Classic Audiobook Collection - Travels in Brazil, Volume 1 by Henry Koster ~ Full Audiobook [history]

Episode Date: July 22, 2024

Travels in Brazil, Volume 1 by Henry Koster audiobook. Genre: history In Travels in Brazil, Volume 1, Englishman Henry Koster offers a vivid, observant account of northeastern Brazil in the early nineteenth century, written from the perspective of a long-term resident rather than a passing tourist. Arriving for the sake of his health and drawn into local life, Koster journeys through Pernambuco and surrounding regions, moving between bustling port towns and the interior's plantations, rivers, forests, and small settlements. Along the way he records the rhythms of daily work and travel, the practical challenges of roads, weather, and lodging, and the complex social world shaped by slavery, commerce, religion, and colonial administration. Koster's narrative blends scene-by-scene travel with careful description of agriculture, animals, food, architecture, and regional customs, while also reflecting on the tensions and misunderstandings that arise when an outsider tries to navigate unfamiliar rules and hierarchies. The central drive of the book is his effort to make sense of a vast country in transition, balancing curiosity and critique as he documents what he sees and hears with a steady, sometimes surprising frankness. For ad-free listening try our premium subscription Chapters (Approximate) (00:00:00) Chapter 01 (00:24:50) Chapter 02 (01:08:37) Chapter 03 (01:37:52) Chapter 04 (02:12:22) Chapter 05 (02:51:11) Chapter 06 (03:21:13) Chapter 07 (03:47:15) Chapter 08 (04:24:49) Chapter 09 (05:01:15) Chapter 10 (05:46:25) Chapter 11 (06:23:24) Chapter 12 (06:50:15) Chapter 13 (07:16:34) Chapter 14 (07:53:05) Chapter 15 (08:15:20) Chapter 16 (08:43:43) Chapter 17 (09:13:55) Chapter 18 Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Travels in Brazil, Volume 1 by Henry Costa. Chapter 1 Departure from Liverpool, arrival at Perhambuco, the town and harbor of Hesifi, the governor, the trade. If my health had not required a change of climate, I should not perhaps so soon have accomplished the wish I had

often expressed of leaving England for a short time. An immediate removal was judged expedient, and as the ports of Spain and Portugal were either closed to British subjects, or at least not in a state to be visited by an invalid, I determined upon Brazil, to which my friends agreed, I fixed on Pernambuco, because a gentleman, who had for many years been acquainted with my family, was about to embark for that place, and from the favorable reports of the people and climate which I had received from several persons. On the 2nd of November 1809, I sailed from Liverpool in the ship Lucy. We had a very prosperous passage of 35 days, without any occurrence worthy of particular notice. I was agreeably awake and very early on the

morning of the 7th of December with the news that we're in sight of land and likely to get into harbor this day. We soon discovered two vessels, with all-sales set making for us. These proved to be two English merchant ships bound likewise to Pernambuco. They had never before been at this port, and therefore wished to receive some information respecting it. They judged that from the manner in which our vessel made for the land, her commander must be acquainted with it, which was the case, this being the second voyage of the Lucy to Pernambuco. The land is low, and consequently not to be seen at any considerable distance, but as we approached him, we distinguished the hill upon which stands the city of Olinda,

a little to the northward, and some leagues to the southward, the Cape of St. Augustino. In the ear-view discovered to us the town of St. Antonio do Hesifie, almost ahead with the shipping in front of it. The dreary land between it and Alinda, which is one-league distant, and cocoa grows northward as far as the eye can reach, which is one-le-d distant, and cocoa-groves northward, as far as the eye can reach. Southward of the town are also seen great numbers of cocoa trees, woods, and scattered cottages. The situation of Alinda is the highest in the neighborhood, and though not very high, is still not despicable. Its appearance from the sea is most delightful.

It's whitewashed churches and convents upon the tops and sides of the hill. Its gardens and trees interspersed among the houses, afford a promise of great extent, and hold out expectations of great beauty. The sands, which extend one league to the southward of it, are relieved by two fortresses erected upon them, and by the ships in the lower harbor. Then follows the town of Hesifi, with the appearance of being built in the water, so low as the sandbank upon which it has been raised. The shipping immediately in front partly conceal it, and the bold reef of rocks on the outside of these, with the surf dashing violently against and over it give to them the appearance of being

ashore, and as no outlet has seen, they seem to be hemmed in. The small tower or fort at the northern end of the reef, however, soon claims attention and points out the entrance. We approached the land rather to the southward of the town, and coasted under very easy sail, at a short distance from the reef, waiting for a pilot. It was not yet known, the sea was smooth, the sun was bright, and everything looked pleasant. The buildings are all whitewashed, and sun shone upon them and gave to them a glittering silver, appearance. Nothing this day created so much astonishment on board our ship,

amongst those who had not been before upon this coast, as the Djenghas, sailing about in all directions. These are simply rafts of six logs of a peculiar species of light timber, lashed or pinned together, a large Latin sail, a paddle used as a rudder, a sliding keel lit down between the two center logs, a seat for the steersman, and a long forked pole, upon which is hum the vessel containing water, the provisions, etc. These rude floats have a most singular appearance at sea, no hull being apparent even when near them. They are usually managed by two men, and go closer to the wind than any description of vessel. A large rowboat at last made its appearance, doubling the end of the reef near the small fort, which was declared to be that which

brings off the pilots. The Patram Moor, Harbormaster, in his naval uniform, likewise came on board. A large launch followed the pilot, man chiefly by Negroes, almost naked, the color of these men, the state in which they were, their noise and bustle, when certainly there was no occasion for it and their awkwardness were to me all new. This very first communication with the shore gave me an idea, for the moment, that the manners of the country at which I had arrived were still more strange than they actually proved to be. These visitors were followed by others of a very different description. Two boats came alongside manned by Englishmen and conveying several English gentlemen.

The former belonged to British ships loading in the harbor, and the latter were young, men who had come out to Pernambuco to settle as merchants. The pilot placed himself near to the ship's windlass. A Portuguese sailor was sent to take the helm, but still the vociferation was extreme. The man seemed to think that by speaking very loudly, he would make the English seaman understand his language, and what with his bawling to them and to his own people and their noise, the confusion was excessive. However, we doubled the fort in safety, came to anchor in the upper harbor. The reef is very perpendicular near the bar, and to one unacquainted with the port, there is every appearance of the vessel being about to drive upon it.

I then accompanied my fellow passenger. We left the ship and proceeded to the shore. Here was a new scene indeed. We had taken the letter bag with us. The crowd of well-dressed persons upon the key was great. They saw the bag and soon their anxiety for news over. became their politeness, the letters were asked for, and at last we gave them up, and they were scrambled for, each man seeking his own. We'd landed at the Custom House Wharf upon a busy day, and the Negroes, too, were all clamor and bustle, their hideous noise when carrying any load, bawling out some ditty of their own language, or some distich of vulgar Portuguese rhyme. The numerous questions asked by many persons who met us, in the very circumstance of seeing a population

consisting chiefly of individuals of a dark color, added to the sound of a new language, with which, although I was acquainted, still I had not since very early youth been in a country where it was generally spoken, all combined to perplex and to confuse. I was led along by those who were accustomed to these scenes, we proceeded to the house of one of the first merchants in the place. We were ushered up one pair of stairs into a room in which, were several piles of peace goods, a table covered with papers, and several chairs. There were four or five persons in the room, besides the owner of the house. I delivered my letter of introduction to him and was treated with the greatest civility. Our next visit was to a colonel, who is also a merchant,

from whom I met with the same behavior. As there are no inns or furnished lodgings at Hesifi or at Olinda. Footnote, a house answering both these purposes has lately been established at Hesifi by an Irishman and his wife, 1815. End footnote. An acquaintance of my fellow passenger obtained some temporary rooms for us and supplied us with what we wanted. We are therefore at last quietly settled in our new habitation, if I may be allowed to call it quiet, while some 20 black women are under the window bawling out in almost all tones and keys of which the human voice is capable. Orangees, bananas, sweetmeats, and other commodities for sale. The town of St. Antonio de Hesifi, commonly called Pernambuco, though the latter is properly the

name of the captaincy, consists of three compartments, connected by two bridges. A narrow long neck of sand stretches from the foot of the hill, upon which Olinda is situated to the southward. The southern extremity of this bank expands and forms the site of that part of the town, particularly called Hesifi, as being immediately within the reef. There is another sandbank also of considerable extent, upon which has been built the second division, called Sant Antonio, connected with that already mentioned by means of a bridge. Yet a third division of the town remains to be mentioned, called Boa Vista, which still stands upon the mainland to the southward of the other two, and is joined to them also by a bridge.

The Hesifi, or reef of rocks, already spoken of, runs in front of these sandbanks, and receives upon it the principal force of the sea, which at the flow of the tide rolls over it, but is much checked by it, and strikes the keys and buildings of the town with diminished strength. The greatest part of the extent of sand between Olinda and the town which remains uncovered is open to the sea, and the surf there is very violent. Buildings have only been raised within the protection of the reef. The tide enters between the bridges and encircles the middle compartment. On the land side there is a considerable expanse of water, having much the appearance of a lake, which becomes narrower towards Olinda and reaches to the very streets of the river.

that place, thus facilitating the communication between the two towns. The view from the houses that look onto these waters is very extensive and very beautiful. Their opposite banks are covered with trees and whitewashed cottages, varied by small open spaces and lofty cocoa trees. The first division of the town is composed of brick houses of three, four, and even five stories in height. Most of the streets are narrow. In some of the older houses and the minor streets are only of one story and height, and many of them consist only of the ground floor. The streets of this part, with the exception of one, are paved.

In the square are the custom house in one corner, a long, low and shabby building, the sugar inspection, which bears the appearance of a dwelling house, a large church, not finished, a coffee house, in which the merchants assemble to transact their commercial affairs, and dwelling houses. There are two churches in use, one of which is built over the stone archway leading from the town to Alinda, at which a lieutenant's guard is stationed.

The other church belongs to the priests of the Congregraison de Mardre Gilles. Near to the gateway above mentioned is a small fort, close to the water side which commands it. To the northward is the residence of the port admiral, where the government timber yards attached to it.

These are small, and the work going on in them is very trifling. The cotton market, warehouses, and presses are also in this part of the town. Footnote, it is perhaps not generally known that the bags of cotton are compressed by means of machinery into a small compass and fastened round with ropes that the ships which convey them may contain a great number. End footnote. The bridge which leads to St. Antonio has an archway at either end, with a small chapel built upon each, and at the northern arch is stationed a sergeant's guard of six or eight men.

The bridge is formed in part of stone arches, and in part of wood. It is quite flat, in line with small shops, which render it so narrow that two carriages cannot pass each other upon it. St. Antonio, or the Middletown, is composed chiefly of large houses and broad streets, and if these buildings had about the many beauty, there would exist here a certain degree of grandeur, but they are too lofty for their breath, and the ground floors are appropriated to shops, warehouses, stables, and other purposes of a like nature. The shops are without windows, and the only light they have is admitted from the door. There exists as yet very

little distinction of trades, thus all descriptions of manufactured goods are sold by the same person. Some of the minor streets consist of low and shabby houses. Here are the governor's palace, which was in other times the Jesuits convent, the town hall and prison, the barracks, which are very bad, the Franciscan Carmelite and Pena convents, and several churches, the interiors of which are very handsomely ornamented, but very little plan has been preserved in the architecture of the buildings themselves. It comprises several squares and has, to a certain degree, a gay and lively appearance. This is the principal division of the town. The bridge which connects St. Antonio with Bohevista is constructed entirely of wood and has upon it no shops,

but it is likewise narrow. The principal street of Boa Vista, which was formerly a piece of ground overflow, at high water, is broad and handsome. The rest of this third division consists chiefly of small houses, and as there is plenty of room here it extends to some distance in a straggling manner. Neither the streets of this part of the town nor of St. Antonio are paved. A long embankment has likewise been made, which connects the sandbank and town of St. Antonio with the mainland at afogados. Footnote. I did not discover any vestiges of the fort which stood here at the time of the Dutch War. End footnote. To the south and west of Boa Vista. The river, Capibaribe, so famous in Pernambuco

history, discharges his waters into the channel between St. Antonio and Boa Vista, after having run for some distance in a course nearly east and west. Some few of the windows of the houses are glazed and have iron balconies, but the major part are without glass, and of these balconies are enclosed by latticework, and no females are to be seen, excepting the Negro slaves, which gives a very somber look to the streets. The Portuguese footnote, I shall use this word exclusively when speaking of Europeans of this nation, and the word Brazilian, when speaking of white persons born in Brazil. End footnote. The Brazilian, and even the mulatto women, in the middle ranks of life, do not move out of doors in the daytime. They hear mass at the churches before daylight, and do not again

stir out, except in sedan chairs, or in the evening on foot, when occasionally a whole family will sally forth to take a walk. The upper harbor of Hesifi, called the Mosquito, as has been already said, is formed by the reef of rocks which run parallel with the town at a very small distance. The lower harbor for vessels of 400 tons and upwards, called the boso, is very dangerous, and it is open to the sea, and the beach opposite to it is very steep. The large Brazil ships, belonging to merchants of the place, lie here for months at a time, moored with four cables, two ahead and two astern. If precautions are not taken very speedily, the entrance to the harbor of Mosquero will become choked up owing to a breach in the reef, immediately within the small fort, which is called picum. The port has two entrances,

one of which is deeper than the other. The tide does not rise more than five and a half feet. The principal defense of the town consists in the forts Do Buraco. Footnote, this is the name by which the fort is usually distinguished, but I rather think that it is not its proper appellation. End footnote, and Dobrum, both of which are built of stone, and are situated upon the sands opposite to the two entrances. Likewise, there is the small fort of Bon Jesus,

near to the archway and church of the same name. and upon the southeast point of the sandbank of St. Antonio stands the large stone fort of Cinco Pontas, so-called from its pentagonal form. They are said to be all out of order. For what I have stated, it will be seen that the ground upon which the town has been built is most peculiarly circumstanced, and that the manner in which the harbor is formed is equally rare. The town is principally supplied with water, which is brought in canoes either from Olinda or from the river Capibaribe above the influence of the tide. It comes in bulk, and although the greater part of the vessels are decked, still it is usually filthy, as too much care is not taken in their cleanliness. The wells that are sunk in the sand upon which the town stands only affords brackish water. The three compartments of the town, together, contain about 25,000 inhabitants or more, and it is increasing rapidly. New houses are building wherever space can be found. The population consists of white persons, of mulatto and black free people, and of slaves also, of several shades. The reef of rocks, of which I have before spoken, continues along the whole coast between Pernambuco and Marignan. And in some parts it runs at a very

short distance from the shore, and in this case is usually high, remaining uncovered at low water, as at Hesifi, but in other places it recedes from the land and is then generally concealed. It has numberless breaks in it, through which the communication with the sea is laid open. Hesipi is a thriving place, increasing daily in opulence and importance. The prosperity which it enjoys may be in some measure attributed, to the character of its governor and captain-general, Caitano Pinto di Miranda Montenegro, who has ruled the province for the last ten years

with systematic steadiness and uniform prudence. He has made no unnecessary innovations, but he has allowed useful improvements to be introduced. He is not, with hurried, enthusiastic zeal, which often defeats its end, pushed forwards any novelty that struck him at the moment, but he has given his consent and countenance to any proposal backed by respectable persons. He is not interfered and intermeddled with those concerns in which governments have no business,

but he has supported them when they have been once established. I hear speak of commercial regulations and minor improvements in the chief town, and in the smaller settlements of the country. He is affable, and here is the complaint of a peasant or a rich merchant with the same patience. he is just, seldom exercising the power which he possesses of punishing without appeal to the civil magistrate, and when he does enforce it, the crime must be very glaring indeed. He acts upon a system and from principle, and if it is the fate of Brazil to be in the hands of a despotic government, happy compared to its present state, would it in general be if all its rulers resembled him?

I love the place at which I so long resided, and I hope most sincerely that he may not be removed, but that he may continue to dispense to that extensive region the blessings of a mild, forbearing administration. In political consequence, with reference to the Portuguese government, Pernambuco holds the third. Footnote, I am not quite certain whether it is the third or fourth. End footnote. rank amongst the provinces of Brazil. But in a commercial point of view, with reference to Great Britain, I know not whether it should not be named first. Footnote, I sailed from Pernambuco in the very last

convoy of 1815, previous to the peace with the United States, which consisted of 28 vessels. These two ships of war, two prizes to them, and 24 merchant vessels, 14 of which were from Pernambuble. and the remaining ten from Rio de Janeiro and Bayeia. End footnote. Its chief exports are cotton and sugar. The former mostly comes to England, and may be accounted at

80,000 or 90,000 bags annually, averaging 160 pounds weight each bag. The latter is chiefly shipped to Lisbon. Hyde's coconuts, Ipeka Cuania, and a few other drugs, are also occasionally sent from lends, but are exported in trifling quantities. These articles are exchanged for manufactured goods, earthenware, porter, and other articles of

necessity among civilized people, and also of luxury to no very great amount. Two or three ships sail annually for Goa and the East Indies, and the trade to the coast of Africa for slaves is considerable. Several vessels from the United States arrive at Hesifi annually, bring flour of which great quantities are now consumed, furniture for dwelling houses, and other kinds of lumber, in carrying away sugar, molasses, and rum. During the late war between the United States and England, which interrupted this trade, Hesifi was at first somewhat distressed for wheat flour,

but a supply arrived from Hio Grande do Sul, the most southern province of the kingdom of Brazil. A footnote. An edict has lately been issued at Hio de Janeiro by the regent, declaring himself the Prince Regent of the United Kingdoms of Portugal, Brazil, and the two Algaravis, 1816. The quality is good. Footnote. I saw in the year 1814 a very fine root of wheat that had been raised in the Campina Grande of the province of Paraiba, about 30 leagues to the northward of Hesife. End footnote. And I rather think that some coasting vessels will continue to supply the market with this article, notwithstanding the renewed communication with North America.

End of Chapter 1. Chapter 2 of Travels in Brazil, Volume 1 by Henry Costa. The Sleeper Box recording is in the public domain. Chapter 2. Visit to the Governor, the Climate, first ride into the country, residents at a village in the neighborhood of Hesifi, Olinda, Holy Thursday, Good Friday, Easter Sunday, profession of a friar, St. Peter's Day, visit to a Brazilian family, a dance, another visit to Alinda. The numerous arrangements necessary on our arrival prevented us. are making immediately the customary visit to the governor, but on the following morning we proceeded to the palace, situated in a small square, with a guardhouse on one side, at which is stationed

a captain's guard. We were ushered upstairs, remained sometime in an ante chamber with several cadets, and were then desired to enter. We passed the secretary's room, and were shown into a very spacious apartment in which the governor waited to receive us. He is a large handsome man, with quite the manners of a gentleman. We all sat down, and he asked several questions respecting affairs in Europe. I had some English newspapers which I left with him, and in about half an hour we were retired. The first few days after my arrival were spent in delivering my letters of introduction. I soon became acquainted with all the English merchants, who live in a very respectable style, and have done much good in establishing some customs which

the Portuguese have had the sense to follow, preserving at the same time those of their own, which are fitted to the country and climate. As this was the summer season, great numbers of the inhabitants were out of town. They were moved to small cottages at Olinda, and upon the banks of the rivers, to enjoy a pure air, and the amusement and comfort of bathing. during the month's most subject to hot parching weather. The heat is, however, seldom very oppressive. The sea breeze, during the whole year, commences about nine o'clock in the morning and continues until midnight.

When exposed to it, even standing in the sun, the heat is so much alleviated by its influence as to make the person so situated forget for a moment that in the shade he would be cooler. At the time this subsides, the land breeze rises and continues until early in the morning, and the half-hour in the forenoon, which occasionally passes between the one and the other, is the most unpleasant period of the day. In the rainy season, just before the commencement of a heavy shower, the clouds are very dark,

dense, and low. The breeze is suspended for a short time. There is then a sort of expectant stillness, and the weather is very sultry. One afternoon I rode out with several young men to a village in the neighborhood for the purpose of delivering a letter to one of the rich merchants. We passed through the Boa Vista and proceeded along a narrow sannie road, formed by frequent passing and repassing. And along the sides of this are many of the summer residences of the wealthy inhabitants of the town, which are small, neat, whitewashed cottages of one floor.

with gardens in front and at the sides plant it with orange lemon pomegranate and many other kinds of fruit trees some few are enclosed partly by low walls but for the most part they are protected by fences of timber about half-way we came out upon the banks of the capi bariba the view is exceedingly pretty houses trees and gardens on each side the river bends just above and appears lost among the trees The canoes go gently down with the tide, or more laboriously forcing their way up against it, formed a delightful prospect. The river is here rather narrower than the Thames at Richmond. Along the sides of the road at this spot are several black women selling oranges, other kinds of fruits, and cakes, and canoe men with their long poles, unable to delay bargaining with them for some of their commodities.

This was the first time I had left the town, and I was truly pleased with these first looks of the country of which I had become an inhabitant. We again left the river, continuing along the road, still bordered by cottages of a better or worse appearance, till we reached a small village. Through this we passed, and soon afterwards arrived at the end of our ride. The situation is very picturesque upon the northern bank of the Kapibariba and at the foot of a steep hill clothed with wood. On our arrival at the house, we entered immediately from the road into a hall with a brick floor, of which the doors and windows are very large, so as to leave the front very nearly open. We were received by the lady of the house, and her husband soon appeared.

They were exceedingly civil and ordered sweetmeats to be brought up. out. Our English flat saddles created as much surprise to the people of Pernambuco as those of the Portuguese appeared strange to us. They are high before and behind, which obliges the rider to sit very upright, and the fashion is to be as stiff as possible, and to hold quite perpendicularly a switch of most enormous length. The horses are taught a delightful amble, upon which some of them can be made to perceive with great speed. The river Capibarriba is navigable during the whole year as far as Apipucos, half a leave beyond Montero, the village at which my new acquaintance was now residing. It overflows its banks in the rainy season, oftentimes with great rapidity, as the lands

through which it runs in this part of the country are very low. The floods are somewhat dreaded, as they occasionally extend far and wide. The straws. The hovels upon its banks are often carried away, and the whole neighborhood is laid under water. Canoes have been known to ply between this village and those of Poso da Panela and Casa Forci. A Portuguese friend, with whom I had been acquainted in England, having taken a house at the former of the two last-mentioned places, I agreed to share the expense of it with him, and we immediately removed to it to pass the summer months. The village was quite full, not a hut-remen. remain untenant, and, as occurs in England at watering places, families whose dwellings in town

were spacious and handsome, regardless of inconvenience, came to reside here during the summer in very small cottages. The Poso da Panela contains a chapel, built by subscription, a row of houses running parallel with the river, several washerwomen's huts in front of them, and other dwellings scattered about in all directions. Here are the ceremonial, manners of the town are thrown aside, in exchange for an equal degree of freedom. Our mornings were filled up, either in riding to the Hesifi, or to some other part of the country, or in conversation at the houses of any of the families with whom we were acquainted, in the afternoons and evenings with music, dancing, playing at forfeits, and dining with some of the English merchants, a few of whom

had also removed to this place and in its neighborhood. At many of the Portuguese houses, I feel the card tables occupied at nine o'clock in the morning. When one person rose, another took his place, and thus they were scarcely deserted, except during the heat of the day, when each man either returned to his own home to dine, or, as is much less frequent, was requested to remain and partake with the family. On the last day of this year I was invited to visit Olinda that I might witness the festival of Our Lady of the Mountain. The city is, as I have, have already observed, situated upon a hill, very steep in front of the sea, and declining gradually on the land side. Its first appearance on arriving upon the coast is so beautiful that

the disappointment experienced on entering it is great, but still Olinda has many beauties, and the view from it is magnificent. The streets are paved, but are much out of repair. Many of the houses are low, small, and neglected, and the gardens very little cultivated. Indeed, the place has been deserted for the Hesifé. However, one of the regiments of the line is stationed here. Footnote, this has lately been removed to Hesifi, owing to a report of some plan of revolt amongst the Negroes, which is since proved to be without foundation, 1815. And footnote. It is the residence of the bishop and the side of the ecclesiastical court, the seminary, which is a public college of education, in some convents and fine churches. Therefore, it is by no means desolate, though its general aspect

bespeaks tranquility, regularity, and a degree of neglect. The view to the southward takes in a lake of about three miles in length, of which the surface is covered with weeds and grass, and the opposite banks lined with thick woods and some cottages. The Hesife and the bay behind it, formed by the entrance of the tide extending to olinda but concealed in places by low and thick mangroves are also to be seen olinda covers much ground but contains only four thousand inhabitants at this time the whole city presented a scene of bustle and amusement The church, particularly decorated on this occasion, stands upon the highest point. The assemblage of persons was great. The church was lighted up, and a few individuals of both sexes were kneeling promiscuously in the body of it, but the service was over. This is the season of cheerfulness and gaiety, and we were likewise to have our festival at the

Poso da Panella. These festivals are also preceded by nine evenings of hymising and music, and honor of the Virgin, or the saint whose day is to be thus celebrated. On this occasion, the performance for the Novena, or nine evenings, consisted of a pianoforte played by a lady, the wife of a merchant, and a guitar and some wind instruments, played by several young men of respectability. The vocal music was also executed by the same persons, assisted by some female mulatto slaves belonging to the lady. I was somewhat surprised to hear the airs of country dances and marches, occasionally introduced.

However, on the day of the festival, the performers were professional men, and in the evening fireworks were displayed. Every house in the village was crowded this day with people from all parts. My friend and I had several persons to dinner, but before we had half finished, some of their friends appeared, but without ceremony came in and helped themselves. soon all idea of regularity vanished and things were scrambled for in a short time both of us left our own house and tried to gain admittance to some other but all were in the same condition we were invited to a dance in the evening at which the governor was present and although he is himself desirous of making every person feel at ease still such is the dreadful idea of rank for i know not what else to call it in this country that the behavior of everyone was constrained, and the conversation carried on almost in a whisper. I lost no festivals, and amongst others went to that of Saint Amaro, the healer of wounds,

at whose chapel are sold bits of ribbon as charms, which many individuals of the lower orders of people tie round their naked ankles or their wrists, and preserve until they wear out and drop off. About the commencement of Lent, the villages and the neighborhood are almost entirely deserted by the white people, who returned to town to see the processions customary at this season in Catholic countries. The rains usually begin about the end of March. I did not leave the Poso de Ponella until the very last, but in the end found the place dull and followed the rest. On Holy Thursday, accompanied by two of my countrymen, I sallied forth at three o'clock to see the churches,

which are, on this occasion, lighted up and highly ornamented. The whole town was in motion. The females, too, both high and low, were this afternoon parading the streets on foot, contrary to their usual custom. Many of them were dressed in silks of different colors, and covered with gold chains and other trinkets, a general muster being made of all the finery that could be collected. The blaze in some of the churches from great numbers of wax tapers was prodigious. The object apparently aimed at was the production of the greatest quantity of light, as in some instances mirrors were fixed behind the tapers. The middle of the body of these churches is completely open. There are no pews. Note distinction of places. The principal chapel is

invariably at the opposite end of the chief entrance. proceeds from the church and is narrower. This part is appropriated to the officiating priests and is railed in from the body of the church. The females, as they enter, whether white or of color, place themselves as near to the rails as they can, squatting down upon the floor of the large open space in the center. The men stand along either side of the body of the church, a narrow slip being in most cases railed off lengthwise, or they remain near to the enter. And they remain near to the entrance, behind the women, but every female of whatever rank or color is first accommodated. On the following day, Good Friday, the decorations of the church, the dress of the women,

and even the manner of both sexes, was changed. All was dismal. In the morning I went with the same gentleman to the church of the Sacramento to witness a representation of our Savior's descent from the cross. We entered the church by a side door. It was much crowded, and the difficulty of getting in was considerable. An enormous curtain hung from the ceiling, excluding from the site the whole of the principal chapel. In the Italian missionary friar of the Pena convent, with a long beard and dressed in a thick, dark brown cloth habit, was in the pulpit, and about to commence an extemporized sermon. after an exordium of some length adapted to the day, he cried out, behold him. The curtain immediately dropped and discovered an enormous cross, with a full-size wooden image of

our Savior, exceedingly well carved and painted, and around in a number of angels, represented by several young persons, all finely decked out, in each bearing a large pair of outstretched wings made of gauze. A man dressed in a bob wig and a pea-green robe as St. John, and a female kneeling at the foot of the cross as the Magdalene, whose character, as I was informed, seemingly that nothing might be wanting, was not the most pure. The friar continued with much vehemence and much action. His narrative of the crucifixion and after some minutes again cried out, behold they take him down when four men habited in imitation of roman soldiers stepped forwards the countenances of these persons were in part concealed by black crape two of them ascended ladders placed on each side of the cross and one took down the board bearing the letters i n r i then was removed the crown of thorns, and a white cloth was put over, and pressed down upon the head, which was soon taken off and shown to the people, stained with the circular mark of the crown and blood,

this done, the nails which transfixed the hands, were by degrees knocked out, and this produced a violent beating of breasts among the female part of the congregation. A long white linen bandage was next passed under each armpit of the image, The nail which secure the feet was removed. The figure was let down very gently, and was carefully wrapped up in a white sheet. All this was done by word of command from the preacher. The sermon was then quickly brought to a conclusion, and we left the church. I was quite amazed. I had heard of something of this kind was to be done, but I had no idea the extent to which the representation would be carried.

On Saturday morning we were saluted with the bellowing of cattle, the grunting of pigs and the cries of the Negro slaves with baskets of fowls of several kinds for sale. These were to be devoured after the ensuing midnight, and many families, whereof their long abstinence, impatiently awaited the striking of the clocks, as a signal for the commencement of hostile operations, without mercy or scruple upon turkeys, pigs, and all the rest of the miserable tribes which had been laid down as the lawful victims of our carnivorous nature. On Easter Sunday I was invited by a physician to dine with him and to attend the christening of one of his grandchildren. At dinner the party was small.

The dishes were served up two at a time, to the number of ten or twelve, of all of which I was obliged to taste. From the table we adjourned to the church, about four o'clock, were several persons likewise invited, waited for us. The ceremony was performed by a friar, and each guest held a wax taper, forming a semi-circle towards the altar, from whence we returned to the old gentleman's house to supper. I met here, among others, belonging to the same convent, the friar who preached the crucifixion sermon. The members of this convent are all Italians and missionaries, but as no reinforcement has for a length of time come out from Europe. Many few now remain. A long table was laid out, loaded with victuals. Several ladies were present, notwithstanding which enormous quantities of wine were drank, till the whole company began to be riotous, but still the ladies did not move.

At last no order was left among them. Bottles and glasses were overturned and broken and the vehement wishes expressed for the prosperity of the whole family of our host, both old and young. When in the midst of this I escaped about nine o'clock, accompanied by a Franciscan friar. We had a journey in contemplation for the next day and thought at high time to get away. Parties of this kind are not frequent, and in a general way these people live. in a very quiet manner. The old doctor is a native of Lisbon and a great friend to Englishman. He was young at the time of the great earthquake and says he shall never forget that he was in part clothed from the necessary sent out by the British government for the assistance of the Portuguese

after that dreadful calamity. On the following afternoon, the friar, myself and a servant, proceeded to Iguarassou, a small town distant from Hesif. seven leagues, for the purpose of witnessing the entrance of a novice into the order of St. Francis. We arrived about nine o'clock at night at the gates of the convent. The friar rang the bell three times, as a signal of the arrival of one of the order. A lay brother came, and asked who it was that demanded admittance. He was answered that it was Brother Joseph from the convent of Hesifi, accompanied by a friend. The porter shut the gates again, but soon return, saying that the guardian, the name given to the

principal of a Franciscan convent, allowed us to enter. We were conducted up a flight of steps into a long corridor, the end of which sat the guardian, to whom we were introduced. He directed us to the brother who had the management of the accommodations for visitors. This man placed us under the his special care of Frey Luis, who took us to his cell. Supper was served up, upon which the guardian came in, helped us once round to wine, and made many apologies for the badness of his cook, and also excuses for the want of ingredients at this distance from his Sifi. The convents of St. Francis are all built exactly upon the same plan, in the form of a

quadrangle, one side of which is appropriate to the church, and the remaining three cells and other purposes. The former are above, and to be entered from a gallery which runs round the whole building. The beds with which the friars supplied us were hard, but very acceptable after our ride. The ceremony to be performed the ensuing morning collected great numbers of persons from all quarters, as it is now very rare, formerly of every family, at least one member was a friar, but now this is not the custom. Children are brought up to trade, to the army, to anything rather than a monastic life, which is fast losing its reputation. None of the convents are full, and some of them are nearly without inhabitants. Footnote, a Portuguese gentleman

once observed to me that in France and other countries many clever men had written and spoken strongly, and for a considerable length of time against this way of life, and they at last even affected their purpose, with much difficulty. But he added, in Pernambuco, such as the conduct of the friars, that no writing and no speaking is necessary to bring them into disrepute, and footnote. Early in the morning the church was lighted up, and about ten o'clock the family of the person about to take the vows, arrived to occupy the seats prepared for them. Mass was then said,

and a sermon preached. About eleven o'clock, the novice, a young man of sixteen years of age, entered the principal chapel by a side door, walking between two brothers, with a large cross in his hands, and dressed in a long dark blue robe. There was then much chanting,

after which he knelt down opposite to the guardian, received the usual admonitions, was asked several questions relating to his belief in the doctrines of the church and then made the separate vows of defending his religion of celibacy and others of minor importance the guardian then dressed him in the habit of the order made a very thick rough dark-brown cloth which before lay stretched upon the ground in front of the altar covered with flowers this being done the young man embraced all the brothers present took leave of his relations and left the church Many of the friars were laughing during the ceremony and were particularly amused at the Gautian accidentally saying, Brother, don't be ashamed. Footnote. Irmao, no obtain a vergonia.

End footnote, owing to the young man being much abashed. A visitor who stood near to me in the gallery, from which there are windows into the church, said in a low voice to be heard only by those immediately around him, see your chief himself thus advises him to put shame aside which unfortunately you are all too much inclined to do at this the friars who were within hearing all laughed great part of the community and many other persons dined with the father of the young friar and i am on the rest there was much eating much drinking and much confusion in the evening fireworks were displayed which ended by a transparency representing a novice receiving the benediction of his guardian. Was determined that we should return to Hesifah this night, and that the journey was to be commenced as soon as the moon rose.

The party consisted of five friars, several laymen, beside myself, all on horseback, some palakians with ladies, and a number of negroes to carry them. We sallied forth about midnight. The moon was bright, and the sky quite clear. The scene was very strange, the road made in place. abrupt turns, so as to give those who were rather in advance on looking back a view of the whole procession at times appearing and at times concealed among the trees.

Of this the friars formed an extraordinary part in their robes tucked up around the waist and tied with the long yellow cord of flagellation and with their enormous white hats. At Alinda several persons remained, and the rest arrived at Hesifi about seven o'clock in the morning. on the tenth of may i had a sudden attack of fever which was accompanied with delirium however with the assistance of a medical man the disorder subsided in the course of forty-eight hours but it left me in a very weak state from which i was some time in recovering these fevers are well known in the country but are not common and in general are preceded for some days by ague i can only account for this attack from the country from the first of the country from a very common and in general are preceded for some days by ague i can only account for this attack from having suffered the window of my room which had a western aspect to remain open during the night and the lambrise which rises about twelve o'clock is not accounted wholesome A young Englishman insisted upon my removal to his house that I might not remain in the hands of servants. He brought a palakene for this purpose and made me get into it.

With him I remained until my health was completely re-established, was treated by him with a sort of kindness which can only be expected from a very near relation. I dined with a friend on St. Peter's Day, the 29th of June, and in the evening I proposed walking to the church, dedicated to the saint. As usual, the blaze of light was great, the congregation numerous, and the whole affair very brilliant. After the service, we recognized a party of ladies with whom we were acquainted, and one of them requested us to look for a young priest, her son. On making inquiries, we were desired to walk upstairs into a large room over the vestry, in which were several priests

and a table covered with refreshments of many descriptions. The young man came to us and was soon followed by others, who invited us to stay and partake, but we declined and went down to the party we had joined. Some of the priests accompanied us, and persuaded the ladies to ascend, and to have a share of the good things. We were also requested to return, which we did.

There were great quantities of fruit, cakes, sweetmeats, and wards. wine. We met with a most marked attention from these ministers of the Roman Catholic religion. Greater politeness could not have been shown to any person. Many with whom we had not been acquainted before, offered us wine, and requested to be introduced to us. I mentioned the conduct of these men more particularly, as I think it showed a great deal of liberality and a wish to conciliate, and more especially, as there were likely several laymen present of their own names. footnote. In speaking of the priesthood, it must always be recollected that the secular and regular clergy are two different bodies of men, and as distinct in their utility, their knowledge

and their manners as they are in their situation and life. End footnote. About ten o'clock we left the church, and taking one family of our party home, remain with them until a very late hour. We were invited to pay us to our people. We were invited to passed the following Sunday with this family, which consisted of the father and mother, and a son and daughter. They were all Brazilians, and though the young lady had never been from Pernambuco, her manners were easy, and her conversation lively and entertaining. Her complexion was not darker than that of the Portuguese in general. Her eyes inherit black, and her features on the whole good. Her figure small, but well-shaped, though I have seen others handsomer, still this

lady may be accounted a very fair sample of the white Brazilian females, but it is among the women of color that the finest persons are to be found. More life and spirit, more activity of mind and body. They are better fitted to the climate, and the mixed race seems to be its proper inhabitant. Their features, too, are often good, and even the color, which in European climates is disagreeable, appears to appertain to that in which it more naturally exists. But this bar to European ideas of beauty set aside, finer specimens of the human form cannot be found than among the mulatto females whom I have seen. We went to them to breakfast, which was of coffee and cakes. Backgammon and cards were then introduced until dinner-time at two o'clock. This consisted of

great numbers of dishes, placed upon the table without any arrangement, and brought in without any regard to the regularity of courses. We were, as may be supposed, rather surprised at being complimented with pieces of meat from the plates of various persons at the table. I've often met with this custom, particularly amongst families in the interior, and this I now speak of had only resided in Hesifia a short time, but many of the people of the town have other ideas on these matters. Two or three knives only were placed upon the table, which obliged each person to cut all the meat upon his own plate into small pieces and passed the knife to his next neighbor. There was, however, a plentiful supply of silver forks and abundance of plates. Garlic formed one ingredient in almost every dish, and we had a great deal of wine during the dinner.

The moment we finished, everyone rose from the table and removed into another apartment. At eight o'clock, a large party assembled to tea, and we did not take our departure until a very late hour. On our arrival at home, my friend and I sat together, to consider of the transactions of the day, which we had thus passed entirely with a Brazilian family, and both agreed that we had been much amused, and that we had really felt much gratification, saved the business at the dining table. The conversation was trifling but entertaining, There was much wit and sport. The ladies of the house, joined by several others in the evening,

talked a great deal, and would allow of no subject into which they could not enter. It will be observed from what I have described, and from what I have still to mention, that no rule can be laid down for the society of the place in question. Families of equal rank and of equal wealth and importance are often of manners totally different. The fact is that society is undergoing a race. rapid change, not that the people imitate European customs, though these have some effect, but as there is more wealth, more luxuries are required, as there is more education, higher and more polished amusements are sought for. As the mind becomes more enlarged from

intercourse with other nations, and from reading, many customs are seen in a different light, so that the same persons insensibly change, and in a few years ridicule in our disgusted with many of those very habits which they reflect for a moment, they will recollect were practiced but a short time before by themselves. On St. Anne's Day, the 29th of July, two young Englishmen and myself proceeded by invitation to the house of one of the first personages of Pernambuco, a man in place and a planter, possessing three sugarworks in different parts of the country. About ten o'clock in the morning we embarked in a cano'clock, and were pulled and paddled across the bay on the land side of the town.

On our arrival upon the opposite shore, the tide was out, and the mud deep. In fear and trembling of our silks, two of us clung to the backs of the canoe men, who with some difficulty put us down safe on dry land. But the third, who was heavier, for some minutes debated whether to return home was not the better plan. However, he took courage, and was likewise safely conducted through this re-reacted through this region of peril. We then walked up to the house, which covers much ground, and of which the apartments are spacious, and all upon the first floor. The garden was laid out

by this gentleman's father, and the old style of straight walks and trees cut into shapes. A large party was already assembling, as this was the anniversary of the birthday of our hostess, but the females were all ushered into one room, and the men into another. Cards and backers were backgammon, as usual, were the amusements, but there was little of ease and freedom of conversation. At dinner, the ladies all arranged themselves on one side, and the men opposite them. There were victuals of many kinds in great profusion, and much wine was drank. Some of the gentlemen who were intimately acquainted with a family did not sit down at table, but assisted in attending upon the ladies.

After dinner, the whole party adjourned into a large hall, and country-dance, being proposed and agreed to. Fiddlers were introduced, and a little after seven o'clock, about twenty couples commenced and continued this amusement until past two o'clock. Here was the ceremony of the last century in the morning, and in the evening the cheerfulness of an English party the present day. I never partook of one more pleasant. The conversation at times renewed was always genteel, but unceremonious, and I met with several well-educated persons, whose acquaintance I enjoyed during the remainder of my stay at this place. The rains this season had been very slight,

and scarcely ever prevented our rides into the country in the neighborhood, to the distance of six or eight miles. But we never reached beyond the summer dwellings of the inhabitants of Hesifu. The villages are, at this time, very dull, having people of color and negroes as residents almost exclusively. However, as I was fond of the country, I was tempted by the fineness of the weather, to remove entirely to a small cottage in the vicinity, where my time passed away pleasantly, though quietly, and in a manner very barren of events.

There stands a hamlet not far distance from my new residence, called Casa Forte, formerly the side of a sugar plantation, which has been suffered to decay, and now the chapel alone remains to point out the exact position. The dwelling-house of these works is said to have been defended by the Dutch against the Portuguese, who set fire to it for the purpose of obliging their enemies to surrender. A large open piece of ground is pointed out as having been the situation upon which these transactions took place. It is distant from Hesifi about five miles, and the river, Capibaribe, runs about three-quarters of a mile beyond it.

I met with few of the peasants who had any knowledge. of the Pernambucoan war against the Dutch, but I heard this spot more frequently spoken of than any other. Footnote, I think that the Casa Forci and the Cazas de Dona Anna Pais, of which an account is given in the history of Brazil, Volume 2, page 124, distinguish the same place under different names. And footnote. Perhaps if I had more communication with the southern districts of Pernambuco, I should discovered that the war was more vividly remembered there. I had an offer of introduction to another Brazilian family, which I readily accepted, and on the 7th of August I was summoned by my friend to accompany him to Olinda. He had been invited, and liberty had been given to take a friend.

We went in a canoe and were completely wet through on the way, but we walked about the streets of Olinda until we were again dry. The family consisted of an old lady. her two daughters and a son, who was a priest, and one of the professors or masters of the seminary. Several persons of the same class were present, of easy and gentleman-like manners. Some of them proposed dancing, and although they did not join in the amusement, still they were highly pleased to see others entertained in this manner. Our music was a pianoforte, played by one of the professors, who good-humoredly continued until the dancers themselves begged him,

to desist. About midnight we left these pleasant people and returned to the beach. The tide was out, and the canoe upon dry land. We therefore determined to walk. The sand was very heavy, the distance three miles, and after our evening's amusement, this was hard work. I did not attempt this night to go beyond Hesifi to my cottage, but accepted of a mattress at my friend's residence. Three or four families are in the practice of having weekly evening card parties, as was usual in Lisbon. I attended these occasionally, but in them there was no peculiarity of customs. The foregoing pages will, I think, suffice to point out the kind of society to be met with in Pernambuco, but this must be sought for, as the families in which it is to be found are not numerous. Of these very few are in trade.

There are either Portuguese families of which the chief is in office or Brazilian planters who are wealthy and prefer residing in Hesifi or Olinda, or as is frequently the case, a son or brother belonging to the secular priesthood has imbibed more liberal notions and has acquired a zest for rational society. As may naturally be supposed, the females of a family are always glad to be of more importance, to be treated with respect, to see, and to be seen. The merchants, generally speaking, for there do exist some exceptions, live very much alone. They have been originally from Portugal, have made fortunes in trade, and have married in the country. But most of them still continued to live as if they were not sufficiently wealthy, or at least cannot persuade themselves to alter

their close and retired manner of living. In accepting in the summer months, when sitting upon the steps of their country residences, their families are not to be seen. The gentleman, chiefly by whose kindness I had been introduced and enabled to partake of the pleasantest society of Pernambuco, was among the first British subjects who availed themselves to the free communication between England and Brazil, and he even already observed a considerable change of manners in the highest class of people. The decrease in the price of all articles of dress, the facility of obtaining at a low rate earthenware, cuttlery, and table linen, in fact, the very spur given to the mind by this appearance of a new people among them, the hope of a better state of things that their country was

about to become of more importance, renewed in many persons, ideas which had long-lane dormant, made them wish to show that they had money to expend and that they knew how it should be expend it. Footnote. When the Englishmen, who first established themselves at Hesifi had finished the stock of tea which they had brought with them, they inquired where more could be purchased, and were directed to an apothecary shop. They went and asked simply for tea, when the man wished to know what kind of tea they meant. He at last understood them and said, oh, you want East India tea, Shadha Aindia, thus considering it as he would any other drug. But at the time of which I am now speaking, great quantities are consumed.

End footnote. It was the custom in Pernambuco to uncover when passing a sentinel, or on meeting a guard of soldiers marching through the streets. Soon after the opening of the port to British shipping, three English gentlemen accidentally met a corporal's guard of four or five men, and as they passed each other, one of the latter took off the hat of one of the former, accompanying the action by an approprious expression. The Englishman resented the insult, attacked an absolutely rout at the guard. This dreadful mark of submission to military power was universally refused by every British subject

and has been very much discontinued even by the Portuguese. Another annoyance to these visitors was the usual respect paid to the sacrament, carried with much pomp and ceremony to persons dangerously ill. It was expected that everyone by whom it chanced to pass should not, kneel and continue in that posture until it was out of sight. Here Englishmen, in some degree, conformed in proper deference to the religion of the country, but the necessity of this also is wearing off. Footnote. I once heard that a person who had been in England and had returned to Pernambuco observed that the two things which surprised him the most in the country were that the

people did not die and that the children spoke English. He was asked his reason for supposing that this first wonder was correct, to which he answered that he never had seen the sacrament taken to the sick. Close footnote. End of Chapter 2. Chapter 3 of Travels in Brazil, Volume 1 by Henry Koster. This Librevox recording is in the public domain. Chapter 3.

The government, the taxes, the public institutions, criminals, prisons, military establishments, the island of Fernando de Noronia. The captaincy's general or provinces of the first rank in Brazil, of which Pernambuco is one, are governed by captains general or governors, who are appointed for three years. At the end of this period, the same person is continued or not at the option of the supreme government. They are in fact absolute in power, but before the person who has been nominated to one of these places can exercise any of its functions, is under the necessity of presenting his credentials to the Senado da Camara, the chamber or municipality of the principal town. This is formed a persons of respectability in the place.

The governor has the supreme and sole command of the military force. The civil and criminal causes are discussed before and determined by the Ovidor, and and Juice Giforra, the two chief judicial officers, whose duties are somewhat similar, but the former is the superior in rank. They are appointed for three years, and the term may be renewed. Footnote, a Jewish conservador, judge-conservator of the British nation, has been appointed for Pernambuco, but at the period of my departure from Hesifi, he was not arrived. Soon after the commencement of a direct commercial intercourse with Great Britain, a vice-council was appointed for Pernambuco by the Council General at Hio de Janeiro. This person was superseded

by a council sent out direct from England who was subject to the Council General of Brazil, but the place is disposed of by the government at home. And footnote. It is in these departments of the government that the opportunities of amassing large fortunes are most numerous, and certain it is that some individuals take advantage of them in a manner which renders justice but a name. The governor can determine in a criminal cause without appeal, but if he pleases, he refers it to the competent judge. The Procurador da Corroa, attorney general, is an officer of considerable weight. The intendancy da Marinea, port admiral, is likewise consulted on matters of first importance, as are also the Escrivum da Fazenda

Heao, chief of the treasury, and the Jewist da Alfandega, comptroller of the customs. The seven officers form the Junta or Council, which occasionally meets to arrange and decide upon the affairs of the captaincy to which they belong. The ecclesiastical government is scarcely connected with that above many. and is administered by a bishop and a dean and chapter, with his vicar general, etc. The governor cannot even appoint a chaplain to the island of Fernando de Noronia, one of the dependencies of Pernambuco, but acquaints the bishop that a priest is wanted, who then nominates one for the place. The number of civil and military officers is enormous.

Inspector is innumerable, colonels without end, devoid of any officer. objects to inspect without any regiments to command, judges to manage each trifling department of which the duties might all be done by two or three persons. Thus salaries are augmented, the people are oppressed, but the state is not benefited. Taxes are laid where they fall heavy upon the lower class, and none are levied where they could well be born. A tenth is raised in kind upon cattle, poultry and agriculture, and even upon salt. This in former times appertained, as in other Christian countries, to the clergy. Footnote, when Brazil was in its infancy, the clergy could not subsist upon their tithes, and therefore petitioned the government of Portugal to pay them a certain stipend and receive the

tents for its own account. This was accepted, but now that the tents have increased in value twenty-fold, the government still pays to the vickers the same stipends. The clergy of the present day bitterly complain of the agreement made by those to whom they have seceded. And footnote. All the taxes are farmed to the highest bidders, and this among the rest. They are parceled out in extensive districts, and are contracted for at a reasonable rate. But the contractors again dispose of their shares in small portions. These are again retailed to other persons, and as a profit is obtained by each transfer,

the people must be oppressed, that these men may satisfy those above them and enrich themselves. The system is in itself bad, but is rendered still heavier by this division of the spoil. The tenth of cattle, as I have already said, is levied in kind upon the estates in the interior of the country, and besides this, a duty of 320 haze per Ahoba of 32 pounds is paid upon the meat at the shambles, which amounts to about 25%. Fish pays the tenth and afterwards a 15th. Every transfer of immovable property is subject to a duty of 10%, and movables to 5%. Besides these, there are many other taxes of minor importance, rum both for exportation and home consumption pays a duty of 80 hayes for canada,

which is sometimes a fourth of its value, but may be reckoned as from 15 to 20%. Footnote. A great confusion exists in Brazil respecting measures. Every captaincy has its own, agreeing neither with those of its neighbors nor with the measures of Portugal, though the same names are used invariably. Thus a canada and Alquire in Pernambuco represents a much greater quantity than the same denominations in Portugal and less than in some of the other provinces of Brazil. End footnote. Cotton pays the tenth, and is again taxed at the moment of exportation 600 haze per Ahoba of 32 pounds or about one and a quarter cents per pound.

Nothing can be more injudicious than this double-duty. upon the chief article of exportation from that country to Europe. The duties at the Custom House are 15%, upon imports of which the valuation is left in some measure to the merchant to whom the property belongs. Here, I think, 10% more might be raised without being felt. A tax is paid at Pernambuco for alighting the streets of the Hio de Janeiro, whilst those of Hesifi remain in total darkness.

