The Knowledge Project with Shane Parrish - #115 Danny Meyer: Hospitality and Humanity
Episode Date: July 13, 2021Celebrated restaurateur Danny Meyer discusses the intersection between hospitality and humanity, and why we are all in the hospitality business regardless of where we work. Meyer defines hospitality a...nd how to deliver it with every interaction, how we can scale a feeling, hiring great people and when to let them go, and so much more. Meyer is the Chief Executive Officer of the Union Square Hospitality Group, which comprises some of New York's most beloved and acclaimed restaurants, including Gramercy Tavern, The Modern, and Maialino. In 2004 Meyer and USHG founded the wildly popular Shake Shack, a New York fast-casual restaurant chain that has since grown to more than 250 locations around the world. Go Premium: Members get early access, ad-free episodes, hand-edited transcripts, searchable transcripts, member-only episodes, and more. https://fs.blog/membership/ Every Sunday our newsletter shares timeless insights and ideas that you can use at work and home. Add it to your inbox:https://fs.blog/newsletter/ Follow Shane on Twitter at: https://twitter.com/ShaneAParrish Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
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If you reach out to give me a hug, and I like you, I'm going to probably hug you back.
And then we each get a hug out of the deal.
That's called hospitality.
Hospitality exists when you believe that the person on the other side of the transaction is on your side.
When you trust that they're on your side, it really starts with the people you work with.
In business, I think that the first people who need to receive hospitality are the people who work in an organization.
because if when you come to work, you feel like your colleagues are on your side, your boss is on your side,
that people genuinely want to see you succeed, that's probably going to bring out the best in you.
And so this is what we call the virtuous cycle in the enlightened hospitality.
Welcome to the Knowledge Project, a podcast about better thinking, problem solving, and decision-making.
I'm your host, Shane Parrish.
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Check out the show notes for a link.
Today I'm speaking with Danny Meyer, the founder and CEO of
of Union Square Hospitality Group.
Danny's behind some of the most acclaimed restaurants in New York City, like Union Square Cafe.
He's also the founder and chairman of Shake Shack, which has one of the best burgers around.
We talk about hospitality, what it means, how to deliver it, why we're all in the hospitality
business, how you scale a feeling, whether he's a bricklayer or a mason, hiring great people,
why restaurants that survive more than a year fail, and so much more.
I hope you enjoy this conversation as much as I did.
It's time to listen and learn.
Danny, can you briefly tell us how it is that you came to be what you call a restaurant generalist?
I came to be a restaurant generalist really as a reaction to almost backing into being a specific thing called an executive chef.
I love cooking. When I decided to get into the restaurant business, it was a time back in the
1980s where it wasn't nearly the acceptable, you know, entrepreneurial career choice that it is
today. And there was something in my mind that said, my parents are going to totally reject the
idea of me being a restaurateur because that's a sketchy job. But they might accept if I say I'm
going to be a chef because we had started to see some celebrity chefs. Paul Prudome, Wolfgang Puck,
I remember Jeremiah Tower from the West Goes. We were reading about Alice Waters with Chapinac,
and I said, there's a bunch of people who I could aspire to. And so I got myself trained a little
bit in France and Italy, and just enough to learn that there's a whole lot of people out there
who would be a whole lot better than I as a chef because I just, I don't think I have ADD,
but I definitely did not have what it took to just delve singularly into one topic.
And meanwhile, what I loved about getting to run a restaurant as a 27-year-old in New York City
was I could dabble in everything, writing, marketing, tasting food, tasting wine,
learning about all those things, teaching those things, hiring, decor.
welcoming guests all day, seating people. I just really loved all aspects of it. And I knew that if I just
did one thing, there's a whole lot of other things I would not have gotten to do. Before you opened your
first restaurant, you looked at over 100 locations. I'm wondering what the key ingredients are to
a location. How did you think of it then? Well, the location becomes the stage set for the play
you're trying to write. And there's a lot about locations that you can change, but there's a lot
you cannot change. And you really, really have to understand that. The one thing you can never change
about a location is, where is it? And what surrounds it? You can't go knocking down all the
buildings around you. You can't go building buildings where there aren't any. You know, if you want
greenery outdoors, tough luck if you're on the wrong street in New York City. So it's really important to
understand what is the location saying? How did people get there? How did they feel when they
were there? What were they doing before they came to you? And I really have always looked at
restaurants spaces the way a winemaker looks at a vineyard, which is that there is a
terroir, and the terroir is really in charge. So, for example, if you're a great winemaker
in France, you don't wait to read the wine spectator to tell you what grapes are in fashion
today. You listen to the soil, which says, guess what? We're in Burgundy, and Pinot Noir
grows really, really well here. And if you want white, Chardonnay happens to grow really well
here too. But don't try Syrac because it doesn't work. You go to Bordeaux, don't try
Pinot noir or Chardonnay because they're not going to work. And so the same exact thing has to be
happens with restaurant spaces.
