to change the direct of the force applied. You can guide the colt much better without them and learn him the use of the bit in much less time. Besides, martingales would prevent you from pulling his head around if he should try to jump. After your colt has been roared until he is gentle

and well accustomed to the bit, you may find it an advantage if he carries his head too high or his nose too far out to put martingales on him. You should be careful not to ride your, colts so far at first as to heat, worry, or tire him. Get off as soon as you see he is a little fatigued, gentle him, and let him rest. This will make him kind to you and prevent him from getting stubborn or mad. The proper way to bid a colt. Farmers often put bidding harnesses on a colt, the first thing they do to him, buckling up the bidding as tight as they can draw

to make him carry his head high, and then turn him out in a lot to run. half a day at a time. This is one of the worst punishments that they could inflict on the colt, and very injurious to a young horse that has been used to running in pasture with his head down. I have seen colts so injured in this way that they never got over it. A horse should be well accustomed to the bit before you put on the bidding harnesses, and when you first bit him, you should only rein his head up to that point where he naturally holds it. Let that be high or low. He will soon learn that he cannot lower his head, and that raising it a little will loosen the bit in his mouth. This will give him the idea of raising his head to loosen the bit,

and then you can draw the bidding a little tighter every time he put it on, and he will raise his head to loosen it. By this means you will gradually get his head and neck in the position you want him to carry it, and give him a nice and graceful carriage without hurting him, making him mad or causing his mouth to get sore. you put the bidding on very tight the first time, he cannot raise his head enough to loosen it, but will bear it all the time in paw, sweat, and throw himself. Many horses have been killed by falling backward with the bidding on.

Their heads being drawn up strike the ground with the whole weight of the body. Horses that have their heads drawn up tightly should not have the bidding on more than 15 or 20 minutes at a time. End of Section 3. Section 4 of the Arabian art of taming and training wild and vicious horses. This Libra Vox recording is in the public domain. Recording by Mike Vendetti. By P.R. Kincaid and John J. Stutzman.

Section 4. How to drive a horse that is very wild and has any vicious habit. Take up one forefoot and bend his knee till his hoof is bottom upwards and merely touching his body, then slip a loop over his knee, and up until it comes above the pasture joint to keep it up. Being careful to draw the loop together between the hoof and pasture joint with a second strap of some kind to prevent the loop from slipping down and coming off. This will leave the horse standing on three legs.

You can now handle him as you wish, for it is utterly impossible for him to kick in this position. There is something in this operation of taking up one foot that conquers a horse quicker and better, than anything else you can do to him. There is no process in the world equal to it to break a kicking horse. For several reasons.

First, there is a principle of this kind and the nature of the horse that by conquering one member you conquer to a great extent the whole horse. You have perhaps seen men operate upon this principle by sewing a horse's ears together to prevent him from kicking. I once saw a plan given in a newspaper

to make a bad horse stand to be shot, which was to fasten down one ear. There were no reasons given why you should do so, but I tried it several times and thought it had a good effect, though I would not recommend its use, especially stitching his ears together. The only benefit arising from this process

is that by disarranging his ears, we draw his attention to them, and he is not apt to resist the shoeing. By trying up one foot, we operate on the same principle to a much better effect. When you first fasten up a horse's foot, he will sometimes get very mad and strike with his knee, and try every possible way to get it down. But he cannot do that, and we'll soon give it up. This will conquer him better than anything you can do,

and without any possible danger of hurting himself or you either, for you can tie up his foot and sit down and look at him, until he gives up. When you find that he is conquered, go to him. Let down his foot, rub his leg with your hand, caress him and let him rest a little. Then put it up again. Repeat this a few times, always putting up the same foot, and he will soon learn to travel on three legs so that you can drive him some distance. As soon as he gets a little used to this way of traveling, put on your harness and hitch him into a sulky. If he is the worst kicking horse that ever raised a foot, you need not be fearful of his doing any damage while he has one foot up, for he cannot kick.