Now, although the expenses of the provincial governments are great and absorb a very considerable proportion of the receipts, owing to the number of officers employed in every department, still the salaries of each are, in most instances, much too small to afford a comfortable subsistence. Consequently, peculation, bribery, and other crimes of the same description are to be looked for, and they become so frequent as to escape all punishment or even notice, though there are some men whose character is without reproach. The governor of Pernambuco receives a salary of four million haze, or about one thousand pounds per annum. Can this be supposed to be sufficient for a man in his responsible situation, even in a country in which articles of food are cheap? His honor, however,

is unimpeached, not one instance did I ever hear mentioned of improper conduct in him. But the temptation and the opportunities of amassing money are very great, and few are the persons who can resist them. The only manufacturing and Hesifi of any importance is that of gold and silver trinkets of every description, and of gold lace. But the quantities made of either are only sufficient for the demand of the place. The women employ themselves very generally and making thread lace and an embroidery, but the manufacturer of these articles is not sufficiently extensive to allow of exportation. Footnote, a patent has been obtained and a manufacturing established upon a large scale for making cordage from the outward rind of the cocoa nut.

Ropes of this description are, I believe, much used in the East Indies. End footnote. The public institutions are not many, but of those that exist, some are excellent. The seminary at Olinda for the education of young persons is well-conducted, and many of its professors are persons of knowledge and of liberality. It is intended principally to prepare the students for the church as secular priests, and therefore all of them were a black gown and a cap of a peculiar form. But it is a very It is not necessary that they should ultimately take orders. Free schools are also established in most of the small towns in the country, in some of which the Latin language is taught,

but the major part are adapted only to give instruction and reading, writing, and arithmetic. Neither in these nor in the seminary is any expense incurred by the pupils. The Lazarus Hospital is neglected, but patients are admitted. The other establishments for the sick are miserable. Strange it is that fine churches should be built whilst many individuals are suffered to perish from one of a suitable building under which to shelter them. But the best institution of which Pernambuco has to boast, in common with the mother country, is the Hoda dos Injitados. Infants of doubtful birth are received, taking care of, reared and provided for, Every person knows what the wheel of a convent is. A cylindrical box open on one side which is

fixed in the wall and turns upon a pivot. Near to this is placed a bell to be wrong when anything is put into the box, that the inhabitants of the convent may know when it should be turned. One of these wheels stands ready night and day to receive the child. The bell is wrong and the box turns. Thus, the lives of many are saved, thus numbers are spared from shame. Never let it be imagined that births of a secret nature will be more frequent from the consideration that this institution exists, but it removes all motives for unnatural conduct in a mother, and it may sometimes produce reform of future conduct by the facility afforded of concealing what has already passed.

The friars are not numerous, though they are far too much so. These useless beings amount to about 150 in number at Olinda, Hesifi, Iguarazul, and Parraiba. Footnote, an old woman applied at the gates of a convent late one evening and told the porter, an old friar, who was quite blind, that she wished one of the brothers to go with her for the purpose of confessing a sick person, the old man with perfect unconcern gave her to understand that they were all out adding but if you will go to the garden gate and wait there some of them will soon be creeping in the younger members of the franciscan order enjoy very much the duty of going out to beg as opportunities offer of amusing themselves a guardian was chosen at parraipa some years ago who examined the chest in which the money belonged to the community was kept, and on finding a considerable sum in it gave orders that no one should go out

to beg. He was a conscientious man, and said that, as they had already enough, the people must not be importuned for more until what they possessed was finished. He kept the whole community within the walls of the convent for the term of two or three years, for which each guardian is appointed. On another occasion, the friars of a Franciscan convent chose for the guardian a young man whose life had been very irregularly spent in anything rather than the duties of his calling under the idea that during the continuance of his guardianship

they would lead a merry life, that very little attention would be paid to the rules and regulations of the order. But they were mistaken. He changed his habits as soon as he found himself at their head. the gates were rigidly closed at the proper hour and according to the old and vulgar proverb of set a thief etc the duties of the convent were performed with much greater austerity than before and footnote but there are no nuns in the province though of these establishments called hecoliamentos or retreats three exist these are directed by elderly females who have not taken any vows and who educate young persons of their own sex and receive individuals whose conduct has been incorrect,

but whose characters are not notorious, and who are placed here by the relations to prevent further shame. The number of churches, chapels, and niches, and the streets for saints is quite preposterous. To these are attached a multitude of religious lay brotherhoods, of which the members are merchants, and other persons in trade, and even some are composed of mulatto and black free people. Some of these continually beg for a supply of wax and other articles to be consumed in honor of their patron. Almost every day in the year, passengers are importuned in the streets and the inhabitants in their houses by some of these people and among others by the lazy Franciscan friars. A Portuguese gentleman refused to give money for any of these purposes, but after each application,

threw in a bag, placed apart for the purpose, a five-hays coin, the smallest in use, and in value the third part of a penny. At the end of a twelve-month, he counted his five-hase pieces and found that they amounted to thirty thousand haze, or about eight pounds, six shillings. He then applied to the vicar of his parish, requesting him to name some distressed person to which he should give the money. The Holy Office, or Inquisition, has never had an establishment in Brazil, but several priests resided in Pernambuco, employed as its familiars, and sometimes persons judged amenable to this most horrid tribunal, have been sent under confinement to Lisbon. However, the ninth article of the Treaty of Friendship and Alliance, between the crowns of England,

and Portugal, signed at the Hio de Janeiro in 1810, as completely determined that the power of the Inquisition shall not be recognized in Brazil. Will appear surprising to English persons that in a place so large as Hesifi, there should be no printing press or bookseller. At the convent of the Madrid de Dios are sold almanacs, prints, and histories

of the Virgin and saints, and other productions of the same discreet. but a very limited size, printed at Lisbon. The post office is conducted in a very irregular manner. The letters from England are usually delivered at the House of the Merchant to whom the ship which conveyed them is consigned, or at the office of the British Council. There is no established means of forwarding letters to any part of the interior of the country, nor along the coast, so that the post office merely receives the letter-bags,

which are brought by the small vessels that trade with other ports along this coast, and sends the bags from Pernambuco by the same conveyances. And as there is not any regular delivery of letters, each person must inquire for his own at the office. When the commerce of Brazil was trifling, compared to its present state, a post office managed in this manner was sufficient, but in consequence of the increased activity of the trade along the coast,

and with Europe, some attention ought to be given to the subject to facilitate communication. There is a theater at Hesifian which are performed Portuguese farces, but the establishment is most wretchedly conducted. The Botanic Garden at Olinda is one of these institutions which have arisen from the removal of the court to South America. It is intended as a nursery for exotic plants, from whence they are to be distributed, to those persons who are willing and capable of rearing them. Thus the breadfruit tree has been introduced, the black pepper plant, the large Otahiton cane, and several others. A much fear,

however, that the zeal shown at the commencement as somewhat cool. A botanist has been appointed with an adequate salary, is a Frenchman who had resided at K.N. And with this choice, many persons were much dissatisfied, as it was thought, and with good reason, that a Portuguese subject might have been found, quite capable of taking the management of the garden. The sight of all others the most offensive to an Englishman is that of the criminals who perform the menial offices of the palace, the barracks, the prisons, and other public buildings. They are chained in couples, and each couple is followed by a soldier, armed with a bayonet. They are allowed to stop at the shops to obtain any trifle which they wish to purchase, and it is disgusting to see with

what unconcern the fellows bear this most disgraceful situation, laughing and talking, as they go along to each other, to their acquaintance whom they may chance to meet, and to the soldier who follows them as a guard. Footnote, an anecdote was related to me of one of these couples, which occurred some years ago under a former governor. A solitary passenger between Olinda and Hesifi witnessed part of the following scene, and the remainder was described by one of the actors in it. A couple of criminals, of which one was a white man, and the other a negro, accompanied by their guard, were walking over the sands to reach a ford and crossed the river at its narrowest part. Three horsemen, one of whom led a fourth horse,

saddled and bridled, rode up and one of them knocked the soldier down. whilst the white man of the chained couple urged his companion to go with him to the lead horse and mount up behind him. This the black man refused to do, when one of the horsemen, who seemed to direct the others, called out, cut the fellow's leg off. The criminals are secured to each other by the ankle. The negro now agreed, and both mounted the horse, and the whole party galloped away, first binding the soldier hand and foot. They passed through Olinda at full speed, and when they had arrived at some distance, a large while was made use of, and the negro was set down with all the chains and bolts. The party then proceeded and were never afterwards heard of. It was imagined that the man who had made his escape in this manner was the relation of a rich person

in the interior, who had either committed some crime or had been thus unjustly punished. End footnote. The prisons are in a very bad state, little as attention being paid to the situation of their inhabitants. Executions are rare at Pernambuco. The most usual punishment inflicted, even for crimes of the first magnitude, is transportation to the coast of Africa. White persons must be removed for trial to Bayeia, for crimes of which the punishment is death. Even to pass sentence of death upon a man of color or a negro, several judicial officers must be present. There does not exist here. There does not exist here. a regular police. When an arrest is to be affected in Hesifi or its neighborhood, two officers

of justice are accompanied by soldiers, from one or other of the regiments of the line for this purpose. A honda or patrol, consisting of soldiers, parades the streets during the night at stated periods, but it is not of much service to the town. Hesipi and its vicinity were formerly in a very tranquil state, owing to the exertions of one individual. He was sergeant in the regiment of Hesipi, a courageous man, whose activity of mind and body had had no field upon which to act, until he was employed in the arduous task of apprehending criminals, and at last he received special orders from the governor for patrolling the streets of Hesipi, Olinda, and the villages around them. He and his followers were much dreaded, but at his death no one's

stepped into his place. Footnote. Lately, a cadet has come forward and has taken the direction of these matters. He has apprehended several persons of infamous characters, but of determined courage he has done much good, risking his life under circumstances of great danger, and even to extreme rashness has he been carried by his zeal. This young man well deserves promotion,

that thus the police should fall into the hands of inferior office, officers shows the irregular footing upon which it stands. 1814. And footnote. The military establishment is much neglected. The regular troops consist of two regiments of infantry, which ought to form together a body of 2,500 men. But they seldom collect more effectiveness than 600,

so that sufficient numbers can scarcely be mustered to do the duty of the town of a Sifi of Olenna. and the forts. Their pay is less than two and three-quarters cents per day, and a portion of the flower of the Mangioch weekly, and their clothing is afforded to them very irregularly. From their miserable pay, rather more than one farthing per day, is held back for a religious purpose. Recruits are made of some of the worst individuals in the province. This mode of recruiting and their most wretched pay account completely for the depreciated character of the soldiers of the line.

Footnote. The arrival of another colonel to the regiment of Hesifi and the increase of activity in the officers has altered its appearance much for the better. The regiment of Olinda or of artillery has been also much improved by the attention of its colonel and the entrance into it of several well-educated Brazilian officers of the first families. And footnote. They are formed chiefly of Brazilians and people of color. Besides these regiments, the militia of the town sometimes do duty without pay, and these make but a sorry show. The militia regiments, commanded by Milato and Black officers,

informed entirely of men of these casks, are very superior in appearance, but these I shall have again an opportunity of mentioning. There is one political arrangement of this province, which, above all others, cries aloud for alteration. It is a glaring, self-evident evil. It is a disgrace upon the government which suffers its existence. I speak of the small island of Fernando de Noronia.

To this spot are transported for a number of years or for life. A great number of male criminals. No females are permitted to visit the island. The garrison consisting of about 120 men is relieved yearly. It is a very difficult matter to obtain a priest to serve for a twelve-month as chaplain in the island. When the bishop is applied to by the governor for a person of this calling, he sends some of his ecclesiastical officers in search of one. The persons of the profession, who are liable to be sent,

conceal themselves, and the matter usually concludes by a young priest being literally pressed into the service. The vessel employed between Hesifi and the service. island, visits it twice the same period, and carries provisions, clothing, and other articles to the miserable beings who are compelled to remain there, and for the troops. I have conversed with persons who have resided upon it, and the accounts I have heard of the enormities committed there are most horrible. Crimes punished capitally or severely in civilized states, or which at least are held in general abhorrence, are here practiced, talked of, publicly acknowledged, without shame and without remorse.

Strange it is that the dreadful state of this place should have so long escaped the notice of the Supreme Government of Brazil. But the evil ends not here. The individuals who return to Pernambuco cannot shake off the remembrance of crimes which have become familiar to them. The powers, likewise, conceded to the commoner whose will is absolute, have oftentimes proved too great for due performance. Punishment seldom follows. The most wanton tyranny may be practiced almost without fear of retribution. The climate of the island is good, and the small portion of it admitting of cultivation I have understood, from competent authority, to be of extraordinary fertility. It does not, however, afford any shelter for shipping. The supineness of the ancient system

upon which Brazil was ruled is still too apparent throughout. But the removal of the sovereign to that country has roused many persons who had been long influenced by habits of indolence, and has increased the activity of others who have impatiently awaited a field for its display. The Brazilians feel of more importance. Their native Sorenug is law to the mother country. Their spirit long kept under severe subjection to ancient colonial rules and regulations. has now had some opportunities of showing itself, as prove that, though of long-suffering and of patient

endurance, it does exist, and that if its possessors are not treated as men, instead of children, it will break forth and rend asunder those shackles to which they have forbearingly submitted. I hope, however, most sincerely that the Supreme Government may see the necessity of reformation, and that the people will not expect too much, but, consider that many hardships are preferable to a generation of bloodshed, confusion, and misery. Freedom of communication with other nations has already been of service to the country, and the benefits which it imparts are daily augmenting. The shoot from our European continent will ultimately increase,

and a plant will spring up infinitely more important than the branch from which it proceeded, it, and though the season of this maturity is far distant, yet the rapidity of its advance or tardiness of its growth greatly depends upon the fostering care or indifferent negligence of its rulers. Still, whatever the conduct of these may be, its extent, its fertility, and other numerous advantages must in the course of time give to it that rank which it has a right to claim among the great nations of the world. End of Chapter 3. Chapter 4 of Travels in Brazil, Volume 1 by Henry Koster. This leap provokes recording as in the public domain.

Chapter 4. Journey to Guyana. Journey from Guyana to Parababa and back to Guyana. I'd much desired to perform some considerable journey into the less populous and less cultivated part of the country. The chief engineer officer of Pernambuco had intended to visit all the fortresses within his extensive district, and had kindly promised to permit me to accompany him. But unfortunately, his projected journey was delayed from some cause connected with his place until the following season. As I did not know how soon I might be under the necessity of returning to England, I could not postpone my views for this length of time, therefore made inquiries among my friends and acquaintance, and discovered that the brother of a gentleman, resident at Gleana, was about to set off for that place,

and would probably from thence proceed further into the country, with some object and view connected with trade. It was my intention to advance as far as Seira. I applied to the governor for a passport, which was a immediately granted without any difficulty. On the afternoon of the 19th of October, 1810, some of my English friends accompanied me to my cottage at the Cruz Das Alamos, that they might be present at my departure in the course of the ensuing night. Senor Feliz, my companion, arrived in the evening, bringing with him his black guide, a freeman. Preparations were made for proceeding upon our journey, and about one o'clock as the moon rose we sallied forth. Senor Feliz, myself and my English servant, John, on horseback, armed with swords and pistols.

The black guide also on horseback, without saddle or bridle, carrying a blunderbuss, and driving on before him a baggage horse with a little mulatto boy mounted between the panneers. My English friends cheered us as we left the cruise and remained in my quarters, the command of which I had given up to one of them during my absence. That part of the road which we traversed by moonlight I had already passed over a short time before, and subsequently from frequent traveling my acquaintance with it was such that I might have become a guide upon it. We rode along a sandy path for three-quarters of a league, till we began to begin to, ascend a steep hill, of which the sides and the flat summit are covered with large trees and thick brushwood growing beneath them. The hamlet of Beberipe stands at the foot of the

Corresponding Declivity, to this place several families resort in the summer, and a small rivulet runs through it, of which the water is most beautifully clear. Half a league beyond Beberipe we crossed another rivulet, and immediately afterwards commenced our ascent, and, we advanced our ascent, of the hill of Gebrassou, which is in most parts very steep and very narrow, being closed on one side by a precipice, and on the other by slope and ground covered with wood. This ridge of hill is quite flat along the top, and the path continues for half a league, between lofty trees and impenetrable brushwood. We descended into the long and narrow valley of Meruera, through which a rivulet runs, of which the water never fails. The hills on each side are thickly clothed with wood,

and in the valley are scattered several cottages, banana gardens, and Mangiak lands, with a large enclosed piece of ground in which cattle graze. The ascent on the opposite side of this beautiful veil is very steep. The path along the summit of the ridge is similar to that over which we had traveled. We soon again descended, and on our arrival at the bottom, entered the long, straggling village of Parachiba, with Mangioclands and plantain and tobacco gardens intermixed with the houses. The inhabitants are mostly laboring free persons, white, mulatto, and black. The houses are built on each side of the road at intervals for the distance of one mile. A rivulet runs through it, which in the rainy season often overflows its banks to a considerable distance on each side.

Beyond this village, the road is comparatively flat, but is still diversified by unequal small elevations. Several sugar works are seen, and great numbers of small cottages. The passing of the country, people with loaded horses, carrying cotton, hides, and other articles, the produce of the country, and returning with many kinds of wares, salt meat, and fish from Hesifi may almost be called continual. The town of Iguara Sioux, which we now entered, has already been mentioned in a former chapter. It is one of the oldest settlements upon this part of the coast, and stands at the distance of two leagues from the sea upon the banks of a creek. The woods that border the paths or roads are in part so thick and close as to be impassable, even to a man on foot, unless he carries in his hand a bill-hook or hatchet to assist in breaking through the road.

the numberless obstacles which opposes progress. Of these, the most formidable is the seapol, a plant consisting of long and flexible shoots which twist themselves around the trees, and as some of the sprouts, which have not yet fixed upon any branch, are moved to and fro by the wind, they catch upon a neighboring tree, and as the operation continues for many years undisturbed, a kind of network is made of irregular form, but difficult to pass through. Of this plant, there are several varieties. That which bears the name of Sipo Cururu is in the highest estimation from its superior size and strength, and likewise from its great flexibility. Several kinds of Sipo are used as cordage in making fences and for many other purposes. Iguanassou is partly situated upon

a hill, and partly in the plain below, where a rivulet runs, and a stone bridge has been built, as the tide reaches this spot and would render the communication difficult. Footnote. The lower part of the town is the site of the siege, which in its infancy, the settlement sustained against the savages, as is related by Hanstad, the first traveler who wrote any account of Brazil. History of Brazil, Volume 1, page 46. End footnote. The place plainly denotes that it has enjoyed greater prosperity than it at present has to boast of. Many of the houses are of two stories, but they are neglected, and some of the small cottages are in decay and ruin. These streets are paved, but are much out of repair.

And grass grows in many of them. It contains. It contains. In several churches, one convent and a haecolumento or retreat for females, a town hall and prison. Its affluence proceeded formally from the weekly cattle fair, which was held upon a plain in the vicinity, but this is now for some years past been removed to the neighborhood of Guyana. Iguarassou has many white inhabitants, several shops, a good surgeon, who was educated in Lisbon, and it is the resort of the planters to the distance of several leagues for the embarkation of their sugar chests and for the purchase of some articles of necessity. The town contains about 800 inhabitants, reckoning the scattered cottages in the outskirts. The view from the Tower of the Principal Church is said to be extensive and grand.

The only regular inn of which the country has to boast is established here, for the convenience of passengers between Hesifi and Guyana. And at this we intended to have stopped, had not the early hour, which we reached it, tempted us to push forwards before the sun became more powerful. Footnote, I'd frequent opportunities afterwards of resting at this inn. On one of these I happened to ask for salt, which is not usually placed upon the table. The master of the house and the customary familiar manner of the country expressed his surprise at the additional quantity of salt which I wished for, but it was brought to me and nothing further was said. This occurred in the morning soon after our arrival at the place. At dinner, to our dismay, the soup and almost all the other dishes were so plentifully supplied with the unfortunate ingredient as to be scarcely eatable. We complained of this to the master who answered why I thought you liked salt.

Quide that er amigos de sao. End footnote. The road continues flat in sandy, and two leagues beyond Iguarazu, we enter the village of Pazmago, which is built in the form of a square. It consists of a church and a number of cottages, most of mean appearance, containing from 300 to 400 inhabitants. We proceeded through it, crossed the most considerable stream we had yet seen this day, called Araripe, and entered the enclosed field attached to the ingenue or sugarworks of Araripet,

Gibaschu, belonging to a Portuguese. We expected to have obtained a dinner from this good man, but after considerable delay to the great discomfort of our stomachs. We understood from our host that his intended hospitality would not be in readiness till the day would have been too much broken into by the additional delay. Therefore we again mounted our horses about two o'clock, with a broiling sun, ascended another steep hill, past several sugar-works and cottages, and crossed several rivulets, traversing a most delightful country.

We rode through the hamlets of Boo and Fontaigneas at the L'Ineux at the L'Eanis at the form of which there is a chapel. From the latter, the road is chiefly over a sandy plain, almost without wood, until the ingenial of Boutjeri is discovered with its field of grass and woods around. Immediately beyond it is to be forted the river of Guyana, influenced by the tide as far as this spot. The wooden bridge which formerly existed was now fast decaying and dangerous for horses. We gave ours to the guide, who led them through the water, riding upon his own, whilst we found our way across some loose beams. This operation did not delay us long.

We received our steeds from the guide, with their saddles wet, and themselves all dripping, and in a few minutes more entered the town of Guyana, between four and five o'clock in the afternoon. The distance from Hesifi to Guyana is fifteen leagues. The road we had traveled over is the highway from the Certan, footnote is this word abbreviated from desertum used as an augmentative according to the Portuguese custom for deserto and footnote by which the cattle descend from the estates upon the river asu and from the plains of this portion of the interior to the markets of hacifi therefore the continued passage of large droves of cattle has beat down the underwood and made a broad sandy road. The large trees still remain, when it has been so happened that any grew upon the track. These, if of any considerable size, brave the crowd of

animals, and will remain either until they decay from age and fall, or till regular roads begin to be constructed in Brazil. Thus, when the ground is flat, the road is not bad, but upon the sides of hills, instead of being carried round the steepest ascents, the track has been made straight up and down, or nearly so, and the winter torrents form deep caverns and ravines, the sides of which sometimes fall in and make the roads very dangerous, so that, unless well acquainted with a hill, it is by no means safe to ascend or descend by night. As one or two days of the usual reign of Brazil may have made a great difference and have rendered the road impassable.

In the course of this day we saw four or five large and rudely constructed crosses erected by the roadside, pointing out the situations upon which murder had been committed. I was received most kindly by Signor Joachim, whom I had before had the pleasure of meeting at Hesipi, and he was not a man difficult to become acquainted with. We sat down to dinner about five o'clock when his lady and two little girls his daughters made their appearance. We had dishes cooked in Portuguese, Brazilian, and English style. The town of Guyana, one of the largest and most flourishing in the captaincy of Pernambuco, is situated upon the banks of a river of the same name, which at the spot bends so considerably

that the town is almost surrounded by it. The dwellings, with one or two exceptions, have only the ground floor. The streets are not paved, but are broad, and of these the principal one is of sufficient breath to admit of a large church at one extremity, and the continuation of a street of considerable width on each side of the church. The town contains a Carmelite convent and several other places of worship. The inhabitants are in number between four and five thousand, and it is an increasing place. Several shops are established here, and the commerce, where the interior is considerable.

In the streets are always to be seen numbers of the Matutos, countrymen, either selling produce or purchasing manufactured goods and other articles of consumption. In the vicinity are many fine sugar plantations. I suppose that some of the best lands in the province are in this neighborhood. The proprietors of these occasionally reside in the town, and his daily intercourse often creates rivalry among wealthy families, this necessarily increases expenditure, and the town is, in consequence,

much benefited by the augmented consumption of luxuries. The planters have the advantage of water carriage from hence to Hesifi for their sugar chests, as this river is one of the largest, for many leagues to the north or to the south, and is influenced by the tide even to a short distance above the town. Guyana stands four leagues distant from the sea in a direct line, but by the river it is reckoned to be seven. Above the town, in the rainy season, the river overflows its banks to a great extent. Goyana and its extensive district is subject in military affairs to the governor of Pernambuco, but its civil concerns are directed by a Jewish Jiforah, a judicial officer appointed by the Supreme Government. for the term of three years, who resides in the town, and from his decisions, appeal may be made to

the Ovador of Parraiba. We dined on one occasion with the proprietor of the Mazumbo estate. This gentleman and a few others, besides ourselves, dined in one apartment, whilst the ladies of whom we were not permitted even to have a transient view were in another adjoining. Two young men, sons of their proprietor, assisted their father's slaves and waiting upon us at dinner, and did not sit down themselves until we rose from table. The owner of the place is a Portuguese, and it is among this portion of the population,

who have left their own country to accumulate fortunes in Brazil, that the introduction of improvement is almost impossible. Many Brazilians, likewise, even of the higher class, follow the Moorish customs of subjection and seclusion, but these soon see the preference, which ought to be given to more civilized manners, and easily enter into more polished habits if they have any communication with the towns.

On the 24th of October, I delivered a letter of introduction which I had obtained at Hesifi to Dr. Manuel Ahuda da Cammara. This interesting person then lay at Goyan, a very ill of dropsy, brought on by residing in Aguish districts. He was an enterprising man, and had always been an enthusiast in botany. His superior abilities would have caused him to be caressed by a profit in government when one of this description is establishing itself in an uncultivated but improving country. He showed me some of his drawings, which I thought

well executed. I never again had an opportunity of seeing him, for when I had returned from Seara, I had not time to inquire and seek for him, and he died before my second voyage to Pernambuco. He was forming a flora Pernambucana, which he did not live to complete. Signor Joachim had business at Parraiba, which he intended to have sent his brother Feliz to transact, but as I offered to accompany him, he thought it would be pleasant. to go with me, and show the lions of that city. We sent off his black guide and my servant with a loaded horse before us, and followed the next day with his black boy. We crossed the campinas de Guyana Grande about sunrise, and passed the sugar plantation of that name, belonging to

Seigneur Jirum, standing at the foot of the hill, which carries you to the two hios. The road I afterwards followed to Rio Grande is through two hills, but the road to Parraiba strikes off just before you reach it, to the right. The road between Guyana and Parahiba presents nothing particularly interesting. The hills are steep but not high, and woods, plantations, and cottages are, as usual, the objects to be seen. The distance is 13 leagues. We enter the city of Parraiba at 12 o'clock, and rode to the house of the Colonel Matheos Nagama, a man of property and a colonel of militia. He was an acquaintance of Senor Joaquin. He was about to leave the place for one of his sugar plantations, which he did, giving us entire possession of his house and a servant to attend upon us. The city of Parahipa,

for much smaller places even than this bear the rank of city in these yet thinly peopled regions, contains from 2,000 to 3,000 inhabitants, including the lower town. It bears strong marks of having been a place of more importance than it is now, and though some improvements were going on. They were conducted entirely through the means which government supplied for them, or rather the governor wished to leave some memorial of his administration of the province. The principal street is broad and paved with large stones, but is somewhat out of repair. The houses are mostly of one story, with the ground floors as shops, and a few of them have glass windows, an improvement which has been only lately introduced into Hesifi. The Jesuits'

convent is employed as the Governor's Palace, and the Ovadour's office and residents also. The church of the convent stands in the center, and these are the two wings. The convents of the Franciscan, Carmelite, and Benedictine orders are very large buildings, and are almost uninhabited. The first contains four or five friars, the second two, and the third only one. Besides these, the city has to boast of six churches. The public fountains at Parahibah are the only works of the kind I met with anywhere on the part of the coast which I visited. One was built, I believe, by Amaro Joaquin, the former governor.

It is handsome and has several spouts. The other which was only then building is much larger, and the superintendence of the workman was the chief amusement of the governor. We waited upon this gentleman the day after our arrival. My companion had been acquainted with him in Lisbon when he was in Ensign. His parents were respectable people in one of the northern provinces of Portugal. He was placed at some seminary for the purpose of being educated it for the church, but he escaped from thence and enlisted as a private soldier in Lisbon. One of the officers of the regiment in which he was enrolled soon found out that he was a man of education. Having learned his story, he was made a cadet as being of good family. He came over in the

same ship with the Princess of Brazil, a captain of infantry, married one of the maids of honor on their arrival at Hio de Janeiro, and in about 18 months had advanced from a captaincy to the government of Parraiba, and a commandery of the Order of Christ. We next crossed to the other wing of the building, and paid a visit to the Ovador. A very affable and good-humored old gentleman, his chaplain, a jolly little friar, and an old acquaintance of Signor Joaquin, made his appearance and was afterwards very civil to us during our stay. The prospect from the windows presents Brazil's scenery of the best kind, extensive and evergreen woods,

dotted by a range of hills and watered by several branches of the river, with here and there a whitewashed cottage placed upon their banks, and these, though they were situated in a higher spots of land, were still half concealed by the lofty trees. The cultivated specs were so small as to be scarcely perceptible. The lower town consists of small houses and is situated upon the borders of a spacious basin or lake, formed by the junction of three rivers, which from hence discharged their waters into the sea by one considerable stream.

The banks of the basin are covered with mangroves, as in all the salt rivers of this country, and they are so close and thick that there seems to be no outlet. I did not follow the river down to the sea, but I understand that there are in it some fine islands, with good land quite uncultivated. Footnote, a person with whom I was afterwards acquainted, has since cleared one of these islands and has formed some salt works upon it. And footnote.

Paraibo is the scene of much fighting during the Dutch war. and I now regret not having proceeded down the river to the famous fort of Cabedello. This war was conducted upon a small scale, but the deeds which were performed by the brave defenders of their country may rank with those which any other people have displayed in a cause of equal import to the actors. The trade of Parahipa is inconsiderable, though the river admits a vessels of 150 tons upon the bar, and when in the basin, opposite to the lower town, a rope yarn would keep them still, as no harm could reach them.

It contains a regular custom house, which is seldom open. Barraiba lies out of the road from the Certown to Hesifé, that is, out of the direct way, from the towns upon the coast, further north. Footnote, the word Certau is used rather indefinitely, as it does not only mean the interior of the country. but likewise a great part of the coast, of which the population is yet scanty, receives this general name. Thus, the whole of the country between Hiogranji and Parahiba is called Sertan. Parahibah is a small province, situated between Sierra and Maranion. End footnote. The inhabitants of the Sertan of the interior will make for Hesipi rather than Parahiba,

as the more extensive market for their produce. The port of Hesiphi admits of larger vessels, and has more conveniences for the landing and shipment of goods. Consequently, it obtains the preference. The houses of this place, which may be reckoned handsome from the general comparison of the country, have been built by the great landholders in the neighborhood as a residence during the depth of the winter, or rainy season.

The lands of the captaincy are, generally speaking, rich and fertile, but so great a preference is given to plantations nearer to Hecifi, that those of Paribar are to be purchased at a much less price. The sugar of this province is reckoned equal to that of any part of Brazil. I soon saw what was to be seen, and we had no society. Time, however, did not appear to hang heavy. Fort Signor Joachim was a man of inexhaustible good humor and hilarity. We lived, as it were, by magic, as the colonel had ordered his servant to supply everything for us. The late governor, Amato Joaquin, brought the captaincy into great order by his necessary severity. A custom prevailed a person's walking about the town at night in

large cloaks, and creep over their faces, thus concealed to carry on their irregular practices. The governor, not be able to discover who these persons were, gave orders one night for the parole to take into custody all who were so dressed. This was done, and some of the principal inhabitants were found the next morning in the guardhouse. A man of the name of Nogheira, the son of a black or mulatto woman, and of one of the first men in the captaincy had made himself much dreaded by his outrageous proceedings. He had carried from their parents' houses the daughters of some persons of respectability in the captaincy, murdering the friends and relatives who opposed his entrance. The man was at last taken. Amato Joaquin would have had him executed, but he found that this was not

to be done, from the interest which the family made for him and therefore ordered him to be flogged. Noguera said that being half a fidalgo, a nobleman, this mode of punishment could not be practiced upon him. The government then ordered that he should be flogged upon only one side of his body, that his Fidelgo side might not suffer, desiring Noghe to say which was his Fidelgo side. He was accordingly punished in this manner, and after remaining sometime in prison, was sent to Angola for life. The city of Parraiba still enjoys the good effects of Amar al-Wakim's strict government. I was acquainted with him at Pernambuco before I set off on this journey. His appearance and his conversation both bespoke a man of superior abilities.

When I saw him in Hesifi, he was on his way to Piaoui, of which captaincy he had been appointed governor. He died on board a coasting vessel on the passage to Piaoui of a fever. Signor Joachim wished to return by the seashore to Guyana, a distance of. of 22 leagues. We set off at the time the tide was flowing and proceeded along the beach. Until about eleven o'clock we reached the house of a Capitaine Morro, quite a first-rate man in this part of the world. It was a mud cottage, as bad or worse than that of any laborer in England, situated upon the burning sands with a pool of salt water before the door, which is never quite dry. Consequently, breeds insects of all kinds. We cross two ferries in the course of the morning.

The conveyances are small jangathas. Footnote. The rafts employed upon small rivers are of a construction similar to those already described on a former occasion, save that still less workmanship is bestowed upon them. End footnote. The saddle is placed upon it, and the horse swims by the side, whilst the rider stands upon the raft and holds the reins. The ferrymen either paddles across the stream or pulls if it is not too deep. About three o'clock we found that we had entered upon a considerable tract of sand, enclosed by perpendicular rocks, against which the watermark was at some height. However, the tide was already on the ebb. We made our guide mount the horse, which, until now, he had driven before him, and keep pace with us.

whilst we quickened ours. The tide was still very near to the rocks, and we found that the water still reached one which projected further than the rest. Therefore, as we were yet hemmed in, we left our horses and climbed up this rock. The guide in the meantime drove the loose horses into the water. They fortunately leaned to the right, passed out far enough to see the land on the other side of the rock, and made for. I was getting over the rock, missed my footing, and fell up to my arms into a hole between two pieces of it. However, I seceded in raising myself and leaped from it to the sand on the other side, just at the return of a wave, by which means I had an unintentional cold bath up to my waist.

We might certainly have waited to allow the tide to retreat, but were afraid of being benighted, which after all our exertions, did happen to us. The country on the other side of the projecting rock is, low and sandy, uncultivated land. At dusk we arrived upon the banks of a broad stream, so that by the light which then remained, we could not see the other side. After several calls, the ferryman did not make his appearance, and the night closed in. I'd advise sleeping under the tree, which then sheltered us. To this my companion would not consent, but asked the distance to Abiyah, the nearest sugar plantation. The guide answered three

leagues. We must either sleep where we were or go to Abiyah. We'd already advanced 16 leagues, and Seor Joachim's horse, a fine highly fed animal, began to give way. The guide led, and we followed through a narrow path, very little frequented, as the bushes oftentimes nearly took off our hats, and were continually brushing against us the whole way. On our arrival at Hibia, the house was quite deserted, as the steward was from home. And we did not like to enter a cottage which stood near to the principal house, when we found that the party in it was larger than our own, and not likely to be of the best kind. We had now another half-league to go to Signor Leonoros, a friend of my fellow traveler. He gave us a good supper in hammocks, took care of our horses,

and in the morning we set forth for Guyana, seven leagues. We passed, through Alhandra, an Indian village, containing about 600 inhabitants. This village is not so regularly built as many of the others which I've seen. Instead of a square with houses on each side, it is built in streets, and though the square is preserved,

still it is not the principal feature of the place. The Indians of Alhandra from their vicinity to Guyana, which is distant about three leagues, are not so pure as those further from a large, large town, and they have admitted among them some mamelucos and mestizos. Great part of this extent of coast was uninhabited, but wherever the land was low and the surf not violent, there we found a few cottages. The banks of the rivers were also not entirely destitute of inhabitants. The two streams which we first cross might be about 80 or 100 yards

in breadth. They are deep, but do not proceed far into the country. When the action of the tide ceases, all these lesser streams become insignificant, and most of them quite dry. The Great River, which we were to have crossed is the Goyana. It spreads very widely when the tide enters, but is easily passed at the ebb, and the channel becomes much contracted, and very shallow during the spring tides. It is judged to be about a league and breath at its mouth. End of Chapter 4. Chapter 5 of Travels in Brazil, Volume 1 by Henry Koster. This Librevox recording is in the public domain.

Chapter 5. Journey from Guyana to Hill Grange, the city of Natal, the governor. I had entertained hopes of being accompanied by Senor Joaquin, at least as far as Heo Grange, but he changed his mind, and I began to make the necessary arrangement. for going alone. I purchased three more horses and hired a guide for the Certom, who was a white man of the country, and two Indian lads of about 16 years of age. On the 3rd of November, I again set forth, accompanied by my English John, Francisco, the guide, Julio, and the other boy, his companion. We only reach Dois-Hios the same evening, which is two leagues distant from Guyana.

We had left that place late in the day, and got on very slowly as the two loads upon the horses were not well divided and deranged. I now found, on stopping for the night, that I had not provided as many things as were necessary, that I wanted an additional piece of bays to cover myself at night, that we ought to have brought more kitchen apparatus, and that knives and forks were to be had very rarely. I had with me a trunk with my clothes on one side of the pack-sand-sand-and-a-packed, saddle and a case with some bottles of rum and wine on the other side, and my hammock in the middle. These made one load. The other horse carried in the malas a kind of trunk on the one side, our provisions, and on the other, the clothes of my people, additional ropes and other tackle.

I was far from being well supplied, but afterwards provided myself with more things as I went on, learning by experience. The hammocks are all made of cotton. and are of several sizes and colors, and of various workmanship. Those in use among the lower orders are made of cotton cloth of the manufacturer of the country. Others are composed of net work, from which all the several kinds derive the general name of Hedji, Annette. Others, again, are knit or woven in long straight threads, knotted across at intervals. These are usually dyed of two or three colors, and are to be found in the houses of wealthy, persons. This species of bed has been adopted from the Indians, and nothing more convenient and

better adapted to the climate could possibly be imagined. It could be wrapped up in a very small compass, and with the addition of a piece of bays as a cover lid is usually of sufficient warmth. I could not discover that there was any stream at this place, though it bears the name of Dois Heos, or the two rivers. It is a large open piece of land with cottages upon the skirts, and attached to each is a pen for cattle. The great weekly fare for cattle from the Certown for the Pernambuco market is held here. From Doyshios we advanced the following day to the sugar plantation of Espiritu Santo, situated upon the banks of the river Parayipa, which becomes dry in the summer at a short distance above this estate.

i had letters to the owner of it who was a member of the calvocante family and the capitan moor of the captaincy of paraiba i was received by him in a very friendly manner the houses in the usual style of the country having only the ground floor and no ceiling the tiles and rafters being in full view supper of dried meat and the flour of the mangioc made into paste in kogpiraum was placed before me also some hard biscuits and red wine. I was not then sufficiently a Brazilian to eat peraum, and took the biscuits with meat and preference, which much astonished my host. Sweetmeats were afterwards brought in, which are always good in the houses of persons of his rank in life, the opulent people in Brazil taking as much pride in their doses as an English citizen in his table or his wines. The cloth was laid at one end of a long table, and I said, down by myself, whilst the Capitán Moore placed himself upon the table near to the other end,

and talked to me, and some of the chief persons of his establishment stood around to see the strange animal called an Englishman. We adjourned from the supper-room into another spacious apartment, and each of us took a hammock, of which there were several in the room, and swung and talked until we are half asleep. One of his men supposed that as I spoke Portuguese, there must be an Englishman who did not speak English, or that any Portuguese on going to England would immediately speak the language of that country. As I did Portuguese, the Capitamore seldom leaves his estate to go to Hecifi or even to Parahiba. It lives in the usual style of the Brazilian gentry, in a kind of feudal state. In several young men about him, some of whom were employed by him, neither his wife nor any of

his children appeared. The principal apartments of this house are two spacious rooms, having a great number of doors and windows. In one were several hammocks and a sofa, and in the other the long table upon which I supped. There were a few chairs in each of them, the floors were of brick, and the shutters and doors were unpainted. The owner of this mansion wore a shirt and a pair of drawers, a long bedgown called a chambre, and a pair of slippers. This is the usual dress of those persons who have no work to perform. When a Brazilian takes to wearing one of these long gowns, it begins to think himself a gentleman, and entitled, consequently, to much respect.

The next day we advanced about seven leagues, and for the first time I slept in the open air. We intended to have taken up our lodging for the night at a neighboring house. Hamlet, but the huts were so small and miserable, being constructed of the leaves of palm trees that I prefer the open air. We made for the rivulet, which runs at a little distance from these habitations. The horses were immediately unloaded, and their pack-saddles taken off that they might roll in comfort. The next thing to be done was to get firewood. In most parts of the country it is very pletiful, and as we were upon the skirts of a thick wood, there was here, no want of it. A light was struck and two fires made. We got an additional pan from one of the

neighboring huts, and our dried meat was cooked. The meat is dried in the old Indian manner by laying it upon a platform of twigs, raised about 18 inches from the ground in making a fire underneath. We'd discover that not far off a field or piece of land, rather more cleared of wood than the rest, was rented by a cottager, who would allow our horses to to be put into it for a vinchim, about five farlings each for the night, which the guide thought I should consider dear, and therefore told me it was the usual price. As may be supposed, I made no great difficulties on this score, and the horses were taken to the place by Julio and his companion. I now thought myself settled for the night, and therefore ate my supper, sitting in my hammock,

which was slung between two trees, with a plate upon one of the trunk, and I now thought myself settled for the night, and therefore ate my supper, which was slung between two trees, with a plate upon one of the trunks. Having finished, I took my cigar and sat down close to the fire. The guide lighted his pipe, and placed himself on the opposite side, that we might have a talk about our proceedings for the morrow. I returned to my hammock about ten o'clock, but found the air very sharp, and consequently lay down under the lee of the fire, upon a hide of which we had two for covering the loads in case of rain. This was to me a new scene, what I thought of the complete change of habits which this kind of life required, and how entirely different it was from anything in England.

I may almost say in Europe, when I looked round and saw our several fires, for the cold air had by this time obliged each person to have his own. The men all asleep, our pack-saddles, trunks, and other parts of our baggage, scattered about as it was taken from the horses. when I heard the running of the water and the rustling of the trees, and when I considered that I was entering upon a people with whose habits I was a little acquainted, whose feelings toward my countrymen I was ignorant of. I felt the kind of damp, but this was soon removed by thinking of the pleasure of return and of the accomplishment of what I deemed incapable of performing. I was cheered by my recollection of the knowledge I had of the language, and by the determination I felt within me of conforming to the customs of the people, of submitting to their prejudices.

I was not old enough to have contracted any habits too deep to be laid aside when necessary. These thoughts were interrupted by the cry of Jesus, which was repeated every half-minute in a dismal voice. I called to the guide, supposing it to proceed from some person in distress. He waked, and I told him what made me call to him. He said it was only some person helping another Abin Mohir, that is, that some dying person, which I found was the usual custom, had a friend to repeat the word Jesus until the sufferer expired, that it might not be forgotten, and perhaps to keep the devil of. I down the following day at the village of Manwan Guapi, situated upon the banks of a dry river. It is a thriving place. These more modern villages have been built in one long street upon the road,

the older ones in a square. It had then about three hundred inhabitants, but I have since heard that the number is more than doubled, and that new houses are building. The river can scarcely be reckoned of any advantage to the village, but the place forms a convenient break between Goyana and Hio Grange, for the traveling peddlers a useful, industrious, and generally honest set of men, as the resting place and headquarters. From hence they make daily excursions to the plantations at a little distance, a return here to sleep. I passed the night in the outhouses of some sugar-works. My guide was much astonished at my not

asking for lodgings at the Casa Grande, or owner's house, but I prefer these kind of quarters to better ones, where I might run the risk of being obliged to remain half the night of wait for the purpose of giving news. The hospitality, however, of the planters is very great, and no recommendation is necessary, though I had provided myself with a few letters. The next day we proceeded to Cuniaum, the sugar plantation of the Colonel André Dabu the chief of the Maragnan, the chief of the Marignan branch of this numerous and distinguished family

of the Albuquerques. He is a man of immense planted property. The plantation of Cuneo extends along the road 14 leagues, and the owner has since purchased another large estate adjoining. His lands likewise in the Certown, for breeding cattle, are supposed not to be less than 30 to 40 leagues in extent,

of those kind of leagues that sometimes takes a man three or four hours to get over one. I'd letters to him from some of his relations and friends at Pernambuco. He was sitting at his door with his chaplain and several of his stewards and other persons employed by him to have all the benefit of the fresh air. He's a man of about thirty years of age, handsome and rather above the middle size, with genteel manners, rather courtly as the Brazilians of education generally are. He lives quite in futile state. His necrows and other dependents are numerous. He commands the regiment of militia cavalry of Hiro-Granji, and has them in good order, considering the state of the country. He came forwards on my dismounting, and I gave him the letters,

which he put by to read at leisure, and then desiring me to sit down, ask me several questions of my wishes, intentions, etc. He took me to his guest's apartments at a little distance from his own residence, where I found a good bed. Hot water was brought to me in a large brass basin, and every necessary was supplied in a magnificent style. The towels were all fringed, etc. When I addressed myself, I expected to be called to supper, but to my amazement I waited until near one o'clock when a servant came to summon me. I found in the dining room a long table laid out and covered with meat of several kinds, and in quantity sufficient for twenty persons. To this feast, the colonel, his chaplain, another person, and myself sat down.

When I had eaten until I was quite tired, to my utter dismay, another course came on, equally profuse of fowls, pastry, etc., etc. And when this was removed, I'd yet a third to go through of at least ten different kinds of sweetmeats. The supper could not have have been better cooked or handsomer if it had been prepared at Hesifi, or even an English epicure might have found much to please his palate. I was not able to retire to rest until near three o'clock. My bed was most excellent, and I enjoyed it still more from not expecting to find one. In the morning the colonel would not allow me to leave his house until I had breakfasted. Tea, coffee, and cakes were brought in, all of which were very good. He then took me to see

his horses, impressed me much to leave my own, and take one of his for my journey, that mine might be in good condition on my return, and he also urged me to leave my pack-horses and take some of his, but as mine were still all in working order, I declined accepting his offer. These circumstances are mentioned to show the frankness with which strangers are treated. I could not get away before ten o'clock, and therefore only advanced two leagues to dinner. I stopped by the side of a rivulet under some trees upon a most beautiful spot. A short distance from the estate of Cunian is a hamlet of the same name, through which I passed in my way to the Colonel's plantation.

This hamlet, or the estate itself, was the scene of a massacre which was committed by the Pito Goares and the Tapoyaz from the Potenge in the year 1645. A battle was fought by Camarang, the Indian chieftain, to whose prowess the Portuguese are so much indebted, against the Dutch in the following year, between Cugnion and Fort Céoline, which stands at the mouth of the Potengue. The captaincy of Hiogranji commences some leagues to the southward of Cunia at a place called Los Marcos, a deep dell inhabited by runaway negroes and criminals. The paths of the dell are intricate, and once a man has taken up his residence here, it is impossible to dislodge him. This season the crop of cotton had failed. It was one of those years in which a great want of rain

was felt. The colonel of Cuniao had, for the first time, planted a piece of land from which he expected to have gathered ten thousand a hovas, but in the end only gathered about one hundred. And he told me that he should keep to his sugar hence forwards. He is lenient to his slave, they look fat and well, and he is the character of not making as much of his plantation as he might, which is one proof of his kindness to them. The estate of Cugnion is one of the largest, if not quite the most extensive, in these parts. There are upon it about 150 Negroes, and the lands belonging to it would employ four or five times the number, but the colonel pays more attention to cattle by which his father increased

his fortune very largely. As usual, upon our arrival by the side of the rivulet, the horses were unloaded, and my hammock was slung for me. I laid down in my clothes, but soon I started up, finding myself uneasy. The guide saw me and called out, O sir, you were covered with catapatos. I then perceived them and felt some more of their bites, instantly throwing off part of my clothes, but with a remainder upon me, I ran into the water, and there began to take them off. The carapato or tick is a small flat insect of a dark brown color, about the size of four pins' heads placed together. It fastens upon the skin and will in time eat its way into it.

It is dangerous to pull it out quickly when already fixed, for if the head remains, inflammation is not unfrequently the consequence. The point of a heated fork or penknife applied to the insect, when it is too far advanced into the skin to be taken out with a hand, will secede in loosening it. There is another species of tick of much larger size, and of a lead color. This is principally troublesome to horses and horned cattle that are allowed to run loose in lands which have been only partially cleared. I have in some instances seen horses that have had such vast numbers upon them as to have been weakened by the loss of blood which they have occasioned. Insects of this species of catapato fasten themselves to the skin,

but do not force their way into it. Footnote, the castor tree is known in Brazil under the same name. Indeed, there is much similarity in appearance between the seed of this plant from which the oil is extracted and the larger kind of tick. End footnote. The hammock had fallen to the ground, accidentally, when taken from the trunk to be slung, and had thus picked up these unpleasant visitors. I'd some trouble in getting them all off, but was successful, as I had attacked the enemy in time.

We set off again about two o'clock. I'd intended to have written until sunset, and then to have put up near to some cottage, but a young man overtook us, and we entered into conversation. He lived at Paparie, a village about half a league out of the road, and he pressed me, so much to accompany him to sleep at his place that I agreed. Paparri is a deep and narrow valley, a most delightful situation. The whole of the valley is cultivated, and this year the lands were in great request, as the rains had failed and the high sandy lands had proved barren. For whilst every other part of the country appeared dry and burnt up, this spot was in

full verdure. It appeared to laugh at all around it, aware of its own superiority. The inhabitants seemed by their countenances to partake of the joyful looks of the land they lived in. Papari yet enjoys another advantage, though it is at a distance of three or four leagues from the sea. A salt water lake reaches it, so that its inhabitants have the fish brought to their own doors. The tide enters the lake, which is never dry, for although the fresh springs which run into it might fail, still it would always preserve a certain portion of water from the sea. The fishermen come up upon their small river jungadas which do not require more than 12 inches of water.

Paparri is about five leagues from Cuniaum. Señor Dionysio introduced me to his lady, is a native of Portugal and she a Brazilian. They possessed a small piece of land in the valley and appeared to be comfortably situated. Papari may contain about 300 inhabitants, very much scattered. In the course of this year I afterwards heard that many persons flocked to it from other parts, owing to the absolute want of provisions. I went down to the edge of the lake to see the fishermen arrive. The people of the valley had all assembled to receive them.

It was quite a Billingsgate in miniature, save that the Portuguese language does not omit of swearing. We dined in Brazilian style, upon a table raised about six inches from the ground, around which we sat or rather lay down upon mats. We had no forks, and the knives of which there were two or three, were intended merely to sever the larger pieces of meat. The fingers were to do the rest. I remained at Paparri during one entire day,

that my horses might have some respite, that I might purchase another from Signor Dionysian on poor Julio's account, whose feet had begun to crack from the dryness of the sands. Distant from Paparie from three to four leagues is the Indian village of St. Jose built in the form of a square. This place might contain about 200 inhabitants, but it had evidently the appearance of falling to decay. The grass in the center of the square was high, the church neglected, and the whole aspect dull. St. Jose stands upon a dry, sandy soil, and the severity of the season might have contributed to its dismal look. this day we experienced the utter impossibility of trusting to the accounts we received of distances and my guide had no very clever head for recollecting them although he like most of these people possessed a kind of instinct with respect to the paths we were to follow

We were told that Natal was distant from St. Jose, three or four leagues, and therefore expected to arrive at that place by dusk. But about five o'clock we entered upon the dismal sand hills, over which lies the road to the city. The whole country is uninhabited, and I may say uninhabitable between Natal and St. Jose. Consequently, we had very faint hopes of meeting anyone to give us information of the distance. But the guide said he supposed we could not be nearer to it than from two to three leagues, from the recollection he had of these hills, which, when we once passed over, cannot be entirely forgotten. When it was nearly dark and when our horses were almost giving way, we saw two boys on horseback

coming toward us. We asked them the distance. They answered two leagues in all deep sand, adding that they belonged to a party, which had come to make Farina, upon a spot of land, half a league distant from where we were, upon which Mangiok was cultivated. They said that to go on to Hiy O'Granji the same night was madness, that they were going a short way to water the horses, and that on their return they would guide us to their party. I agreed to wait for them. When they arrived, they struck soon from the road, down the side of one of the hills. It was now dark. We followed, entered some high and thick brushwood, and a considerable way into it, found the persons to whom the boys told us they belonged.