And if you're really observant,
the space will tell you exactly what it wants to be.
And sometimes what the space says is,
don't plant anything here.
This place should not be a restaurant.
And that happens actually more than not.
You wouldn't believe how many times
I've looked at restaurant spaces.
And the first question I asked myself is,
would I want this even if it were for free?
And guess what, 98% of the time the answer is no.
If it's something I would want, now I've got to negotiate to get a deal because, you know,
most restaurant leases are very, very long leases, 10, 15, 20 years.
And so you're signing up.
You're making a big commitment.
And again, I'll make another analogy with winemaking.
When a winemaker commits to growing a grape in a certain vineyard, they're actually making a 10-year
commitment because most vines don't become productive with really good grapes for at least
10 years so there's a lot we have in common there's a reason that if you're if you love wine
that you know that there are certain vineyards that make good wine year after year after year
and even in the worst vintages like the weather was really bad they probably make the best
wine of that vintage it may not be their best wine but even in a bad vintage they'll make a good
wine so now how does that relate to our business well I've always felt
that our job is to start by picking the best site. You want to pick a site that has what it takes.
It's got bones. It's got a feeling that transports people. That's why people want to go out to
eat. It's not just because they don't want to cook or do the dishes. They want to be transported
to a social environment. And you ask yourself, can I make something here? Even before you taste
anything, can I make something that's going to make people feel good, just being here? Like, you know
that feeling when you walk into a restaurant and you go, this place, this is going to make me feel
good. So you pick your site and now you've got to pick the right grapes. And in our case,
the grapes we're trying to pick are the people who work for us. We want to pick people,
whether they're cooks or servers or bartenders or maturities. We want to pick people who we believe
can thrive in this soil. Because that soil is, that's our culture. And we got to feed our
culture by the way you got to take care of your soil you can't just say okay that's our culture
see you in 20 years culture changes all the time and you've got to keep it healthy but the next thing
you have to do you got to train those vines you got to train them so they grow up so they don't just
grow every which way next thing you have to do is you've got to prune the the grapes that shouldn't be
there if you don't prune some of the the grapes on the top they are going to provide so much shade
that the grapes down below aren't going to get the nutrients they need.
And furthermore, the ground is going to have to feed so many grapes.
It can't do it all.
So sometimes there's people we have to fire.
And any great culture, you have to do that if you want the rest of the vine to truly thrive.
So now you've got great soil, great grapes, well-trained.
You've pruned it, so it's really, really healthy.
And the next thing you have to do is pray for good weather, for a good climate.
And we have to do that too.
You know, if the economy is horrible, if we get a blizzard or a hurricane, whatever could
happen, we have got to make the best wine in that particular vintage.
And so it goes.
And after doing this year after year after year vintage after vintage after vintage, your
business will gain a reputation.
I have favorite wineries and I kind of feel like they don't know how to make a bad
wine because they have so much integrity about what they do that it's it's always a good wine i
really wish people would say that of our restaurants and it's really hard and it's what we what we
strive for but you've got to be intentional about it it all starts with which vineyard did you
select before we started recording we were talking about the right idea the right chef and the right
soil and i think those things come together nicely there you've said before the basis for everything that
you do culture-wise is hospitality, and you've said that we're all in the hospitality
business. I'm curious as to your definition of hospitality and how you see us all in it.
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Yeah, well, I think we all are in the hospitality business because every one of us is going to
succeed when our stakeholders are rooting for our success. And it's going to be a whole lot harder
to succeed if people are rooting against our success. So kind of human nature, if you reach out
to give me a hug and I like you, I'm going to probably hug you back.
And then we each get a hug out of the deal.
That's called hospitality.
Hospitality exists when you believe that the person on the other side of the transaction is on your side.
When you trust that they're on your side, it really starts with the people you work with.
In business, I think that the first people who need to receive hospitality are the people who work in an organization.
Because if when you come to work, you feel like your colleagues are on your side, your boss is on your side,
that people genuinely want to see you succeed,
that's probably going to bring out the best in you.
And then you're probably going to do even better things for your customers.
And if your customers believe you're on their side
and you do great things for your customers,
they're going to probably come back for more
because it feels good to do business with you.
And the same thing goes for your community.
When your community sees that you are doing good things for the community,
your community is going to root for your success.
And then come your suppliers.