Neither can he run fast enough to do any harm. And if he is the wildest horse that ever had harness on and has run away every time he has been hitched, you can now hitch him into a sulky and drive him as you please. And if he wants to run, you can let him have the lines and the whip too, with perfect safety, for he cannot go but a slow gate on three legs. And we'll soon be tired and willing to stop, only hold him enough to guide him in the right direction, and he will soon be tired and willing to stop at the word. Thus, he will effectively cure him at once of any further notion of running off. Kicking horses have always been the dread of everybody. You always hear men say, when they speak about a bad horse, I don't care what he does,

so we don't kick. This new method is an effectual cure for for the worst of all habits. There are plenty of ways by which you can hitch a kicking horse and force him to go, though he kicks all the time. But this don't have any good effect toward breaking him. For we know that horses kick because they are afraid of what is behind them, and when they kick against it and it hurts them, they will only kick the harder.

And this will hurt them still more, and make them remember the scrape much longer, and make it still more difficult to persuade them to have. have any confidence in anything dragging behind them ever after. But by this new method, you can hitch them to a rattling sulky, plow, wagon, or anything else in its worst shape. They may be frightened at first, but cannot kick or do anything to hurt themselves, and will soon find that they do not intend to hurt them, and then they will not care anything more about it. You can then let down the leg and drive along gently without any further trouble. By this new

process a bad-kicking horse can be learned to go gentle in harness in a few hours time. On balking. Horses know nothing about balking, only as they are brought into it by improper management. And when a horse balks in harness, it is generally from some mismanagement, excitement, confusion, or from not knowing how to pull, but seldom from any unwillingness to perform all that he understands. High-spirited, free-going horses are the most subject to balking, and only so because drivers do not properly understand how to manage this kind. A free horse and a team may be so anxious to go that when he hears the word he will start with a jump,

which will not move the load, but give him such a severe jerk on the shoulders that he will fly back and stop the other horse. The teamster will continue his driving without any cessation. And by the time he has a slow horse started again, he will find that the free horse has made another jump and again flew back. and now he has them both badly balked and so confused that neither of them knows what is the matter, or how to start to load.

Next will come the slashing and cracking of the whip, and the hulloing of the driver, till something is broken or he is through with his course of treatment. But what a mistake the driver commits by whipping his horse for this act. Reason and common sense should teach him that the horse was willing and anxious to go, but did not know how to start the load, and should he whip him for that? If so, he should whip him again for not knowing how to talk. A man who wants to act with any rationality or reason

should not fly into a passion but should always think before he strikes. It takes a steady pressure against the collar to move a load and you cannot expect him to act with a steady determined purpose while you are whipping him. There is hardly one balking horse in 500 that will pull true from whipping. It is only adding fuel to fire and will make them more life. to balk another time. You always see horses that have been balked a few times, turn their heads and look back as soon as they are a little frustrated. This is because they have been whipped

and are afraid of what is behind them. This is an invariable rule with balked horses such as much as it is for them to look around at their sides when they have the bots. In either case, they are deserving of the same sympathy and the same kind rational treatment. When your horse balks or is a little excited. If he wants to start quickly or looks around and don't want to go, there is something wrong and he needs kind treatment immediately. Caress him kindly, and if he don't understand at once what you want him to do, he will not be so much excited as to jump and break things,

and do everything wrong through fear. As long as you are calm and can keep down the excitement of the horse, there are ten chances to have him understand you, where there would not be one under harsh treatment. and then the little flare-up would not carry with it any unfavorable recollections, and he would soon forget all about it and learn to pull true. Almost every wrong act the horse commits is from mismanagement, fear, or excitement. One harsh word will so excite a nervous horse as to increase his pulse ten beats in a minute.