The implements for making the farina were placed under a shed, which was thatched with the leaves of the Macaiba and other palm trees. These persons had fixed upon this spot, as there was a spring of brackish water hard by, which was, however, only to be reached by descending a precipice. The pitcher was fastened to a cord and drawn up, and the person who descended to fill it, send at the precipice by means of the brushwood which grows upon the side. I did not much like the party. Therefore, we took up our lodgings at some little distance from them, and none of us settled regularly for the night. I now much regret it not having a dog with me. Our horses passed a wretched night, feeding upon the leaves of the shrubs around us. The next morning we continued our journey

over the sand hills to Natal, traveling about two miles within the hour. The distance Distance from Guyana to Natal is 55 leagues. The sand hills are perpetually changing their situations and forms. The high winds blow the sand in clouds, which renders it dangerous to travelers. It is white, very fine, so that our horses sunk up to the knees at every step, painful to a very great degree, when the sun has had full power upon it. Poor Julio had mounted upon the haunches of one of the loaded horses, and occasion are traveling still slower, always desolate and dreary, for the great lightness of the sand

almost prevented vegetation, though some of the creeping seaside plants had seceded here and there in establishing a footing. The tract of country between Guyana and Espiritu Santo, and indeed even to Cugnian, keeping at no great distance from the coast, is appropriate for the most part to sugar plantations. But many of the seignores de ingenue sugar planters also employ part of their time in raising cotton. The general feature is of an uncultivated country, though a great quantity of land is yearly employed. The system of agriculture is so slovenly, or rather, as there is no necessity for a husbandry of land from the immensity of the country, and the smallness of its population. Lands are employed one year, and the next the brushwood is allowed to grow up. up, giving us to every piece of ground that is not absolutely in use that year, the look of one

totally untouched, until a person is acquainted in some measure from practice with the appearance of the several kinds of land. It will then perceive the difference between brushwood that will not grow because the land is of a barren kind, and that which is left to rise, that the land may rest for another crop. From this manner of cultivating their lands, a plantation requires three or four times more ground than would otherwise be necessary. I passed through several deep woods and ascended some steep hills, but I saw nothing which deserve the name of mountain. I crossed some flat sandy plains, upon which the accaju, mangaba, and several species of palm or cabbage trees grow. These are merely fit to turn cattle upon in winter, and will only be brought into cultivation when lands begin to

be scarce in Brazil. Varzeus, or lowly marshlands, adapted to the sugar cane, I also frequently saw. The circados, or fence pieces of ground, attached to each sugar plantation upon which are fed the cattle, kept for the work of it, are the only spots which bear the look of fields, and even in these, the brushwood is not always sufficiently cleared away, unless the proprietor is wealthy, and has an abundance of persons upon his estate. Otherwise, such is the fertility of the soil, that without great care, the circado will in time become a wood. There are several hamlets upon the road,

consisting of three or four cottages, and these are built of slight timber, and the leaves of the cabbage trees. Others have mud walls, and are covered with these leaves, and now and then a house build of mud with a tile roof is to be seen. this bespeaks a man above the common run of people. I crossed several rivulets, which were much reduced by the drought,

but I did not see any great streams. The Parahiba was dry where I passed it, as also was the river near Mamangupe. A rivulet that runs into the lake at Papari was the only stream which appeared still to possess its usual strength. The road from Guyana to Mamanguapé is the great Certan Trac, and is similar to that between hesifi and goyana excepting that the plains of the part of the country i had just now traversed are more extensive and the roads over these are dangerous as they are only marked by the short and ill-grown grass being worn away upon the path but as the cattle extend more upon a plain and cannot be kept so close from the greater extent of ground over which they pass each part receives fewer footsteps and the grass not unfrequently resists their passing

and vegetation still continues consequently in an imperfect light an experience guide is necessary as on these plains no huts are ever to be met with being for the most part destitute of waters these the brazilians called tableros distinguishing them by this name from campinas upon the latter the soil is closer and they afford good grass beyond mamangupe the road is sometimes a mere path with breath sufficient only for two loaded horses to pass, and in some places it has not even the necessary width for this purpose, the valley of Paparia I have already mentioned, as being much superior to the rest of the country. The trees in Brazil are mostly evergreens, and the drought must be great indeed to make them lose their leaves, but the green of the leaves of a parched plant, though still a green, is very different from the bright, joyful color of one that is in full health. This produced the striking difference between that valley and the burnt lands above it.

Besides, the misfortunes of other parts made its good luck more apparent. I arrived about eleven o'clock in the morning at the city of Natal, situated upon the banks of the Hio-Granji, or Potengi. A foreigner who might chance to land first at this place on his arrival upon the coast of Brazil would form a very poor opinion of the state of the population of the country, for if places like this are called cities, what must the towns and villages be? But such a judgment would not prove correct, for many villages, even of Brazil, surpassed this city. The rank must have been given to it not from what it was or is, but from the expectation of what it might be at some future period.

The settlement upon rising ground, rather removed from the river, is properly the city, as the parish church is there. It consists of a square, with houses on each side, having only a ground floor, the churches of which there are three, the palace, town hall, and even prison. Three streets lead from it, which have also a few houses on each side. No part of the city is paved, although the sand is deep. On this account, indeed, a few of the inhabitants have raised a footpath of bricks before their own houses. The place may contain from six to seven hundred persons. I wrote immediately to the palace, as I had letters of introduction to the governor, from several of his friends at Pernambuco.

He received me in the most cordial manner. He asked me for my passport, which I produced, was scarcely open when he immediately returned it, saying that he only did this, that all necessary form must be complied with. He said that I should stay with him, and he would provide a house for, for my people. At one o'clock we dine, and one of his aides to camp was with us. In the afternoon we walk down to the lower town. It is situated upon the banks of the river, the houses stand along the southern bank, and there is only the usual width of a street between them and the river. This place may contain from two to three hundred inhabitants, and here live the man of trade of

Hiro-Granji. The bar of Potenghi is very narrow, but is sufficiently deep to administer. mid-vessels of 150 tons. The northern bank projects considerably, and for this reason it is necessary that a ship should make for it from the southward. The entrance to the reef of rocks, which lies at some distance from the shore, also requires to be known, so that altogether the port is a difficult one. The river is very safe when once within the bar. The water is deep and quite still, and two vessels might swing in its breath, but it soon becomes shallow, and in the course of a few miles is greatly diminished. I should imagine that six or seven vessels might swing altogether in the harbor. The bars of rivers that are formed, as in this case of sand, are, however, not to be trusted to without good pilots,

as they soon change their depth and even their situation. When the tide enters, the northern bank is overflowed about one mile from the mouth of the harbor, and spreads over a considerable extent of ground, which even during the ebb, is always wet and muddy, but never becomes sufficiently deep to prevent passing. The governor was raising a road over this piece of land, and the work was then nearly half-finished. The new road would be about one mile in length. The captaincy of Hiogranji is subject to the governor of Pernambuco, and those of Parahiba and Sierra were formerly in the same situation, but have of late years been formed into independent provincial governments. The governor, Francisco Chippaola Calvacante, the Albuquerque, is a native of Pernambuco,

and a younger brother of the chief of the Calvacante branch of the Albuquerque's. His father, a Brazilian also, was first in Ensign in the Hesifi regiment of the line. He afterwards established himself upon a shrewkish. sugar plantation and made a fortune. The old man died and left each of his son's considerable property. Two remained upon their estates and still live upon them. This third son entered the Olinda Regiment and was much beloved by the men. The regiment had then only one company of which he became the commander. In large sums of money taken from his own purse were expended by him for their good equipment. He went to Lisbon on some business relating to his company.

and whilst he was there, a denuncia, a private accusation, was given by some enemy to the family, that the brothers were forming a conspiracy against the government. He was obliged to leave Lisbon, afraid of being put under an arrest, and fled to England, where his reception was such that he has ever wished for opportunities of showing kindness to persons of that nation. His brothers suffered much in person and improperly, but matters were at last cleared up, as the accusation was proved to be false. Francisco was immediately promoted to a majority, and soon afterwards sent to govern Hiogranji,

is a man of talent and of proper feelings in regard of his duties, enthusiastic in wishing to better the condition of the people over whom he was placed. I am grieved to say that he has been removed to the insignificant government of St. Michael's, one of the Azores, or Western Islands. When he was appointed to Hiro-Granji, there was scarcely a well-dressed person in it, but he had succeeded in persuading one family to send for English manufactured goods to Hesifi. When once these were introduced, they made their way. One would not be outdone by another, and in the course of two years they had become general.

We visited the church in the evening. All the ladies were handsomely dressed in silks of various colors and black veils thrown over the head and face. A 12-month previous to this period, these same persons would have gone to church in petticoats of Lisbon printed cottons and square pieces of thick cloth over their heads without stockings and their shoes down at the heels. The military establishment consists of 114 men,

one company, which were in much better order than those of Pernambuco or Parayiba. The captaincy of Hio Grandejee enjoyed perfect quietude from robberies through the governor's exertions. He promoted the building of a large house, which was going on very fast, and for which he had subscribed largely. The rent of it was to be appropriated to the support of the widows of the soldiers of the captaincy. This work has, I am afraid, been laid aside since his removal. The situation of the prisoners was very miserable. He wished to better it, and requested that the principal persons of the place would take it in turn weekly to carry a bag round to all the inhabitants, that each might give some trifle to assist in their support.

For some time this went on well, but after a few weeks it was neglected. He therefore took the bag himself, and accompanied by one of his aides-de-camp, called at every house. He said that this was the most comfortable week the prisoners had ever passed since their confinement, as more was. given by each person than was usual, and the excellent arrangement was again taken up with arthur by the same persons who had neglected it. A British vessel was wrecked near Natal, and I have always understood that the proprietors were perfectly satisfied that every exertion possible had been made use of to save the property. The drought of this year had caused a scarcity of the flour of the Mangio, the bread of Brazil, and the price was so high at a sea-fiel,

Goyana, etc., that those persons of Hio Grande, who possessed it, began to ship it off for other places. This, the governor, prohibited. He ordered it to be sold in the marketplace, at a price equal to the gain the owners would have had by sending it away, and if all was not bought, he took it himself, began giving it out when necessary at the same price. These anecdotes of him I had partly from himself, but principally from persons of the place, to whom I was introduced. When he left the city on his appointment to St. Michael's, the people followed him to some distance, praying for his prosperity. End of Chapter 5.

Chapter 6 Part 1 of Travels in Brazil, Volume 1 by Henry Costa. This Cibrovox recording is in the public domain. Continuation of the Journey from Natal to Assul. The governor did all in his power to dissuade me from proceeding further, the drought being so great as to render it not quite prudent, but as I had come so far, I was resolved at any rate to make the attempt. If I had been certain of being able to undertake the journey at a future period,

it would have been better to have returned, and to have waited until a more favorable season. But I am rejoiced that I went at that time. time, as otherwise I should most probably have been under the necessity of foregoing my plan altogether. Some of the disagreeable circumstances which I met with certainly proceeded from the rigor of the season. I received from the governor a letter of introduction to Aracati. He also insisted upon my leaving my own horse that he might be in good condition when I returned. I was to sleep at a place from which Hio Grange is supplied with Farina during the drought, but in usual years it is too wet to be cultivated, unless it was drained, and of this operation scarcely any notions are entertained.

At Natal I purchased another horse. I crossed the river in a canoe, and the horses and men upon Jianggathas. We were landed upon the new-raged road, and immediately beyond it overtook some persons who were going to the Lagoa Seca, or dry lake above mention, where I was to purchase maize and farina for crossing the tract of country through which runs the river Sierra Mejerin. We left the usual road and turned down a narrow path, which leads to this lake. It was overhung with trees. I struck my head against a branch of one of these and found that I had disturbed a large family which had taken up its residence upon it, my shoulders were quickly covered with small red ants, and I did not get rid of them without feeling some of their bites. We arrived at the dry

lake about six o'clock in the evening, and put up at one of the cottages. In the course of the following morning, I made known my principal errand, that I likewise wished to purchase another horse. The people who were residing here had removed from high lands which had in this season proved barren. They had erected small huts, some of which had not been finished. And the families, therefore, lived in public. These huts had only a roof to shelter their inhabitants, who expected that the first heavy rain would drive them back to their usual habitations, as these lands, after violent rains, are laid under water.

Each man possessed his small field of Mangioch and maize. I left John's horse here in charge of one of these men, as he began to give way, and I proceeded with four loaded horses, two as before, and with Farina and another with maize. I'd provided myself at Hiro-Granji with leathern bags for carrying water and several other necessary things which I had not been instructed to bring, but which experience had taught me the necessity of possessing. We remained at this place during one entire day, and the next morning set off,

intending to sleep at a hamlet called Pai Paolo. We rested at midday near to a well, and in the afternoon proceeded. Wells are generally formed in these parts by digging a hole in the ground to the depth of two or three feet, until the water appears. A person in the neighborhood of one of them,

who takes water from it, should be nice about these matters, matters, a fence is made round it, but if not, as is oftener the case, the well remains open, and the cattle come down to drink at it. These pits or wells are called kaisimbas. The grass was much burnt up, but still there was plenty of it. In the afternoon we passed over some stony ground. It was the first I had met with, and it was very painful to the horses which had come from the sandy soil of Pernambuco. But we soon entered upon a long, though narrow, bound it by brushwood, over which the road was clear, and the grass burnt up entirely on each side.

We overtook a white man on foot, with twelve loaded horses, and a very small pony which carried a saddle. The loads were all alike, each horse carrying two skins or bags of some kind of provisions. I was much surprised at the circumstance of this man, having the management of so many horses, because generally the number of men is nearly equal to that of the beasts. I observed that his horses began to spread upon the plain, and seemed inclined to take to the brushwood. I called to my guide to ride to the right, whilst I did the same to the left, and go in quickly between them and the wood, to prevent the animals from separating. The man thanked me, which brought on further conversation, he asked the guide where we intended

it to sleep and was answered at Pai Pala. The wells at Pai Paholo, he told us, were all dried up, and the inhabitants had deserted their houses. What was to be done? He said that he intended to remain upon a plain two leagues distance from where we then were, that no water was to be had there, but that for our part in himself, his slave who had remained behind to fill a skin at a well which we had passed would bring a sufficient quantity. There was no alternative. To remain here was impossible, for there was no grass. Therefore, I ordered Julio and his companion to let our horses and those of our new friend remain together, and to look to them equally. The slave soon joined us with the water, gave the skin to my guide, and went on to assist Julio, whilst I advance very

slowly, that I might have some more conversation with the owner of the convoyo or convoy, which we had thus joined. He was the son of a man of property, who resided upon the banks of the Azou, and possessed several cattle estates in those parts. The old man was a colonel of militia, and he, with whom I conversed, was the major of the same regiment. The drought had been so severe with them that they feared a famine, and he'd been sent down to the coast to purchase farina for the family, which the skins contained, with the exception of one load consisting of maize for his horses. After he had purchased his farina, he heard of the prohibition of the governor respecting it, and understood that a guard of soldiers was to be sent down to the lake to take it from him.

He had, therefore, stolen a march, and that nothing might be suspected he had left all his people, excepting this one slave, and had even left his clothes. His saddle-horse carried a heavy load, and he set off a day before he had intended. The animal upon which he had placed his saddle was a colt, and too young to bear any further weight. Thus was this major and true Brazilian campaigning style, in his shirt and drawers, his alpara-gattas, or sandals upon his feet, his musket upon his shoulder, his sword by his side, hanging from a belt over one shoulder and his long knife in his girdle. He was a stout, handsome man, about forty years of age,

and where his skin was not exposed it was as white as that of a European, but his face, neck, and legs were of a dark brown color. This man, who at other times enjoyed all the comforts that his country affords, who was respected for his rank and wealth, was obliged to make this journey absolutely to save the lives of his family. true it is that he should not be considered as we should persons of his situation in europe like most of these people he had been from his infancy daily accustomed to what men a more civilized state would account very great hardships the alpara gattas are pieces of leather of a size rather larger than the soles of the feet of the person for whom they are intended two loops are fastened in front of each through which two of the toes are placed there is a ring of leather around each ankle, through which are drawn and tied two thongs which proceed from each side of

the hinder part. These are the shoes of the Brazilians, who live removed from the great and improving towns. Julio was now provided with a pair of them, else I hardly know how he could have proceeded. We halted at the place appointed, upon an immense plain. The grass was all gone, and even the hardy trees, the acajou and mangaba, seemed to feel the want of water, for their leaves had begun to fall. The two parties took up their stations under separate clumps of trees, but upon these plains the trees scarcely ever grow sufficiently near to each other to enable the traveler to hang his hammock between two of them. The poor horses were taken to a dell at some distance to pick up what they could find, that had escaped the drought and the

traveler. Our allowance of water was not large, and therefore we were afraid of eating much salt meat. We did not pass the night comfortably, for the wind rose and scattered our fires, nor did we sleep much, and at four o'clock the horses were brought, to give each of them a feed of maize. One of them refused to eat his portion. The following morning we advanced to Pai Paolo, three leagues further, still crossing the same plain at the extremity of which we first approached the Sierra Mierim, and on the opposite side from that on which we were, stands the village of Pai Pai upon rising ground. This was, without exception, the most desolate place I ever beheld. The roofs of some of the cottages were falling in. The walls of others had fallen, but the roofs

remained. The course of the river was only marked by the depth of its bed, for the soil around was a loose sand, destitute of any covering, and nothing differing from that in the channel of the river. The trees had mostly lost their leaves. I had now entered upon the circled. I had now entered upon the sirtown, and surely it deserves the name. We passed Pippalo, and about noon reached an open well of brackish water dug in the bed of the river. Our Panambuco horses at first refused to drink, but the dirt was cleared away as much as possible for them, and the water left to settle. However, even then they did little more than taste it. Here we were to rest and to give our horses some maize, for there was no grass. The same horse again refused his feed. The guide said that he supposed he was not accustomed

to it, and therefore must be taught to like it, otherwise he could not possibly get over this barren tract of country. The first operation was to soak the maize and water, until it softened, then the guide forced some of it down the animal's throat, closing forcibly its mouth. Whether this had the effect or hunger, I know not, but at night he performed his part pretty well. well, taking rather more time than the others to finish his feed. I drank a small portion of the water, mixing it with lemon juice and sugar, which I had with me. We carried some of this water on with us, for at night we should find none. The county presented the same appearance.

We crossed the Sierra Mirim several times, which in some parts had large rocks in the center of the bed. At night I was not much inclined to eat, but I made up by smoking. We found a shelter place behind part of the bank of the river, and slung our hammocks upon a sloping ground, as the wind rises about eleven or twelve o'clock in these parts, and renders shelter very requisite. It sometimes blows hard. It is a dry wind, but healthy. The following day we were proceeded again in the same manner. I had by this time fully entered into the custom of smoking early, and as we could never get anything cooked until 12 o'clock, I found that this prevented any unpleasant sense of hunger.

My people could not have anything to eat early, as it would have caused delay, therefore it would not have been proper for me to show a bad example. I'd become very intimate with my friend the Major. He learnt from me that we had horses and cows and dogs in England, and he liked me the better for this. At first he wondered how it happened that I could ride. he thought I must be an apt scholar to have learnt since I had gone over to Brazil.

He was also much surprised to hear that we had churches in England, which he had never understood before. He said he should not believe henceforward's that the English were pagoyens, heathens. I told him that one chief point upon which our religion differed from his was in ours not enjoining us to confess. He thought confession a great annoyance, but he could not doubt its propriety. We reached another dirty pool or well of water in the river, which we had again crossed several times. Our resting place at midday afforded no shelter, accepting what could be obtained from one small shrub which was in full leaf. The leaves or branches of it reached to the ground.

I lay down upon the sand and pushed my head in among them, covering the rest of my body with a hide. This was a hot berth, but better than to be completely exposed to the sun. I was astonished at the appearance of this shrub. There are two kinds of trees in certain parts of the Sartown, which are called pehero and Iko. Both seem to flourish most when the seasons are the driest, and both are particularly dangerous to horses. The latter of these plants kills the traveler's beasts,

and the former has the effect of appearing to produce intoxication, and sometimes also proves fatal. The major said that this part of the country abounded in these trees, and consequently our horses were tied to those around us, and to each was given a feed of maize. The plant of which I have spoken above was very beautiful. The green of its leaves were bright and healthy, and I afterwards saw many more of them upon the travasia or crossing. I particularly observed them on this tract of country, as other plants had lost all appearance of life. We were less unpleasantly situated at night, as the water, though brackish, was comparatively clear.

The following day we had still the same country and river to cross. The consciousness of having advanced upon our journey alone caused the knowledge of a change of situation, so exactly similar was the face of the country. At midday we had again no shelter from the sun. The water was little different from that of the preceding day. I lay down under the shady side of a rock, which afforded sufficient shelter,

until the sun began to decline, and throw its rays into the quarter under which I had taken up my station. We'd often seen cattle about the pools or wells. On this occasion, one miserable cow came down to drink. The major happened to be near the pool at the time. He looked at the mark she bore, and knew it to be that of the cattle upon his own estates. How can this animal, he exclaimed, have strayed so far from its own home? The want of water had made it stray at least one hundred miles. This day we overtook a party of Certanegos, as the inhabitants of the Certan are called, likewise going our way. They were at the midway resting point, and one of the horses was at the time of our coming up, tottering from having eaten of the Ico. They were trying to

give it maize in the hope of recovering it, as this is said to have the effect if it is taken soon after, but at the time we left them, the animal when he fell, was with difficulty raised. and the Major said that he thought him, too far gone. I never heard whether these persons returned or still advanced, after this misfortune. I observed in the afternoon several heaps of rocks in the bed of the river, which must form beautiful falls of water when the stream is rapid. Towards evening my guide began to try me. I found that there had been some conversation between him and the two Indians,

respecting the journey, and now he sounded me about returning. I told him I had fully determined to go on, and that I would most certainly shoot any man who attempted to go back, and that if he even then escaped me, I would follow him until I overtook him. He had not said that he would return, but had hinted at the danger of the undertaking at this season, and that the two lads were afraid of proceeding. But I knew him to be the mover. At night he could not have found his way back, as the only mark of a road that was to be perceived, proceeded from the sand being more worn away, and the banks of the river being broken down at the proper crossings. In fact, the marks were such that even in the daytime, a man accustomed to this description of

road could alone find it out. Therefore, I was certain that desertion could only take place in the daytime, which was almost impossible, as I always rode in the rear of the whole party. The guide had no firearms of his own. Besides, he never would have made any attempt to murder me. as he knew how little I slept, and that my pistols were always with me in my hammock. And moreover anything of this sort could have been done only in concert with Julio, who in the sequel proved worthy of the greatest confidence. I found more necessity to be on my guard in returning when John was no longer with me. However, although this man had sufficient courage, he had no watchfulness.

The summary manner in which I threatened to treat the guide can only be justified by the necessity of the case, for had he returned, the two Indians would most probably likewise have deserted me. The man suffers himself to be trifled with. He cannot possibly secede under circumstances such as these. However, I made the threat under the conviction of its being sufficient. We carried water from the resting place at midday, and as usual fixed our quarters at night upon the banks of the river. The next day we advanced again exactly in the same manner. but at noon, to our dismay, there was no water. The pool had dried up. But we rested the horses for a short time, notwithstanding this dreadful disappointment. My thirst was great, for I had not drank the night

before. We had still some lemons left, which were distributed, and these afforded much relief. In the afternoon the Major told me to follow his example, and put a pebble into my mouth, which was the usual resource of the Certanacios on these occasions. I did so, and certainly found that it produced considerable moisture. This was a dismal day, and we knew not whether we should be able to reach a well before some of our horses failed. One of those belonging to the major already ran loose among the others, as he was weak, and his load had been changed to the horse which had carried the maze, the remainder of this being distributed in small portions that it might be carried by the rest.

my horses bore it very well, as those which had not been loaded with provisions were. Of course, in part relieved in the largest load that on my trunk in the case of bottles was carried by each of them in turn, that the hard work might be equally divided. This day we passed some deserted cottages. Our night was very miserable, for some of the horses refused to finish their feeds of maize. The danger of their failing prevented our thinking so much of our own inconvenience. My spirits were kept up by the necessity I felt of keeping up those of others. John was not quite well, and this made me uneasy, as it was as much as we could do to carry ourselves.

Indeed, had any of the party fallen sick, I know not how we should have proceeded. The next morning, about nine o'clock, we reached a well to our great joy. But the water was so bad that we could not drink much, as it was as usual, dirty and brackish. but of the first draft I shall never forget the delight. When I tried a second, could not take it. The taste was so very nauseous. On looking round we saw some goats. Julio went towards them, and then discovered some fowls,

proceeded a little farther and found an inhabited cottage. He came and gave us the joyful intelligence. We determined to remain here to rest, if the people could give us any hopes of food for our horses. I found an elderly one. woman and her two daughters in the hut. The father was not at home. The old woman seemed quite astonished to hear that we had crossed the Sierra Mierrein. She said she did not know how soon she and her family might be obliged to leave their cottage, as many others had done. She directed the

major and my people to Adele at some distance, where dry grass and leaves might perhaps still be picked up. She said that it was the last place which could have any, for travelers did not general know of it, and she and her husband made a point of not discovering it. But I paved the way by making her a present of some farina, hurrying maize to the fowls, and by pouring in an immense number of minia seignoras. I had purchased a kid and a fowl and laid down the money immediately. Person's circumstances, as these were, are sometimes robbed in a most unpardonable manner by travelers, who take advantage of their houses, eat their poultry, and leave them without paying.

but considering the entire non-existence of law in these regions i am only surprised that greater enormities are not committed however every man feels it to be his own case he has a house and a family is where that on going from home those he may leave will be in the same helpless state these persons and their property were at the mercy of any travellers if they had been murdered and the cottage from being deserted began to fall it would have been supposed that its inhabitants like many others had decamped, and no inquiry would be made about the direction they had taken, such as the rambling disposition of the people in general, and the state of this part of the country, at the period of which I speak. They have nothing to make them remain upon one spot, neither comfort nor security. In the afternoon we advanced as usual and passed some deserted cottages, but towards the close of the day arrived at some that were inhabited, and at dusk put up near to two or three that stood together, after having crossed the Sierra Mirim for the last

and forty-second time. This river takes its sources from the mountains to the northward, in the same direction as those of the river Azou, of which I shall have occasion to speak. The Sierra Meirim falls into the Pothengi, and perhaps some branches have been their course as far as the Paribaba. The face of the country presents one continued flat, from Pai'erim, and perhaps some branches of it bend their course as far as the Paribahibah. The face of the country presents one continued flat, from Pa Paolo to the place at which we left the river. The soil is loose sand, which is sometimes, though rarely, intermixed with black earth. The trees are thinly scattered, and at the time that I traveled were without leaves. The river winds like the coils of a serpent.

To have followed them would have been endless. It sometimes fills, after heavy rain in the course of a very short time. the water coming down in a torrent, delayed only by the inequality of the depth of the channel, and the walls with which the rocks in some parts oppose its progress. The sand in the bed of the river is little different from that of which the banks are composed, being however on the whole thicker and approaching nearer to gravel. The water which oozes from it, on digging into the sand, is in all parts brackish, and in some places is too salt for any use to be made of it.

This is not, however, peculiar to the Sierra Merrim, for I found that all the beds of the rivers, which become dry in the summer, contain more or less salt. At best, the water taken from them was never quite sweet. The place at which we had arrived is reckoned to be distant forty leagues from Natal. The league of the Certan is never less than four miles, and is often much more. There are Legos Granges, Legos Pekenas, and Legos de Nada, or Nothing Leagues, which I have found quite long enough, notwithstanding their encouraging name. Pao Paulo may be about eight or ten leagues from Natal, which makes the Travecia or Baran Crossing 30 or 32 leagues. We advanced at about three miles within the hour, or rather

more, and traveled from half-past five to ten in the morning, and in the afternoon, and in the afternoon from two or half past two to six o'clock. We now reached again the habitations of man. It was still the same burnt-up appearance, but the wells were taken care of. The water was better, and grass, although it was dry, was still to be had. I intended to accompany the major, part of the way to his home, or the whole, but it was necessary that I should be guided by circumstances, by the accounts we heard of of the state of the country. We advanced in our usual manner, resting more at midday, traversing a dead flat and passing two or three fashendas or cattle estates each day, of which the livestock looked very miserable, and the people half-starved.

After being with a major four days, since we had left the Sierra Meirim, I saw that it would not be prudent to proceed farther. The accounts from the interior were bad, and we arrived at one estate, of which the cattle were all dying, and the people intending there was no rain very soon to leave their houses. I now judge myself to be distant from the coast not less than two hundred miles. We had advanced northward and westward, and were therefore not far to the southward of Azul, but were to the westward of it. I now resolved to make for it, for my horses might fail, and all the country was in so bad a state,

that we might not have found others in a proper condition, to go on with us. In fact, as I was not acting from orders, but merely for my own amusement, and as the guide was afraid of proceeding, I did not think I was authorized and persevering. If I had orders for the purpose, the case would have been altered, and I must have run all hazards. Here also, desertion was easier in the night, as the country was comparatively inhabited towards azou, and the difficulty was in advancing, and not in retreating. Each cattle estate has a tolerably decent house, which the owner or herdsman resides, and usually a few smaller habitations are scattered about upon the plain around it. The pen stand near to the principal house, and enable the travellers to distinguish immediately, although at some distance, the site of a fazenda.

I heard of a strange custom existing in these parts of the country that are so thinly inhabited, which arises from the state of things. certain priests obtain a license from the bishop of Pernambuco, and travel through these regions with a small altar constructed for the purpose of a size to be placed upon one side of a pack saddle, and they have, with them, all their apparatus for saying mass, thus with a horse conveying the necessary paraphernalia and a boy to drive it, who likewise assists in saying mass, and another horse on which the priest himself rides and carries his own small Port Mondeau. These men make in the course of the year between 150 and 200 pounds a large income in Brazil, but hardly earn if the inconveniences and privations which they must undergo to obtain it are taken into consideration. They stop and erect the altar

wherever a sufficient number of persons who are willing to pay for the mass is collected. This will sometimes be said for three or four shillings. But at other times, if a rich man takes a fancy to a priest or has a fit of extreme devotion upon him, he will give eight or ten mill heirs, two or three pounds. And it does happen that one hundred mil haze are received for saying a mass, but this is very rare. At times an ox or a horse, or two or three are given. These men have their use in the world. This custom did not exist. All form of worship would be completely out of the reach of the inhabitants of many districts. Or at any rate, they would not be able to attend more than once or twice in the course of a year.

For it must be remembered that there is no church within twenty or thirty leagues of some parts. Besides, where there is no law nor real rational religion, anything is better than nothing. They christen and marry, and thus preserve these necessary forms of religion, and prevent a total forgetfulness of the established rules of civilized society. A sufficient lake is kept up to make any of these people if they removed into more populous districts conformed to received ideas. End of Chapter 6, Part 1 Chapter 6 Part 2 of Traffles in Brazil, Volume 1 by Henry Koster. This Cibrovox recording is in the public domain.

I left the Major to pursue his journey homewards whilst I retreated, or rather advance, in a contrary direction, but a retreat it was from this inhospitable region. Footnote. Between two and three years after this journey, I heard again of my friend the major. I'd become acquainted with a man who resided at the foot of the Sierra de Chera, which is beyond the estates of the major's father. The old colonel was killed by a bull before his own door. The animal had been driven into a small enclosure and become mad from feeling himself confined. It was necessary to bring him to the ground, which is done in a peculiar manner, by running a short iron prong into a certain part of the thigh.

The herdsmen were afraid and wished to let the beast have time to cool and become less violent. The old man, who was between 70 and 80 years of age, told them that if they were afraid, he would attack him, and immediately entered the enclosure. But before he could prepare to receive the bull, and while he was still leaning against the palings, the animal was, ran at him and fixed his horns through the old man's body, with sufficient force to run them into the palings, and in such a manner that before he could extricate himself, one of the herdsmen ran a long knife into his head between the horns and brought him to the ground. But the old man lost his life. End footnote. We found no change during that day, and if we had not met with a

good-natured herdsman, should have fared very badly for want of water, unless we had seen some other person equally well disposed. I asked him the way to the nearest estate, which he told me, and then I made inquiries about water, to which he answered that, unless I was acquainted with the place, I should not find the well. In this part of our conversation ended by his turning back to show it to me, regardless of thus increasing his journey four or five miles. I asked him when we arrived at the well to stay and dine with me, for although I had no great dainties to offer, still he carried only what provision. his borough-a-acas contain. These are small leathern bags,

one of which hangs on each side of the saddle. He would not, however, dismount, and immediately turned his horse and went his way. My guide had remained behind, as his horse was rather lame, and now he joined us. We passed over some stony ground, and the well itself was situated among rocks,

between two of which the horses passed and descended to it. I may give some description of my friend, who turned back to show me the well, and this may be taken as the usual appearance of a traveling Certanehio. He rode a small horse with a long tail and mane. His saddle was rather raised before and behind. His stirrups were of rusty iron, and his bit was of the same. The reins were two very narrow thongs. His dress consisted of long pantaloons or leggings, of tan but undressed leather, of a rusty brown color, which were tied tight round his waist. And under these are worn a pair of cotton drawers or trousers, as the seed is left unprotected by the leather. He had a tan goat-skin

over his breast, which was tied behind by four strings, and a jacket also made of leather, which is generally thrown over one shoulder. His hat was of the same, with a very shallow crown and small brim. He had slip-shot slippers of the same color and iron spurs upon his naked heels. These straps which go under the feet prevent the risk of losing the slippers. A long whip of twisted thongs hung from his right wrist. He had a sword by his side, hanging from a belt over one shoulder. His knife was in his girdle and his short dirty pipe in his mouth. Fastened to his saddle behind was a piece of red bays rolled up in the form of a great coat, and this usually contains a hammock and a change of linen, a shirt and drawers,

and perhaps a pair of Nanking pantaloons. His borough-acas hung also on each side of the back of his saddle, and these generally contained farina and dried meat on one side, and on the other a flint and steel, dried leaves serve as tender, tobacco and a spare pipe. To this equipment is sometimes added a large pistol, thrust partly under his left thigh, and thus secured. The usual pace of the Certanaiso's horse is a walk, approaching to a short trot, so that the horses of these people often have acquired the habit of dragging their hind legs and throwing up the dust. The usual color of the Certanaisos is a dark brown, for even those who are born white soon become as completely tanned as the dress which they wear

from exposure to the sun. At one of the estates I heard an anecdote, which is illustrative of the neglect or the impossibility on all occasions of conforming to religious duties. A priest on passing was requested by the wife of the owner of the place to stay for the purpose of baptizing her son. He consented to this, but after waiting some time, said that he wished to proceed on his journey,

and therefore desired that the child might be brought to him. the woman answered pray await a short time longer as the boy has taken horses to water and will soon return the priest was surprised but was still more astonished when he was required to christen a fellow of thirteen or fourteen years of age the next deal was still proceeded over the same sort of ground in part stony and where stony it was rather hilly but not sufficiently so to form a decided ridge of hills john was at night taken suddenly at the same sort of ground in part stony and where stony it was rather hilly but not sufficiently so to form a decided ridge of hills john was at night taken suddenly ill. He had drank too much water, and would not mix any spirit with it, neither would he smoke. I considered smoking as almost absolutely necessary for the preservation of health on these occasions. It is generally practiced among the people of the country, and indeed many of the women are as fond of it as their husbands. Towards the morning the man recovered. The following day we reached at ten o'clock the estate of St. Lucia, it is situated upon a wide plain,

similar to those upon which we had been traveling for many days. This is a campina and not a tabloero. There were no trees upon it, excepting a few near to the well. The sight of this place raised our spirits, for there was no want of water nor of grass, though it was completely dry. The lots, lotes, of mares, came down to drink,

all in fine condition, followed and protected by the master horse of each lot. The cattle, the sheep, and every other living thing, seemed to enjoy, and to be conscious of the abundance of which they were reaping the advantage. We load it near to the well under the trees. The house of the chief herdsman stood before us, distant about 100 yards upon rather higher ground, was a low whitewashed cottage, with the stables, pens, etc., on each side. Without twelve o'clock I saw some men employed in milk and goats. I sent Julio with a half-gord for some milk, desiring him to offer payment,

The guide cautioned me not to do so, but still I ordered Julio to present the money. The milk came, but the money was not taken. And soon afterwards, three of the men came down towards us. I thanked for the milk, and they addressed me, saying that they wished to know if I had intended to insult them, by offering payment, as such things were not customary in their country. The guide had told me I should affront them, and therefore I had brought this upon myself, but I put them in good humor by answering that they would pardon my mistake when I told them that I belonged to a country in which we were obliged to purchase the sand with which we scoured our houses. Then they said that the boy, on going for the milk, had mentioned that there was an Englishman in company whom they wished much to see, as it was a bee-shoe, an animal, they had never seen.

I said that he was gone with the horses and would soon return. I met John, however, the guide soon told them. them that I was an Englishman. Their countenances showed much disappointment when they were persuaded that this was true. They had expected to see some strange beast. John soon came, and he certainly was a curiosity, for he did not speak Portuguese, and when anything went wrong, he swore away in English, at which they were all astonishment. They said he speaks the Negro language. Footnote, Fala a language in Negro. End footnote. They sat upon the ground near to my hammock, and asked me of the news from Pernambuco,

for they cared about nothing more distant. I was acquainted at Hesifi with the owner of the place, which I made them confident was the case by describing his house and garden, and they asked me after him, etc. The conversation concluded by an offer of horses to proceed, and on their return to the house, a present of dried meat was sent. Thus I was in the end a gainer by offering to pay for the milk, but I was more careful ever after. From St. Lucia we proceeded across the plain, expecting to reach a lake, of which the guide had some recollection, but when the night had already closed in, we were still upon the same endless plain,

over which the track was only marked by the sand upon it being more worn away. Consequently, it might easily be lost at night. The lake at which we had entertained hopes of arriving never becomes entirely dry in the summer, but there was only one place at which it could be crossed, therefore it would be dangerous to reach its borders in the dark. The plain presented no tempting lodging. There were several rocks upon it of different sizes, but no trees, and the wind blew hard. The guide dismounted to feel if there was any of the long grass, where we were. On not finding it, he walked to the left of the road, but was not successful. He then tried to the right, and found some. We only discovered his situation by the sound of his voice.

He called and we answered several times, until at last we joined him. He had also discovered a large rock, under the lee of which we unloaded, and then lighted our fire, and fettered the horses to feed. We soon found that to cook any victuals was impossible, for the wind scattered our fire, which was only formed of the branches of the small shrubs and briars that grow upon these plains. Water we had by accident, as the guide had brought a small skin of it, in case he should be thirsty during the afternoon, for we had made ourselves quite certain of reaching the lake by night. I slept upon two of our packages under the lee of the rock, and the whole party did the same, sharing as equally as possible are scanty means of accommodation.

This afternoon I had seen many rocks of remarkable forms. One particularly struck me as extraordinary, was placed upon another of much smaller dimensions, and the resting point was so small as to render its removal apparently easy, but on trial it had not the slightest motion. The discomfort of this night was great, caused chiefly by the violence of the wind. We had at last no fire, all was dark around us,

and we could scarcely make ourselves heard. The horses seemed to feel as much as we did, the unsheltered situation. They were near to us during the whole night. On continue our journey the following morning, we discovered that we had halted within half a league of the lake. The water was all gone, but the ground was boggy and not to be crossed, accepting at the place over which is the usual path. It extends to the right and left to a considerable distance, but is not broad.

If the mud was cleared away, it might perhaps afford. an inexhaustible source of water to the neighborhood, but Brazil is not in a state for such works. Hands in these parts are not yet sufficiently numerous. In the afternoon we crossed some stony hills and passed by two fazendas this day observed at some distance a high hill of a circular form, standing quite alone and unconnected with any other high ground. Its sides appeared to be too steep for horses to ascend, and I much regret not being so situated as to be enabled to delay for the purpose of taking a nearer and more exact view of it. The guide was surprised at my curiosity about it, and told me that horses could not go up its sides, that there were snakes upon it,

etc. All this might be true, but it was evidently said to prevent any intention I might have had of delaying to see it more correctly. The plane appeared in many parts. The plane appeared in many parts, as if the sea had at some time covered it, the dead flat, the sand in places mixed with particles of a substance which looked like broken shells, and the rocks worn away in such parts as, from their situation, could not have been acted upon by rain. We slept this night at an estate where there were several houses forming a hamlet, having passed through a considerable quantity of wooded land. The next morning we again proceeded over some lands that were covered, with wood, and near twelve o'clock reached the town of Asul. Oh, the joy of again seeing a church

of the sight of a regular village and civilized persons, if even these could be called civilized, according to European ideas. The country I passed over from Natal never can in any state of civilization, or from any increase of population, be rendered a fertile tract. But it might be, without doubt, much improved, if proper wells were sunk, reservoirs made for rainwater, and trees planted. Much might be done. The plains I crossed are of three kinds, those of which the soil is a loose sand, producing the accaju, the mangaba, and several kinds of palm or cabbage trees. Upon them, the grass is short and of a kind which is not reckoned nourishing. In these situations are likewise produced several creeping plants, similar to those growing,

growing upon the common lands, near the seashore in England, and the trees are thinly scattered. The fruit of the accaju, or cashew tree, and of the Mangaba, are most delightful and are doubly acceptable in crossing the sands upon which they are to be met with. The former has been often described. The latter is a small round fruit, and is not unlike a crab-apple in appearance, but it is sweet and is unfit to be eaten until it drops from the tree. The pulp is fibrous but soft, and three seeds or kernels are contained in it, of which the taste approaches that of almonds. The palm or cabbage trees also afford fruits, which are eaten when other food fails, but they are insipid. These plains are the taboleros, of which there exists also another kind, which are covered with brushwood of stinted height from the nature of the soil,

but it is close and higher than a man on horseback. The road lies in many places through it, but as it does not afford any shade and prevents the wind from alleviating the intenseness of the heat, it is here that the power of the sun is fully felt. This brushwood is, however, not too thick to prevent cattle from breaking their way through it and feeding among it.

The third description of plains are those of a better kind of soil, which produce good nourish and grass, but upon these no trees grow, small shrubs and briars alone are to be seen, and oftentimes not even these. They are in parts stony, and have rising ground upon them, which is not sufficiently high to deserve the name of a ridge of hills, but it is enough to break the ocean-like flatness and immensity which these plains sometimes present to the traveller. After proceeding for hours, the same distance still seems to remain for him to traverse.

these are the campinas i passed over some spots covered with high trees which in our own country would be called woods of considerable extent but in brazil they could not be accounted of sufficient magnitude to compose a distinguishing feature in the naked regions which i traversed the impression which a recollection of this portion of land left upon my mind is of a flat uncovered country i heard very little of beasts of prey they had removed to better districts, I suppose, nor were we much trouble with snakes. But my people never failed in taking up our quarters to look well around, which proves their frequent appearance, else this cautious behavior would not have become habitual to them. I merely say that they are not plentiful in this barren part, for elsewhere near lakes and large pools of water in fertile districts. The rattle of the snake, of which this is a distinguishing mark, is often heard.

we saw a small kind of rabbit near rocky ground which is called mocco the carapato or tick and the chiqua had entirely disappeared since we left the dry lake near natal the chiqua has been so often described that a minute account of it is in this place is unnecessary it is a very small insect which lodges itself principally under the nails of the feet in the country bordering upon the sea it is to be found most abundantly in sandy districts, and yet, although the plains of the Sertan appear to be formed of the same kind of sand, the insect is not to be met with in the whole tract of country between Natal and Aracati. We arrived at Asu on the 1st of December, having traveled about 340 miles in 19 days. The continual anxiety in which I was kept prevented me from keeping any regular journal of my proceedings. From Asu to Arachee, I have preserved the name.

of the places through which I passed. The country is more inhabited, and I was nearer the coast. I traveled also with more ease, but between Natal and Asu, accepting the deserted Pa Paolo, I did not pass any settlement, which deserved even the name of village. Single cottages, much separated from each other, and often uninhabited, contained the whole population of this district. It is a miserable, desolate country. The town of Asu is built in a square and consists of about 300 inhabitants. It is two churches in a town hall and a prison at that time building. The governor was the promoter of the work.

The place stands upon the great river of Assou, where it runs in two channels for a short distance. It is situated upon the northern bank of the smaller branch. There is an island of sand between the two branches, and the distance from whence the river is divided to where it is again, United, is about two or perhaps three miles. We crossed their dry beds and entered the square, which is not paved, and the sand is deep. Many of the inhabitants were at their doors, for all travellers are objects of curiosity, and our appearance increased it. I rode upon an English saddle, and this particularly attracted the notice of an equestrian people.

The houses have only the ground floor. Some of them are plastered and whitewashed, but the The mud of which others are composed remains in its natural color, both within and without, and the floors also are of earth, so that in spite of the greatest care, when water is scarce, their inhabitants cannot keep themselves clean. Though the lower class of Brazilians, of all cast, have many dirty customs, allied to those of savage life, still they are remarkably clean in their persons. One of the greatest inconveniences of a situation, when a Brazilian complaints of the place he happens to reside in, is the want of a river or pool of water in the

neighborhood for the purpose of bathing. We inquired for the house of a man of color, a sadler by trade, with whom my guide was acquainted. This person, like many others, had come to his door to see the travelers. He soon recognized his friend and came forward to speak to him. He procured a house for us during our stay. It was a small place upon which neither plaster nor white wash had been bestowed, with two rooms, one opening to the square, and the other to the river. When we were a little settled and I addressed myself, I sallied forth to visit the vicar, who resided in the best or rather least miserable-looking habitation in the town, was about the size of the cottages of laborers or small farmers in England, but not nearly

so comfortable, though the floors were brick. It is true that this climate does not demand, much as those of bleaker regions, that necessary of an English dwelling, of English growth, that undefinable something called comfort. I told him I had called upon him as the first person of the neighborhood, and that I should always be happy in my proceedings to have the prayers and good wishes of his order, and particularly his, as the governor had spoken so very highly of him. Some further conversation passed between us, but I did not stay long, for I was much tired. I made arrangements for sending my horses towards Piatto, where grass was to be had, and the green stalks of maize, sugar cane, and other plants. But the guide recommended that we should

not stay here longer than was necessary. He said that whilst the horses continued on their journey, they would bear up very well, but if they were suffered to rest, they would become stiff, loose flesh, and be rendered entirely unfit for service for a considerable time. i did not then quite believe him but as there was no object in staying i desired hulio to return with him to assu the next day at two o'clock that we and they might have at any rate a rest of twenty-four hours i afterwards learnt by experience that the guide was quite right regarding the horses that regular work is better than a rest of more than one whole day our friend the saddler among other stories mentioned having passed over the same ground which we had traversed from St. Lucia, only a short time before us. He was in company with another man and a boy, and had also a dog with him. They had put up for the night under shelter of one of the rocks in the vicinity of the lake of which I have spoken. His companion had taken the horses to some

little distance to graze. The boy and the dog remained with him. He made a fire and was in the act of preparing some dried meat to be cooked. When the boy called out, where is the dog? The man answered, here he is, why, what is the matter? The boy said, what eyes then are those, pointing at the same time to the corner of the rock? The man looked and saw the eyes, for nothing else was to be seen. He called to the dog, took up his fowling piece, and fired, whilst the dog started up and darted toward the spot. A jaguar rushed out and made off. It had been partly concealed under the rock, which, with the dazzle of the fire, had prevented its body from being seen. It had crouched and was ready for a spring when everything was quiet and unprepared.