Like in my business,
we want to get the best fruit, the best fish, the best vegetables, the best wines, the best
prices. Our suppliers are going to take exactly as much interest in us as they believe we're
taking in them. And when they know we're on their side, they're going to want to see us
succeed. It's just human nature. And that leaves us with our investors. And if you got a staff
that is all out to win and you've got customers that are your biggest
fans and they can't wait to come see you do it again. And your community's rooting for you
and your suppliers want you to have the best. Do you not believe that you're going to have
more leftover for your investors than the next guy? And by the way, if you do have more
leftover, also known as profit, those investors are going to probably end up doing even better
things for your employees. They're going to want to invest in more of your growth. And every
time you grow, people on your team are going to get promotions and raises. And so this is what we call
the virtuous cycle of enlightened hospitality. I think you can see where this works in organizations
of all stripes. One of my favorite professional moments was being invited to speak to the National
Governors Association, which is a bipartisan group. It's all governors. They wanted to talk about
the power of hospitality in government. I was nervous because I was going like, what the heck does a
restaurant guy have to do talking to these people. And what you learn is that governors run an
organization, just like we do in business. They have a staff who works for them. Their customers
are probably the taxpayer. They have lots and lots and lots of suppliers. They have
stakeholders, just like the rest of us, and they need, just like the rest of us, they need their
stakeholders rooting for their success. When they deliver the goods, which all starts with
How does it feel to work there?
What is the working environment like?
If you have a winning culture at work,
I promise you that the voters are going to have a better experience being on the receiving end.
How do you create that winning culture?
I'm curious.
You sound like somebody has put a lot of thought into the curation of this culture and how you grow it.
And I'm interested in how you grow it internally.
And how do you scale hospitality?
Like, how do you scale a feeling across?
thousands of employees. Well, culture is a language. It's almost like culture is the brick,
but language is the mortar. And it's a common language that actually drives a culture forward.
And you see this in any culture you know. You see it in religions, fraternities, you see it in
sports teams, you see it in families, you see it in businesses. And what the language does
is two things. It clarifies what we intend to do. And it creates a sense of belonging because we all know
what this means. I mean, I've seen this when our kids were younger and they went to summer camp.
There were languages at these camps or languages within the cabins of the camp. And there could be
language via a song. It could have been language via a chant. And I had no idea what they were doing,
but I could see that they felt this bombed because they knew what that language was.
So here's something I think I've learned along the way.
Early on in my career, I would have people say,
our culture doesn't feel the same anymore.
I would melt.
I feel like, oh, my God, we're failing.
It doesn't feel the same around here anymore.
And I finally realized, well, you're damn right.
It doesn't feel the same anymore.
And the culture isn't the same anymore because culture is not something that,
wants to be contained or maintained. Culture is like a shark. It's constantly moving or it dies.
And if you define culture as the way we do things around here and you're a growing organization,
well, of course you have to be doing things differently. You have to do things differently around
here. The one thing that must not change is your value system. That's your compass. And North always has to be
north and west has to be west and east has to be east. But your culture does have to have to
change. And so the question is, how do we do things around here? Well, I better start off by
telling people what our values are, because that's what supports our culture, which will change.
And I better tell people how we need to behave while we're doing it. That's my job. And I better
hire people who say, I want to work in a place where people behave that way. I want to work in a place
that has that kind of values.
And now I want to work in a place where I can use my heart and my mind to evolve the culture
for the purpose that that company exists.
So now you're asking a really important question, which is how do you scale culture?
And I would say, I may have a job for the rest of my life if that's what I'm working at
because it's that hard to do.
Now, in our industry, the most successful person at scaling systems was Ray Kroc.
whether or not you eat at McDonald's, you'd have to say that it's for the first time in the world
somebody could get French fries to taste exactly the same way on every continent of the world.
That's not easy to do.
Well, what we do will never, ever be anywhere close to as large as McDonald's.
But I can also bet you that Ray Kroc didn't spend a lot of time thinking about how do you scale a feeling.
He was very interested in how to you scale technical systems.
we want our french fries metaphorically whatever it is we're serving we want it to taste consistently
good but i'd say maybe even more importantly for us we want it to feel consistently amazing
we want the human experience the human exchange that's our culture how we do that has to change
because as we grow it becomes more and more about how did we advance our culture how did we
use our growth to advance our culture, as opposed to how do we worry that our growth is going
to prevent us from maintaining our culture? And the way we do that is to make sure that we're
very intentional about who the culture carriers are. What are the emotional skills that we need
to promote? Because every time someone gets a promotion, the rest of the organization is watching
very carefully and asking, so that's who I have to be if I want to get a promotion in this
company. That's how I have to behave. That's what kind of values I have to put out there. And every
time we get that wrong, we actually set ourselves back many, many fold. What are those six
emotional skills that you hire for? It's going to sound like second grade stuff because it's really
obvious, but I'll tell you one thing. I've been doing this for a long time. And every time we take
our eye off these six obvious emotional skills, our batting average goes down quite a bit. We want
to get 100% employee, just like our employees want us to be 100% boss. Now, no one, I never
get 100 on my test as a boss. I'd be really, really happy to get something in the mid-90s, believe
me. If I could have brought home an A-minus on my report card, straight A-minuses, my parents
would have sure been proud because I didn't do that. But the way we ideally get to 100,
49 of those points are going to be how well someone does the job they do.
How good of a cook are you?
If you could make the best bowl of pasta I've ever had in my life, you get 49 points.
That leaves 51 points if you want to get 100.
And the 51 points are all going to have to do with your HQ, your hospitality quotient,
which is the degree to which you are happier yourself when you make someone else feel better.