When we remember that we are dealing with dumb brutes and reflect how difficult it must be for them to understand our emotions, signs and language, We should never get out of patience with them because they don't understand us or wonder at they're doing things wrong. With all our intellect, if we were placed in the horse's situation, it would be difficult for us to understand the driving of some foreigner, the foreign ways and foreign language. We should always recollect that our own ways and language are just as foreign and unknown

to the horse as any language in the world is to us and should try to practice what we could understand. were we the horse endeavoring by some simple means to work on his understanding rather than on the different parts of his body? All balked horses can be started true and steady in a few minutes time. They are all willing to pull as soon as they know how, and I never yet found a balked horse that I could not teach him to start his load in 15, or often less than three minutes time.

Almost any team, when first balk, will start kindly if you let them start kindly, if you let them stand five or ten minutes, as though there was nothing wrong, and then speak to them with a steady voice, and turn them a little to the right or left, so as to get them both in motion before they feel the pinch of the load. But if you want to start a team

that you are not driving yourself that has been bought, fooled, and whipped for some time, go to them and hang the lines on their hams, or fasten them to the wagon, so that they will be perfectly loose, Make the driver and spectators, if there are any, stand off some distance to one side, so as not to attract the attention of the horses. Unloose their check reins so that they can get their heads down, if they choose.

Let them stand a few minutes in this condition until you can see that they are a little composed. While they are standing, you should be about their heads gentling them. It will make them a little more kind, and the spectators will think that you are doing something that they do not understand, and will not learn the secret. When you have them ready to start, stand before them, and, as you seldom have but one balky horse in a team, get as near in front of him as you can, and if he is too fast for the other horses,

let his nose come against your breast. This will keep him steady, for he will go slow rather than run on you. Turn them gently to the right, without letting them pull on the traces as far as the tongue will let them go. stop them with a kind word, gentle them a little, and then turn them back to the left by the same process. You will have them under your control by this time, and as you turn them again to the right, steady them in the collar,

and you can take them where you please. There is a quicker process that will generally start a balky horse, but not so sure. Stand him a little ahead so that his shoulder will be against the collar, and then take up one of his four feet in your hand. hand and let the driver start them. And when the weight comes against his shoulders, he will try to step, then let him have his foot, and he will go right along. If you want to break a horse from balking, that has long been in the habit, you ought to set apart a half-day for that purpose. Put him by the side of some steady horse, have check lines on them, tie up all the traces and straps, so that there will be nothing to excite them. Do not rain them up, but let them have their heads loose. Walk them about together for some time, as slowly and lazily as possible. Stop often, and go up to your balky horse and gentle him.

Do not take any whip about him, or do anything to excite him, and keep him just as quiet as you can. He will soon learn to start off at the word and stop whenever you tell him. As soon as he performs right, hitch him in an empty wagon. Have it stand in a favorable position for starting. It would be well to shorten the stage change, behind the steady horse, so that if it is necessary, he can take the weight of the wagon the first time you start them. Do not drive but a few rods at first. Watch your balky horse closely,

and if you see that he is getting balky, stop him before he stops, of his own accord. Caress him a little, and start again. As soon as they go well, drive them over a small hill a few times, and then over a large one, occasionally adding a little load. This process will make any horse true to pull, to break a horse to harness. Take him in a tight stable as you did to ride him. Take the harness and go through the same processes that you did with the saddle, until you get him familiar with them, so that you can put them on him and rattle without his caring for them.

As soon as he will bear this, put on the lines, caress him as you draw them over him, and drive him about in the stable till he will bear them over his hips. The lines are a great aggravation to some colts, and often frighten them as much as if you were to raise a whip over them. As soon as he is familiar with the harness and line, take him out and put him by the side of a gentle horse and go through the same process that you did with the balking horse. Always use a bridle without blinds when you are breaking a horse to harness. How to hit your horse in a sulky. Lead him to and around it.