I learnt that there is some extensive salt-works at the mouth of the Azul, and that small craft come from different parts of the coast occasionally to carry away the over-plus. I took an additional guide here, as the man I had brought with me from Guyana, was not acquainted with the remainder of the road. But I kept him with me, for although he was not a person I liked, still he was master of his employment. He managed the horses well, for they had, through his attention and knowledge of the business, all arrived here without sore backs, which I found, from the surprise expressed by all those who saw them, was not a usual piece of good fortune,

or good management. He was, however, a great bully when we quartered ourselves in the houses of poor people, with whom he found he could so act with impunity. He was also continually reporting that I was a great personage that he might increase his own importance. Of this I said nothing, but on our return whilst I was unwelled, he gave himself out as the chief of the party, which I once caught him in the act of doing. I disconcerted him by threatening to turn him out of my service, and when I recovered he took care to draw in and be more careful who overheard him. The additional man I took with me was a dark-colored mulatto, young and stout. His father lived at Asu, and this son had a fair character. He brought with him the

beautiful dog, which I afterwards possessed. The next day, Julio came with the horses, and between three and four o'clock in the afternoon. We left Asu. End of Chapter 6, Part 2. Chapter 7, Part 1, From Travels in Brazil by Henry Costa. This Libravox recording is in the public domain. Chapter 7, Part 1 Continuation of the Journey From Azou to Arachachi, From Arachee to Sierra,

Indians, the late governor, the family of the Fetosas. Our way was through woodlands for about one league when we came out upon the borders of the Lake Piatto. We proceeded along them for another half-le-a-half-le-house. league, and unload it near to the Casa de Paglia, or Straw Cottage, of the Commodon of the district. Piatu is a lake of three leagues in length, and about one league in breath. In the summer, its sides become sufficiently dry to allow them to be cultivated, but the center of it is

invariably marshy and impassable. The fertility of its sides is very great, affording most plentifully, rice, maize, sugar cane, melons, etc. And I saw some cotton trees planted very near to the edge. The lake is filled from the river in the rainy seasons, and as the lands around it are much higher than the lake itself, the waters which run down from them wash away all vestiges of cultivation, till these again subside, and the same operations are continued the following season. In such dreadfully severe years as that during which I traveled, the people of the district would be starved if this lake did not exist. It enabled the inhabitants of Azou, at the time I was there, to remain in their houses. The appearance of abundance, the bright green, the well-fed horses and

cattle which we saw, as we traveled along the banks, enlivened us all. There was a look of security, a seeming certainty of at least the necessaries of life. Let what would happen, which we had not for a long time felt. The parched hills which surround the lake its beautifully cultivated borders, and the dark and dangerous bogs which compose its center and prevent the communication of the inhabitants of either bank, formed a very extraordinary scene. No water was to be seen,

but the mud was too deep and not of sufficient consistence for a man to be enabled to wait across, nor could a passage to the other side be affected by means of a raft, for a very trifling weight would make it sink. We unloaded under a small tree on rising ground with the lake on our right. Between us and the house of the commandant, there was a deep ravine, down which in the rainy season the waters rushed from the hills. This ravine was under cultivation and was enclosed, a narrow path only being left across from where we had stationed ourselves to the hut on the opposite hill, which was entirely composed of wood and the leaves of the karnahubah and other kinds of cabbage trees. This was only a temporary habitation for the summer

months, the usual residence of the owner being at Hasou. He had a large family, who were all very shy. Indeed the females I scarcely saw, though they sometimes did peep at the Englishmen, not knowing until now that these were truly and bona fide nothing but men. I was this afternoon surprised at a feat of dexterity of one of the commandant's sons, a boy of about fourteen years of age. I'd often heard of the manner of catching a wild cattle in the Certown. The person employed for the purpose pursues on horseback with a long pole, having a goad at one end, the animal which he is desirous of bringing to the ground, until he overtakes it. He then pierces its side between the ribs and the hip-bone, which, if it be done at the moment

the beast raises its hind feet from the ground, throws it with such violence as sometimes to make it roll over. Some oxen have often trespassed upon the commonance maze. One of the boys could no longer bear this quietly. He therefore mounted one of his father's horses, of which there were several very fine ones, took one of the long poles, and set off without a saddle, and in his shirt and drawers, to attack the animals. He drove them out at the maze, reached one of them with a goat at the right moment, and threw it down. But before he could turn his horse, another had attacked him, running its horns into the fleshy part of one of the horse's thighs. The boy had taken the precaution of putting a bridle onto his horse, otherwise if he had

mount it with a halter only, he would most probably have suffered much more. One of his brothers came to his assistance and drove the oxen quite away. The facility with which the beast was thrown proved that practice and quickness were more requisite than strength in this operation. Towards the evening a shower of rain came on, being the first we had since we left Guyana, and indeed this was the only rain which fell during my journey between Guyana and Sierra. however there is not usually much wet weather at this season of the year the distress occasion by the want of it arose from the failure of the accustomed rains in the preceding winter we were moved to the hut across the ravine leaving the greatest part of our baggage under the tree but the shower did not continue long the hut was too small to admit of our taking up our lodging for the night in it and in case of rain the tree was too far from the hut to reach it in time to prevent

being wet. For which reason I determined to sleep in the ravine close to the fence, at the foot of the hill upon which the hut stood. I made a bed for myself upon two packages, two windward of the fire which we had kindled, but multitudes of mosquitoes rose about midnight, which obliged me to remove and lie down upon a hide to leeward. The fire was mostly composed of the dried ordoer of cattle, the smoke of which is so thick and pungent as to prevent entirely any annoyance from these troublesome insects. But the remedy is bad enough, as it is almost impossible to open your eyes or to speak. The misery being exposed to the myriads of mosquitoes which hovered around us this night made us choose the smoke as the more endurable evil. None of us slept much, for attention to the

fire has obliged everyone to be on the alert. Towards morning, the smoke was scarcely sufficient to protect us from these tormenting insects. I now learnt that, near to any lake or pool of water, the highest ground is always to be fixed upon for a night station. Even the commandant upon the hill had fires to windward of the house during the whole of the night. Early in the morning, we continued our journey for some distance along the banks of the lake, and then entered upon some open land, which was now quite dry. We slept under a clump of trees, distant about twenty miles from Piatu. The cattle we saw this day were in good condition, plainly showing that the country enjoyed a plentiful supply of water. The road of the next day led us through woodlands, and over loose stony ground,

but the woods of this part of the country are not large and luxuriant. They have not the grandeur of the forests of Pernambuco, nor is the brushwood which grows under them so close and thick. We passed through some estates, of which the livestock seemed in good condition, and saw this day a whole drove or lot, loche, of cream-colored mares. I asked for water to drink at one of the houses. Some was brought to me by a pretty white girl, who was apparently about seventeen years of age. She talked a great deal, and in a lively manner. so as to show that she had inhabited more civilized regions. There were in the house two children of color, which she told me were hers. She was the daughter of a man of small property,

who had married her, contrary to her wishes, to a wealthy mulatto man. She gave a message to the guide to deliver to her husband, who was superintending the felling of some timber by the roadside, along which we were to pass. We met with him. He was of a dark complexion, and about 40 years of age. I learned her story from the Azou guide. He said it had made some noise in these parts at the time. In the afternoon we passed over a salt marsh, surrounded by great numbers of Karnahuba trees. We bordered the marsh, looking for a crossing, and entered it, where we found the footsteps of others who had recently passed. The mud was from 12 to 18 inches deep where we crossed, but it was in some parts impassable. The salt had coagulated wherever the footsteps of a horse had formed an opening in the mud

and had collected a small quantity of water. The breath of the march might be about 200 yards in the center, and it's blanked about one league. After leaving the marsh, we reached the tabolero, upon which we were to sleep. Towards evening the wind was high. I was riding as if I had been seated upon a side saddle, with both my legs on the same side of the horse, and with my umbrella over my head to shade me from the heat of the sun. A sudden gust of wind took me in my umbrella, and landed us in the sand, to the no small entertainment of my companions. If the horse had gone off, I should have been awkwardly situated, but he had traveled too many leagues to be frightened at trifles such as these. We continued traveling for two days over the same kind of ground. Plains with trees

thinly scattered and spots of wooded land. We likewise crossed two salt marshes, but upon these there was no mud. The water which oozes from the land on digging into it is, however, salt, but the soil was dry and hard. Mimosa, the dog belonging to my new guide, afforded us considerable amusement. She generally made her way through the wood at a little distance from the road, now and then returning to the path. She was very expert in discovering the tattoo bola, or rolling tattoo, a small species of armadillo. This animal is protected by its bony shell. On being touched, it rolls itself up in the manner of a hedgehog.

As soon as the dog saw one of these, she touched it with her nose and bark, continuing the same operation as often as the armadillo attempted to move, until her master answered. or the well-known signal. Several were caught in this manner. The flesh is as fine as that of a young pig. The Tatu Veradero, or legitimate armadillo, which is much larger, does not roll itself up, and Mimosa sometimes pursued it to its whole, and stood at the mouth of it until she had her master's permission to come away. There exists a third species of armadillo called the Tatu Peda, which is said to feed upon human flesh. On the 7th of December we arrived at 10 o'clock in the morning at the village of St. Lucia,

containing from 2 to 300 inhabitants. It is built in a square and has one church. The houses are small and low. Here I was able to replenish my spirit bottles and to purchase a supply of hapadores. These are cakes of brown sugar or treacle boiled to a sufficient consistency to harden, by which means it is more portable and much less liable to be wasted in its conveyance. The day before we reached St. Lucia, our resting place at midday was under some trees, and not far from a cottage. I observed the skin of a jaguar, the Onza Pintada, and the language

of the country, stretched upon several pieces of wood. It had the appearance of being quite fresh. I had afterwards some conversation with a cottager, and he told me that he, had killed the animal to which the skin had belonged, with the assistance of three dogs, only the day before. It had committed great destruction, particularly among the sheep, but had escaped for a length of time, from never appearing at the same place twice successively. The preceding day this man had gone out with his three dogs, as was occasionally his practice. His musket was loaded, but he was without any farther supply of ammunition, and he had his long knife and his girth and his girlfriend. One of the dogs got sent to the jaguar and followed it up to the den.

The beast was within. The dogs attacked it. One of them was killed and another much maimed, which we saw, and even the third was hurt. The man fired as soon as the jaguar came out and wounded it, and when he saw that it was considerably disabled, he ran in upon the animal with his knife and killed it. In doing which one of his arms was much lacerated, and this was bound up at the time I conversed with him. He asked for some powder, saying that there was still another jaguar in the neighborhood.

The skins are much valued in Brazil for saddlecloths, and from the make of the saddles used in that country, a cloth of some sort or a skin is required for each. I have the skin of a jaguar in my possession, which measures five feet and three inches. The Onsa Vermella, Feliz con color, and the Onsa Preta, Felis Discolor, are also to be met. with, but the jaguar is more common and more dreaded than either of these. The same day we passed over the dry bed of the Panama, it was the third river we had crossed since our departure from Assou, and all were in the same state. St. Lucia stands upon the northern bank of a dry river, in a sandy, loose soil. We took up our midday station under the roof of a

miserable hut. The ashes of an extinguished fire in its center, and a bench of twisted twigs, alone denoted that it had served as a dwelling. Several of the inhabitants of the village soon came to us to inquire for news from Pernambuco, and among others a young man whose accent discovered him to be a native of some of the northern provinces of Portugal, and whose manner displayed the idea which he entertained of his own importance. He said that he had orders from the command my passport, to which I answered that if the commandant had wished to see the passport, he would certainly have sent one of his officers to ask for it. The young man rejoined that he was the sergeant of the district. I said that I did not doubt the truth of what he said, but that I could

not know him in that capacity, because, instead of being in uniform, he had appeared in the usual dress of shirt and drawers. And I added that his manner was such that I had resolved not to show it to him at all. He said I must and should show it. I turned to Julio and asked him if he had heard what the man said. Julio answered, yes, sir, never mind. Footnote, deschestar my amo. End footnote. The sergeant went off, and we prepared our arms, much to the amazement and amusement of some of the more peaceable inhabitants. I soon saw him again, and he was coming toward us with two or three other persons. I called to him, to keep at a distance, telling him that Julio would fire if he did not. This he judged advisable to do, and, as I thought it proper and prudent to advance as soon as possible, we left the place soon after

one o'clock, with a broiling sun. Therefore we saw no more of the sergeant. The dry river upon which this village stands divides the captaincies of Hiro-Granji in Sierra. Consequently, there was much reason for the commandant's demand of my passport, but it was necessary to preserve the high opinion generally entertained of the name of English, Englishmen, wherever the people possess sufficient knowledge to understand that the said Englishes were not bishus or animals, and also to keep up my own importance with the persons about me. It would not have answered to have thus given way to a man who was inclined to make me feel the consequence which he judged his place would allow him to assume. If I had been invited to the Commandant's house in a civil way,

or if the sergeant had come to me in his uniform, all would have gone well. These trifles, though apparently of no importance, weigh very heavily with persons who have made such small advances towards civilization. Public opinion is everything. If the idea of my being a Bishu and a heretic had not been counterbalanced by that of rank and consequence, I might have had the whole village upon me. and have been deserted by my own people into the bargain. The general features of the captaincy of Hiro-Granji may be laid down as displaying tolerable fertility to the southward of Natal,

and as having a barren aspect to the northward of it, excepting the banks in immediate neighborhood of the Potengi. We passed through the estate of Ilya, distant from St. Lucia one league and a half, and proceeded after taking water, four leagues beyond it, to an uninhabitable and unfinished house. The owner had commenced building during the rains at the former year, and had gone on with the work until the spring of water, near to the place, failed.

The house was tiled and spacious, but the woodwork only of the walls was erected. It had been the intention of this person to establish a fazenda here, but the failure of the spring of water would probably deter him from his purpose. The country from Ilya to Thibu, where we halted at noon on the following day, a distance of ten leagues was now without water. Two parties of travellers, besides our own, had taken up their nights lodging at this unfinished house. The several fires, the groups around them, some cooking, some eating, and others asleep, the pack-saddles and trunks strewed about, as they had been taken from the horse's backs, formed a scene worthy of a pain.

all was darkness around, and the wind blew fresh, for the house had no walls, and no obstruction to oppose its entrance, save the upright posts which supported the roof. The light of the fires sometimes flashed upon one or other of the countenances of the travellers, and on these occasions alone could I discover their colour, and consequently in some degree their rank. I might be in the company of slaves or of white men, for both would have taken up their night's station in the same manner. An old man of color addressed me asking if I was the Englishman who had rested at noon at St. Lucia. On my answering in the affirmative, he said that he was at the commonance at the time, and there were several debates about the mode of proceeding respecting me and mine,

that my determination not to give up my passport had caused some demour, and that among other suppositions of who I might be. One wise-acre said there was no knowing whether I was was not one of Bonaparte's ministers and what might be my diabolical plans. Indeed, I was often amused with the strange ideas which the country people entertained of distant nations, of which they had heard the names and perhaps some further particulars. These were altered in such a manner by their misapprehension that it was oftentimes difficult to discover what the real circumstances were which had been related to them. We traversed another salt marsh this afternoon, the marsh I have mentioned, as having crossed on the fourth of this month, was the only one

of that description which I met with. The others which I have spoken of, and those which I shall have occasion to mention, are dry, and the soil upon them in summer is hard. It is dark-colored and produces no grass, but upon the skirts of the marshes are seen several seaside plants, in the water that oozes from them is quite salt. Our road the next morning lay through brush-werews for three leagues over heavy sand and three leagues over a salt marsh. Near midday we passed a cottage which resided the herdsman of a fazenda, and immediately beyond, ascended the hill of heavy sand called Tibou, from which we again saw the sea. I can scarcely describe the sensations which were occasioned by this sight. I felt as if I was at home, as if free to act as I pleased. The spring of water near to

the cottage was dried up, but there was one on the opposite side of the sand hill which still afforded a small supply. We now took up our midday station under a miserable hut, erected at the summit of the hill by the inhabitants of the cottage for the purpose of curing their fish. They had fixed upon this spot from its height and consequent exposure to the wind. The descent to the seashore is steep, but not dangerous, as the depth of the sand prevents any apprehension of a horse falling and rolling down. The great length of the journeys of the two last days had almost knocked up the horse upon which my goyana god rode. I saw that the man was not inclined to walk for the purpose of easing the animal, and therefore wishing to see what could be done by example, I dismounted, and took off the greatest

part of my clothes, removed the bit from my horse's mouth, tied the bridle round his neck, and turned them loose among the others. This had the desired effect, and John also was then ashamed to be the only person on horseback. We advanced very quickly over the wet sands, past two fishermen's huts, distant from Thibu two leagues, and one league further turned up from the shore by a steep, sandy path, which took us to the hamlet of Areas, composed of one respectable-looking dwelling, and five or six straw huts. The lands we passed this afternoon, bordering the shore, are low and sandy, without trees and without cultivation. In seasons less severe than this, there is a small spring of water, not far from the fishermen's huts which we had passed,

but now it was entirely dried up. These huts stand near to a small piece of ground, of which the soil is less sandy than that in the neighborhood, and a crop of watermelons is usually obtained from it, which had, however, completely failed this year. On our arrival, arrival at Areas I made for the principal house and asked for a night's lodging. The front room was offered to me, upon which our horses were unloaded and our baggage put into it. I was surprised to see no elderly or middle-aged person belonging to this house. There were three or four boys only, of whom the oldest was about sixteen years of age, and he appeared to direct the concerns of the establishment. He had a piece of enclosed ground near to the house,

into which he allowed our horses to be turned. In this arrangement being made, I had then time to look round and see my quarters. Not a tree or shrub was to be seen in the neighborhood, but there were immense sand-hills on one side, and on the other, the sea. The convenience of the spot for fishing could alone have made these people fix upon it for a residence. I sent out to purchase a fowl, one was bought, for which I paid six hundred and forty haze, about three shillings, sixpence. Julio told me that he had seen some goats and kids, upon which I sent him to purchase one of the latter. He returned with a large one, for which the owner asked eighty haze, less than sixpence. A boy passed in the evening with a large turtle, which he begged the guy to

exchange for about one pound of the kid. The meat was given to him, but his turtle would have been of no use to us. Julio, when we went to purchase the kid, had heard a long story about a ghost which made its appearance in the house at which we had stationed ourselves, the persons from whom he heard it, had advised him to make me acquainted with the circumstance that I might move to some other place for the night. I began to suspect some trick and told my people my idea the sort of ghost we were likely to meet with.

I found that this cheered them, as by them shadows were more dreadful than for. flesh and blood. We slung our hammocks in different directions in a large room, and each took his arms and settled for the night. His sudden panic seized my additional guide, and he was sneaking out of the room, but I stopped him and said that I would send it back to his own country if he went out. The business was, however, settled by taking the key from the door. The story ran thus. The master and mistress of the house had been murdered by two of their slaves, and it was said that their ghosts occasionally took a walk in this room. Nay, it was even reported that the old gentleman used his gold-headed cane and woke with it those who slept in the house. We had not, however, the honor of his company,

and in the morning had much laughter that the fellow had been so dreadfully frightened. The country through which we proceeded on the morrow presented a more cheering appearance. We reached at a short distance from Arreyes, some enclosed lands, then passed over a salt marsh and arrived at Kajua'is, distant from Areas, two leagues. The place receives its name from the great number of acaju trees, and consists of six or seven huts. Here we dined, finding good water and abundance of maize stalks for our horses. There were some appearance of comfort and enjoyment of life, at least comparatively speaking. Beyond Kajua'i's three leagues, we slept near to a hut after traveling through some more cultivated ground.

I was asked by some persons at Kajouais at what place we had slept the preceding night. I answered at Areas. They then inquired in which house at Arreyes, as at that village there was none into which travelers could be received. I replied that on the contrary there was the great house, which I had found very comfortable. They were perfectly astonished at my sleeping in this haunted place, and for some time imagine that I was joking. Afterwards, on other occasions, I heard of the same story, which appeared to have taken deep root in the faith of all those who spoke of it. The next day, about five o'clock in the afternoon, we reached Arachachi, distant seven leaks

from where we had slept. Great part of this day's journey was through salt marshes or plains covered with the Kanauba, the tall naked stems of the palms, crowned with branches like the cocoa tree at the summon, which rustle with the least breath of air, and the bare and dark-colored soil upon which no grass grows, and rarely any shrub, give a dismal look to these plains. The computed distance from Azou to Arachachi is forty-five leagues. When I approached Arachee, I sent my Guyana guide forwards with a letter which I had received from the governor of Hiogranji to Señor Jose Fidelis Bahoso, a wealthy merchant and landed.

proprietor. On my arrival I found that the guide had delivered the letter, and that Señor Bahoso had given him the keys of an unoccupied house which I was to inhabit during my stay. The town of Arachachi consists chiefly of one long street, with several others of minor importance branching from it to the southward. It stands upon the southern bank of the river Jaguariba, which is so far influenced by the tide. At the ebb the stream is fordable, and as it spreads considerably from the main channel, some parts remain quite dry at low water. The houses of Arachachi, unlike those of any other small places which I visited, have one story above the ground floor. I inquired the reason of this, and was told that the floods of the

river were sometimes so great as to render necessary a retreat to the upper part of the houses. The town contains three churches and a town hall in prison, but no monasteries. This captaincy does not contain any such pest. The inhabitants are a number about 600. The house I was to occupy consisted of two good-sized rooms with large closets or small bedchambers leading from each called Alcovas and a kitchen. These were all above, and underneath there was a sort of warehouse.

To the back we had an oblong yard, enclosed by a brick wall with a gate at the farther end, by which our horses. entered, and here they remained until better arrangements could be made for them. I slung my hammock in the front room and desired that some fowls should be purchased as stock whilst we remained here. One was preparing for me when three black servants appeared from Señor Bohoso. The first brought a large tray with a plentiful and excellently cooked supper, wine, sweetmeats, etc. A second carried a silver ewer and basin and a French towel, and a third came to know of there was anything which I particularly wished for besides what had been prepared. This man took back

my answer, and the other two remained to attend until I had supped. I learnt from my guide afterwards that another tray had been sent for my people. I suppose that Signor Bohoso had thought proper to treat me in this manner on the day of my arrival, from an idea that I could not have arranged any means of cooking, etc., till the next day. But in the morning coffee and cakes were brought to me. and the same major domo came to know if all was to my liking. Whilst I remained at Arachachi, Senor Bahoso, provided everything for me and for my people, in the same handsome manner.

This treatment as usual where persons are well recommended. It is notable, and shows the state of manners among the higher orders. In the morning I received a visit from Senor Bahoso, whose manners were ceremonious and courtly. On my mentioning the inconvenience to which I was putting him by my stay, he said that he could not alter in any way his mode of treating me, because if he did, he should not do his duty to the governor of Hiogranji, to whom he owed many obligations, and consequently took every opportunity of showing his gratitude by all the means

and his power. The reason which he thus gave for his civility completely set at rest anything I could have said to prevent its continuance. He ordered all my horses to be taken to an island in the river, upon which there was plenty of grass. I'd resolved to send John back to Pernambuco by sea, and spoke to Signor Bohoso upon the subject, when he immediately said that one of his smacks was going, in which my servant might have a birth. John was out of health, and not adapted to the kind of life which we had been leading, and should be yet under the necessity of continuing. This day I remained at home, employing the greatest part of it in sleeping, and, In the evening returned Senor Pajosso's visit.

A white man with whom my Guyana guide was acquainted called upon me, and we arranged an expedition in a canoe for the next day to go down the river to its mouth. My guide's friend came as he had appointed, and his canoe was waiting for us. His two negroes pulled where the water was shallow, and paddled us along where it became deep. We passed several beautiful islands, some of which had cattle upon them, and others of which the land was too low to produce grass. The latter were entirely covered with mangroves, which grow likewise on the borders of the river,

the shores being clear of them only where settlements are formed, and the proprietors have extirpated them. The river is in parts about half a mile in breadth, and in some places where there are islands it is broader, taken from the outermost sides of the two branches, which it, in these situation, forms. The town is distant from the bar about, about eight miles. We board it, Senor Bohosa's smack, took the long boat belonging to it,

and proceeded to the bar, which is narrow and dangerous, owing to the sand-banks on each side. Upon these the surf is very violent. The sand is so loose at the mouth of the river, that the masters of the coasting vessels are obliged to use every precaution possible each voyage, as if they were entering a harbor with which they are unacquainted. The river widens immediately within the bar and forms rather a spacious bay. Even if no other obstacle presented itself, the port cannot, from the uncertainty of the depth of its entrance, ever become of any importance. Coasters alone can enter, and I understand that the sand and the river also accumulates. The sandbanks project from each side in some places so

much as to render the navigation, even for a boat somewhat difficult from a short distance above the Bay. Footnote. I heard in the beginning of the year 1815 that the bar had been completely choked up during a violent gale of wind from the sea, whilst two coasters were in the river, taking in cargoes for Pernambuco. End footnote. On our return, we dined at an estate upon the banks of the river, of which the owner was an acquaintance of the man who had proposed this party. opposite to the dwelling-house of this estate stands an island, which produces abundance of grass, but there is no fresh water upon it. This obliges the cattle that feed there regularly to pass over to the mainland every day to drink and return to the island, which they are so much accustomed to

do that no herdsman is necessary to compel them. We saw them swim across and all pass close to the house and their way to the pool. The owner said that the calves invariably took that side of their mothers to which the tide was running, to prevent being carried away in the force of the stream, and indeed I observed that all the calves took the same side. In the evening arrangements were made for the hire of two horses to carry me and one of my people to Sierra, leaving my own beast to rest for the journey back to Panambuco. I again called upon Signor Bohoso to make known to my plan, and he then gave me a letter to a gentleman with whom he was acquainted at Sierra, a guide for the journey.

was also procured. The horses were ready, and in the morning I set forth, accompanied by my Goyana guide and a man whom I had hired for this additional journey. He wrote a horse which he had been charged to take to Sierra. He was an old man, half mad and very amusing. We hailed the ferryman to take us across the river before daybreak, but as he did not answer, we took possession of a large canoe which lay empty and was tied to a post. We got into it, and the Guyana guide paddled us very dexterously to the middle of the river, where the canoe grounded. It had struck upon a sandbank, owing to the man being unacquainted with the navigation of the stream. We were obliged to undress and get into the water to push the canoe

off, which we seceded in doing, and reached the opposite side and safety. The horses crossed over, tied to the sides of the canoe, swimming or taking the ground according to the depth of the water. between Arachichi and the Via da Fortaleza do Sierra Grande is 30 leagues, principally consisting of sandy lands covered with brushwood. In a few places, the wood is loftier and thicker, but of this there is not much. We passed also some fine Varsayas, or low marshy grounds, which were now sufficiently dry for cultivation, and indeed the only land from which any crop could be expected in this particularly severe dry season. The country is, generally speaking, flat, and in some parts the path led us near to the seashore, but was never upon it. We saw several cottages and three or four hamlets. The facility of obtaining

fish from the sea has rendered living comparatively easy in these parts. We passed through an Indian village and the town of St. Jose, each built in a square, and each containing about 300 inhabitants. I understood that the governors of Sierra are obliged to take possession of their office at St. Jose. We made the journey in four days, arriving at the Via da Fortaleza on the 16th of December. It might have entered at noon on the fourth day, but I preferred waiting until the evening. I performed the journey from Natal to Sierra, a distance of 160 leagues, according to the vague computation of the country in 34 days. The morning after my arrival I sent back to Arachachi the men and horses which I brought with me.

End of Chapter 7 Part 1 Chapter 7 Part 2 of Travels in Brazil, Volume 1 by Henry Koster. This Libre box recording is in the public domain. Chapter 7 Part 2 The town of the fortress of Sierra is built upon heavy sand in the form of a square with four streets leading from it, and it has an additional long street on the north side of the square, which runs in a parallel direction, but is unconnected with it.

The dwellings have only a ground floor, and the streets are not paved, but some of the houses have footpaths of brick and front. It contains three churches, a governor's palace, the town hall and prison, a custom house and the treasury. The number of inhabitants I judged to be from 1,000 to 1,200. The fort, from which the place derives its name, stands upon a sand hill close to the town, and consists of a sand or earth rampart towards the sea and of stakes driven into the ground on the land side. It contains four or five pieces of cannon of several sizes, which were pointed various ways, and I observed that the gun

of heaviest metal was mounted on the land side. Those which pointed to the sea were not of sufficient caliber to have reached a vessel in the usual anchorage ground. The Poutre magazine is situated upon another part at the sand hill, in full view of the harbor. There's not much to invite the preference given to the spot. It has no river nor any harbor, and the beach is bad to land upon. The breakers are violent, and the Hesifi, or reef of rocks, afford very little protection to vessels roddy and anchor upon the coast. The settlement was formerly situated three leagues to the northward, upon a narrow creek, where there exists only the remains of an old fort, the beach is steep, which renders the surf dangerous for a boat to pass through and making for the shore. A vessel unloaded

during my stay there and part of her cargo consisted of the flower of the mangia in small bags. The long boat approached as near to the shore as it could without striking, and the bags were landed on men's heads. The persons employed to bring them a shore, passed through the surf with them,

but if they were caught by a wave, the flower was wetted and injured, and indeed very few reached the shore perfectly dry. The anchorage ground is bad and exposed. The winds are always from the southward and eastward, and if they were very variable, a vessel could scarcely ride upon the coast. The reef of rocks forms a complete ridge at a considerable distance from the shore, and is to be seen at low water. Upon this part of the coast, the reef runs lower than towards

Perinambuco, which has obliged the people of Sierra to take advantage of the rocks, be rather higher here and fording some little protection to ships at anchor. The spot seems to have been preferred owing to this advantage, trifling as it is, though the rocks are much inferior to those which form the bold reef of Pernambuco. The ridge runs parallel with the shore for about one quarter of a mile, with two openings, one above and the other below the town. A small vessel may come to anchor between it and the shore, but a large ship can only bring up either to the northward or to the southward at the town, in one of the openings of the ridge or on the outside of it. The opening to the northward is to be preferred.

A vessel coming from the northward should make the point of Mokoripe, which lies one league to the southward at the town, and upon it stands a small fort. This being done, she will be able to make the anchorage ground. On the appearance of a ship, the fort of the town has a white flag flying upon a high flagstaff. To the northward of the town, between the reef and the shore, there is a rock called Pedra davelia, or the old woman's rock, which is to be seen even at high water, by the breakers upon it.

When a vessel leaves the port, she may either pass between this rock and the shore, giving a berth to a shoal about 100 yards to the northward, or she may run between the rock and the principal ridge or reef. The public buildings are small and low, but are neat and whitewashed and adapted to the purposes for which they are intended. Notwithstanding the disadvantage to the general appearance imparted by the wretched soil upon which the town has been erected, I could not avoid thinking that its look was that of a thriving place. But the difficulty of land carriage, particularly in such a country, the one of a good harbor,

and the dreadful droughts, prevent any sanguine hope of its rise to opulence. The commerce of Sierra is very limited and is not likely to increase. The long credits which it is necessary for the traitor to give preclude the hope of quick returns, to which British merchants are accustomed. I wrote immediately on my arrival to the House of Senor Marcos Antonio Rizio, the chief of the treasury and of the naval department, with several other titles which are not transferable into our language. To this gentleman I had a letter of introduction

from Señor Bahoso. I found several persons assembled at his house to drink tea and play at cards. Signor Marcos is an intelligent and well-informed man, who has seen good society in Lisbon and had held a high situation at Marignan before he was appointed to a Sierra. I was introduced to Signor Lorenzo, a merchant,

who had connections in trade with England. He recognized my name, for he had been acquainted with near relations of mine in Lisbon. I was invited to stay with him and received from him every civility. The morning after my arrival I visited the governor, Luis Barba Larvo de Menainnes. Footnob, this person has since been removed to a province of more importance. And footnob, and was received by him with much affability. He said that he wished he had more opportunities of showing the regard which he entertained for my countrymen, and

and that some of them would come and settle in his captaincy. He built, during the administration, the province, the center of the palace, and employed Indian workmen, paying them half the usual price of labor. He was in the habit of speaking of the property of individuals residing within the province, as if it was his own, saying his ships, his cotton, etc. I happened to be at Sierra on the Queen of Portugal's birthday, The company of regular troops, consisting of 114 men, was reviewed. They looked respectable and were in tolerable order.

In the chief apartment of the palace stood a full-length picture of the Prince Regent of Brazil, which was placed against the wall, and was raised about three feet from the ground. Three or four steps ascended from the floor to the foot of the picture. Upon the lowest of these, the governor stood in full uniform, and each person passed before him and bowed, that thus the state of the sovereign court might be kept up. I dined with a governor this day at whose table were assembled all the military and civil officers and two or three merchants. He placed me at his right hand as a stranger, thus showing the estimation in which Englishmen are held. About thirty persons were present at the table, of which more

than half wore uniforms. Indeed, the whole display was much more brilliant than I had expected. Everything was good and handsome. I had opportunities of seeing the Indian villages of Aronchas and Massangana, and there is a third in this neighborhood, of which I have forgotten the name. Each is distant from Sierra between two and three leagues in different directions. They are built in the form of a square, and each contains about 300 inhabitants. One of my usual companions on these occasions was acquainted with the vicar of Aronshas, and we therefore made him a visit. He resided in a building which had formerly belonged to the Jesuits. It is attached to the church and has balconies from the principal corridor, which look into it. The Indians of these villages, and indeed of all

those which I passed through, are Christians, though it is said that some few of them follow in secret their own heathenish rights, paying adoration to the Maraca and practicing all the customs of their religion. If I may use this word, of which so in exact a description is given in Mr. Salphy's history of Brazil. When the Roman Catholic religion does take root in them, it of necessity degenerates into the most abject superstition, in adherence to superstitious rights, whether of Roman Catholic ordination or prescribed by their own undefined faith, appears to be the only part of their character in which they show any consistency. Each village has its priest, who is oftentimes a vicar, and resident for life upon the spot.

A director is also attached to each village, who is supposed to be a white man. He is great power of the persons within his jurisdiction. If a proprietor of land is in want of workmen, he applies to the director, who agrees for the price at which the daily labor is to be paid, and he commands one of his chief Indians to take so many men and proceed with them to the estate for which they are hired. The laborers receive the money themselves and expend it as they please. But the bargains thus made are usually below the regular price of labor. Each village has two juices, ordinarios, or mayors, who act for one year. One jewice is a white man and the other in

Indian, but it may easily be supposed that the former has, in fact, the management. These juicis have the power of putting suspicious persons into confinement, and of punishing for small crimes. Those are more important, wait for the Cohesum, or circuit of the Oviedoor of the captaincy. Each village contains a town hall and prison. The administration of justice in the Certan is generally spoken of as most wretchedly bad. Every crime obtained impunity by the payment of a sum of money. An innocent person is sometimes punished through the interest of a great man, whom he may have offended, and the murder escapes who has the good fortune to be under the protection of a powerful patron. This proceeds still more from the feudal state of the

country than from a corruption of the magistrates, who might often be inclined to do their duty, and yet be aware that their exertions would be of no avail, and would possibly prove fatal to, themselves. The Indians have likewise their Capitons Morais, and this title is conferred for life. It gives the holders some power over his fellows, but as it is, among them unaccompanied by the possession of property, the Indian Capitain's Morais are much ridiculed by the whites, and indeed the half-naked officer with his gold-headed cane is a personage who would excite laughter from the most rigid nerves. The Indians are in general a quiet and inoffensive people. They have not much fidelity, but although they desert, they will not injure those whom they have served.

Their lives are certainly not passed in a pleasant manner under the eye of a director by whom they are imperiously treated. Consequently, it is not surprising that they should do all in their power to leave their villages and be free from an immediate superior. But even when they, they are not surprising. But even when they have escaped from the irksome dominion of the director, they never settle in one place. The Indian scarcely ever plants for himself, or if he does, rarely waits to crop. He sells his maize, or Mangio, for half its value before it is fit to be gathered, and removes to some other district. His favorite pursuits are fishing and hunting. A lake or rivulet will alone induce him to be stationary for any length of time.

He has a sort of independent feeling which makes him spurn at anything like a wish to deprive him of his own free agency. To the director he submits because it is out of his power to resist. An Indian can never be persuaded to address the master to whom he may have hired himself by the term of seigneur, though it has made use of by the whites and speaking to each other and by all other free people in the country. But the Negroes also use it in speaking to their masters, therefore the Indian will not. He addressed it. He addressed it. his temporary master by the term of amo or patron, protector or patron. The reluctance to use the term of seor may perhaps have commenced with the immediate descendants of those who are in slavery,

and thus the objection may have become traditionary. They may refuse to give by courtesy what was once required from them by law. However, if it began in this manner, it is not now continued for the same reason, as none of those with whom I conversed, and there were very many, appeared to know that their ancestors had been obliged to work as slaves. The instances of murder committed by Indians are rare. They are pilferers rather than thieves. When they can, they eat immoderately. But if it is necessary, they can live upon a very trifling quantity of food, to which their idleness often reduces them. They are much addicted to liquor and will dance in a ring, singing some of the monotonous ditties of their own language, and drink for nights and days without ceasing.

Their dances are not indecent as those of Africa. The mulattoes consider themselves superior to the Indians, and even the Creole blacks look down upon them. He is as paltry as an Indian. Footnote Mofino Comacaboclo End footnote is a common expression among the lower orders in Brazil. They are vilely indifferent regarding the conduct of their wives and daughters.

Lying and other vices attached to savage life belonged to them. Affection seems to have little hold upon them. They appear to be less anxious for the life and welfare of their children than any other caste of men who inhabit that country. The women, however, do not, among these semi-barbarians, perform the principal drudgery. If the husband is at home, he fetches water from the rivulet and fuel from the wood. He builds the hut whilst his wife takes shelter in some neighbor's shed.

But if they travel, she has her young children to carry, the pots, the baskets, and the excavated gourds, whilst the husband takes the wallet of goat-skin and his hammock rolled up upon his back, his fishing net and his arms, and walks in the rear. The children are washed on the day of their birth in the nearest brook or pool of water. Both the men and the women are cleanly in many of their habits, and particularly in those relating to their persons, but in some other matters their customs are extremely disgusting. The same knife is used for all purposes, and with little preparatory cleaning is employed in surfaces of descriptions widely opposite.

They do not reject any kind of food and devour it almost without being cooked. Rats and other small vermin, snakes and alligators are all accepted. The instinct, for I know not what else to call it, which the Indians possess above other men, in finding their way across a wood to a certain spot on the opposite side, without path or apparent mark, is most surprising. They trace footsteps over the dry leaves which lie scattered under the trees. The letter carriers, from one province to another, are mostly Indians, for from habit they endure great fatigue and will walk day after day with little rest,

for months together. I've met them with their wallets made of goatskin, upon their shoulders, walking at a regular pace which is not altered by rough or smooth ground. Though a horse may outstrip one of these men for the first few days, still if the journey continues long, the Indian will in the end arrive before him. If a criminal has alluded the diligence of the police officers, Indians are sent in pursuit of him as a last resort. it is well known that they will not take him alive.

Each man who sees the offender fires, for they do not wish to have any contention, nor is it possible for the magistrate to fix upon the individual of the party who shot the criminal, for if any of them are asked who killed him, the answer invariably is os omens, the men. It is usually said that a party of Indians will fight tolerably well, but that two or three will take to their heels at the first alarm. Some of them, however, are resolute and sufficiently courageous, but the general character is usually supposed to be cowardly and constant, devoid of acute feelings, as forgetful of favors as of injuries,

obstinate and trifles, regardless of matters of importance. The character of the Negro is more decided. It is worse, but it is also occasionally better. From the black race, the worst of men may be forced, but they are capable, likewise, of great and good actions. The Indians seem to be without energy or exertion, devoid of great good or great evil. Much may at the same time be said in their favor.

They have been unjustly dealt with. They have been trampled upon, and afterwards treated as children. They have been always subjected to those who consider themselves their superiors, and this desire to govern them has even been carried to the direction of their domestic arrangements. but no if they are a race of acute beings capable of energy of being deeply interested upon any subject they would do more than they have done the priesthood is open to them but they do not take advantage of it footnote i heard from good authority that there are two instances of indians having been ordained as secular priests that both these individuals died from excessive drinking and a footnote i never saw an indian mechanic in any of the towns there is no instance of a wealthy indian rich mulattoes and negroes are by no means rare i have had many dealings with them as guides and carriers and subsequently as laborers and have no reason to complain

for i was never injured by any of them but neither did i receive any particular good service excepting in the instance of julio for guides and carriers they are well adapted as their usual habits lead them to the ramble life which these employments encourage. As laborers, I found that they had usually a great inclination to overreach, but their schemes were badly laid, and consequently easily discovered. I never could depend upon them for any length of time, and to advance money or clothing to them is a certain loss. If I had any labor which was to be performed by a given time, the overseer would always reckon upon his mulatto and negro free people, but did not mention in the list of persons who were to work, any of the Indians whom I was then employing, and on my speaking of them he answered, an Indian is only to be mentioned for the present day,

meaning that no reliance is to be placed upon them. Footnote, Caboclo Eso para oji. End footnote. Like most of the aboriginal inhabitants of the Western Hemisphere, these people are of a copper color. They are short and stoutly made. but their limbs, though large, have not the appearance of possessing great strength. They have no show of muscle.

The face is disproportionately broad, the nose flat, the mouth wide, the eyes deep and small, the hair black, coarse and length. None of the men have whiskers, and their beards are not thick. The women, when they are young, have by no means an unpleasant appearance, but they soon fall off and become ugly. Their figures are seldom well-shaped. Deformity is rare among the Indians. I do not recollect to have seen any individual of this race who had been born defective, and the well-informed persons with whom I conversed were of opinion that the Indians are more fortunate in this respect than any other race with whom they were acquainted.

All the Indians of Pernambuco speak Portuguese, but few of them pronounce it well. There is always a certain twang which discovers the speaker to be an Indian, although the voice was heard, without the person being seen. Many of them, however, do not understand any other language. The Indians seldom, if ever, speak Portuguese so well as the generality of the Creole Negroes. It must be perfectly understood that although there may be some unfair dealings occasionally of the director toward the Indian, still this race cannot be enslaved. The Indian cannot be made to work for any person against his inclination. He cannot be bought and sold.

An Indian will sometimes make over as child, when very young, to a rich person, to be taught some trade, or to be brought up as a household servant. But as soon as the child is of an age to provide for itself, it cannot be prevented from so doing. It may leave the person under whose care it has been placed, if so inclined. Two Indians presented themselves at the gate of the Carmelite convent of Guyana, and requested and were permitted to see the prior. They put put into his hands a purse containing several gold coins, saying that they had found it near Doiss' heels. They begged that he would order a number of masses to be said in their behalf, which were to be paid for from the contents of the purse. The prior, admiring their honesty,

asked one of them to remain with him as his servant, to which the man agreed. The friar was in the habit of going into the country to a friend's house to shoot. On one occasion after the Indian had served him for some time. He left the convent and took him on one of his expeditions. But when they were about halfway, the friar discovered that he had forgotten his powder horn, he gave the key of his trunk to the Indian, and desired him to fetch the powder whilst he proceeded. In vain he waited at his friend's house for his servant, and on his return to the convent in the evening, he heard that he was not there. He went immediately to a cell, supposing that he had been robbed of all his money, and whatever else the fellow could carry off. But to his joy he discovered

on examination that the man had only taken the powder-horn, two silver coins of about four shillings value each, an old clerical gown, and a pair of worn-out Nanking pantaloons. This story I had from an intimate friend of the prior. One of the days of my stay at Sierra, we passed upon the borders of a lake, which is between two and three leagues distant from the town, for the purpose of shooting. This lake was very nearly dry. The general feature of the country about Sierra is arid. The captaincy produces no sugar, but the lands are adapted for cotton, of which, however, the crop this year was very trifling. So excessive had the drought become that a famine was feared, and great distress would have been experienced if a vessel had not arrived from the southward,

laden with the flour of the manjouk. The usual price of it was 640 haze per Al-Qeheri, but the cargo of this vessel was sold at 6,400 haze per al-Qaeri, a fact which proves the scarcity to have been very great. Formerly considerable quantities of beef were salted and dried here, and were exported to the other captaincies. But from the mortality among the cattle, caused by the frequent dry seasons, this trade has been unavoidably given up entirely, and the whole country is now supplied from the Hio Grande do Sul, the southern boundary of the Portuguese dominions. But the meat which arrives at Pernambuco from the Hio Grande du du Sul still preserves its name of Sierra meat, Carnie do Sierra. The country to the northward and eastward, I understood, to be much superior to that in the

neighborhood of Sierra. The captaincy of Piaoui, which lies in that direction, is accounted fertile and is not subject to droughts. Many were the praises which I heard of the late governor of Sierra, Juan Carlos, who was appointed to this province before he had arrived at the age of 20 years, and who was at the time I visited Sierra, Captain General of Montogroso. His administration of justice was in general summary, but on one occasion he waived his usual severity. He was informed whilst playing at cards at the House of Senorroso.

Marcos, which is near to the palace, that a soldier was robbing his garden. He answered, Poor fellow, Great must be his hunger when he runs the risk of entering his governor's garden. Don't molest him. Some persons were in the practice of taking doors off their hinges, and other tricks of the same sort during the night. The governor had in vain attempted to discover who they were, and he resolved at last to wrap himself up in his cloak, and to apprehend some of them, if possible, with his own hands. A young man, with whom I was acquainted, had met the governor on one of these knights. He demanded his name, and on discovering who it was, admonished him to be at home at an earlier hour on the following evening.

The family of the Fetotosas still exists in the interior of this captaincy, and that of Piaoui in possession of extensive estates, which are covered with immense droves of cattle. In the time of Juan Carlos, the chiefs had risen to such power and were supposed to be so completely out of reach of punishment that the entirely refused obedience to the laws, both civil and criminal, such as they are. They revenged their own wrongs. Persons obnoxious to them were publicly murdered in the villages of the interior. The poor man who refused obedience to their commands was devoted to destruction, and the rich man who was not of their clan, was obliged silently to acquiesce in deeds of which he did not approve.

The fetusas are descendants of Europeans, but many of the branches are of mixed blood, and perhaps few are free from some tinge of the original inhabitants of Brazil. The chief of the family was a colonel of militia, and could at a short notice call together about 100 men, which is equal to ten or twenty times the number in a well-peopled country. deserters were well received by him and murderers who had committed this crime in the revenge of injuries. The thief was not accepted, and much less the man who for the sake of pillage had taken the life of another.

Juan Carlos had received from Lisbon secret instructions to secure the person of this chief of the Fetosas. His first step was to inform the colonel that he intended on a certain day to visit him at his village, for the purpose of reviewing his race. regiment. The village is not many leagues from the coast, but is distant considerably from Sierra. Fetosa answered that he should be ready to receive his excellency on the appointed day. The time came, and Juan Carlos set out, accompanied by ten or twelve persons. The colonel greeted him most courteously, and had assembled all his men to make the greatest possible show. After the review, the colonel dismissed them, fatigued with the day's action.

for many of them had traveled several leagues. He retired with a governor to his house, accompanied by a few of his near relations. At the time all the party were preparing to settle for the night, Juan Carlos, having arranged everything with his own people, rose and presented a pistol to the breast of the chief, his followers doing the same to the colonel's relations and servants, who were unable to make any resistance as they were unprepared and not so numerous as the governor's men. Juan Carlos told Fethosa that if he spoke or made the least noise, he should immediately fire, though he well knew that his own destruction would be certain.

He conducted him to the back door, and ordered him and all the persons present to mount the horses which had been prepared for them. They made for the seashore, and arrived there very early in the morning. Jengadas were in waiting to take them on board a smack, which was lying off and on near the coast. The alarm was given soon after their departure from Fetosa's village, and as the governor reached the smack, he saw the colonel's adherence upon the beach embarking in Jingadas to try to overtake them, but it was too late. The smack left the land, and the next day made for the shore, landed the governor, and then proceeded on her voyage.

Fetosa was supposed to be in the prison of Limouera and Lisbon when the French entered Portugal. and either died about that time or was released by them. Footnote. Another member of this family was also to be apprehended, but the governor could not fix upon any means by which the arrest was to be accomplished. A man of well-known intrepidity and of some power was sent for by the governor to consult with him upon the subject. This person offered to go alone and acquaint the fetoso with the orders that had been issued against him,

and, in fact, to try to take him into custody. He set off, but Fetosa was apprised of his coming, end of his errand, and immediately leaving his estate, proceeded to Biaia, where he embarked for Lisbon, arriving at due time at that place. The person who set off to arrest him, followed him from place to place, arrived at Bia, and embarked for, and landed at Lisbon. He inquired for Fetosa, heard that he had spoken to the Secretary of State, and had had had again embarked on his return homewards, but that the ship was delayed by contrary winds. He likewise went to the secretary, and showed the orders which he had received for the arrest of Fetosa, making known the particular crimes which had made his apprehension requisite.

Fetosa was taken into custody and put into the Limoera prison, where his persecutor or prosecutor went to visit him, saying as he approached, well, did I not say so? So, Eockejisi, alluding to his determination of apprehending him, he returned to Brazil and gave an account of his mission to the governor, from whom he had received his orders. This man was well known in the province of Sierra, and the truth of the story is vouched for by many respectable persons with whom I conversed. This Fetosa has not been heard of. Ed footnote

His follower still looked forward to his return. the loss of their chiefs broke the power and union of the clan, and they have had disputes among themselves. Brazil is likewise undergoing a change of manners, and emerging rapidly from semi-barism. A young man of Sierra had been, a short time before my arrival, to the distance of 30 leagues into the interior, accompanied by two constables, to serve a writ upon a man of some property for a debt. They rode good horses, that they might perform their errand before he could have. have any knowledge that they were going, and might attempt, in consequence, anything against their lives. It is a dangerous service to go into the interior to recover debts. The Portuguese

law does not allow of arrest for debt. But by serving a writ, any property which was sent down to the town to be shipped might be seized. I was received at Sierra most hospitably. The name of Englishman was a recommendation. In the morning I generally remained at home, and in the afternoon rode out with three or four of the young men of the place, who were much superior to any I had expected to find here. In the evening a large party usually assembled at the house of Signor Marcos, his company and that of his wife and daughter, would have been very pleasant anywhere, but was particularly so in these uncivilized regions. Parties were likewise occasionally given at the palace, and at both these places after tea and coffee,

cards and conversation made the evenings pass very quickly. The palace was the only dwelling in town which had boarded at floors. It appeared at first rather strange to be received by one of the principal officers of the province in a room with a brick floor and plain whitewashed walls, as occurred at the House of Signor Marcos. This gentleman had delivered to me a crimson-colored satin bag containing government papers and directed to the Prince Regent of Portugal and Brazil. and he gave me directions to put it into the hands of the postmaster at pernambuco i obtained from being the bearer the power of requiring horses from the several commandants upon the road

to him it was convenient as with me its chance of safety was greater than if it had been forward by a single man on foot which is the usual mode of conveyance the men employed for this purpose are trustworthy but must of course sometimes meet with accidents I had in my journey from Guyana to Sierra. Seen Pernambuco in the adjoining provinces to the northward in almost their worst state, that of one whole season without rain. But extreme wretchedness is produced by two successive years of drought. In such a case on the second year, the peasants die by the roadside. Entire families are swept away. Entire districts are depopulated.

The country was in this dreadful state in 1791. one, two, and three, for these three years passed without any considerable fall of rain. In 1810, food was still to be purchased, though at exorbitant prices, and in the following year the rains came down in abundance and removed the dread of famine. I had, I say, seen the provinces through which I passed upon the brink of extreme want, owing to the failure of the rains. I had myself experienced inconvenience from this cause, and in one instance considerable distress from it. Now in returning the whole country was changed.

The rains had commenced, and I was made to feel that great discomfort is caused by each extreme, but the sensations which the apprehension of a want of water produces are much more painful than the disagreeable effects of an immoderate quantity of it, heavy rains and flooded lands. I was obliged to stay at Sierra longer than I had at first intended, owing to an accident which I met with in bathing. This confined me to my bed for some days. As soon as I was allowed to move, I made preparations for my return. I purchased four horses, one to carry my trunk, and a small barrel of biscuit.

A second for Farina, a third for maize, and the fourth for myself. Signor Lorenzo sent for three trusty Indians from one of the villages for the purpose of accompanying me, and on the 8th of January 1811, I commence my return to Pernambuco. End of Chapter 7, Part 2. Chapter 8, Part 1, of Travels in Brazil, Volume 1, by Henry Costa. This Libre-Wox recording is in the public domain. Return, from Sierra to Natal, Certanesios, cattle, vegetable wax, from Natal to.

to Hesife. I left Seara at daybreak with three Indians and three loaded horses, and one of the young men, with whom I had formed an acquaintance, accompanied me to a short distance from the town. I deviated on my return to Arachachi in some measure from the road by which I had traveled to Seira. The first day passed without any circumstance worthy being mentioned, and I was chiefly occupied and finding out what sort of beings my Indians were, for I had very little conversation with them before we set off. In the afternoon of the second day, having asked one of the Indians if the road was intricate to our next resting place, and being answered that there was no turning by which I could lose the right path, I left the loaded horses and rode on, being tired of following them

at a foot's pace. This I had often done on other occasions. About five o'clock I put up at a cottage in which were two boys, whose appearance was very wretched, but they seemed glad to say that they would let me have a night's lodging. On inquiry they told me that their parents were gone to some distance to make paste from the stem of the Kanauba, for that their usual food, the flower of the mangiac, was no longer to be had at any price in that neighborhood.

I was shown some of this paste, which was of a dark brown color. footnote. Ahuthah says it is white, Vidae appendix. Therefore some other ingredient may have been mixed with that which I saw. And footnote. And of the consistency of dough

that has not been sufficiently needed. It was bitter and nauseous to the taste. On this substance, these miserable people were under the necessity of subsisting, adding to it occasionally dried fish or meat. My party arrived about an hour after me, and late in the evening, the younger boy began to beg. Inconsiderately I gave him money, but shortly he returned, saying his elder brother desired him to tell me that it would be of no use to them, as nothing could be purchased with it.

Then I understood their meaning and begging at this moment. My men were going to supper. The children were, of course, desired to sit down with him. Here, Feliciano, one of the Indians, so two hides loosely, round the two bags of Farina, saying that if we proceed it without disguising what they contained, we should at some hamlet upon the road be obliged to satisfy the people, who would probably beg part of it from us. He had not known, before he inquired from these children, that this part of the country was in such a dreadful state of want. The inhabitants had eaten up their own scanty crop,

and some of them had even been tempted by the exorbitant price to carry their stock to Sierra for sale. They had not heard of the supply which had arrived at that place from the southward. We reached Arrachachi on the fifth day. I remained two days at Arrachee that the horses might be brought from the island, upon which they had been put out to grass. I experience fully now what the guide had before told me respecting the horses. They had all lost flesh and were apparently less fit for work than when I first arrived at Arachachi, though doubtless the relief from daily work

for so long a period must have rendered them better able to renew it again now. The Spanish discoverers in South America, who understood the business into which they had entered, strongly inculcated to their people the necessity of the steady and regular continuance of their journeys unless a pause could have been made for some length of time. Footnote. Geveca de Vaca is particularly mentioned. History of Brazil, Volume 1, Page 109. End footnote.