It has nothing to do with how good of a pasta cook you are.
It has everything to do with what are your motivations behind the amazing technical skills you have?
I need them both.
So here's what the six emotional skills that we always see at a very high level when someone's got a high HQ.
The first one is optimistic kindness.
Now, that's, it's kind of a twofer.
I can look in someone's eyes and tell you whether they have kind eyes or not, because they've been
using those eyes their entire life to express emotion. You cannot lie in an interview if you don't
have kind eyes. I can see that you have not been smiling for a good deal of your life. I can see
that you may worry a lot. I can see you may be angry a lot, but I'm looking for kind optimism.
And the reason optimism is important, over and above you're being a great cook. I want to know
that your actions can make the world better, can make me feel better. Skeptics tend not to thrive
in the world of hospitality. I think there's a role for people who are good at managing risk,
but that's different than approaching a situation from the outset, as that old cartoon character
would say, it'll never work. That's not going to probably work. So kind optimism, number one.
Number two, curiosity. Can't overstate how important it is. I want people on the team
who are not a finished product, who look at every day as an opportunity to learn something new.
The kind of people who, you know, in Manhattan, even though they walk to work every day,
they find a different block to walk on because they might just learn something new.
Tomorrow they look up at the cornices instead of down at the sidewalk,
or they look across the street as opposed to the same side of the street
because they just might learn something new. Intellectual curiosity.
Number three, work ethic.
I want someone who, in addition to learning how to do the job well, cares deeply about doing that job as well as it can be done.
These are people who have a very sensitive excellence reflex.
People with an excellence reflex see something that could be better and they fix it.
They don't just walk right by because it matters to them.
And the fourth emotional skill is empathy, which is a sense that you're able to put yourself in someone else's shoes and ask yourself,
hey, if that were me, I might want this.
And real empathy actually rejects the old golden rule.
The old golden rule says, do unto others as you would have done under you.
The hospitality golden rules, which is driven by empathy, says, do unto others as you believe they would want done unto them.
It's a subtle but very important difference if you try to walk in their shoes.
Fifth is self-awareness, which is an understanding that we all have different drives, and we all feel
different every single day. And I would define self-awareness as understanding my own personal
weather report for a given day. Just as the weather is slightly different every single day of our
lives, I don't think I've had two exact same weather days in my life. So too is my personal
weather report. Some mornings I wake up tired, some mornings I wake up full of energy, some mornings
I wake up nervous, some days I wake up like I can go conquer the world. It's important
if you're going to be a member of a team to know what your own personal weather report is
because you will be either raining on other people or shining on other people or creating
humidity for other people. And unless you're aware of where you are, you're going to probably
be impacting the rest of your team in ways that you did not intend to. And then sixth is integrity,
which is having the judgment to do the right thing, even when it may not be in your self-interest
and even when no one else is looking and caring about doing the right thing. So now you go,
all right, cool, I've got a pretty tough job in my business trying to find someone who's a really,
really good pasta maker. And now you're going to tell me that they made the best pasta in the world
and they only get a 49 on their test. And I'm going to say, yep, because in addition to making great
pasta, I need that person to be friendly, optimistic, curious, have a great work ethic, have empathy for
other people, be very self-aware and have integrity. And you're going to go, good luck. And I'm going to go,
that's right. And wait till you see how our cuvay of grapes taste and we make wine out of it. It's
going to blow your socks off. What I like about these is like all of these skills can be learned,
but they can't really be taught. They don't show up on paper. How do you, is there key questions that
you've learned to ask people that are revealing, especially around sort of work ethic and empathy
and curiosity? How do you figure out who has them and who doesn't? Well, let's go back to the first thing
you said, I'm not sure they can be learned and I'm not sure they can be taught. I think we can
teach people how to identify them in others. I'm sure that we can teach people how to celebrate
them when they see them happening. And I actually believe that this is a classic bell curve
population. I think that there is a tiny population that has these emotional skills in such
abundance that you could lock them in a closet for 30 years and they would come out
Whistling Dixie. Tiny population. And likewise, I think there's a tiny population of people
who don't really care about making other people feel better, ever. The vast majority live in the
middle of the bell curve and when they go to work, they genuinely want to do a good job. They
genuinely hope that their work becomes part of a winning team. The thing that can be taught is
to be very, very articulate and purposeful about why you are hiring for those skills.
I talk about this in an opening interview with someone.
We make this part of our performance reviews.
And when we see these behaviors come to light in a big way, we celebrate them.
And in a way, what that's trying to do is to look at the field of people on our team,
almost as if they're a field of sunflowers, and they will turn wherever the sunflowers.
is shining. If you constantly shine your light on those emotional skills, you will, you'll
feed the flowers and you'll get much, much more success from a team that genuinely wants to do
that. I don't know how to measure it. We would love to get to that point where we could actually
measure HQ. HQ, by the way, hospitality quotient is the term we give to this compendium
of six emotional skills, where for people who have them at a very high level,
those are people who tend to be happiest themselves when they're making other people happy
via the thing they do. It's really important for me to say this. I know lots and lots of people
who don't have a very high HQ, and I can love them a lot and not want to hire them.