Let him look at it, touch it with his nose, and stand by it till he does not care for it. Then pull the shafts a little to the left, and stand by your horse in front of the off wheel. Let someone stand on the right side of the horse and hold him by the bit while you stand on the left side, facing the sulky. This will keep him straight. Run your left hand back and let it rest on his hips,

and lay hold of the shafts with your right, bringing him up very gently to the left hand, which still remains stationary. Do not let anything but your arm touches back. And as soon as you have the shaft square over him, let the person on the opposite side take hold of one of them and lower them very gently on the shaft bearers. Be very slow and deliberate about hitching.

The longer time you take, the better as a general thing. When you have the shafts place, shake them slightly so that he will feel them against each side. As soon as he will bear them without scaring, fasten your braces, etc., and start him along very slowly. Let one man lead the horse to keep him gentle while the other gradually works back with the lines till he can get behind and drive him. After you have driven him in this way a short distance, you can get into the sulky,

and all will go right. It is very important to have your horse go gently when you first hit him. After you have walked him a while, there is not have so much danger of his scaring. tend to do very wrong to jump up behind a horse to drive him as soon as they have him hitched. There are too many things for him to comprehend all at once, the shafts, the lines, the harness, and the rattling of the sulky. All tend to scare him, and he must be made familiar with them by degrees. If your horse is very wild, I would advise you to put up one foot the first time you drive him.

How to make a horse lie down. Everything that we want to learn the horse must be. be commenced in some way to give him an idea of what we want him to do, and then be repeated till he learns it perfectly. To make a horse lie down, bend his left foreleg and slip a loop over it, so that he cannot get it down. Then put a circangle around his body and fasten one end of a long strap around the other foreleg, just above the hoof. Place the other end under the circangle, so as to keep the strap in the right hand. Stand on the left side of the horse, grasp the bit in your left hand, pull steadily on the strap with your right. Bear against his

shoulder till you cause him to move. As soon as he lifts his weight, your pulling will raise the other foot, and he will have to come on to his knees. Keep the strap tight in your hand so that he cannot straighten his leg if he raises up. Hold him in this position and turn his head toward you. Pair against his side with your shoulder, not hard, but with a steady equal pressure. And in about ten minutes, he will lie down. As soon as he lies down, he will be completely conquered, and you can handle him as you please. Take off the straps and straighten out his legs. Rub him lightly about the face and neck, with your hand the way the hair lies.

Handle all his legs, and after he has lain ten or twenty minutes, let him get up again. After resting him a short time, make him lie down as before. Repeat the operation three or four times, which will be sufficient for one lesson. Give him two lessons a day. And when you have given him four lessons, he will lie down by taking hold of one foot as soon as he is well broken to lie down in this way. Tap him on the opposite leg with a stick when you take hold of his foot, and in a few days he will lie down from the mere motion of the stick.

How to make a horse follow you. Turn him into a large stable or shed, where there is no chance to get out with a halter or bridle on. Go to him and gentle him a little, take a hold of his halter and turn him towards you, at the same time touching him lightly over the hips with a long whip. Lead him the length of the stable, rubbing him on the neck, saying in a steady tone of voice as you lead him,

come along, boy. Or use his name instead of boy, if you choose. Every time you turn, touch him slightly with the whip to make him step up close to you and then caress him with your hand. He will soon learn to hurry up

to escape the whip and be caressed. And you can make him follow you around without taking hold of the halter. If he should stop and turn from you, give him a few cuts about the hind legs and he will soon turn his head toward you. When you must always caress him, a few lessons of this kind

will make him run after you when he sees the motion of the whip. In 20 or 30 minutes, he will follow you about the stable. After you have given him two or three lessons in the stable, take him out into a small lot and train him. And from thence, you can take him into the road and make him follow you anywhere and run after you. How to make a horse stand without holding.