I bought a large dog at Arachachi, which had been trained to keep watch over the baggage of travelers. A man presented himself here, requesting to be allowed to go with me to Pernambuco. He described himself as a Portuguese sailor, and European by birth, and as having belonged to the Portuguese sloop of war, called the Andorina, which was wrecked upon the coast between Parah and Maragnan. He traveled from the spot at which he had landed, to this place, without any assistance from government, though provision had been made by any of the men in power for the assistance of the persons

who escaped. I consented to his joining me. He behaved well, and I never afterwards had any cause to doubt the truth of his story. I had now a great increase in my number of men and horses, but was advised to take the men all forward with me, as the reins might commence. and the rivers fill, in which case the more people I had to assist in crossing them, with less danger would it be accomplished. The additional number of horses enabled me to divide the weight into smaller loads, and to have two or three beasts unencumbered for the purpose of relieving the others, if necessary. The party now consisted of nine persons and eleven horses. Signor Bahasa's kindness was still continued toward me, and I hope I shall never cease to feel

grateful for it. I was advised to get on to the seashore as soon as possible on leaving Arachachi, this being the better road. Consequently, I slept the first night, distant three leagues from that place, at Algoa do Matto, a small lake which was now nearly dried up. The following morning we traveled over the sands, passed a small village near to the shore called Hitero, and slept at Kajuis, a place we were acquainted with. And from hence to St. Lucia, we followed the same route as in going to Sierra. From Kajois, we passed through Areas, famous for the ghost story, and rested at Thibu, proceeding in the afternoon with the intention of sleeping at the unfinished house on the road to Ilya, but the night was closing in upon us when we were still two leagues

short of it, and for this reason it was thought advisable to stop and pass the night among the brushwood. We had several showers of rain, occasionally, for some days past, and although they were slight, the grass had begun to spring up in some places. The rapidity of vegetation in Brazil is truly astonishing. Rain in the evening, upon good soil will by sunrise have given a greenish tinge to the earth, which is increased, if the rain continues. On the same, second day, two sprouts of grass of an inch in length, and these on the third day are sufficiently long to be picked up by the half-starved cattle. The brushwood among which we had determined to pass the night was low and not close, so that only two shrubs were found to be near enough to each other

and of sufficient strength to support a hammock. Between these mine was hung, whilst the people took up their quarters upon the packages, as to them seemed best. Between one and two o'clock, in the morning, the rain commenced. At first with some moderation. The guide fastened two courts from shrub to shrub above my hammock, and laid some hides upon them as a covering for me. But soon the rain increased, and the whole party crowded under the hides. I got up and all of us stood together and some degrees sheltered until the hides fell down, owing to their being quite soaked. Our fires were, of course, completely extinguished. I reminded my people of the necessity of keeping the locks of our firearms dry. Indeed, those persons at the party who knew these sirtown must be even more aware

than myself of the number of jaguars which are to be met with upon these travesillas. I had not spoken many minutes before Feliciano said he heard the growl of one of these animals. He was right, for a lot of mares galloped across the path, not far from us, and shortly after the growl was distinctly heard. Many of these beasts were near us during the remainder of the night, as we heard the growl in several directions. We stood with our backs to each other, and by no means free from the chance of being attacked, though the Indians from time to time set up a sort of song or howl, such as practiced by the Certanasia's when guiding large droves of half-tamed cattle, with the intent of frightening the jaguas. Towards daybreak the deluge

somewhat abated, but still the rain was hard, and it did not cease. In the morning there was much difficulty in finding the horses, as the jaguars had frightened and scattered them. Indeed, we much doubt it whether they would all be alive, but I suppose the wild cattle were preferred as being in better condition. The loads were arranged, and we proceeded to Ilya, distant six leagues, arriving there about two o'clock in the afternoon, after having sustained twelve hours of continued rain. The owner of the estate of Ilya sent a message to say that he wished me to remove from the outhouse, in which I had settled myself for the remainder of the day and ensuing night to his residence. I accepted his offer. It was a low mud cottage, covered with tiles which had been made from

the clay found upon the skirts of the salt marsh near to which his house stood. He gave us plenty of milk and dried meat. There was a scarcity of Farina, but a plentiful year was expected. Immediately on my entrance into his house, he offered me his hammock in which he had been sitting. but mine was soon slung, and we sat, talked, and smoked for a considerable time. The mosquitoes were very troublesome. Indeed, from this time we were scarcely ever without them at night, and they annoyed us more or less, according to the state of the wind and the quantity of rain which had fallen during the day.

The inconvenience occasioned by these insects is inconceivable until it has been experienced. The next day we advanced to the village of St. Lucia and rest of, at noon there, in an unfinished cottage. Soon after, we had unloaded a horses, and I had lain myself down in my hammock, intending to sleep. The guide told me that a number of people appeared to be assembling near to us, and that I ought to recollect the quarrel which we had had here and going. I got up and asked for my trunk, opened it with as little apparent design as possible, turned over several things in it, and taking out the red bag, placed it a part of upon a large log of timber near to me, and then I continued to search in the trunk, as if for

something I could not immediately find. When I looked up again in a few minutes all the persons who had assembled were gone. Either the important consequences attending this bag were known, that of having the power of making a requisition of horses, or some other idea of my situation in life, was given by the sight of this magical bag. The river near St. Louis, Lucia had not yet filled. We proceeded in the afternoon and reached the banks of the river, Panema, a narrow but now a rapid stream. One of the men went in to try if it was fordable, but before he was halfway crossed, he found that it would be impossible to pass, as the rapidity in depth would effectually prevent any attempt to carry the packages over upon the

heads of the Indians. I desired the people to remain where they were, while still I turned back with a Goyana guide to look for some habitation. Because, owing to the commencement of the rains, sleeping in the open air would have been highly imprudent. We made for a house which was situated among the Kanauba trees at some distance from the road, and as the owner of it said that he could accommodate us, and that there was abundance of grass for our horses, the guide returned to bring the party to this place, which was called St. Anna. In the course of the course of the the night, I had an attack of Ague, which would have delayed me at St. Anna, even if the height of the waters had not prevented me from proceeding. However, I became more unwell, and perhaps I

imagined myself to be worse than I really was, but I began to wish to arrive at Asu, as by so doing I should be advancing upon my journey, and at the same time I should obtain the advantage of being near to some priest, to whom I could impart any message which I might have to send to my friends. Although I was not in immediate danger, I was aware of the sudden changes to which agorish disorders are liable. As soon as the waters began to subside, I determined to remove, but as I could not mount on horseback would be necessary that I should be carried in a hammock. However, the difficulty consisted in procuring a sufficient number of men. By way to the way to be able to be carried on horseback, would be necessary to be waiting another day, six persons were obtained from the cottages in the vicinity, some of which

were distant more than a league. On the fifth day from that of my arrival here, we set off, crossed the river which was barely fordable, and entered upon the flooded lands. The waters covered the whole face of the country, though they were now subsiding a little. The depth was in part up to the waist, but was in general less than knee-deep. The men knew the way from practice, but but even the guide whom I hired at Aosu could not have found it without the assistance of those who carried me. At noon, the hammock with me in it was hung between two trees, resting the two ends of the pole by which the men carried it upon two forked branches, and hides were placed over this pole to shave me from the sun, as the trees had not recovered from the drought, and were

yet with leaves. The men slung their hammocks also. The packages were supported upon the branches of trees, and the horses stood in the water and eat their maize out of bags which were tied round their heads. The water was shallow here, as this spot was rather higher than the lands around, and in one place the ground was beginning to make its appearance. At dusk we reached Chaffates, a fazenda situated upon dry land, and here we put up under an unfinished house. The horse upon which my trunk in case of bottles had traveled had fallen down, and to add to my discomfort, my clothes were completely wetted, and even the red bag did not entirely escape.

I passed a wretched night from the ague and from over-fatigue. The following morning I had some conversation with the owner of the place and purchased two of his horses. At noon I sent off the Camboyo under the gamboyo, under the greek. care of Feliciano, who was desired to reach Piatto the following night. I remain with the Goyana guide and Julio, who had been promoted to John's place of groom. With considerable difficulty, the packages were carried across the river, which runs just below the estate. The stream was rapid, and the stony bed in which it runs increased the difficulty. When I passed

on the morning following, the depth and rapidity of the current were considerably diminished. for no rain had fallen during the night. I'd mounted the two persons who accompanied me upon the two horses which had been purchased the day before, and I rode a lead horse which was quite fresh, resolving to arrive at Piatto, distant ten leagues in one day. This I accomplished, resting only a short time at noon.

I was very unfit for so much exertion, but the necessity of the case did not allow me any alternative, but I was determined to ride until absolute exhaustion forced me to give way. We overtook my people and all of us rested at the same place. Feliciano shot an antelope, upon which we dined. It was seldom, if ever, absolutely necessary to depend upon our guns for subsistence, though the provision thus obtained was by no means unacceptable, as it varied our diet. We could generally either purchase a considerable supply of dried meat, or, as occasionally occurred, was afforded us gratuitously. Sheep were sometimes to be bought, and at others fouls might be obtained

on inquiring at the cottages. But although numbers of the latter were to be seen about the huts, and high price offered, still the owners frequently refused to part with them. The women, naturally enough, had the management of this department of household arrangement. and after much bargaining, the housewife would often at last declare that all of them were such favorites that she and her children could not resolve to have any of them killed. This behavior became so frequent that at last when either the guide or myself rode up to a cottage to purchase a foul, it was quite decisive with us if the husband called to his wife, saying that she would settle the matter. Unless we had time to spare for talking, we generally went our way.

My friend the commandant was still residing at Piatto. I felt as if I was returning home. My spirits were low, and any trifle relieved them. This night I was still very unwell. My thirst was great, and nothing satisfied and elated so much as watermelons, of which there was here a superabundance. I ate several of them. The guide said I should kill myself, but I thought otherwise, for I liked the fruit.

In the morning I woke up quite a changed person, and the ague returned no more. the guide often said afterwards that he never had known until the present occasion that watermelons might be taken as a cure for the ague he was quite certain that they had performed a cure and that they would have the same effect upon all persons in the same disease such are the changes to which this strange complaint is subject often thus suddenly leaving the patient but as frequently or more so ending in fever and delirium however it seldom proves fatal On the morrow we left Piatto, with the addition to our party of a small tame tame Tato Bola or Armadillo, both having been given to me by the Kamada. The former kept pace with the horses for many days, and it never gave us any trouble, until the long continuance of the journey wearied it out, and then I was obliged to make room for it one of the panneers.

In this manner it traveled for a day or two at a time. The armadillo was convinced, in a small bag, and only on one occasion gave us any trouble. When we released it at our resting places, it usually remained among the packages, either feeding or rolled up. It was with some difficulty that mimosa was prevented from annoying it, but latterly she and the armadillo were very good friends. At Asu I changed one of my horses for another that was in better condition, and gave about the value of a guinea to boot. Our friends, the saddler and the armbalers, and the owner of the house which we had inhabited and going, received us very cordially, and offered to

assist us in crossing the river, which was full. But they advised me to wait for a decrease of the depth and rapidity of the stream. However, I was anxious to advance. My people made no objection. Here I discharged the young man whom I had taken from hence as a guide to Arachachi. We crossed the smaller branch of the river, with water reaching to the flaps of the saddles. When we arrived at the second and principal branch, it was discovered that at Gingata would be necessary to convey the baggage across. Several of the inhabitants of the place had followed us, judging that this would be the case, and they were willing to be of service to us an expectation of being compensated for their trouble. A few logs of timber were soon

procured. Some of them had been brought down by the stream, and were now upon the banks, and others were conveyed from the town. The cords with which the packages were fastened to the pack-settles were made use of to tie the logs together for the purpose of forming the raft. The father of the young man who had been with me to Arachachi accompanied us to the riverside to assist and had brought Mimosa with him. I requested him to secure her, otherwise I thought she would follow me. He did so and sent her back to the town by a boy. When the raft was prepared, the saddles and all the packages were placed upon it, and I sat down among them. Four men laid hold of each side of the raft and shoved off from the shore, and when they lost their

footing, each man kept hold of the raft with one hand, swimming with the other. But notwithstanding their exertions, the stream carried us down about fifty yards before we reached the other side, which, however, was gained in safety. The Indians were already there with her horse, The river of Asu is from two to three hundred yards in breath. It was now deep and dangerous, and from the violence of the current, a guide is requisite that advantage may be taken of the shallowest parts. The Certanesos have a curious contrivance for crossing rivers, which is formed of three pieces of wood, and upon this they paddle themselves to the opposite side. I heard it often spoken of by the name of Cavalce, but

as I did not see any of them, I cannot pretend to give an exact description. Footnote. There is a print in Bartleus, which represents the Portuguese crossing the river St. Francisco upon rafts or logs of timber. These must, I think, have been similar to those which are at present used in the Certan. End footnote. The men soon left us to arrange the loads, which we were doing with all possible expedition, when on turning around, I saw Mimosa running up to me, half crouched and half afraid. I'd often wish to purchase this animal, but nothing would induce her master to part with her. He said that he had had her from a whelp, and added that if he put the pot upon the fire and then went out with her, he was sure

to return by the time it boiled, bringing something with which to fill it. He did not mean that this was literally the case, but thus quaintly he wished to impress the idea of her great expertness and hunting. She followed us, as she found that she was well received. We advanced and halted at St. Ursula, a fazenda distant from Asu one league and a half, and here we slept. The roads lay through woods, which were thick and close. From hence to the Sierra Merrim, the country was new to me, as I deviated from the road by which I had arrived at Asu on my way northwards. I now took the shortest road to Natal, but had frequently to cross this winding river. Whilst I was at dinner, Mimosa was near to me, watching for her share, when suddenly she crept

under the bench upon which I sat. I soon saw what had caused this movement, for the old man, the father of her owner, was coming towards us. He said that he came for his son's dog. I persuaded him to sell her, and when he was going his way, Mimosa ran out from under the bench and fawned upon him. I told him to go on and invite her to follow him, but upon this she immediately returned growling to her old station under the bench. She had been better treated and better fed with me than when she was with her master. I always fed her myself and had several times prevented him from beating her. The next day we passed through the fasendas of Passageum and Baja. The road was over loose stony ground, and we crossed one dry marsh. In the next day we passed through the fash and the

After the afternoon we traveled from St. Bento to Angicos, which obliged us to pass over some higher ground, which was very stony and painful to our horses. We crossed a small, shallow stream several times. Our next day's march carried us across more stony ground. The persons to whom we spoke said that there had been no rain, indeed this was evident. There was no grass, and the country was yet parched and dreary. The horses had no water at noon, for the well was small, and the spring which supplied it was insufficient for so great a number of beasts. I was thirsty in the afternoon, and therefore left the convoyo to follow at its usual pace, and rode on accompanied by Julio. The two dogs likewise would come with us. We entered upon a plan, and now for the second time I saw an Emma, a species of ostrich. Notwithstanding my attempt, to prevent them, the dog set off after it, and much against my inclination, I was obliged to wait

until their return. The bird ran from them with great velocity, flapping its wings, but never leaving the ground. The Amos outstripped the fleetest horses. The color of the one which we saw was a dark gray. Its height, including the neck, which was very long, was about that of a man on horseback, and it had that appearance at first sight when at some distance. The Certanesia, that when pursued the emma spurs itself to run the faster, that the spurs or pointed bones are placed in the inside of the wings, and that as these are flapped, the bones strike the sides and wound them. I've heard many people say that when an ama is caught after a hard chase, the sides are found to be bloody. It is possible that this effect may be produced by some cause similar to that

which a pig cuts its own throat and swimming. The eggs of the amma are large, and all the food which they afford is coarse. It is not unpalatable. The feathers are much esteemed. When the dogs returned, we continued our journey. The road led us between high rocks, and after proceeding along it for some time, the dog suddenly struck from the path and went up the side of a flat rock, which sloped down towards the road, but was sufficiently low to allow of a horse ascending it. Our horses stopped and snuffed up the air. Julio cried out at the same time, water, water, and spurred his horse to follow the dogs,

and I did the same. Julio was quite correct in what he had supposed from the direction which the dogs immediately took, and from the stopping of a horse. There was a long and narrow but deep cleft in the rock, which was nearly full of water, clear and cold. The sides of the cleft slanted inwards in the water, was below the surface, so that the dogs were running round and howling without being able to reach it. The horses, too, as soon as we dismounted, and they saw the water, began to paw and attempt to

press forwards to drink. We brought no vessel with which to take up any water, and were under the necessity of using our hats to satisfy the horses and dogs. The rest of the party came up after some time. Feliciano was acquainted with the spot, but if the dogs and horse were horses had not pointed out to Julio, he and I should have missed it. We were delayed considerably in giving water enough to all the horses, as we had no large vessel in which to take it up. I heard from Feliciano, and subsequently from other persons, that these clefts in the rock are common, and that they are known to few, and those principally of his rank in occupation and life, and that this knowledge enabled them to find plenty of water when others were in great distress.

He said we never refused to give information, but we say as little about it as possible. I travelled until ten o'clock at night, wishing to reach some fazenda not to remain in the open air, as there were several heavy clouds flying about, from the look of which we well knew that if the wind abated, rain would come on. We reached a fuzzenda and applied for a night's lodging, which was granted, but upon a survey of the interior of the house, I prefer the open air with all its disadvantages. The place was full of persons who had assembled from the neighboring estates in expectation of rain, as they had come to assist in collecting cattle. The fellows were eating dried meat and had by some means obtained a quantity of rum.

I took up my station at a distance from the house, and we scarcely laid down during the night, from fear of the rain and in some measure that we might be prepared to prevent any of our horses being stolen as a piece of sport by the people in the house. The next day we crossed over a plain which was partly without trees, and in part covered with brushwood. In going over this last portion, I pushed on with Julio, leaving the Camboyo to follow us. We had nearly lost our way at the division of several paths. Even Julio's knowledge was insufficient, and had we not met some travelers and inquired of them, I know not how to far from the baggage we might have been at night.

On the following morning we advanced again, took water in skins near to some cottages, and at noon stationed ourselves in the bed of a rivulet, where there was good grass, but no water. As the bed was lower than the neighboring land, the very first shower had made the grass spring up, though there had not been rain sufficient to excite vegetation upon its banks.

Here the armadillo strayed into some brushwood. Feliciano followed it by the marks of its footsteps over the grass and dried leaves and brought it back. I'm quite confident that he did not see which way it went, and to a person unused to tracing footsteps, there appeared to be none. If it had passed over sand, there would not have been anything extraordinary in discovering the way which the animal had taken, but upon the grass and dry leaves so small an animal could make, but a most trifling impression. I mentioned at this place, accidentally, that the skins had spoiled the water, for it tasted of the grease with which they had been rubbed. Feliciano heard me and took up a small skin that lay empty, which was old and, therefore not

greasy, and said, I'll try to find some for you that is better, and away he went. In about an hour he returned with a skin full of excellent water. He had recollected a cleft in a rock at some distance, and had gone to see if any yet remained in it. We slept at a fuzzain. We slept at a fuzzend, and the next day proceeded in the expectation of reaching the Sierra Merrim, which we did. This tract of country had not recovered from the drought, but the trees were beginning to be clothed, and the grass under them was in most parts of sufficient length to afford subsistence to our horses. Water was still scarce and bad, but the rain had made it less brackish and more plentiful. We passed over the travesia with all possible haste, as the floods were expected,

it shortly, and sometimes the water comes down, as I have before stated, with great rapidity. There is some danger in being caught by the water upon any of the peninsulas or islands which are formed by its bends, for to be under necessity of crossing over a stream, which runs with much violence, perhaps ten times or more successively would be too much for almost any horse to bear, and particularly for those which were already fatigued by a long journey. We left the Sierra Merrim in four days. Past Pai Paolo, and early on the fifth day, arrived again at the dry lake. The people of this place were upon the point of decamping, as the rains were expected, or rather had already commenced. We now met several parties of travelers who had taken advantage of the first

rains to pass over this tract of country, and who were hastening before the floods came down the river. January is not properly speaking the rainy season. The rains at the commencement of the year are called the Primeras Aguas, or the first waters, and continue for about a fortnight or three weeks, after which the weather generally becomes again settled until May or June, and from this time until the end of August, the rains are usually pretty constant. From August or September until the opening of the year, there is not usually any rain. The dry weather can be dependent upon with more certainty from September until January, then from February until May. Likewise, the wet weather can be looked for with more certainty from June until August, then in January. There are very few days during the whole

course of the year of incessant rain. What I have said regarding the seasons must, however, be taken with some latitude, as in all climates they are subject to very late. The horse I left at the dry lake was faithfully delivered to me, and I continued my journey on the following day to Natal. The governor received me with the same cordiality as before. I'd now left the Sertan, and though it treated me rather roughly, still I've always wished I could have seen more of it. There is a certain pleasure which I cannot describe in crossing new countries, and that portion of territory over which I had traveled was new to an Englishman. From the sensations which I experienced, I can well imagine what those are which travelers in unexplored countries must feel at every step, at every novelty which comes under their view.

There is yet much ground upon the continent of South America to be traversed, and I most heartily wish that it had been my fate to be the civilized individual first doomed across from Pernambuco to Lima. I have perhaps hardly said sufficient to give a correct idea of the inhabitants of the Fasendas or cattle estates. Unlike the pions of the country and the vicinity of the River Plata, the Certanesia has about him his wife and family, and lives in comparative comfort. The cottages are small and are built of mud, but afford quite sufficient shelter in so fine a climate. They are covered with tiles where these are to be had, or

or as in more general, with the leaves of the carnababa. Hammocks usually supply the place of beds, and are by far more comfortable, and these are more likewise used as chairs. Most of the better sort of cottages contain a table, but the usual practices for the family to squat down upon a mat in a circle with the bowls, dishes, and gourds in the center,

thus to eat their meals upon the floor. Knives and forks are not much known, and are not at all made use of by the lower orders. It is the custom in every house, from the highest to the lowest, as in former times, and indeed the same practice prevails in all the parts of the country which I visited, for a silver basin, or one of earthenware, or a quia, and a fringe cambric towel, or one that is made of the coarse cotton cloth of the country, to be handed round, that all those who are going to sit down to eat may wash their hands,

and the same ceremony, or rather necessary piece of cleanliness, takes place again after the meal is finished. Of the Gord's great use is made in domestic arrangements. They are cut in two, and the pulp is scooped out. Then the rind is dried, and these rude vessels serve almost every purpose of earthenware. Water is carried in them, etc., and they are likewise used as measures. They vary from six inches in circumference to about three feet, and are usually rather of an oval shape. The Gordwin hole is called Gabassa, and the half of the rind is called quia. It is a creeping plant and grows spontaneously in many parts, but in others the people planted among the mangy. The conversation of the certain ayesha usually turns upon the state of their

cattle, or of women, and occasionally accounts of adventures which took place at Hesiphi or some other town. The merits or demerits of the priest with whom they may have. happen to be acquainted, are likewise discussed, and their irregular practices are made a subject of ridicule. The dress of the men already has been described, but when they are at home, a shirt and drawers alone remain. The women have a more slovenly look, as their only dress is a shift in a petticoat, no stockings, and oftentimes no shoes, but when they leave home, which is very seldom, and addition is made of a large piece of coarse white cloth, either of their own or of European manufacture, and this is thrown over the head and shoulders. A pair of shoes is likewise

then put on. They are good horsewomen, and the high Portuguese saddle serves the purpose of a side saddle very completely. I never saw any Brazilian woman riding, as is the case occasionally in Portugal, in the manner that men do. Their employment consists in household arrangements. entirely, for the men even milk cows and goats. The women spin and work with a needle. No females of free birth are ever seen employed in any kind of labor in the open air, excepting in that of occasionally fetching wood or water, if the men are not at home. The children generally run about naked until a certain age, but this is often seen even in a Siphi. To the age of six or seven, boys are allowed to run about without any clothing.

formerly i mean before the commencement of a direct trade with england both sexes dressed in a coarse cotton cloth which is made in the country the petticoats of this cloth were sometimes tinged with a red dye which was obtained from the bark of the koipuna tree a native of their woods and even now this dye is used for tinging fishing nets as it is said that those which have undergone this process last the longer in those times address of the common print to cotton of English or a Portuguese manufacturer, cost from 8 to 12 mil heirs, from two to three guineas, owing to the monopoly of the trade, by which the merchants of Hesifi put what price they please upon their commodities. Other things were in proportion. Owing to the enormous prices, European articles of dress could, of course, only be possessed by the rich people. However, since the opening of the ports to foreign trade, trade, English goods are finding their way all over the country, and the hawkers are now a

numerous body of men. The women seldom appear, and when they are seen, do not take any part in the conversation, unless it be some one good wife who rules the roost. If they are present at all when the men are talking, they stand or squat down upon the ground, in the doorway leading to the interior of the house, and merely listen. The morals of the men are by no means strict, and when this is the case, it must give an unfavorable bias, in some degree, to those of the women. But the certonezo is very jealous, and more murders are committed, and more quarrels entered into on this score by tenfold than on any other. These people are revengeful. An offense is seldom pardoned, and in default of law, of which there is scarcely any, each man takes it into his own

hands. This is, without any sort of doubt, a dreadful state of society, and I do not by any means pretend to speak in its justification. But if the causes of most of the murders committed and beatings given are inquired into, I have usually found that the sufferer had only obtained what he deserved. Robbery in the Certan is scarcely known. The land is in favorable years too plentiful to afford temptation, and in seasons of distress for food, every man is for the most part equally in want. Subsistence is to be obtained in an easier manner than by stealing in so abundant a country, and where both parties are equally brave and resolute.

But besides these reasons, I think these certain ratios are a good race of people. They are tractable and might easily be instructed, accepting in religious matters, and these they fast riveted, and such was their idea of an Englishman and a heretic, that it was on some occasions difficult to make them believe that I, who had the figure of a human being, was not of some nondescript race. They are extremely ignorant. Few of them possess even the commonest rudiments of knowledge. Their religion is confined to the observance of certain forms and ceremonies, and to the frequent repetition of a few prayers, faith and charms, relics, and other things of the same order. The certainesios are courageous, generous, sincere, and hospitable.

If a favor is begged, they know not how to deny it. But if you trade with them either for cattle or aught else, the character changes, and then they wish to outwit you, conceiving success to be a piece of cleverness of which they may boast. The following anecdote is characteristic. A certonezo came down from the interior with a large drove of cattle, which had been entrusted to him to sell. He obtained a purchaser who was to pay him at the close of two or three months. The certainesial waited to receive the money, as his home was far too distant to return for this purpose. Before the expiration of the term, the purchaser of the cattle found some means of having him imprisoned. He went to him when he was in confinement, and pretending to be extremely sorry for his

misfortune, hinted that if he would allow him to appropriate part of the debt to the purpose, he would try to obtain his release. To this the Certanatio agreed, and consequently soon obtained his freedom. He heard soon afterwards how the whole of the business had been managed by the purchaser of the cattle, to avoid paying for what he had bought, and he could not obtain any part of the money. Having advised his employers in the Certan of these circumstances, he received her answer that the loss of the money was of little consequence, but that he must either assassinate the man who had injured him or not return home, because he should himself suffer if the insult remain unrevenged. The Certanejo immediately made preparations for returning.

He had always feigned great thankfulness towards his debtor for obtaining his release, and a total ignorance of his unjustifiable conduct. On the day of his departure he wrote to the house of the man whom he had determined to destroy and dismounted, whilst one of his two companions held his horse. He saw the owner of the house, and as he gave him the usual parting embrace, ran his long knife into his side. He then quickly leapt onto his horse, and the three persons rode off. None dared to molest them, for they were well armed, and although this occurred in a large town, they soon joined a considerable number of their countrymen who waited for them in the outskirts, and proceeded to their own country without any attempt being made to apprehend them.

These circumstances took place several years ago, but the relatives of the man who was killed still bear in mind his death and a determination of revenging it upon him who committed it if he was again to place himself within their reach. Many persons can vouch for the truth of this story, End of Chapter 8, Part 1. Section 11 of Travels in Brazil, Volume 1 by Henry Koster. The Sleeper-Ox recording is in the public domain. Chapter 8, part 2. The color of the certain eschos varies from white, of which there are necessarily few, to a dark brown, the shades of which are almost as various as there are persons. Two of exactly the same tint are scarcely to be met with,

children of the same parents rarely if ever are of the same shade some difference is almost always perceivable and this is in many instances so glaring as to lead at first to doubts of the authenticity but it is too general to be ought but what is right the offspring of white and black persons leans in most instances more to one color than to the other when perhaps a second child will take a contrary tinge footnote a mulatto woman once said to me the children of mulattoes are like whelps they are of all colors filio de mulatto e as a cheshioe whom saibranco other partho and other negro and footnote these remarks do not only hold good in the certown but are applicable to all the country which i had opportunity of seeing the certane if cernaceo if color is set a sartanese if color is set a certain side is certainly handsome, and the women, whilst young, have well-shaped forms and many of them good features. Indeed, I've seen some of the white persons who would be admired in any country. Their constant exposure to the sun and its great power at a distance from the sea darkens the complexion more than if the same person had resided upon the coast,

but this gives them a decided dark color, which has the appearance of durability and is much preferable to a sallow, sickly look, though of a lighter tint. The persons who reside upon and have the care of the cattle estates are called vacarles, which simply means cowherds. They have a share of the calves and foals that are reared upon the land. But of the lambs, pigs, goats, etc., no account is given to the owner. And from the quantity of cattle, numbers are reckoned very loosely. It is therefore a comfortable and lucrative place,

but the duties attenient are heavy, require considerable courage and great bodily strength and activity. Some of the owners live upon their estates, but the major part of the estates, through which I passed, were possessed by men of large property who resided in the towns upon the coast, or who were at the same time sugar planters. The interior of Pernambuco,

Rio Grande, Parahiba, and Sierra, contains, properly speaking, no wild cattle. Footnote. Dr. Manuel Ahula da Cammara says that before the dreadful drought of 1793, it was considered to be one of the duties of the herdsmen to destroy the wild cattle, that that which was already half-tame might not be induced to mix with it, and he adds that this is still the case in the Certons of Pioi. He published his pamphlets in 1810.

End footnote. Twice every year the herdsmen from several estates assemble for the purpose of collecting the cattle. The cows are driven from all quarters into the area in front of the house, and here, surrounded by several horsemen, are put into spacious pens. This being done, the men dismount, and now their object is, if any of the cows are inclined to be unruly, which is often the case, to noose them by the whole. horn so as to secure them, or another mode is adopted, which is by noosing one of the hind legs, and carrying the cord quite round the animal, so as to throw it down. The calves are then caught,

and this is done without much difficulty. They are marked on the right haunch with a red-hot iron, which is made of the shape that has been fixed upon the owner as his peculiar mark. When the oxen are to be collected for a market, the service is more dangerous, and frequently the rider is under the necessity of throwing the animal to the ground with his long pole, as I have in another place mentioned. On the man's approach, the ox runs off into the nearest wood, and the man follows as closely as he possibly can, that he may take advantage of the opening of the branches, which is made by the beast, as they shortly close again, resuming their former situation. At times the ox passes under a low and thick branch of a large tree, then the man

likewise passes under the branch, and that he may do this he leans to the right side so completely as to enable him to lay hold of the girth of his saddle with his left hand, and at the same time his left heel catches the flap of the saddle. Thus, with a pull in his right hand, almost trailing upon the ground, he follows without slackening his pace, and being clear of this obstacle, again resumes his seat. If he can overtake the ox, he runs his goad to its side, and and if this is dexterously done, he throws it. Then he dismounts and ties the animal's legs together, or places one foreleg over one of the horns,

which secures it most effectually. Many blows are received by these men, but it is seldom that deaths are occasioned. In crossing these Sierra Merrim, I mention an instance of a cow having strayed to an immense distance from its native pasture. This propensity to ramble is common among horned cattle, even without its proceeding from the scarcity of grass or water.

Often at the time of collecting the cattle, those persons who have been to a considerable distance to assist others drive back a number of beasts with their own mark, the estate to which they belong being distant twenty leagues or more. When a traveler is in distress for water, he cannot do better than to follow the first cattle path, as these usually lead to the nearest pool of water in a direct line. The paths are easily distinguished,

being very narrow, and the wood uniting above, leaving, open below only a shady walk of the height of the animals which mate it. Each lot of mares with its master horse is driven into the pens. This consists of from fifteen to twenty in number. The foals are marked in the same manner as the calves. It is worthy of remark, and the circumstance was often repeated to me that the horse of the lot drives from it not only the colts but the fillies also as soon as they are full grown. The fact was only qualified in two or three instances, when told to me by the person who related it, adding that if the horse did not do so, he was taken from the lot and broken for the pack saddle, being considered of a bad breed. When a horse is to be tame for any purpose whatsoever,

he is noosed after being put into a pen and is tied to a stake. On the first of the first of following day, or perhaps the same afternoon, if he appears at all tractable, a small low saddle is placed upon him, and a man then mounts with a double halter. The animal runs off with him, which the man, far from attempting to prevent, rather urges him to do, though in general the whip and spur are not made use of unless he is obstinate and refuses to go forwards. Horses of good breeds are said to be those most easily tamed. The horse runs until he becomes weary, and is then brought back quietly by his rider, and perhaps they do not reach the rider's home until the following day. The man must not dispound until he has returned to the spot from once he

started, as he would probably experience great difficulty when he wished again to proceed from the restiveness of the horse. The same operation is continued as long as the animal is not supposed to be effectually broken in and safe to mount. It happens on some occasions, that by plunging, the horse gets rid of both man and saddle, and is not again seen for a length of time. However, unless the girths give way, he is little chance of throwing his rider, for the Certanesos are most excellent horsemen. The horses are small, and some of them are finely shaped, though little attention is paid to the improvement of the breed. Great stress is laid upon the color in the choice of these animals, some colors being

account it more demonstrative of strength than others. Thus a cream-colored horse with a tail and mane of the same color is rejected for the pack-saddle or for any kind of severe labor, and if horses of this description are sold for these purposes, the price is lower than that of an animal of an equally promising appearance in form and size of any other tinge. They are much esteemed, if well-shaped, as saddle-horses, for short distances. A cream-colored horse with a black-pearled horse with a black tail and mane is reckoned strong. The horses that have one four-leg white and the other of the color of the body are supposed to be liable to stumble. The usual colors are bay and gray, and chestnut, black and cream color are less common. Those most esteemed for work are dark

bays with black tails and manes, and grays dotted with small bay spots. Stalions are broken in both for the saddle and for carrying loads in the neighborhood of the towns, but But the Certanesos, both from necessity and from their knowledge of their superior ability to perform hard labor, make use of geldings. It is not always safe to ride a high-spirited horse in the Certan, because when he begins to neigh instances have occurred of some master horse coming to give him battle, and as both are equally desirous of fighting, the rider may perhaps find himself under the necessity of placing himself at a distance from the combatants.

However, if he should chance to have a good stick in his hand, then can prevent his own horse from rearing as the wild horse approaches, he may come off in safety. Sheep are kept under every estate for their flesh, when that of a more esteemed kind fails, that is either when the oxen are in a meagre state, owing to a long continuance of dry weather, or that the herdsman is too much occupied at home,

or too lazy to go out and kill one. The mutton is never well tasted, and though it is true that in the certown no care whatever is given in rearing or feeding the sheep still i do not think this kind of meat is to be brought to any great perfection footnote when i resided at jaguariba and upon the island of itamarines in the years eighteen thirteen and eighteen fourteen i took some pains in the matter but the meat was not good and though all kinds of flesh in brazil have less flavor than those of the same species of animal in england Still, I think that the mutton of Brazil is more unequal to the mutton of England than is the case respecting the beef of the two countries. End footnote. The lambs are covered with fine wool, and this continues until they are one year and one-half or two years old. After this age, it begins to drop, and is replaced by a species of hair.

Although the wool should remain longer in some instances, it appears to me that it was coarse and short. Footnote. Lieutenant Colonel Joan the Silva Féjo in a pamphlet published at Hio de Janeiro in 1811, on the sheep of the province of Sierra, says that the sheep of that part of the country bear wool which has all the marks of being of a superior quality, that it is in general soft, shining, well curled, of a good length and strong. He again says that the governor, the same of whom I have spoken, sent a small quantity of it to England, which was much admired and esteemed. I did not certainly remark particularly the sheep of Sierra, and his opinion must of course be taken in preference to mine, as this gentleman is the

naturalist of the same province. However, I bought several as food, and their skins were invariably covered in the manner which I have described. When I resided at Jaguaribbe and Itamaraasa, I possessed a considerable number of sheep, and of these I can speak positively. and footnote a wound upon the body of this animal is more difficult to heal than upon that of any other and the flesh of it is of all others the most rapid in its advances to putrefaction the division of property in the c'arton is very indeterminate and this may be imagined when i say that the common mode of defining the size of a fazenda is by computing it at so many leagues or as in some cases by the same cases by so many hundreds of calves yearly, without any reference to the quantity of land. Few persons take the trouble of making themselves acquainted with the exact extent of their own property, and perhaps could not discover it if they made the attempt.

The climate is good. Indeed, the inland flat country is much more healthy than that immediately bordering the coast. I can hardly name any disorders that appear to be peculiar to it, but several are known. Agues are not common, but they exist. Dropsy also they are acquainted with. Ulcers in the legs are common, but less so than upon the coast. Rupures frequently occur. The smallpox.

Footnote. Vaccination is finding its way among them in spite of prejudice, 1815. And footnote. Makes dreadful ravages, and the measles are much dreaded. When the venereal disease has one's seven, the sufferer seldom gets rid of it entirely. Application of herbs are used, but as these people are unacquainted with or unable to follow its proper mode of treatment, some of the patients are crippled, and the major part of them never again enjoy good health. The yaws also are to be met with,

but I had afterwards more opportunities of seeing this complaint, and will therefore not now give any account of it. Instances of consumption occur. The Woopingov did, not appear to be known in any part of the country which I visited, I made many inquiries respecting it, and could not obtain any information upon the subject. I slept many times in the open air and never felt any bad effects from so doing. The dew is trifling, and a high wind as usual in the night. The sun is powerful, and is, of course, particularly felt in traveling over sandy-lose soil, but it did not seem to do any mischief.

I never suffered from headache, and accepting the attack of the ague, which is accounted for from the heavy rain which we experienced, I never enjoyed better health. The food of the inhabitants of the coutain consists chiefly of meat, of which they make three meals, and to this is added the flour of the mangiac stirred up into a paste, or rice sometimes supplies its place. The bean, which is commonly called in England, the French bean, is a favorite food. It is suffered, to run to seed, and is only plucked up when quite dry and hard. I've often been surprised to see how little service maize is to them as food, but yet it is occasionally used. In default of these, the paste of the Karnahupa is made, and I have seen

meat eaten with curds. Of green vegetables they know nothing, and they laugh at the idea of eating any kind of salad. The wild fruits are numerous, and to be obtained in any quantities, but few species are cultivated. Among the latter are the watermelon and the plantain, the cheese of the Certan, which, when it is fresh, is excellent, but after four or five weeks, it becomes hard and tough. Some few persons make butter by shaking the milk in a common black bottle, but this must of course be experimental and not general. In the towns even of the Certone, rancid Irish butter is the only kind which is to be obtained. Wherever the lands admit of it, these people plant mangia, rice, etc.,

but much, I may say the greater part of the vegetable portion of their food, is brought either from more fertile districts near to the coast, or from the settlements still further back, the valleys and skirts of the Carais, Cerre de Tashira, and other inland mountains. The trade of the certeau consists in receiving small quantities of European manufactured goods. Footnote. This branch of the trade, increases most rapidly, 1815. End footnote. The cottoncloth of the country of which they make some

among themselves, a small portion of European white earthenware, and considerable quantities of the dark brown wear of the country, which is made for the most part by the Indians who live in the districts that contain the proper kind of clay, rum and small casks, butter, tobacco, snuff, sugar, and treacle made up in cakes, spurs, bits for bruntlets, idols and other gear for their horses, excepting the saddles of which the greater part are made in their own districts. Gold and silver ornaments also find a market, to a certain amount. The peddlers travel about from village to village and from one estate to another, bartering their commodities for cattle of all kinds, cheese and hides of horned cattle. A colta from two to three years

sells for about one guinea, a horse broken in for the pack saddle for two or three guineas, a horse broken in four mounting, from five to six guineas, a bullock of two years ten shillings, a full-grown ox, one guinea and a half, a cow varies much according to the quantity of milk, from one guinea to five guineas. A sheep from two to three shillings, a goat for slaughter is worth even less, but a good milch-goat is valued at one guinea, and sometimes higher. Children are frequently suckled by goats, which increases the vows. of these animals. The goat that has been so employed always obtains the name of comadres, the term which is made use of between the mother and godmother of a child, and so general is this

that she-goats are frequently called comadres without having had the honor of suckling a young master or mistress. Dogs are sometimes valued it from one to two guineas, and even higher if they are good sporting, or good house and baggage dogs. A fowl is as dear as a sheep, sheep or goat, and in one instance, as has been related, I paid four times the money for one of these birds that I had given for a kid. The hawkers seldom obtain money in exchange for their wares. They take whatever is offered, and hire people to assist in conveying the cattle or produce to a market, where they are exchanged for goods, and then the owner again returns. A twelve-month is sometimes passed in turning over the property once, but the profits are usually

enormous, two or three hundred percent. During my stay at Natal, the governor showed me a species of wax which is produced from the leaves of the Karnahuba, a tree I frequently mentioned. A quantity of this wax was sent by him to Rio de Janeiro. It is mentioned in one of Dr. Ahuda's publications, and a sample of it found its way to England, and has been taken notice of by the Royal Society. The governor in one of his journeys through the province, past the night as often happened, in a peasant's cottage. A wax candle was lighted and placed before him, which was rudely made, but afford a good light. He was somewhat surprised at this because oil is generally used. On making inquiry, he found that the wax dropped from the leaves which covered the cottage during the heat of the day.

I suppose the cottage had been newly built, or that a fresh covering of leaves had been put on to it. He afterwards made the experiment himself, tried some of the candles, and became confident of the importance of the vegetable wax. The governor also gave me a piece of iron ore, which was the produce of the captaincy of Hiogranji. He told me that he entertained little doubt of the existence of considerable quantities of this metal in this part of the country, and that the government would be well recompensed for their trouble if proper persons were appointed for the purpose of making discoveries on subject. I saw some cloth which he had ordered to be woven from the thread of the

carua'ata. Its texture was not unlike that of the coarse linen which is used for sheeting. It is very strong. I have some of the thread in my possession. As soon as I had arranged that I should leave Natal in the morning of the 6th of February, the governor told me that he intended setting off on business relating to his province at the same time. We took leave of each other at night, and in the morning when I arose I found myself in possession of the house, as he had set out at four o'clock. We did not get away until about seven, owing to the number of horses' loads and other matters which it was necessary to arrange. I felt quite at home at Natal, although I was yet distant from Hesifi 70 leagues, but the country is well-watered, well-wooded, and comparatively

well-peopled. I passed again through St. José, the Indian village, but did not be able to be able to but did not turn off from the road toward Paparie. I slept at a hamlet, and in the morning proceeded to Cuniaou. About ten o'clock we were under the necessity of turning loose and leaving behind one of the planes, a horse which I had purchased at Chaffariz, who was completely fagged and could not proceed farther. The colonel of Cuniau was not at home, but his steward wished me to make use of his master's house. However, I merely mentioned having left a horse at some distance upon the lands of the plantation, and the guide drew for his government the mark which it had upon the haunch. I've often observed the quickness of these people in recognizing a mark which they have once seen

and the accuracy with which they will draw it after having taken seemingly a casual glance, and perhaps after a period of some weeks has elapsed since they had even this. footnote. In the year 1813, I was one evening in company when I heard a gentleman request one of the party to ask the Englishmen who were present, if any of them had ever left a horse upon his plantation. I turned round and recognized the colonel of Cuniau. The horse was sent to me about a month afterwards. End footnote. We then rode on half a league to the hamlet. The commonon of this place introduced himself to me and was extremely civil. He put my horse into a stable and wished me to stay until the following morning, but I preferred advancing and slept the same night at another hamlet two

leagues beyond. This day we passed several rivulets which were all much swollen, but none of them were sufficiently full to prevent the continuance of our journey. There had already been some rain, and the face of the country bore a more pleasing appearance. Two letter carriers passed through the place in the evening, and I wrote by them to a friend at Pernambuco that the cottage at the Cruz Das Almas might be ready for me on my arrival. The next day we passed some sugar plantations and over some hills. The country was most beautiful. Everything looked green and healthy. I crossed a considerable rivulet at the foot of a hill, and ascending on the opposite side, put up at a single cottage which was inhabited by white people, an old man, a widower, with a

fine family of handsome sons and daughters. Their cottage had not room for all of us, and therefore we intended to sleep in the open air altogether, but the old man insisted upon my going to sleep in the house, and I was not sorry for this, being rather afraid of a return of the ague. Nearly at sunset, or at close of the day, which in that country are almost about the same time, the tame sheep was missing. Great search was made for it, but to no purpose. The old man ordered two or three of his sons to set out, and not to return until every inquiry had been made in the neighborhood. I did all in my power to prevent giving this trouble, but he persisted, saying,

No, you are under my roof, and this unfortunate circumstance may lead you to have an unfavorable opinion of me. Long after dark, the young men returned with the sheep and a Malakco man in custody. I wished the man to be released, but they said that this could not be, or he was a runaway slave who'd committed many depredations, and for whose apprehension a considerable reward was offered by his master. They had followed the footsteps of the sheep upon a sandy path as long as the daylight lasted, and then they had taken a direction which they thought might lead to some moccambos or huts of the wood made by runaway slaves. After they proceeded a little way, the bleeding of the sheep was heard,

upon which they prepared themselves, and came suddenly upon this far. fellow in a woman who were in a hut. The woman escaped, which they regretted as she was likewise most probably a runaway slave. The man was taken into the house and was tied fast upon a long bench with his face downwards, and the cord was passed around his arms and legs several times. This was done in the room which I was to inhabit for the night. The whole of the family retired to rest and left us together. I had my knife with me, but naturally soon fell asleep. In the morning the bench and the cords remained, but the man was gone. He had crept through a small window at the opposite end of the room.

The young men of the house were sadly vexed, but I told them it was their own fault, for some of them should have kept watch, as they could not suppose that I should remain awake, who had come in fatigued from travelling. We were now afraid that he might have taken one of our horses for his more convenient escape, but this was not the case. Our journey took us again through the village of Mimancho, and a little distance beyond it I left the road, accompanied by the guide, and went to the principal house of a sugar plantation, where we asked for a night's lodging.

I was told that the master was not at home, and great doubt seemed to be entertained of taking us in. Whilst we were talking at the door, a young man of dark color came up, mounted a horse which was standing there without a saddle, and rode off, seemingly avoiding to observe that there were any strangers present. One of the black women said, Why did you not speak to him, for he is one of our young masters? I now inquired and discovered that the owner of the place and his family were mulattoes. This was the only instance of incivility I met with, and the only occasion on which a night's lodging was denied to me during the whole course of my stay in Brazil.

We lodged this night under a tree, distant about 100 yards from the Ingenio, near to a neat and comfortable-looking cottage, of which the owner was an elderly woman. She was civil to us, and expressed her sorrow at the treatment which we had received. There had been very little rain here, for the grass and the field of the plantation had still a parched look, and the cattle were in bad condition. Toward the evening of the following day we reached to Hamlet, and at one of the cottages I obtained permission to pass the night. There was a penthouse standing out from the front. These are usual even for dwellings of wealthy persons.

Under it I slung my hammock, but was surprised to find that, though the house was inhabited, still the door was shut, and that the person within spoke to us, but did not open it. This I thought strange, and began to suppose that he might be afflicted with some contagious disorder, and had been forsaken by his friends, or rather that his family had been advised or moved to some neighbouring cottage. But the guide explained, saying that the man had been bit, bitten by a snake, and that the bite of this species only became fatal if the man who had received it saw any female animal, and particularly a woman, for thirty days after the misfortune.

As the lower orders imagine that all snakes are poisonous, it is not surprising that many remedies or charms should be quoted as efficacious. It is well known that many of these reptiles are inoxious, but as this is not believed by the people in general, it is naturally to be supposed that any cause rather than the true one is assigned on a recovery from a bite. On the morrow we left these good people in expectation of their friend's restoration to health and at the allotted period, and proceeded to dine on the banks of the river Parraiba at a spot which was not far distant from the plantation of Espiritu Santo, where we had slept on our way northward. The river was still as dry as it had been during the drought, that is, the pools are high,

hollows in the bed of it had water in them, but they did not contain a sufficient quantity to overflow, unite, and form a stream. We arrived upon the banks about ten o'clock, and heard from several persons of a report which had been spread, that the river was filling fast. At about twelve o'clock the water made its appearance, and before we left it, the river was three feet deep. We afterwards heard that the stream was not fordable at five o'clock of the same afternoon, and that it continued to run with great rapidity for some days. I went round to a Spirito Santo and spoke to the Capitán Moore, and did not dismount as I was more and more anxious to end my journey.

We slept at a single cottage about two leagues beyond, and on the following morning again set forth. About noon, for I had pushed on without resting until this hour, we were descending a long and steep hill, when a violent shower of rain came on, which soon caused a torrent to run with much noise and velocity through the gullies in the road. The clay of which the hill was composed was rendered excessively slippery and far from proceeding more quickly. The horses became more cautious, and on these occasions it is needless to attempt

to urge them forwards faster than they themselves are willing to go. They are aware of the danger of a false step, and nothing that the rider can do, will make an old roadster alter his usual manner or proceeding. At the foot of the hill stood a venda or liquor shop, at which travelers were in the habit of putting up. Most of the hamlets contained one of these places, and we had met with them much more frequently since we had entered upon the great cattle road. Wet as we were, through and through, it would have been impossible to go further that

day. Therefore we were thankful for having a house so near. Indeed, the rain continued during the greatest part of the afternoon. We had descended into a narrow and beautiful valley, much of which was covered with flourishing plantations of sugarcane, looking very green and luxuriant. This was not the first night that I had seen the beautiful luminous insect, a latter d'actiluccas, which is called by the Portuguese Casafogo. It is to be met with chiefly in well-wooded lands, and admits that intervals is strong but

short-lived light. After leaving this place the next morning we discovered that we had lost some trifles belonging to our baggage. I sent the guide and another man back to seek for them, but they returned unsuccessful. We had, it is true, seldom taken up our lodgings in public houses, but perhaps if we had done so oftener, I should have had more reason to complain. However, as it is, this was the only occasion upon which I lost any part of my baggage, with a suspicion of theft detect. to its disappearing. We rested at midday near Doyskios, and in the afternoon passed through that place, arriving at Guayana about sunset. It would be remembered that I purchased some of my

horses at Guayana, now on my return, two of the same animals were still with me, and this alone proves that they were of the best kind. When we were distant from Guayana about one league, one of them made towards a narrow path to the right of the road, and was prevented to the it by his driver from turning up into it. But immediately after passing it, he began to flag, and in a few minutes I was under the necessity of having him released from his load, and of desiring one of the men to lead him, otherwise he would have turned back. He had from this time the appearance of being quite fatigued. I could only account for this circumstance by supposing that the path led to his former master's residence, and that the animal had preceded thus far an expectation of

ending his journey here. I was received by my friends at Guyana in their usual friendly manner, but I found that the town was in a dreadful state from the scarcity of provisions. One person was said to have died of hunger, and I was told by an inhabitant that several respectable women had been at his house to beg for Farina, offering to pawn their gold ornaments for it. On the morning of the 15th of February, I left Guyana and assisted my people in crossing the river. As soon as they were all safe on the Hesifi side of it, I pushed on, accompanied by Julio and Feliciano. All three of us being mounted upon our best horses. We rested during the heat of the day at Iguodhassu. My horse recognized the place, for as he entered the town, he quickened his pace,

and without being guided went up to the door of the inn, for once he refused to stir again until I dismounted. We arrived a little after sunset at the cruise Dasalmas. John was prepared for me, but did not expect me for one or two days. The following morning I rode to Hesifi and was received by my friends as one who had been somewhat despaired of, and even my particular friend to whom I had written, did not expect me so soon. When I returned home in the evening the rest of the party had arrived, and Feliciano and his two companions set off two days afterward on their return to Sierra. Footnote. In the year 1812, I met Feliciano and one of the others, who was his brother-in-law in one of the streets of Hesifi. They recollected me, and I was stopped by both of them getting hold of my coat on each side.