There's a lot of people who are not primarily motivated by how much better they can make other people
feel. But I'll say one thing, in a day and age where we're all in, where what you know how to do
can be so easily copied by everybody, I really believe that that 51%, which is how do you make
people feel while you're doing it, can truly become the alpha that can differentiate different
organizations and teams.
I want to come back to that in just one second because it sounds like there's three things
that you can scale.
You can sort of scale your product.
You can scale your service and you can scale a feeling.
And the feeling is the most tricky, even though product is extremely difficult to have
replication all over the world across different cultures and different continents and having a similar
taste. It sounds like removing people that don't have a high HQ would be a huge component to
how do you identify the people that, oh, we made a mistake with these people and we should move on
quickly. Yeah, I'm actually not great at that. I'm trying to get better at it, but the good news is
you can tell your culture is working when the frontline people who work with that poor hire
or it may not be a poor hire, it's just somebody who's not working out. The culture tells you
pretty quickly, and they spit them out, and you can tell just how strong the culture is. Now,
as a leader, I try to be, number one, self-aware. One of the things I'm aware about is that I
definitely am loyal to people who are trying hard, trying hard to learn. You've got to be
careful that you haven't created a cult. A cult could be exclusionary to everybody else who's not the
same. That would be horrible in a business. That would absolutely be the kiss of death to have a team
of people where everybody believes the same things, behaves the same way, comes from the same
backgrounds. One of the things I'm aware about is that I will stick with people longer in belief that
they can actually thrive within the culture of enlightened hospitality. And I have seen many,
many people come into our company who came from different cultures and they had to learn a new
language and not everybody gets it right off the bat. Now, we've learned something that works very,
very well. This is born out of my own self-awareness that I have sometimes stuck with people
too long. I'm not the quickest to pull the trigger because I believe in people's goodness and I
believe in people's capacity to grow. But something that we learned from some friends in the
restaurant business, actually, was to create a four quadrant chart. On the x-axis, you would
have on the left side, can't. And as the x-axis moved over, it would say can. And then on the
y axis at the top it would say won't and at the bottom it would say will and so you now have four
different quadrants and one is can't and won't one is can't and will one is can and won't and one is can and
will what we did which was incredibly helpful in terms of you know really helping to manage the
emotion out of some of these decisions and really take take a good
look is to assign for every one of those four quadrants both an action step and a tenure
time frame so for example can and will that's that's the easiest one there but it still has an
action step which is celebrate because i've met a lot of people who will and can they've got
great attitude and lots of competence in an organization there can be a tendency to take them for
granted. You got to celebrate, shine the light because that's going to pull others over and the
time frame is forever. Okay. Now, if you have someone who can but won't, which is, come on,
for someone who's as good as you are at what you do, why are you being such a schmuck while you're
doing it? Why will you not do it according to the behaviors we expect of people in this organization?
And that's a category that often gets a free pass in a lot of organizations.
And they shouldn't be there.
I don't care how good you are at something.
But we're all really good at making excuses and saying,
oh, my God, we can't get rid of Johnny because no one is as good as Johnny is at accounting.
And the fact is, you cannot afford to keep Johnny because he is making me look like a fool
every time he behaves in a way that's contrary to my stated value.
and behaviors, he is actually making everybody else look at me like I'm full of it,
and that's on me at that point.
So for someone who can and won't, we put the fire under their rear end, and we will do
that for probably 90 days.
And that's basically saying it would be a crime for you not to figure out how to behave
the right way because you're so damn good at what you do.
And by the time you get to 90 days, it would basically be a conversation that sounded like,
This is really hard because you're so good at what you do,
but I've just run out of coaching techniques
and I don't have anything more I can give you
to help you get to that place.
So it's been great, but you're not gonna be able to work here anymore.
The can't and won't is pretty easy.
That should not be more than a 30 day timeframe.
That was probably just unsuccessful hire altogether.
The can't but will, that's, in my opinion,
somebody that I'm willing to give, you know, 120 days. I'm willing to give that person a really,
really good shot because that's a competence issue. And it could be that I've hired the right
cultural fit for the wrong job. And maybe this person who's not thriving at shortstop would be
amazing in right field. But I got to try a couple other things before I'm willing to crumple up
that piece of paper and toss it in the trash can. So that one's going to get a ton of
coaching, a ton of teaching, and a lot more time than some of the others.
I really appreciate you going into depth there.
When it comes to the Johnny's of the world, the fact that you used the timeline is really
interesting to me because when it comes to the Johnny's of the world, I find that the people
that tolerate them the most tend to be super short-term-oriented people.
Long-term-oriented people know that this goes nowhere.
It ultimately implodes.
It destroys the culture.
It falls apart.