After you have him well broken to follow you, stand him in the center of the stable, begin at his head to caress him, gradually working backward. If he moves, give him a cut with the whip and put him back in the same spot from which he started. If he stands, caress him as before, and continue gentling him in this way until you can get round him without making him move. Keep walking around him, increasing your pace, and only touching

him occasionally. Enlarge your circle as you walk around, and if he then moves, give him another cut with the whip and put him back to his place. If he stands, go to him frequently and caress him, and then walk around him again. Do not keep him in one. position too long at a time, but make him come to you occasionally and follow you round in the stable, then stand him in another place and proceed as before. You should not train your horse more than half an hour at a time. End of Section 4. Section 5 of the Arabian Art of Taming and Training Wild and Vicious horses. This Lieber Vox recording is in the public domain, recording by Mike Vendetti, Mike Vendetti.com, by P.R. Kincaid and John J. Stutzman.

Section 5. The Horseman's Guide and Farrier by John J. Stutzman. West Rushville, Fairfield, County, Ohio. I will here insert some of the most efficient cures of diseases to which the horse is subject. I have practiced them for many years with unparalleled success. I have cured horses with the following remedies, which in many cases have been given up in despair, and I never had a case in which I did not affect a cure. Cure for colic Take one gill of turpentine, one gill of opium dissolved in

whiskey, one quart of water, milk warm, drench the horse, and move him about slowly. If there is no relief in 15 minutes, take a piece of chalk about the size of an egg, powder it, and put it into a pint of cider vinegar, which should be blood-warm,

give that, and then move him as before. Another. Take one ounce of lodium, one ounce of ether, 1 ounce of tincture of asafotidia, 2 ounces tincture of peppermint, half pint of whiskey. Put all in a quart bottle, shake it well, and drench the horse. Cure for the bots. Take one and one half pint of fresh milk, just from the cow, one pint of molasses,

drench the horse and bleed him in the mouth, then give him one pint of linseed oil to remove them. For distemper, take mustard seed, ground fine, tar and rye chop, Make pills about the size of a hen's egg. Give him six pills every six hours until they psychic him. Then give him one tablespoonful of the horse powder mentioned before, once a day until cured. Keep him from cold water for six hours after using the powder. Long fever.

In the first place, bleed the horse severely. Give him spirits of nitre in water which should not be too cold, for it would chill him, keep him well covered with blankets and rub his legs and body well. Blister him around the chest with mustard seed, and be sure to give him no cold water unless there is spirits of nitre in it. Rheumatic liniment. Take croton oil, aqua ammonia, FFF oil of caduput, oil of organum in equal parts. Rub well. It is good for spinal diseases and weak back. cuts and wounds of all kinds one pint of alcohol half ounce of gum of myrr half ounce aloes wash once a day

sprains and swellings take one and one-half ounces of hearts horn one ounce camper two ounces spirits of turpentine four ounces sweet oil eight ounces alcohol anoint twice a day for glanders take of burnt buck's horn horn a tablespoonful. Every three days for nine days. If there is no relief in that time, continue the powder until there is relief. Saddle or collar liniment. One ounce of spirits of turpentine, half ounce of oil of spike, half ounce essence of wormwood, half ounce castle soap, half ounce gum camphor, half ounce sulfuric ether, half-pint alcohol and wash freely. Lindemant to set the stifle joint on a horse.

One ounce oil of spike, half-ounce oregano, half-ounce oil amber. Shake it well and rub the joints twice a day until cured, which will be in two or three days. Eye water. I have tried the following and found it an efficient remedy. I have tried it on my own eyes and those of others. Take bolus muna, one ounce. White vitriol, one ounce, alum, half ounce, with one pint clear rainwater.

Shake it well before using. If too strong, weaken it with rainwater. Linnimate for wind galls, strains, and growth of lumps on man or horse. One ounce oil of spike, half ounce oregano. Half-ounce Amber, Aquafortis, and Sal Ammoniac, One Dracum. Spirit of salts, one-drakem oil of sassafras, half-ounce, heart's horn, half-ounce. Bathe once or twice a day.