They asked me if I was going again to travel, for if I was, they said that they were unemployed and would go with me. me. Their attack had so much the appearance of being more in violence than in the gladness of old friendship, that one or two of my acquaintance, who chanced to pass at the time, stopped and inquired what was the matter, supposing that I had got into some scrape. These fellows literally held me fast until I had answered all their questions. Their fidelity seems to militate from the general unfavorable character which I have given of the Indians, but unfortunately individual instances prove very little. End footnote.

Julio likewise left me, with which I was much displeased. Footnote. I had imagined that he did not intend to return again into my service, but on my second voyage to Pernambuco, I found him at the house of one of my friends, employed as a household servant, and I heard that he had come down to Hesifi two days after I left the place for the purpose of remaining with me,

but as I was gone he had entered into the service in which I found him. Julio was in exception to almost all the bad qualities of the Indians, and if I was again to travel in that country, I should use every endeavor to have him in my company. He belonged to Alhandra. End of Chapter 8, Part 2. Section 12 of Travels in Brazil, Volume 1 by Henry Costa. The sleeper-box recording us in the public domain.

Chapter 9 Part 1 Voyage from Pernambuco to Marignan. St. Louis, Trade, Wild Indians, the governor, Alcantara. The author sails from St. Louis and arrives in England. Eight days after my return from Sierra, arrived a vessel from England, bringing letters which obliged me to leave Pernambuco and proceed to Marignaniam. as a cargo could not be obtained for the brig at the former place,

the consignee determined to send her to Marignan, and being myself desirous of taking advantage of the first opportunity, I prepared for the voyage and sailed in the course of 48 hours. We weighed anchor on the 25th of February and had a prosperous passage of seven days. We were inside of the land nearly the whole time, and occasionally as the brig was small, and the master wished, if possible, to become acquainted with the points of land, we were very near

to it. The Portuguese ships seldom come up this coast without a pilot, nor is it prudent to do otherwise, but we could not obtain one without delay, to which the master objected. He had scarcely ever before been out of the British seas, but their school is good, and now he found his way to Madaniam, with as much dexterity as an experienced pilot. This coast is generally known to be dangerous, And the land has, for the most part, a dreary and dismal look, particularly after passing hill Grange. We entered the bay of St. Marcos, with a lead going, took the channel to the eastward of the Baishu-Domeo, or Middle Bank, passed the fort of St. Marcos, and came to an anchor opposite and very near to the sandbanks at the mouth of the harbor of St. Louis. As no pilot came off to

us, the master of myself got into the boat, intending to fetch one, but on coming opposite to the fort of St. Francisco, a gun without shot was fired, and the sentinel beckoned us back to the ship. We pulled for the fort, and when we approached it, an enormous speaking trumpet was produced, and through it we received orders not to proceed to the city. However, we landed at the fort, and I told the officer that the master was particularly desirous of having a pilot as he was unacquainted with a bay or port, and it is well known that they contain many sand banks. We were answered that the pilot would come in due time,

and finally remonstrance of no avail returned to the ship. When the pilot arrived, he was accompanied by a soldier and a custom-house officer. It was with some difficulty that I could persuade the master to allow the former to come into the vessel. sailors and soldiers never very well agree, and the blunt Englishman said he had no idea of his ship being taken from him by a fellow in a party-coloured jacket. This was a new regulation. Indeed, in most of those regarding the port of Marignan, I could not avoid recollecting the old proverb of much cry, etc. As the brig came up the harbor, we received the health and custom-house visit,

who was composed of several well-dressed men, some of whom wore cocked hats and swords, and all of them ate much bread and cheese and drank quantities of porter. The administrator of the customs was among them, and was dressed in the uniform of a cavalry officer. I scarcely ever saw so much astonishment pictured in the countenance of any man as in that of the master of the brig. He had been accustomed to enter our own ports, whereas so much business is done and so quaternance, a manner, and he now said to me in half joke, half earnest, why is not only one, but they are coming in shoals to take the ship from me? After all these personages and all the trouble they had given us, I was still obliged to pass the night on board, because the Guartre Amour,

the officer especially appointed to prevent smuggling, had not made his visit. Fortunately, I found means of having the letters conveyed on shore. Otherwise, the vessel would arrive four and twenty hours before the merchant, to whom she was consigned, could have obtained any information regarding her. To render the night still more disagreeable, some heavy rain fell. The deck was leaky, and about midnight I was obliged to rise and look for a dry corner. The city of St. Louis, situated upon the island of Marignan, and the metropolis of the Estado, or state of Marignan, is the residence of a captain-general and the sea of a bishop, It is built upon very unequal ground, commencing from the water's edge, and extending to the distance of about one mile and a half in the northeast direction.

The space which it covers ought to contain many more inhabitants than is actually the case, but the city is built in a straggling manner, and it comprises some broad streets and squares. This gives it an airy appearance which is apparently pleasant in so warm or climate, its situation upon the western part of the island. and upon one side of a creek, almost excludes it from the sea breeze, by which means the place is rendered less healthy than if it was more exposed. The population may be computed at about 12,000 persons, or more, including Negroes, of which the proportion is great, being much more considerable than at Pernambuco. The streets are mostly paved, but are out of repair. The houses are many of them neat and pretty and of one-story and height. The lower part of them is appropriated to the servants, to shops without windows, to warehouses and other purposes, as at Pernambuco. The family

lives upon the upper story, and the windows of this reach down to the floor and are ornamented with iron balconies. The churches are numerous, and there are likewise Franciscan, Carmelite, and other convents. The places of worship are gaudily decorated in the inside, but No plan of architecture is aimed at in the formation of the buildings themselves, with the exception of the convents, which preserve the regular features appertaining to such edifices. The governor's palace stands upon rising ground not far from the waterside, with the front towards the town. It is a long, uniform stone building of one-story and height. The principal entrance is wide, but without a portico. The western end joins the town hall in prison, which

appear to be part of the same edifice, and the oblong piece of ground in its front, covered with grass, gives it, on the whole, a handsome and striking appearance. One end of this is open to the harbor and to afford in the hollow close to the water. The other extremity is nearly closed by the cathedral. One side is almost taken up with the palace and other public buildings, and the opposite space is occupied by dwelling houses and streets leading down into other parts of the city. The ground upon which the whole place stands is composed of a soft red stone, so that the smaller streets leading from the town into the country, some of which are not paved, are full of gullies,

through which the water runs in the rainy season. These streets are formed of houses consisting only of the ground floor and having thatched roofs. The windows are without glass, and the dwellings have a most mean and shabby appearance. The city contains a custom house and treasury. The former is small, but was quite large enough for the business of the place, until lately. The harbor is formed by a creek in the island and is to be entered from the Bay of St. Marcos. The channel is of sufficient depth for common-sized merchant ships, but it is very narrow and not to be entered without a pilot. Opposite to the town, the water is shallow at the ebb. It is worthy of remark that the tide rises gradually more and more along the coast of Brazil,

from south to north. Thus at Hio de Janeiro, the rise is said to be trifling. At Pernambuco it is from five to six feet. At I tamarasa eight feet, and at Marignan, it is eighteen feet. The forts of Marignan are all of them said to be in bad order. I heard one person observe, half in earnest, that he did not suppose each fort contained more than four guns which were in a fit state to be fired. I did not see that of St. Marcos, which is situated at the entrance of the bay, but it is reported to be in the same state as the others. Those I saw are small and built of stone. The soldiers were well-dressed and well-fed, and they looked respectable. The barracks are new and large, comparatively speaking, and have been built in an airy situation in the outskirts of the

city. The garrison consists of one regimen of regular infantry of about 1,000 men when complete, but these are much divided, being stationed in several forts. Recruits are formed of the lower orders of white persons and of the people of color. The men were never exercised with the artillery, and were merely accustomed to the common routine of mounting guard, though a few detachments have on some occasions been sent on to the mainland at the back of the island. to assist the planters against the wild Indians. The island of Maragnan forms the southeast side of the Bay of St. Marcos. Consequently, this bay is to the westward side of it.

To the eastward of the island is the Bay of St. Jose, from some similarity between the point of Ita Colomi, by which vessels are in part guided when about to enter the Bay of St. Marcos, and another point of land upon the small island of St. Anna, which is at the entrance of the Bay of St. Jose. Instances have occurred of vessels mistaking the latter for the former in entering the Bay of St. Jose. This error causes great danger and inconvenience,

because, owing to the prevalence of easternly winds, it is next to impossible for a vessel to beat her way out of it. It is therefore necessary that she should go through the narrow channel between the mainland and the island of Marignan, a passage of considerable difficulty. Footnote. The information which is contained in this note I had from Captain Juan Romano

of the Spanish ship St. Jose of 300 tons burden. He received orders to proceed from Rio de Janeiro to Marignam for the purpose of loading cotton in the commencement of the year 1815. He arrived out the settlement of Sierra and sent on shore for a pilot to take him to St. Louis. He was informed that none resided at Sierra, but that he would find one at

Jericho, Quarara, a high hill between Sierra and Parnaiba. On arriving near to this place, he discovered an Indian in a canoe fishing, who came on board and offered to pilot him to St. Louis. This was agreed to, and they proceeded, but from mistaken the two points of land and the manner mentioned above, the Indian took the vessel into the Bay of St. Jose on the 15th of March. They kept the lead going, even before they discovered the error into which they had been led, as is the custom with all vessels bound to St. Louis. The ship was brought to an anchor off the village of St. Jose, which is situated upon the northeast point of the island of Marignan,

in eleven fathoms water. Whilst they continued in the mid-channel of the bay, they found from 18 to 20 fathoms. The depth of water regularly decreases from the center of the bay towards the land on each side, but it contains no insulate sandbanks. The ship was at anchor off the village of St. Jose two days. They then proceeded through the channel, which is enclosed on either side by mangroves and is so narrow in some parts that the yards at times brushed against the branches. The wind was fair, and they sailed through without being obliged to, tow or warp the ship. The depth of water varied from five to two and a half fathoms. The bottom was of

mud. About halfway through the channel, the tide from the Bay of St. Jose and that from the Bay of St. Marcus meet. This takes place nearly, but not quite, opposite to the mouth of the river, Itapikuru. There were two days in sailing from the Anchorage ground at St. Jose to the island of Taua, which is situated near to the southwest corner. of the island of Montignan. Here the ship came to an anchor in nine-fathoms water, with a sandy bottom. The captain sent to St. Luis for another pilot, as the man who had brought them thus far was not acquainted with the remainder of the navigation. The island of Tauwa is rocky and uninhabited, and is covered with palm trees. The village of St. José appeared to Captain Trevino to be

of considerable size, but with the exception of two or three, the houses were prepared to be. build of slight timber and of the leaves of different species of palm trees. Its inhabitants were mostly fishermen. He mentioned that he saw a shoemaker at work there. Captain Trevino understood from his pilot that the river Itapikaru is at its mouth 120 yards wide, and that its depth is one fathom and a half. End footnote. The Bay of St. Marcos is spotted with several beautiful islands, and is of sufficient extent to admit of considerable grandeur. The width of St. Luis to the opposite shore is between four and five leagues. Its length is much greater.

Towards the south end there are several sandbanks, and the water is shallower. It receives here the waters of a river along the banks of which are situated several catalystates, but the river Itapikaru, which runs into the narrow channel between the mainland and the island, enjoys the greatest share of cultivation. Its banks are extremely fertile, and upon them have been established the principal plantations of cotton and rice, which are the two chief and almost only articles of commerce from the city of St. Louis. The island is in itself very little cultivated. There is no considerable plantation upon it.

A few of the rich merchants residing in the city have country houses distant from it, about one league, but the remainder of the lands are left untouched, owing, as is said to the unfitness of the soil, for the purposes of agriculture. Footnote. Chouin the fourth sent over one Bartholomeu Baheros de Atteide, with three miners, one of Venetian and the other two French, to search for gold and silver. After two years' search up the Amazons,

they returned to Marignan, and offered to supply the people with iron at a crusado, about two shillings four pence, per quintal, a hundred and twenty-eight pounds weight, if the state would engage to take all that they should produce at that price. The people were afraid to enter into any such contract. The island was so rich in this orb that foreign cosmographers called it the Ilya dofejo in their maps, and all who came there with any knowledge of the subject said that it was ore of the best quality,

a thing of great importance to Portugal, which bought all its iron, and yet this discovery was neglected. from a memoir of Manuel Gades Arania, Procurador from Marignon, 1685 in volume 6, Pinero collection of manuscripts in the possession of Mr. Southey. A royal manufacturing of iron has been established in the captaincy of St. Paolo, called the Royal Fabric of South Juan G. I obtained a knowledge of the fact from two letters in numbers 45 and 56 of the Investigator, Portugues, a periodical publication published in London. I'm sorry to say that the two letters to which I allude have arisen from some differences existing among the directors of the fabric.

End footnote. There is a horse path through the island to a house which stands immediately opposite to the mouth of the river, Itapakoru. At this is stationed a canoe for the purpose of conveying people from one shore to the other. Another horse path also leads to the village and chapel of St. Jose. The importance of the province has increased very rapidly. Previous to the last 60 years, no cotton was exported, and I heard that when the first parcel was about to be shipped, a petition was made by several of the inhabitants to the Camara or municipality, requesting that the exportation might not be permitted, for otherwise

they fear that there would be a want of the article for a consumptial. of the country. This, of course, was not attended to, and now the number of bags exported annually is between 40,000 and 50,000, averaging about 180 pounds weight each. Footnote, I've just in time received the following statement of the exportation of cotton from Marignam, from the year 1809 to 1815. 1809 to Great Britain in 51 vessels, 55,835,000835 bags, to other parts, 29 vessels, 21,6 bags. 1810 to Great Britain in 37 vessels, 40,684 bags. To other parts, 19 vessels, 11,793 bags.

1811 to Great Britain in 36 vessels, 48,705 bags, to other parts in 19 vessels, 6,053 bags. 1812 to Great Britain in 29 vessels, 35,767 bags, to other parts, 29 vessels, 49 vessels, 4,803. 1813 to Great Britain in 35 vessels, 50,072 bags, to other parts in 27 vessels, 10,101 bags. 1814 to Great Britain in 22 vessels, 31,205 bags, to other ports in 34 vessels, 14,246 bags, 1815 to Great Britain, 32 vessels, 28,539 bags, to other parts in 49 vessels, 22,216 bags. Close footnote. The quantity of rice grown there is likewise great. Footnote.

A person of the name of Belfort First Planet Rice at Marignam, and some of his descendants now reside there in opulence. Close footnote. But the sugar, which is required for the consumption of the province, is brought from the ports to the southward. Some sugarcane has lately been planted, but hitherto molasses only have been made. I heard many persons say that the lands are not adapted to the growth of the sugar cane. Footnote.

There were five sugarworks, or engines, as they are called, at Itapikaru, which compounded for 5,000 Ahobas of their produce. On the island there were six engines in full employed. 1641. History of Brazil, Volume 2, page 9. End footnote. The cotton and rice are brought to St. Louis in barks of about 25 or 30 tons burden. These come down the rivers with a stream from their plantations. The return is not, however, so easy, as they are obliged to be rowed or warped. But being then empty or nearly so, the difficulty is not. very great. Considerable quantities of manufactured goods have been sent out from Great Britain since the opening of the trade, as has been done to the other principal ports upon the coast,

but a ready sale has not been found for them here to any great amount. The province of Marignan will not bear comparison with that of Pernambuco. It is still in an infant state. There still exist wild Indians, and the plantations upon the mainland are still in danger from their attacks. The proportion of free persons is much smaller. The slaves very much preponderate. But this class can, of necessity, use but little of what is in any degree expensive, or what in such a climate is mere luxury. There exists at St. Louis a great inequality of ranks.

The chief richest of the place are in the hands of a few men who possess land at property to a great extent. Numerous gangs of slaves and are also merchants. The wealth of these persons and the characters of service, some of the individuals who enjoy it have raised them to great weight and consequence, and indeed one governor knows to his cost that without their concurrence it was useless to attempt the introduction of the innovations proposed, and impossible to trample long upon the rest of the community. But the great inequality of rank bespeaks the advancement of this place to have been

less rapid than of other settlements further south, where the society is more amalgamated and property more divided. As a port of trade with Europe, St. Louis may be accounted the fourth establishment upon the coast of Brazil and point of importance, giving precedence to Rio de Janeiro, Bia and Pernambuco. The wild Indians have occasionally crossed from the mainland to the island, and have committed depredations upon the houses and gardens in the neighborhood of St. Louis. Some of these people have been at different times made prisoners and brought to the town. where very little pains, I fear, have been taken to conciliate them. I did not see any of them, but they were represented to me as most frightful beings.

Their features are excessively ugly, and the hair is black and preposterously long, both before and behind. They are of a dark copper color, darker than Indians that have been domesticated. The last individuals taken, to the number of four or five, were brought into the town quite naked, were put into close confinement, and I was informed that there they died. I could not find out that any attempt had been made to send them back as mediators, or that any plan of conciliation had been entered into. And on mentioning something of this kind, I was in more than one instance told that it would be of no use,

that rigor was the only method. I do not think that this is the general opinion regarding them, but I much apprehend that but faint hopes can be entertained, of any zeal being shown by their civilization. There are now no enthusiastic missionaries. The Jesuits no longer exist in that country, and the other orders of friars have become lazy and worse than useless. However, the Indians cannot be enslaved, therefore at least they are not hunted down like wild cattle, as formerly was the practice. The name which is given generally both here and at Perna Boko to all wild Indians is Tapuya, and that of Kabokulak, and that of Kabok,

is applied to those who have been domesticated. Having thus given an outline of the place at which I had arrived, I may now leave my quarters on board the brig and be allowed to land, which I accomplished on the morning subsequent to that of our entrance into the harbor. I was received upon the key by my friend, a young Portuguese with whom I had been intimate at England and at Pernobuco. He told me it was necessary to go to the palace for the purpose of presenting my passport,

as the regulations of the port had for some time been most strictly followed, and several indeed had been lately added. I then, for the first time, recollected that I had no passport, having forgotten to obtain one, owing to the haste with which I left Pernambuco, this produced a demure as my friend was afraid that I should be imprisoned, the governor not being friendly to Englishmen. However, I determined to call myself the supercargo of the brig. We proceeded to the palace, the entrance to which was guarded by two sentinels,

and we passed several others in going up the stairs into the ante-chamber, where we were received by a gentleman-like officer, who heard what I had to say, asked no questions, and soon dismissed us. I thought I had seen the great man himself, but was undeceived, and heard that he seldom honored anyone with an audience. The officer to whom we had spoken was the lieutenant-colonel the regiment colonel of the regiment, infantry. The guard at the palace consisted of one company. The muskets were piled in front of the chief entrance and appeared to be in good order. I soon discovered that St. Louis was ruled with most despotic

sway. The people were afraid of speaking, as no man knew how soon it might be his fate to be arrested from some trifling expression which he might allow to escape him. The governor was so tenacious of the honors due to his station that he required every person who crossed the area in front of his own to the palace, to remain uncovered until he had entirely passed the whole building, not that the governor was himself always in view, but this adoration was thought necessary even to the building within which he dwelt. The distinction until then reserved by the Romish Church for its highest dignitaries was, however, not thought by his excellency, too exalted for himself. The bells of the cathedral rang every time he went out in his carriage. Persons even of the first rank in the place

were to stop, if in their carriages or on horseback, when they met him, and were to allow him to pass before they were again to move forwards. End of Section 12. Section 13 of Travels in Brazil, Volume 1, by Henry Koster. This LeBrovoc's recording is in the public domain. Chapter 9. Part 2 I was introduced to several of the first merchants and planters, and particularly to the Colonel's José Gonzalves da Silva, and Simplicio diesta Silva. The latter is the sub-governor of Parnaiba, a small port, situated about three degrees to the eastward of St. Louis. They are both of them,

men of great wealth and of independent spirit. The former is an elderly man, who has made a large fortune and trade, and latterly has increased it by planting cotton. He possesses between 1,500 slaves. On one occasion, a mulatto driver of his carriage, though ordered by his master to stop, that the governor might pass, refused so to do. The following day an officer came to the old gentleman's house with orders to arrest the man. The colonel sent for him and said, go and I'll take care of you, adding to the officer, tell his excellency I have still several other drivers. To the surprise of every person about the prison, two servants made their appearance in the evening with a tray, covered with a cloth which was handsomely embroidered, and filled with the best

kind of victuals. Sweetmits, etc. were not forgotten. All this was for the driver, and was repeated it three times every day until the man received an order for his release. The Colonel Simplicio had been sent for by the governor of St. Louis. Had it not been for the circumstances in which he was placed, I should have gone down to his residence at Parnaiba. He has there a most notable establishment, part of which consists of a band of musicians, who are his own slaves. Some of them have been instructed at Lisbon and at Rio de Janeiro. It is through such men as these that improvements are to be expected. I likewise became acquainted with a gentleman who had been imprisoned for a trifling breach of some new port regulation,

and if its friends were allowed free ingress to see him, and I passed some pleasant evenings with him and other persons who were in the habit of assembling there. He was allowed two small rooms in the prison, and was confined in this manner for several months. The Oviedoor of the province was also suspended from exercising the functions of his office, removed from St. Louis and imprisoned in one of the forts. The Juistejoforah, the second judicial officer, performed for the time the duties of the situation. He was a Brazilian and a man of independent character who spoke and acted freely, notwithstanding the ostensible place he held and the danger of it under such a government.

The master of an English merchant ship I was told had been arrested for some breach of port regulation and was confined in a miserable dungeon for three days. I heard many more stories of the same nature, but these will, I think, suffice to show the state of the city of St. Louis at the time, and just before I visited the place. The governor was a very young man, and a member of one of the first noble families of Portugal. footnote. He's been removed, was ordered to Lisbon, and ultimately on his return to Rio de Janeiro was refused admittance for a short time to the Prince region. End footnote. There are few situations in which it is so greatly in a man's power to be much beloved or much disliked as that of governor of a province in Brazil, in which a man may be either the benefactor or the scourge of the people over whom he is sent to rule. My friend's residence in which

I stayed during my visit to Marignan was situated by the water-side, and almost with a hail of the ships at anchor in the harbor. I was amused sometimes at the rapidity with which the fishermen paddled their canoes. These are long, and of just width sufficient to allow of two men sitting abreast. I've seen in one of them as many as sixteen men in two rows, with each of a paddle, which they move with quickness and great regularity. The last man upon the bench steers the canoe when necessary, placing the paddle so as to answer the purpose of a rudder. One or other, the two men steering,

according to the direction which the vessel is to take. These fellows are mostly dark-colored mulattoes and blacks, and entirely naked excepting the hats which they wear upon their heads. But when they come on shore, they partially clothe themselves. The nakedness of the Negro slaves is not sufficiently concealed. Neither males nor females have any covering from the west upward, excepting on Sundays and holidays. Though the climate may not require any more clothing,

decency certainly does. I speak here of slaves who are at work in the streets, for the household servants are at least tolerably covered, and some of them are neatly and even gaudily dressed. At Pernambuco, the slaves are always decently clothed. The criminals who are to be seen chained together, as at Pernambuco, are here more numerous, and in walking the streets the clanking of the chains is continually strike in the year, reminding every man of the state of the government under which he resides. Such is the power of a governor that a respectable person might be sentenced to this dreadful punishment, at least until redress could be obtained from the seat of the supreme government at Hio de Janeiro, a period of four. four months or more intervening.

I brought with me the horse which had carried me as far as Hiro-Grange on my journey to Sierra, and took several rides in the neighborhood of the city, with an English gentleman who was residing there. The roads are extremely bad, even in the immediate vicinity of St. Louis, and our usual practice was to ride several times round the open piece of ground upon which the barracks stand. Marignanue is again in this respect far behind the place, I had lately left. The number of country houses is small. The paths are few and no care is taken of them. Notwithstanding this, several persons have carriages, which are of a form similar to those used in Lisbon, and not unlike the cabrioles drawn by a pair of horses, which are to be seen in France and

Flanders. The horses that may be purchased at St. Louis are small, and few of them are well-formed. grass is scarce, and the inducements to take exercise on horseback are so few that the number of these animals upon the island is not considerable. This too may be one cause why fine horses are not to be met with there, for if a ready sail was found for the beasts of this description, some would doubtless be carried from Piaoui to Marignan, which might be done with almost as little difficulty, as is experienced in conveying many of them from the interior of Pernabuco to Hesife. An English gentleman with whom I was acquainted arrived at Marignan, a short time after the opening of the trade to British shipping. He was riding in the vicinity of the city one afternoon,

when he was accosted by an old woman, who said that she had heard of the arrival of an Englishman and wished to know if it was true, as she was going to St. Louis, and much desire to, and much desire to to see this bishu or animal. After some further conversation upon the subject, he told her that the bishu she was speaking to was the Englishman himself. Of the truth of this, some difficulty was found in persuading her, but when she was confident that it was so, she cried out, Aye, da'anito. Oh, how handsome. She expected to have been shown some horridly ugly beast, which it was dangerous to approach, and was kind of. Consequently, agreeably surprised to find that she was mistaken, and to see flesh and blood and human

form, handsomely put together. I nearly lost a number of books which I had brought with me. The box containing them was carried to the custom-house. They were taken out, and I was desired to translate each title page, which I did. Though the works were chiefly historical, still I found that the officer who looked over them was not inclined to let me have them, and a hint was given to me by one of my acquaintance, that they might be considered as irrecoverable. However, I made immediately a petition to the governor to be allowed to send them on board again. This was granted, thus I regained possession.

If I had delayed, I am almost certain that I should not have seen them again. Such are the difficulties which are experienced with books in the parts of Brazil which I visited, that the only resource which remains is that of smuggling them into the country. Footnote. It is not, perhaps generally known that there are published in London three or four Portuguese periodical works. One of them is prohibited in Brazil, and I have heard it said that all of them are so situated, but they are principally intended for Brazilian readers, and they find their way all over the country, notwithstanding the prohibition.

I have seen them in the hands of civil, military, and ecclesiastical officers, and have heard them publicly spoken of by them. It is said that the Regent reads them, and is occasionally pleased with the invectives against some of the men in power. End footnote. I hope, however, that the enlightened minister, who is now at the head of affairs at Hio de Janeiro, will put an end to this dreadful bar to improvement. I brought a letter from one of my acquaintance at Pernambuco to a gentleman who resided at

Alcantara, a town on the opposite side of the bay at St. Marcos, my friend at St. Louis, and other young Portuguese and myself, accompanied by two servants, agreed to hire a vessel and go over for the purpose of making him a visit and have seen the place. We hired a small bark and set sail one morning early, with a fair but light wind. The beauties of the bay are only to be seen in crossing it. The number of islands diversify the view every five minutes from the discovery of some hidden point or from a change in the form of the land, owing to the progress of the boat. The entrance into the harbor of Alcantara, the town itself, and the size of the vessel in which we were, reminded me much of the models of these realities. The place, the port, and our boat

were all small in a proportionate dimensions, having much the appearance of playthings. It was not like a small vessel entering a large harbor, for in our case as there was but little water upon the bar, as much pilotage was necessary as with a large ship and coming to anchor at St. Louis. We were about five hours in reaching the end of our voyage. The boatman obtained for us a small cottage near to the beach. We intended to be independent and have our victuals cooked by our own servants, but soon after we were settled in our new habitation, the gentleman introduced himself to whom we were furnished with a letter. He said that he had heard of our arrival, and he insisted upon our removal to his house.

The town is built upon a semi-circular hill, and at first sight from the port is very pretty, but it falls short of its promise on a nearer examination. The houses are many of them of one-story and height, and are built of stone, but the major part have only the ground floor. The town extends back to some distance in a straggling manner, with gardens and large spaces between each house,

and many of the habitations in that, that situation are thatched, and some of them are out of repair. As the hill which rises from the water-side is not high, and the land beyond rather declines in a contrary direction, the meaner part of the town is not to be seen at the first few. Alcantara is, however, a thriving place, and its importance increases rapidly, as the lands in the neighborhood are in request for cotton plantations. A handsome stone key was building upon the inside of a neck of land, round, round which the harbor extends for small craft. The place contains a town hall and prison, and several churches. The evening we passed with our new friend and his partner, both of them were pleasant men.

The latter took us to a neighboring church to hear a famous preacher, and to see all the fashion and beauty of the place. It was much crowded, and therefore we saw little or nothing of the congregation. But the preacher, a large handsome Franciscan friar, with a fine tone and clear voice, delivered a very florid discourse with much energy and animation this man and one other were the only persons of those i heard preach in brazil who deviated from the common praises usually given to the virgin and to the saints it was a good practical sermon inculcating moral duties but by way of conformity to established custom he now and then mentioned the worthy in whose honor the festival was given footnote about twelve months after Afterward, I had an opportunity of being personally known to this man, and found him to be very superior to any individual of his or any other order of friars with whom I have been acquainted. And footnote.

The next day was agreeably passed in conversation, and in the evening two guitars were introduced, and some of the young men of the place came in, and added to the amusement of the party. They sang and played, and there was much sport. There was no ceremony, but the behavior of these people was gentlemanly and their conversation entertaining. I heard here of a certain estate, of which the slaves were numerous, but they had become rebellious. More than one steward had been killed by them, and for some time they remained without any person to direct them, but still they did not leave the place.

When things had gone on in this manner for some time, a native of Portugal presented himself to the proprietor of the estate, and offered to take charge of it if he would allow him a salary of one conto of Hayes, about 250% annually, which is an enormous stipend, and if he would sign an agreement by which he should not become responsible for any slaves who might be killed in reducing the remainder to obedience. To all this no objection was made, and the man set off, accompanied by two other persons, his friends, and a guide, all of them being well provided with firearms and ammunition. They arrived upon the scene of action one evening, and finding the door of the principal house opened, took up their lodgings in it. In the morning several of the negroes on discovering

the intentions of the persons who were in possession of the house, assembled in the area in front of it, but at some little distance. The new steward soon came to the door unarmed, not permitting his companions to appear, and called to one of the ringleaders by name, as if nothing was amiss. The man answered, and came out of the group, but said that he would not approach any nearer than the spot to which he had advanced. The steward made no reply, but quickly took a loaded musket, which stood immediately within the door, fired, and brought the man to the ground, and without delay called to another of the slaves also by name. No answer being given, his companions came forward, and all of them fired in among the slaves. Such was the effect of this summary manner

of proceeding, that in two or three days all was quiet, and went on smoothly, as had formerly been the case, a few only of the slaves abscounding. On a return from Alcantara we had a disagreeable passage, as the wind blew hard and some heavy rain fell, which made us apprehensive of not being able to reach the harbor of St. Louis. Our vessel had no cabin, but she was decked, and therefore, as a matter of necessity, we crept into the hold, and which we could not stand upright, and the village water occasionally reached our feet. But this produced much laughter, and we ultimately arrived in safety. Not far from the mouth of the port of Alcantara stands an island of three miles in length, and about one in breath, called Ilya do Livramento.

it is inhabited by one man and woman who have under their care a chapel dedicated to our lady of deliverance which is visited by the inhabitants of the neighboring shores once every year for the purpose of celebrating by a festival this invocation of the virgin my departure from marignan sooner than i had purposed at first prevented the fulfilment of my intention of landing and spending a day upon this spot i know not what idea i might have formed of the i know not what idea i might have formed of the island if I had more narrowly examined it, but the view I had of it at a distance was extremely beautiful. From what I heard of it, I think that if anyone was about to settle at Marignan, here it is that he should try to fix his residence. I was introduced by my friend to a respectable family of St. Louis. We made them a visit one evening without invitation, as is the custom, and were ushered into a tolerably sized room, furnished with a large bed in three handsomely worked hammocks, which were swung across in different directions.

There were likewise in the apartment a chest of drawers in several chairs. The mistress of the house, an elderly lady, was seated in a hammock and a female visitor in another, but her two daughters and some male relations sat upon chairs. The company, which consisted of two or three men besides ourselves, formed a semi-circle towards the hammocks. There was much ceremony, and the conversation was carried on chiefly by the men, and an occasional remark was made by one or other of the old ladies. An answer was given by the daughters to a question asked, but no more, and some of the subjects touched upon what would not have been tolerated

in mixed society in England. A part of the formality might perhaps have worn off on further acquaintance. The education, however, of women is not attended to, which of necessity curtailed the possibility of their entering into conversation upon many subjects, even if so to do was accounted proper. Still, the ladies of St. Louis cannot be said to be generally thus reserved, for gaming among both sexes is much practice and is carried to great excess. A young lady in one instance, when going out with her mother to some evening company, passed through the apartment in which her father was at play with several of his acquaintance. He spoke to his daughter and asked her to take a card, which she did. She went on play until she had lost 300 milhays,

about 80 pounds, and then said she had no more money. A fresh supply was afforded to her, and she accompanied her mother to their party, where most probably play was likewise the entertainment of the evening. Dancing is an amusement much too violent for the climate, and is only resorted to on some grand occasion. The love of gaming may be easily accounted for, where there is little or no taste for reading, and great sums of money are amassed without any means of expending them, living is cheap, a fine house, a carriage, and a number of servants may be had for a small sum. The opening of the trade has, however, given to these people a new turn of expenditure, and the facility of obtaining articles of dress and furniture.

Two English merchants only were established at St. Louis. The commercial transactions of British houses of trade were entrusted chiefly to Portuguese merchants of the place. Footnote. A British Council has since been appointed to Marignan. End footnote. Many of these were accustomed to little ceremony and walk the streets and short jackets, some of them without neckcloths and a few without stockings, but others dress according to the manner of persons in Europe, was with much difficulty that I could persuade the generality of those with whom I conversed, that I had no business to transact. They could not comprehend the motive by which a man could be actuated who was putting himself by traveling to certain inconveniences

for the sake of amusement. Indeed, many persons would not be convinced and thought that in so saying I had some sinister views. I had not many opportunities of gaining information respecting the interior, but I will mention what I heard. The banks of the river, Ita Piccaru, of which I have already spoken, though they are much cultivated compared to what they were a few years ago, are yet very wild, and there is space incalculable for a new colonists. The captaincy of Piaoui and the interior of the state of Marignan abound in cattle, and these parts of the country are not subject to droughts. The town of Aldeus Althas. Footnote. An Ovidor has been appointed to Aldeas Althes Althes.

and p aui has been raised to the rank of an independent provincial government these are improvements which show the regular government is gaining ground which is situated in the latter, and the city of Oeras and the former, and further inland, are said to be flourishing places. Great numbers of cattle are annually driven from these quarters of the Certown to Baya in Pernambuco. The proprietors of the estates which are situated in districts so far removed from the seat of government are at times unruly, and a party of soldiers which was sent up to arrest one of these men, sometime before I arrived at St. Louis, returned without affecting its purpose. Among other anecdotes I heard of a mulatto slave who ran away from his master,

and in the course of years had become a wealthy man by the purchase of lands which were overrun with cattle. He had, on one occasion, collected in pens great numbers of oxen which he was arranging with his herdsmen to dispatch to different parts for sale, when a stranger who came quite alone made his appearance and rode up, and spoke to him, saying that he wished to have some private conversation with him. After a little time they were retired together, and when they were alone, the owner of the estate said, I thank you for not mentioning the connection between us whilst my people were present. It was his master who had fallen into distressed circumstances, and had now made this visit in hopes of obtaining some trifle from him.

He said that he should be grateful for anything his slave chose to give him, to reclaim him, he well knew was out of the question, he was in the man's power, who might order him to be assassinated immediately. The slave gave his master several hundred oxen, and directed some of his men to accompany him with them to a market, giving out among his herdsmen, that he had thus paid a debt of old standing, for which he had only now been called upon. A man who could act in this manner well deserved the freedom which he had resolved to obtain. As it was my intention to past the ensuing summer in England, and no ships arrived from thence. I was afraid of being delayed some months for a conveyance. Therefore I thought it better to take my passage in one of the ships

which were about to sail. I preferred the Brutus, as I was intimate with the supercargo, a young Portuguese. We set sail from St. Louis on the 8th of April, in company of another British ship, but we were soon out of sight of each other, owing to one vessel holding a better wind. On the 18th we reached variable winds, and latitude 20 degrees north longitude, 50 degrees west. It is not usual to find them so far to the southward, therefore we might consider ourselves remarkably fortunate. We passed our time pleasantly, as the weather was fine, and the wind favorable. On the 7th of May the wind freshened, but we had a good ship in plenty of sea-room. A wave struck the stern and entered the cabin on the 8th and the 8th in the wind.

morning, setting everything afloat. This occurred soon after we had risen. On the ninth we discovered two vessels at a great distance ahead, and rather to windward, both of them were laying two, but soon each appeared to stand on different tacks. One proved to be an English brig loaded with timber. She was waterlogged and about to sink, and the latter was an American ship which had lain two, and was in the act of assisting the people and leaving her. If the brig had not been loaded with timber, she must have gone down long before. As the American ship was bound to her own country, we took the crew on board the Brutus, nine persons.

They were in most woeful plight, some lay mothers nearly naked, and all of them half-starved with cold and hunger. The vessel had sprung a leak, which increased so rapidly, is to oblige them to retreat from the deck into the foretop, where they had been for three days and two nights, almost destitute of provisions. We arrive safe off Falmouth on the 20th of May. Here the supercargo and myself landed and proceeded to London. And of section 13. Section 14 of Travels in Brazil, Volume 1 by Henry Costa. This Lieperbox recording is in the public domain. Chapter 10, Part 1

The author set sail from Gravesend. and arrives at Pernambuco, state of Hesife, journey to Bome Jardin with a Capitan Moor, and return to Hesifé. At the commencement of the winter, my friends again recommended a return to a more temperate climate than that of England, and therefore understanding that the Portuguese ship, the Serra Pekeno, was upon the point of sailing, I took my passage in her. She was lying at Gravesend, and on the 4th of October 1811, I embarked again for Pernambuco. Contrary winds detained the ship at Portsmouth for about six weeks. On the 20th of November, the wind came round to the northward and eastward,

and the signal guns from the ships of war, appointed as convoys awakened us, always bustle and confusion at cows. Were great numbers of persons belonging to the ships, who were circumstanced as we were, had stationed themselves. In a few hours the vessels were underway, and before the night closed in, all of them had cleared the needles. The Serapikano and other Portuguese ships had taken instructions from a frigate, which was bound to the Mediterranean, intending to keep company with her as far as her destination, and theirs obliged them to follow the same course. But in the morning we discovered that we were with another frigate, which was bound to Lisbon. We soon left her,

and were accompanied by other two Portuguese ships. On the night of the 22nd, we fell in with the kangaroo sloop of war, which was bound to the coast of Africa, with a few vessels under convoy. On the 24th, we parted from this convoy, and on the 26th proceeded with only one Portuguese ship. Our passage was most prosperous. We had no boisterous weather and few calms. On the 3rd of December we fell in with the Arethusa frigate when inside of the Canary Islands. The captain of the Seja was obliged to take the papers of his ship on board the frigate. The regulations regarding the slave trade, which is carried on by the Portuguese, perhaps occasion more inquiry than would have otherwise been deemed necessary.

We crossed the line on the 22nd. In the evening of the 26th we stood for the land, supposing that we had reached the latitude of our port, but that we were very much to the eastward of it. However, we made the land about two o'clock in the morning, which was sooner by several hours than the officers of the ship imagined we should. This frequently occurs on board of those vessels which do not carry chronometers. The calculation of longitude, without their assistance,

being, of course, rendered extremely liable to error. At daybreak it was discovered that we were somewhat to the northward of Olinda. We entered the port about nine o'clock, and came to anchor in the lower harbor called the Poso. The Seja Piquino is one of the heavy, deep-waisted Brazil ships, requiring a great number of hands to manage her. The business of the ship was carried on in a manner similar in almost all points to that which is practiced on board of British merchant vessels. There was, however, less cleanliness observed and more noise was made. The second officer who was called in the British Merchant Service the mate, bears in Portuguese vessels the name of pilot, and the regulations of their marine confine him to the navigation

of the ship, giving up to an inferior officer the duty of attending to the discharging or stoich of the hold when loading or unloading, and all other minutiae of the affairs either at sea or in a harbor. I was received unsure by all those persons with whom I had before had the pleasure of being acquainted, with the same friendliness which I always experienced at Pernambuco. Several English gentlemen offered me an apartment in their houses until I obtained one of my own. I accepted the offer which was made to me by him through whose great kindness my health had been so much benefited after the severe attack of fever which I had suffered in the preceding year. The first few weeks were passed in visits to my friends and acquaintance,

with some of whom I occasionally stayed a few days in the neighborhood of the town, which was now much deserted, according to the usual custom, at this season of the year. I perceived a considerable difference in the appearance of Hesifian of its same, inhabitants, although I had been absent from the place for so short a time. Several houses had been altered. The heavy somber latticework had given place in many instances to glass windows and iron balconies. Some few families had arrived here from Lisbon and three from England. The ladies of the former had shown the example of walking to mass in broad daylight, and those of the latter were in the habit of going out to walk toward the close of the day for amusement. These improvements being once

introduced and practiced by a few persons were soon adopted by some who had been afraid to be the first, and others who found that they were pleasant. Formal silks and satins, too, were becoming a less usual dress on high days and holidays, and were now much superseded by white and colored muslins and other cotton manufacturers. The men likewise, who had in in former times, daily appeared in full-dressed suits of black, gold buckles, and cocked hats, had now, in many instances, exchanged these for Nanking pantaloons, half-boots, and round hats. Even the high and heavy saddle was now less in use, and that a more modern form was all the fashion. The sedan chairs in which the ladies often go to church, and to pay visits to their friends,

had now put on a much smarter appearance. and the men who carried them were dressed more dashingly. These cannot fail to attract the attention of strangers in their gay clothes, their helmets and feathers, and their nanked legs. The country residences which had been lately built were also numerous. Lands in the vicinity of Hesipi had risen in price. The trade of brick-making was becoming lucrative. Work people were in request, and beside many other spots of land, the track between the village of Poso da Panella and Montero, in extent about one mile, which in 1810 was covered with brushwood,

had now been cleared. Houses were building and gardens forming upon it. The great church of Corpus Santo, situated in that part of the town, which is properly called Hesifi, was now finished and various improvements were meditated. Footnote. Before I came away in 1815, A considerable portion of the sand, which was covered by the tide at high water, between St. Antonio and Boa Vista, had been raised, and houses had been built upon it. The principal street of St. Antonio has been paved. The bridge of Boa Vista has been rebuilt of timber, and that between St. Antonio and Hesifi was about to undergo considerable repair. The hospitals likewise were to be improved, and as I have heard since my arrival in England of the appointment of a most worthy man to the direction of one of them, a trust that

this intention has been acted upon. End footnote. The time of advancement was come, and men who had for many years gone on without making any change either in the interior or exterior of their houses, were now painting and glazing on the outside, and new furnishing within, modernizing themselves, their families, and their dwellings. The spirit of alteration, the spirit of alteration. produced in one case rather ludicrous consequences. There was a lady of considerable dimensions who had entered into this love of innovation, and carried it to a vast extent. She was almost equal in circumference and height, but notwithstanding this unfortunate circumstance, personal embellishments were not to be despised. She wished to dress in English fashion, and was herself decidedly

of opinion that she had succeeded. Upon her head she wore her head. She wore a a very small gypsy hat tied under the chin. Stays have only lately been introduced, but this improvement she had not yet adopted. Still, her gown was to be in English fashion, too, and therefore was cut and slashed away, so as to leave most unmercifully in view several beauties which otherwise would have remained concealed. This gown was of muslin, and was worked down the middle and round the bottom, in several colors. Her shoes were as small as could be allowed, but the unfortunate redundance of size also reached the ankles and the feet, and thus rendering compression necessary. The superabundance, which nature had lavishly bestowed, projected and hung down

over each side of the shoes. I became acquainted and somewhat intimate with the Capitamore of a neighboring district from frequently meeting him in my evening visits to a Brazil. family. He was about to make the circuit of his district, in the course of a few weeks, and invited one of my friends and myself to accompany him in this review or visit to his officers, to which we readily agreed, was arranged that he should make us acquainted in due time with the day which he might appoint for setting out, that we might meet him at his sugar plantation, from whence we were to proceed with him and his suite further into the country. The Capitán Morges, captains major, are officers of considerable power.

They have civil as well as military duties to perform, and ought to be appointed from among the planters of most wealth and individual weight in the several thermos, boundaries or districts. But the interest of family or of relations about the court have occasioned deviations from this rule, and persons very unfit for these situations have been sometimes, times nominated to them. The whole aspect of the government in Brazil is military. All men between the ages of 16 and 60 must be enrolled either as soldiers of the line, as militiamen, or as belonging to the body of Ordinansas. Of the regular soldiers, I have already spoken in another place. Of the second class, each township has a regiment, of which the individuals, with the exception of the major and

adjutant, and in some cases the colonel, do not receive any pay. But they are considered as embodied men, and as such are called out upon some few occasions in the course of the year to assemble in uniform and otherwise accoutred. The expense which must be incurred in this respect of necessity precludes the possibility of many persons becoming members of this class, even if the government were desirous of increasing the number of militia regiments. The soldiers of these are subject to their captains, to the colonel, and to the governor of the province. The colonels are either rich planters, or the major or lieutenant colonel of a regiment of the line is thus promoted to the command of one of these, in this case, and in this case only,

he receives pay. I'm inclined to think that he ought to possess some property in the district, and that any deviation from this rule is an abuse. but I am not certain that the law so ordains. The majors and the adjutants are likewise occasionally promoted from the line, but whether they are regularly military men or planters, they receive pay, as their trouble and distributing orders and other arrangements connected with the regiment is considerable. The third class that of the ordnansas consisting of by far the largest portion of the white persons, and of free mulatto men of all shape, have for their immediate chiefs the Capitans Morres, who serve without pay, and all the persons

who are connected with the ordinances are otherwise likewise to afford their services gratuitously. Each district contains one Capitaine Moore, who is invariably a person possessing property in the part of the country to which he is appointed. He is assisted by a major, captains, and alfares, who are lieutenants or insinence, and by sergeants and corporals. The duties of the Capitamor are to see that every individual under his command has in his possession some species of arms, either a firelock, a sword, or a pike. He distributes the governor's orders through his district and can oblige any of his men to take these orders to the nearest captain, who sends another peasant forwards to the next captain and so forth.

All which is done without pay. A Capitamore can also impresses. prison for 24 hours, and send under arrest for trial a person who is accused of having committed any crime, to the civil magistrate of the town to which his district is immediately attached. Now, the abuses of this office of Capitamor are very many, and the lower orders of free persons are much oppressed by these great men, and by their subalterns, down to the corporals. The peasants are often sent upon errands which have no relation to public business. For leagues and leagues these poor fellows are made to travel, for the purpose of carrying some private letter of their chief or his captains or of his lieutenants without any remuneration.

Indeed, many of these men in place seldom think of employing their slaves on these occasions, or repaying the free person so employed. This I have witnessed times out of number, and I've heard the peasants in all parts of the country complain. It is most heavy grievance. Nothing so much vexes a peasant as the consciousness of losing his time and trouble in a service which is not required by his sovereign. Persons are sometimes confined in the stocks for days together on some trifling plea, and are at last release without being sent to the civil magistrate or even admitted to a hearing. However, I am happy to say that I am acquainted with some men whose conduct is widely different from what I have above stated, but the power given to an individual is too great, and the probability of being called to an account

for its abuse too remote to ensure the exercise of it in a proper manner. The free mulattoes and free negroes whose names are upon the rolls, either of the militia regiments which are commanded by white officers or by those of their own class and color, are not, properly speaking, subject to the Capitam Morres. These officers and the colonels of militia are, appointed by the Supreme Government, and the subaltern officers are nominated by the governor of each province. The above explanation of the state of internal government I thought necessary that the reader might understand the grounds upon which I was about to undertake the journey,

of which some account will immediately be given. On the 28th of January, 1812, the Capitam Moore sent one of his servants to summon us to his plantation and to be our guide. Early on the morning following, my friend, myself, our own two servants, and the boy who had been sent to us by the Capitam Moore, set out on horseback and high spirits, my friend and I expecting to see something new and strange. I had before, as has already been related, traveled into the less populous parts of the country, but I had had very little communication with the planters. On that occasion I proceeded too rapidly to obtain as much knowledge of their manners in customs as I wished. We proceeded to Olinda and pass through its wretchedly paved streets with much care, and when we were descending the hill upon which it stands on the land side, there was laid open to us a considerable extent of marshy ground,

which was partly covered with Mangioch, planted upon raised beds or hillocks, which were made of a circular form that the water might not reach the roots of the plants. The remainder of the land was still undrained and unproductive. The darkness of the green of the plants which grow upon marshy ground immediately points out the lands that are in the state. The country which was to be seen in the distance was covered with wood. We crossed a rivulet communicating with the marshy land on each side of the road and passed on over some rising ground by several scouts,

scattered cottages until we reached, distant from Olinda, one league, the lowlands surrounding the hill which forms the site of the sugar plantation of Fragoso. From hence the lands are low and damp, almost without any rising ground, to the sugar plantation of Paulistas. The beautiful spots upon this tract of land are numerous. Cottages are oftentimes to be met with, half concealed among the trees and brushwood. They are built of mud and are covered with the leaves of cocoa trees. They have usually a projecting penthouse with a small area in front, which is clear of weeds. Under this penthouse is slung the hammock with its dark-colored owner, idly swinging backwards and forwards, who raises his head as he hears the horse's footsteps. The dog is basking in the sun,

or lying under the shade, or running out to annoy the traveler, and the fishing baskets and the towards hang as chance directs them upon the protruding items of the coquolies which cover the lowly hut. Sometimes the sight of these rude dwellings is enlivened by the figure of a female, who runs off and conceals herself, as the passenger upon the road looks down the narrow path which leads to the cottage. The road itself was likewise narrow, for this was not the great cattle track, and all view of the country was generally shut out by the wood on each side against one. which the legs of the horsemen are often brushing, and into which he is obliged to force his horse, if he should chance to meet a carrier, with his panneers or his cotton bags on either side of his

beast, or one of the carts which are employed upon the plantations. The mammoero produces its fruit upon the stem. The fruit is large, and the pulp of it is soft, having much resemblance in consistence and entaste to a melon that is too ripe. The appearance of the fruit has some similarity likewise to a small round melon. To those who are unaccustomed to a country that is literally covered with woods which prevent an extensive view of the surrounding objects and the free circulation of air, the delightful sensations which are produced by a fine green field opening all at once to the site and swept by a refreshing breeze cannot possibly be felt. The plantation of Paulistas is so situated. The buildings were numerous, but most of them were low,

and somewhat out of repair. These are the dwelling-house of the owner, which is spacious, and has one story above the ground floor. The chapel, with its large wooden cross, erected upon the center of the gable end, the mill and square building without walls, its roof being supported upon brick pillars, the long row of Negro huts, the steward's residence, and several others of minor importance. These edifices are all of them scattered upon a large field, which is occupied by a considerable number of tame cattle. This is skirted by a dike which runs in front,

but somewhat at a distance from the dwelling house of the owner, and through it runs the water which turns the mill. On the opposite side of the field is the chaplain's cottage, with its adjoining lesser row of Negro huts, its plantain garden, and its widespreading mango trees behind it. Beyond the principal house are low and extensive cane and meadowlands which are skirted on one side by the buildings of another small plantation and bordered at a great distance by woods which are situated upon the sides and summit of rising ground. This valuable and beautiful plantation was in the possession of a

near relation of our Capitamore. We were acquainted with the son of the only, who was chaplain to the estate, and had invited us to make his residence our resting place. This we did. He was prepared to receive us, and after having breakfasted it, we proceeded to pay a visit to the old gentleman at the great house, as the dwellings of the owners of plantations are called. He was unwell and could not be seen, but we were received by his wife and two daughters. They made many inquiries about England and conversed upon other subjects which they supposed we might be acquainted with. This estate was not much work.