It's not a win-win.
it's not sustainable. Short-term people are like, oh, this will help me make the quarter,
this will help me make the month. Totally agree. When it comes to scaling, I was thinking about this
because you have a variety of different restaurants that you've created. I can't, I can't really
decide if you're a bricklay or a mason or both. So hear me out here. You have these smaller
restaurants that don't really scale. You couldn't open them in every city or every corner around
the block. And then you have something like Shake Shack, which I love, by the way, which is about
scaling not only production but service and feeling across a variety of different cultures,
hundreds, if not thousands of locations.
Size tends to move people to treat employees almost like bricks, right?
They have a standard shape and size.
You have standard processes.
And a good brick layer can sort of lay a thousand bricks a day.
A mason, on the other hand, with a lot more tools and different experiences,
might lay half as much working with fieldstones because they're not shaped the same.
They're a regular. They're a bit more of a puzzle. So cutting, shaping, and pairing them is a lot of work.
Some organizations tend to build with bricks and some with field stones. It seems like you're almost doing both.
If you want repeatable and fast, you tend to use bricks. If you want unique, use a mason.
One has employees that are uniform and fit sort of low tolerances for deviations, and the other allows for more personality and character, allowing people to complement one another.
And your spectrum of offerings has me wondering, to what extent you see yourself as a bricklayer or a mason?
No, I love your distinction.
And I definitely, I'm fascinated by both.
And it reminds me of a story, which is that 15 years ago or so, I was approached by a gentleman from Tokyo whose family business called Wonder Table.
They were in the restaurant business, the real estate business, theaters.
he wanted to bring one of our restaurants to Tokyo as a license.
And we ended up doing something called Union Square Tokyo.
It's not called simply U.S.T.
Because it's never really been Union Square Cafe.
There's only one of them.
And this is a company that has multiple units of several of its own restaurants.
His name is Taka, Taka San.
I asked Takasan up front, why was he so interested in working with us?
And his answer, I think, addresses your question a little bit.
He said, we're really trying to learn about hospitality.
And it's something that you guys do in America way, way better than we do.
But on the other hand, we do service a lot better than you do.
He said, I'm going to make some generalizations here.
But when you come to Tokyo, and I've now done it at least three times, he said,
if you look at someone in a department store or an art museum in a certain way, they will
bow, whether or not you want to be bowed to, because that's how we've been taught. It's supposed
to be done. We are great at regimentation. We will do the same thing the same way every time
once you teach us how to do that. I bet if you give us one of your recipes, we can cook that
recipe at least as well as your cook's can. If you give us a piece of music, we can play that piece
of music as well as you've ever heard it before. And he said, but, you know, there's a reason that
we are very taken by jazz, which is uniquely American, because what you do better than we do
is, and that's what jazz is. You all agree on a song, but then you give everybody in that
band an opportunity for self-expression, also known as a solo, and you never know how it's going
to come out. And that solo is often a dialogue with the audience. And so every single performance
is slightly different. We don't know how to do that in Japan. And he said, if we do something
together, the thing that we want to learn from you is how to improvise so that we customize
the experience for each guest. And the thing maybe you can learn from us,
is some systems so that you can make your restaurants more consistent. That story is an
illustration of my answer to you, Shane, which is both. I want to always try to do things more
consistently well, but I always want to customize the experience for you because the two words
for you are always present in a true hospitality experience. It's the difference between
an off-the-rack suit and a custom suit just made for you. The only way that you can feel like
I'm on your side is if I customize it for you because you're different than everybody else in the
world. The temperature that you like is different than everybody else's temperature. The lighting
is different. The sound is different. The level of salt is different. Everything. The pace of the
meal is different. So every single thing we do begins with a pretty regimented off the
shelf experience. It better be a damn good one. But now we have to listen with every one of our
senses, our eyes, our ears, our hearts to try to understand, okay, it's standard that the food
is going to take this long, but I see that Shane wants it quickly. It's standard that the meat
comes with this vegetable, but I see that Shane is allergic to that, the nuts that are in that
vegetable, whatever. This is where we want to be masons and bricklayers both. And the thrill, I think,
in creating shake shack, which was, we didn't have a second shake shack for five years, by the way.
We had one shake shack for the first five years. And, you know, the next 300 plus shake shacks
have all happened in the 16 intervening years after that. Or maybe the 11 years after that. Yeah,
I think I got my math wrong.
So this notion of laying bricks and being a mason, I actually like the blend of that.
And I think that is partially why Shake Shack has succeeded is that it's a fine dining version of a fast food restaurant.
I call the category Fine Casual because I don't know too many situations where you've had a mashup of all these people who started Shake Shack came from restaurants like.
like Union Square Cafe and Gramercy Tavern and the modern,
and they learn systems necessary to scale a business,
which is very different than people who come from the quick serve industry
who have those systems down pat,
who are then trying to learn how to retrofit philosophies
and choices that a full-service restaurant makes
in terms of site location, design, hiring, culinary technique, sourcing,
community relations, all those kinds of things.