Horse powder. This powder will cure more diseases than any other medicine known, such as distemper, fersy, hide-bound, colds, and all lingering diseases which may arrive from impurity of the blood or lungs. Take one pound comfy root, half pound antimony, half pound sulfur, three ounces of salt peter, half pound laurel berries, half pound juniper berries, half pound angedice seed, half pound rosin, three ounces islam, half pound copperous, half pound master wart, half pound gunpowder,

mix all into a powder and give in most cases one tablespoonful in mash feed once a day till cured. Keep the horse dry and keep him from the cold water six hours after using it. For cuts or wounds on horse or man, take fish worms mashed up with old bacon oil and tie on the wound which is the surest and safest cure. Oil for collars. This oil will also cure bruises, sores, swellings, strains or galls. Take fishworms and put them in a crock or other vessel 24 hours till they become clean. Then put them in a bottle and throw plenty of salt upon them. Place them near a stove and they will turn to oil.

Rub the parts affected freely. I have cured knee-sprung horses with this oil frequently. Soar and scum dies on horses. Take fresh butter or rabbit. fat, honey, and the white of three eggs well stirred up with salt and black pepper ground to a fine powder. Mix it well and apply to the eye with a feather. Also rub above the eye in the hollow with the salve. Wash freely with cold spring water. For a bruised eye, take rabbits fat and use as above directed. Bathe freely with fresh spring water. I have cured many bloodshot eyes with this

simple remedy. Pole Evil or Fistula. Take of Spanish flies 1 ounce, gum euphioribum, 3 drachms, tartar emick 1 ounce, rosin 3 ounces, mix and pulverize, and then mix them

with a half pound of lard. Aenoid every three days for three weeks, grease the parts affected with lard every 4 days, washed with soap and water before using the salve. In pole evil, if open, pulverized black bottle glass. Put as much in each ear as will lay on a dime. The above is recommended

in outside callous such as spavin, ringbone, curbs, wing dolls, etc., etc. For the Pharisee, take one quart of sassafras root bark, one quart burdock root, spice wood, brook fine, one pint rattleweed root, boil in one and one-half gallons of water. Scald Bran, when cool, give it to the horse once a day for three or four days, then bleed him in the neck and give him the horse powder as directed in extreme cases. I also rowl in the breast and hind legs to extract the corruption and remove the swelling. This is also an efficient remedy for blood diseases, etc., etc. How to make hair grow on man or beast.

Take milk of sulfur, one-half drachim, sugar of lead, one-half-drackam, rosewater, one-half gill, mix and bathe well twice a day for ten days. Cholera or diarrhea tincture. One ounce of laudium, one ounce of spirits of camphor, one ounce spirits of nitre, one-half-ounce essence of peppermint, 20 drops of chloroform, put all in a bottle, shake well, and take one-half-teaspoon full. in cold water once every six, 12, and 24 hours, according to the nature of the case. Cure for the heaves. Give 30 grains of tartar emick every week until cured. Process of causing a horse to lay down. Approach him gently upon the left side. Fasten a strap around the ankle of his forefoot, then raise the foot gently so as to bring the knee against the breast and the foot against the belly. The leg being in this position,

fasten the strap around his arm, which will effectively prevent him from putting that foot to the ground again. Then fasten a strap around the opposite leg and bring it over his shoulder on the left side so that you can catch hold of it. Then push these gently. When he goes to fall, pull the strap, which will bring him on his knees.

Now commence petting him under the belly. By continuing your gentle strokes upon the belly, you will, in a few minutes, bring him to his knees behind. Continue the process, and he will lie entirely down and submit himself wholly to your treatment. By thus proceeding gently, you may handle his feet and legs any way you choose. However wild and fractious a horse may be naturally,

after practicing this process a few times, you will find him perfectly gentle and submissive and even disposed to follow you anywhere and unwilling to leave you on any occasion. Unless the horse be wild, the first treatment will be all sufficient, but should he be too fractious to be approached in a manner necessary to perform the first-named operation?