The slaves led a most easy life, and the great house was full of young children. Of these urchins, several came in and out of the room. They were quite naked and played with each other, and with some large dogs which were lying at full length upon the floor. These Ebon Cupid's were plainly great favorites, and seemed to employ the greater part of the thoughts of the good ladies, the youngest of whom was on the wrong side of fifty,

and even the priests laughed at their gambols. These excellent women and the good priest possess a considerable number of slaves who are their exclusive property. It is their intention eventually to emancipate all of them and that they may be prepared for the change. Several of the men have been brought up as mechanics of different descriptions

and the women have been taught needlework, embroidery, and all branches of culinary knowledge. Thus by the death of four individuals, who are now approaching to old age, will be set free about sixty persons, men, women, and children. As these people have been made acquainted with the intentions of their owners,

respecting them, it is not surprising that the behavior of many of them should be overbearing. To some, the deeds of manumission have been already passed conditionally, obliging them to serve as slaves until the death of the individual to whom they are subject.

These papers cannot be revoked, and yet no ingratitude was apprehended. But among so considerable a number of persons, some instances of it cannot, I fear, fail to be experienced. The owners said that all their immediate relations are rich, and not all in need of assistance, and that, therefore, independent of other reasons, connected generally with a system of slavery,

these their children had no right to work for anyone else. Of the slaves in question, only a few are Africans, the major part being mulattoes and creole negroes. We returned to the cottage of the priest to dinner, and in the afternoon proceeded to the sugar plantation of Agiar, belonging to the Capita Moore, which is distant from Paulistas five leagues, where we arrived about ten o'clock at night, much fatigued.

Immediately beyond Paulistas is the narrow rapid stream of Paratibi, which, near to its mouth, changes this name for that of in the rainy season it overflows its banks and becomes unfortable. The width of it, when it is in the usual state, near to Paulistas, is not above 20 yards. In its course to the sea, it runs through much marshy ground. We passed by four sugar meals this afternoon. That which bears the name of Uttringa Gibecio is situated in an amphitheater, being surrounded by high hills, covered with large trees. These woods have not been much disturbed,

and therefore give refuge to enormous quantities of game, among which the pork-do-dlmato or pig of the woods is common. I never saw this animal, and therefore cannot pretend to describe it, but I have often heard it spoken of as being extremely destructive to Mangiak, and its flesh is good. This animal is not large, and is not unlike the common hog. Footnote Bowlingbroke says that instances are frequent

of some of the European swine escaping into the woods, where they live wild, and he adds that their increase has been immense. In another place he speaks of a species of this animal, which is peculiar to tropical America, and is called the Wari, which he says is about the size of an European hog, much like it in shape.

The porco domato is not the soullus, Tajasu, which is, I imagine, what Bolingbroke calls the Pickery Hog. Voyage to the Demerry, etc. by Henry Bolingbroke in Phillips' collection of modern voyages, volume 10, page 57 and 129. The Tajaku is to be met with at Marignan, but is not known at Pernibuco. End footnote. Many criminals and runaway negroes are harbored in these woods. The inhabitants of Otinga seemed to be shut out from all the rest of the world,

as the path which leads from it is not immediately distinguishable. The last three leagues which we traversed in the dark were covered with almost unbroken woods. The path through them is narrow, and the branches of the trees cross it in all directions. Our guide rode in front, and many times did his head come in contact with them. The dwelling of the Capitamore is a large building of one store, above the ground floor, the lower part of which forms the warehouse for the sugar and other articles which the estate produces. We ascended a wooden staircase erected on the outside of the building, entered a small antechamber, and were received by our host and one of his sons, who conducted

us into a spacious apartment beyond. A long table in one of rather less dimensions, a couple of benches, and a few broken and unpainted chairs formed the whole furniture of these rooms. Four or five black boys, who were of a size too far advanced to wear the bow and arrow, but who were quite as little encumbered with dress as they still might wield these dangerous weapons, in the character of Cupid's, stood all astonishment to view the strange being that had just arrived, and at all the doors were woman's heads peeping to see whom we might be. The supper consisted, as is usual, a great quantities of meat placed upon the table without arrangement. At five o'clock in the morning, the Capitamore,

my friend, myself, and three servants, proceeded to the distance of three leagues without any addition to our party. But we were soon joined by the adjutant of the district and several other officers, in uniforms of dark blue with yellow facings, most monstrously broad, the gay cuffs reaching halfway up to the elbow. They wore round hats with short feathers, straight swords of most prodigious length and very loose nankan pantaloons and boots. The former were thrust within the latter, which caused the higher part of the pantaloons to appear to be a preposterous width. We dismounted at a sugar plantation, being the third we had passed through this morning. Here we were invited to stay to breakfast, for this we could not do, and were therefore

regaled with pineapples and oranges. The owner of this place had taken great pains with his garden, and had reared several fruits which require much care. But it is strange that, although there are many which may be raised with very little trouble, still upon far the greater number of plantations, even oranges are not to be found. The ant is, I well know, a great persecutor of this tree, but when care is taken in this respect and a little water is afforded during the dry months for two or three years, none else is necessary. Upon the same plantation have been practiced the most monstrous cruelties. The conduct of the owner towards his slaves is often spoken of with abhorrence,

but yet he is visited and treat it with the same respect which is paid to an individual of unblemished character. It is, however, almost the only instance of which I heard of systematic continued want an enormity, but it has here occurred and has passed unpunished, and this one is sufficient, even if none other existed, to stamp the slave system as an abomination which ought to be rooted out. The estate was inherited by the person in question with sixty good slaves upon it. Fifteen years had elapsed since this time to the period of which I speak, and there were then remaining only four or five individuals who were able to work. Some have fled and have escaped,

Others have died, God knows how, and others again have committed suicide inside of their master's residence. We arrived at midday at Santa Cruz and had now reached the cotton country. The tract through which we had passed was, for the most part, well watered and well wooded. The marshy lands being less frequently and dispersed then upon the journey of the preceding day. The sugar plantations were numerous. We saw eight of them this morning. The ground was often uneven, and we crossed one rather steep hill. The lands upon which we had now arrived, and those to which we were advancing, are altogether higher, and the grass upon them was now much burnt up, the first waters not having yet fallen.

The soil in these parts retains less moisture than that of the country which we had left, and soon becomes too hard to be worked. The party was now much increased, and in the afternoon we proceeded to, Pindoba, a cotton plantation of considerable extent. The owner of it is wealthy and possesses many slaves. He received us in his dressing gown, under which he wore a shirt, drawers, and a pair of stockings. After the first greetings were over, he brought out a small bottle of liqueur made in the country, to which he himself helped his guests, one solitary glass which was filled, and then emptied by each person, being made use of by the whole party. After supper, a guitar player belonging to the house

entertained us until a late hour, whilst our host sat upon a table smoking from a pipe full six feet in length. Several hammocks were slung in two large apartments, and each person either talked or went to sleep, or occasionally did one and the other, no form of ceremony being observed. The peasants began to assemble early on the following morning, as three companies of the ordnansas were to be reviewed. These were the first which were to undergo inspection, as the Capitam Moore proposed visiting again the places through which we had passed on his return, and intended then to perform this duty. The men wore their usual dress of shirt and drawers, and perhaps a Nanking jacket and pantaloons were added, and most of them had muskets.

The Capitamore came forth this day in his scarlet uniform and sat himself down, near to a table. The captain of the company, which was about to be reviewed, stood near to him with a muster-old. The names of the privates were called over by the captain, and as each name was repeated by the sergeant, who stood at the doorway, the individual to whom it belonged, came in and presented arms to the Capitamor, then turned about and retired. It was truly ridiculous, but at the same time painful, to see the fright which the countenances of some of the poor fellows expressed, and their excess of awkwardness when they came to present themselves, whilst others displayed evident self-sufficiency. These were well-dressed and performed every maneuver with as much

neatness and promptitude as they were capable of, expressive of superior knowledge, and in hopes of admiration. There were, of course, many absentees, and for the non-appearance of these some reason was given by one of the officers of the company to which the man belonged, or by a neighbor. The excuses were usually received as sufficient, without any further inquiry being made. However, the absence of one of the captains was not thus quietly acquiesced in, and therefore an officer was dispatched to his house to bring him to Pandova under an arrest. Whether this proceeded from some private peak or some zeal for the public service, I do not pretend to determine, but he soon arrived in custody.

He was put into one of the apartments of the house which we were inhabiting, and a sergeant was stationed at the door as a sentinel. The Capitam Moore soon, however, relented, upon which he was released and allowed to return home. At dinner the great man took the head of the table, and the owner of the house stood by and waited upon him. Everything was served up in enormous quantities, for the party was large, and this is the custom. There was no sort of regularity observed, Every man helped himself to the dish which pleased him best, and this was oftentimes done with a knife which the person had been making use of upon his own plate, and by reaching across two or three of his neighbors for the purpose. A nice bit was not safe even upon one's own plate, being occasionally snatched up, and another less dainty given in return. Much wine was drank during dinner, and the glasses were used in common.

We soon rose from table, and the party, generally speaking, took the accustomed sesto or nap after dinner which is usual in warm climates. My friend and I walked out in the afternoon, but there was nothing to tempt us to go far, for the neighborhood possessed no natural beauty, and the dry weather had burnt up the grass and had made the face of the country extremely dreary. Early on the morrow, about 40 persons sallied forth from the village of Beaumt Jardin. It is distant from Pindoba, one league and a half. We arrive there at 7 o'clock. This village is built in the form of a square.

The houses are low, but the church is large and handsome. Like the huts of Asu and of some other places, those of Bonn Jardim are not whitewashed, and therefore the mud of which they are composed remains in its original color. The place contains about 500 inhabitants. We ascended a steep hill to arrive at it, and on the opposite side still another of equal height is to be surmounted in proceeding farther inland. The village is situated upon a break of the hill. The soil is chiefly composed of red earth, approaching in places to a bright scarlet, with veins of yellow running through it. This is the description of soil, which is said to be the best adapted to the growth of cotton.

Bump Jardim is a great rendezvous for the hawkers who are proceeding to the Sertown and for others who merely advanced thus far. It is distant from Hesifi 20 good leagues in a northeast direction. End of Section 14 Section 15 of Travels in Brazil, Volume 1 by Henry Koster. This Libre Vox recording is in the public domain. Chapter 10, Part 2 My friend and I walked out and descend it the hill by a path which led us to the bed of the river, for there was now no water in it.

Great want of water is often experienced at Bomme Gardein, but I think that if wells of sufficient depth were dug, a supply might be obtained. Footnote. Directions were given by the Capitan Moore that a reservoir for rainwater should be formed, and these have been carried into effect. 1815. End footnote. On our return to the village, we discovered that Mass was about to be said, and therefore we accompanied some of our party to the church. It was crowded. Indeed, it is a remark which I was frequently led to make that on Sundays and holidays when the peasantry assemble at the church doors,

their numbers must astonish those persons who merely pass through the country, without opportunities being afforded to them of a more minute examination. The cottages upon the roadside do not promise so numerous a population as is on these occasions to be seen. But from the thickness of the woods and the lowness of the huts, even when a view of the country is by any accident to be obtained from a high hill, the dwellings of the lower orders of people are not to be perceived. They are scattered all over the country, and narrow paths which appear impassable or nearly so,

and are scarcely to be observed, often lead to four or five huts, situated in the center of a wood or upon some low ground, adapted to the cultivation of Mangiak and maize. One company was reviewed at Bon Gardein, and from hence a captain was deputed to continue the review further into the country. We rode this afternoon one lead to the house of Captain Anselmo, being so far upon our return. On our way to this place, we saw the woods on one side of the road on fire. In the dry season, the grass and brushwood become so completely parched that the leaf spark sets a whole tract of country in a blaze.

I mean that the fire will sometimes run on for a league and even more, will occasionally blaze forth most violently, and catching the branches of the large trees, the flames will, at intervals, flash above the summit, will then subside, but continues smothered in the hollow of some aged tree, and in a heap of leaves which still retain some moisture, but a breath of air spreads it abroad, and it again runs on with violence.

The peasants almost invariably smoke as they go along, and oftentimes they ask for a lighted piece of wood at a cottage, which they may chance to pass. It is astonishing to see with what unconcern they will hurl this from them, still unexinguished, knowing as they do full well the consequences which frequently have ensued. The act of setting fire to a wood is subject to punishment by law, if intention, or even carelessness can be proved. The crop of canes, as some estates, have in many instances been injured by these means. Captain Anselamo resides upon a cotton plantation, which is his own property, and is cultivated by about 40 Negroes. The house is situated upon the shelf of a steep hill, with a beautiful plain below, upon which trees are

thickly scattered. At the foot of the hill is a large fish pond, through which a rivulet runs in the rainy season. The owner has lately enclosed a piece of land, and was making a garden upon the borders of the pond. The dwelling-house was new, and had a second floor. It was very clean and well furnished. This was the most pleasantly situated in the best-arranged mansion, which we visited during this journey. The huts for the slaves were well built and looked comfortable. Here we are entertained with such music as has as yet found its way into these parts of the country. Three Negroes with bagpipes attempted to play a few tunes whilst we're at dinner, but they seemed to play in different keys from each other, and sometimes each appeared to

have struck up a tune of his own composing. I think I never heard so bad an attempt at producing harmonious sounds as the Isharamaleiros made. The possession of a band of these bespeaks a certain degree of superiority. Consequently, the planters pride themselves upon their musicians. Our party could not let pass this opportunity of beginning together without practicing the amusement of the intrudo. Footnote. The Monday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday are properly the days of the intruder, but the sport is, as in the case in question, often commenced a week before the appointed time. Water and hair powder are the ingredients which are established to be hurled at each other, but frequently no medium is preserved, and everything is taken up heedlessly

and thrown about by all parties, whether it be clean or dirty, whether it may do mischief or is harmless, and footnote. Although the usual time of its celebration was yet distant one week. On the day subsequent to that of our arrival, dinner was scarcely over before the farina, the bananas, the rice, and other dainties upon the table were hurled at each other's heads. soon the smart uniform coats were taken off and in his shirt-sleeves each man began the civil war with heart and soul everything was born with perfect good-humor and at last fatigued and bedawbed all of us retired to the hammocks which had been provided for the party But as our evil stars would have it, a brave captain closed quietly all the shutters, as the moon was shining very bright in the room, and then he placed himself near to an enormous jar of water, which stood in one corner of the apartment, and with a small pitcher in his hand soon

dealt around him its contents, awakening us with repeated showers and obliging us to take shelter under the chairs and tables. This and other jokes allied to it continued until the break of day, when we prepared for a continuation of our journey. One company was reviewed here. We proceeded to the house of Captain Paolo Travasso, distant one Lee. As was our usual custom, my friend and I walked out soon after our arrival, and in returning, instead of pursuing the path, which was rather circuitous, we attempted to climb up a bank, that we might the sooner reach the house.

My friend was before me, and as he scrambled up to, to it, his foot slipped, which caused him to catch at the stump of a small plant that grew upon the side of the bank. He gave up his idea of going by that way to the house, and returned to me, bringing with him the plant, with its root and the earth about it. I'm going to throw it away, he perceived upon his hand the glitter of a substance which made us return to the spot. We gathered some more of the earth, and this gentleman, who had long resided upon the coast of Africa, judged the substance which was mixed with it to be gold dust. At this place the intrudo was continued more violently than before, for even the blackened pots

and pans from the kitchen were introduced to besmear each other's faces. We obtained here a view of the females belonging to the house, but everywhere else they had been too rigorously gauded or were naturally too reserved to enable us to see them. Some excuse was made by the young men who were acquainted with a family to draw them into sport, and the ladies and their slaves were nothing loath to see and to participate in what was going forwards. A circumstance occurred which created much laughter, which is but too characteristic. One man whom we met in this place had all along begged of those who were engaged in the sport that they would not wet him, because he was unwell. However, it was seen that he did not observe

towards others the forbearance which he entreated from them toward himself. One of the parties, seeing this, attacked him with a large silver ladle filled with water. The man ran out of the house, and the other followed. But when they were at some distance from it, he turned upon his pursuer, and drawing his knife, stood at some distance, threatening to stab him if he advanced. The other, striking his left side at the place in which knives are usually carried, likewise threatened him, and without delay advanced toward him, having picked up a thick stick as he approached. But his adversary did not like the thoughts of a close combat, and soon set off at full speed,

with his knife in his hand. In this manner he entered the back door of the house, whilst he of the silver ladle took the front door. They met in the apartment from which they had started, when the latter opened his waistcoat, and showed that he had not a knife, thus proving before the whole party, that he with a knife had run away from one who was unarmed. This was quite sufficient. The women made a general attack upon him. He went to the stable, mounted his horse, and set forth. But his misfortunes had not yet ended,

for the path by which he must retreat lay under two of the windows of the house, and as he passed, two large tubs of water drenched him and his steed, which immediately quickened its pace amidst the hooting of everyone present. We continued our journey in the afternoon to a sugar plantation, the property of Captain Joan Suarez, where we remained until the following day. Some of us were tired of the intruder, and therefore sought shelter in the mill and adjoining outhouses when we saw the sport again commencing. But we were about to be attacked when we gained the roofs of one of the buildings, and from hence could not be dislodged. I had frequently seen the Saboera, or

soap tree, which is to be chiefly found in these districts. It is a large shrub which puts forth numerous branches in every direction, so that when it is in full leaf, it has somewhat the appearance of trees that have been clipped, as was formerly practiced in gardens, which is increased by the leaves being small and growing very close to each other. The receptacle of the seed is about the size of a small plum. When this is put into water and rubbed with some violence, it produces the same effect as that which is caused by soap and water, and it has the same property of cleansing. The Pao do alio, or garlic tree, is to be met with in great abundance in these districts. The name is derived from the similitude of the smell of the leaves and the wood of this plant to

garlic. The tree abound so greatly, and I suppose reminded the first settlers so much of one of their favorite European culinary ingredients that it has given name to a town and to a whole district. About five o'clock in the afternoon, we proceeded to Limoero, a large and thriving village. Footnote. Limoero was raised to a township by an Alavara issued from Rio de Janeiro on the 27th of July 1811, but this was not then known. It has now a mayor, municipality, and Capitamore. End footnote. It is composed of one street of about three quarters of a mile in length. which is closed at one end by the church in vicarage. This building belonged formally to the Jesuits.

The trade of Limoero with the interior is considerable, and particularly on the day of the market, which is held weakly. The bustle is excessive. These days seldom pass without some murders being committed, or at least many wounds and blows being given. But the markets of Nazareth, or Lagoadanta, are those which are particularly famed for the disturbances that usually take place there.

These became so considerable at one time that the governor found it necessary to issue orders for a patrol to keep the peace on market days. The Moero contains about 600 inhabitants and is increasing daily. It stands upon the banks of the river Kappa Paribbe, which was at this time quite dry.

The distance from Hesifi is 14 good leagues. We're entertained by the vicar, who has taken very little pains to have a decent residence, and cannot fail to be somewhat indifferent about his own life. For every step to which we advanced as we ascend it to the apartments above promised to be the last that would hold us. The floors of the rooms into which we were ushered seemed to be laid out as traps to ensnare those who might not tread cautiously.

Some of the boards were broken, and large holes remained. Others were loose, and it was dangerous to pass over them. and besides the several perils of this mansion, substances which are not pleasant to the nose might unwarily be trampled upon. Never did I see so miserable a dwelling, whose inhabitant might with so much case have bettered the state in which we found it. However, I ought not to complain, for to counterbalance all this we had a teapot, sugar-basin, and other parts of the equipage of silver.

The Capitam Moore had still several posts to visit, which would delay him, for a considerable time. Therefore, as my friend was anxious to return to Hesife, we left our party, with much regret, and were accompanied in the morning by the adjutant, who was about to return home. I'd been greatly amused and wished to have seen the conclusion of the affair. At Limoero, several companies were to be reviewed, and from thence the Capitamor proceeded to Pal doalio. Footnote This place was erected a township by the same Alvara, which was issued respecting Limouero, and by the same the village of Cape St. Augustine and of St. Antom, were likewise raised to the rank of

towns, a sure sign of the increase of population. And footnote. And Nazareth, or Lagoa danta. Footnote. This village is as much or more generally known by the name of Lagoa danta than the by that of Nazareth, but the latter is the name which it bears in law. The former name, which means the lake of the Anta, seems to denote that the animal was known in this part of the country, but in the present day I could not meet with any of the peasants who knew what the word

anthe was intended to signify. Close footnote. Two large villages of considerable importance. Both of them are within a few leagues of the place at which we separated from our companions. We returned to Santa Cruz, passed through that village, and were entertained at the house of the Agitin. We reached Agiar in the afternoon, being received at that place by one of the Capitamore's sons, a young man of 18 years of age, and we also saw the Capitam Moore's interesting wife, who is likewise his niece. She was about 15 years of age, he being about 46.

We slept there and stopped at Palistas on the following day at noon, for once we perceived proceeded to Hesife on the evening of the 6th of February. I heard one of the sugar planters bitterly complaining of his poverty, and that his want of hands to work his mill, obliged him to give up the cultivation of much of the best land of his estate. Soon after he had uttered these complaints, the conversation turned upon saddle-horses in their trappings, and he then told us that he had lately purchased a new saddle and bridle, which he wished us to see. These new trappings were much of the same. These new trappings were Most superb affairs, the saddle was made of Morocco leather and green velvet, and silver-headed

nails, and plates of the same metal were profusely scattered and placed upon all parts of this and of the bridle. He told us that the whole had cost him four hundred mile haze, about 110 pounds. This sum of money would have purchased four slaves, but the matter did not end here, for he opened a drawer in which were strewed several broken silver spoons, spurs, etc., and he said that he was collecting a sufficient quantity of this metal for the purpose of having his groom's horse ornamented in the same manner as his own. The free persons of color who inhabit the tract of country through which we passed are more numerous than I had previously imagined. The companies of Ordinansas vary much in strength, some consist of 150 men and more,

and others of not above 50, the peasantry of the matthes, that is, of the country which lies between the plentiful well-watered districts of the coast and the sertoines have not a general good character. The miserable life which they, oftener than others, are obliged to lead, from the want of water and of provisions, seems to have an unfavorable effect upon them. They are represented as being more vindictive and more quarrelsome and less hospitable than their neighbors. To say that a man is a matto-tomata, a woodman of the wood, no recommendation to him. During this journey I heard the following story, and as I was acquainted with a person to whom the circumstances occurred, I can vouch for its veracity. A Brazilian who had been

wealthy, but who had through many imprudencies, and from many deeds which deserve a much severe name, reduced himself to a state of comparative poverty, resided in this part of the country at the time I traveled through it. He was a man of loose moral. and savage disposition, but of most pleasant manners. He had in one particular instance, which preeminently stamped his character, behaved in a most shameful manner to a lady to whom he professed himself to be attached. He had possessed many slaves, but at the time the following occurrence took place, three or four only remained, and of these one alone was in health. Apprehensive of being assassinated by some of the persons whom he had injured and insulted,

he usually kept the doors and windows of his residence well secured, accepting one entrance, which was likewise closed at dusk. One evening three men knocked at the door, and asked leave to pass the night in some of the outhouses of the plantation. The owner answered from within, but did not open the door, saying that they might sleep in the mill. About an hour afterwards there was another knock, and a person requested that some fruit might be sold to him. The owner fetched some, and inconsiderately opened the door to give it to the man, but when he looked out all the three were there, and as he reached the fruit to one of them, a second fired, and the greatest part of the shot entered the abdomen. The known courage of the wounded man made these fellows

hesitate in approaching him immediately, by which means he had time to reach his sword, which stood near to where he was, and he was enabled to close and bolt the door. This being done, he reached his bed with great difficulty, expecting that every minute would be his last. The men tried to gain admittance through some of the doors or windows, but not succeeding in this they rode off. As soon as the slave who was in health heard the report of the gun and saw his master wounded, he made all haste to a neighboring plantation, distant one league. The owner of the place to which the slave had fled, ordered a hammock to be prepared, and set off with sixteen negroes. accompanied by his chaplain, who brought with him a candle and all the other necessary appendages

to the bedside of a dying Catholic. They arrived and found the wounded man in a state which led them to suppose that he could not live many hours, but he was confessed and anointed with the holy oil, and thus prepared for the worst. Then they put him into the hammock, and his neighbor had him conveyed to his residence. The person who related the story to me did not fail to add that the lighted candle was carried in a lantern, that the wounded man should not run the risk of dying without having the light in his hand, as is the custom. A surgeon was sent for it to Iguada-Su, which is distant several leagues, and he succeeded in extracting almost all the shot. Notwithstanding the delay in other unfavorable circumstances, I saw this man in good health in 1813.

Whilst he still remained in a dangerous state at the house of his friend, a Certanaiso Indian, well-armed, passed through the place, and asked one of the Negroes if he was still alive. It was generally said that he must remove to some far distant part of the country, otherwise he might daily expect another attack, and particularly as his enemies were Certanasia's. The men who had attempted to murder him were dressed after the manner of these people, and were seen on the following day traveling towards the interior. They mentioned, at some of the cottages at which they stopped, that they believed they had prevented one man from eating any more pyrum, which is equal to an European using in the same manner the word

bread. The person whom they had attacked could not be sure of a quarter from whence the blow proceeded, for many were those from which he might have expected it. In Brazil, injured persons or their relatives must either allow their own wrongs in those of their families to go unpunished, or they must themselves undertake the chastisement of him who has committed the crime. The evil proceeds immediately from the vastness of the country and from the want of attention and the government to counteract this disadvantage. End of Section 15 Section 16 of Travels in Brazil, Volume 1 by Henry Koster.

This Leaplewock recording is in the public domain. Chapter 11 Part 1 Residents at Jaguariba, Journey to Guyana, Illness Return to Jaguariba After the journey to Bom Jardim, I did not again leave Hesifi for any length of time until I entered with a friend into a scheme of farming. It had been greatly my wish to remove from the town into the country from preference rather than from any other cause.

In the beginning of April 1812, we rented the sugar plantation of Jaguariba, distant from Hesifee four leagues, in a northward direction, and about one league from the coast. It had upon it several slaves, oxen, machinery, and implements, which enabled the new tenant to enter it immediately. A few days after these matters were arranged, I accompanied the owner to the plantation for the purpose of meeting the person who was about to leave it, being the second visit which I had made to my intended place of residence. Having agreed with this man, the owner and myself returned to sleep at the dwelling of one of his brothers, which was situated about a mile and a half from the coast. This person had purchased

some lands, which he was now clearing, and upon which he was erecting several buildings. He and his family inhabited a barn, and were to sleep in his new house, of which the roof and the woodwork of the walls were alone erected. The rainy season had commenced, and this unfinished dwelling was almost surrounded by pools of stagnant water, inhabited by enormous toads, whose loud and and hoarse croaking continued during the whole of the night without intermission. The trunks of the trees, which had been cut down a short time before, were lying as they had fallen in all directions. In the morning I set off alone on my return to Hesife. I made for the seashore, and soon reached the river Dossi, a narrow stream which after a course of

four or five leagues here discharges into waters into the sea. The tide enters it, and again recedes with considerable rapidity. At such times it is not fordable, but at the ebb, the remaining waters are very trifling, and some parts of the channel are left quite dry. It is necessary to pass quickly over, as the sand of which its bed is composed is very fine, and although not altogether what is called quicksand, still to delay in one spot is not quite safe. When the tide is out, the water of the river is quite sweet, which has obtained for it the name of Dossi. It was upon the borders of this river that the Portuguese and the Dutch were first opposed

to each other in this part of Brazil. Footnote. History of Brazil. Volume 1. Pages 467 and 468. End footnote. Here commenced the memorable struggle upon which the Pernabucans, with so much reason, pride themselves. The beginning was not perpetuous and did not augur well of the result, but time proved the people to be worthy of the beautiful country which they inhabit. the river Tapado, upon the banks of which the Portuguese commander afterwards attempted to rally his men, lies between the Doce and Olinda. It is a rivulet or dike, for it resembles more the latter than the former, without any outlet to the sea, but it is only separated from it by the

sands, which are here about twenty yards across. When the rains have been violent, the additional waters of the tapado are discharged over the sands, and so, sometimes at spring tides, when the wind blows fresh, a few waves will reach over them and fall into the dike, this being the only manner in which they can communicate with each other. At the Dose, likewise landed Pedro Jacques de Malgaleines, the general in Brito Ferrer, now known as an historian. The admiral of the fleet, which assisted the patriots of Pernambuco and the completion of their long-desired and hardly-earned object, the reconquest of Hesifi and consequent expulsions of the Dutch.

Footnote. History of Brazil, volume 2, page 237. End footnote. But to return, I arrived upon the banks of the Dossi and Astata Cottage, which was not far distant. If the river was fordable, and being answered in the affirmative, I wrote up to its banks and attempted, to make my horse enter it, which he refused to do. I made a second and a third trial, when he plunged in, swimming, was with much difficulty that he gained the outermost point of the

sandbank on the opposite side. He had passed a bad night and was not in a proper state to perform this task, nor should I have attempted it if I had known the depth, but I imagined that the tide had sufficiently retreated. My clothes were dry before I arrived at home, but I longed the tide of felt the consequences of crossing the d'ose. About the middle of May I removed to Jaguariba, the road to it is through the plantation of Paulistas. From whence after crossing the Paratibi, a narrow path leads to the left through a deep wood for nearly one league. A steep hill is to be surmounted, and its corresponding declivity carefully descended. The wood continues to a break in the hill, on the side nearest to Jaguariba. On reaching this far,

there was a view before me, which would in most situations be accounted very beautiful. But in this delightful country, so many fine prospects are continually presenting themselves that I opened upon this with few feelings of pleasure at the sight. I cannot avoid owning that the advantages of the place as a plantation occupied my mind more deeply than its beauties. Immediately before me was a cottage in a row of Negro huts, surrounded by banana trees, standing up on a shelf of the hill. Beyond these to the left was the narrow but far-extending valley, upon whose nearest border were situated the buildings of Jaguad Ibe, upon an open field, with the hills behind, and in front was the rivulet. To the right was a deep dell, with an expanse of country not

thickly covered with wood, and rather in advance, but also to the right, were numerous deep-colored mangroves, which pointed out that a stream of considerable size ran down among them. On the other side of the nearest of these mangroves, and not yet very far, was the high peak of St. Bentle, with the mangioc and maize lands, and wood upon its side, and the path winding up through them, which is at times concealed, and at times in view. But the buildings are not to be seen, though the tolling of the chapel bell may be often heard from the spot upon which I was standing. I was under the necessity of taking up my abode in the vestry of the chapel, as the great house was still occupied. The Negroes were already at work for us, and under the direction of a

proper feteur, or manager. The whole neighborhood was astonished at the place I had determined to inhabit until some other dwelling presented itself. I was certainly not comfortably situated, for the vestry consisted of only one apartment, with a doorway to the field, and a another into the church, the latter being without a door. The church was unfinished and was the resort of bats and owls. However, it was principally my unconcern respecting ghosts which my neighbors were surprised at. A negro boy and myself remained at night to encounter these, if any, should appear, and to receive our constant visitors, the bats. My companion rolled himself up on the ground in a piece of bays and a mat, and thus cased was quite safe.

i slept in a hammock and oftentimes these unwelcome guests alighted upon it as if they had come for the chance of a toe or a finger making its appearance upon which they might fix this way of living did not last long nor did i wish that it should the house of which i have spoken as being situated upon a shelf of the hill and as looking down upon the valley was soon without an inhabitant and therefore to this i removed it was large but the floors of the room were without bricks, and the interior walls had not been whitewashed for an age, and some of them had never undergone the operation. I received visits and presents, as is customary, from my immediate neighbors, the white persons and those of color who aspire to gentility, and indeed many individuals of the lower class did not neglect to come and offer their services to the newcomer, whose character and disposition towards them they judged that it was necessary to be become acquainted with. In many instances, the wives of the latter description of visitors came also

and brought sweetmeats, fruit, or flowers. I received them all, sitting in my hammock. The men sat round on chairs, and the women generally squatted down upon the floor, though it was formed of earth. I talked to them of my intentions, and of my wish to conciliate, and I heard much of pickerings and squabblings among those of their rank, and a feuds between their superiors. The same stories being related to me in many different ways. They were much surprised that I should wear so much clothes, saying that I ought to do as they did, and be unencumbered, and their advice I soon followed. I was much amused, and for some days these visits took up the largest portion of my time. The lands around me to the north belonged to the Benedictine friars,

and to the east to an old lady, those of the latter were much neglected, but those which were possessed by the former were in high order. To the south, beyond the wood through which I passed in coming to Jaguariba, are the lands of Paulistas, and to the west and northwester some excellent cane lands, belonging to a religious lay brotherhood of free Negroes of Olinda, which were tenanted by and subdivided among a great number of persons of low rank, whites, mulattoes, and blacks. The work went on regularly, and I had soon very little in which to employ my time, accepting those things by which I might think proper to amuse myself. In the beginning of June it was necessary that I should visit Guayana.

However, I took a certuitous route for the purpose of seeing something new. I was accompanied by an old free man of color, and by Manuel, a faithful African. We slept the first night at Aguart, the estate of the Capitamor with whom I traveled to Bomp Giardim, and on the following morning, proceeded through self. several sugar plantations. We rested at midday at Purgatorio, a small cotton and Mungiak plantation, but we could not purchase anything of which to make a dinner, and therefore, as was usual on such occasions, we smoked in place of eating. When the sun had declined a little, we again set forth. A few of the sugar plantations, through which we passed in the afternoon, were in a decayed

state. We stopped at a cottage and begged the owner to sell us a fowl, but she refused. We had not eaten anything this day. I was loath so to do, but I could not avoid saying that she must sell one, that I did not mind the price, but that hunger would not allow me to let her do as she pleased in this case. She fixed upon one and made me pay exorbitantly for it. We parted in the end, very good friends. She offered me some herbs with which to cook the bird, and after this reconciliation we again advanced. By going to purgatorial, we left the usual direct road. Crossroads, even in England, are not good. So what must they be in Brazil? In one part, we were obliged to lean down upon our horses' necks and to proceed in this manner for some distance, with the branches of the trees

completely closed above. The plantation of Mundo Novo, or the New World, which we reached late in the afternoon was in ruins. Trees grew in the chapel, and the brushwood in front of the dwelling-house rose higher than its roof. I slept at a cottage hard by which was inhabited by an elderly man and a number of children, large and small. The ill-fated fowl and another which we had also obtained by the way were addressed by the daughters of our host. Soon the cooking was affected, and I commenced operations, literally with tooth and nail, upon one of the birds, for there were no knives, forks, or spoons to be had. However, I did receive some assistance from my own Faka,

Gipontah, a pointed knife or dirt, which, though prohibited by law, is worn by all ranks of persons. At night my hammock was slung under the penthouse. At a late hour a shower of rain came on. Our host had a vast herd of goats, these crowded in from the rain, and soon I was obliged in self-defense to rise, as I discovered that they had very little respect for me. My head and some of theirs, having come in contact, made me look out for better quarters.

And these I found upon a high table, where I remained until the visitors again ventured forth. We proceeded on the morrow, and reached Guyana by the low marshy lands of Katu. The river was scarcely fordable, but we crossed, and on the opposite side the loose mud and the road reached above the horse's knees, and continued along it for more than 100 yards.

We entered it, and the horses gently weighed it through, but mine unfortunately felt that his tail was not quite easy in the mud, and therefore began to move it to and fro on either side, and as it was long, much too long for this occasion, it struck me at every jerk. My dress was a light-colored Nanking jacket and trousers, and I came forth, without exaggeration, one cake of mud from head to foot.

I rode to the residence of a person with whom I had been long acquainted. He'd taken up his quarters in a new Mangia plantation, which had been lately established in the outskirts of Guayana. My friend had removed to this place to superintend some of the workmen. I stayed only two days at Guyana, for I soon accomplished the object of my journey, which was to obtain twenty Indian laborers from Alhandra. My return to Jagaripe was by the usual road. The day after my arrival at my new home, I rode to Hesife, and had on the following day an attack of Agu. I had exposed myself lately too much to the sun, and had been several times wet through. The disorder left me in a fortnight. My horses were sent for. They came, and I set off for Jaguaripe,

but in midway I was drenched with rain, and reaching that place much tired, went to sleep unintentionally in my hammock, without changing my clothes. In the morning I felt that the Agu was returning, and therefore ordered my horse and rode out to try to shake off the attack, which the peasants say it is possible to do. However, whilst I was talking with a neighbor on horseback at his door, the Agu came on, and I was unable to return to my dwelling. The next day the Indians from Alhandra arrived. They had imbibed strange notions, of the richest of an Englishman, and their captain told me that they knew I was very rich and could afford to give higher wages than anyone else.

I tried to undeceived them in this respect, but all to no purpose. I offered the usual rate of labor in the country, but their characteristic obstinacy had entered into them, and they preferred returning as they came to any abatement of their first demand, although this was twenty-five percent higher than any person had ever been known, known to give for daily labor. They dined, placed their wallets upon their shoulders, and went away. One of my people said, as they disappeared, ascending the hill beyond the field, they had rather work for anyone else for half the money than lower in their demands to you. I was removed from

this neighbor's house after a few days in a hammock, but finding that the disorder increased, I sent for my manager, an old man of color, whose wife attended upon me. By my desire he collected a sufficient number of bearers, as it was my wish to be carried to Hesife. About five o'clock in the afternoon we set off. There were sixteen men to bear the hammock by turns, and the manager was likewise in company. Of these persons, only two were slaves. After we passed the wood, and had arrived upon a good road, the bearers proceeded at a long walk, approaching to a run.

Their wild chorus, which they sung as they went along, their mischiefs, and throwing stones at the dogs by the roadside, and in abuse half joking, half wishing for an opportunity of quarreling, confident in their numbers, and that as they were in the surface of a white man, he would bring them out of any scrape. It was very strange, and had I been less unwell, this journey would have much amused me. As we pass through Olinda, a woman asked my men if they carried a dead body, for it is in this manner they are brought from a distance for her intermin. one of the bearers answered no it is the devil footnote seora now i o diablo end footnote and then turning to me said is it not so my master footnote ghi dis me o amo

and footnote i said yes and the good woman walked away saying ave maria the lord forbid footnote ave maria nosa senor no sivre and footnote the wind was high and some rain fell as we crossed the olinda sands we arrived at hesifi between nine and ten o'clock the bearer stopped before we approached the gateway at the entrance of the town that each man might in some way or other conceal his long unlawful knife without one of these weapons. No peasant or great man leaves his home, notwithstanding the prohibition. I became gradually worse, until my recovery was not expected, but the kind attentive hand of another Englishman here again was stretched forth. My former friend had left the country, but another supplied his place, and from him I received every brotherly kindness. I cannot forbear mentioning the following circumstances related to my illness. I went on board an English

merchant ship some weeks after my recovery, and on passing a cask which was lying upon the deck, I struck it intentionally, but without any particular object. The master who was an old gentleman with whom I had come from England, and who had been long acquainted with me, said, yes, you would not have liked it. I asked him what he meant, to which he replied, It was for you, but you gave us the slip this time. I did not yet understand him, so he continued. Why, do you think I would have let you remain among these fellows here, who would not have given you a Christian burial?

I intended to have taken you home in that punch and have run. I was told by one of my medical attendants when I was recovering that some old maiden ladies, who lived near to where I resided, had frequently pressed him, whilst I was in a dangerous state, to have the sacrament brought to me, for they were much aggrieved that I should die without any chance of salvation. An English merchant of Hesife asked my particular friend when the funeral was to take place, and one of the medical men wrote a note to the same person late one night, inquiring whether his attendance on the following morning had been rendered unnecessary. As soon as I was well enough

to remove, I took a small cottage at the village of Montero that I might have the advantage of better air than that of Hesife, and yet not to be too far distant from medical advice. Here I passed my time very pleasantly in daily intercourse with a most worthy Irish family of whom I shall always preserve recollections of gratitude for the kindness which I received at that time and on other occasions. On the night of my arrival at Montero, one of my pack-horses was stolen, but the animal was recognized some weeks afterwards by a boy who was in my service. The man into whose hands he had fallen happened to pass through the village, and thus I recovered my horse.

It is astonishing to what a great extent horse-stealing has been carried. In a country which bound so much with these animals, it is almost the only species of robbery, for the practicing of which regular gangs of men have been discovered to have been formed, but these fellows will sometimes also chance to lay hold of a stray ox or cow. Footnote. These practices were, or rather are, carried on in one part of the country with which I am well acquainted. The persons who commit the crimes are white men and of high birth.

Among them was a priest. The magistrate of the district in question was applied to by a man who had lost a cow, mentioning that he more than suspected where she was, and at the same time naming the place a tropa, or a troop or party of Ordinanza soldiers were collected, and these men were dispatched to search the house, which had been pointed out under the command of a corporal of well-known courage. They arrived there and knocked. The door was opened by the owner, who was the priest connected with the gang. He said that he could not allow his house to be entered without an order from the ecclesiastical court. This answer was conveyed to the magistrate

who had signed the order, the soldiers remaining round about the house. A second order arrived, and the bearer brought with him a couple of hatchets, thus expressly pointing out to the corporal what he was to do. Forthwith, preparations were made for breaking open the door, when the priest said that he would allow the corporal to enter alone. The man fearlessly went in, but his As soon as the door was again closed, the priest seized upon him, and some of the negroes who were in another apartment sprang forwards to assist their master. But the corporal disengaged himself, and standing upon the defensive, called to his men, who soon broke into the house.

Search was made, and the carcass and hide of the cow were found, and were with the negroes taken publicly to the nearest town. The mark of the red-hot iron upon the haunch had been burnt out of the the hide, that discovery might be rendered less easy. The priest was punished by suspension from saying Mass for a few months. I was subsequently acquainted with him. He was received by many persons as if nothing had been amiss, but he was not received as heretofore, for the individuals of his own profession would not, generally speaking, associate with him. The circumstance had not, however, so completely prevented his re-entrance into decent society, as such a crime would have done

in many other countries, or so much as would have occurred at Pernambuco if he had been a layman. End footnote. I was most anxious to return to Jacquaripe, and about the middle of October was making preparations for the purpose, when the manager arrived from the plantation, with the intelligence that one of his assistants had been attacked two nights before. and nearly killed by some persons who had been commissioned to perform this deed in revenge of some real or imagined injury which the man had committed this determined my proceedings the following morning i set off with a manager and a servant to see the wounded man i found him at his father's house in most woeful plight his face was dreadfully lacerated and his body much bruised the deed had been done by bludgeon's and evidently in fear else the time the time was dreadfully lacerated and his body much bruised the deed had been done by bludgeon's and evidently in fear else the task would have been performed less clumsily and more effectually.

I never could discover by whom the murder was intended, nor the persons who attempted it. They were dressed in leather, like Certanaisos, but the sufferer imagined that this costume was made use of as a disguise. Two men sprang out upon him. In a narrow lane which had high banks on each side, he defended himself for some time with his sword, but the overpowered him at last, and his weapon was the only part of his property which they carried off. I removed altogether from Montero in a few days. My presence had long been necessary at Jaguaripe, for the mill was at work, and as frequently

happens in every country, some of the persons who were employed had not remained empty-handed. The poor fellow who had been way-led soon returned to the plantation. He told me that every night large stones were thrown violently against his door, between the hours of one and four in the morning. I called the manager the following evening, and both of us being armed, we took our station near to the gate which leads into the field, one being on each side behind the high bank. We could hear the footsteps of any person long before he could approach us, as the splashing in the rivulet, which runs beyond the gate, would give us timely notice. The mosquitoes gave us much employment. However, we remained at our post until half an hour before

daybreak, without seeing anything, but the practice was discontinued. Two men had arrived early in the night to offer themselves as laborers. They were awake when we return, had made a good fire upon the ground in a mill, a spacious roof supported upon brick pillars, and were sitting rounded upon their heels. We joined them, and here I heard the stories of their own prowess of charms and miracles, and other conversation of the same nature, each of them telling something strange which he had seen or heard. Footnote. A free negro, with whom I had been acquainted whilst I resided at this place, and who came to see me when I removed to Itamaraasa, told me with much horror pictured in his

countenance of the fate of a man who had worked for me. He said that this person occasionally became a lobos omen, a wolfman. I asked him to explain, when he said that the man was at times transformed into an animal of the size of a calf with the figure of a dog, that he left his home at midnight in this metamorphosed state and ran about with the violence of a mad dog, and that he attacked anyone whom he might chance to meet. The black man was perfectly persuaded of the correctness of his own statement when he related, having, with his brother-in-law and his sister, met this uncommon beast near to their own cottages. I suppose it was some large dog, which prowled about to satisfy his hunger in the neighborhood of these habitations.

But no, the man was persuaded that it was poor Miguel. End of Section 16. Section 17 of Triphals in Brazil, Volume 1 by Henry Costa. This leap of block's recording is in the public domain. Chapter 11, Part 2. Much time had been lost, and the cane, to have been planted for the crop of the following year. The negroes in my possession could not perform what ought to be done in proper time,

and therefore I collected free laborers for the purpose, and in a short period between thirty and forty men, some of whom brought their families, removed onto the lands of the plantation, and most of them erected hovels of palm leaves in which they dwelt, but a few of them were accommodated with huts of mud. They were Indians, mulattoes, free negroes, and slaves working together, a motley crew. I had now taken up my abode at the house, which was

usually inhabited by the owner or tenant. This was a low but long mud cottage, covered with tiles and whitewashed within and without. It had brick floors, but no ceiling. There were two apartments of tolerable dimensions, several small rooms in a kitchen. The chief entrance was from a sort of square, formed by the several buildings belonging to the estate. in front was the chapel to the left was a large dwelling-house unfinished and the negro huts a long roll of small habitations having much the appearance of almshouses without the neatness of places of this description in england to the right was the mill worked by water and the warehouse or barn in which the sugar undergoes the process of clang and to the view of these buildings may be at it the pens for the cattle the carts heaps of timber and a small pond through which the water runs to the mill at the back of the house was the large open field the mill-dam beyond and cottages mandiak lands and trees along the valley bordered on each side by steep hills covered with thick woods oftentimes i have sat at night upon the threshold of the door after all my people had retired to their habitations they have supposed that i was asleep then i have heard the whisperings in the negro huts and have observed some one leaving his house and steal away to visit an acquaintance residing at some distance

or there has been some clandestine feast or merry-making thus late at night neighboring negroes have been invited and have crept in during the evening unperceived it is on these occasions that plans for deceiving the master are contrived in these sweet unpermitted meetings the schemes are formed then the slave-owner who is aware of such secret practices and reflects must feel of how little avail are all his regulations all his good management restraint creates the wish to act contrary to given rules the slave has a natural bias to deceive him who holds him in subjugation a man may love the master whom he may at pleasure leave but to be tied down and as a duty enjoined to esteem fails not in most instances to rouse contrary feelings to awake in a sense of pleasure rather than a pain in counteracting the wishes and in rendering nucatory the determinations of him who commands at other times far distant ideas from these have occupied my mind i thought of the strange life i was leading a remembrance of feudal times in europe has crossed me and i could not forbear comparing with them the present state of the interior of Brazil. The great power of the planter, not only over his slaves, but his authority over the free persons of lower rank, the respect which is required by these barons from the free inhabitants of their lands. Footnote. On Saturdays only throughout the country are cattle slaughtered, and thus weekly

many persons of each neighborhood assemble, as much to converse and hear the news as to purchase their portion of meat. On one of these occasions a young man of color was stooping to arrange upon the end of his walking stick the meat which he had bought. At the moment that a person of considerable power was riding up, the man of importance, when he came near to the young mulatto, struck him with a long cane with which he rode, saying, why don't you take off your hat when a white man appears? The blow was felt severely, and still more severely answered. The man of color drew his knife and quickly turning round, ran it hilt deep into the groin of him by whom he had been insulted. And then with a bloody knife in his hand, he ran off, vowing destruction upon anyone who touched him.

The rich man had only time, before he died, to direct that the murderer should not be pursued, owing that his own impetuous tyranny had deservedly produced this catastrophe. The young man returned in a few weeks to his former home, and was not molested by the relatives of him whom he had murdered, nor did the law take cognizance of the deed. End footnote. The assistance which they expect from their tenants, in case of insult, from a neighboring equal, the dependence of the peasants, and their wish to be under the peculiar protection of a person of wealth who is capable of relieving them from any oppression, and is speaking

in their behalf to the governor, or to the chief judge. All these circumstances combined, tend to the similarity very great. I even felt the power which had unintentionally fallen into my hands. I'd collected a considerable number of free workmen, and the estate was respected for miles round. Many of these fellows would have committed almost any crime under the impression that my protection would screen them, and if I had not turned some away and threatened others that I would aid the law rather than evade it, should their proceedings be irregular. I know not what evil deeds might not have followed. Footnote. The following anecdote exemplifies the feudal state of the planters a few years since. It was related to me by a gentleman upon whose veracity I have every reason

to rely. Some fifteen years ago, the governor of Pernambuco sent for a sergeant of the only regiment to the line which existed at that time, whose courage was well known and much dreaded. He received orders from the governor to proceed with all expedition possible. possible to the sugar plantation of Manjope, distant from Hesifi four leagues, for the purpose of taking the owner of that place into custody. Or if he found that his apprehension alive was impracticable, he was then to bring his head to the governor. The sergeant was desired to pick out as many soldiers as he thought fit to accompany him, but he said that he should go alone, and consequently the following morning he set forth. On his arrival at Manjope, he was,

received by the owner of the plantation, who was a colonel of militia, or a Capitam Moore. Being seated, he quietly made his errand known, showing to the great man the order for his apprehension, and mentioning the additional instructions in case of disobedience. The colonel left the room, but soon returned with a bag containing about the value of a hundred pounds in gold coins, and presented this to the sergeant, who told him to return and tell the governor that he would visit him as soon as possible and explained to him the circumstances which had given rise to this mission. The sergeant took the money and set out on his return, and by the way bought a sheep, killed it, and then cutting off its head, put this into a bag.