In fairness, that reference between the two.
A friend of mine gave me that framework to think about things,
and I thought it was an interesting lens to put on top of this conversation.
And it almost sounds like you want systems in the back end,
and then judgment to apply the Mason's sort of quality coming out the front end.
So you have this off-the-shelf offering, which is setting that, you know,
that's the table stakes or sort of like setting the bar.
And then you apply judgment to that.
so dependent on finding the right people, which is why I love your sort of way of hiring.
I want to come back to something you said there, which is why did it take so long to open
the second shake shack? In this world of scale, rapid, go fast, walk me through that.
I've shared this story before, but it's true that having watched my own father,
who was my entrepreneurial role model, experienced two different bankruptcies. One when I was
10 or 11 years old and then another one when I was in my 20s, I just always probably incorrectly,
but for whatever reason, I always associated those bankruptcies with expansion. It seemed to me that
they happened when he was growing his business, sometime to other cities, to other countries even.
And I just never, ever, ever wanted that to happen. I was okay with taking the risk of
an entrepreneur in a way that I almost couldn't contain. I think I've spoken with enough
entrepreneurs to really believe this analogy that it's almost like having a mosquito bite
and someone telling you you're not supposed to scratch it. You just don't have a choice.
You can try everything possible, but at a certain point, you're going to give in and go crazy
on it. And that's how I was with being an entrepreneur. But I wanted to take a risk that was safe
at the same time. And I believe that if I ever expanded in any way, never mind doing a second
version of something, that it would be the end. And that's why it took me 10 years to open my first
second restaurant, which was Gramercy Tavern. And that's definitely why it took five years to open
a second shake shack. It just was never part of shake shack wasn't born for the purpose of being
a multi-unit operation, never mind a public company, never mind a global company. But the way I've been
able to deal with that. The first thing is that my dad died at a very young age. He was 59. And when he
died, I was I was 32. So from the time I was 32 on, I did probably what anyone would have done at that
point. And I got myself some therapy, some analysis. And I realized something pretty obvious.
I'm not my dad. Point number two, not every business that has grown or skis.
scaled, has gone bankrupt. So those are two pretty important things that come to terms with.
And then I started saying, all right, so it's not predestined that I'm going to end up like my dad.
It's not predestined that scaling equals bankruptcy and that there's some pretty good principles
to put into play to help with that. One is, since it wasn't just growing, what was it that led to
those two really, really tough failures. One biggest one was he didn't surround himself with enough
talent to compensate for his weaknesses and to support his strengths. He had both. And so I've made
a absolute point of understanding both my strengths and my weaknesses and hiring in a compensatory way
and hopefully making, you know, making a great work environment for really talented people
who know how to do things, I only wish I could do, but I love learning. I love learning what they know
how to do. And I think together we help make each other better. So that's been a big deal for me always.
And I've learned to trust. I've learned to trust both of those things. I'm not my dad. I got some
really good things from him. So last thing I want to ever do is sell my late dad down the river.
But he never met a good idea that he didn't think he could add something to you.
And I definitely have that.
He never met a good plate of food or a good glass of wine that didn't make him want to take a taste.
He never met a good trip that he didn't want to take somewhere to go learn about other cultures and about other people.
He was a remarkably good writer and something I strive to do, and I'm not anywhere close to as good as he was.
And finally, he was an amazing linguist.
He was actually recruited by the Army's special language program in Monterey out of college
and recruited to be a counterintelligence officer station on the border of France and Germany
because of his language, his foreign language skills.
And I think foreign languages are so important.
It's almost to a person what learning to be a scuba diver is for a swimmer.
You see a whole new world when you learn someone else's language.
that you otherwise didn't even know existed.
So I just want to be really clear that with all the cautionary lessons that I think I took from my dad,
I also took a lot of amazing gifts.
One of the questions I have about restaurants is that if you make it past the first year,
which I think is the hardest sort of milestone,
there's a lot that survive to six, seven, eight years, and then they fail.
Why do restaurants that survive tend to fail?
I think restaurant economics have always been challenging, but never more so than probably the last, I don't know, 10 years or so, especially in cities where there are many, many restaurants, there's been downward pressure on your pricing ability.
But meanwhile, lots and lots of upward pressure on your prime cost, which are talent, real estate, and your food and beverage product.
And those prices just keep going up every single year, but the ability to charge appropriately hasn't.
And I think the biggest area that our industry has failed at is to educate the public that we are a people business and we have been underpaying people for many, many years.
We've somehow in the fine dining world have taught people to pay up for better quality ingredients.
You know, you take Shakeshack even.
You cannot compare the prices of Shake Shack to any fast food without smiling because we've educated the public that all natural beef, i.e. beef raised without growth hormones or antibiotics with proper animal husbandry costs a lot more than your run-of-the-mill fast food burger.
And people understand that and they're willing to pay for it.
But we haven't succeeded at doing that with people.