This you will find effectual, and you may then train your horse, to harness or anything else with the utmost ease. In breaking horses for harness, after giving the powders, put the harness on gently without startling him, and pat him gently. Then fasten the chain to a log,

which he will draw for an indefinite length of time. When you find him sufficiently gentle, place him to a wagon or other vehicle. Note. Be extremely careful in catching a horse, not to affright him. After he is caught and the powder's given, rub him gently on the head, neck, back, and legs, and on each side of the eyes, the way the hair lies, but be very careful not to whip. For a young horse is equally passionate with yourself, and this pernacious practice

has ruined many fine and valuable horses. When you are riding a colt, or even an old horse, Do not whip him if he scares, but draw the bridle, so that his eye may rest upon the object which has frightened him, and pat him upon the neck as you approach it. By this means you will pacify him and render him less liable to start in future. Means of learning a horse to pace. Buckle a four-pound weight around the ankles of his hind legs. Lead is preferable.

ride your horse briskly with those weights upon his ankles. At the same time, twitching each rein of the bridle alternately, by this means you will immediately throw him into a pace. After you have trained him in this way, to some extent, change your leaded weights for something lighter, leather padding or something equal to it. We'll answer the purpose. Let him wear these light weights until he is perfectly trained.

This process will make a small, move, then easy pacer of any horse. Horsemanship. The rider should in the first place, let the horse know that he is not afraid of him. Before mounting a horse, take the rein into the left hand, draw it tightly, put the left foot in a stirrup, and rise quickly.

When you are seated, press your knees to the saddle. Let your leg, from the knee stand out, turn your toe in and heel out, sit up right in the saddle, throw your weight forward, one-third of it, in the stirrups, and hold your rain tight. Should your horse scare? You are braced in your saddle, and he cannot throw you. Indication of a horse's disposition. A long, thin neck indicates a good disposition.

Contrwise, if it be short and thick, a broad forehead, high between the ears, indicates a very vicious disposition, cures and etc. Cure for the flounder. Let one and a half gallons of blood from the neck vein. Make frequent applications of hot water to his forelegs, after which bathe them in wet cloths. Then give one quart linseed oil. The horse will be ready for service the next day.

BOTS. Mix one pint honey with one quart sweet milk. Give us a drench. One hour after, dissolve one ounce pulverized corpus in a pint of water. Use likewise. Then give one quart of linseed oil. Cure effectual. Collic.

After bleeding copiously in the mouth, take a half pound of raw cotton, wrap it around a coal of fire in such a way as to exclude the air when it begins to smoke. Hold it under the horse's nose until he becomes easy. Cure certain in ten minutes. Distemper. Take one and one half gallons of blood from the neck vein. Then give a dose of sassafras oil,

1 and 1.5 ounces is sufficient. Cure speedy and certain. Festula. When it makes its appearance, roll both sides of the shoulder if it should break. Take one ounce of verdidus, one ounce oil rosin, one ounce coperous, pulverize and mix together. Use it as a salve. Recipe for bone spavin or ring bone. Take a tablespoonful of corrosive sublimic,

quicksilver about the size of a bean, three or four drops of muratic acid, iodine, about the size of a pea, and lard enough to form a paste. Grind the iodine and sublimate fine as flour, and put all together in a cup. Mix well. Then share the hair all off the size you want. Wash clean with soap suds, rub dry, then apply the medicine. Let it stay on for five days. If it does not take effect, take it off.

Mix it over with a little more lard. Add some fresh medicine. When the lump comes out, wash it clean in soap suds, then apply Pullus of cow dung. Leave it on 12 hours, then apply healing medicine. Temperous beverage. One quart of water, three pounds of sugar. One teaspoonful of lemon oil, one tablespoon full of flour with the whites of four eggs, well beat up. Mix the above well together, then divide the syrup, and add four ounces of carbonic soda in one half

and three ounces of tartaric acid in the other half. Then bottle for use. Sasparilla syrup. One ounce sasperilla, two pounds brown sugar, ten drops, wintergreen, and half pint of water. End of Section 5. End of the Arabian Art of Taming and Training Wild and Vicious Horses by PR. Kincaid and John J. Stutzman.