On arriving at the palace, he placed his bloody berthin upon the ground and pointing to it, said to the governor, I've executed your commands. He would not come, and therefore I brought his head. The governor, all amazement, answered, and have you really killed the colonel of Manjope? The sergeant replied, I've only acted according to the orders which I received. The following morning, what was the astonishment of the governor, to hear that the colonel of Manjopi was in waiting and wished to see him? He gave him an audience, matters were explained, and they parted good friends. The sergeant was sent for after the departure of the colonel, and I'm being questioned told the whole story and showed the bag of money.

The governor was displeased, but at the same time ashamed of the rash orders which he had given. The sergeant was, however, too useful a man to be in disgrace. End footnote. Whilst I was unwell at Hesifi and Montero, the manager and his wife had taken possession of the house, and here they remained for some time after my return. Thus I lived literally among the people. I had indeed my meals alone, but generally two or three of the persons employed upon the plantation were in this room, whilst I breakfasted or dined, and they stood or sat talking to me.

Anyone reached me a plate or a else for which I asked, if he happened to be near to what I wanted. The manager and his wife told me many strange tales. He was a man of feudal stamp, honest and faithful in every respect, from personal regard to the man whom he served, but not in general to the world, not from a principle of right and wrong. This is very frequently the case among these people. He was, however, of the right sort for what I wanted, and if I was again to travel there I should seek him out. I'd become somewhat intimate in several families of the neighborhood, but was the most amused with my acquaintance in those of secondary rank, where there is less ceremony than among persons of the first class. In the former, the females often

appear when the visitor is a neighbor, has concerns with the master of the house, and becomes intimate with him. The festival of St. Bento was to be celebrated about the close of the year in the adjoining plantation, belonging to the monks of whom he is the patron saint. The convent is at Olinda, and there the abbot resides. The fraternity is rich, possessing much landed property. Upon the estate adjoining to Jagaribe, Mangiac maize, rice, and other articles of food are cultivated, with which the convent is supplied. The slaves upon it are in number about one hundred, of all ages, and the last African died whilst I resided in that part of the country. The festival at which I intended to be present

was that of Our Lady of the Rosary, the patroness of Negroes. The expense which was to be incurred was subscribed for by the slaves of the estate, and the festival was entirely managed by the them. Three friars attended to officiate at the altar, but the lights, the fireworks, and all other necessary articles were provided for by a committee of the slaves. The manager of the estate was a mulatto slave, who made a visit upon my arrival at Jaguariba, and on the occasion of the festival, came to invite me to the Novena and to the festa, the nine previous evenings and the festival. Or rather he came to request that I would not fail to go, as he feared that my people and his might quarrel. I went with a large party of men and women. We ascend at the hill,

and on our arrival at its summit, I was invited by one of the black women to enter her cottage, the same invitation being made to several other persons of our party. The chapel is placed quite upon the highest point of the hill, and the house in which the friars dwell, when they come to the estate, and the row of Negro huts form a semi-circle about it, thus in part in closing the chapel. These habitations looked down upon the broad river of Maria Farina, winding below among the mangroves, and there are several creeks on the opposite side, which look like so many branches. The crowd which had assembled was considerable, and was not a little increased by my free workmen, some of whom were unmarried men, unencumbered and ready for any mischief.

I was armed with a long pike and a large knife of the country, and it brought three of my slaves, accoutred much in the same manner, three resolute Africans, upon whom I could depend, in whose business it was closely to watch their master. Before the commencement of the prayers and singing in the chapel, the black people extended several mats upon the ground in the open air, and our party sat down upon the, them to converse and to eat cakes and sweetmates of which many kinds were exposed for sale in

great abundance. All went on quietly for three nights, for the Malapto manager forbade the sale of rum, but on the fourth night some liquor unfortunately found its way up the hill. In Nikolao, the manager, came in haste to inform me that a few of my Indians were earnestly bent on quarrelling with a party of his people. I rose from the mat upon which I had been seated, and followed by my bodyguard, accompanied him back to the spot, where I soon saw that a fight had commenced. Persuasion was of no avail, and therefore my Negroes made use at the bud end of their pikes, and brought an Indian to the ground, who was delivered over to Saman, one of my fellows, and I desired the two slaves who remained to assist the Saint-Bento Negroes.

I thus proved that I would not uphold my own people if they acted irregularly, and the matter fortunately end it with only some trifling-phing-prongrues. bruises, and one broken head. The Indian was conveyed home by Simone, who returned to tell me that he had placed the man in the stocks, with the intent of sober him. No more quarrels were entered into, for this affair quite sickened all those who might have been so inclined. In the morning the Indian was set at liberty, and he quietly went off to his work, not being much the worse. I had great pleasure in witnessing the most excellent arrangements of this plantation, the Negroes are as happy as persons in a state of slavery can be. But although the tasks are, comparatively speaking, easy and corporal

punishments are only resorted to for children, still the great object at which they aim is to be free and to purchase the freedom of their children. Footnote. Slaves are permitted to purchase their own freedom, or tendering to the master the sum of money which he originally gave for them. but i shall presently speak more at large of this law and of slavery as it exists in brazil and footnote one man who was a fisherman by trade had obtained the manumission of his wife though he was still a slave himself with the intent that if he should still have any more children they might be free and he purposed afterwards purchasing his own freedom and that of the young ones several instances of the same behavior frequently occurs upon the estates belonging to these and other friars thus every one wishes to be a free agent and it is this feeling alone which makes a saint bento negro do all in his power to be able to act for himself for very probably he may be obliged to labor with more diligence to obtain his living as a free man than as a slave. The emancipated Negro oftentimes becomes an excellent member of society,

for he contracts habits of industry, in which he continues. But again, if he has been hardly treated by a rigorous master, he becomes disgusted with an indifferent to life, is rendered callous to shame, and drags on in an idle, miserable existence. Another festival was to take place at one of the chapels of upon the coast, which is dedicated to Our Lady of the Conception. This was distant one league and a half from Jagaribe. However, we formed a party, and mounted our horses one moonlight evening, the females

riding behind their husbands and relations, with a sheet or counterpane thrown over the horses haunches upon which they sat. We came out upon the seashore at the Church of Our Lady of the O, of which I shall presently speak, not far from the fort of Pao Amarello, and from thence proceeding along the sands to the place of our destination i was introduced to the family of an old portuguese who resided there his son had just taken orders as a secular priest and was to say his first mass on the day of the festival there were puppet shows tumblers and all their attendants in great abundance fireworks and bonfires noise bustle and no lack of quarrelling within the chapel there was a display of wax tapers praying singing and music as is usual. The assemblage of persons was very considerable. Indeed, wherever the surf is not violent, the seashore is well-peopled, along the whole extent of coast between Olinda and the bar of the River Guyana. In many parts the low straw huts are united, or nearly so in long rows together.

Whitewashed cottages with tiled roofs are frequently interspersed. Churches and chapels have been built, and few intervals of much extent remain on people. The land, The lands are planted with the cocoa trees, which is the most profitable plant of Brazil. The cocoa tree appears to be adapted to the sandy soil of the coast, upon which only very few others will vegetate. Here it flourishes, and seems to derive nourishment from its vicinity to the sea. But when it is situated in rich land, the cocoa tree droops, and even upon the sandy plains of the interior, it does not bear its fruit with the same luxuriance, or reach that height, which it attains when exposed to the sea breeze.

These cocoa groves, through which the eye can reach for miles, with the hovels composed entirely of the leaves of these trees spread among them, form in some parts very picturesque views, and if as frequently occurs the cottage is situated upon the border of a wood, just where the koku is in, and the dark green foliage of the forest trees is seen behind, then the view is even romantic, and if the wind is high, the rustling of the koko

trees and the dashing of the waves increases much the wildness of the scene. However, to return, as soon as the church service was ended, we mounted our horses and rode back to our Lady of the O. We alighted at a cottage which stood near to the church, the inhabitants of which were acquainted with some of our party. The moon was bright, and the breeze moderate. We sat down upon mats before the door, and were regaled with quantities of young cocoa-nuts, a most delightful fruit when they are in this state. Some of us walked down toward the beach. The tide was out, and I observed several large blocks of hewn stone,

partly buried in the sand below high water mark. I inquired what had caused them to be there, and was answered that a church had formerly stood upon that spot, and I heard then and afterwards often saw that the sea was making considerable encroachments along the coast, to the distance of half a league or more each way. the new church of our lady of the o was now building a distance of about three hundred yards from the shore strange tales are told of the miraculous deeds of this lady When the church was about to be rebuilt, many of the landholders of the neighborhood were desirous of having the edifice upon their ground.

This proceeded from a religious feeling. Lots were drawn to determine upon the site of the new church, and although manifestly inconvenient from many causes, it has been erected upon the spot where it now stands, because the same lot was drawn three times. A very great objection, and one which in common cases would have been insurmountable, is that this is the lowest piece of land in the neighborhood, and is opposite to the place upon which the sea is making the most rapid advances. Water, too, for mixing the lime and sand, must have been conveyed from a considerable distance, but a spring of it gushed forth at the moment that one of the laborers was making preparations for the commencement of his work. And since the Capella Moore,

or principal chapel, has been built, all kinds of diseases are said to be cured. The fame of this most powerful lady has reached far and wide, and from the interior to the distance of 150 leagues, persons who were afflicted with disorders which have been considered incurable by human means, have come down to make their offerings to this avaricious personage, whose powerful intercession is not to be obtained unless she is in return well paid for her trouble. Footnote. In old Portuguese, whose faith in the intercession of saints could not be very strong, being asked for alms to assist in the decoration of an image, refused to give anything, and added, the saints are in a much better situation than I am. They don't want any assistance for me.

End footnote. As the road from the Certown to the seashore was by Jagaribe, I saw many of the travelers. I conversed with many wealthy persons whose sole errand was to offer part of their possessions, a ponderition of relief from the malady under which they suffered. the patrimony of this church is now considerable from the numerous donations which have been made some of these have been advanced on credit the donors being fully confident of repayment in the manner which they desire others have been made in consequence of the persons who gave them having been really cured faith has done what medicine could not such has been the reliance upon the efficacy of the prayers which were offered up and upon the power of the lady that the probability of disappointment has never occurred to them. And when the disorder proceeds more from the imagination than from the body, I should suppose that a cure may be affected, much in the same manner that in other countries cures are said to be performed by medicinal waters, of which, although the qualities

may be very excellent, yet the name may surpass the reality in bringing about the desired end. The miracles of Our Lady of the O are performed in three ways, by prayer from the patient, by drinking the water of the spring, or by application of some of it to the part affected, and by eating or outwardly applying a small quantity of the salt which oozes from the wall against which the high altar stands. Footnote. I insert the following passage from number 32nd of Dr. Thompson's Annals of Philosophy, page 138.

It is given for the purpose of acquainting the supporters of Our Lady of the O that the salt oozes from walls and heretical as well as in a Catholic country. The formation of Niter upon calcareous stones in certain situations has been long known. An advantage has been taken of it to procure that important salt in great quantities, though no satisfactory theory of the formation of the salt itself has yet been offered to the public. The present paper contains a set of observations on the appearance of an efflorescence of salt, Peter, on the walls of the Ashmo Laboratory at Oxford, a large ground room sunk below the area of the street. The walls are built of Oxford limestone, a granular floats limestone containing many

fragments of shells of vegetable bodies and composed of 96 carbonate of lime and four of oakry sand. The salt form was nearly pure, though it contained traces of lime and of sulfuric and muriatic acids. What was formed in winter contained most lime. The formation of the salt was most rapid in frosty weather. It formed slowly, and the quantity even diminished in moist weather after it had been deposited. Exclusion from the air did not preclude the deposition of the salt, though it diminished it considerably. Page 70. The paper of which the above is an analysis is by John Kidd, M.D., Professor of chemistry in Oxford. End footnote. A village has risen around the church, composed of huts for the sick, who have journeyed far from other districts. The business has completely succeeded. The money which

was required for rebuilding the church has been obtained, and when I came away the concern was going on prosperously. I heard the remark made by some firm believers that such was the sinfulness of the inhabitants of the vicinity that the lady had scarcely vouchsafed to perform any cures upon them. The wonderful stories of cures were always of persons who lived in remote districts. But I did meet with a few cases in which fancied illness from lowness of spirits was removed. The general credulity of the lower orders of people, and even of many individuals of the higher ranks, is beyond all belief, no persuasion, no reasoning is of any service, even a doubt of the truth of every story which told is not admitted. Footnote.

Some time ago, a wooden figure was brought up out of the sea in a fisherman's net, who was deposited in a place of safety, and was on inspection by some person who was judged confident to decide upon the subject, declared to be an image of St. Luke. It was removed to a church, and has taken its place as a representative of that saint. Now I have it whispered that this said St. Luke is no more than the figurehead of some unfortunate vessel which had been cast away, or that the figure had been broken off by a violent wave. End footnote.

From hence we proceeded to pay another visit. The owner of this cottage had no cocoa's to offer, but he would have dressed some fish, and he gave us some wild fruits. The sale of a jangatha was extended for us, and we laid down for some time to converse. At a late hour we set off homewards and from carelessness lost our way. We wandered through the paths of the woods of Maranguapi until we judged rightly as it happened, that we were in the road which would lead us to Jaguariba. There was much merriment, notwithstanding the disaster,

for we knew that daylight would end our difficulties, and it was now past two o'clock. The mill was continually at work. I usually took the first watch and superintendent the business until midnight. Several of my neighbors and their families came to amuse themselves in conversation, and others came for the purpose of eating sugarcane, of which everyone who has tasted must be fond. About this time died in childbed a female slave, who was generally regretted. She was a good servant, and an excellent wife and mother. The grief of her husband bore much the appearance of insanity.

He would not eat until the following day, and then he only tasted food from the persuasion of one of his children. Until the time of my departure from Pernambuco, he had not recovered his former spirits, and he never spoke of his wife without tears in his eyes. Even some of the other slaves were for a few days after her death unsettled. The rude instruments upon which they were in the habit of playing in the evening at their doors were laid aside. All merriment was discontinued for some time. I was requested about this period to be bridesmen at the marriage of a mulatto couple. I agreed, and on the day appointed set forth for Parachib, accompanied by a free servant and a slave on horseback. I arrived about ten o'clock, and found a large

party of people of color assembled. The priest soon arrived, and he too was of the same cast. Breakfast of meat and birram, a paste made of farina, was placed upon the table. Some part of the company sat down and ate, others stood doing the same, and other stood, doing the same, again, as if they were afraid of losing a minute's conversation, continued to talk loudly and without ceasing. I've witnessed few such scenes of confusion. At last we proceeded to the church, to which I was begged to be permitted to ride, for the distance was considerable, and I was somewhat lame from an accident. As soon as the ceremony was over, we returned to the house. The bride was of a dark brown color, or her father was a negro, and her mother of mixed blood.

She was dressed in a rose-colored silk gown, and a black veil was thrown over her head and shoulders. She wore white shoes and white stockings with open clocks. The bridegroom was also of dark color. He wore a coat of brown cloth, a waistcoat of brocaded silk, and Nanking pantaloons. He had on shoes with large buckles and a cocked hat. Both of these persons were young, and they seemed to be dreadfully hampered by the increased stock of apparel which they carried. the scene at dinner was a counterpart of the breakfast affair with the addition of more noise and more confusion which was caused by a larger assemblage of people and more plentiful draughts of wine and rum i escaped as soon as possible but would not on any account have missed being present at this day's work on the night of christmas eve i did not go to bed for we were to hear the misa do gaio or cock pass as is customary

The priest arrived, and the night was spent merrily. This person did not at that time come regularly as a chaplain, but he was so engaged afterwards. End of Section 17. Section 18 of Travels in Brazil, Volume 1 by Henry Costa. The sleeper-box recording is in the public domain. Chapter 12 Journey to Unignyneña continuation of my residence at Jagaribe

Negro Brotherhood of Olinda Blessing the Sugar Works Mandingeros and Valenton's About the middle of January 1813 I went to stay for some days at the cottage of an acquaintance who resided upon the plain of Barbayu for the purpose of purchasing a few horses This place is near to the village of Montero

but it is on the opposite side of the river. Barbayo is a plain of some extent, upon which cattle are turned out to feed. The soil of it is a stiff, dark-colored clay, and the grass which grows upon it is of a coarse species. This becomes quite dry during the summer months, and when in this state it is set on fire that the tender shoots which again spring up

may serve as food for the animals that are to graze upon it. The fire will run along the ground, urged by a fresh breeze, will sometimes contract, and at others spread each way, presenting to the beholders a fiery wall. The sight is grand. It is upon a grand scale which gives it a terrific appearance. The inhabitants of the skirts of this plain carefully preserve a circle around their houses, in gardens, clear of vegetation. Apprehensive of some inconsiderate traveller who may chance to light a

pipe as he goes along, and throw away unexinguished the firestick of which he has made use. The person with whom I was staying persuaded me to ride with him to the sugar plantation of Oneña, which is distant six leagues to the southward of Barbayou. He described the place as being very beautiful, and I consented. This was the only opportunity which conveniently offered itself of seeing the country in this direction, but I much regret not having made greater exertions to visit the southern districts of Pernambuco. We pass through the hamlet and by the parish church of the Varsaya. A considerable extent of country is known under this name,

containing some of the finest cane lands of the province, which are owned by men of wealth who know the value of what they possess, and consequently the plantations are in a flourishing condition. The Varsaya is famous in Pernambucca in history, as the sight of a great deal of fighting. Kamaragibbe, which is in the vicinity, or rather a part of the Varsaya, and is spoken of by the historian of that country, is now a flourishing sugar plantation.

Footnote. I'm not certain of the situation of the Monchidas Tabocas, where one of the chief battles was fought between the Portuguese and the Dutch in 1645. History of Brazil, Volume 2, page 108. There is now a plantation called Tabocas, which is owned by one of the chiefs of the Cavalcante family, but as I was acquainted with him and several other persons of the same description, I think the circumstance would have been mentioned if this had been the place. End footnote.

We reached the sugar plantation of Camasari, belonging to the Carmelite friars. It is in high order, that is, the slaves and cattle are in good condition. and everything upon it appeared cheerful. But it does not yield so much produce as it might if the strength of the laborers was pushed to the utmost. I looked into the mill, which is turned by water, and saw some handsome mulatto girls feeding the mill with cane. They were dressed in petticoats of printed cotton

and smocks of cambric muslin, and they wore upon their necks and in their ears gold ornaments. They were singing in parts very tolerably. The difference between the planes, which belong to convents and those which are possessed by individuals who reside upon them, and have a direct interest in every trifling increase or decrease at the gains, is very striking. The estates of friars are worked almost exclusively by Negroes who have been borne upon them. Everything goes on easily and regularly.

If much is made, the better satisfied is the chief for the time being. But if, on the contrary, little is obtained, still the affairs of the community goal, on. We proceeded, and at some distance beyond, descended from a high hill into a narrow valley, which was completely embosomed by the eminences around, and so enclosed that we appeared to intrude upon its inhabitants in crossing the spot of their retirement. The grass upon the hills was dry, but all below was yet in full health. At length we arrived at the plantation of Oneinia, which is situated upon an extensive field, composed of uneven ground and watered by several springs. The mill is turned by oxen, which is a late improvement,

horses being usually employed where water cannot be obtained. We dined with the owner, and he returned with us to Barbayo in the afternoon. I was much delighted with the day's amusement. This was the most beautiful part of the country which I visited, taken as a whole. The hills and valleys are not high or extensive, but they are decidedly marked. Here cultivation, formed a considerable feature in the country. The cane lands were extensive, and the mills for its manufacture into sugar, numerous. On my return from Onina, I wished still to remain at Barballo for a few days, and therefore the owner of the cottage at which I was staying went on to Jaguariba to remain there until I could join him. I stayed with Manuel and Simaum. One morning, Manuel had gone to cut a bundle of

grass, and on his return met with an old acquaintance, a creole negro. They quarreled by the way, and as they came near to where I resided, the matter became serious, and blows were given and received, both of the men being armed with long poles. Simao saw this, took up a drawn sword which was lying upon a chair, and ran out to assist his comrade. I went out to put a stop to the business, and discovered that Simaum had cut an enormous gash in the fellow's head. And he had cut an enormous gash in the fellow's head. The man was brought into the cottage, and his wound was dressed. An acquaintance of mine happened now to come in, and he took charge of the negro and carried him home to his master. The negro was taking a load of grass for the horses of the governor, who resided at Montero,

which is within half a mile of the sight of these transactions. Notice would have been taken of the affair immediately, owing to the circumstances of the negro being employed for the governor, if his excellency had not been informed that the offending negroes, for such I consider mine to have been, belonged to an Englishman, upon which no more inquiry was made, and as it was discovered that the master had nothing to do with the affray, no cognizance was taken of the matter by the military power. If the owner of the wounded slave had chosen so to do, he might have put me to much expense in trouble, for he might have accused my Negroes of assaulting his, but the law of itself seldom does anything. Even in cases of murder, the prosecutor or accuser, as he is called, has it at

his option to bring on the trial or not. If he can be bribed or otherwise persuaded to give up the accusation, the matter drops to the ground. Thus the spirit of law is changed from the principle of bringing an offender to justice for the general good of society. to that of prosecuting and revenge for the crime which he is committed against an individual. Soon after my return to Jaguariba, I was one evening surprised at the arrival of a white man, who was habited in uniform of blue and red, and accompanied by a great number of loaded horses, and of men who were dressed in leather after the manner of the Certon. He delivered me a letter, which I discovered not to be for me, but for an Englishman who was

occasionally with me. However, I, of course, requested him to stay and gave directions for the accommodation of his followers. He was a commandant from the interior, distant 130 leagues, in the back settlements of the province of Parahiba at the foot of the Sejah de Cheshirea. He had put on board of jangadas at Parahiba a considerable quantity of cotton, which he had brought down from his estate, and he was now traveling to Hesifi for the purpose of receiving him, and of purchasing necessaries or rather luxuries for his family, to which he appeared to be extremely attached. We soon became intimate, and when he proceeded to Hesifei at the close of a few days, he left some of his men and horses at Jagoriba.

It is among the inhabitants of places so remote as the district from which he came, that clanship more particularly exists. He had with him ten persons, most of whom were his compadres, that is, the commandant was sponsored to one of the children of each. This relationship is a count at very sacred in Brazil, and I believe in all Roman Catholic countries. It is a bond of brotherhood which permits the poor man to speak to his superior with a kind of endearing familiarity and unites them in links of union,

of which the non-observance would be sacrilegious. The commandant made me several visits from Hesifi, and after a delay of two months, months he set off on his return homewards. He was a man of most determined spirit, whose name is respected all over the part of the country which he inhabits, and this respect was produced by his wealth and individual character, which brooks no insult. And yet there was a natural goodness in his nature which broke forth very strongly when he showed me the letters which he had received from his children, each of them, even to the youngest, having written to him. He had lately

he lost his wife, his manner of speaking of her, was most affectionate. He told me that he had some intention of taking orders as a secular priest. Soon after the commandant left me, the following occurrence took place hard by, which is characteristic of the state of the country, and similar to what frequently happens. Although this of what I am about to speak might have been avoided, if the actors in it had been a little older and a little less hot-headed. A young man who resided in this neighborhood had been lately appointed to hold a military situation in the district, of which he was proud, and owing to which he had assumed an additional degree of personal importance. He possessed a high-spirited horse, and would sometimes turn him loose, although he had no fenced

field into which he could put him. The animals soon found out the cane-land of an adjoining estate, and destroyed considerably the young plants, from hence he would open the gate of the field, which from the manner that the gates of plantations are usually made, was very easy for him to do, and would come and offer battle to some of the hard-worked horses. This was often repeated, notwithstanding that the animal had been caught each time and sent home with a request that this might not again occur. However, at last one of the beasts of the estate was lamed by the horse and rendered unfit for service, at least for some time.

The owner was much vexed, and as one of his slaves was about to carry a message to some distance, he told him to ride the officer's horse. He went, and the owner was informed of this. He waylaid the slave and took the horse from him. The planter heard the next day that the officer had expressed to many persons or wished to meet him, however no notice was taken of this. As he rode on the following morning to see his workmen, he saw the captain in the path on horseback, talking to a mulatto.

man. The planter spoke to him, saying that he wished to pass, which he could not do, unless he moved, and mentioning at the same time that he was informed of his wish to see him. The captain spurred his horse toward his adversary, attempting at the same moment to draw his sword, but this he did not do with ease from some entanglement of the belt. The other man drew his, which was enclosed in a walking-stick, and rode up to him, putting the point close to his breast, thus showing him how easily he might by this unforeseen advantage of taken his life. The mulatto man had now recovered from his astonishment, and ran in between the horses, striking them and driving them asunder. They still remained for some minutes and high words,

but the captain had not, as was afterwards well known, supposed that the other was armed, and therefore his art or for the combat had now cooled considerably. The Indians who were in my service occasionally requested leave to dance in front of my dwelling. I usually complied and was often much amused. A large fire was made that we might the better see what was going on, and that the evening might be rendered more entertaining. I frequently invited some of my neighbors. The dance commenced by two men stepping forward, and walking round and round,

taking a circuit of a few yards, one of them singing, or rather reciting, in a low voice, some ditty of his own language, and the other playing upon a shrill pipe, and as they went on at intervals they gave a hop or a skip. Soon a woman joined them, and walked after them, and then another man came forward and so forth, until a large ring was formed, and the pace was quicken. It was always expected that some liquor should be prepared for them, and each of these persons, as they felt inclined to take any of it, stepped out of the ring, and returned again as soon as they had drank.

they continued dancing as long as any rum was produced the women as well as the men relishing this their means of inspiration for as the quantities were increased some new song was introduced the tones became louder and their articulation more rapid the free people of color too would sometimes dance but the only asked permission of me and held their merry-making at the door of one of their own huts their dances were like those of the african negroes a ring was formed the guitar-player sat down in a corner and began a simple tune which was accompanied by some favorite song of which the berthin was often repeated and frequently some of the verses were extemporating and contained in decent allusions one man stepped out into the center of the ring and danced for some minutes, making use of lascivious attitudes until he singled out a woman, who then came forward and took her turn and movements not less indecent, and thus the amusement continued sometimes until daybreak. The slaves would also request to be permitted to dance. Their musical instruments are extremely rude. One of them is a sort of drum which is formed of a sheepskin, stretch over a piece of the hollow trunk of a tree, and another

is a large bow with one string, having half of a coconut shell or of a small gourd strung upon it. This is placed against the abdomen, and the string is struck with a finger or with a small bit of wood. When two holidays followed each other uninterruptedly, the slaves would continue their noise until daybreak. I've now to enter upon an affair which gave me much trouble. The lands belonging to the Negro Brotherhood of Olinda were very conveniently situated for Jaguariba and for another plantation not far distant, which was owned by an old man of color, who harbored around him a numerous clan of relations and dependence. It was arranged that we should

rent these lands equally, but to prevent competition, one of us only was to apply for them, and then they were to be divided. The owner of the plantation in question was to make the application, and I rested satisfied, but I was surprised to discover that I ran much risk of remaining without any part of them. Therefore I began to make arrangements for obtaining them for myself. Whilst the matter was yet in doubt, a person who was under the protection of the rival plantation sent a number of negroes to work upon some land which lay very near to Jaguaripe. I sent a message to the owner of these men, purporting that the land was tenanted it by a person of my acquaintance, who yearly rented it from the brotherhood, and therefore I requested him to

direct that his slave should retire. This he refused to do. This he refused to do. Consequently, I collected a number of my free workmen and rode toward the spot in question. The matter had become serious, and as he was aware that if a scuffle ensued, he might lose the service of a slave, whilst I, who is accompanied by freemen, would not sustain any loss, he gave the desired directions, and I returned home. I gained my object of renting the lands through the interest of some persons who were intimately equated with the principal officers of the Brotherhood. I attended at the council table of these black directors and heard the arguments for and against the policy of placing the whole of the property

in the hands of one person. However, the matter was decided as soon as one of them rose up, and reminded the rest that the community was in debt and that the new tenant was prepared with one year's rent in advance. All objection was silenced by this speech, and the papers were signed without any further remark. The black gentleman came down to Jaguaribi to put me in possession of the lands. I'd invited several of my friends on this occasion, and blacks and whites all sat down and ate together. The health of Our Lady of the Rosary was drank first, than that of the chief of the brotherhood, and of the new tenant. These fellows amused us much, for their politeness to each other

and to the white persons who were present, sat awkwardly upon them, but was displayed to show the importance which they imagined themselves to possess. The Jewish, or chief of the brotherhood, was a shoemaker at Olinda, and the rest were the same rank in life, more or less. Possession was given me, and everything unpleasant seemed to have subsided. When one night laid a mulatto man who resided at Jaguaribi, knocked at my door, and told me that he had just arrived from a visit to a neighboring cottage, that on the way three men had come out upon him and had commanded him to stop. but on seeing him alone they had retreated.

I'd had some intimation of what I was to expect, and immediately supposed by whom these persons must have been sent, and for whom the blow was intended. I called two Indians and my faithful slave Manuel, and accompanied by these in the mulatto man who had given me the information, I set out towards the spot. They were gone, but we pursued. However, before we reached the nearest plantation,

we heard the heavy gate of its field shut too. Therefore it was useless to proceed farther, for the persons, whoever they were, had reached a place of safety. Upon this path resided the families of the neighborhood with whom I was the most intimate, and it was well known that I sometimes returned home at a late hour. This was a turbulent district in which I had fixed my residence. Some of the owners of the plantations around were perpetually squabbling, and I had been led into the same way of proceeding. Indeed, if I had not done so, I should should have been trampled upon. The slaves of Paulistas and of Timbo were constantly at war, and the owners of the plantations of Timbo and Geni Papero were likewise with lawsuits always pending,

and their dependents never easy. Some districts are an acquired estate than others, but very few are totally without disturbance, and there are few plantations in any part of the province about the boundaries of the lands of which more than one lawsuit has not been entered into. footnote. At the distance of 20 leagues or more from Hesifi, there resided formerly the Padre Pedro upon the sugar plantation of Agua Azul or the blue water. He had obtained a grant from the crown of the surrounding lands of one square league and extent, and had fixed his dwelling upon a high hill, the summit of which was only to be reached by

a serpentine road which he had made with great labor. The sugar works were likewise upon the hill. and the field around the eminence was enclosed by a deep and broad ditch and a thick hedge on the outside the situation was remote and the adjoining country was in a very wild state the woods were extensive and almost impenetrable the disposition of the priest was as wild as the country in which he delighted to reside all deserters from the regiment of the line and all persons who had committed crimes in supporting the insulted honor of their families in quarrels and provocations exciting momentary violence of passion were received by him but he did not afford protection to the thief the fellows who were harbored by him inhabited the woods around the field and some of them had erected their huts upon the sides of the hill thus forming a line of communication so that with a whistle or a conch soon were assembled at his door forty or fifty men who were prepared to perform any service of whatever description he might name because they well knew that if they were bereft of his protection, his aid would be given in the law of support. To injure the priest or any of his satellites was followed by destruction to the offending person.

He was, however, in the habit of sending many presents to the chief persons in office that no notice might be taken of his proceedings, for although the government might not be able to destroy his feudal independence, still it might have shaken his power. The priest was once sent for by a late governor of the province. He obeyed and brought with him a considerable number of the determined followers. He dismounted and ascended the steps of the palace, leaving directions to his people, who remain below, that no person should be permitted to enter after him. The governor complained to him of his avowed practice of harboring deserters, to which the priest replied that he thought his excellency was aware of the inner utility of

speaking to him upon that subject. And having said this, he immediately left the room, mounted his horse, and proceeded homewards without molestation. Another anecdote of this strange man was communicated to me by a person who had witnessed the transaction. Two officers of justice, or bailiffs, arrived at Aguazul, and served a writ for debt upon him. The priests received them with great calmness, but shortly afterwards he ordered his people to take these two men and harness them in the mill, which was then at work, in the place of two of the horses. Eight of these are employed at the same time. He then ordered that the work should go on, and that a negro boy should sit above and make these unfortunate fellows assist

in its movement. There they remained for some minutes, until half dead with fatigue and fear, he turned them loose, and told them to relate to their employer the manner in which they had been treat it, threatening to do the same to him if he could obtain possession of his person. The priest had a considerable number of bloodhounds, which were usually unchained, or were lying about the house, thus rendering dangerous an approach to his dwelling. The animals were well trained, for a call from their master was sufficient to make them lie still, and allow the advance of a stranger. This person died only a few years ago, but as I have already elsewhere said, the time for such characters in Brazil as fast going by.

End footnote. I was often reminded by many of my new acquaintances that every plantation ought to have a chaplain. And I was told that, without a doubt, all those persons who attended to your mass would contribute towards the payment of the priest, as is customary. I spoke to a young man of this profession for the purpose, and he attended every Sunday and holiday. But when he was dismissed, at the time I was preparing to leave the place, I was left to pay him entirely myself. Everyone was poor and unable to assist when the time of payment came. This was only what I expected, but I thought it was right to follow the usual

custom of having mass said regularly on account of the slaves. In April I arrange with a tenant of the lands which lied to the eastward of Jaguariba, and are called Mangara. to allow me to turn loose upon them all my cattle during the rainy season, for the field of the plantation was not sufficiently large to support so great a number of animals during the whole year, as the work which was performed upon it required. The lands upon which I intended the cattle to remain are about one league in length, and of about half the breath. Part of them are under water in the rainy season, and in other places they were covered with

woods, but these were, for the most part, to be entered even on horseback, owing to the cattle feeding in them, and beating down the brushwood. It was astonishing to see in how short a period the cattle which had been accustomed to labor became wild and comparatively fierce. I was in the habit of going occasionally with another person, both of us being on horseback, to collect the animals for the purpose of seeing that none were missing. We had many hard chases after them, and got many blows from the branches of the trees, etc. One of the oxen was in the habit of invariably going into a bog when we appeared, and after having proceeded to a certain distance, he would turn round and look at us with

apparent unconcern, and as if you were conscious that we could not reach him. This circumstance makes me recollect another, which occurred with one of my pack-horses. The animal escaped from Jaguariba and was not for a long time. I am heard of, but at last I inquired of an old black man who said that he saw him every day. The horse fed upon some lands which produced excellent grass, but the only water in the neighborhood was to be obtained from a well or hole of which the entrance was narrow, and the water considerably below the surface. The negroes said that one day he found the horse near to the well, but unable to reach the water. He gave him some out of a half-gord which the old man carried with him,

for the purpose of throwing water over his own head, in default of a better bath. The following day the horses were there, and this continued for weeks, but although he had attempted to put his hand upon his neck, the horse never allowed him to seize his mane. He was caught at last by two men, mounted on very swift-going horses, whom I sent for the purpose. A short time after the cattle had been at Marengupe, I agreed with an Indian to go and stay there,

for the purpose of taking care of them. This man was in my debt for clothing, and for a gold chain which he had given to his wife. He came to me a few days after his removal, asking leave to go to his former place of residence, which was at some distance, and to take his family with him. I understood what this meant. He would never return,

and therefore I answered that he might go if he thought proper, but must leave some pledge for the payment of the debt, this he promised to do. Julio, who had been with me on my journey to Sierra, was again in my service. He now displeased me exceedingly, for he too led astray by this fellow wished to leave me. Julio had been accused of some petty thefts, with which I now taxed him. He denied having committed them, and that he was innocent, I verily believe. However, I did not think so then.

Consequently, this circumstance in his wish to leave me with a man whom I knew to be very unprincipled, for I had lately had information respecting him from other quarters, and above all the suspicion that he had come at an hour when few persons were about me, under the impression that being alone I should be induced to exceed to their demands, caused us to part on bad terms. They went their way towards Marenguapa, and I had some hopes that all would have continued quiet. However, in the afternoon, about half an hour before the close of the day, the manager came to tell me that Francisco Jose, the Indian, who was in my debt, had passed through the field, accompanied by his wife, Julio, and a number of other Indians. Thus he had determined to go in defiance

of any right which I might have to his services, or to demand payment of what he owed me, and in breach of promise given to me only a few hours before. Several other laborers were also indebted to me, and if this man was without opposition permitted to make his own terms, I knew not who might choose to follow his example. My horse was brought out. I beckoned to Manuel, my constant companion, in calling to some freemen who had returned from their work and were now talking together in a group.

I said, who follows me? A black carpenter, a white brickmaker, a mulatto carrier, and a laborer of the same caste, and likewise another slave, stepped forwards. Thus accompanied by six able men, including Manuel, who were all on four, foot, I set off on horseback at a round pace, knowing that in ascending the hill they would pass me. The hill being surmounted, I again pushed on, and when I arrived at the short but steep

declivity which overlooks the plantation of Inamon, I saw three men below, and heard the shrill Indian pipe. I looked back and saw that the carpenter and brickmaker had alone kept pace with me, and I know not how they were able to do so. I cried out, yonder or some of the party. at that same moment monce the brickmaker fairly leapt down the steep declivity and passed my horse we descended upon the men but were disappointed in discovering that although they were indians they were not those which we sought Now we waited for the remainder of our party, who soon came up, and we returned quietly by another path towards home. On our arrival at the gate of Jaguariba, I was informed that the party had quartered itself in a corner of the field, in and about the hut of another Indian. To this place we now directed our steps. Francisco Jose himself came out to speak to me,

and soon several others placed themselves near to him. I sat on horseback, holding a parley, my men being on the other side of me, until Antonio, the mulatto carrier, who had been waylaid a long time before, came round and leaned against the horse's neck, placing himself between me and the Indian. I afterwards found out that he had observed that Francisco José had a drawn knife, and Antonio judged that this was intended against me or my horse, for the Indian well knew that if he wounded me, it would probably enable him to escape. Several persons belonging to the plantation had now joined us, and the matter ended by the Indian allowing himself to be taken without resistance, and to be put into the stocks.

A party of mulattoes, or of Creole Negroes, would not have submitted this quietly. Late at night he paid the debt, was released, and I saw no more of him for a considerable time. I was now dismissing all those workmen who were not in debt to me, and at last only a few persons remained, whose services I required, and upon whose character I could depend. It was very seldom that I visited a Sifi, but when there was a necessity for so doing, I took advantage of moonlight nights in preference to traveling in the daytime, and was on these occasions accompanied by Manuel. The wood of Meruera, through which we usually passed, is famous for the numerous stories of ghosts that wander, and a murders that have been committed in it. One night,

when the moon was not at a sufficient height to afford a tolerably clear view of the objects around, we were passing through this wood. I saw a figure before me, in the middle of the path, which bore the appearance of a man standing still. I slackened my pace and called out, as is customary, who comes there? But before I could possibly have received an answer, Manuel brushed past, saying, let me see. However, I desired him to be quiet, as no harm might be intended. On a nearer approach, we'd discover that an old stump of a tree had caused this alarm. On another occasion, I sent this same slave from Hesifi to Jaguariba on foot, early in the morning, telling him that I intended to follow him, leaving Hesifi about eight o'clock in the evening.

I was to be accompanied by Zacharias, another slave, whose courage was somewhat doubtful. Manuel arrived at Jaguariba and immediately prepared one of the backhorses, saying to the manager that he was going to meet his master who was on the road alone, for he said, Zacharias is nobody. Footnote. Zacharias, no no any gang. End footnote. The manager could not persuade him to give up his intention, and therefore, as he knew that

the slave was much tired with his walk, he came himself. I mentioned these anecdotes for the purpose of showing the kind of man, who usually followed me wherever I went. Several months now succeeded each other without any disquietude. I had another attack of Ague during the rainy season, which was, however, much less violent than that of the preceding year. I likewise met with an accident, which had nearly proved fatal, cationed by a blow from the forefeet of a high-fed horse.

He reared and struck me, but this was done more in playfulness than with the intent to do mischief. I'd had some intention of leaving Jaguaribi, owing to the turbulence of the neighborhood, to my ill health, and to some disagreeable occurrences which had taken place between my landlord and myself. However, as this would have been very inconvenient, I resolved to stay, notwithstanding all these and other disadvantages. Preparations were made in the month of August for setting the mill to work. The cane had not attained this year its accustomed growth, in most parts of the country, and that which I possessed was particularly stinted in size, for I had not commenced planting until it was almost too late.

Everything being ready towards the end of the month, I sent for a priest to bless the works. Unless this ceremony is performed, every person who is to be employed about the mill, both freemen and slave, would be afraid to proceed to his destined labor, and if any accident happened, it would be ascribed to the wrath of heaven. for this breach of religious observance. The priest arrived in said mass, after which we breakfasted, and then proceeded to the mill. The manager and several other freemen and the negroes stood around the works.

A quantity of cane was placed ready to be thrust in between the rollers, and the four Negroes, whose part it was to feed the mill, stood at their posts. Two lighted candles were placed close to the rollers, upon the platform which sustains the cane, and a small image of our Savior upon the cross stood between them. The priest took his breviary and read several prayers, and at stated places with a small bunch of weeds prepared for the occasion, which he dipped in a jug of holy water,

he sprinkled the mill and the person's present. Some of the negro sprang forwards to receive a good quantum of the sanctified water. And then the master of the sugar boiling house led the way to the portion of the works of which he had the direction, and here there was another sprinkling. When we returned to the part of the mill in which the rollers stood, the priest took a large cane, and I did the same. Then the signal being given, the floodgate was open, and the works were soon in motion, and according to rule, the two canes which the priest and I held in our hands were the first to be ground. I'd heard much of this ceremony from persons of the country,

and I cannot avoid saying that although something of the ridiculous may by many persons be attached to it, still I could not help feeling much respect for it. The excitement of devout feelings among the slaves, even of those feelings which are produced by the Roman Catholic religion, cannot fail to be serviceable, and if men are to exist as slaves, this is doubtless the religion, which is the best adapted to persons in a state of subjection. slavery and superstition are, however, two evils which, when combined, are surely sufficient to cause the misery of any country. The carts, the oxen and their drivers had not received the priest's benediction.

They arrived some time afterwards, bring loads of canes, and the carts were ornamented with the longest that could be picked out, placed as flagged staffs, and bearing upon them handkerchiefs and ribbons. Each cart in succession stood before the door of the dwelling-house, and the priest complied with the wishes of the drivers. There was a tall, thin mulatto man of about 55 years of age of the name of Vincenchi, who lived near to Jaguaribé. He was in the habit when he saw me about my own place, of stopping,

that we might have some conversation. I liked much to hear his stories. He said that now the country was becoming quieter, that disturbances were less frequent than formerly, that there were now no valentoyans, valiant, ones, nor any contas verges, green beads. He explained to me the precise meaning of the former, and the species of beads which were intended to be described by the latter. These valentons were men of all cast, whose whole business

consisted in seeking opportunities of quarreling. They attended all festivals and fairs, and their desire was to become so famous for courage as to render the knowledge of their presence on these occasions, sufficient to keep in awe any other individuals who might wish to create disturbances, considering themselves privileged to revenge their own and their friend's injuries, but they would not allow of any quarrel in which they were not concerned. Two roads cross each other at about the distance of one leave from Jaguariba, and at the spot Vicentic told me that some of these men often stood, obliging all passers by either to fight them or to dismount, take off their hats, and leave the horses whilst they were in sight.

These men wore round their neck strings of green beads, which had either come from the coast of Africa, bearing the wonderful property of conveying and safety their possessors through all descriptions of perils, or were charmed by mandingeros, African sorcerers, who had been brought over to Brazil as slaves, and in secret continued the prohibited practice of imparting this virtue to them. The men were accompanied by dogs of extraordinary size and activity, and possessing courage equal to that of their masters. These animals had been taught to drink rum, which they would do at their owner's command, giving to all beholders an opinion of some supernatural qualities having bestowed upon them. The senti had been acquainted with some of

these men, and was firmly persuaded of the virtues of the green beads, and that the dogs invited from their masters, certain qualities, which made them superior to all the rest of their species. The expression of the man's countenance changed entirely when he commenced the relation of these stories. It was at all times harsh, but now there was imparted to it a considerable degree of unpleasant wildness. When I expressed my doubts of the efficacy of the beads against a musket-ball well-directed, his anger rose. But there was pity mingled with it, for one who had not seen those times of wonder. He seemed to be glad that they were over, and that all was now quiet, but yet he cherished a sort of regard for men whose lives had been passed in

deeds of danger. For notwithstanding the charms, such he considered them to be, the death of these men was generally violent, owing, as Vesanchi said, to some unfortunate removal of the beads from the person of him whose death to an hour was arrived. It was not, however, from this person alone that I heard accounts of the Valentoin's footnote. A man of large property, being much provoked at some outrage which had been committed by one of these Valentoins, who was a white man, had said at his own home that when he met the man he would horsewhip him. This was repeated to the outlaw, and shortly afterwards they met accidentally in one of the narrow paths in the neighborhood. The Valenton was well armed with musket, sword,

and a knife. He requested the gentleman to stop, as he had something to say to him. The outlaw asked him for a pinch of snuff, and then offered his own box, from which a pinch was in like manner taken. He then mentioned the injurious words which had been repeated to him. The unfortunate offender directly imagined what would follow, and therefore set spurs to his horse, but the road was without any bend for some distance. The Valenton knelt down upon one knee and fired with the effect which he wished for. He quietly walked on along the same road, telling the whole story of his meeting at the first village through which he passed.

This man was at last taken, tried and hanged it by Iya, through the very great exertions of the brother of the person whom he had murdered. He could not be executed at Pernambuco because he was a white man. The transaction occurred at a short distance from Jaguariba about 15 years ago. End footnote. There was an old Creole Negro residing in the neighborhood of Jaguariba, whose disposition led him to explore all the woods for miles round

in search of game. He preferred this manner of obtaining subsistence to that of daily labor with a hoe or bill-hook. He was acquainted with the situations in which the best timber was to be found and could in many instances name the exact spot upon which some particular tree stood, which was required for any given purpose.

This man often came to Jaguariba, and on these occasions I usually called him into the house to hear his stories, whilst I sat in my hammock smoking. He was fond of tales of ghosts and man gingeros. The latter are famous, among other feats, for handling poisonous snakes and can, according to his account, and that of many other persons, by peculiar noises or tunes, call these reptiles from their hole and make them assemble around him. These sorcerers profess to render inoxious the bites of snakes to persons who submit to their charms and ceremonies.

One of the modes which is adopted for this purpose is that of allowing a tame snake to crawl over the head, face, and shoulders of the person who is to be curado gicobras, cured of snakes, as they term it. The owner of the snake repeats a number of words during the operation, of which the meaning, if they contain any, is only known to the initiated. The rattlesnake is said to be, above all other species, the most susceptible of attention to the tombs of the mandingeros. The above accounts I should not have related upon the authority of one or two persons.

I've heard them repeated by several individuals, and even some men of education have spoken of the reputed efficacy of the tame snakes of the mandingeros, as if they were somewhat staggered and their disbelief of it. The reputation of the Contra Verges is firmly established in the faith of those persons of the lower ranks who have heard of them. These men certainly do play strange tricks very dexterously. I had not been so much inconvenience by snakes as I had imagined I should. I had seen several different kinds in going through the woods, and particularly in that which leads from Jaguaribi to Palistas. The path through it is not much frequented, and therefore the snakes have become bolder, crossing the road or running up a bank as I passed along.

One afternoon I had a visit, with which I could have well dispensed. I happened to look up while sitting in my hammock, and saw one of these reptiles lying quite still upon the top of the wall of the room, in the opening which is formed by the supporters of the roof that rest upon it. I seized a pike and ran it into the snake, thus riveting it to one of the beams of the roof, whilst I called to some person to assist me in Killian, but its writhing was so violent that it soon liberated itself and fell from a wall on the outside where several persons waited for it.

The people who were present did not know whether it was the Caninana or Papo Ovo, egg-eater, species, as these are much light to each other. The former is a count it venomous, and the latter is by many persons supposed to be harmless. Both are of a grey colour above and yellow underneath, The snake which we killed was about four feet in length. The kainenana is likewise sometimes called the flying snake,

as it has the power of springing to a considerable distance. It usually lies entwining the branch of a tree, and from thence darts down upon those who may molest it. The cobra d'agua, or water snake, was often to be seen in the rivulet, which runs just below the dwelling-house of Jaguariba. It is sometimes eight or ten feet in length. and of the thickness of a man's arm. The color of the back is a bright black, and the belly is of a

pale yellow. The lower ranks of people say that it is poisonous, but I have heard this contradicted. The Jarar Asa snake is from six to nine feet in length. The back is of a dusky yellow, and the belly is white. The point of the tail is black, the mouth is red, and it has two black and white streaks upon the throat. The surukukuku, snake is of nearly the same size as the Jaraasa. It is black and yellow. This reptile is attracted by fire, and on this account would be more dangerous to travelers than any other description of snake, if its attention were not so totally directed to the fire as to give time and opportunity of killing it. It has, as I was informed by

many persons of credibility, been known to spring off the ground at a person carrying a flambeau. The Surukuku and the Jara Asa are known to be poisonous. The Sipo snake is so cold from its likeness to the thin and flexible shoots of the plants which bear this name. It is said to be poisonous. Charms are often supposed to destroy the venom of snakes and to produce consequently the recovery of the person who has been bitten by one of these reptiles. Oil is sometimes used as a remedy, being given in considerable quantities, which are increased or diminished, according to the quality of the oil. Rum is likewise administered so as to produce intoxication.

I've also seen a small plant, which is known under the name of Erba Cobreira, wherever I've seen it, the plant has been carefully preserved in a pot. This would denote that it is not indigenous to the part of the country in which I was, and indeed I was told that it had been brought from Africa. I never saw its flowers, the leaves of it are small and heart-shake. The stem is of four or five inches in length and of a deep red color, which becomes greenish towards the points of the branches. These are long, crooked, and spread horizontally.

The leaves and the softer branches are bruised and are applied to the wound, and the juice which is extracted from them when mixed with rum or water, is drank by the patient. I do not vouch for its success, but its name must, I should imagine, have been acquired by its reputation. the mill was yet at work in september when the owner of the place applied to me to leave it as it was convenient for him to come down from another plantation of which he was the owner and reside at jaguaribi from its vicinity to hesifi I agreed to this, but did not wish that he should remove until I was about to leave Jaguariba. However, one morning, a young man who was related to and employed by him, came to my house, and told me that by order from his kinsmen he had, accompanied by a gang of Negroes, taken possession during the night of the cottage, which was situated upon the shelf of the hill.

I expressed my surprise at this conduct and set a good deal upon the subject. He, of course, returned for answer, that he had only acted according to the orders which he had received. The principal objection which I had to the premature removal arose from the general turbulent character of the slaves of this man, and from the frequency of quarrels between the dependence of those persons whose dwellings were so near to each other as ours had now become. Several extremely disagreeable occurrences took place, as I had feared would be the case, before I could conveniently remove, but as these proceeded more particularly from the peculiarity of our situation, I do not think that a minute account of them would be interesting.

These anecdotes could not be given in illustration of the general state of manners in the country. Suffice it to say that I made a visit to the owner of the plantation of Amparo in the island of Itamaraasa, upon whose lands I agreed to plant sugar-canes and to share with him their produce, as is a usual practice upon sugar estates. In the beginning of November 1813, I sent my manager to prepare a residence for me at the town of Conception in the island, and I removed to that place in the course of the following month.

End of Section 18. End of Volume 1. End of Travels in Brazil by Henry Costa.