And as cities, states, and now the entire country move to a higher minimum wage, and then perhaps
one day, one wage for everybody as opposed to a second tier for tipped employees, which I
believe is not going to last forever, can't, you're going to start to see restaurant prices
go up as they should because we cannot be an industry that is really good at giving people their
first job and really bad at promoting people to a job that pays a fair living wage. We just cannot
be that industry. We do too much good for so many communities. We have to make it so that to be
a sustainable industry, we're doing good things for the whole economy. And I think that what COVID
exposed in our industry was that we were like that elderly patient with pre-existing conditions
that probably would have died pretty soon anyway, and all it took was COVID to just to knock us out.
And you'll see that when this industry does come back, it's going to come back different.
And for the keeps, I really believe that.
I think that it's going to be a more diverse community of workers.
I think workers will be paid better.
And I think that the public is going to understand that the true cost of dining out
includes doing the right thing for people, not just for animals and not just for plants.
I like that a lot.
I like the idea, like if you're working in the community, you should also be able to live
in the community in which you work.
And so often the case in large cities anyway is that police, teachers, people who work in restaurants,
They're all getting priced out of the communities that they serve.
And I think that that doesn't create a long-term win-win for anybody.
You're so right.
You call mistakes the greatest renewable resource on Earth.
I'm curious as to how we better learn from our mistakes.
And I think you have sort of the five A's of making mistakes, if I remember correctly.
Yeah, well, the reason I call it the greatest renewable resource on Earth is that as a human being,
we're obviously programmed to just make mistakes all.
day long. I made about five mistakes just trying to get on this podcast with you. And the question
is, all right, you know, since we make so many mistakes, what are we going to do with them? And
assuming they're honest mistakes that don't lack integrity, how do you end up in a better spot
for having made a mistake and addressed it really well than if you had never made the mistake in the
first place? That's what I want to try to figure out. In other words, if human mistakes are like
waves in the ocean. There's always another one. You just don't know how big it's going to be
or what the timing is going to be. How do you use that for good? How do you use that
that recurring resource for good? And so we came up with what we call the five A's of mistake
making as a way to teach our team members. The first thing is, don't be ashamed you made a mistake.
I'm talking about honest mistakes now. If you made a mistake that lacked integrity, you should not
have a job with us. So I'm leaving those aside, but believe me, there's plenty of honest waves
in the ocean. Plenty. And they just, they don't stop. So the five A's of mistake making are be aware.
That's the first one. If you're not aware, you're nowhere. I've made many, many mistakes that I
didn't even know I made. And the person on whom I made the mistake might have been carrying around a
bad feeling for years. I mean, I've walked by tables in our dining room. And inadvertently,
knocked into someone's menu that then knocked into their champagne glass that then spilled on their lap
and didn't even know I had done it. I was unaware I had done it until a waiter sheepishly came up to me
to say, uh, Danny, you just, you just spilled on table 44. So first thing, be aware. Number two,
acknowledge it. Number three, apologize for it. You wouldn't believe how many people
when they make a mistake, they try to hide, they try to run, they deny, they blame, they
blame someone else. No, that's just not how you do it. So fourth, act on it. In other words,
fix it. And number five, apply additional generosity. So ask yourself, if someone had just
spilled champagne on me, what would I want them to do for me besides apologize and acknowledge
it? Okay. Now, the obvious thing is pay for my dry cleaning, get me some clubs
soda, offer me a new glass of champagne. I want you to do something additional on top of that.
I want you to believe that this mistake is something that the person you did it to is going
to tell the whole world. Hey, how was dinner at Union Square Cafe? It was good, but you know what
happened? Danny Myers spilled champagne all over me. They're going to tell everybody. So now I want
the outcome of these five A's to lead to what I call writing a great next chapter. Because when
they tell the whole world that story about what Danny Meyer did to them, I want them to say,
but do you know how he handled it? And if you do that, you have now put that mistake,
you've turned that mistake into additional energy that is going to actually propel your business
because of how well you took a negative and turned into a positive. I tell my kids that all the
time. It's not the mistake that sort of does you in. It's how you handle it at the end. And I like
how you specifically ruled out integrity. And you said mistakes of integrity are a different beast.
I have a friend who has a saying, which is forgive everything but malicious intent. And I feel like
that's a really good way to live life. Danny, I want to thank you so much for your time today.
This conversation has been amazing. Well, I've enjoyed being with you, Shane. And thanks for
sharing me with your listeners. Can we get a Shake Shack in Ottawa, by the way?
Hey, one more thing before we say goodbye.
The Knowledge Project is produced by the team at Furnham Street.
I want to make this the best podcast you listen to, and I'd love to get your feedback.
If you have comments, ideas for future shows, or topics, or just feedback in general,
you can email me at shanefs.blog, or follow me on Twitter at Shane A. Parrish.
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Until the next episode.
Danny, can you briefly tell us?
how it is that you came to be what you call a restaurant generalist?
If you reach out to give me a hug and I like you, I'm going to probably hug you back.
And then we each get a hug out of.